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百搭白T恤

THE T-sHIRT

男士衣櫃中,一定要有和一定會有的,除了白恤衫,還有充 滿可塑性的白Tee。

Apart from a clean white dress shirt, a multi-functional white T-shirt should be a staple in every man’s wardrobe.

香港的賴秉堅(阿堅)更開了「Imperfect Atelier」白T-shirt專賣 店,為男士搜羅世界各地優質白T恤。但為何在芸芸白色時裝單品 中,只取這一件白T-shirt?他笑說:「白T恤整潔、乾淨、沒有局 限。它未必一定要當主角,卻能助你突出自己,既可拿來襯西裝 褸,配搭短褲亦成,充滿可能性。」

Kin Lai runs Imperfect Atelier, which specializes in good quality Ts, sourced from around the world. Why Ts? says Lai: “Because a white T is neat and clean and has no limits. It may not be the star, but it helps you stand out. It can be worn with a suit jacket or shorts. It offers lots of possibilities.”

白Tee講求細節,選擇時需要細心留意,當中大有學問, 賴秉堅說:「買T恤首看質地,由埃及棉(Egyptian Long Fiber Cotton)、精梳棉(Combed Cotton)這類長纖維編織出來的T恤,質 地較順滑且耐穿,親膚度較高。其次看T恤的『支數』和『磅數』,前 者數字愈高代表T恤愈薄,磅數也相對輕,穿起來雖然舒適,卻很 容易出現『激凸』的窘況,一般磅數較高的白Tee,相對挺身厚實。」 當然,編織方法、車工和剪裁同樣重要:「一般機器編織出來的T 恤,纖維經用力拉扯而相對硬淨,但某些日本和德國製的圓筒Tee 由紡輪(Loopwheel)編織,製作緩慢,出品卻柔軟舒適,保持棉 質本身的特色。另外,若不想衣領部分變形,選擇羅紋領(ribbed collar)設計會更耐穿。」

Details are crucial for a white T, so one must look closely and choose wisely. “Quality is most important,” emphasizes Lai. “The Ts made with Egyptian long-fibre cotton and combed cotton are smoother and more durable. They feel good on the skin. “Then you have to look at the count and the ounce. The higher the count, the thinner and lighter the T. It’s more comfortable to wear, but it can be embarrassingly fitting. Ts of higher ounces are thicker and keep their form better.” Lai also says weaving, cutting and sewing technigues are equally important: “Machine-woven Ts are sturdier as the fibres have been stretched. some Ts from Japan and Germany are loopwheel woven. The process is slow but it keeps the characteristics of the cotton and the Ts are very soft and comfortable. Ribbed collars will be better for those who don’t want misshapen collars after a few washes.”

白 T-shirT 保養教室

Care for your white t 洗滌:若白T-shirt不慎蘸上污跡, 應立即用清水擦拭,洗衣前再用梳 打粉和洗衣粉開水浸泡半小時,即 可去跡;若衣領上有黃色汗跡,可 使用檸檬汁去除。 固形:不想白T-shirt領子變成彎彎 曲曲的「荷葉領」,謹記在脫衣時不 要拉扯領子,並使用闊身衣架掛好。 防毛粒:放進洗衣機或多或少總會 有摩擦產生靜電,讓T恤的纖維捲起 來形成毛粒。洗衣時必須把衣服翻 轉放進洗衣袋,便會減少產生毛粒 的機會。

Washing: If it is stained, dab the stain with water immediately. Before washing, mix baking soda and detergent into warm water and soak for half an hour to remove the stain. Use lemon juice to remove yellow sweat stains on collars and under the arms. Shaping: To keep the collars in shape, avoid pulling the collars when undressing. Use wide hangers to hang the T. Pilling: Machine-washing a T will produce a certain level of static from rubbing, which will lead to pilling. Turn the T inside out and wash in a laundry bag to avoid this.

ELITEGEN

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