Gratitude in the Galápagos

by LIZ FLEMING

Contemplating class and distinction in Las Islas Galápagos

Leon Dormido (Kicker Rock)

There were plenty of reasons to stay put. Though technically an expedition vessel, my 100-passenger ship offered every luxury imaginable. In addition to an elegant suite with "don't leave me" bed linens, the food was positively gourmet and my butler (my butler!) seemed to have a sixth sense that anticipated my every need.

Land iguanas resting on a rock,

Española Island ©Silversea

At the end of each day, when I returned to my suite, a silver tray of hors d’oeuvres and icy beverages awaited. While immersed in a briefing over mouth-watering Ecuadorian cuisine, my gear was quietly laundered and returned to my closet as if by magic. It was bliss. But arise from bed each morning I did – Charles Darwin didn't sweat over the verbiage in On the Origin of Species for me to loll about – and found myself richer for the effort.

Kayaking in Bahía Gardner, Española Island ©Silversea

The Galápagos Islands, including the Marine Reserve, are a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site. Galapagos National Park has been designated a Biosphere Reserve. As a result, visits are limited and there are rules in place. Though adherence to the six-foot gap between viewers and wildlife can be challenging at times.

One day, as I marveled at centenarian tortoises lumbering over the volcanic landscape, an albatross strolled casually across my feet and my heart skipped a beat, partly because of the rule, but mostly because it boggled my mind.

Cactus on a bed of red Sesuvium (ice plant)

On one rocky island, a flock of male frigates puffed out their red chests as a single, unimpressed female looked on. On another jagged shoreline, a shimmering "rock" suddenly opened its eyes and revealed itself to be an enormous marine lizard. Elsewhere, blue-footed, redfooted, and Nazca boobies preened and called to me from the trees.

The Marina on Silver Origin ©Silversea

While snorkeling with my group in the clear Pacific Ocean water, I spotted rainbow wrasse, triggerfish, and surgeon fish with bright yellow tails. Perhaps the most enchantment came from the sea lions who decided to join our swim party. As we pulled ourselves out of the water and onto the sand, they did the same, lying beside us like a gang of teenagers soaking up the sun's rays.

Bartilome Island

Back on my ship, soundly stunned by the rugged majesty and resilience of nature – not to mention the discreet luxuries of my aircooled suite – I fell into bed each night feeling intensely grateful.

Reach out to your travel advisor for expedition options.