The Traveler's Table 2021

Page 38

Swiss wines you need to try You’ll need to visit Switzerland if you want to sample its wines since the vast majority of them are not exported. Here’s a wish list of wines recommended by Memories’ sommelier Amanda WassmerBulgin. The single carrot, cooked whole, is sitting on a bed of Alpine barley, as if it hasn’t quite left its mountain garden. But if I hadn’t known any better, I would have thought I was eating sweet potato. This carrot is melodious and it melts in my mouth. We’re far from the final course, and yet this carrot could have been the nine-course meal’s sweet finale. His desire is for all his diners to “taste again, as if they’ve never tasted before.” My meal could stop now and he would have already succeeded. But luckily, it didn’t end there. I would have missed the miniature Alpine herb bouquet tied with a single chive and the sourdough bread, made with only flour, water and salt. I would have also missed the “white mountain sheep

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ENSEMBLE TR AVELER ’S TABLE 2021

from the Bernese Oberland” placed on a bed of herbs from the meadow of its origin. And then I would not have been served drinks by Amanda Wassmer-Bulgin, Switzerland’s most famous female sommelier and also Wassmer’s wife. And finally, I’m glad I didn’t miss the encore – pickled Alpine flowers set atop a meringue resembling the cloud nine I feel I’m floating on after this meal. Such an experience, however minimal the intention, is hard to forget. To that notion, Wassmer simply smiles. After all, his restaurant is called Memories for a reason.

Weingut Donatsch, Pinot Blanc, Malans Gentle on the aromatics, but a refreshing white to suit any occasion. Weingut Donatsch, Pinot Noir Unique, Malans You’ll think you’re in Burgundy, thanks to the pronounced bright red notes of wild strawberries and violets. Weingut Obrecht, Completer, Jenins Offering a vibrant, mouth-watering acidity and rich, broad texture, it’s white that could easily replace a red on a menu. Demeter Biodynamic, Weingut Hansruedi Adank, Brut, Fläsch Simply the best sparkling wine in Switzerland. Peter Wegelin, Chardonnay, Malans An exceptional local Chardonnay with lean and taut structure with a Chablisesque mineral streak. Think juicy candied lemons with a salty finish.


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