Issuu on Google+

1

Emily Hoekstra


2

Table of Contents Women’s Wear Daily Cosmetics ... 3 Wall Street Journal Fashion ... 6 Vogue Trend ... 9 Fall Fashion Observation ... 11 Department Trends and Crossover ... 12 Fabric and Color Trends ... 14 FirstView Design Collection ... 16 Fashion Donts ... 17


3 Entry #1 Women’s Wear Daily – November 16, 2011 Article: L'Oréal Launching Advanced Haircare Line, By Belisa Silva Call it the newest bundling plan. As hair care continues to take its cue from skin care, manufacturers are pushing the notion that more is needed than just shampoo and conditioner. L’Oréal Paris is upping the game substantially with its aptly named new line, Advanced Haircare, designed to change how women care for their hair each day. “Right now, U.S. women believe that only skin care warrants an ongoing regimen,” said L’Oréal Paris USA president Karen Fondu. “They see hair as a quick fix when really, it deserves and needs the same multistep approach as skin care to be at its best.” Through the product introduction, one of L’Oréal’s main goals is shifting consumers’ mindsets from “cleanse and condition” to “cleanse, condition and care,” an idea that arose, in part, from monitoring women’s hair-care behaviors in international markets. “Despite American women’s love for hot tools and chemical treatments, they still haven’t quite come to realize the significant impact that treatments can make,” said Fondu, citing internal research that revealed the vast majority of Brazilian and Japanese women treat their hair through multistep routines. “Treatment usage is 77 percent penetration in Brazil and nearly seven out of 10 women in Japan use treatments,” she added. According to the brand, only 10 percent of American mass hair-care sales come from treatments. In terms of population, that translates into roughly 35 percent of U.S. women being engaged in the category. “We want to expand penetration and usage in the biggest category in the mass market,” said Fondu. Comprised of five sublines: Total Repair 5, Smooth Intense, Power Moisture, Color Vibrancy and Triple Resist, Advanced Haircare includes a shampoo and conditioner within each, paired with one or more complementary treatments. At the heart of the Advanced Haircare collection is a proprietary technology, called Arginine-K Complex, said to promote healthy hair growth. “Arginine reinforces the hair fiber,” said Michel Fahmy, vice president of marketing for L’Oréal Paris Hair Care. “It is like an amino acid, it fills in what needs to be filled in for fullness and health. [It] is the fourth-largest component of keratin in the hair and is one of its basic building blocks.” Each module, or system of products, within the collection includes Arginine-K Complex, paired with a need-specific customized active to address the five most common hair issues for American women. Although executives would not break out numbers, industry sources estimate that Advanced Haircare, which will begin its rollout to 35,000 doors in mid-December, could generate $100 million in first-year retail sales in the U.S. Full distribution is planned for early January.


4 “The mass hair category has been fairly banal,” said Fondu, who cited the 2003 introduction of Garnier Fructis and the 2009 entry, the sulfate-free Ever line, as two past game changers in mass hair care. She was quick to point out the silver lining for her brand. “This is an opportunity to shift the paradigm and educate women on the benefits of treatment. It’s about changing consumer behavior.” Total Repair 5, the hero module of the collection, is designed to address split ends, weakness, roughness, dullness and dehydration, with the help of cuticle-reinforcing ceramide. The treatments within Total Repair 5 include a Damage-Erasing Balm and a leave-in MultiRestorative Dry Oil. “When the shampoo and Balm are used together women can reverse up to one year’s worth of hair’s surface damage,” said Fahmy. Smooth Intense, the next module, features hair-smoothing oleo-keratin as its complementary ingredient. Its corresponding treatments are the Frizz Taming Serum, designed to control flyaways for 72 hours, and Xtreme Straight Crème. Power Moisture, another sub-line, features the water-attracting polymer, hyaluronic, and is designed to increase hair’s hydration levels, with the help of a rinse-out gel-like conditioning mask called the Rush Mask. Color Vibrancy, the range meant to minimize UV oxidation and maintain hair color by protecting hair fibers, features a Dual Protect Spray, which consumers can shake to activate. Triple Resist, the brand’s fifth module, aims to reduce hair breakage with a concentrated form of Arginine-K complex. Triple Resist’s coinciding leave-in Ultimate Strength Solution is said to target and reinforce weak points in hair. “Women looking for the right solution will have an entire regimen and with a system in place comes more results as far as satisfaction,” said Fahmy. “It’s not just lather and rinse. It’s about treatment.” The shampoos and conditioners in the line come in two sizes, 12.6 oz. and 25.4 oz., and will cost $4.99 and $7.49, respectively. Each treatment will retail for $6.99. In development for five years, Advanced Haircare resulted from the insights of six global research labs. Products were tested on 5,000 U.S. women, utilizing “the very best” among its large roster of scientists. There are 23 patents across the line, including eight unique ingredient patents. In addition, 40 fragrances were tested before the research and development team settled on the fruity-floral scent, used in each product. “It’s been a real adventure [and] journey over the last five years,” said Fondu. “The level of innovation we are bringing to the mass hair-care segment is a first. We are helping to build the category. We will make a difference in the minds of consumers.” In order to educate women about the line’s benefits, brand executives said there will be a comprehensive educational push, through video and Web content on the brand Web site and social channels as well as in-store displays. “The treatments come in user-friendly forms and will be displayed alongside shampoos and conditioners so selecting a personalized regimen has never been easier,” added Fondu.


5 L’Oréal’s newly appointed brand ambassador, Lea Michele, will serve as the face of the Total Repair 5 Module, while the remaining four will be fronted by still-undetermined brand representatives. “The scale of the launch is evident,” said Fondu. “This is a very big, very significant launch for L’Oréal Paris. We have very high expectations.” In Short: L’Oreal Paris is attempting to completely reteach American women how to care for their hair. They are launching a new line named Advanced Haircare meant to encourage women to treat and care for their hair daily, beyond just the usual cleanse and condition. Studies have found that only about 35% of American women regularly use hair treatments as opposed to 77% of women in Brazil, and 70% in Japan. L’Oreal says that hair deserves the same attention as skin and should be cared for with the same ideals of treatment and routine. Their line consists of five different regimens, each with an entire collection that includes cleansers and conditioners as well as treatments and masks. The five categories are: Total Repair 5, Smooth Intense, Power Moisture, Color Vibrancy and Triple Resist. My thoughts: I think many times cosmetic and care companies try to market unnecessary and fairly useless extras; However, I do believe there is something to be said about the way we care for our hair and the fact that we assault it with heat and chemicals but fail to restore it. I would say there is definitely something we could learn from countries in which we typically think of women with beautiful hair. In a recent personal experience, I was elated by the outcome of a deep treatment performed by my stylist at his suggestion. He had just significantly lightened my already coarse, dry hair, and I was terrified of leaving with crispy locks. But the treatment worked wonders and my hair looked and felt healthier than it had in years. I think women should relearn their hair care routine, and that L’Oreal is getting them on the right track.


6 Entry #2 The Wall Street Journal –November 2, 2012 Article: A Guide to High Living Turns 40 by CHRISTINE LENNON Enter the world of W Magazine—the glossy that has long cast an insider's eye on society, art, fashion and celebrity Four decades ago, when John Fairchild came up with the idea for W Magazine, he sought to chronicle every aspect of a life well lived. He'd been working for Women's Wear Daily, the fashion trade newspaper his family published, and noticed that the "society" crowd, as they were known then and, more reluctantly, now, had claimed the publication as their own. "The idea for W from the beginning was to talk about fine living, which today sounds like a dumb phrase," writes the long-retired Mr. Fairchild, 85, in the foreword to the new Abrams book "W: The First 40 Years," compiled by the magazine's current editor, Stefano Tonchi, with contributor Christopher Bagley and art director Joseph Logan. "But in the final analysis, all we are ever interested in as people is how others live, what they eat, what they wear, and how they get their kicks. It all boils down to the humanity of work and fun." What Mr. Fairchild wanted most from his magazine was the scoop: Editorial firsts, exclusive coverage, elitist gossip and access to places and parties to which no typical journalist could gain entry. The result of this drive—and that of the editors, designers, stylists and photographers who continued to execute his mission—is on display throughout the book's more than 300 pages. "You see it in the 'In and Out' lists that he did," said Mr. Tonchi. "It was very much the manifest of Mr. Fairchild. The magazine has always been like, 'If you don't know what we're talking about, too bad for you.' " (In 1974, Halston and Dan Rather were in, while Mick Jagger and Marie Hélène de Rothschild were out.) Back then, the inside advantage meant candid shots of nights at Studio 54, Ingmar Bergman's monastic Swedish hideaway, style icon and "couture fixture" Gloria Guinness barefoot outside of her house near Palm Beach and socialite Pat Buckley perched on a mountain of luggage. During the '90s and '00s, under editor in chief Patrick McCarthy and creative director Dennis Freedman, the magazine developed a reputation as an artistic playground for photographers who might not have otherwise considered shooting fashion spreads. Paolo Roversi, PhilipLorca diCorcia and Tina Barney were drawn to W's oversize pages, its insider status and the appeal of dozens of pages devoted to their work, without the commercial limitations across the rest of the newsstand. It is safe to say that no other publication could have scored intimate portraits of serious haute couture buyers like Deeda Blair, Marie Chantal of Greece and Ann Getty akin to those shot by Juergen Teller in 1999.


7 This was also the era that solidified W's position as an authority on contemporary art, publishing extensive profiles of artists as varied as Jeff Koons, Ellsworth Kelly and Louise Bourgeois. Kate Moss, who first appeared on a W cover at 18, has spent nearly 20 years as the magazine's favorite muse. Ms. Moss was also the subject of a 40-page portfolio in which more than a dozen artists, including Chuck Close and Tom Sachs, re-imagined her likeness. Mr. Fairchild most likely couldn't have predicted what shape the lives of the fashionable and famous would take four decades after his vision came to life. But beyond the stylistic stunts, like the splashy 2010 cover featuring a nude Kim Kardashian with only Barbara Kruger's art to hide behind, the soul of the magazine is still its coverage of the way people, albeit extraordinary people, actually live. In the pulse-quick world of digital media, "scoop" is increasingly elusive, and the magazine's thoughtful coverage of breathtaking places, like a rare glimpse of the Agnelli family home near Turin in 1996 or French decorator Jacques Grange's farm house in Provence, continues to set it apart. As Marian McEvoy, who spent time in Paris for W in the '70s and '80s (and is currently a contributor to this section), writes in her essay for the book, "Entire cities have also become fodder for the W treatment," citing Bruce Weber's 60-page ode to post-Katrina New Orleans and Michael Thompson's Barcelona portfolio. "[These] are projects that no other magazine in the world would, or should, attempt. It is a W thing." (A version of this article appeared November 2, 2012, on page D3 in the U.S. edition of The Wall Street Journal, with the headline: A Guide to High Living Turns 40.) In short: The new book “W: the first 40 years”, details the vision and journey of John Fairchild as he sought to produce a publication different from any other fashion magazine. It was an artistic mission to provide samples of the lives of high society. His candid shots and unique editorials of glamorous people created a sort of exclusivity that no other journalists could touch. The now 85-year-old still fondly recalls everything he did in the name of “humanity of work and fun”, as his successors create a beautiful book to memorialize the magazine’s, and Mr. Fairchild’s, history.


8 My thoughts: There is a reason I am majoring in Magazine Journalism. There is also a reason that the closet of my old bedroom is completely stacked with fashion publications I can’t force myself to get rid of. My love of magazines began at a young age, and never faltered. One of the biggest of these inspirations as I got older was W. It did not offer suggestions for affordable clothes like Marie Claire, and not even Vogue could touch it. It was different than anything else. It documented the height of high fashion and high living. It was a piece of art in a way that it didn’t matter whether I could afford anything in it or not. I was interested in the photo-shoots, the direction of designers, and the insight into lives I was not familiar with. I have John Fairchild to thank for all of this, and will definitely be checking out this new book in the future.

The cover of W’s new book


9 Entry #3, Vogue – October 24, 2012 Article: Velvet Revival: 15 New Takes on the Fall Trend by Katherine Bernard Velvet is undergoing a renaissance. Although its past associations include historical festivals, A Christmas Carol on Broadway, and sumptuous pouf sleeves on eighties dresses, it’s time to wipe the slate clean—and then swathe it in velvet. The first entry point into the plush rebirth is fall’s baroque trend. Velvet’s innate opulence lends itself well to channeling seventeenth-century grandeur, especially when accessorized with gilded headbands and swollen stone earrings. Or forgo actual jewels in favor of Versace’s black velvet coat printed with gem-encrusted crosses. If referencing royal courts is too literal, there are plenty of simple ways to wear it, too. Current/Elliott’s velvet jeans are the antithesis of regal cloaks; you may be the first person to ride a bike or read the Sunday paper in velvet. It also functions as a cool accent. Take Christopher Kane’s fuzzy black roses printed on a purple tulle skirt, the soft merlot straps on a pair of Jason Wu heels, and the cross-body velvet patchwork on Peter Pilotto’s perfect party dress. But velvet pieces are a lot like diamonds: Whether serious or playful, you have to commit. The best ways to wear the fabric without feeling cloaked in suffocating richness is to incorporate it an unexpected way. A tiny Miu Miu ruby clutch paired with well-worn denim is fun, not fancy, as is Junya Watanbe’s crushed velvet biker jacket (so not leather) and Aquilano.Rimondi’s jacquard collar (equal parts ironic and irresistible). Even Rei Kawakubo got in on the action, creating velvet pieces for Comme des Garçons that are surprisingly structured. Suffice it to say, velvet’s no longer underground. October 24, 2012 5:31p.m.

In short: Along with fall came the baroque trend, and along with baroque, came velvet. The fabric isn’t coming back with its stuffy old associations, instead it has metamorphosed and been translated into a language that today’s fashionistas can acquire. Seen in designer lines like Versace, Current/Elliot, and Mui Mui, the evolution of velvet is apparent. Designers have taken liberty to bring velvet to a new level, creating jeans, heels, and biker jackets from it.


10 My thoughts: While I appreciate classic, familiar silhouettes, I love seeing infusions of new fabrics and textures in tandem with them. My first and last memory of velvet is the awful burgundy dress my mother made me wear through the winter holidays as a kid. Since then, I have had distaste for the fabric and was often confused with how it could work in everyday wardrobe. But with the innovations of designers and evolutionary uses, I’d say velvet is back on my radar. It has even noticeably trickled down to mass markets including Topshop and Asos.

Above, interesting uses of velvet by Topshop this season.


11 Entry #4 Fall Fashion Observation—October 29, 2012 The Women’s fashion of Fall 2011 was all about Old-English plaids, peplum structure, lace, and bright pants. The peplum has staying power, and has maybe even become a classic, as it has evolved into less trendy variations that are still popular in Fall of 2012. On the other hand, plaid will always be a cold weather staple, but is less on trend now than in previous years. Bright pants also seem to be on the out, as 2012 finds women mostly shrouded in dark, jewel, or neutral tones. This Fall’s main aesthetic appears to be polished, lady-like, with a touch of old-fashion charm. Common pieces are oversized cape coats, elbow-length gloves, and felt cloche hats in outerwear, as well as “snoods” or thick cowl necks, collars, fur, oversized sweaters, tweed, and geometric prints. I have seen this in the designer Fall 2012 lines that premiered last year, as well as on the street, and offered in mass retail as of late.

A Gucci cape coat, Bottega Veneta past-elbow gloves and peplum, and 3.1 Philip Lim oversized geometric print sweater, respectively. Fall 2012 lines.


12 Entry #5 Department Trends and Crossover—October 12, 2012 In the vast Women’s department of Neiman Marcus, the eye-catching fall trends blur into one another. The first that I notice is leather—in all forms. In Women’s apparel, interestingly enough, it starts with a buttery cognac pair of leather skinny pants by J Brand, and meets a black leather tee by Barcelona. The trend then crosses over into outerwear with a unique leather jacket by Rick Owens, with a cowl neck and a high-low hem that starts above the chest in the front and graduates to a gathered, waist length in the back. In accessories, leather appears as a black Gucci Obi belt. Another popular material this Fall is tweed. In evening wear I find it first in a purple Carolina Herrera sleeveless dress, while Hadleigh’s royal blue and tweed smoking loafers continue the trend into footwear. My favorite look for this trend is a daytime dress by Dolce & Gabbana, featuring a tweed shift-shape body and billowing floral-print chiffon sleeves. In current style, color-blocking has also found its way into Fall looks. A black and white color blocked blouse by Adrienne Vittadini, exemplifies a modern take on the classic oxford button-down. Black meets blood-orange in a bold cape by Alexander McQueen. The blocked outerwear piece has leather fastens and a stream-lined silhouette to die for. The trend even crosses into swimwear territory, in a two-shaded coral one-piece suit by Coco Contours. Bright, abstract prints can be seen throughout the department store. An evening dress by Black Halo is comprised of an ivory base and a beautiful mess of greens, blues, charcoals, and oranges. A number of Caroline Rose jackets in outerwear, display a central theme of flowing abstract prints, silky fabric, and vibrant colors. Even the Kate Spade alissa tote follows the trend, with a print reminiscent of a Van Gogh painting.


13 Lastly, in color, I notice an abundance of jewel-toned cobalt blue. In women’s apparel and footwear, a casual jersey dress by Isda & Co matches the suede platform pump by Nicholas Kirkwood. While the accessories department has a profusion of the on-trend color, a Lanvin silk scarf is a standout, with a floral mixture of cobalt and black. All three pieces are heavily saturated in deep blue and en vogue.

Dolce & Gabbana tweed and chiffon dress, Alexander McQueen color-blocked cape


14 Entry #7 Color and Fabric Trends窶年ovember 12, 2012 Three on-trend fabrics for Fall/Winter 2012 1. Brocade: Originated in Byzantium, an ancient city in Greece. Made from weaving colorful silks.

2. Wool: Oldest known wool textile traced to Denmark. Woven from fiber obtained from sheep and certain other animals.

3. Velvet: First produced in Baghdad. Traditionally made with silk, but also with fibers such as linen, mohair, and wool. Lately, synthetic velvet has developed made from combinations of polyester, nylon, viscose, and acetate.


15 Three on-trend colors for Fall/Winter 2012 1. Tangerine (Pantone 17-1463) Currently being used by Bill Blass

2. French Roast (Pantone 19-1012) Currently being used by Tracy Reese

3. Bright Chartreuse (Pantone 14-0445) Currently being used by Nanette Lepore


16 Entry #11 FirstView Design Collection—November 12, 2012 From FirstView.com I chose a show by Vivaz, a designer I had never heard of before. The Ready-to-Wear Fall/Winter 2013 collection caught my eye with its extraordinary garment detail, intricate designs, silhouettes close to perfection, and allover breathtaking demeanor. The collection’s whimsical and exquisitely feminine pieces are too glamorous to be carried in any mass market retailer. Instead, the gowns belong on sites like Net-a-Porter, as they are begging to be worn to A-list events, balls, and galas. I chose the design below for its outrageously skimming silhouette, and the fact that it literally looks painted on the model. The combination of sheer and nude lace, somehow only add to the glamour of this formfitting gown. There is nothing risqué about it, and though it is a piece of art, it also appears incredibly movable and functional.


17 Entry #13 Fashion Don’t’s—November 14, 2012

Although it is an allover train wreck, the lack of silhouette is the biggest killer of

The problem with this garment began first

this look. Among other ruining traits, the

at the design table, and continued through

gauze-like fabric choice, and the too-high

fabric use, and color choice. The equal

front hem, render this garment on Taylor

tiers and ruffles look dated, while the

Momson, a fashion don’t

allover ivory white fails to impress anywhere outside of a wedding ceremony. The black tie and high collar are the distasteful cherry on top of Miley Cyrus’s fashion don’t.


18 Entry #13 Fashion Don’t’s—November 14, 2012: Continued

Jean-Paul Gaultier is known for pushing the envelope, however, I personally believe tube-tops belong on no one, let alone tube tops made from denim jackets used to show off men’s broad shoulders. If that wasn’t bad enough, pairing them with pleated pants furthers the irrelevance.

This is a men’s fashion don’t I have personally seen in action. Regardless of whether you are a basketball coach, mixing suits and sporttrainers will never be acceptable. Like wearing tennis shoes with a gown, dress fashion and sport fashion are not made to mix.


19


Emily's Fashion Journal