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Clockwise from left: crafting perfumes from essential oils (photo: iStockphoto); Eau Delice from the Dior Addict collection; Alien by Thierry Mugler, La Vie Est Belle by Lancôme.
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top note of jasmine and Rose de Mai absolute at its heart. The Eau de Parfum, by contrast, features more oriental notes such as silk blossom and mandarin wood, deepening into Queen of the Night and vanilla. Niche companies are taking a very different approach. Smaller companies, which can take more risks, are exercising their creativity. They are being more adventurous with the types of ingredients they use, incorporating scents such as leather and tobacco to create unusual aromas. Annick Goutal, for instance, works exclusively with natural scents, creating fragrances that cross gender divisions. Nuit Étoilée is one such example, which blends citrus and peppermint notes with Siberian pine and fir balsam.
Serge Lutens is one of today’s master perfumers and is revered for his ability to push fragrance boundaries. His new perfume, La Fille de Berlin, is clearly rose, but it’s a very cold rose. This very modern fragrance was inspired by Berlin in the 1920s. Although the city was famous for its hedonism and its expressionism, was also the time the Nazis were rising as a force – a dual mood is expressed in the perfume. Another new Lutens fragrance, Une Voix Noir, is inspired by singer Billie Holiday. It’s heavy with gardenia – Holiday’s signature flower – but has an unusual musky, dirty note. It is classic Lutens – delivering the unexpected.
Published on Jun 20, 2013
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