Chaumet位於12 Rue Place Vendome的總部將於2020年1月經大肆翻新後重開。 In January 2020, the iconic Chaumet address at 12 Place Vendome will re-open after extensive renovations.
Mansvelt進軍北美洲的鴻圖大計終於成事，他計劃如 何在這個競爭激烈的市場突圍而出？「Chaumet本身已經與 別不同，有著悠久的歷史背景，成立至今接近250年，年資 比起Cartier及Van Cleef [and Arpels]足足超過一個世紀，跟 Boucheron相比亦多出將近一個世紀，對很多人來說，這點十 分重要。從Chaumet以噸計的資料中，可以知道我們的客人 包括很多知名的美國貴族及藝術家。我們絕不墨守成規，經常 發表不同的設計。很多珠寶品牌可以讓人盡情炫富，但這並非 Chaumet的風格。」 繼2017及2018年分別於北京及東京進行展覽後， Chaumet在今年夏天於法國蔚藍海岸的摩納哥展出一系列典藏 珍寶，展品由博物館、富豪家族及皇室借出，部分更是首次對 外展出。這個名為 《Chaumet in Majesty: Jewels of Sovereigns Since 1780》的展覽，焦點落在珠寶及藝術之間的邂逅，而冠 冕則是歷久不衰的配飾。展出的珍品包括50頂冠冕及250件珠 寶精品，完美展現品牌在過去兩個半世紀的精湛工藝及設計。 2020年1月，Chaumet位於12 Rue Place Vendome的總 部經大肆翻新後重開。「回顧Chaumet的悠久歷史，就好像回 顧藝術的歷史。」Mansvelt說：「珠寶臻品由一幅草圖開始，它 塑造了品牌的風格及時代的潮流，仿似同時回顧法國的歷史。 客人今天花一千歐羅買一枚Bee My Love戒指，其實亦買了品 牌在法國的悠久歷史。」 Chaumet為什麼不選擇跟其他珠寶品牌如Tiffany般，在加 國開設專賣店？答案很簡單，因為Birks是一個明確的合作好 伙伴。Mansvelt說：「我們（Chaumet 及 Birks）都正在轉型， 大家並肩同行，這就是有趣的地方。再者，Tiffany是無人不曉 的美國品牌，而我們要打入市場並非一蹴而至，Birks能為我 們的品牌增加可信性。就好像Van Cleef，一開始也是跟Birks 合作，現在已開設了專賣店。」 期待Chaumet於未來數年在加國大展拳腳。目前，品牌 的設計只於Maison Birks獨家發售。
Yet Mansvelt’s mandate is for Chaumet to finally make its mark in North America’s highly competitive high-end jewellery market. And how does he plan to accomplish this feat? “We will stand out by being ourself,” says Mansvelt, “because we have a great history. For many people, knowing that Chaumet has survived for almost 250 years—a century more than Cartier, a century more than Van Cleef [and Arpels], almost a century more than Boucheron—is important to them. If you dive into the tons of documents at Chaumet you will find so many famous American families and artists who were all clients of Chaumet. But Chaumet has always done things differently. It has never been a brand for those who want to show off their wealth. Other brands may be more in your face. That is not Chaumet.” After Beijing in 2017 and Tokyo in 2018, Chaumet went to Monaco in the French Riviera this past summer to unveil rare historical pieces—loaned by museums, grand families or royalty—some of which are being seen publicly for the first time. Titled Chaumet in Majesty: Jewels of Sovereigns Since 1780, the exhibition highlighted the ongoing dialogue between jewellery and the arts, rendering the tiara a continually reinvented accessory. The exhibit included 50 tiaras (some models of which are pictured left), 250 jewels, all summarizing two and a half centuries of creations. And in January 2020 the iconic Chaumet address at 12 Place Vendome will re-open after extensive renovations. “When you navigate the very long story of Chaumet,” says Mansvelt, “you are navigating the history of art. Jewellery is at first a drawing, the style of the maison and the current styles of the times. You are navigating the history of France. Even today buying our 1,000 Euro Bee My Love ring, you are also buying our long history in France.” So with the expansion into Canada, why not a standalone store like other more known jewellery brands like Tiffany have done. Easy answer. That is because Birks seemed like an obvious partner. “We [Chaumet And Birks] were both going through our own mutual transformations, says Mansvelt. “That is what is interesting; both brands are on a parallel journey at the same time. “Also Tiffany is an American brand. Everyone knows the name. So we realize our journey will take a bit longer. But launching in Birks gives us certain credibility in this market. It is very much like what Van Cleef did. They started at a Birks and now they are opening standalone stores.” Expect to see Chaumet follow suit in the next few years. In the meantime, their pieces are available exclusively at Maison Birks. ELITEGEN
Sep 2019 EliteGen Vancouver