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What a fantastic period for sports. We all remember the times of being stood outside, in the middle of winter, in nothing but a T-shirt and shorts, freezing our tits off and being forced to play rounders on the school’s field. Well, as technology changes so does sportswear. Now we can buy T-shirts that keep our bodies warm, even in the coldest climes of Nottingham. Forget about doing exercise at home: now is the time to get out in public and show off those stylish, sporty-chic pieces. With garments now being made from moisture resistant fabrics to keep skin dry or performance-enhancing textiles which have the ability to regulate the temperature of an athlete’s body, it’s clear to say that we have had an outstanding breakthrough in technology. Is there any wonder that world records keep being improved? However, it hasn’t always been this practical. In this month’s issue I will be taking you on a journey through 100 years of fashion, and looking at how sports clothing has changed. Trust me, it’s shocking. From the restrictive tennis gowns of the 1900s to the aerodynamic bob sleighing-bodysuits of today, sportswear has sure had its ups and downs. Sportswear has always reflected progress within women’s rights. For example, gymnastics in the 1930s was a very wholesome affair: karate-style uniforms that is best described as a bag. However, today, gymnastics seems to be a competition between the teams of who can out-skimp the other. Whether you are sat on a train, in a book store or just at home enjoying a nice cup of coffee whist reading this zine, just thank the lords you aren’t back at school in this typical shite English weather. 2

CONTENT C ONTENT CO NTENT CON TENT CONT ENT CONTE TENT CONT

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content PG 06 - 07: Radical designer review PG 08 - 09: Photoshoot PG 10 - 11: Exhibition review PG 12 - 13: 1910 Comparison page PG 14 - 39: 100 years of fashion through sports PG 22- 23: Teddy Tinling and his designer Tennis dresses

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ION V S PORT FASHIO N V SP O RT FASHIO N SPOR ASION T V SPOR T SHION V SPOR T SHION V SPOR T HION V Monse

Don’t you just love Selfridges? Walking around, Browsing all the beautiful clothing, wishing you were rich enough to buy even just a keyring and then coming to the realisation that, the only way you’ll ever be like posh Susan and having all this designer gear you could ever want, holds solely in the hands of you marrying a sugar daddy. Makes me realize my chances of ever owning a £1000 pair of Louis Vuitton boots, are very slim.

Not only does that get you down but when you see young girls going around, picking up half of Gucci and being able to just buy anything and everything they want, makes you question if money really does “grows on trees”?

shade of blue. Made in crushed velvet and had huge army style pockets on either side of the leg. The trousers looked like they had been quickly draped on a stand and been cut there and then due to the simplicity of the silhouette. The top, is in the exact same colour and fabric and has a draped cowl neck. Its 100% safe to say, you’d have to be brave to wear this outfit as well as rich. This outfits comes in at almost two and a half thousand pounds, so only a small amount in a rich person’s eyes. After seeing this brands clothing, I had to look it up online. In my opinion, their collections follow a similar pattern: heavily structured clothing, with what

looks like thick, quality, yet stiff fabrics and then they add a feminine feature like: off-theshoulder, a slit up the leg, frills or miniskirts/dress. It’s a very classy brand and you’ll see celebrities like Emily Ratajkowski, Claire Danes and Natalia Vodianova all wearing these garments at different events. Their fashion shows are pretty breath-taking. It leaves a dazzling impression, even if you don’t think it will. The colours, the textile, the manner in which it all moves and then, of course, those sequins. You are in! My preferred catwalk was their spring 2018 ready-to-wear collection, as the models walked up and down a basketball court.

This was for no random reason. The collection was inspired by collegiate wear and sports uniforms. Which if you hadn’t guessed, I’m very much into the sports-wear look. For me the clothing still entailed the classy Monse feel but gave subtle hints of American baseball, basketball and cheerleading attire. Emily Farra (vogue writer) didn’t seem to like this collection and stated, “the brands signature stripped shirting didn’t have the charm of previous seasons” and suggested that this collection has been “twisted too far” on athleisure. I guess you will have to look into it for yourself and decide whether you are for or against this new Monse vibe.

Despite all the depressing reasons of going to Selfridges it was very educational for my research. After stating “sports clothing has evolved in technology and not in designs” I couldn’t be more wrong. I came across a few brands Eg: Fenty X Puma and Monse. Both stood out to me as they were sporty yet very up-to-date and fashionable. One outfit in particular caught my eye, it was by Monse and if velour and Madonna had collaborated, this is what they would have made. Monse doesn’t particularly make sports clothes (except for their recent collection) but this particular outfit looked like a glammed-up tracksuit which is why I found it so interesting.

The trousers were a bright, electric

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Exhibition Writing When I got told we were going to a Balenciaga fashion exhibition, as most young girls who are into fashion, I got very excited. Balenciaga have been following this oversized casual trend which seems to have taken off in the last year after Kanye West brought out his “Yeezy” collection. The yeezy brand entails military style apparel due to the distressed look with the muddy colour pallet Eg: clay, khaki, nude and typical earthy hues. Layered oversized tops, jumpers and coats are paired together with builder boots. Rhianna has also been caught wearing Balenciaga and ever since that the world has been obsessed with it. The footwear in particular has become incredibly popular with the majority of young girls and boys repping the space like sneaker. It’s definitely the trainer to be wearing this year. But how did Balenciaga turn into this massive fashion brand?

The outfit “that everyone seemed to make a dash for.

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When I first walked into the exhibition you see all the earlier work by Cristobal Balenciaga. The first garment to catch my eye was a long green evening dress that looked rather similar to the tree we put up at Christmas. Although this wouldn’t be something I’d wear you can see why he had such a strong and lasting impact on fashion; he used bold colours, clever manipulation of fabrics and abstract architectural shapes.

Cristobal was introduced to fashion by his mother and then began an apprenticeship at a tailor’s, therefore unlike most couturiers at that time he was skilled in every stage of the making progress: designing, cutting, tailoring and dressmaking. This made his work different and concluded in him doing so well. Making your way up the stairs felt like a scene from Cinderella, with the staircase being beautiful and grand, as you made your way up you could see more clothing which wasn’t displayed behind clear glasses; allowing you to get close and see how the fabric actually looked. Lurex, satin, plastic, cotton, lace and chiffon are only some of the beautiful fabrics that catch your eye, on the way up the stairs. The top section of the exhibition was my favourite, the garments were set out like you were watching a live catwalk show and every piece was beautifully crafted. One outfit that everyone seemed to make a dash for when they caught eyes with its huge pink frills was the “sack dress”. The original ‘sack’ dress was created by Cristobal in the 1950s and this then echoed the controversy caused by Rei Kawakubos early collections in 1970 for her label Comme Des Garcons. She then created this stunning, over-the-top dress in 1983 out of cotton, plastic and elastic. The uses of plastic in certain areas gives it an element of Si-fi related themes. To me this dress vastly reminds

me of the jumpers Zara are currently selling with the oversized, ruffled sleeves. I am all about fashionized sportswear at the minute so when I saw this Down-filled coat dress I was pretty thrilled. The coat was jet black but, when the light hit it the coat gave off this purple glow, almost like Edward the vampire in twilight. The jacket had a low V-neck and where the V ended was a skater belt, which looked like the seat belts you get at Alton Towers. Matthew Williams (the designer of this coat) described the aesthetic of this label ‘Alyx’ as a ‘modern classic’. He was introduced to the strong shapes of Cristobal Balenciaga’s work through the designs of Nicolas Ghesquiere, whom he notes as a key influence on the strong silhouettes of his streamlined sporty designs. This coat reminds me of the Kim Kardashian vibe, with that ‘Yeezy’ style to it. I personally like it as it’s something I’d wear (I just need to find a willing boyfriend to buy it me). I enjoyed this exhibition as there was a huge balance of ready-to-wear and unusual fashion styles all over the two-story building. The exhibition provided sketchbooks and videos which allowed it to be a more personal experience, as we could get inside Cristobal’s creative mind. I would highly recommend this exhibition with it being at the V&A gallery you could always go for a spot of shopping in London after.

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Same wear but different decade

Head gear

Could move ea

Traditional victorian dress or tennis outfit?

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Restricti ve

Short

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ort

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1940

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Long dresses

1900

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Womens football

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1920

1920s was all about the Flapper fashion, the usage of pleating in the skirts are inspired by the tennis skirts. This design is by Chanel who s brand still remains big today.

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30 SK

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IIN G

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1930

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1940

For me the 1940s was the beginning of fabulous tennis attire after tennis star Teddy Tinling started designing tennis couture for well-known players. Not only did players wear his creations but they paid hundreds to do so. In my opinion, he created one-of-a-kind designs as he utilized ribbon, rickrack, sequins but most importantly lace. This was a big breakthrough in fashion and sport as lace was used for underwear and as it was on show it meant it would have caused controversy, which people eventually got used to. One of my favourite designs was the Tinling cape as it was all fur so being paired with the tennis outfit gave it such a glamorous and high-end look. I also liked the fact it was lined with satin and had hundreds of the Wimbledon logo embossed inside. Tinlings designs were worn by tons of popular players, from the lace pants worn by Gertrude Moran in 1949, to Billie Jean King, who wore his blue and white pearl creation for her much advertised “battle of the sexes� game with Bobby Riggs. He also designed for Tracy Austin, Suzanne Lenglen, Maria Bueno who got turned into a rainbow, miss Bueno and Anne White who wore a bodysuit until it was banned after one round.

For Teddy

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1950

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1960

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1970

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1980S GYM ATTIRE MUST HAVES.

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UGH AS IF.

1990

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1990

As you can see short pleated skirts make their way into fashion, what a

‘Every teenager had to have a pair of Air Jordans and a Chicago Bulls baseball cap’

better way to wear it than Cher Horowitz in her yellow tweed two peice. Basketball, particularly in America was and still is a huge sport, not only did retailers start stocking the vests and the Jordans found playing on the court but the ‘oversized’ fashion trend also took inspiration from these loose outfits.

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2000

THE RISE OF ATHLEISURE

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Present

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Having ‘Recycled fabrics’ and ‘high-end fashion’ all in the same sentence just doesn’t seem right. When I think of Recycled fashion I can’t help but picture a mini dress with multi-coloured Sainsbury’s, Tesco and Morrison’s bags stapled together, to form some sort of attire that manages to stay together for a whole catwalk show. The only problem with that now-a-days, is the fact people have to spend 5 pence on one bag and so that bag will be used until both the handles have been torn off, as well as stretched plastic and a dozen holes being formed right at the bottom. Being in retail I have seen those people say ‘no’ to a second bag (even though they evidently need one) and still try to cram their last few items in. It doesn’t seem like the best idea when it splits just outside the shop and then they have to carry everything in their arms. However, don’t turn your nose up at this idea completely as in the future clothing will be mainly made out of recycled fabrics due to fashion being the second highest polluter on the planet. Stella McCartney has turned this idea into something fashionable and teamed

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up with Adidas to create a remake of the Ultra Boosts X running shoes with the new trend of knitted footwear. These trainers are made from Parley Ocean Plastic; a manufacturing method which places ywarns made from recycled waste found from the sea, instead of synthetic fibres. The Midsole is made from the brands Boost material, a foamy white cushioning more frequently used in car instrument panels. Although this isn’t recycled it’s something that will defiantly be made possible in the future. The shoes have natural motion, a sock-like construction, and a non-marking rubber outsole which is pretty incredible to say they are made from recycled materials. Its not just about the technology thats improved over the years but, athleisure is a huge look that continues to be trending all over the world. When i think of athleisure the first designer to pop into mind is Kanye West with his brand “Yeezy” that first came out in 2015. His brand creates outfits that are inspired by popular american sports like baseball and basketball, oh and pretty much everything is oversized. These images are two of my favourite Yeezy outfits, i just wish i could afford to buy them.

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WEARING HEELS IS A SPORT.

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zine  

100 years of fashion through sport

zine  

100 years of fashion through sport

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