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Saw you in the Ojo



El Ojo del Mar / October 2009

Saw you in the Ojo





Joy Dunstan writes about the many faces of Mexico and the wide variety of languages spoken in this, one of the most colorfully diverse countries on the face of the earth.

z D IR EC T OR Y z




PUBLISHER Richard Tingen

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Alejandro Grattan-Domínguez


Cover by Bruce Fraser

“Consuelo” talks about one of her favorite sanctuaries, though it’s a place which most other people like to avoid.

12 POLITICS (sort of) Dr. Richard Rhoda tries to get to the basic reasons that conservatives and liberals fight so much, but falls just short of deciding that the Devil makes them do it.

14 BOOK REVIEW Jim Tipton reviews Boomers in Paradise: Living in Puerto Vallarta, in which the author, Robert Nelson, interviewed many residents who seemed concerned about the dramatic changes that have changed their beloved town into a city.

18 HUMOR Neil McKinnon’s “world’s greatest lover” gets heatedly involved in a rather unusual game of Bingo. After finishing the article, our readers will never again regard the word “Bingo!” in quite the same way.

20 CELEBRITY PROFILE Jim Tuck examines the life, career and curious contradictions of Marcel Proust, whom Jim regards the greatest writer of all time, if indeed not the greatest genius in all of recorded history.

21 NATURAL WILDLIFE Alex Martinez, a conservationist based along the west coast of Mexico, writes about one of the most impressive birds to inhabit such parts. The aptly-named Frigate Bird rules the air space above the sea with an impressive array of “weapons.”

Tel: 01-800-765-3788 Associate Publisher David Tingen Director of Marketing Bruce Fraser Graphic Design Roberto C. Rojas Jazmin Eliosa Special Events Editor Darcy Reed Associate Editor Jim Tipton Contributing Editors Paul Jackson Henri Loridans Feature Editor Jim Tuck (Honorary) Staff Photographer Xill Fessenden Staff Writers Mildred Boyd Ilse Hoffmann Floyd Dalton Fred C. Dobbs Sales Manager Bruce Fraser 333 559 2046 Office Secretary Iliana Oregel ADVERTISING OFFICE Calle Niza #152, Puerto Vallarta Send all correspondence, subscriptions or advertising to: El Ojo del Mar Ave. Hidalgo 223 (or Apartado 279), 45900 Chapala, Jalisco Tels.: (376) 765 3676, Fax 765 3528 PRINTING: Quadrimag S.A. de C.V. El Ojo del Mar aparece los primeros cinco días de cada mes. (Out over the first five days of each month) Certificado de Licitud de Título 3693 Certificado de Licitud de Contenido 3117. Reserva al Título de Derechos de Autor 04-2007-111412131300-102 Control 14301. Permisos otorgados por la Secretaría de Gobernación (EXP. 1/432 “88”/5651 de 2 de junio de 1993) y SEP (Reserva 171.94 control 14301) del 15 de enero de 1994. Distribución: Calle Niza #152, Puerto Vallarta All contents are fully protected by copyright and may not be reproduced without the written consent of El Ojo del Mar. Opinions expressed by the authors do not necessarily reflect the views of the Publisher or the Editor, nor are we responsible for the claims made by our advertisers. We welcome letters, which should include name, address and telephone number.


El Ojo del Mar / October 2009

as a personal insult. “Celsito, where do you live?” I asked him one day, having realized that as talkative as he was, he had By Alejandro Grattan-Dominguez never said a word about his daily mode of existence. “With my abuelita.” he murmured, looking bored. CELSITO—A Prince Amongst Paupers My friends and I had decided to set up an educational fund for him. It seemed criminal that such a bright and resourceful boy was not in school. bout thirty years ago, “Where do you and your grandtwo friends of mine in mother live? I want to go see her.” Los Angeles were think“Oh, in nice house. Toilet flushing ing of buying property in Ensenaand everything. But abuelita too old da. My wife Janet and I would often to talk. Ears, eyes, head, all bad.” accompany them down on weekI let the matter drop, but later in ends to scout out a suitable location mentioning Celsito to someone at for what they hoped would someday the hotel, I learned that the boy had be their dream retirement house. no grandmother and no house, flushDuring these expeditions, we always ing toilets or otherwise. He lived, as stayed at the picturesque Rosarito far as anyone knew, on the street. Beach Hotel. It was there that I first took charge. I decided to adopt him: an impulmet a young street urchin who has Were we not entitled, he sweetly sive and perhaps foolhardy decision, remained indelibly fixed in my mind asked the elderly cashier, to a slight but luckily Janet had also fallen in and in my heart. discount? He politely pointed out love with him—and since we had no Celsito Casillas was ten years old, that as the movie probably ran about children of our own, she was vaguely and rather frail. Yet he had lustrous two hours, and since we had missed amenable to my reclamation projbrown eyes and a voice deep as a some thirty minutes of it, perhaps a ect. bass fiddle. small reduction in A lawyer in “Señor, can I watch your car?” he price would be in If Celsito had been Ensenada advised asked me one morning in the hotel’s order. Flummoxed that if indeed my literary agent when me parking lot. by this unusual the boy was homeNursing a bit of a hangover, I tactic, the elderly I first went to Holly- less and without snarled, “Watch it do what?” cashier could only wood, I’d probably own family, there should “I keep this pretty car from getsputter that each be no great obstating stole,” he answered with a conticket had to be the place by now. cle in legally adoptfident smile, already dusting off my paid for in full. He ing him. The toughcar with a rag. did, however, agree to let Celsito in er task would be in getting him into “Oh, how can you do that?” I for free. the United States. I was prepared, barked. As we walked into the theater, I however to cross that bridge when I “I yell loud, police coming soon,” remarked to my wife that if Celsito came to it. he replied and immediately gave had been my literary agent when I What I was unprepared for was me an example of his lung power. As first went to Hollywood, I’d probably Celsito’s reaction. Even after I pitched the ringing left my ears, I chuckled. own the place by now. him on all the marvelous opportuniThe little Mexican had more than his Another time, in a fancy restauties awaiting him in Los Angeles, he share of moxie. rant, the boy tried to bargain down seemed strangely unconvinced. Celsito soon became our unoffithe prices on the menu, arguing that “Yes, don Alejandro, you like me cial guide. There wasn’t much about because my wife and I weren’t really now. I make you laugh and even save Ensenada he didn’t know, and over hungry, we would probably leave you some pesos. But if I go with you the many weekends that followed, plenty of food on our plates, which and later do no good in school and he led my friends and my wife and could then be distributed to the peocost you many monies, then you and me through a thicket of sales agents ple back in the kitchen. This time Celyour Señora will have shame for me... and hustlers much like an intrepid sito’s boldness backfired. The owner also there is some here who need guide steering a safari safely through ordered him from the café, saying me. No, better I stay in Ensenada. the jungles of darkest Africa. that all patrons had to be wearing Then always you remember me with He was also an audacious neshoes. Celsito was barefoot. He had some smiles, eh?” gotiator. Two examples: one night never owned a pair of shoes. I was curious as to who these Janet and I decided to catch a late The following morning, my people were who needed him. It sadmovie. But arriving at the box office, friends and I bought him a good pair dened me that I had so abruptly lost we were informed that the picture of shoes. But our anemic burst of the son I had always wanted. had already been running for more generosity only seemed to embarSometime later, after my friends than thirty minutes. I shrugged and rass him. He didn’t have the faintest decided to buy property in another forked forth the admission price for idea of how to tie the laces—and he part of Mexico, I informed Celsito the three of us. At this point, Celsito was a lad who regarded any problem that we would not be coming back


to Ensenada. My wife and I took him on one last shopping trip, and it was then that I had my initial inkling of what his life was really all about. The first clue came when I noticed that many of the clothes he selected that day were a few sizes too small for him. Curiosity aroused, I decided, after we had bid him a final and sad farewell, to follow him. It was still early morning as my cab trailed behind him at a discreet distance. First he stopped in a bakery, then hurriedly walked on for a few miles until he came to a gulley south of town, just past the garbage dump. Down in the pit of the deep ditch sat several teetering cardboard hovels. The refuse-littered canyon seemed deserted. But as Celsito started down the steep hill, many small children came out of the huts, all talking and waving. It was obvious that their main man had just come home. Celsito happily began to pass around the loaves of bread he had bought, and then handed out the new shirts and pants. The children were in rags, and many appeared undernourished; but for the moment they were smiling and laughing like middle-class kids greeting a beloved older brother who had just come home. That was the last time I ever saw Celsito Casillas. Yet over these past thirty years, I have often thought about him; and whenever I do, I always remember him, just as he had once hoped, with “some smiles.” He would be about forty by now, and I have no doubt that if Celsito still lives in Ensenada, he’s today its most enterprising entrepreneur, if indeed not its mayor. Now, perhaps that notion is a bit Pollyannaish. Yet over the course of a long rollercoaster of a life, I have noticed that the best people always change only for the better.

ALEJANDRO GRATTAN is a former screenwriter/film director who has published seven novels. Two of his novels are in over 1000 libraries in the US and Canada. He co-founded the Ajijic Writers’ Group 21 years ago and has been the Editor of El Ojo del Lago for the past 14 years.

Saw you in the Ojo


A BALLOON IN CACTUS By Maggie Van Ostrand

CANTINFLAS: Super Comic, Super Star, Super Man


ario Moreno Reyes was the sixth son of 15 children, who became a worldwide cinema super star, was married to the same woman for over 30 years and made enormous financial contributions to the Mexican poor. He was called Cantinflas. There are two stories about how he chose that name. One story is that his family regarded show business as less than respectable, and so he changed his name in order to avoid bringing shame upon them. The other is that, at one of his first nightclub engagements, a heckler taunted him with, “En la cantina, tu inflas!” (“In the


bar room, you drink!”). For some reason, this taunt amused him, and he shortened it into Cantinflas. Cantinflas began his career when he was 16 years old, as a song-anddance man in “carpas” variety shows performed in tents. He was also a circus clown, a bullfighting clown, whose job it was to divert the bull’s attention from a fallen matador, and an amateur bullfighter. He found work as a singer, boxer, shoeshine boy and ticket taker. His early films include “No Te Engañes Corazon/Don’t Deceive Yourself, My Heart” (1936) and “El Signo de la Muerte/Sign of Death” (1939), but it

El Ojo del Mar / October 2009

was “Ahi Esta el Detalle/ There Is the Detail” (1940), which began his reign as the Spanish-speaking world’s most popular comic. Sporting double daubs of mustache juxtaposed with the outer edges of comic valet to David Niven’s rigidly his upper lip like a pair of hairy apossnobby character, “Phineas Fogg,” trophes, his dark and curly mane was in the lavish production of Around tousled, and he sometimes sported a the World in 80 Days (1956). Cantinhat perched at an impish angle. flas’ performance ranked among the Cantinflas played the “pelado”, an most memorable in this film, the very impoverished, bumbling simpleton, first to use cameo roles, including who found himself fighting the rest Red Skelton, Marlene Dietrich, Noel of the world in order to achieve jusShirley Matice. His characters His characters de- Coward, cLaine, Jose Greco, defended the weak, the weak, Ronald Colman, touched our hearts fended and had a problem touched our hearts Buster Keaton, Beatrice Lilly and Frank keeping their pants up. Charlie Chaplin and had a problem Sinatra. It was narhimself, upon see- keeping their pants rated by Edward R. Murrow. ing the work of his Cantinflas was younger Mexican up. awarded the covcolleague, called eted Golden Globe by the Hollywood him “the greatest comedian in the Foreign Press Association. Cantinflas world.” returned to Mexico, continuing to One of Cantinflas’ trademarks delight his fans. He died a multi-milwas his rapid talk as he outsmarted lionaire at 83. He never forgot where authorities with a lengthy stream of he came from, and left much of his chatter that sounded like gibberish. money to Mexico City’s poor. He was doing “Inspector Clouseau” “El mundo debera reir mas. Pero long before Peter Sellers. despues de haber comido.” (The world In his honor, the Spanish Acadshould laugh more. But after having emy created a verb, cantinflear, the eaten.)—Cantinflas meaning of which is to talk rapidly, yet what you’re saying doesn’t make any sense. Cantinflas’ favorite of his films was his spoof of both dramatic versions of Vincent Blasco Ibanez’ Blood and Sand. His was called Ni Sangre Ni MAGGIE VAN OSArena/ Neither Blood nor Sand. TRAND is a syndicated Cantinflas was The Three Stoogwriter and has been pubes, Abbott & Costello and all seven lished in the Chicago Tridwarves squeezed into one little bune and the Boston Globe. Mexican man, whose energy level She is also a successful stand-up surpassed the octane level in Pemex. comedienne, having often perProducer Mike Todd cast Cantinformed at the Waldorf Astoria in flas in the pivotal role of “PasseparNYC. tout,” the bicycle-riding, resourceful,


Finally, to help fill up all that extra life span, I could join the underground bunker where others my age will be hiding out and engaging in traditional retirement hobbies— bricklaying, glass-cutting, sculpting, and learning to play the organ. Over 40 years of this, we could wind up with a fair-sized cathedral and attract small, charitable donations to cover the cost of our Tic Tacs.


edical science is at it again, this time filling baby boomer heads with the crazy idea that many of us living today are going to live to be 100 years old or more (without even giving us a chance to get a second opinion). I have always thought 72 a fair and sociable timeframe for windsign of danger. To say nothing of ing down the party (76 for their theory of never leaving your women - only time we gentlemen house at all. may go first). It wasn’t that long But there’s another problem. I ago when our stooped, asthmatic don’t believe I can afford to live to Victorian forbearers seldom lived be 100. Taking into account every past age 40. (And who could blame penny I have so far for my retirethem?) ment, I estimate that if I retired toAnd what about Australopithday I could afford ecus? If he made live until the end it to 23, the panA box of Tic Tacs, for to of this calendar demonium on the costs less year. Anything lonsavannah would example, go on for weeks. than a dollar, and is for ger would require I forage for But try telling him many of us a treatment that food and ferret out he still has another 80 years of chas- guaranteed effective a little secret home in someone’s tool ing mammoths for any ailment. shed. around, and he’ll So, I’ll need a figet a heart arnancial plan to help me stretch my rhythmia just thinking about it. dollars (although the stretching I My problem is that I don’t know need may be against the Geneva what we’re supposed to be doing Conventions). over all this extra lifetime, except First, to hedge against inflafor staying out of everyone’s way. tion, I’ll have to buy several deYounger generations will all be cades worth of canned food at topushing and shoving everybody day’s lower prices. These would be and making a ruckus. After all, brands packed with scrumptious, these will be their peak pushing unidentifiable gristle with just and shoving and making-a-ruckus enough flavor to vaguely suggest years, and I’ll be taking cover. the taste and aroma of the original According to my understanding food source. of Mr. Charles Darwin, turtles repNext, for my health care, I will be resent a fine standard on just how closing my eyes and taking placeto stay out of harm’s way into your bos, seeing as they do only slightly 100s (please don’t quote me on this worse than most of our regular - in fact, I wouldn’t mention it at all). medications, and they are much Our crafty reptilian friends taught cheaper. A box of Tic Tacs, for exme three important survival rules: ample, costs less than a dollar, and keep a slow, steady course, never is for many of us a treatment guarmake a sudden move, and most anteed effective for any ailment. importantly, duck inside at the first

ED TASCA’S novel The Fishing Trip That Got Away was recently published by the Roseheart Publishing Company. Ed’s an award-winning humor writer (winner in the prestigious Robert Benchley Society Humor-writing Award three years in a row--judged by Dave Barry). Also winner of awards and the 2008 winner of M. Culbertson’s Life and Humor Award. gonkies@

Saw you in the Ojo


The Many Faces of Mexico By Joy Birnbach Dunstan


ack in the U.S., S., ty my specialty oas a psychog therapist was working with what is common-ly known as multiple personality disorder. Maybe that’s why I feel so at home here in Mexico, land of so many distinctive faces and personalities. Mexico is sophistimodern cated and naïve, ultra-modern d and laidand backward, frenzied back, wealthy and poverty-stricken. Just when I think I’m getting to know what Mexico is like, I meet a whole


new sside of her to chalt lenge the image I’d he held. Geog Geographish cally, she’s a harsh barren desert, a fertile valley, a lush tropi-cal jungle, and a magnificent beach. She’s so parched and dry the air is hazy with dust, and then she’s drenched with rains that overflow city curbs and occasionally entire villages. Parts of her rest languidly at sea level while other parts perch more than a mile high above the clouds. She’s bone-dry and suffocatingly humid, she’s icy-cold and scorchingly hot, sometimes all in the same day. More than just her physical attributes make this a country of contrasts. Mexico’s people and cultures are as diverse as her land. I’m continually fascinated as I meet yet another new of part of her. Unlike the U.S. that prides itself on being a melting pot, Mexico is proud of its diversity and makes fewer attempts to

El Ojo del Mar / October 2009

homogenize. surrounded by its own heritage and As a teenager I moved with my culture. Mexico is one of the most family from New York to California. linguistically diverse countries in the It was fun to wear clothing in styles world today. Many of the indigenous that had not yet migrated from east people have retained their own lanto west. Today, however, with the adguage and speak Spanish as a secvent of shopping malls and corporate ond language, if at all. mergers, you can buy something on On a recent trip to Quintana Roo one coast and return it to the same in the Yucatan, I was surprised at how store on the other. Strip malls and many locals I met who speak Mayan chain stores have transported local as their primary language, retaining specialties into standardized invena proud sense of their noble heritage tory. Local color has faded to beige. while raising their children in this Mass merchandising is definitely rapidly changing world. There are on its way here in Mexico as well, around 1½ million speakers of Mayan but for now it’s still in Mexico today. I possible to find loabout Mexico is one of the wondered cal treasures and concepts like gedistinctive environ- most linguistically di- netic memory and ments. Santa Clara verse countries in the collective unconhas its copper, Oaxscious as I watched aca has its black world today. Many of Maya workers pottery, Paracho the indigenous people pushing wheelbarits guitars. Age-old at the Tulum have retained their rows crafts continue to ruins. Do they feel language and a sense of kinship be passed down to own new generations speak Spanish as a sec- with their ancestors of family members who built those anin villages special- ond language, if at all. cient temples and izing in their own pyramids? Are the particular art forms. secrets of the MaIndividual families have their distincyas imprinted somewhere deep in tive styles that mark a piece as theirs their psyches? alone. Even the Mexican government Several years ago in Zihuatanejo, has a hand in maintaining different I was taught how a clay roof tile can Mexico’s. Over the years, Fonatur, be traced to its maker by the size Mexico’s national trust fund for tourand shape of its curve since they ist development, has poured money are formed by bending the soft clay into developing several coastal areas over the thigh of its maker. Do you as mega-resorts, cleverly bringing in suppose the tiles of the heftiest artihuge sums of tourist money while sans are sought after because their keeping the hoards of tourists tidily breadth saves money by necessitatin their designated places. ing fewer tiles? Cancun, Ixtapa, Cabo, and several In the U.S. pretty much everyone other resorts offer the comforts of speaks English. While Spanish is cerhome to vacationers seeking suntainly the predominant language of shine and surf with a foreign accent. Mexico, there are 62 indigenous lanMy maid would be overwhelmed guages still in active use today, each should she find herself suddenly in

one of these strange places. Having never been beyond Guadalajara, this face of Mexico would be as foreign to her as a trip to Kansas. Coastal towns away from the resorts are my favorite face of Mexico. Time moves slowly at the beach, and the sign announcing the lone internet café is the only testament to the arrival of the 21st century. Sleepy, laid back, and dusty, fishing villages offer a tranquil beauty that has little in common with the resorts aside from the sound of surf. A few hours’ drive and a world away are the colonial towns that make up so much of Mexico’s interior. While architecture is not a word that even applies to most coastal construction, the architecture, reminiscent of its European roots, to be found in the interior villages and cities is world renowned for its style and grace. The cries of the revolutionaries still ring loudly as you walk down the cobbled streets of colonial Mexico. So many personalities, so many faces, even so many languages, yet there is one voice common throughout all of Mexico. Whether the backdrop is a cathedral spire, a bustling

marketplace, a fishing boat, or a Maya ruin, the crow of the rooster can be heard everywhere in the country. You may find his raucous cry to be amusing, soothing, or irritating, but nothing says Mexico more than the ubiquitous rooster. I’ve met so many Mexico’s in my time here, and I have no idea how many more are awaiting introduction. No single one of them can lay claim to being the “real” Mexico. Each is an integral part of the whole. Yet so far, wherever I go and with all the faces I’ve seen, the face of Mexico is always the one that welcomes me home with the brightest smile and most melodious roosters.

JOY DUNSTAN is a fully-accredited behavioral psychologist.

Saw you in the Ojo




en Masson has been playing, teaching and writing about bridge for 35 years. Originally from Dublin, Ireland, Ken has been living in Toronto since 1967. He and his wife and bridge partner, Rosemarie, are now in their third year wintering in Mexico. The bidding on this hand was fairly standard in the modern game and was probably repeated at many tables in a matchpoint duplicate game. With East and West passing throughout, North opened 1 diamond and South responded 1 spade. North rebid 2 clubs and South made a conventional call known as “fourth

suit forcing”, in this case 2 hearts. This alertable bid announced the values to force to game and asked partner for a further description of his hand. The fourth suit call does not promise any particular holding in the suit bid. In this deal, North rebid his clubs to show 5-5 in the minors (and also denied holding as many as 3 spades, since he had already denied 4 by not supporting partner at the first opportunity). South now finished the bidding with a call of 3 No Trump. West led her fourth best heart, the 8, and declarer played low from dummy. East played the 10 (third

hand high) and declarer followed with the four. East continued with the heart 3, covered by South’s 7 and now the defenders had to be careful. Since West had no entry to her long hearts, she had to duck this trick and hope her partner had a quick entry plus one more heart to get back to the winners in her hand. And so it materialized. Declarer won the heart Queen in dummy and immediately took a successful spade finesse, winning the Queen. He continued with the diamond 10 and, with the King conveniently located in the West hand, he was able to run 5 diamond tricks. Alas, he then ran out

of steam and when he had to switch to clubs, East won the first trick with the Ace and promptly returned his last heart to defeat the contract. Technically, declarer erred when he failed to play the heart Queen from the dummy at trick one. His best chance on this deal was that West held all the outstanding high cards (the Aces of hearts and clubs and the King of diamonds) or that West held the diamond King and the hearts were 4-4. These chances would not have prevailed in this case and the contract was doomed so long as the defenders kept their communications open. Questions or comments: email:

KEN MASSON has been playing, teaching and writing about bridge for 35 years. Originally from Dublin, Ireland, Ken has been living in Toronto since 1967. He and his wife and bridge partner, Rosemarie, are now in their third year wintering in Mexico.


El Ojo del Mar / October 2009



n the rock wall shadow of the fake waterfall overhanging the rooftop swimming pool, I read and drink iced tea. It is homemade. Why do manufacturers only make bottled sweet tea? There must be more people than gan sharing their washer with me, myself who like it plain. There is noI washed my laundry at home and where I have to be. Nowhere I would then hung the wet clothes over the rather be. Life does not get any betbars on my windows. I had a great ter than this. It just doesn’t. This is the view of the cemetery. Tropical breezbest. es. I kind of loved it, oddly enough. I am doing the laundry. No, not like I remember a million laundry days my neighbors pounding t-shirts on as I went up and down the scale of rocks in the river. The laundry room is life, depending on how many paintnext to the workout area. My excuse ings I was able to sell on the side of for not working out today is, it is too my numerous day jobs. Before that, damned hot. When it is not so hot, I there was getting used to doing the am sure another excuse will come to laundry at all. Laundry was somemind. Though why I need or want an thing the housekeeper did. Mother excuse is beyond me. I am alone up would beg us to clean up our rooms here. Nobody is watching. The voice and gather our laundry neatly in our that says I could lose a few pounds laundry baskets before Edna arrived. is Monkey Mind, the inner critic who Why? We wondered. We thought it gets after me for my the housekeepGradually I came to was faults and failings er’s job to clean our with the tenacity see laundromats as rooms, and to do of Dog, the Bounty laundry. That heavens of calm, where our Hunter. is how much we When the own- I had a kind of forced knew. Nothing. ers of my condo meditation time out. What a shock came home in high when my first husseason, I moved to a band freaked comhovel on the other side of the tunnel. pletely out that I took the laundry and The hovel was fully furnished. It had ironing to Edna. He caught me coming termites, mice, mold, carbon monoxhome one day with fresh shirts hangide from the Libramiento, breaking ing from a tension rope I had strung glass outside, loud cars, mariachi statup in the back of my new Impala. Jeic, no hot water in the kitchen, and a sus. Whose life is this? I always wantshower that leaked all over the floor, ed to be a painter and a writer. Here no matter what. I’m just saying. It was I was getting in trouble for spending cheap. It was real. Wasn’t this what I money on having lovely Edna do the was looking for, on my Mexico advenlaundry, when I didn’t really want the ture? duties and responsibilities of being a Doing the laundry was a profile in wife in the first place. I was a sociopath courage. I walked with a cane then, as of laundry. I did not understand his I recuperated from a bad fall. Watch strong feelings of what a wife should those wet tiles! They are slippery. Valbe, and what a wife should do. larta’s cobblestones and uneven sideWhen laundromats entered my walks, well, pay attention. I hobbled to life, I hated them. I hated to have to the lavanderia, then I hobbled down have enough quarters, and to have to the beach to gaze at the ocean and to bring soap, or buy it in those little work on my tan while my clothes were boxes out of a steel dispenser bolted being washed and dried. to the wall, out of which you could Once the upstairs neighbors bejust as easily buy bleach or fabric soft-

ener by mistake. Gradually I came to see laundromats as heavens of calm, where I had a kind of forced meditation time out. In Santa Fe, my laundromat was next to a Whole Earth yuppie store that served bagels and lox and fresh orange juice, for a price. That was the best. Go on a Sunday morning, put your clothes in, amble over for a toasted bagel, read the paper. That was the best. Until now, when I can instead sit in a turquoise pool and count my blessings. I enjoy my life, and the universe takes care of me. Think nice thoughts.

“CONSUELO” lives in Puerto Vallarta. Originally from Santa Fe, NM, she is a painter, writer and seasoned world-traveler. jart@live. com

Saw you in the Ojo




hy do well-educated, intelligent Liberals and Conservatives disagree so vehemently? Some Conservatives see Liberals as naïve, idealistic, impractical, tree-hugging degenerates. Many Liberals view Conservatives as heartless, backwardlooking, self-serving evil-doers. Professor George Lakoff suggests that the model of the family is appropriate for analyzing political philosophies, because people generally think of the nation as a family. For Liberals, the ideal family or government is one that is run on the nurturing parent model. This model assumes that humans are born good


and that goodness must be maintained. For Conservatives, the ideal family or government is run on the stern parent model which assumes that humans are born neutral and must be made good and strength-

El Ojo del Mar / October 2009

ened through discipline, responsibilness, bodily functions, hygiene, ity, accountability, and self-reliance, body piercing, tattoos, profanity, so that they can compete on their drug abuse, and control of carnality own in the dangerous world. Libincluding nudity, masturbation, proerals may view this model as apmiscuity, homosexuality, polygamy, proaching abusive and stiand incest. fling self-expression and These last three morale values creativity. are consistent with the Conservative Professor Jonathan stern parent model which focuses Haidt suggests that on discipline, responsibility, and less political philosophies can be tolerance of actions contrary to sounderstood by analyzing five cietal norms and rules, such as pouniversal basic moral values. litical protests, bizarre behavior, civil First is avoiding harm to othdisobedience, flag burning, teen sex, ers and caring for those in and same-sex marriage. need of help. This value A very large on-line survey is reencompasses compasvealing that people who identify sion, nurturing, emthemselves as “Conservative” tend to pathy, forgiveness, weigh the five values about equally charity, and tolerance in making moral judgments. The of self expression, dis“Moderates” give significantly more sent, and nonconforimportance to harm avoidance and mity. Second is fairness fairness than to the other three: loyand ensuring that each person alty, respect for authority, and purity. is treated equally, especially in matThe self-identified “Liberals” place ters of law, justice, lifestyle choices, even more weight on avoiding harm and economic opand fairness, less portunity. This value loyalty, and alElders appear to be on abhors cheating and most completely Conservative discount respect taking unfair advan- more tage of weaker indi- than younger people. for authority and viduals. These two purity. However, values are basic to Younger groups tend some vegetarian the nurturing parent to be more tolerant of Liberals condemn model. eating as improtest, self expres- meat These first two pure. moral values appear sion, and alternative Elders appear to explain Liberalism lifestyles. to be more Conserfairly well. Of course, vative than youngConservatives are er people. Younger also for fairness and against harming groups tend to be more tolerant of others, but some of their positions, protest, self expression, and alternasuch as opposition to same sex martive lifestyles. This doesn’t necessarriage or civil disobedience, cannot ily mean that as people age, they bebe explained using only these two come more Conservative. However, moral concepts. Conservative posithreatening life experiences, such as tions draw upon three additional the terrorist attack on 9/11, having moral values. one’s children bused into an inferior The third moral value is loyalty to inner city school, or seeing the world one’s group, family, clan, hometown, change very rapidly, can shift people political party, race, religion, gento a more Conservative perspective. der, or, perhaps most importantly, Such experiences can lead to backcountry. This covers such things as lashes against change and to adheravoidance of shaming your group, ence to fundamentalist religious poupholding group norms, defending sitions. the group, and protecting the honor The models based on parental of the group. Fourth is respect for aufamily/governmental style and five thority and its laws, rules, and social basic moral values provide a useful norms. This leads to conformity, conframework for understanding Control of self-expression and dissent, as servatism and Liberalism. It helps us well as adherence to the status quo. understand our own political ideolThe authority respected might be ogy and that of others who may disone’s parents, the rule of law, governagree with us. We should all rememment and its symbols, religious leadber that just because they disagree ers and religious doctrine, as well as with us, Liberals are not “hopelessly bosses, teachers, and judges. naïve, idealistic degenerates” and Haidt’s fifth moral value, purity, Conservatives are not “heartless, selfinvolves decency, sanctity, sacredserving evil-doers.”

Saw you in the Ojo


Boomers in Paradise: Living in Puerto Vallarta By Robert Nelson 162 pages $13.99 from A Review by James Tipton


obert Nelson’s Boomers in Paradise: Living in Puerto Vallarta, profiles fourteen “baby boomers” who now reside in Puerto Vallarta. The book, though, will be of interest to any expatriate (or would-be expatriate) whether or not they live in Vallarta. Nelson and his wife Jan have lived in the “Jewel of the Mexican Riviera” for six years. As they eased themselves into local life, they discovered that even though they were only fifty-nine when they moved to Vallarta, many permanent expatriates were younger, in some cases much younger. “Jan and I, born in 1943, were considered the older siblings of the baby boomer generation.” Baby boomers are those born between 1946 (immediately after World War II) and 1964 (when the use of the birth control pill became widespread), and they are “over seventy-eight million strong.” As Robert and Jan “began to know more people, we could see a major lifestyle trend emerging: baby boomers were not waiting for retirement to enjoy paradise. As always, the highly independent, adventurous boomers wanted what they wanted, now.” Baby boomers were not “willing to settle for the ordinary.” For most of them, living in Vallarta necessarily means working in Vallarta. Regarding the options for working,


Cynthia Sams, one of those profiled, says, “Basically you have time-share, real estate, or you can start your own business.” Puerto Vallarta has changed a lot since 2000 when it “had roughly fifty million dollars in resort real estate sales” and when there were “rarely homes selling for more than one million dollars and few large real estate developers.” Less than a decade later, in 2007, “there was more than five hundred million dollars in resort real estate sales, with condos selling for over two million dollars and homes in excess of five million dollars. There were more than one hundred developments spread out around Banderas Bay, allowing Puerto Vallarta to lead in sales volume for resort real estate in Mexico, ahead of major markets such as Los Cabos, Acapulco, and Cancun.” Nelson profiles fourteen individuals, single, married, widowed, or with “committed partners.” With the excep-

El Ojo del Mar / October 2009

tion of two couples who are indeed about living in Vallarta is the number actually “retired,” all of those profiled of simple things that you can do, like in Boomers in Paradise work in Valwatching a sunset or walking on the larta, or near Vallarta, usually in real beach in the moonlight or watching estate but also in hotels, publishing, the whales in the bay…. God really and in health and body care. Most did a good job with this place.’” continue to love Vallarta but likewise In these profiles you’ll also meet most are concerned about the drafifty-year-old Canadian John Youden matic changes that have taken place who, in less than twenty years, built in their beloved town as it has turned “a Puerto Vallarta publishing empire.” into a city, and a very busy (and polThose publications include Vallarta luted) one at that. Retired commitLifestyles, Costa Vallarta, Vallarta Real ted partners Cynthia Sams and Andre Estate Guide, and Vallarta Nautica. Riviéra “have begun thinking about Back in the late 1980s, John develmoving to a smaller town more like oped the first multi-listing service Vallarta used to be.” for the Vallarta real estate industry. Debra Old, a widow, grew up on a Soon after, to promote Vallarta, John Saskatchewan prairie farm. She and developed the luxurious magazine her husband Jim began vacationing in that most people who live in or have Vallarta in 1982, and when she found visited Vallarta are familiar with, Valherself widowed and still only in her larta Lifestyles, “a spectacularly sucmid-forties, in 2000 Deb moved to cessful glossy publication that has Vallarta, “based only on an emotional grown to over three hundred pages connection she had developed over today.” John estimates as many as the years they had twenty thousand exbeen coming to PV Most continue to pats live in Vallarta, on vacation.” Deb “which would make bought a house in love Vallarta but, like- it the second largest the Las Gaviotas wise, most are con- concentration of exsection, but in very in Mexico, cerned about the dra- patriates recent years she just behind the Lake changes that Chapala area south has realized Val- matic larta is a very dif- have taken place in of Guadalajara.” ferent place from Well, there you beloved town have it. A few samwhen she moved their there eight years as it has turned into a plings out of some of ago: “She rememthe profiles in Boomcity. bers how quiet it ers in Paradise. So was with far fewer stretch out on your cars, a simpler life, and not nearly as beach lounge under your umbrella many expats.” on Playa de los Muertos in Vallarta Another concern, shared by some with a cool drink in one hand and in others in the book, and also shared the other…Boomers in Paradise. by Deb’s Mexican friends: Vallarta is But, you say, you’re still back in “the worst city in Mexico to drive in, sunny Saskatchewan? Well, curl up even worse than Mexico City.” Deb’s by the fire in that gold-trimmed black solution? On one of her visits to San bikini you bought on your last trip Sebastian del Oeste, a little mining vilto the “Jewel of the Mexican Riviera,” lage east of Puerto Vallarta and up in open up Boomers in Paradise: Living the mountains, she fell in love with a in Puerto Vallarta, and begin to… charming old hacienda, bought it (“a dream. major fixer-upper”), and she has been busy ever since, “Bringing it up to the quality level of a first-class bed and breakfast.” Hacienda Esperanza de la JIM TIPTON is a forGalera opened its doors on January mer Poet Laureate of 1, 2008. the state of Colorado. Charlie Rondot, a Canadian who He has published several books of now sells real estate for Coldwell Bankpoetry and has sold dozens of arer, has “‘really noticed the change in ticles to magazines in the US. His traffic congestion. Parking downtown collections of poetry include Letis also a problem, even with the new ters from a Stranger (1998)— winparking garages. But, hey, let’s face it. ner of the Colorado Book Award in This isn’t a small town anymore; it’s Poetry. Jim lived in Puerto Vallarta rapidly evolving into a large, modfor several years. ern city.’” But Charlie still loves the city: “‘The really cool thing, though,

Saw you in the Ojo


MANZANILLO—Information Please! By Mariana Llamas-Cendon


s Americans, we rely on the net to do, basically, everything. We pay our bills, make appointments, check the weather, shop for anything you can think of –from clothing, to flight tickets to car insurance-, look for a job, search for a doctor or hospital, and even get a date! Unfortunately, south of our border, the web isn’t as developed as we are used to, and Manzanillo is a very good example. Manzanillo has grown tremendously in the last few years: from a little coastal town to a beach resort, in which nowadays you can find a WalMart, Starbucks Coffee shop and a Burger King, but regard-


ing other services whether a mechanic, electrician or a beauty parlor, one has two choices: The phone book or the neighbor. The problem with both resources is that they are not always up-to-date or they cannot provide information on the best choices available to us. The British-Canadian Ian Rumford and the Brit Steve Jackson, both current residents of Manzanillo and who worked in the tourism industry for many years, were two victims of this situation regarding the unavailability of everyday information. “We cannot find anything. You can ask anybody anything. Even if it is next door, they wouldn’t know was

El Ojo del Mar / October 2009

there. Simple things like a mechanic,” Rumford said. Ian Rumford and Steve Ian Rumford said. “You ask locals for Jackson are very clear that they are something you can think about off doing this to help residents and the top of your head and nobody visitors of Manzanillo avoid finding knows where to get it done and you themselves lost in paradise. know they’re here, it’s somewhere, The project started back in Noand somebody knows something.” vember 2008, but it had to be put off Hence, the online service direcafter Ian Rumford’s father underwent tory called was open-heart surgery. It was taken up born to help locals and visitors alike again in March this year, and so far it to find, in English or Spanish, all kinds has received more than 14,000 hits of services from real state agents to and counting. doctors that are professional. Since Manzanillo Sun aims to “We thought about making some provide the best source of informasort directory where people can find tion, the local charities could not be things or tourist inleft aside: There is a section on the webformation there,” Rumford said. was born to help lo- page dedicated to As a website, them, in which cals and visitors alike ers can also donate is not alone. There to find, in English or directly. are other electronic Spanish, services from Ian Rumford and pages dedicated to Steve Jackson pointthis beach resort, real estate agents to ed out that their lack such as Gomanof Spanish has been doctors. and a big obstacle, since it is hard to commuAlthough the former one is a “hub” nicate with their clients. news webpage that also includes a “We can only do so much… many plain directory on services like vatimes the hotels don’t have someone cation rentals and real state agents that speaks English,” Steve Jackson that isn’t up-to-date, the latest one said. has valuable information and reSo at this moment they are hiring sources regarding consular and cusSpanish-speaking or bilingual inditoms procedures, immigration laws viduals to help them improve the serand healthcare issues for foreigners vices that Manzanillo needs to better to mention a few. They are both in serve their residents and visitors. English, so unless locals are able to understand the language, they are excluded. On the other hand, most local online listings are free classified pages, MARIANA LLAMASso there aren’t real filters on the reliCENDON is a bilingual ability of who can post an ad. This is journalist, who lives what makes difand works in between ferent from the rest, since it is proven California and Mexico. She that the businesses listed are wellworked as a Managing Editor established; and second, getting a for Mi Estrella, the bilingual directory listing isn’t free –though publication of the Ventura the yearly fee is ridiculously low- but County Star newspaper, and Life that is an effective way of keeping and Style Editor for La Opinion scammers away. in Los Angeles. She spends a lot “Those people who are trying to of time in Manzanillo, a place scam others may not want to pay,” she loves.


The Revolution


t used to be that laadies were ladies and d men opened doors, carried things and fixed your car. It used to be that in exchange for a home-cooked meal, a little kissy-face and a few feelies, you could get your car washed, screens fixed and lawn mowed. That was for one meal! It’s difficult to even visualize that exchange rate, today! We all knew then that men wanted to do IT and, would do almost anything on the flimsiest hope of getting IT. At that time there was a myth abroad in the land that women didn’t want to do IT, but, if you married her, she’d give in from time to time and let you have IT. At that time there were two choices:

get married until you g died or be the brunt d of speculation for the o town gossips as well as to taking a lo lot of guff off your mom. The stigma of divorce was like having a bad tattoo. The revolution came with the invention of the Pill and discovery of the orgasm. Shortly on the heels of this was the Make Love Not War movement, which, although neither new nor novel enjoyed an enthusiastic ground wave of popularity, especially by the young. Terminal blows to the old system came with the publication of The Joy of Sex and Our Bodies, Ourselves. Women with hand mirrors discovered what had been so attractive

It has been almost fifty years since all those years. the Great Revolution and the changes Bedside tables sprouted candles. in attitudes have left no rules on the Body oils were flavored with cocoplaying field. How does one traverse nut and mango. Ceilings got mirthe minefield of mixed mores and rored, edible panties became the latmuddled messages est fast food and Playboy and Hustler The revolution came to reach that far distant shore of a comtook their place in the stands next to with the invention of patible and fulfilling Good Housekeep- the Pill and discovery relationship? Hopefully, with a ing and Field and of the orgasm. little sense of humor Stream. The nation and the good manhad a new hobby. ners our mamas drilled into us, we Foreplay was rampant and, like at can make it. The revolution may have Baskin Robbins, there was suddenly a shaken our foundations but also gave plethora of choices. us the opportunity to find that unique The cat was out of the bag, the relationship that is just right. Sure, you toothpaste out of the tube. It was the may kiss a frog or two but with a little end of an era when marriages lasted effort, in time, you will find that prince forever, Hershey Bars cost a dime, or princess who figures you are the business was conducted on a handanswer to just what they have been shake and people who took an oath looking for. told the truth. Gawd! What to do? Women wanted IT? Instead of the old game of prey and predator, it was like the fish shopLEA AMENT was ping for a hook, the deer holding a a business consultant rifle. Some men didn’t know what to for several medical do. The seductive lines they had carebusinesses in the US fully practiced were as out of style as for many years. She has lived in girdles and buggy whips. Should they Mexico for almost a decade. still open doors? Who picked up the check?

Saw you in the Ojo


By Neil McKinnon


ecause my marriage my accident.” had been cut short I For the first was left with no purtime I noticed pose. I marched in one spot parthat she sat in a alyzed by the notion that I was wheelchair. “What destined to perform the same happened?” I asked. role for the world as pornogra“An unfortunate phy does for a eunuch. mishap. You’re probThe despondency did not ably not interested.” last long. Deep inside I knew “Au contraire,” I anthat, no matter how overswered. Sometimes, cast the horizon, it when I anticipate an was impossible for amorous encounter, someone with my French expressions intellectual attricome unbidden to my butes to be simply another raindrop lips. in the drizzle of human medioc“Very well, I’ll tell you but you rity. My good nature prevailed and I must promise not to castigate me.” quickly recovered most of my spar“I promise,” I said. kling personality. She sighed. “It all started when my The abrasions on my ego did not church held a bingo to raise funds to heal as easily as those on my spirit buy our priest, Father Bartholomew, and so one evening I went to the a bus ticket to San Ignacio so that Café Dos Lunas to put salve on the he could visit his ailing sister, Bettina wounds by indulging in one of Don who was feeling poorly as a result of Emilio’s famous dinners. I decided a being constipated for thirty-two days pre-dinner brandy without relief.” Her body trembled “Go on,” I said. would be the perfect lubricant to as if she was experi- “Did he make the mitigate the frictrip?” tion remaining in encing a small earth“Oh yes, we raised my soul and I was quake. After a few mo- enough money for savoring the first ticket. Father ments she relaxed and the biting taste when Bartholomew went someone behind smiled. “They can be to San Ignacio and me said, “Pardon he was a great comintense,” she said. me. Are you dinfort to his sister being alone?” cause he took along The voice soared and dipped like a jar of special salsa made by Señora a tinkling bell and it penetrated my Sanchez. The señora’s salsa is famous somber mood the way thrown pebfor bringing relief to those who suffer bles perforate the surface of a pond. I the same affliction as Bettina. Yes, the turned and there she was: dark hair in bingo was a success. It was the inciringlets, an oval face with a complexdent during the bingo that affected ion the color of ripe olives and eyes me.” so hypnotic I couldn’t turn away. “Tell me,” I said. I summoned my wits. “Yes, I am. “The final game was played for a Would you care to join me?” prize coveted by everyone—a chickShe smiled. “It’s easier for you to en donated by Señora Rodriquez— join me?” not any chicken but one of the SeI hastened to her table and introñora’s prize hens which are known duced myself. She held out her hand. everywhere for laying the most, the “My name is Rosella,” she said. “But biggest and the tastiest eggs.” I’ve been called many things since “What happened?” I asked again.


El Ojo del Mar / October 2009

“I won! I was so excited I jumped to my feet and shouted, BINGO! My shout startled the chicken which had been dozing on the lap of Señora Rodriguez. It flew up and perched on the bingo board that is kept to record the progress of the game and which was suspended above where I was sitting. The weight of the chicken caused the bingo board to topple and it fell hitting me simultaneously on the back and on my head.” “Did you suffer a spinal injury?” “Yes but Dr. Alvarez says the injury is temporary. I will soon be able to leave my wheelchair.” “You are lucky,” I said. “It’s not just the spinal injury,” she continued. “As I mentioned, the bingo board also hit my head and ever since that evening I’ve suffered from spontaneous orgasms. They come without warning, sometimes when I am least inclined to want one.” Suddenly her eyes rolled so the pupils were not visible and her lips drew back in the manner of a dog defending its dinner. “Oh my God … I’m having one now.” Then she shouted for the entire restaurant to hear, “BINGO! BINGO! BINGO!” Her body trembled as if she were experiencing a small earthquake. After a few moments she relaxed and smiled. “They can be intense,” she said. “It would appear so,” I replied. “The affliction is bad enough,” she continued, “but it has also led to social pain. My tendency to shake and cry, ‘Bingo,’ has caused my neighbors to believe that the devil has gained possession of me. I have become a social pariah.” “You mean you have no friends?” “No, not since I attended the funeral of Señor Ramon Hernandez. The poor man died after ingesting an entire bottle of salsa made by Señora Sanchez. He never recovered after rushing to relieve himself more than seventeen times in one afternoon. It was during the service as Father Bartholomew was commending the soul of Señor Hernandez to heaven that I was unable to contain myself. I jumped up and shouted, ‘Bingo.’ That, by itself, was bad enough but the interruption was also lengthy as I am frequently multi-orgasmic.” “You poor thing,” I said. “Your plight has touched me.” And indeed it had. To have the most intense joy one can experience lead to isolation is a terrible form of social disease. “Have you tried medication?” I asked. “Dr. Alvarez has tried everything. The episodes sometimes come unin-

vited, but often they are triggered by an idea.” “What kind of idea?” “It embarrasses me but when I saw you I thought, Holy Mother of Saints, I wouldn’t mind if he parked his huaraches under my bed. And like that, it happened. I’ve tried but I can’t control my mind. I even decided to become a nun but Father Bartholomew talked me out of it. He said that until I was able to train my brainchildren to wear loose underwear, I would be a distraction in the convent.” Oh no, I thought, I’m falling in love again. By the time we had eaten Don Emilio’s flan and ingested after-dinner liqueurs, a delicious longing was roosting on every nerve. I reveled in the same bloated feeling of well-being that affects all good Samaritans, and in my naiveté I called it love. Our relationship was difficult. Rosella yelled, “Bingo,” at the most inopportune times and always became detached from what I was saying during the entire time of her ecstasy. I found this disconcerting as sometimes it seemed that the most banal words would cause her eyes to roll and spittle to appear in the corner of her mouth. At other times my most intense foreplay produced no reaction whatsoever. I occasionally tried shouting, “Bingo,” myself but she did not respond and seemed to resent my encouragement. Nevertheless, she soon moved in with me and she brought the chicken which she had named Max. “No harm must come to Max,” Rosella said. “She’s not an ordinary chicken.” I acquiesced although I frequently felt like turning Max into chicken soup, particularly when she perched on my back and pecked at my buttocks while I endeavored to devote my entire attention to Rosella’s erotic needs.

NEIL McKINNON is an archeologist whose book Tuckahoe Slidebottle has won several awards for humor in Canada. Has sold dozens of articles to magazines in the US and Canada.

A NEW LEASE—on Life! By Judit Rajhathy, B.A., RNCP, D.Ac.

To B or not to B – that is the question!


ou complain about volunteers had plasma digestive disturB12 levels in the “low norbances and mal” range—which, for chronic fatigue. many people can be detriAfter your workmental, yet often not treatout you are far from ed, since ‘low normal’ is energized—you are often considered ‘normal’! even more tired. You Hence, blood levels are not feel like you are just always the best way of deternot getting enough mining whether one needs air, feel weak and supplementation—listing experience numbsymptoms might be a betness and tingling in ter way. your hands and feet. Some other symptoms of The worst part, however, is not being B12 deficiency include: disorientaable to remember anything and you tion, irritability, urinary or fecal infeel an ongoing anxiety—worrying continence, impotence, abnormal about the least gait, muscle aches, Why is B12 defi- sore mouth and/or little thing. Often you even feel de- ciency such a common tongue, loss of appressed, lethargic. petite, personality You have ruled problem for many se- changes, paranoia out all possible pa- niors in particular? and quite often, dethology as well as mentia, especially hidden food sen- Sometimes as we age, in older individuals. sitivities which can our absorption of nu- So what would normimic many dis- trients becomes im- mally be a simple fix eases. Your doctor can turn into a very cannot find a thing paired. serious set of sympwrong with you, toms! is recommending anti-anxiety and Addressing and correcting this anti-depressant drugs, and has nedeficiency can often help people reglected to check for B12 deficiency. sume full and normal lives. According to an ongoing study Why is B12 deficiency such a (Framingham Offspring Study) recommon problem for many seniors searchers found that 39% of 3,000 in particular? Sometimes as we age

our absorption of nutrients becomes impaired. This could arise from several factors, one of these being an overgrowth of intestinal flora, or lack of intrinsic factor in the stomach. Another factor is not getting enough from the diet—often people fall into the ‘tea and toast’ syndrome which does not include foods that contain high amounts of B12—pulses, eggs, dairy, fish, and meats. This is also why vegans have to be careful to supplement with B12. The best way to supplement this important nutrient is with 1. injectibles, 2. sublingual tablets, 3. nasal gel and now some companies put out B12 patches that stick to skin rather than oral supplementation since many gastrointestinal tracts cannot absorb B12 properly. Most holistic doctors in the north will try what is known as a loading dose. They inject 1ml once a day for two weeks and then reduce to three times a week, and slowly reduce again until a comfortable dose is found, contrary to a more conventional approach which would entail only one shot every month—a bit of a joke! B12 is water soluble and does not stay in the body and as a result it

is very difficult to overdose. One of the first signs of success is more energy and clearer thinking. And over time many of the other symptoms of deficiency begin to resolve. With this in mind, make sure you are also taking a high potency B complex along with your multi-vitamin, especially if you are prone to some of the symptoms listed above. And once you are topped up, full of energy, I’ll see you at the gym! (Judit is the owner of Change of Pace Fitness Center and is the author of the Canadian best-seller Free to Fly: A Journey Toward Wellness.)

JUDIT is the ownermanager of Change of Pace Fitness Center and is the author of the Canadian best-seller Free to Fly: A Journey Toward Wellness. The book may be purchased from

Saw you in the Ojo




agnicide is of his knowldefined as edge and the killing the depth and of a prominent acuity of his inperson, usually, sights are almost though not albeyond belief. ways, by an obProust could write with scure one anxious to have dazzling brilliance on such diverse his or her brief fling with fame. Lee topics as art, music, architecture, hisHarvey Oswald and James Earl Ray, tory, society and the sexual mores of a pair of paradigmatic losers, may or his day. What is more astonishing is may not have killed John Kennedy that Proust was as emotionally immaand Martin Luther King. John Wilkes ture as he was intellectually gifted. Booth, a vainglorious and self-deludMaurice Sachs, who knew him well, ed actor, did kill Abraham Lincoln. describes him as “sort of a monster In literature, we have the spectachild, whose mind had all the expericle of a magnicide that kills not perences of a man, but whose soul was sons but reputations. Tolstoy claimed ten years old.” Shakespeare was derived His sexual orienta- fromProust overrated and Mary France’s upwas predomi- per bourgeoisie. McCarthy charac- tion terized Lillian Hell- nantly gay though he His father was a man as “a bad writer, famous doctor a dishonest writer,” did have relationships who did much to adding that “every with some highly de- save Europe from word she writes is a cholera epidema lie, including ‘and’ sirable women. ic. His mother was and ‘the.’’’ the daughter of a I have no such divided feelings wealthy stockbroker. Though Proust when I contemplate attacks on Marwas baptized into his father’s Cathocel Proust. I consider Proust not only lic faith, he was Jewish on his moththe greatest writer of all time but er’s side. pretty close to the greatest genius Throughout the vast body of of all time. Though he was in poor Proust’s work there is a consistent fohealth his entire life and died at the cus on two cultures: the Jewish and relatively early age of 51, the breadth the homosexual. He was, as noted,


El Ojo del Mar / October 2009

half-Jewish and wrote extensively about the role of Jews in French society, particularly during the tense period of the Dreyfus case. His sexual orientation was predominantly gay though he did have relationships with some highly desirable women. One was the celebrated courtesan Laure Hayman, who would regularly visit Proust in his famed cork-lined room. On the gay side, Proust practiced both activism and voyeurism. He had a financial interest in a male brothel. Returning to the theme of magnicide, a singularly witless gutter attack on Proust was mounted by the English critic Andrew Sinclair in The London Times. Commenting on what he perceives as Proust’s lack of qualification to produce a major literary work, Sinclair writes that “Proust never worked for a living, never married, never had children, never understood many of the things which occupy most people’s lives. He spent his latter years in a cork-lined room, writing and revising and sleeping, leaving only at night to go to grand occasions or male brothels. Such a life is not exactly good material for discovering wisdom.” This has to be the stupidest critique ever written. Does Sinclair believe that Proust would have been a better writer if he had held a nine to five job and presided over an Ozzie and Harriett household? It is precisely because Proust did have the financial independence to lie in bed all day working on his novel and then go out to grand social functions and, yes, male brothels, that he was able to acquire the material that went into his masterwork. Beneath his decadent exterior Proust had a hard core of integrity and courage. During the Dreyfus case, Proust fell out with many of the aristocrats he had so carefully cultivated when he became an ardent advocate of the wrongfully accused officer. Some may argue that, being half-Jewish, Proust didn’t have much choice in the matter. This is not the case. Such full Jews as the publisher Arthur Meyer took the anti-Dreyfus side: Proust a baptized Christian, could easily have done the same. Proust showed physical courage when he challenged the scurrilous journalist Jean Lorrain to a duel. Lorrain had suggested in a newspaper article that there was a sexual relationship between Proust and Lucien Daudet, son of the novelist Alphonse Daudet. Despite his preferences,

Proust was anything but a gay rights crusader. He ridiculed homosexuals in all his works and almost invariably made them into figures of fun. This hypocrisy about his sexuality is one of Proust’s less admirable qualities. In Remembrance of Things Past there is a narrator called Marcel and based upon himself, who is throughout depicted as heterosexual. The fictive Marcel has a mistress called Albertine, said by Proust scholars to be based on one of Proust’s male lovers. So Proust was outraged by Lorrain’s innuendo, which, incidentally, happened to be true. In the early morning of February 6, 1897, they faced off with pistols in the Bois de Meudon. Both missed. I’ll conclude these comments relating an incident in which my admiration for Proust turned out to be the cause of domestic discord. A few years back my wife and I were in Paris. I was gathering material for a talk and slide show to be titled “The Paris of Marcel Proust” in which I would show transparencies relating to Proust’s life and career. One port of call was the Bois de Meudon, southwest of Paris, where Proust and Lorrain fought their duel. We went out there on a chilly, drizzling May afternoon and to make things worse, I got fouled up with the map and took a wrong turn. By the time we reached the Tour de Villebon, where the duel was fought, we had been shlepping interminably through the mud on this bone-chilling day. My wife, who is Mexican, was getting increasingly annoyed. Finally she turned on me in complete exasperation and said: “Why couldn’t that pinche Proust have fought his duel in one of those nice Paris parks instead of coming out to this God-forsaken place?” To that, I must confess, I had no snappy comeback.

JIM TUCK was the Mexico editor for Fedor’s Travel Guide for many years. He has written more than 2000 magazine articles and has published several well-known books of non-fiction, including John Reed and Pancho Villa.



ven if you are not a deing and breeding season the males ale es voted birdwatcher, when develop a red sac under their lower owe er you are along the coastmandible, which they can inflate like e line and look up into the skies, you a balloon and display towards the e might wonder “what in the heck is sky, while vigorously clapping their that”? Well, “that” is a Magnificent beaks and flapping their wings, hopFrigatebird, one of the five species of ing to attract the attention of flying frigate birds, all of them found navifemales that are inspecting nesting ting gating the tropics. Adult males are sites and choosing a mate. black, over a meter long and with a At this time males can be quite uite wingspan of about aggressive, trying ying 2.5 meters. Adult festeal sticks or Sometimes they are to males have a white branches from next breast. Young birds able to soar without door neighbors in also have a white flapping their wings a order to build the breast and white most successful single time for hours, nest. Even in flight head. Their pre-historic and just glide with the they chase one anshape and scissorother to take away like tail, plus the abil- wind for kilometer af- branches for their ity to soar gracefully ter kilometer. nests. They have and seemingly forbeen known to ever, gives the Magnificent Frigatesteal the entire nest of smaller birds. bird a certain air of elegance. SomeThe Magnificent Frigatebird nests times they are able to soar without on the upper branches of trees and flapping their wings a single time for shrubs on off-shore islands along the hours, and just glide with the wind Pacific Coast of Mexico. for kilometer after kilometer. ReBoth parents incubate the single searchers have speculated they stay egg, and one is always with the new aloft for a week at a time. They have chick for the first 4-6 weeks of its life the largest wingspan to body weight – other frigatebirds in the colony will ratio of any bird. kill and eat an unprotected chick. It The five species of frigatebird are seems that the males do not have separated primarily by their range, much interest in home life (typical and the areas in which they nest. All seamen) – they depart the nest about are seasonally monogamous, and 3 months after the chick is hatched nest in colonies. During the nestand don’t return. The females con-

feed t tinue to fee ee ed th the he yo yyoung ung un g fo for ov for over er a and, therefore therefore, only breed everyy yyear and other year. The males, however, are available for mating every year. Although they are sea-going birds and mainly spend their time soaring over the ocean, they are also seen gliding inland. While fish is their main food, they are not adapted to dive into the water for fish. Their wings and plumage are not designed to get soaked, and being such a big species with a huge wingspan, if they end up in the water, they are not able to take off again and will drown. In fact, they have trouble taking off from anything but a high perch – a branch, a rock, a ship railing. Being great gliders, however, they will swoop down to the surface of the water to pluck fish that are feeding on insects or being pursued by tuna or dolphins. Magnificent Frigatebirds are also known as Man-of-War birds or Pirates because of their frequent attacks on other marine birds, particularly bobbies, gulls and terns, forcing them to give up their food, which the Frig-

atebird snatches from mid-air as it falls. They also prey on the eggs and chicks of other nesting sea birds, including their own species. They are one of the primary predators of baby marine turtles during their race to the sea after hatching. They are adept at catching pieces of fish thrown up in the air for them by fisherman or tourists. So, while you’re walking along the shore and spot a Magnificent Frigatebird, take out that baggie full of fish pieces, and see if you can throw one high enough to attract its attention. Alex Martinez is a local conservationist.

ALEX MARTINEZ is a conservationist and bilingual guide who has been leading tours for over 15 years, and has introduced hundreds of birders to their first wonders from the neo-tropics. Also leads other related eco-tours, such as whale-watching and turtle camps.

Saw you in the Ojo



The Treasure Of The Sierra Madre


ohn Huston was drawn to stories that dealt with the human drama of men at odds with the world, with others, and with themselves. He found these themes in B. Traven’s novel, The Treasure of the Sierra Madre, a powerful morality tale about greed and were tough on actors and crew crew, who riches, which traces the adventures of were used to the comforts of Hollythree down-and-outs who band towood. “John wanted everything pergether to search for gold in the wilds fect,” said his good friend but a misof Mexico. erable Humphrey Bogart afterwards. The film is one of Huston’s greatest, “I have to admire him for that but it earning the then 42-year-old director was plenty rough on our troupe. If two Academy Awards for Best Screenwe could get to a location site withplay and Best Director. Perhaps more out fording a couple of streams and gratifying was casting and directing walking through rattlesnake-infested his father, Walter Huston, in the role of areas in the scorching sun, then it Howard, the grizzly old timer. Walter’s wasn’t quite right. We got to calling superlative performance also secured him “Hard-Way Husan Academy Award A local newspaper ton.” for Best Supporting memActor. soon protested, claim- berAnother of the cast had John Huston was one of the new ing the movie would doubts about Huschampions of mo- not fairly reflect Mex- ton’s modus operanfather. Prior tion pictures and a ico. This complaint di—his to the production rising star-director for Warner Broth- caused such a mael- getting underway, ers. He convinced strom that production Walter grumbled: “My son John wants the studio to option the B. Traven novel was halted for two me to do this B. Traven story. It’s a for his fourth film months. good story and a and, after serving in wonderful part, but he wants me to the U.S. Army as a World War II docuplay it without my teeth, and I’ll be mentary filmmaker, completed the darned if I work without them!” John, script. He chose to film the movie on however, won over his father’s objeclocation in the gritty milieu of Mexico, tions. arriving in Tampico on the Gulf Coast If Bogart and fellow crew-memin February of 1947 to begin work. bers were suffering in the hot MexiA local newspaper soon protested, can hardscrabble, Jack Warner was claiming the movie would not fairly anxious about Huston’s independentreflect Mexico. This complaint caused minded ways of making the movie. such a maelstrom that production When he saw the dailies (incoming was halted for two months. It was film), Mr. Warner was put off by the only through the intervention of Husway his stars were being handled and ton’s friends, Miguel Covarrubias and the pitiless tone of the film. “Bogart Diego Rivera (who prevailed on the looked like an unshaven bum, Walter President of Mexico to resolve the imwas toothless and hardly recognizpasse) that production was allowed able, there were no women, no sex, to move forward. and the Mexican bandits were speakThe filming went well but the ing Spanish!” physical conditions—the heat, the The studio moguls were un-acinsects, and the accommodations—


El Ojo del Mar / October 2009

customed to such grim depictions of stories and argued that the Bogart character should be cleaned up and not killed at the end of the picture. Huston, with support from his producer Henry Blake, resisted the highhanded interference and prevailed in turning the toughly-wrought story into a stunning film that, more than 60 years later, has lost none of its energy or import. For the participants, memories of the experience would last a lifetime. When asked in a 1973 interview if he could put one scene from any of his films in a time capsule, Huston answered, “Well, it would have to be my old man dancing in The Treasure of the Sierra. When he does that dance of triumph, the gooseflesh comes out and my hair stands up. It was certainly the finest performance in any picture I’ve ever made.” Huston’s approach to directing actors has been the subject of much debate. Unlike many directors, he was not inclined to orchestrate performances. Huston preferred casting the right actor for each part and letting spontaneity have its moment during a take. “In a given scene,” Huston later explained, “I have an idea what

should happen, but I try not to tell the actors. I think they should follow their own hunches. Sometimes this works exceptionally well. Take Alfonso Bedoya, Gold Hat in Treasure. A delightful man. He looked great for the part, but he didn’t know how to act. My not telling him exactly how things were to be done only confused and frustrated him. There was an uncertainty there that added a dimension of volatility and unpredictability and made him even more terrifying.” On screen, Bedoya ended up uttering a few of cinema’s most memorable lines: “Badges? We ain’t got no badges. We don’t need no badges. I don’t got to show you any stinking badges!” Treasure also afforded Huston the opportunity to play a cameo role for the first time in one of his own films. During the opening scenes showing Dobbs panhandling on the streets of Tampico, it is a white-suited, cigarsmoking John Huston who gives Bogart a few pesos. The scene soon became a popular film clip played at events honoring either man, a playful recognition of the years-long friendship between the famous actor and director.

Saw you in the Ojo




ecently, I was accused by one of our ex-pat matriarchs of “’throwing my breasts on the shoulders of a married man to sexually entice him.” I was very flattered by this false accusation; I had never considered it possible to throw my chest anywhere. But this incident triggered memories of my first prom. I was a freshman and the man of my dreams was Bruce, a junior from another town. After endless discussions with Mother, rules the Geneva Convention hadn’t thought of, a lengthy and confusing lecture about sex, I got approval to accept Bruce’s

invitation. The home-fire coffers were empty; the search for a prom gown and shoes began with my classmates. Eventually, the older sister of my friend, Lynn, agreed I could borrow one of her gowns and matching shoes. The fact that Lynn’s sister was extremely well-endowed never fazed me; I was 14 years old, and going to a Junior Prom! The dress was pale blue. Four crinolines had to be worn to fluff out the mid-calf length skirt, the mid-section was row upon row of tight little pleats and it was strap-

less. Undaunted, I tried on the dress. and hands covering mouths. Let If I pushed my stomach out, I could ‘em eat their hearts out. Bruce had keep it from sliding over my hips to brought me to the Taneytown Junior the floor. Prom! I glanced down at the cavernous Slow dancing to Little Anthony bodice of the dress; only cold air filled and the Imperials was magic. But the space. Half a box of Kleenex later, when the DJ played Jerry Lee Lewis, we made contact. Cotton balls were disaster struck; as I boogied to the stuffed in the toes of the shoes. Still 1 left, my dress moved to the right. 1/2/ sizes too big, but I was ready to It was as if two sink holes had sudattend my first prom. denly materialized. The Kleenex had Princess Di didn’t have as much compressed and was slowly moving help for her wedding as I did, getdown my ribs and toward my back. ting ready that evening. Four friends Bruce, ever the gentleman, made no teased and sprayed my hair. Even if comment until I danced out of my there wasn’t a roll bar in Bruce’s car, shoes. The cotton balls had wedged there would be no chance of a head into the pointy toe of the shoes. It is injury. likely I wasn’t the only girl stuffing We all stared in paper into the front the bathroom mirher dress in the Undaunted, I tried of ror at the “zit” on Ladies Room, but I my chin that had on the dress. If I pushed knew Bruce would tripled in size since my stomach out, I never ask me out the previous night. again. A Band-Aid was too could keep it from slidBecause my obvious, and Clear- ing over my hips to the curfew was midasil didn’t cover it; night, all our wonfloor. Cover Girl delicately derful plans to applied with a putty go to a round of knife was the only recourse. Then the after-prom parties were wiped out. Kleenex and cotton balls were strateBruce was extremely romantic on gically placed and I just knew that I the drive home, his arm around my resembled Jackie O. shoulders; only when he had to shift Bruce looked so handsome in his gears did I repeatedly hit my head on powder blue tuxedo jacket, but the the dashboard. While I was anticipatcummerbund looked a little out of ing our first kiss, the fear that Bruce place down around his hips. As he would attempt to touch the bodice reached toward me to pin my corsage of my dress and find only toilet paper on, I panicked. I knew the front of the dampened the moment. Lips ended gown would not withstand any extra up on chins and noses, and thankfulweight. Bruce blushed, thinking I was ly, the porch light was going off and being modest as I grabbed the coron. sage out of his hand, and pinned it This provided me an excuse to to my purse. slide out of the car, with Bruce quickThe auditorium was decorated ly following. As I moved into his arms with blue and white crepe paper, for a “Good Night” kiss, his hug tightsmall white lights and an archway ened. Even through four crinolines, of toilet paper tissue flowers. As we I felt a bulge against the front of my walked through the archway, I could leg. Though mother had made it clear see heads move toward each other that making contact with specific areas of the male anatomy was dangerous, I held tight to Bruce, glowing with the knowledge that I had actually sexually enticed a man!

GAIL NOTT is the author of a book of humor called Notes from the Loo. She divides her time between Mexico and Tennessee, where she has a turkey farm.


El Ojo del Mar / October 2009


The Ojo Crossword


AIR LINES - AMERICAN AIRLINES Tel: 01-800-904-6000

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BANK INVESTMENT -O&A Tel: (322) 221 1034

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ART GALLERIES - GALERIA VALLARTA Tel: (322) 222-0290 - THE AJIJIC ART HOUSE Tel: (376) 765-5097

- HOSPITAL ANGELES DEL CARMEN Tel: 01 (33) 3813-0042

- BALDERAS Tel: 01 (33) 3810-4859 - SEYMI Tel: 01-800-963-4500 - STROM- WHITE MOVING Tel: (376) 766-4049

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1 Killed 5 Parent groups 9 Swill 13 Hello! 14 Verity 15 Baggage 16 Air (prefix) 17 National capital 18 Rolled chocolate candy brand 19 Perfect aim! 21 Phonograph inventor 23 Part of the eye 24 Slice 25 Preying insect 28 Lunacy 31 Off-Broadway award 32 Street cars 34 Thailand 36 Boston Red __ 37 Ball 38 North northeast 39 Took to court 41 Film maker 43 Rodents 44 Giant wave 46 O.T. prophet 48 Metropolis 49 Posttraumatic stress disorder 50 Uprightly 53 Water God 57 Negative (prefix) 58 Style of Greek column 60 Manner 61 False god graven image 62 UK members 63 Seethe 64 No 65 Districts of ancient Attica 66 Otherwise

1 Replace a striker 2 In__of 3 Duke 4 Fabric softener 5 Begs 6 Melody 7 Past 8 Guards 9 Writers 10 Country in SE Asia 11 Capital of Norway 12 Lowest in rank 14 Believer in god 20 __ Lanka 22 Newsman Rather 24 Dance 25 Green seedless plant 26 Around 27 Vetoes 28 ___ Gras 29 Moses’ mountain 30 St. Nick 33 Wide 35 Tulle 40 Easily molded 41 Insect type 42 Cheap “art” 43 Beam 45 Nix 47 South southeast 49 Aplomb 50 Jainism believer 51 Ruin 52 Brake 53 Proper 54 Cowboy fight 55 Mined metals 56 Your title 59 Miner’s goal

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- CASA BLANCA Tel: (376) 766-1500 - CASA WAFFLE Tel: 225-2936

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HOME APPLIANCES - EL TIO SAM Tel: (322) 2091-599 - USA APPLIANCES Tel: 01.800.821.6202 MEX 1.866.558.4071 USA

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- ARELLANO CORPORATION GROUP Tel: (322) 225-4920 - COLDWELL BANKER - DISCOVER MANZANILLO Tel: (314) 120 3878 - FOR SALE BY OWNER Tel: 01 (33) 3616-0435 - FOR SALE BY OWNER Tel: 315-351-5298 - IMPULSA REAL ESTATE Tel: (+52) 669 913 2745 - LLOYD Tel: (322) 221-1034 - REALTY EXECUTIVES Tel: (011-52) 314-335-1343

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CONSTRUCTION - ARELLANO CORPORATION GROUP Tel: (322) 225-4920 - PISAFIRM Tel: 01-800-5630153 - PRODUCTOS PENNSYLVANIA Tel: 01-800-702-3530

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- DERMATYPE Tel: (322) 209-1232

WATER - TECNO AQUA Tel: 01-800-343-7600

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HOTELS / SUITES - CASA BLANCA Tel: (376) 766-1500 - CIELO ROJO Tel: 31-1258-4155 - COCO CABAÑAS Tel: 01-335-004-2686 - QUINTA DON JOSE Tel: 01-800-700-2223 - LA PERGOLA Tel: 01(314) 333-2265 - MIS AMORES Tels: (376) 766-4640, 4641, 4642

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INSURANCE - LLOYD Tel: 322-221-1034

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Saw you in the Ojo! Saw you in the Ojo




MONTHLY THROUGHOUT THE YEAR - MUJERES AMIGAS LUNCHEONS When: First Wednesday of Each Month Where: El Caribe Restaurant Time: 1:00pm Contact: Candy King 044-314-103-0406, WEEKLY THROUGHOUT THE YEAR - THIRSTY THURSDAYS – MANZAMIGOS Where: To be announced each week – When: 6:00pm Contact: Jack Akers To Join: Linda Breun

Mazatlan Oct. 26 - Nov. 1

Big Game Trolling XVIII World Championship,

Puerto Vallarta Nov. 4 – 8

Marlin and Sailfish Fishing Tournament

Ajijic / Chapala Oct. 31 – Nov. 9

Lakeside Little Theatre “The Mousetrap” by Agatha Christie Tix $150

Sat., Nov. 14, 6:00

Helen Zerefos, Soprano Open Air Dinner / Concert Chapala’s Historic Train Station Tix - $550 (tables of 10) 376-766-1631

Guadalajara Fri. & Sat., Oct. 2-3, 8:30, La Reina Margot Belgrade Dance Troupe Teatro Diana Tix. $250-$700, box office daily, 11-8 or Thurs., Oct. 8, 9:00, Moby Teatro Diana Box office daily, 11-8 or Fri Oct. 9, 9:00 pm, Sarah Brightman Auditorio Telmex Tix - $250-$1900 333-636-5200 333-818-3800 Fri. Oct 16, 9:00, Yanni Auditorio Telmex Tix - $350-$2,250 Box office Mon.- Sat., 11-7 or

English Church Services – Puerto Vallarta Assembly of God 1 de Junio #333, Col. El Calvario, Pitillal, 322-416-3743 Sunday 10:30 AM –English translation Calvary Chapel Pablo Picasso/Diego Rivera #105 (beside La Playa store, just off Ascencio), 322-293-5455 Sunday 10:30 AM - English translation, and 6:30 PM – in English Wednesday 6:30 PM – in English (Bible Study) Centro Cristiano Nuevo Amanecer Sierra Aconagua #111 (next to Bancomer branch on Ascencio), 322-222-3330 Sunday 10:00 AM – English translation Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints Emiliano Zapata #420, 322-209-0592 Sunday 8:00 AM and 12:00 Noon – in Spanish (translators avail.) Sunday 1:00 PM – in English (Sunday School) First Baptist Church Argentina #181 (corner Peru, 1 block north of Malecon), 322-222-1722 Sunday 9:45 AM – in English Iglesia Maria Reina de la Paz Albatros #270, Col. Marina Vallarta,322-2091545 Sunday 11:00 AM - Bilingual Jehovah’s Witnesses Milan #271, Col. Versalles Sunday 7:00 PM – in English Parroquia de la Santa Cruz Aguacate #233 (at Lazaro Cardenas), Old Town, 322-222-0989 Sunday 11:00 – part English

The Ojo Crossword

Oct. 23-Nov 1, Shows 1, 5, 9 pm Cirque Du Soleil: Dralion Explanada Lopez Mateos, 333-813-3800

Parroquia De Nuestra Señora De Guadalupe Miguel Hidalgo #370 (2 blocks E. of City Hall, corner of Independencia, Downtown) 322-222-1326 Saturday 5:00 PM – in English Sunday 10:00 AM – Bilingual The Church at the Santa Barbara Theatre Olas Altas #351, Zona Romantica Sunday 9:30 AM – in English English Church Services – Mazatlan San Judas Tadeo Av. De La Ostra, Col. Sabalo Country Sunday 8:45 AM – in English The Vineyard Church Camaron Sabalo #335, Golden Zona (beside Budget Car Rental) Sunday 9:00 AM – in English


El Ojo del Mar / October 2009

Saw you in the Ojo



El Ojo del Mar / October 2009

El Ojo del Mar  

October Issue