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Emma Salter/ Q79750117/CJO630 Electronic Submission Coversheet TO BE COMPLETED BY STUDENT This is my FINAL submission for this assignment

By electronically submitting this work, I certify that: • This assignment is my own work • It has not previously been submitted for assessment • Where material from other sources has been used it has been acknowledged properly • This work meets the requirement of the University’s ethics policy Student Name: EMMA SALTER Student Number : Q79750117 Faculty: FMAS Level of study: 6 Course title: Writing fashion and culture Unit title: Buying, forecasting and trend analysis Assignment title: Buying project Assignment tutor: Sarah-Leigh Wade Word count: / Learner request for feedback:



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Grade mark: Submitted on time (Y/N): Tutor signature: Date: 2

Buying, Forecasting and Trend Analysis

Emma Salter

“Trend Analysis is the practice of collecting information and attempting to spot a pattern, or trend, in the information� By Emma Salter


Contents •






ERA – 1993 – PG 9



FABRICS – PG 14-16








Brief: Macro Trend Spring Summer 2013 This is a portfolio featuring moodboards and written work that documents a unique trend for s/s13. graphics


colours trends

This is a portfolio to document a trend throughout stages from research, development, concept and final commercial fashion range.


Initial research - Historical Historical research shows me that 20 years ago, fashion history saw the revival of 1960’s shapes and cuts. The 1990’s was the genesis of two shifts in western fashion.

“the beginning of rebellion Fashion 

the hippie floral dresses

turtle neck shirts,

lace blouses,

gypsy tops,

long floral skirts,

olive green dresses,

yellow shortails,

overalls as playsuits

influenced by iconic supermodels Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell which also transcended to the 2000s

and caused a rejection towards fashion and saw the adoption of tattoos, body piercings other than ears. This led towards the popularization of the casual chic look, including Tshirts, jeans, hoodies, and trainers. The mid 1990’s saw the revival of 1960’s amongst America, Britain and Australia. In the late 1990’s women wore pastel colours like pink or baby blue, fleeces, tank tops revealing the midriff and union jack motifs inspired by the Cool Britannia movement. In Britain and the US fashion was popularized by contemporary R&B and jungle music resulting in iconic accessories such as hoop earrings, jelly shoes, bandanas and animal print. Hair • Fringes • Straight and smooth, Jennifer Aniston was a hair icon of the early 90’s. • Pixie haircuts

Accessories • conch shell necklaces, • straw hats, • chunky wedge heeled platforms, • knee high boots, • dolly shoes 6

Initial research - Contemporary Contemporary research into global events

Nearly 1.2 million new




Nasa solar flare



2013 Rugby

happening in the

700,000+ jobs

league cup

year 2013 – ‘From 2013 the UK will become the first G20 government to

Fashion design

meet the UN target of spending 0.7% of natural income on


international development’ –

World affairs

This research factor’s this diagram, politics and new job’s see more disposable income, profiting a percentage spent in fashion. Sports event’s mean women are being left to shop while the men are watching rugby. Nasa flare indicates ‘2012 end of the world’ scenario and offers a great concept for colour scheme with fire reds, bright oranges, sun yellows mixed with the colour galaxy/space theme.


Spring/ Summer 2013

Global events


Street style Consumer behavior


Concept – Aerodynamics, futurism and solar. The historical and contemporary research that I have conducted has given me starting points for a trend concept, I have decided to use the NASA solar flare as my starting point.

“Solar flares are powerful bursts of radiation. Harmful radiation from a flare cannot pass through Earth's atmosphere to affect humans on the ground, however -- when intense enough -they can disturb the atmosphere in the layer where GPS and communications signals travel. This disrupts the radio signals for as long as the flare is ongoing, anywhere from minutes to hours”

Using these bright forms of colours I can create a splash of schemes in my trend that relate to spring summer colour palettes using 60’s/90/s inspired styles

I would like to use the concept of shapes from this solar outburst into my trend, aerodynamic streamline cuts and garment shapes form a link to this outbursts of light and flares.

Increased numbers of flares are quite common at the moment, since the sun's normal 11-year activity cycle is ramping up toward solar maximum, which is expected in 2013. The galaxy as a print forms a great colour palette for my trend.


NASA SOLAR FLARE MOODBOARD Initial inspiration of concept developed in

The Sun

to trend & aesthetics such as colours and textures emerge. Shapes form aerodynamics and link to fashion. Red aura inspired – blood, blood cells

Painting by Pat Rawlings for Nasa




Focusing on the space element of the Nasa solar space and inspiration taken from galaxy/cosmic which is an emerging trend

already in 2012.

Beauty Make-up

Rocket to galaxy inspiration

Music – Karen O (Yeah Yeah Yeahs) to street style – 10


Furistic space themed on the catwalk

Virgen art and supermodel icons of the 90s

60’s to 90’s

Rock, grunge, dark monochrome


Development Ideas graphics

Topshop s/s13

Street style – susie bubble

Balmain at paris fashion week - designer

Combining historical and contemporary research, I can see a trend forming combining geometric prints with aerodynamic shapes in a solar pallete, I would like to use the colour scheme of the concept with Spring Summer impulsive colours such as Neon Orange, Sunny Yellow, Shimmering Pink, Tan, Peach, Teal and Nude Salmon with clean cut black and whites in a geometric graphic combination print.

Here are three images reflecting graphics, street style, catwalk and high street for s/s13 using my idea of 60s/90s solar geometrics.



Style Icon haircut 60’s hair and makeup with futuristic features

60’s workwear

60’s style contemporary

Block colours and short cut styles

Street style and bloggers adaptations These ideas are starting to form colour and print ideas for my trend collection, florals and geometrics with bright colours and neutral contrasts. 13

Print Idea’s I have noticed a pattern in colour schemes surrounding the era and theme of my trend. The 90’s saw a lot of neutral, raw hue’s with magnetic warmth; peaches, salmon, orange, yellow, tan. The theme; solar and space; surrounds electric cool colours like black, navy, dark grey, green. Mixing these two palettes together can form combinations like tessleated prints like the artwork below. Amalgamating light and dark can frame a shape and form a basic print to incorperate throughout my capsule collection.


Colour Palette Spring accents

High summer accents

Pre autumn winter palette; black, navy, dark grey, green, deep red

This is the core colour palette I will be using to illustrate my macro trend. Using pantone I have selected hues that will be reflected in my accent colour garments and the core colours that fall into autumn winter.The image of pantone colours above is the core colour palette for my trend.


Fabric idea’s and swatches “In summers, the best texture is one that soaks sweat and gives you a cool feeling. Cotton is no doubt the best deal. Extremely light and water resistant, nylon is another good alternative. Linen can also be opted for as it is sheer light, but develops wrinkles very soon. Its not very suitable if you are traveling. If you are looking out for some real cheap pocket friendly stuff, then you can try out polyester. Well when the talk is about easy washing, micro fibers are just apt.”

Mary Katrantzou style swatches of fabric and prints, these prints would be perfect for my trend as they incorperate summer and futuristic graphics, linking back to my aerodynamic trend these shapes add character to my trend for spring summer. Classic denim fabric for jeans and shorts, I want to use a light denim instead of any other shade as this has a more summer vibe to it.


Fabric Here are some fabric ideas for the later months in my trend, as summer is ending, layering has become a nessecity and requires bulkier fabrics and prints. I have decided on a light denim, as summer is still not over denim is a staple and everyday wear. Can also be used varied – shorts, ž lengths and regular length jeans. Keeping with the colour palette and 1960’s floral, sunflower prints was a key print for me. The use of blue and peach will be used in the style of preppy plaid and the velvet


will be an early trend for autumn winter dresses.


Ditzy floral

Preppy plaid 17

Textures The common textures that have a pattern in my theme are metallics, the shine of sequins

connotes light and warmth of solar, and the small geometrical shapes form a versatility to styling. Layering and androgynous styles reflect futuristic use of materials and 21st century styles. I love the use of gold and silver which suits my theme and era perfectly and is something I will consider to develop for my final trend piece. The pictures I have collected show a avant-garde streamline silhoettes in the garments and hair, particularly the far right image on the middle row. The image on the middle bottom row also has a space theme effect, the sequin blazer and 80’s inspired shoulder pads give off a astronaught-esque look. 18

Embellishments Here are some embellishment ideas for my trend. I have chosen metalic studs and spikes to represent the futuristic/90s grunge aspect and glitter and gold to show solar galaxy concept, the gold chains are very

90’s too. I like the idea of this 60’s style cut out cape and would like to include cut out features in my collection. 19

Geometric prints, angular shapes, streamline styles

Interior design, art and substance influence Futurism

Earth textures, deep layering

Feminine nature florals – late 60’s/70’s idea

Artistic, graphic print, 3-D


Topshop - commercial/high street Here are some examples from high street fashion retailer Topshop’s

current range, there is influence of the 1990’s with the dark grungey tones in the models makeup and styling, the use of garment shapes and cuts show a basis of next years spring summer collection, 60’s style mini skirts, masculine blazers, knee high boots and florals. Which are all elements of my research so far into retail 20 years ago.


Asos – online fashion retailer Here is online fashion retailer Asos’ spring/summer 2013 collection, I feel that it embarks all of the points I have researched into my trend using the 1960’s revival of gypsy tops, long skirts, trouser suits and chunky wedge. Also the use of model styles that ‘hippy’ look. The colour scheme is on point too, tan and yellow, green and white and also length and fit has a lot to do with my research.


Fendi - designer Here is italian designers Edoardo and Adele Fendi’s catwalk collection for spring/summer 2013. There is a futuristic element within the first picture, the peplum shape has been popular this year and

creates an overskirt and research has shown me that layering is a particular style for space/earth/solar theme. Also the use of shiny glittery fabric adds a space element. The accessories in this collection use my idea of geometrics and the image bottom right has an aerodynamic streamline ensemble. 23

Street Style

Here is a selection of street style images that have been influenced by my theme,

aerodynamic cut shapes like the style bubble image on the far right, and futuristic style garments like the black and white image above. 24

Trend Garment Ideas •

Jersey basics (t-shirt, vest, leggings)

Polo crops, cut out tops, bicycle/3/4 length leggings, oversized vests. •

Fashion top (day and evening options)

Geometric prints, galaxy prints, embellishments studs etc •

Layering options (knits, waistcoats etc)

Blazer ¾ length sleeves, light oversized thin knit grunge/holed/mesh •

Dress (day and evening options)

Short mini skirt dress, bodycon, polo neck dress, midi length for evening •


Denim shorts, print shorts, oversized shorts •


Cropped, high waisted, tapered •


High waisted levis, print jeans •


Trench, parka, light and nude colour •


Frilly socks and knee high socks •

Complementary accessories

Complementary footwear


Garment variation visuals – Jersey Basics Jersey basics – big 90’s influence, loose baggy crop tops to keep cool and look cool in the high summer, team with high waisted jeans and thin knit jumper in the spring.

Elbow length sleeves


These kinds of tops are found mostly on the high street and any retailler will produce them as they are made from cheap jersey material and in constant need. Can add to any high waisted trouser to appear stylish.

I would like to keep these to the core colour palette and have the fashion tops showcasing the futuristic prints and solar reference as these basics are a staple garment. 26

Garment variation visuals –leggings, trousers, shorts and jeans

Modern take on bicycle shorts, knee length. Great for under mini skirts in the summer.

Printed graphic cycle shorts, with galaxy print! Nude ¾ length leggings and high waisted gingham shorts with 60’s influence Mary Katrantzou style graphic print tapered trousers with 90’s high waist influence

Vintage levis are a essential staple, shorts worn in the day in summer and jeans in the day in spring 27

Garment variation visuals – fashion top Futuristic prints add fun character to a dull shaped top

Geometric print shift tops and blouses, stud embellishments for the evening and casual galaxy tee and geometric plan top for day

The geometrics and galaxy prints make these fashion tops more luxurious to the basics and can be adapted to the catwalk better than the high street because of the print quality and time gone into producing it.


Garment variation visuals - layers Geometric light print ž length sleeve blazer representative of the 60’s androgynous look. Plaid oversized jumper, thin holed knit mesh jumper just to thrown on in the cold evenings in spring.

Grunge and 60s combined, in summer wear with futuristic straight top sunglasses for the aerodynamic trend


Garment variation visuals –Dresses (night and day) •

Dress (day and evening options)

60s and 90s inspired cut out dresses, featuring streamlined bodycon enhancing shapes with aerodynamic feel Floral midi dress, plain asymetric dress and cut out with flippy skirt are garments for daytime Bra and skirt dress, bodycon polo neck dress and full embellished skirt dress for evening wear


Garment visuals - bottoms Bottoms: Shorts, Trousers, Jeans Denim shorts, print shorts, oversized trousers, cropped length, high waisted shorts, tapered, levis high waisted jeans, printed jeans. Summer styles, early spring jeans and trousers then shorts for high summer temperatures. I think the high waisted element really comes across with a 90’s vibe, cropped trousers were very 90’s supermodel style and I would love to incorperate this stlye into my trend. The shapes of the shorts are figure hugging and shapely, giving off a aerodynamic style so that they form a shape streamlined to look good.

Frilly socks are on trend and add a feminine girly look to any outfit, these will look great with the cropped trousers 31

Garment visuals - Coats Coats for spring: Trench coat will be best suited to spring as it is lightweight but still keeps in warmth, the nights will be chillier than the summer nights so its length is key to the temperatures. The colour scheme will be light neutrals and beiges as not to flamboyant the colour scheme of the tops and printed shorts. Coats for summer: Parka coats will be best suited to summer because they are shorter in length compared to the trench coat designers but are still lightweight and stylish, light and nude colours will be the styles just like the trench coat as not to take away from the garments visuals. I don’t want to feature too many styles of coats in my trend collection because the colours and garments are set for a hot spring summer and coats will bulk up the lightweight style of the trend im forming.

Prada and topshop unique catwalk images here have used long socks with their short dresses, I would like to use this style with my coats and have knee length socks as an accessory with those 32

Garment visuals - Swimwear and accessories The swimwear focus will be on the futuristic shapes and aerodynamic streamlines. The colour scheme will be like solar flares of colour and prints, I would like an all black collection of swimwear with splashes of colour like the image on the left. The sunglasses will have a strong decade influence, like these big round john lennon style glasses from the 60s and the ultraviolet style from the 90s.

The jewellery teamed with the swimwear will be chunky and shapely, the clean cut triangle shapes will go well with the streamline garmetns and the playful coloured bead necklace is very 90s inspired.


Make up and hair moodboard Makeup and hair

hairstyles Makeup

Here is a moodboard of hair and makeup I would like to include in my trend collection, the colour schemes fit in with the garment palettes and the shapes are very aerodynamic. The hairstyles I have tried to reflect a 60’s and 90’s to today relevance but keep in with a streamlined futuristic style.


Ideas for capsule collection

I can see a strong 60’s/90’s influence in these designs. At the time I wasn’t sure on prints so these will be added later. Here are some of my own sketches that I have drawn inspired by the images I collected in this portfolio. They are basic drawings but I have got a trend waisted skirts and shorts and cropped tee’s, which will be the main feature as I can adapt this to high street retaillers such as topshop who have this basic range.

have of high in my trend in their


Trend adapted to brand I think that my trend is already quite commercial as I have taken a lot of influence from retailler collaboraters such as Mary Katrantzou who has worked with topshop, and the basic jersey fabrics and styles relate to high street fabric budgets so this trend would fit in with high street brands. This look is becoming more evident on the catwalk as designers take influence from street style, the high street wearers, and forming their own collections so this trend would also be adaptable on the catwalk. I think the prints and graphics appeal more to the catwalk as they will cost a lot more to be printed making the garment more costly but the more basic styles of garments would work with the high street, a mix of the both makes this trend adaptable to the high street. The high street brand I think this trend works more with is topshop because it is the popular highstreet shop that provides uniform for the entire female population of the uk aged between 17-21 and the vast majority of these females congregate on university campuses, making this a trend for young people created by a young person myself.

Futuristic sunglasses

Prints and high waists

Block colour, 90s hairstyle

Mary matrantzou florals and streamline cut garments

Grunge print with 90s influence


Trend adapted for Autumn/Winter 13/14

Louis Vuitton recently unveiled its unique Objets Nomades Collection to Europe which is currently on display at the brand’s New Bond Street Maison in London. The products that have crafted the collection are “a series of objects connected to travel”. The brief behind these designs was to create “limited edition foldable and modular furniture, or other portable accessories which facilitate the life of modern travellers.” - Louis Vuitton This latest addition to the Louis Vuitton portfolio encompasses the trends that MPDClick have forecasted for the coming S/S 13 and A/W 13/14 seasons. The trend Modern Artisan, for the S/S 13 season focuses strongly on how luxury brands market true craftsmanship, as well as the celebration of techniques steeped in quality and heritage that have been passed down through generations. With the increase of outdoor pursuits and adventure, collections like this will become a vital theme for future trends.

A/W 13/14 will see an adapted muted tone of floral and graphic prints, with a sixties feel. The skirts will be longer and the shoes chunkier, like this doc martins with graphic prints. The extract on the left has aerodynamic streamline object images that shape the items in a innovative way like the garments will in this collection.


Final collection examples End of summer

High summer

High summer outfit uses the 90’s/60’s style garments with graphic prints and florals, the glasses and handbag give it a futuristic feel and the shapes are representativ e of aerodynamics.

End of summer outfit has a streamline coat and uses the basic crop top and high waisted skirt featured in the garment visuals with a 60s inspired heel. This outfit has a modern toned down futuristic approach.


This spring outfit incorperates the 60s cut out cape look with a crop and high waist ensemble.


Evaluation I am pleased with the way my trend has formed. The transformation from initial ideas and decades to final collection has shown a development in 60’s and 90’s styles and garments, with futuristic prints and graphics and fiery solar flare colour palettes. I feel that my collection has embarked all of the research I have conducted, the final collection is a true reflection of the decades and the aerodynamic garment ideals that I first set out with. This collection is destined for the retail environment as the fabircs and styles are easily adaptable to everyday wear and using affordable pieces. The trend focus of aerodynamic, futurism and solar is reflected in the colour palette more than print, as summer has a high focus on colour and style, minimal use of prints throughout the collection adds a unique style and starting point to the whole trend. For example one geometric print top with all the colours can spark off so many different styles taking influence from each of the colours used in the one top, forming a co-ordinated fashion. This collection is definitely something I would wear myself and I have aimed it at people my age. The style of the portfolio uses elements of Company Magazine house style, the courier font on a coloured background and underlined text makes a quirky young style. If I were to improve my portfolio I would try to make galaxy print using paints and bleach onto jersey to see how this look can be adapted for DIY as that is a trend forming with youtube tutorials and bloggers making my trend more versatille. 39

Bibliography PG 1. Wgsn trend forecasting PG 5 Figure 1, contemporary dress, PG 6 PG 10 PG 12 PG 13 PG 14 Mary katrantzou ail&id=1AB34F012F122B73C21106C7CAE4BD04DE06DB03 Cotton - Cotton photo from the USDA ARS Image Gallery . Pg 15 nim&page=2 PG 17 PG 19 – PG 20 – PG 21 –

PG 22 – my pinterest moodboard collections PG 23 Pg 25 Pg 26 ust-milly-simmonds/120325_milly__149low/ PG 27 _id=92473122 PG 28 hree-floor-orient-dress/ 60s-dress-by-alexandra PG 30 Trench oat&view=detail&id=EEC09B9B05FE3CE46A8547F4A766AE3A 2E7CE96B Parka iew=detail&id=22C51A1867C09AD67A7CB1DC25B75F5B60279 9CA Over knee sock Knee+catwalk&view=detail&id=C783FD709AD23FA495FB5DF EB8454AF2B08665AD 40

Bibliography continued PG 32 2 models 00AD7D8352B432323D1507E7A50A4969D1D758C8 Marc jacobs 89400D133BBF70A20992397CA0355BD915003BF7 Purple hair - colored hair | Tumblr Ponytail - Pony in the 50s Look hairstyles 2012 PG 34 Images courtesy of and PG 35 Top and skirt - Objects – louis vuitton I have tried to source images and credit where possible, although I started doing this part way through the portfolio so some image credit is missing.

Images on PG30 are my own sketches of my trend collection Portfolio presentation has been influenced by some elements of Company magazine December ‘13


Buying, forecasting and trend analysis  
Buying, forecasting and trend analysis  

Unit module by Emma Salter for Writing fashion and culture course at Southampton Solent University