In this guide, as well as in the previous of the same collection, we have adopted the new evaluation scale (by now largely in use). This means there will be three different parameters to keep in mind and as a consequence three different scales to take into consideration when describing a route: the technical difficulty, the routes possibility of being protected, the overall features of the route. To actually have a precise idea of a route, it will then be necessary to express all three parameters because none of them, considered separately, will give enough information to the climber.
Weather forecast Nivometeo Regione Lombardia, tel. 167837077 freephone Weather forecast Nivometeo AINEVA, tel. 0461230030 interactive or www.novanet.it/vvol/meteo/ Weather forecast of the Centro Geofisico Prealpino, tel. 0332285111 or www.astrogeo.va.it/prevmete.htm Weather forecast Svizzero in Italian, option Sud delle Alpi, tel. 004191162 Meteo Svizzera www.sma.ch
TECHNICAL DIFFICULTIES The guide includes almost exclusively, modern itineraries or sport routes, usually protected with bolts. For every multi pitch route, both the maximum grade and the obligatory grade is shown. In a few cases the number of moves that can (or should) be climbed aid are also listed. PROTECTION We adopted a scale that only takes into consideration the distance and the reliability of the anchors, using the letter “R” (risk). In the case of bolted routes the letter “S” substitutes “R” and evaluation just concerns the distance between bolts. For mixed routes, we used “RS”. Taking the artificial scale as a starting point, this chart is divided into 6 grades, where the 6th grade indicates a length that is hardly possible to protect, with high risks of mortal fall. The scale is open, of course. OVERALL FEATURES To determine overall features of a route (such as surrounding, downclimb difficulties, distance from the bottom of the valley), we had to substitute the classic French scale with the American one - used to describe big wallsexpressed in Roman numbers from I to VII (it’s an open scale) and to be considered together with technical difficulty. As you can see from the chart, grading is not linked to difficulty that is always to be considered together with the Roman number. 16
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Published on May 31, 2011
Published on May 31, 2011
Tutte le falesie dalla val Chiavenna al Passo dello Stelvio. Cento proposte per questa terza edizione di una guida che copre un territorio v...