HEALT H AND BEAUT Y
FA C I N G T H E F U T U R E JULIETTE WINTER REPORTS ON THE LATEST BEAUTY TRENDS AND TECHNOLOGIES THAT ONCE SEEMED OUT OF THIS WORLD. FOR THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY, 2018 was a year of rapid
evolution and major innovation. We saw a rise in the popularity of exotic ingredients and skin supplements, while anti-pollution and bespoke skincare solutions moved into the mainstream. But bigger — yes, much bigger — changes are just around the corner. “We’re about to see a powerful change in the ‘natural’ beauty category and there will be a mass culture shift,” says Deryll Naidoo, founder of Future Hub, a Melbourne-based company that forecasts industry-disrupting trends. “Taking care of yourself is in. Unhealthy habits are out. Phrases such as ‘irritant free’ and ‘zero irritant’ won’t just be used by natural skincare brands, they will become standard for mass skincare.” As a result, trends such as ‘glass skin’ — skin so clear and luminous it almost appears translucent — will go mainstream. Australian women are enthusiastically embracing the K-beauty (and soon-to-come J-beauty, or Japanese beauty) trend, prompting Korea’s bestselling brand, Innisfree, to expand into Australia. (They currently have two stores in Melbourne.) One of the factors contributing to K-beauty’s success is novel ingredients, and now Western brands such as Mavala, Rejuvaphyl and Ole Henriksen are jumping on the innovation bandwagon. Chlorophyll, bakuchiol (a plant extract with anti-ageing properties that’s touted as a natural alternative to retinol) and perlite (a moisture-absorbing mineral derived from volcanic rock) are three ingredients that are rapidly moving up the ‘it list’. But the quest for perfect skin isn’t just about innovation in ingredients, there is serious science involved. Epigenetics — the study of biological mechanisms that will switch genes on and off — is the new buzzword in skincare science. “Epigenetics is involved in the pathology of every disease… it is sensitive to changes in all kinds of environmental exposures,” says Dr Neil Youngson, a medical researcher at the University of New South Wales who specialises in epigenetics. “When we age, the cell energy drops… we need to re-energise it by restoring its optimal function.” Sisley have tried to do just that — the French skincare brand recently launched a new firming serum they claim has the ability to factor in behavioural signs of ageing and reactivate the mechanisms that make skin firm and youthful. Phytomer are also focusing on gene function.
Their latest cellulite lotion, Celluli Attack, contains sea grape, an ingredient they claim can suppress the genes that control the synthesis and storage of fat cells. If that isn’t sci-fi enough, smart technology is rocketing take-home beauty tools to a whole new level. Neutrogena have launched a light therapy spot treatment pen to banish blemishes, while cleansing devices, such as Foreo’s Luna Fofo, have become ultra-sophisticated, incorporating innovative sensors to measure and analyse skin. Then there’s the Foreo UFO, the world’s first ‘smart mask’, a hand-held device that combines red, green and blue LED light therapy with thermotherapy (to open up pores and help infuse active ingredients into the skin), t-sonic pulsations (to aid absorption of ingredients) and cryotherapy (to seal in active ingredients and reduce puffiness). There’s even a vaccine in development that will fight acne. According to a paper published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, scientists have discovered an antibody to a toxin that is linked to acne-causing inflammation. It’s still in the testing phase but, in the meantime, brands like Amperna are leading the way for sensitive and acne-prone skin, formulating skincare products with probiotics that encourage good bacteria to flourish. When it comes to make-up, the future is incredibly colourful, according to Alphie Sadsad, national artistry lead for Sephora Australia. “People are thinking more about make-up as self-care, not something that’s silly and superficial,” he says. “It’s a way to improve your mood or express your creativity.” And the trend towards colourful cosmetics looks set to continue. “Everyone loves a little colour in their lives and a bold lip or fierce eye is always a great pick up.” Next year, the biggest change will be driven by the growing movement to embrace diversity, with brands such as Fenty leading the way. “Forty foundation shades is becoming the new normal,” says Alphie. He also tips Bounce Foundation by Beautyblender as a product to look out for. “Think 40 shades, innovative packaging and a texture everyone will love.” If Bounce Foundation does prove popular, you can bet it’s consumers who are driving the trend. “It is people, rather than brands, that have become the biggest cultural trend shifters,” says Deryll. He believes brands are not only listening to their customers more, they’re using customers’ input throughout the product development process. “Cultural trends are the main driving force for change... this is a major mindshift.” >
“It is people, rather than brands, that have become the biggest cultural trend shifters.”
128 COUNTRY ST Y LE DECEMBER 2018