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M. MANICA – A. CICOGNA – D. NEGRETTI

ARCO Rock

136 PROPOSALS. Arco – Valle del Sarca – Valle dei Laghi Trento – Rovereto – Valli Giudicarie – Val di Non

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD | COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI | CLIMBING


First edition. April 2006 Second edition. June 2010 Third edition. February 2015 Fourth edition. May 2018 ISBN 9788885475 212 Copyright © 2018 VERSANTE SUD S.r.l. via Longhi, 10, Milan Italy phone +39 027490163 www.versantesud.it All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.

Cover image

Spiaggia delle Lucertole, Claudio Migliorini (© Giampaolo Calzà)

Text

Antonella Cicogna, Mario Manica, Davide Negretti

Interviews

Antonella Cicogna

Drawings and topos

Chiara Benedetto. Relief maps: Davide Negretti, Mario Manica

English translation

Alexandra Ercolani

Maps

Chiara Benedetto. © Mapbox, © Open Street Map

Symbols

Tommaso Bacciocchi

Layout

Chiara Benedetto

Printing

Tipolitografia PAGANI (BS)

zero-miles

zero-miles

This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced

This is a “zero-miles” guidebook - it’s locally produced! it has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote climbing in the area reviewed. climbers benefit from local authors: - locals know the latest news and updates - locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” spots - locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in equipping new crags local authors promote and respect their area: - they review only the spots where climbing is allowed - they pay attention in the same way to any different spot - they meaningfully interact with local actors

NOTE Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualifed individuals.


zero-miles

This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced

Mario Manica Antonella Cicogna Davide Negretti

ARCO Rock 136 proposals Arco – Valle del Sarca – Valle dei Laghi Valli Giudicarie – Molveno-Andalo Val di Non – Trento – Rovereto

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD


PREFACE

This Guide book will lead you on vertical walls, overhangs, slabs, and boulders. It will tell you all about the kingdom of rock protected by the Sarca Valley, and not only, dedicated to single pitches. There are many areas covered. Arco-Padaro, Laghel, Monte Colt, San Paolo, Massone, Dro-Pietramurata, Sarche-Toblino, Val Di Ledro, Tenno, Nago, TorboleRiva, Val di Gresta-Brentonico, Valle di Cavedine, Terlago, Vezzano-Ranzo, Valli Giudicarie-Rendena, Banale-Molveno, Val di Non, Trento, Rovereto… The variety of single pitches in this area is enormous, for every finger tip. A total of 136 crags (23 more compared to the last edition), which means more than 5260 single pitches. Every rock face has been scanned and updated to its very core: from sector to sector, pitch to pitch. Move after move. Every single variation, anything new – from grades to the First Ascent of the most difficult routes – has been put in ink and drawn here in our Guide (which has reached its fourth edition, ended in March 2018). Not only did we put under the microscope all the routes and rock faces. On foot we retraced all the approach walks of every single crag, now adding a GPS track from the car park. It is forbidden to get lost!

Every wall, and we are proud of this, is published wit the approval of the route openers, and it is with them that we have constantly measured ourselves against. Nothing in these pages comes from the black market. With this logic in mind, you will not find crags here that the bolters did not intend publishing or that may cause difficulties. The crags of Laghel and Narango are an example. After the performances of Stefano Ghisolfi and Adam Ondra, Laghel has appeared on all web sites and social media, with films, photos and interviews. Approaching the route from above is very difficult and only for experts. Approaching the routes from below is not possible since the land is private and the owner does not want anyone to access it. To publish this crag could have contributed in creating bad feeling and the shutting down of the rock face, which nonetheless is only reserved for the very few. Narango, very well known and busy crag, has been forbidden to be published by the bolter. As always and from the beginning of Arco Rock (first edition 2006), we respect this point of view and will not publish this wall in the Guide book. Climbers of overhangs, slabs, vertical walls, boulders, whoever you may be, we hope that with this Guide you will find answers to the vertical fire that has brought you here. Because rock is like a wave. It calls from afar. And us climbers, just like surfers, are nomads forever searching for that energy that only certain rock, like certain waves, can give. Have Fun! Mario Manica, Antonella Cicogna, Davide Negretti

Bus de Vela, Patrik Bilatti, Pollon, 8a (© Roni Andres)

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The new edition of Arco Rock: 136 vertical suggestions, 5260 single-pitch routes, 23 extra walls!


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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS In compiling this latest Guide book so many people have helped me/us, but I must start off with them: Gianguido Luca Roni. Roni Gianguido Luca: if I check my list of calls, they are always at the top. Another free ascent has to be added. Do you know where this new route is? Have you repeated it by any chance? Lots of chat, laughs and last-minute calls: so many!

I was their worst nightmare but they always reacted enthusiastically. Luca Roni Gianguido: interchangeable in spirit and energy. They all share the same feeling that the rock in this valley transmits. Each one, special in his own way.

Gianguido Dalfovo. Nettle dumplings and sea bream baked in foil on a bed of delicate greens, fresh brown bread and panna cotta with pomegranate jelly to finish off with. Obviously, all prepared by him, a professional cook, who talks enthusiastically about his work and the youngsters he cooks for, together with Sara, in their house at Terlago. And at the end of an evening like that Gianguido still has the nerve to ask: So, who’s ready now for some steamed cod? He treats you like a king. Roni Andres. Arrived in Italy, Arco, in 2008. He does things in a way which reflects his origins in the sun, from a hot climate, even when the Outlet Vertical where he works is in turmoil. He studied Iridology and Naturopathy. He greets you simply. And you can read this into his photography, you breathe in all this light. As well as on the crags he bolts. And you would let him talk for hours, with Southern Brazil in his eyes and his voice. Caxias do Sul. Because he simply recharges your batteries. Luca Onorevoli. You have hardly had time to “finish” a crag when he, spontaneously, calls you. They’ve just bolted this route to the left of…These days they have freed…Guess what? On that wall... And you don’t call him, he calls you. He is so positive about everything, his words, his emails, his suggestions. Luca is used to being there, maybe also because of his profession as a male nurse. Or because people from Romagna are like that. But not necessarily so. And the same goes for all of them. So, a super thankyou!

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The production of these vertical pages was due to the contributions of so many different people. A suggestion, a grade, a description from one; a route, a crag, an approach walk from another. Some with their own pictures…all extra precious elements, which allowed us to finish the pages and add new elements to the walls of this edition. Thank you so much for all the time you dedicated to this project!

Find the balance

Thanks also to: Adam Galvagni, Adriano Cavallaro, Adriano Tavernini, Adriano Benedetti, Alessandro Gandolfo, Alessandro Larcher, Alessandro Zeni, Alessio Conz, Alessio Miori, Alessio Tait, Alfredo Webber, Andrea Bruni, Andrea Parziani, Barbara Maffei, Carlo Zotele, Claudio Dellago, Claudio Kerschbaumer, Cristina dall'Olio, Cristian Brenna, Cristiano Casagranda, Danilo Bonvecchio, Danilo Cavosi, Demis Lorenzi, Diego Depretto, Domenico Tonelli, Donato Falcone, Doriano Filippi, Edy Boldrin, Emanuele Andreozzi, Eric Albertini, Fabrizio Agosti, Filippo Frizzera, Flavio Cainelli, Franco Cavallaro, Geremia Vergoni, Gerhard Hörager, Giacomo Damian, Gianluigi Zeni, Gianpaolo Calzà, Gianni Canale, Gianni Trentini, Giorgio Nicolodi, Giordano Faletti, Gino Malfer, Giordano Garosio, Klaus Dall'Orto, Laura Giunta, Lino Celva, Loris Manzana, Luca Felter, Luca Forti, Luca Giupponi, Luca Pasqualetto, Luciano Calderan, Marco Manfredini, Marco Zanni, Marco Faes, Markus Stadler, Mario Dassati, Martino Peterlongo, Martino Grandesso, Markus Bock, Matthias Knaubert, Matteo Menardi, Mattia Badanel, Michele Bort, Michele Camin, Michel Ghezzi, Michael Broemsen, Mirco Corn, Massimo Faletti, Matteo Lari, Mattia Bonanome, Matteo Mocellin, Mauro Bertolasi, Mauro Mabboni, Nicola Parziani, Nicolò Ventura, Olga Maffei, Ornella Ganarin, Paolo Benvenuti, Paolo Bonvicini, Peter Moser, Riccardo Russo, Roland Galvagni, Rolando Larcher, Rudi Filippi, Samuel Guetti, Sara Grippo, Sauro Merighi, Severino Scassa, Silvano Matassoni, Silvio Reffo, Simone Banal, Simone Noventa, Stefan Scarperi, Stefano Folgarait, Stefano Ghisolfi, Stefano Ghidini, Tiziano Buccella, Valerio Ballardini.

Authorized Arco dealer

mo u n t a i n e q u i p me n t

Mario Manica

ARCO www.climbingarco.it/area riservata soci FASI

mo u n t a i n e q u i p me n t ARCO www.climbingarco.it/area riservata soci FASI

ROCK&ICE mountain store

ARCO - TRENTO - CORTINA

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INDEX Topo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Index according to exposure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Sarca Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Road access and useful numbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Bibliography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

The history of single-pitch routes in the Sarca Valley, and her surroundings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 F.A. of the hardest routes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Reading scheme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

ARCO - PADARO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

DRO - PIETRAMURATA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192

01. Padaro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 02. Le Piazzole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 03. Mandrea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 04. Placche di Baone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 05. Bus de la Stria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76

26. La fattoria degli struzzi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 27. La pizzeria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 28. Massi di Gaggiolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 29. Transatlantico . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 30. Camerette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 31. Muro di chitarra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 32. Baule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 33. Giardino di Nato . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214

LAGHEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 06 Calvario . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 07. Muro dell'asino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 08. L'orto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 09. Salt de la cavra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 MONTE COLT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 10. Red Point wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 11. Monte Colt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 12. Pizarra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 13. Ottava meraviglia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 14. Ceniga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 SAN PAOLO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20.

Eremo di San Paolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Diamante del BA.RO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Swing Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 San Paolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Massi di Prabi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Sport roccia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 MASSONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146

21. Family San Martino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 22. Massone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 23. Terra Promessa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 24. Grottosauro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 25. Piccola Dallas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186

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SARCHE - TOBLINO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 34. Sisyphos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 35. Athos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 36. Sarche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 37. La panoramica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 38. Il posto delle fragole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 39. Limarock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 40. Ghess wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 41. Babilonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 42. Bassilandia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 43. La gola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 44. Santa Massenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272


45. Climax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 46. Il giardino delle occasioni perdute . . . . . . . 280 47. La finestra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 VAL DI LEDRO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 48. Regina del Lago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 49. Finale Ampola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 50. Futur Ampola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304

TERLAGO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424 75. Terlago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428 76. Canton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432 77. Monte Terlago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434 78. Prada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 438 79. Vigol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440 80. Baselga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 442 VEZZANO - RANZO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444

TENNO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 51. Volta de' no' . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 52. Sanderland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312

NAGO - TORBOLE - RIVA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316 53. Nago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 54. Massi delle Traole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 55. Passo San Giovanni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 56. Belvedere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348 57. Marmitte dei Giganti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 58. Torbole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358 59. Corno di Bò . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 60. Spiaggia delle lucertole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362 61. Torbolino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 62. Deep Water Soloing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368

81. Teatro delle marionette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 448 82. Lon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452 83. Coel dela val dela porta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456 84. Margone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460 85. Herr wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464 86. Drago zone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 466 87. La terrazza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468 88. Il bersaglio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 470 89. Il Vaticano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472 90. Ranzo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476 VALLI GIUDICARIE - RENDENA . . . . . 482

63. Tassilandia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372 64. Nomesino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378 65. Besagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382 66. Crosano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386

91. Comano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 486 92. Val Lomasone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 490 93. Sunny place . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 94. Riobianco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 504 95. Val d’Algone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 506 96. Coltura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512 97. Croz de le niere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 520 98. Col del Frate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526 99. Tione - Brevine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530 100. Breguzzo - Cengio de la vecia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 532 101. Ai Brentei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 536

VALLE DI CAVEDINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392

BANALE - MOLVENO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540

67. Castel Madruzzo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396 68. Lagolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400 69. San Siro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404 70. La cosina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412 71. Cavedine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416 72. Area 51 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418 73. Dos pela' . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420 74. Castello di Drena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422

102. Promeghin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542 103. Nembia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 546 104. Lago Nembia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 548 105. Molveno S. Antonio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 552 106. Cavedago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 558 107. Spormaggiore – Sasedei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 566

VAL DI GRESTA - BRENTONICO . . . . 370

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Index and Topo

VAL DI NON . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 568 108. Tor di Visione . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 570 109. San Romedio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 572 110. Verdes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 574 111. Malosco - Fondo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 576 112. Mondino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 580 TRENTO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 586 113. Calisio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 590 114. Feudo - Drago nascosto - Lo scudo . . . . . . . 592 115. Makkiodromo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 596 116. Mescalisio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 598 117. Cartoon Network . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 602 118. Muro dei 70 scalini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 606 119. Forti di Civezzano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 608 120. Celva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 622 121. La vela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 628

122. Bus de vela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 634 123. Vason . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 638 124. Zambana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 640 ROVERETO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 644 125. Cola grant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 646 126. Monte Scanuppia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 650 127. L’orrido . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 656 128. Serrada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 660 129. Al castello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 666 130. Zengio del far noter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 672 131. Noriglio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 676 132. La campana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 684 133. Eremo di San Colombano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 688 134. Acheni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 694 135. Orme dei dinosauri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 696 136. Pian del Levro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 702

THE PROTAGONISTS Sauro Merighi - THE GREAT AND GENTLE GIANT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Stefano Ghisolfi e Sara Grippo - LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Eric Albertini - YOU AND THE SKY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Adam Ondra - OVERWHELMING ONDRA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 Rolando and Alessandro Larcher - NATURALLY LARCHER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 VALLE DEI LAGHI: FREE CLIMBING WILL SPEAK TO FAMILIES... AND NOT ONLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 402 Valerio Ballardini - BOLT BY BOLT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 618 Flavio Cainelli e Ornella Ganarin - EASY GOING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 682

10


BOLZANO 112 111

A22

109 110

Cles

108

MADONNA DI CAMPIGLIO

107 106 ANDALO

101

SS421

105 Molveno 104 103

94 93

96

99 100 SS237

SS421

78

124

81 82 121 113-117 79 122 102 83-86 44-47 TRENTO 118119 80 87-90 120 40-43 39 67 123 91 68 34-38 69 29-33 70 28 71

95 98 97

77 76 75

92

27 74 72 73

SP84

3 26 DRO 52 8-9 10-18 51 1-2 4-7 19-25

A22

126 125 127

ARCO

50

RIVA DEL GARDA 56 63 62 57 54 55 48 58 53

49

59-61

PERGINE VALSUGANA

129128 ROVERETO 131 132 133

64 65 66

135

130

136 134

SS45bis

Lago di Garda

11


INDEX ACCORDING TO EXPOSURE SOUTH

NORTH 39. Sarche - Toblino - Limarock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 111. Val di Non - Malosco - Fondo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 576 NORTH EAST 8. Laghel - L'orto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 19. San Paolo - Massi di Prabi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 82. Vezzano - Ranzo - Lon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452 NORTH WEST 25. Massone - Piccola Dallas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 91. Valli Giudicarie - Rendena - Comano . . . . . 486 118. Trento - Muro dei 70 scalini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 606 WEST 7. Laghel - Muro dell'asino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 10. Monte Colt - Red Point wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 49. Val di Ledro - Finale Ampola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 53. Nago - Torbole - Riva - Nago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 58. Nago - Torbole - Riva - Torbole . . . . . . . . . . . . 358 59. Nago - Torbole - Riva - Corno di Bò . . . . . . . 360 68. Valle Di Cavedine - Lagolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400 71. Valle Di Cavedine - Cavedine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416 72. Valle Di Cavedine - Area 51 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418 86. Vezzano - Ranzo - Drago zone . . . . . . . . . . . . 466 92. Valli Giudicarie - Val Lomasone . . . . . . . . . . 490 98. Valli Giudicarie - Col del Frate . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526 102. Banale - Molveno - Promeghin . . . . . . . . . . . . 542 107. Banale - Spormaggiore – Sasedei . . . . . . . . . 566 125. Rovereto - Cola grant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 646 126. Rovereto - Monte Scanuppia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 650 127. Rovereto - L’orrido . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 656 135. Rovereto - Piste dei dinosauri . . . . . . . . . . . . 696 WEST EAST 133. Rovereto - Eremo di San Colombano . . . . . 688

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4. Arco - Padaro - Placche di Baone . . . . . . . . . . . 72 21. Massone - Family San Martino . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 24. Massone - Grottosauro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 48. Val di Ledro - Regina del Lago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 55. Nago - Torbole - Passo San Giovanni . . . . . 344 56. Nago - Torbole - Riva - Belvedere . . . . . . . . . . 348 60. Nago - Torbole - Spiaggia delle lucertole . . 362 61. Nago - Torbole - Riva - Torbolino . . . . . . . . . . 366 63. Val di Gresta - Brentonico - Tassilandia . . . 372 64. Val di Gresta - Brentonico - Nomesino . . . . 378 66. Val di Gresta - Brentonico - Crosano . . . . . . 386 69. Valle Di Cavedine - San Siro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404 70. Valle Di Cavedine - La cosina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412 73. Valle Di Cavedine - Dos pela' . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420 76. Terlago - Canton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432 80. Terlago - Baselga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 442 97. Valli Giudicarie - Croz de le niere . . . . . . . . . . 520 108. Val di Non - Tor di Visione . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 570 109. Val di Non - San Romedio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 572 110. Val di Non - Verdes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 574 112. Val di Non - Mondino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 580 115. Trento - Makkiodromo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 596 116. Trento - Mescalisio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 598 117. Trento - Cartoon Network . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 602 119. Trento - Forti di Civezzano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 608 120. Trento - Celva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 622 128. Rovereto - Serrada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 660 129. Rovereto - Al castello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 666 131. Rovereto - Noriglio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 676 134. Rovereto - Acheni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 694 SOUTH EAST 1. 2. 22. 32. 40. 41.

Arco - Padaro - Padaro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Arco - Padaro - Le Piazzole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Massone - Massone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Dro - Pietramurata - Baule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 Sarche - Toblino - Ghess wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 Sarche - Toblino - Babilonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244


Agritur Ai Masi via GuĂ , 3/a Pergolese di Mandruzzo (TN) tel. +39 0461 564938 mob. +39 339 7210101 www.aimasi.it info@aimasi.it

agrituraimasi Agritur ai Masi


Index according to exposure

42. Sarche - Toblino - Bassilandia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 51. Tenno - Volta de' no' . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 57. Nago - Torbole - Marmitte dei Giganti . . . . 354 74. Valle Di Cavedine - Castello di Drena . . . . . . 422 75. Terlago - Terlago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428 77. Terlago - Monte Terlago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434 79. Terlago - Prada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 438 84. Vezzano - Ranzo - Margone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460 85. Vezzano - Ranzo - Herr wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464 93. Valli Giudicarie - Sunny place . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 100. Breguzzo - Cengio de la vecia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 532 103. Banale - Molveno - Nembia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 546 104. Banale - Molveno - Lago Nembia . . . . . . . . . . 548 106. Banale - Molveno - Cavedago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 558 SOUTH WEST 23. Massone - Terra Promessa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 52. Tenno - Sanderland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312 67. Valle Di Cavedine - Castel Madruzzo . . . . . . 396 87. Vezzano - Ranzo - La terrazza . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468 88. Vezzano - Ranzo - Il bersaglio . . . . . . . . . . . . . 470 89. Vezzano - Ranzo - Il Vaticano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472 90. Vezzano - Ranzo - Ranzo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476 113. Trento - Calisio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 590 114. Feudo - Drago nascosto - Lo scudo . . . . . . . 592 122. Trento - Bus de vela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 634 130. Rovereto - Zengio del far noter . . . . . . . . . . . . 672 132. Rovereto - La campana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 684 136. Rovereto - Pian del Levro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 702

15. San Paolo - Eremo di San Paolo . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 16. San Paolo - Diamante del BA.RO. . . . . . . . . . . 130 17. San Paolo - Swing Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 18. San Paolo - San Paolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 20. San Paolo - Sport roccia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 26. Dro - La fattoria degli struzzi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 27. Dro - Pietramurata - La pizzeria . . . . . . . . . . . 198 29. Dro - Pietramurata - Transatlantico . . . . . . 204 30. Dro - Pietramurata - Camerette . . . . . . . . . . 206 31. Dro - Pietramurata - Muro di chitarra . . . . . 210 33. Dro - Pietramurata - Giardino di Nato . . . . 214 34. Sarche - Toblino - Sisyphos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 35. Sarche - Toblino - Athos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 36. Sarche - Toblino - Sarche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 37. Sarche - Toblino - La panoramica . . . . . . . . . 232 38. Sarche - Toblino - Il posto delle fragole . . . 236 44. Sarche - Toblino - Santa Massenza . . . . . . . . 272 45. Sarche - Toblino - Climax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 46. Il giardino delle occasioni perdute . . . . . . . . 280 47. Sarche - Toblino - La finestra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 50. Val di Ledro - Futur Ampola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 62. Nago - Torbole - Deep Water Soloing . . . . . 368 65. Val di Gresta - Brentonico - Besagno . . . . . . 382 78. Terlago - Vigol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440 81. Vezzano - Teatro delle marionette . . . . . . . 448 94. Valli Giudicarie - Riobianco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 504 95. Valli Giudicarie - Val d’Algone . . . . . . . . . . . . . 506 99. Valli Giudicarie - Tione - Brevine . . . . . . . . . . . 530 105. Banale - Molveno - Molveno S. Antonio . . . 552 121. Trento - La vela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 628 124. Trento - Zambana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 640

EAST VARIOUS Arco - Padaro - Mandrea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Arco - Padaro - Bus de la Stria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Laghel - Calvario . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Laghel - Salt de la cavra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Monte Colt - Monte Colt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Monte Colt - Pizarra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Monte Colt - Ottava meraviglia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Monte Colt - Ceniga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122

28. 43. 54. 83. 96. 101. 123.

Dro - Pietramurata - Massi di Gaggiolo . . 200 Sarche - Toblino - La gola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Nago - Torbole - Massi delle Traole . . . . . . . . 338 Vezzano - Coel dela val dela porta . . . . . . . . . 456 Valli Giudicarie - Rendena - Coltura . . . . . . . 512 Valli Giudicarie - Rendena - Ai Brentei . . . . . 536 Trento - Vason . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 638

Nomesino, Camilla Piva, Les Prestige, 7b+ (© Sara Grippo)

14

3. 5. 6 9. 11. 12. 13. 14.


15


SARCA VALLEY The Sarca Valley runs along most of the land which this climbing Guidebook writes about. It runs through the Limarò canyon, through Picol Dain and Grande Dain, it wets the medium and lower part of the Valley till it ends into Lake Garda. But once, during the quaternary period, the river Sarca did not exist. The Valley was covered by an enormous expanse of ice which reached an altitude of 1700 metres. To the north of Trento it deviated towards west through the saddle of Terlago, to then flow into the Valle dei Laghi (Valley of Lakes) and reach the Po Valley. This solid torrent, the Atesino glacier, was among the largest during that period and Sarca Valley – from which it comes from – holds still to this day numerous signs of its passage and its erosive action. The mirrors of water, large and small, in the higher part, which nowadays form the so called Valle dei Laghi (with the lakes of Cavedine, Lagolo, BagatolSolo, S.Massenza, Toblino, Lamar, Santo, Terlago) are an example. Just like the Marocche, three large land slides which begun during the post-glacial period and are situated in the lower part of the Sarca Valley. Marking its boundary to the east from Monte Casale and Monte Brento, and to the west of the slopes of Monte Bondone, this enormous rocky expanse which looks a bit like an arid moonscape, consisting of 187 million cubic square metres and range from Cavedine Lake to the town of Dro, is the most imposing phenomena found in all of the Alps, and has been made Biotope (250 hectares) by the Province of Trento. Even the Marmitte dei Giganti talk of that primordial period: enormous karst pot holes, carved out by glacial meltwater combined with stones and sand. Along the panoramic road which joins Nago to Torbole, proof of these features can be observed near the crag of Marmitte dei Giganti; accompanied by views of striated and smooth rock often looking over the expanse of Lake Garda, it too formed by the ice cold mass. But it is not only the Atesino to have left marks of ancient passages here. The towns of the Valley recount ancient tales. Arco with its castle, among the most striking of medieval forts found in the Alps; its parks and gardens, the Liberty style villas and buildings of the Renaissance. The area which Albert the Archduke of Germany chose as his winter abode erecting the Archduke villa, surrounded by the magnificent arboretum. Dro, medieval historic centre one of the most ancient communities in

16

the Sarca Valley: has winding alleys, the beautiful gates of carved out stone, the tower and the small arches. And more…the other Castles: Drena from the XII century, which overlooks the Valley and the Marocche; Castel Madruzzo, of medieval and Renaissance times which overlooks the plains of Lasino. Castel Toblino (today site of a restaurant and bar, but rare example in Trentino of a lacustrine fortification); the Rocca di Riva, one of the very few medieval forts situated inside the historic centre and today headquarters to the Civic Museum and an art gallery… They all narrate the story of another passage, of man, who today like yesterday, has modified and modifies the face of the Valley pervading in its alpine nature which at the same time is Mediterranean. All you have to do is look onto those splendid terraced slopes with stone walls, scattered with olive trees which are the heritage of gestures and secrets of ancient farming. Dwelling on the plain, along the course of the Sarca river up to the shores of Lake Garda, where the community has grown grapes, apples, kiwis and plums. Observe the slopes of the mountains above, where chestnut trees and conifers speak of colder temperatures and snow. Look around, this Valley has a thousand facets. We will discover the majestic grey herons and swans soaring. We will learn to follow the tidy geometries that wild geese and coots draw when from the lakes and the river Sarca they take off to touch the sky. We could glimpse a few birds of prey in flight. And in the waters we will recognize the darting of carps, graylings, tench and trout. In this variety of landscapes which the Sarca Valley offers us, the chance to experience nature while practising outdoors activities is never ending. Not only climbing, but mountain biking, walking, base jumping, paragliding canyoning; and on the water of Lake Garda, windsfuring and sailing. Activities which during the winter months go well with skiing and snow shoeing up the slopes of Monte Bondone or Monte Stivo or even the nearby Brenta Dolomites. The Sarca Valley gives us 365 days of sport. An invaluable gift which calls over passionate sportsmen and woman from all over the world. Without ever forgetting that everything began here. From the Atesino glacier, which thanks to its flow, has modelled and caressed rock walls and valleys, a crib which has no equal, creating for us gems to love and preserve.


SALEWA.COM

17


ROAD ACCESS AND USEFUL NUMBERS Access By Road Depending on the area covered, we have identified common points of departure and calculated the distances from there. All information has been updated as of April 2018, but we cannot guarantee that the viability remains unchanged. The choice of parking places has been made to respect private property as well as viability. Arco - Dro - Valle dei Laghi - Riva del Garda Nago - Torbole - Val di Ledro – Tenno - Valle di Cavedine - Terlago – Ranzo Arco is the point of departure for the crags in the above locations, precisely the bridge over the river Sarca (with a large car park) which is easy to find. Arriving from the motorway A22 Modena-Brennero: exit Rovereto Sud – Lago di Garda Nord. Follow directions for Lago di Garda. After Nago, turn right at the roundabout and follow directions for Arco, approx. 22 km. Arriving from the A22 motorway Brennero-Modena: exit Trento Centro. Following directions for Strada Statale 45 bis Gardesana Arco-Riva del Garda until you reach Arco. Approx. 35 km. Valli Giudicarie The departure point for almost all the crags in this area is Sarche, at the junction for Madonna di Campiglio. Arriving from the A22 motorway Modena-Brennero: exit Rovereto Sud – Lago di Garda Nord. Follow directions for Lago di Garda. At the Nago roundabout turn right following directions for Arco. At the successive roundabouts, keep to the right heading towards Trento (Strada statale 45 bis) until Sarche. Approximately 38 km. Arriving from the A22 motorway Brennero-Modena: exit Trento Centro. Follow directions for the Strada Statale 45 Bis Gardesana Arco-Riva del Garda as far as Sarche, approx. 19 km. Molveno – Val di Non The point of departure for the crags of Nembia, Lago Nembia, Molveno, Cavedago, Spormaggiore, Vigo Di Ton, San Romedio, Verdes, Malosco-Fondo, Mondino

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is the motorway exit of San Michele- Mezzocorona on the A22 Modena-Brennero (Brennero-Modena). Rovereto and surrounding areas The departure point for the crags in this area is the motorway exit at Rovereto Sud of the A22 Modena Brennero (Brennero-Modena). Trento and surrounding areas The departure point for the crags in this area is the Trento Centro exit of the A22 motorway ModenaBrennero (Brennero-Modena). Useful telephone information

numbers

and

tourist

Tourist Organisations Azienda per il turismo GARDA TRENTINO s.p.a. Viale delle Palme 1 - 38062 Arco (TN) Phone +39 0464532 255 www.gardatrentino.it - info@gardatrentino.it Azienda per il turismo GARDA TRENTINO s.p.a. Via Lungolago Conca d’oro 25 - 38069 Torbole (TN) Phone +39 0464505177 www.gardatrentino.it - info@gardatrentino.it Azienda per il turismo GARDA TRENTINO s.p.a. Lg. Medaglie D’oro al Valor Militare 5 - 38066 Riva del Garda (TN) Phone +39 0464554444 www.gardatrentino.it - info@gardatrentino.it Consorzio Pro Loco Valle dei Laghi Trento Monte Bondone Via Roma 63 – Vezzano 38096 – Vallelaghi (TN) Phone +39 0461864400 valledeilaghi@unplitrentino.it Azienda per il turismo Trento, Monte Bondone, Valle dei Laghi Via Roma 63 - 38096 Vallelaghi (TN) Phone +39 0461216050 www.discovertrento.it - info@discovertrento.it


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Azienda per il turismo Rovereto e Vallagarina Piazza Rosmini 16 - 38068 Rovereto (TN) Phone +39 0464430363 - Fax +39 0464435528 www.visitrovereto.it - info@visitrovereto.it Azienda per il turismo Trento, Monte Bondone, Valle dei Laghi P.za Dante 24 – 38122 Trento (TN) Phone +39 0461216000 www.discovertrento.it - info@discovertrento.it Azienda per il turismo Terme di Comano - Dolomiti di Brenta Via Cesare Battisti 74 – 38077 Comano Terme (TN) Phone +39 0465702626 www.visitacomano.it - info@visitacomano.it Consorzio per il Turismo Giudicarie Centrali Via D. Chiesa, 3 - 38079 Tione di Trento (TN) Phone +39 0465323090 www.visitgiudicarie.it - info@visitgiudicarie.it

Azienda per il Turismo Dolomiti Paganella Piazza Dolomiti, 1 - 38010 Andalo (TN) Phone +39 0461585836 www.visitdolomitipaganella.it info@visitdolomitipaganella.it Azienda per il Turismo Valle di Non Via Roma 21 - 38013 Fondo (TN) Phone +39 0463830133 www.visitvaldinon.it - info@visitvaldinon.it Emergency Telephone Numbers There is only one general emergency number NUE 112 Carabinieri 112 Police 113 Fire 115 Environmental emergency 1515 Health Emergency 118 ACI Roadside Assistance 116 CIS Traffic information 1518 A22 Brennero Motorway 800 279940 (from Germany, Austria, Netherlands: 00-800-22022022).

Massone, Giovanni Zaccaria, Cannabis, 7b+(© Giovanni Danieli)

A g r i t ur M i c he lot t i appartamenti turistici - Ferienwohungen

Apartments for 2-6 people – free wifi-air – conditioning – satellite tv – free MTBs available Agritur Michelotti  Via Soccesure, 2 Arco www.agrmic.it  info@agrmic.it  Tel. +39 0464 516272  Tel\Whatsapp +39 3442413419


BIBLIOGRAPHY Emanuelli Giuliano, Calzà Sergio (a cura di), Vie di roccia e grotte dell’Alto Garda, S.A.T Sez. Arco 1983 Bassi Roberto, Arrampicare in Valle di Sarca: sul bianco calcare di Arco e dintorni, Zanichelli 1984 Depretto Diego, Guida all’arrampicata sportiva nel Basso Sarca, Alto Garda 1987 Horhager Gerhard, Muller Wolfgang, Arco-Topos: Kletterführer, Odysee Alpinverlag 1987 Depretto Diego, Arco: le nuove falesie d’arrampicata, Società degli Alpinisti Tridentini 1990 Depretto Diego, Guida all’arrampicata sulle Placche Zebrate, Società degli Alpinisti Tridentini 1991 Heinkel Matthias, Klettern am Gardasee (vom Gardasee bis nach Sarche), Heinkel 1991, Heinkel 1993 Depretto Diego, Arco falesie: le nuove falesie d’arrampicata, Editore Higas 1994, 1996 Manzana Loris, Arco: guida di arrampicata, Ed. La Grafica 1995, 1997 Depretto Diego, Arco falesie: i luoghi dell’arrampicata sportiva, Edizioni Adventures 1999 Rabanser Ivo, Alpinismo tra gli olivi: arrampicate scelte in Valle del Sarca, Centro del Libro (IS) 2001 Camerini Fausto, Stenghel Giuliano, Il grido del Gabbiano, Associazione Serenella Onlus 2001 Camerini Fausto, Stenghel Giuliano, Il Garda verticale, ZetaBeta Editrice srl 2002 Filippi Diego, Pareti del Sarca. Vie classiche e moderne nella valle del Sarca, Versante Sud 2002, 2007 Meisl Michael, Lochner Martin, Arco-Klettern vom Gardasee bis zur Brenta, Lochner-Verlag 2005 Manica Mario, Cicogna Antonella, Negretti Davide, Falesie di Arco, Versante Sud 2006 Haladaj Mateuz, Arco Boulder Guidebook, Wydawnictwo Gory, 2009 Haladaj Mateuz, Arco New Sector Guidebook, Wydawnictwo Gory, 2009 Manica Mario, Cicogna Antonella, Negretti Davide, Falesie di Arco 106 proposte, Versante Sud 2010 Grill Heinz, Arrampicare in Valle del Sarca, Idea Montagna Senettin Manuel, Hofer Thomas, Best of Arco, Vertical-Life 2013 Rabanser Ivo, Arrampicare in Valle del Sarca, Atesia 2013 Filippi Diego, Arco Pareti. Vie classiche moderne e sportive in Valle del Sarca, Versante Sud 2013 Senettin Manuel, Hofer Thomas, Arco Summer Spots, Vertical-Life 2013 Manica Mario, Cicogna Antonella, Negretti Davide, Arco Falesie 113 proposte, Versante Sud 2015 Alessio Conz, Trento Falesie, Ed. Effe e Erre – Trento, 2016 Matteo Pavana, Sport climbing in Arco, Vertical-Life 2017

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SALEWA.COM

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THE HISTORY OF SINGLE-PITCH ROUTES IN THE SARCA VALLEY AND HER SURROUNDINGS by Antonella Cicogna

There are hundreds of routes carving through the rocks of this land and which this Guide narrates. Time goes by with the clanking of quickdraws, by the calls of encouragement of who follows their climbing partner whilst climbing a delicate move. A sip of water, a handful of dried fruit. Off we go! Back on track skinning one’s fingers, pumped forearms, and throwing oneself on blazing dynamic moves. The crags with single pitches in the Sarca Valley and her surroundings is something that the younger generation has always known. This is a fact. However, everything had a beginning. An instant in which the flair of its creator moved to the genesis of what today has become among the most famous climbing areas in Europe and in the world. For that reason this guide book cannot be written without trying to remember where everything began. From alpinism obviously. But better still, from a change of prospective in alpinism. Starting from the thirties, and for a few decades, it is in fact on the rock faces of the lower Sarca area that one’s glance will stop in search of new lines: long, alpine style. The first routes in the area were born on the mounts Casale, Caima Capi, Piccolo Dain, Brento. Climbers such as Marino Stenico, Bruno Detassis and Pino Fox in the thirties; Cesare Maestri in the fifties; Heinz Steinkotter and Heini Holzer during the sixties. But the rock faces will not be visited by many climbers quite yet, even repetitions will not be often made. Then, at the beginning of the seventies, climbers, especially the local climbers from the Trentino area, will start to appreciate the area and visit it more systematically. New routes on Brento and Piccolo Dain will be opened, as well as on Parete Zebrata, at Cime alle Coste…Among the leading characters Beppi Loss, Andrea Andreotti, Marcello Rossi and Franco Gadotti. 1972 and 1982 The turning point: Colodri east face and Specchio delle mie brame In 1972, exactly on the 1st October of that year, something happens. The alpinists Ugo and Mauro Ischia, Giuliano Emanuelli and Fabio Calzà from Arco realize the potential of Monte Colodri, the local moun-

24

tain, and open Umberta Bertamini, the first route on the east face. The route up the east face of Colodri in the vertical panorama is a first, it is a turning point for the future development of single pitches in Valle del Sarca. From here onwards the east face will in fact be covered by new beautiful lines; through time it will collect the intuitions of many other climbers among these Giuliano Stenghel, Luigi Giacomelli, Franco Zenatti, Giovanni Groaz, Roberto Bassi, Heinz Mariacher, Manolo Maurizio Zanolla, Renzo Vettori, Giorgio Vaccari… The difficulties will increase, routes such as Tyszkyewicz (1976), Renata Rossi (1979), White Crack (1979) will appear… And in 1982, always on Colodri, a new turning point: the first sports climbing route opened from above in the Sarca Valley. Its name is Specchio delle mie brame, a variant of Renata Rossi. The authors are Roberto Bassi and Heinz Mariacher. The two climbers place a bolt to open the route. Beginning of the eighties Single pitch routes in the vertical vocabulary, Honky Tonky, full on bolting Between 1982 and 1984, as well as the continuous development of multi pitch routes at Monte Casale, Cima alle Coste, in Mandrea, Colodri on Parete Zebrata with increasingly sustained difficulties, another change of scene occurs. The terrain on which these challenges are tackled lower down on “sea level”, the difficulties are concentrated along a few dozen metres. Single pitch routes become the new word in the vocabulary of climbing. A close-knit group of climbers contribute to this development, they already climb on Colodri: Mariacher, Bassi. With them Luisa Iovane, Manolo Aldo Leviti…. Entirely bolted the new route Honky Tonky at Spiaggia delle Lucertole is born, equipped by Bassi and Mauro De Gasperi. New modern crags in a modern sense are born: Nuovi Orizzonti, San Paolo, Swing Area, Spiaggia delle Lucertole. On lines which still to this day are true masterpieces of 7a, 7b and 7c, rocky jewels for those who have perfect footwork and confidence climbing on slabs, the first rules of sports climbing thus develop. Routes will be graded


following the grading scale used in France, where sports climbing has already begun to flourish. Climbing ethics will have a new type of flavour: you can only climb from the ground up without resting, and if you fall you have to start all over again. New smeary climbing shoes, step after step, will follow the progress of climbing in the Valley. Chalk, sit harnesses and tight trousers begin to appear. Mid eighties La Gola, Massone, and the first overhangs If part of the historic group of climbers (Manolo, Mariacher, Iovane) leave Arco, near the end of 1984 Roberto Bassi discovers La Gola in Toblino (Guardrail). In the meantime another crag in the area of Arco will be part of climbers’ lives thanks to the intuition of Giovanni Groaz and Danny Zampiccoli: Massone. And it will be thanks to Diego Depretto (who in the meantime will develop Colodri South and will continue bolting Nuovi Orizzonti, which began thanks to Aldo Leviti and Renato Bernard, very busy) that many sectors of this incredible bastion of golden coloured rock will develop. With an ever increasing offer of single pitch routes of varying difficulties, the Sarca Valley will become a well known and popular area for climbers from all over the world. The Remy brothers, Jerry Moffat, Ron Fawcett, Wolfgang Güllich, Patrick Edlinger all come to try and open new routes… New ideas and experiences, new styles will contaminate climbing in the Valley. As well as slab climbing, overhang climbing starts to develop. And the drill will be introduced as part of the equipment needed to open routes. C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Mid 80’s-1990 Sport Roccia 86; the first free ascents from 8a to 8b+ 1986: is the second year that a climbing competition is held in Italy. After Bardonecchia it is now the turn of the Sarca Valley, in tandem with Bardonecchia. Below Colodri (Sport Roccia 86) 150 challengers will take part in the competition which will see Patrick Edlinger win. It will be the rock stadium of the Rock Master (born from an idea developed by Mario Morandini, Ennio Lattisi, Sergio Calzà, Giuliano Emanuelli, Giuseppe Filippi, Angelo Seneci, Albino Marchi – first edition 1987). But it is not the only new happening. The group of climbers, route openers and those discovering the new crags in the Valley continues to grow. Rolando Larcher, Danilo Bonvecchio, Diego Mabboni, Giorgio Manica...And


The history of single-pitch routes in the Sarca Valley, and her surroundings

the vertical ferment promoted by them will bring precious fruition. Larcher, in 1986, will free in September Elephant Baby 8a at San Paolo and in November Gravity Games 8a+ (today 8b/+ because it was modified by Legrand) at the Eremo of San Paolo. These are the first routes to be chipped in the Valley, but above all it is the first 8a’s and 8a+s. The successive year Larcher during springtime will climb his first natural 8a: Fafifurni, bolted by Angelo Giovannetti at Passo San Giovanni. At La Gola, with the free ascent of Futura 8b (today 8a+), Bassi will prove once again to be the undisputed magician of slabs, while new crags will carve the stage extending the panorama of single pitch routes from south to north of the Valley. Bassi discovers Santa Massenza, Stefano Pegoretti San Siro. Both crags will develop thanks to Danilo Bonvecchio, who discovered and bolted the magnificent Terlago. On the other side, Nomesino in Val di Gresta, born thanks to the intuition of Ermanno Dossi and Giuliano Dorigatti, becomes a great hit among the top climbers. Larcher in 1988 will free the 8b Energia = MC2. Diego Depretto discovers Nago and begins to bolt it, with the successive intervention of Luigi Colò in the upper section. The eighties will end with the free ascent in February 1989 of Maratona 8b+ (now 8b) by Larcher at Massone (first route in the Il Pueblo sector in 1987) and Mojado 8b/+ by Bassi at La Gola. The first routes of that difficulty in the Valley. 1990-1995 From the first 8b+ to the first 9a of the Sarca Valley. Bolting, and re bolting… The first 8b+ of the Valley is registered on Super Maratona thanks again to Larcher (1991), while the activity of opening and bolting new crags and routes will continue simultaneously with the ever increasing turnout of climbers equipped even with gri-gris. Massone, Nago, Spiaggia delle Lucertole, San Siro, Baone, Passo San Giovanni, Crosano, are fixed and re-bolted thanks to Arco Roc and Depretto and Camillo Mattei. Bassi and his friends in 1994 all together will start to re bolt La Gola. The climbers are Bonvecchio, Larcher, Marco Curti, Andrea Turri, Andrea Stenico. All under the name Gruppo Sisyphos, Just like the King of Corinth Sisyphos, condemned by Zeus to the never ending and onerous task of stopping the course of an enormous boulder which

26

rolls down without respite from one side of the mountain to the other. The crags in fact have been discovered, but they need to be bolted then re-bolted to maintain their state. A very costly affair, and practically everything is paid from the bolter’s own pocket. A never ending affair, never ending just like Sisyphos’s. And when Bassi will lose his life in a road accident that same year, Sisyphos will go on for a few more years thanks to the energy and spirit of its founder. In 1995 Fabio Leoni, Roland Galvagni, Daniele Lira, Michele Cagol and many others will be part of the group. In the shop Vertical Sport which Leoni has recently inaugurated at Pietra Murata money is collected for the projects of creating new crags, and for re-bolting the new crags. New sectors are born: Transatlantico, Muro di Chitarra, Giardino di Nato, il Diamante del BA.RO, the wall of Sisyphos, Camerette, Cavedine, Lon. Bonvecchio bolts Margone and Cavedine. La Gola will continue to grow… Many of the crags are opened on private land, and it is also thanks to the availability of the land owners who confide in climbers’ good manners that climbing on single pitches will continue to offer an increasingly and ever growing panorama to mixed group of climbers. The large overhangs bolted by Depretto in the upper part of Massone in 1993 attract an increasingly large number of climbers, while overhangs become popular among the top climbers. From 1995 to the end of the millennium Terra Promessa is born, il Pueblo grows. And what seems like the first 9a is climbed Reinhold Scherer and François Legrand will form during the second half of the nineties a winning partnership. It is thanks to Scherer that in 1995 the overhanging sector of Terra Promessa is bolted, Reini’s Vibes 8c/+ and Claudio Caffè 8c/+, freed by Legrand while he prepared for the ’97 Rock Master which he went on to win, are the maximum difficulties in the Valley at the moment. But just one year later, Massone will register another record in the history of climbing. Manfred Stuffer on Underground, a route which requires great athletic strength on nice holds to be held for a number of minutes. The line starts from the bowels of the earth with difficult boulder sequences which lead to an enormous overhang. It seems to be the first 9a in the Valley and awaits repetitions to confirm its grade. The millennium ends with new crags. Among these Red Point Wall:


OFFICIAL RESOLER

OFFICIAL RESOLER


The history of single-pitch routes in the Sarca Valley, and her surroundings 28

while a beautiful crag overlooking Toblino Lake is dedicated to Roberto Bassi: Bassilandia. Fabio Leoni and Gianguido Dalfovo bolt the majority of the routes, but even Larcher, Curti, Lino Celva, Michele Cagol take part in the bolting. All well known names in the Valley, climbers who climb, bolt and repeat. The crags of Sarche and Limarock are born. Bonvecchio goes ahead with a project which started some time ago and develops into Climax. A thousand more 2000-2009: New free ascents of overhangs and slabs, reaching 8c+/9a Giampaolo Calzà rebolts San Paolo and the Pilastro delle Vergini. Sauro Merighi will discover and bolt the crags of Grottosauro and Ottava Meraviglia; Gianguido Dalfovo and Lino Celva bolt La Pizzeria. Bonvecchio and Simone Banal will concentrate their energies on the new sector at Ranzo, adding new routes to Limarock and rebolting Santa Massenza (together with Fabio Leoni). The great wall of Tassilandia, with Verdon style routes on compact and grey rock of medium difficulty, Narango, is bolted by Domenico Tonelli and partners, offering climbers a breath taking view over the basin of Nago and the Upper Garda area. The difficult cave of Coel dela Val dela Porta will be added (Larcher, Bonvecchio and partners) requiring endurance and finger strength on overhangs. And new difficult free ascents will enter the vertical history of this area. In 2003 Christian Bindhammer signs Zauber Fee 8c+, to the small but super difficult and super overhanging crag Eremo di San Paolo. During that year it is the Valley’s second most difficult route (first free ascent by Angela Eiter in 2014). Gianguido Dalfovo, the specialist of difficult routes on vertical walls and slabs in 2005 at Bassilandia will free Compañero 8b. But we will have to wait another three years to see the first 8c+/9a. In the meantime Nicolas Favresse will free Biologico 8a+, the most difficult trad/bolt route in the Valley of the moment, which he will open two minutes from Eremo di San Paolo. And then in 2008 Andreas Bindhammer will climb St.Anger 8c/9a+, always at Eremo, making a dream come true which he has been working on. Difficulties above 8b and two sequences which according to Bindhammer, reach the 8th grade on the bouldering scale of difficulty. Other great projects will be climbed. A few bolted some years earlier by Roberto Bassi himself. This

is the case of Madame doc 8b, on the smooth wall of Pezzent Area (Gola di Toblino) freed in 2008 by Cristian Giovannini. Always in 2008 on an extraordinary rock face covered in edges, Favresse will free an old project of Bonvecchio, Thin Ice (Terlago). This route in 2009, will be repeated a few days one from the other, by Riccardo Scarian, Manolo and Gianguido Dalfovo, confirming the beauty and grading it 8c. In April of 2009, Riccardo Scarian will climb Adidas 8b+at Coel dela Val dela Porta, which in a few years time has become one of the reference points for strong climbers in the area of Arco. In the meantime, the scene of climbers who are able to enjoy the crags in the Valley is offering a variegated and flowing mix of people, with a continuous increase of foreign climbers. Other crags develop thanks to the initiative of private bolters. Among these Piccola Dallas and the nice Babilonia (Leoni), Castello di Drena and Mandrea (Merighi). While Regina del Lago, near Lake Ledro and Riva del Garda, and Belvedere in the lower sector (sector B) contribute to increasing the easier routes in Valle del Sarca. In 2009 the six administrative offices of Garda Trentino, directed by the Azienda di Promozione Turistica (now Garda), established a permanent work table to plan the development of infrastructures for sports and outdoor activities. That is how the Outdoor Park Garda Trentino (OPGT) project is born, which sees among other things the upkeep and enhancement of some crags in the Lower Sarca area (developing the work which had started years before thanks to the administrative offices in the year 2000 with a programme that had been developed during the end of the eighties). The crags which are included in the OPGT are the following; Massone, Massi di Prabi, Placche di Baone, Muro dell’Asino, Calvario, Nago, Belvedere, Corno di Bo, Spiaggia delle lucertole, Passo San Giovanni. Baone enters the project “Crags without barriers” and will make it possible for disabled people to access the crags. 2010 – 2014 Top challenges: Nago, Bus de la Stria, Coel dela Val dela Porta, Grottosauro, La Gola, Padaro Nago returns to the headlines with Bucking Bronco, No Hope Goat Farm, Warbeast: three 8c+ routes opened and freed by the German Markus Bock who on the boulder where Rolando Larcher bolted and freed the Mangusta, 8c, and on the nearby boulders


he opened new lines for those who love bouldery routes. At Bus de la Stria instead, Bock frees MG Conection 8b+ at the new sector Hotel Olivo. The Austrian Gerhard Hörhager developed it, he will go on to free Pappataci and Conti d’Arco (8b), other top climbers such as David Lama visit the crag (he frees Liftscheisser which is 8b) and Adam Ondra (one of the projects is his). Overhangs once again take over the scene. Larcher had already made the FA of Patagonia 8b/c, at Coel dela Val dela Porta frees Amen-Patagonia 8b+. While at Grottosauro Paolo Bnevenuti frees Insostenibile debolezza dell’essere 8c, which for years had remained one of Larcher’s projects. But Dalfovo goes back to the origins of climbing and at La Gola bolts and frees in 2013 L’orizzonte degli eventi 8b/c. And while the strong climber Silvio Reffo repeats in one day Bucking Bronco and Warbeast, the challenges increase on the immense bastion of Padaro (initially born thanks to the intuition of Diego and Mauro Mabboni, then bolted by the Germans Holger Brink and Olaf Zeddies). It is Paolo Benvenuti who develops most of the new, difficult routes here, freed by him, such as Enhorabuena and Matasanos (both

8b+). For those who love winter climbing, instead, the area of Ranzo opens the doors to new crags. Among these Il Vaticano thanks to the initiative of Bonvecchio, Celva, Banal, Alessandro Lucchi and Larcher. The vertical panorama “parallel” to the Sarca Valley is for ever growing. Here and there, with grades and difficulties to satisfy everyone. Roni Andres and Alessandro Gandolfo dedicate their energies to the great walls of Volta de’ No’ and add some great high difficulty routes. Here they free Svolta di no’ 8b+, Scatush 8b, Comunque dada 8b+ (Alessandro); Set me free 8b+ (Roni). Valerio Ballardini ups the level just outside Trento. He is the father of Bus de Vela (Cadine): forty one routes of high level, half of which from 8b upwards, and many signed by Gabriele Moroni. Valerio dedicates his time also to Forti di Civezzano, then to Monte Terlago, Prada, in many pitches Luca Forti follows him. On Monte Calisio, Trento, there is the group of Drunken Climber, Cristiano Casagranda is their representative. Among their great discoveries, the crag of Mescalisio, at Monte Calisio, with fun routes from 6a to 6b. Without forgetting the walls like Celva, historical, opened when climbing

29


The history of single-pitch routes in the Sarca Valley

outside the Sarca Valley seemed impossible. And it was here that Rolando Larcher had freed one of the first Italian 8c’s L’arte di salire in alto in January 1990 (bolted by Angelo Giovannetti). It is here that since twenty five years from his first climb, Roland frees in 2006 the route 25°, always 8c. And the wall of Celva has some surprises (keep on reading). 2015 – 2018 The turning point: four 9a’s three 9a+, two 9b’s are climbed. If Underground has been graded 8c+/9a for quite some time now by the climbers who have repeated it, during March 2015 the turning point with a capital T will occur in terms of difficulty. Stefano Ghisolfi climbs Under Vibes, 40 metres, 9a: it starts from Underground and comes out onto Reini’s Vibes. Massone is still the king. But Under Vibes will not be the only 9a that year. During November another 9a will be climbed, this time by Gabriele Moroni at Nago: Sid Lives. Just over a year will pass before the Valley can celebrate another new 9a. It is the 16th December 2016. It is Stefano Ghisolfi once again who signs this new

chapter, at Pueblo with Thunder Ribes. Just a few days later, on the 19th December in the history of this crag the first 9a + will appear with Ultimatum, always climbed by Stefano. In the meantime, awareness is increasing among the local administrations, that climbing is a resource for the local economy. Not only by those who have signed the project Outdoor Park Garda Trentino (even the Comunità di Valle Alto Garda and Ledro, and the Comune di Ledro join) and new crags dedicated to families are being developed (Massi del Gaggiolo, Family San Martino, Family Dòs Pelà, Massi delle Traole). Now institutionally we are moving further north of the territory. The Comunità della Valle dei Laghi has joined forces with the communes of Madruzzo, Vallelaghi and Cavedine, to enhance a few of the vertical assets in the territory. The historic crag of La Gola will be entirely re bolted and new routes of contained difficulties will be added. With a great job of cleaning and bolting, the wall at Castel Madruzzo is born with the aim of sustaining climbing on medium-easy grades. Other projects are awaiting to be officially presented. It is true team work between the “Palace” and those who work daily in

Spiaggia delle Lucertole, Claudio Migliorini e Andrea Calzà (© Giampaolo Calzà)

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outdoor sports and on the field. With Simone Banal, who in this field has a precious role of raising awareness. And if the number of family users grows, now sustained increasingly by public financing, the crags which have been discovered, bolted and rebolted by private individuals (and this is the majority) don’t stop. And the private individuals, as always are not subsidised, if not by their great passion and generosity. Everything comes out of their pocket (or almost). To the tireless Merighi goes the merit of having urged THE turning point at Padaro, now among the most climbed rock face in the Valley on high difficulties. And it is here that Ghisolfi, who has moved permanently in the Sarca Valley from Turin, during mid March of 2017 climbed Omen Nomen 9a for the first time in the Gotico Sector. There are many bolters. They open, they bolt and they free. New faces and non. There are routes bolted by Michel Ghezzi at Ghess Wall and the numerous beautiful routes which Michel opens in the sectors to the left of Bassilandia. Andres and Gandolfo will open the wall of Pizarra, in the woods above the San Paolo rock face, between Ottava Meraviglia and Colt with routes up to 8c.

There is no point in saying that other new First Ascents on slabs and overhangs (see dedicated page) will enter with full right in the vertical registry office of the Valley (and not only) even for the year 2017. Here we wish to remind everyone of two projects which were bolted over twenty years ago by Bassi, freed respectively by the determined Dalfovo in the nice crag of Santa Massenza (Via Gilette, ottobre 2017) and by Peter Moser in the nice crag of Celva (Progetto Bassi, February 2017). This last one is probably the most difficult technical pitch on vertical wall in the entire Guide book. 2017 will be also remembered for the Laghel wall, which will definitively enter the vocabulary of the big league with the first 9b here. And it will happen with Queen Line: 17 super intense moves which Adam Ondra will climb as a F.A. on the 18th April. And it will be on these rocks that a few days later Stefano Ghisolfi will free One Punch 9a+. Followed by One Slap 9b yet again by Ondra. During the first few months of 2018 Il Pueblo will play a key role with the free ascent of Puro Dreaming 9a and Puro Dreaming Plus 9a+ once again by Ondra.

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F.A. OF THE HARDEST ROUTES 9b

Laghel*

Adam Ondra

QUEEN LINE

9b

Laghel*

Adam Ondra

ONE PUNCH

9a+

Laghel*

Stefano Ghisolfi

ULTIMATUM

9a+

Massone

Stefano Ghisolfi

PURO DREAMING PLUS

9a+

Massone

Adam Ondra

OMEN NOMEN

9a

Padaro

Stefano Ghisolfi

THUNDER VIBES

9a

Massone

Stefano Ghisolfi

UNDER VIBES

9a

Massone

Stefano Ghisolfi

PURO DREAMING

9a

Massone

Adam Ondra

SID LIVES

8c+/9a

Massi delle Tarole

Gabriele Moroni

ST. ANGER

8c+/9a

Eremo Ddi San Paolo

Andreas Bindhammer

UNDERGROUND

8c+/9a

Massone

Manfred Stuffer

ZAUBER FEE

8c+/9a

Eremo di San Paolo

Christian Bindhammer

BUCKING BRONCO

8c+

Massi delle Tarole

Markus Bock

CLAUDIO CAFFE

8c+

Terra promessa

François Legrand

GOD HATE US ALL

8c+

Nago

Markus Bock

GOD HATE US ALL

8c+

Nago

Markus Bock

IL FRUTTO DEL DIAVOLO

8c+

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

L’ULTIMA REINI

8c+

Massone

Eric Albertini

ULTIMA PIETRA

8c+

Massone

Adam Ondra

X-LARGE

8c+

Massone

Stefan Fürst

IRMA

8c/+

Al Castello

Stefano Folgarait

NO HOPE GOAT FARM

8c/+

Nago

Markus Bock

REINI’S VIBES

8c/+

Massone

François Legrand

PROGETTO BASSI

8c?

Celva

Peter Moser

25° ANNIVERSAIO

8c

Celva

Rolando Larcher

AEREODROMO

8c

Terra promessa

François Legrand

BELLA REGIS

8c

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

BELZEBÙ CLIMBING TEAM

8c

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

BURIAN

8c

Al Castello

Stefano Folgarait

CORAZÓN INVERTIDO

8c

Padaro

Adam Ondra

CUORE DI MESTRUO

8c

Orme dei Dinosauri

Gabriele Moroni

EL CLINTO

8c

Al Castello

Stefano Folgarait

GAUCHO

8c

Pizarra

Roni Andres

ONE SLAP

32


guesthouse arco

Home Sweet Home living | training | home

holiday apartments for climbers (but not only) in Arco and Chiarano. 2 till 6 people FON +39 335 5241312 www.guesthouse-arco.com follow us facebook.com/guesthouse-arco

michael meisl


F.A. of the hardest routes

RIFLESSI

8c

Pizarra

Stefan Scarperi

HAPPY MILF

8c

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

INSOSTENIBILE DEBOLEZZA ...

8c

Grottosauro

Paolo Benvenuti

L’ARTE DI SALIRE IN ALTO

8c

Celva

Rolando Larcher

L’IRA DI DIO

8c

Al Castello

Stefano Folgarait

LA GABI

8c

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

MANGUSTA

8c

Nago

Rolando Larcher

NO MORE PASSION

8c

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

REINI FATATA

8c

Massone

Alfredo Weber

REINI MURATA

8c

Massone

Eric Albertini

TEAM COMPRESSION

8c

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

THIN ICE

8c

Terlago

Nicolas Favresse

TIGRE CONTRO TIGRE

8c

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

L’EREMITA

8b+/c

Padaro

Adam Ondra

MATASANOS

8b+/c

Padaro

Paolo Benvenuti

L’ORIZZONTE DEGLI EVENTI

8b/c

La gola

Gianguido Dalfovo

PATAGONIA

8b/c

Coel dela val dela porta

Rolando Larcher

SCOGLIO DI CAPRI

8b/c

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

ADIDAS

8b+

Coel dela val dela porta

Riccardo Scarian

AMEN–PATAGONIA

8b+

Coel dela val dela porta

Rolando Larcher

ATENE

8b+

Massone

François Legrand

La Cosina, Stefan Zelger, Elena, 5a (© Giampaolo Calzà)

34


BOMBO BALLA

8b+

Bus de Vela

Jacopo Larcher

COME MI VOGLIONO

8b+

Padaro

Paolo Benvenuti

COMUNQUE DADA

8b+

Volta de No’

Alessandro Gandolfo

EL SALT DE LA CAVRA

8b+

Al Castello

Stefano Folgarait

ENHORABUENA

8b+

Padaro

Paolo Benvenuti

GELATO AL CAFFÈ

8b+

Terra Promessa

Eric Albertini

HALEBOOP

8b+

Massone

Heinrich Pfostl

I RIFLESSI DEL ROSSO

8b+

Pizarra

IL VENTO DI TRAMONTANA

8b+

Orme dei Dinosauri

Nicola Parziani

L’ARTE DI SALIRE IN ALTO (Var.dx)

8b+

Celva

Rolando Larcher

LA PIETRA MURATA

8b+

Massone

Reinhold Scherer

MARCO GELATO

8b+

Terra promessa

Gerhard Hörhager

MG CONECTION

8b+

Bus de la stria

Markus Bock

MI TORMENTA

8b+

Celva

Rolando Larcher

PKK

8b+

Bassilandia

Gianguido Dalfovo

RE DE ROMA

8b+

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

SECONDO RAUND

8b+

Al Castello

Stefano Folgarait

SET ME FREE

8b+

Volta de No’

Roni Andres

COFFEE & BREAKFAST HOT MEALS PIZZA & BURGERS

food and drinks breakfast, lunch & dinner

TOAST & SANDWICHES APERITIFS & COCKTAILS DESSERTS

Via Galas 2 - 38062 Arco - Tn - ITALIA PH +39 0464 512061 www.centralecafearco.com


F.A. of the hardest routes 36

SIAMO SQUALI NELLE RETI

8b+

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

SVOLTA DI NO’

8b+

Volta de No’

Alessandro Gandolfo

TAIFUN

8b+

Massone

Luca Giupponi

TAIFUN

8b+

Massone

Luca Giupponi

WARBEAST

8b+

Nago

Markus Bock

GRAVITY GAMES

8b/+

Eremo di San Paolo

François Legrand

LE CHITARRINE

8b/+

Mondino

Luca Giupponi

MIKE JORDAN

8b/+

Massone

François Legrand

MOJADO

8b/+

La gola

Roberto Bassi

MONDI

8b/+

Breguzzo

Eugeny Ovtchinnikov

PINZA IDRAULICA

8b/+

Monte Terlago

Valerio Ballardini

SUPER MARATONA

8b/+

Massone

Rolando Larcher

WIND OF CHANGE

8b/+

Orme dei Dinosauri

Nicola Parziani

25° SOFT

8b

Celva

Rolando Larcher

3 MAGGIO

8b

Mondino

Luca Giupponi

AL CHIARO DI LUNA

8b

San Colombano

Stefano Ghidini

AMEN

8b

Coel dela val dela Porta

Rolando Larcher

BETRAYER

8b

Eremo di San Paolo

BR1

8b

Cola Grant

Rolando Larcher

BRABOLETTA

8b

Castello di Drena

Roni Andres

CAMPESINOS

8b

San Colombano

Stefano Ghidini

CHANDRAGON 8b

8b

Ottava Meraviglia

Marco Manfredini

COL BLU

8b

Climax

Andrea Stenico

COMPAÑERO

8b

Bassilandia

Gianguido Dalfovo

CONTI D’ARCO

8b

Bus de la stria

Gerhard Hörhager

CRYSTAL PLANET

8b

Sanderland

Paolo Benvenuti

DISAFFECTION FOR COMPRESSION

8b

Bus de Vela

ENERGIA = MC2

8b

Nomesino

Rolando Larcher

FISCHIO CHE RISCHIO

8b

San Colombano

Stefano Ghidini

GHOST RIDER

8b

Nago

Markus Bock

GILETTE

8b

Santa Massenza

Gianguido Dalfovo

GREAT SOUTHERN TRENDKILL

8b

Nago

Markus Bock

IL DUBBIO

8b

Al Castello

Stefano Folgarait

IL FANTASMA DELL’OPERA

8b

Forti di Civezzano

Valerio Ballardini

JENA

8b

San Colombano

Stefano Ghidini

L’ALLOCCO

8b

Coltura

Rolando Larcher

L’ALTERNATIVA

8b

Al Castello

Stefano Folgarait

L’ALVARON

8b

Terlago

Gianguido Dalfovo


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37


8b

Bus de Vela

Silvio Reffo

LEGATO BLU SUMMER

8b

Monte Terlago

Valerio Ballardini

LIEBE 30m

8b

Padaro

Matthias Knaubert

LIFTSCHEISSER

8b

Bus de la stria

David Lama

LILLO

8b

San Colombano

Stefano Ghidini

MADAME DOC

8b

La Gola

Cristian Giovannini

MALEFICIO PELVICO

8b

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

MARATONA

8b

Massone

Rolando Larcher

MINIMAL

8b

Baselga

Danilo Bonvecchio

MONDO DI LADRI

8b

Monte Terlago

Gianguido Dalfovo

ODISSEA NELL’OSPIZIO PLUS Var. di Dx

8b

Prada

Gianguido Dalfovo

PAPPATACI

8b

Bus de la stria

Gerhard Hörhager

PINZA IDRAULICA

8b

Monte Terlago

Valerio Ballardini

PRIMA O POI

8b

San Colombano

Stefano Ghidini

PROGETTO TRIBOUT

8b

Terra promessa

SADOMASO

8b

Padaro

Paolo Benvenuti

SCATUSH

8b

Volta de Nò

Alessandro Gandolfo

WITHOUT NAME n°22

8b

Terra Promessa

SONO INDIFFERENTE

8b

Padaro

Paolo Benvenuti

SOUL MAN

8b

Nomesino

Stefan Fürst

SPERANZA

8b

Mondino

Luca Giupponi

STRAPAZZAMI DI DIEDRO

8b

Forti di Civezzano

Luca Forti

STRUDEL BOY

8b

Nomesino

Martin Elser

TERMINEGRO

8b

Bus de Vela

Gabriele Moroni

TESTER PLUS

8b

San Colombano

Stefano Ghidini

TRASH

8b

Lagolo

Paolo benvenuti

TROPPO BUONI CON LE DONNE

8b

San Colombano

Stefano Ghidini

TROPPO SCHWAR

8b

Massone

Heinrich Pfostl

TUQUIJE

8b

Piccola Dallas

Geremia Vergoni

UCCEL DI BOSCO

8b

Ranzo

Danilo Bonvecchio

VARIOPINZA

8b

Coltura

Gianguido Dalfovo

X FILES

8b

Forti di Civezzano

Valerio Ballardini

The present list of FA is the result of a long and detailed research; many of the routes have never been repeated. The list is in a decreasing order according to the grades (from 9a+ to 8b). Inside each group of difficulties, the routes have been listed in alphabetical order. This has been done so

as not to discriminate any route, and because it is impossible to evaluate which, inside each group, is the most difficult route.

* The crag of Laghel has not been included in the present Guide.

Pizarra, Stefano Carnati, Riflessi del rosso, 8b+ (© Stefano Carnati)

38

F.A. of the hardest routes

L’INSAZIABILE


39


READING SCHEME beauty

ÙÙÙÙ

splendid

ÙÙÙÙ

worthy

ÙÙÙÙ

nice

ÙÙÙÙ

not exciting

equipment

ÙÙÙÙ

perfect

ÙÙÙÙ

good

ÙÙÙÙ

pay attention

ÙÙÙÙ

terrible

comfort at base

ÙÙÙÙ

comfortable

ÙÙÙÙ

ÙÙÙÙ

low

ÙÙÙÙ

very low

qrcode parking

ÙÙÙÙ

ÙÙÙÙ take care

ÙÙÙÙ sufficient

Dangerous crag

ÙÙÙÙ

medium

ÙÙÙÙ

good

ÙÙÙÙ

ÙÙÙÙ

high

very good

uncomfortable

tie in

40

parking

crowding

ÙÙÙÙ

difficult

qrcode base of wall


LAGHEL 06 07 08 09

CALVARIO MURO DELL'ASINO L'ORTO SALT DE LA CAVRA

84 88 94 96

Calvario, Elisabetta Dalla Brida (© Riccardo Russo)

Lago di Tenno

09 Padaro

SS45bis

08

07 Laghel

San Martino

06

SS421

Varignano

Massone

Tenno

ARCO Bolognano

Varone

San Giorgio

RIVA DEL GARDA

Sant'Alessandro

NAGO

Lago di Garda

80

TORBOLE


81


Salt de la cavra

L'orto Calvario

82


Muro dell'asino

83


09

Laghel

SALT DE LA CAVRA 450 m

Situated just above the spectacular and quiet basin of Laghel, it offers various types of climbing: the first pitches mainly on grey vertical slab with small crimps, continuous and overhanging on the middle pitches, technical and fingery on the pitches on the right. The crag is not very busy, probably due to the stiff grades and the distant bolts. Pitches 15 to 19 need to be fixed.

altitude

EAST aspect

ÙÙÙÙ beauty

Equipped: D. Mabboni, M. Matteotti, N. Tarolli, C. Parolini, others.

ÙÙÙÙ

ACCESS From Arco by car 4 km, then 10 minutes on foot along a path.

equipment

ÙÙÙÙ crowding

From the bridge over the river Sarca, pass through the centre of Arco towards Riva del Garda. Turn right following signposs for Laghel-Castello di Arco. Go along the ancient walls of Arco and then cultivations of olive trees and the rocky bastion of Laghel (on the right). At the little church of S.Maria di Laghel, turn left onto a steep road and continue along this for roughly 1.5km. The road narrows and does not make it possible to park the car. After an evident hair pin bend park under a large high tension pylon. Back track along the road for a dozen metres and take the path which climbs up diagonally to the right. Follow it till you cross the path (SAT 408) which is evident and goes uphill. Here leave the main path which climbs diagonally and joins up with a trail on the right which climbs up through the woods zigzagging steeply. In 5 minutes you reach the crag.

ÙÙÙÙ comfort at base

ÙÙÙÙ parking

10 min approach

Yes - No for beginners

Yes - No

dry climbing in the rain

Yes - No

408

fit for families

Yes - No

SALT DE LA CAVRA

multi pitch routes

Laghel Arco

26 4 4

6 2 2 2

3

<5a 5a 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

96

Salt de la Cavra, Manuel Peroni (© Davide Negretti)

3

Santa Maria di Laghel


pa

s i h t f o rt

FERRINO ARCO_VERTICAL

Via Segantini, 5 • 38062 Arco (TN) • Tel 0464/713358


Salt de la Cavra, Marco Zanni (© Davide Negretti)

98

09 Laghel  Salt de la cavra

1. LO SCOLARO 6c 18m Climb a good flake 2. IL CACCASTRELLO 7b 18m Climbing on small holds 3. BRONTOLOSAURO 7c+ 18m Boulder move at start then continuous 4. NON METTERTI LE DITA NEL NASO ? 18m Project MENTRE... 5. ANY LA FATA 8a 20m Intense, continuous on micro holds 6. GREY APE 8a 20m 10mt soft then continuous on little flakes and rocky features 7. SPIRAGLIO DI SOLE 7a+ 20m Difficult move 8. AURORA 6b 20m Hard move on the slab above the ledge 9. TARIFA 6b 18m Bouldery to start then continuous, friction climbing above 10. CHE CAVRON 6b 22m Powerful wall, then intense on small pockets and smears 11. NUTELLA TOUR 6a 18m Possible acrobatics to pass the central bulge, finish not to be underestimated 12. IL BACIO DELLA DONNA SENZA DENTI 6a+ 18m A couple of moves on micro holds and pockets, easy finish 13. TOP FLEX 101 6a+ 18m Good into the corner under the finish 14. RED POINT 7a 20m Complex finish from a splendid tufa 15. PACRILI 7a+ 20m Climb on small holds 16. MB 97 7b 20m Small starting holds, then less force and more attention 17. LIVIO 6c 23m Follow a good crack 18. MANI DI BURRO 7c+ 23m Violent section on chipped holds then delicate exit 19. LA BRUSCHETTATA 7a 23m Climb the crack 20. ESTO ES EL PRIMERO 7a 20m Good slab, few holds with moves on micro holds and smears 21. MISTER BEAN ? 20m Project 22. BEPPE IL FISICO ESOTERICO 6c+ 20m Technical slab, difficult to read the moves 23. ISCHIATUTTO 7a 22m Follow a crack in the lower part on a slightly leaning slab 24. WITHOUT NAME ? 20m A variant of Folle idea and Ischiatutto 25. FOLLE IDEA 6c 20m Good technical slab, nearly vertical. Exit on pockets 26. IL TESTAMENTO DI MIO ZIO 6b+ 17m Beautiful technical slab which is almost vertical. Exit on pockets


SALT DE LA CAVRA

7a+

6c

7b 6c

7c+ 7b

? 8a

8a

7a+

6b 6a 6b 6b

6a+ 6a+

11 12 13

1 2 3

4

5 6 7

8

9 10

7c+

7a

6c+ 7a ?

6c ? 24

7a

6b+

7a 1516 17 18 14

19 20

26 21

22

23

25

99


114

Giovanni Zaccaria, Colodri (© Giovanni Danieli)


115


17

San Paolo

SWING AREA 140 m

Improbable grey limestone wall, vertical and technical. Tiny crimps and sustained routes. For those with strong footwork Swing Area is the king. The history of sports climbing was written in the Swing Area sector, when overhangs were still unknown to climbers, with routes ranging from 7b to 8a bolted by Heinz Mariacher and Roberto Bassi. The pitches in the Swing Area sector are uncomfortable since they are situated on an exposed ledge. The sector Sirac en rut lower down to the right, offers routes which are alot easier but with the same characteristics: technical and very interesting. Recently the pitches of this sector have been rebolted by Emanuele Andreozzi and others.

altitude

EAST aspect

ÙÙÙÙ beauty

ÙÙÙÙ equipment

ÙÙÙÙ crowding

Equipped: R. Bassi, H. Mariacher, others.

ÙÙ/ÙÙÙÙ

ACCESS From Arco by car 1,8 km, 5 minutes along a path.

comfort at base

ÙÙÙÙ

From the bridge over the river Sarca, turn right and follow the directions along side the large car park to Loc. Prabi, Camping Arco-swimming pool. The road (Via Paolina Caproni) passes the Rock Master climbing stadium (on the right), while on the left the crags of the Rupe Secca towards the Colodri. Continue along the route and past the Restaurant La Lanterna park near the floodgate (space for a few cars), recognisable thanks to its arch structure. Once you have parked, back track on foot along the road for roughly two hundred metres until you are level with the iron gate which fences off the fruit trees, climb over the wall. Head into the woods following the trail which will lead to the crag in 5 minutes.

parking

5 min approach

Yes - No for beginners

Yes - No

dry climbing in the rain

Yes - No fit for families

Yes - No

multi pitch routes SWING AREA

Ceniga

Arco Restaurant

23 1

1

3

5

3

5

4 1

<5a 5a 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

132


1. PIPISTRELLO 7b 20m Difficult and technical small roof. F.A. Heinz Mariacher 2. INDIANA JONES 7b+ 25m Single move to exit the overhang P2 7c 25m Technical footwork, fingery on small holds, very hard. F. A. Maurizio Zanolla 3. SUPER SWING 7b+ 30m Technical crack and smeary. F.A. Heinz Mariacher 4. LA GNOGNA 7b+ 26m Technical and compact wall 5. NISIDA 7c 26m Smeary and extreme technique. F.A. Maurizio Zanolla 6. BALLE BOLLENTI 7c 25m Technical on vertical wall, fingery and good footwork required 7. LA PISTA 8a 30m Extremely technical, difficult crux below chain 8. LA GITA 7b 35m Endless journey on slab 9. PORCA VACCA 7c+ 30m Technical wall, endurance and sustained climbing on vertical edges 10. ARMANDO DIAZ 7a 25m Sustained climbing on small knobbles SWING AREA SWING AREA SIRAC EN RUT 30 m

7c 5a 8a 7c

7b+ 7b

7b+

2 3

1

7b

7a

6

7 8

5

9

6c

6a 6c

10

6c

6b

6b

7c

7b+

4 5

7c+

6c

7

6c

6b+

7a 7a+

5

1 2

3 4

6

7

8

133


17 San Paoloâ&#x20AC;&#x192; Swing area 134

SIRAC EN RUT SECTOR 1. GREPPO GREPPO 6a 20m P2 5a 20m 2. KARL DALLE 6c 20m P2 6b 20m 3. WITHOUT NAME 6c 20m 4. WITHOUT NAME 6c 20m

Technical footwork, beautiful Corner crack Technical on sloping pockets Technical climbing on knobbles Technical moves, footwork on the last section (wrong name at start of route) Technical climbing, smeary


5. SIRAC EN RUT P2 6. KARL KNOPF 7. TIN TIN P2 8. WITHOUT NAME

6b+ 6b 7a+ 7a 6c 6c

20m 28m 22m 22m 20m 22m

Technical traverse footwork Grey rock always on vertical holds Original bolting, dangerous Great route not too demanding Second pitch dirty and dusty Vertical wall on flakes

Swing Area, Emanuele Andreozzi, La gita, 7b (© Luca Pasqualetto)

135


37

Sarche - Toblino

LA PANORAMICA 360 m

beauty

It is clear why the tireless Fabio Leoni and Michele Cagol from Vertical Sport after discovering this crag named it La Panoramica. Hanging one hundred metres above the Sarca Valley this crag offers a breath taking view over the Valle dei Laghi and Toblino Lake, with beautiful long pitches of which the most part are of medium low difficulty. From the route Controluce we recommend you tie in. Situated in an isolated and quiet area, it is one of the most interesting rock faces. It will not leave you disappointed.

ÙÙÙÙ equipment

Equipped: M. Cagol, F. Leoni, others.

ÙÙÙÙ

ACCESS From Arco by car 17 km, then 10- 15 minutes along a white track and fixed rope.

altitude

EAST aspect

ÙÙÙÙ

crowding

ÙÙÙÙ comfort at base

From the bridge over the river Sarca along the state road 45 bis, follow indications to Trento - Madonna di Campiglio towards Sarche. Continue beyond Dro and Pietramurata to Sarche (16km). On the right go past the Centro Commerciale Sarche. At the roundabout turn left for Madonna di Campiglio S.P. 237 del Caffaro. Immediately after the bridge, at the obvious red post box, turn left into Via Rauten and continue straight on until a small piazza. Follow the red and white signs marked 427 (Ponte del Gobbo/Pietramurata) along a gravel track passing through wine groves for 500 metres. Go along a road which goes down to the river and is shut off by a barrier, park your car avoiding to block transit. From the barrier go towards Sarche for 200 metres. Take a steep zig zag trail on the left, which shortly leads to a first rock band. Scramble up over easy rocks until you reach a metal cable. Climb up it and after a short section of a path and another section with metal cable, you reach the crag.

ÙÙÙÙ parking

10 min approach

Yes - No for beginners

Yes - No

dry climbing in the rain

Yes - No fit for families

Yes - No

multi pitch routes

LA PANORAMICA Sarche

Sarche

19 3 3

4

6 2

1

<5a 5a 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

232

Sarca


1. MESSA A FUOCO 6a/+ 23m Broken rock somewhat dirty 2. OVETTO XA2 6b+ 30m Good holds with interesting movements on the final slab 3. FOTOCOLOR 6b+ 30m Two delicate sections 4. DIAFRAMMA 6b 30m Single sequence on smooth holds, then eases 5. INFINITO 7a+ 30m Central wall, technical and vertical 6. OBIETTIVO 6c+ 30m Central line, continuous on grey, compact rock 7. ZOOM 7a 34m Two difficult overlaps 8. GRANDANGOLO 6c+ 34m Delicate initial wall, then good vertical holds, slightly overhanging 9. FLASH 6c 34m Continuous on good holds, slightly overhanging 10. PROFONDITÃ&#x20AC; DI CAMPO 7a 34m Very dirty with unstable rock 11. CONTROLUCE ? ? Project 12. AUTOSCATTO 6a+ 25m Technical corner 13. ESPOSIMETRO 6a+ 25m Good warm up route, continuous 14. OTTICHE 6c 18m Technical with difficult movement on polished holds 15. PRISMA 7b+ 24m Hard move to finish 16. FILTRI 7b? 24m Sustained wall with involved sections 17. FISHEYE 7a 24m Continually interesting, very good 18. POLARIZZATORE 7a 24m Vertical wall on crimps 19. 50mm 7a 24m Bouldery to a rest then continuous, very technical LA PANORAMICA

6c+ 6b

6b+

7a

6c+

7b+ 6a+

7a+

6b+

7a

6a/+

?

6a+

6c 12 11 1

2 3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

7a 7b?

7a

6c

7a

13 14 15

16

17

18

19

233


234


La Panoramica, Klaus Zelger, Grandangolo, 6c+ (© Giampaolo Calzà)

235


OVERWHELMING ONDRA Under his pinch grips, his deadly footwork and extraordinary knee twisting, the rock Adam climbs marks difficulties of 9a, 9b and 9c, crushed like peanuts. The first 9c’s and 9a+’s in the history of climbing, Silence and Super Crackinette hold his signature. And as we finish off this guide book, the twenty five year old Ondra has already twenty lines of 9b upwards under his belt. With Queen Line he has now climbed the first 9b in the Sarca Valley. Talking to the Czech climber, the strongest and most versatile climber in the world: first on rock, first in the World Cup for years, over 200 boulders from 8A to 8C+, a hotshot on multi-pitch routes too, such as Dawn Wall and El Capitan. Here are his reflections without questions to mark his progression. His reflections will lead us down his past, his present, And they reach us all, simply. Not much technique, a lot of life. Because climbing for Adam means to exist. Because what seems like the future in climbing, for him is already the stone age. It is 1989. The communist regime crumbles with the Velvet Revolution and the Berlin wall in November no longer stands. Four years later, Czechoslovakia signs a friendly divorce. The Czech Republic and the Slovak Republic are thus born. On the 5th February 1993 Adam Ondra is born, in Brno, in Czech land. And a new revolution has just begun. «From Brno to Arco there are over eight hundred kilometres passing through Austria, Germany and Liechtenstein. Truthfully I can hardly remember anything of my first trip. I was just over three years old. My parents, Eva and Miroslav though took photos. Eva and Miroslav met at the age of nineteen in Germany. Both climbed and shared the same passion. And they would go to Arco to climb. They have always been an active family. Everyone took part in sports, from cycling to skiing. Everyone around me climbed. Everyone, in our social context climbed. If I hadn’t taken up climbing it would have been strange. I would have been the only one not to do so.

254

«I have no memories of that first trip to Arco. But I do of when I was seven. It was a wave. And it overwhelmed me. It was springtime. Nago, Massone… Here I climbed some of my first routes. At home, in Brno, sports routes were bolted very distant and it was difficult to lead routes as a kid. But at Arco all the routes were well bolted. I managed to climb then on sight without having to try them previously top-rope. It was during those years that I realised my full potential. That I could achieve something in climbing. The first successes. The only important thing was to climb, climb, and climb some more. «And then at Arco, there was pizza! As a kid it was one of the things that really motivated me, as well as climbing. Pizza…and obviously ice cream. This is what climbing was to me as a kid: climbing, pizza, ice cream. Now I am a lot more careful of what I eat. I like to eat well. A lot of vegetables, fish, Indian food. I don’t have a favourite dish. Even if I love cooking Indian curry. It is quick to make and it is full of energy. Satisfying. To take care of one’s nutrition helps physical recovery. If your recovery is quick you can train more efficiently. I feel better and stronger. That is why I am very careful of what I eat. «The end of the nineties, the start of the new millennium…the legendary 2000. I was seven years old. At that time I did not think of the cultural differences between East and West. Arco for me simply meant holidays. As well as the fact that the Czech Republic was already more stable economically. Of course, a few years earlier it would have been very complicated to travel to the west. I was very lucky to be born in times when change had already occurred. And today…Now I can choose to go anywhere, I get into my car, put my music on and I just hit the road! «Music though is not a fundamental part of my life. I know that many climbers are inspired by singers, or rock bands. When I drive I listen to music without any particular preference. Instead, I love books. I love papers, educational reading if that’s what you


call it. One of my favourite authors is Jared Diamond. His anthropological paper on Guns, Germs and steel, a short story of the world in the last thirteen thousand years was an enlightening read. It literally opened by eyes on many situations, on why the world is the way it is. Diamond won the Pulitzer prize for this study and I highly recommend it. «What am I afraid of? At the age of three I was attacked by a dog, and since then I do not have a great relationship with them. I am always scared of them. I couldn’t even have a pet if I wanted to since I am always travelling. And I’ve never had any at home. My dream though would be to have a giraffe. It’s crazy I know, but this animal has fascinated me for years. There is no real reason. Probably due to its long neck, we are similar. «I had to finish my studies, and using social network sites requires a lot of time. Only after my degree did I think about dedicating time to it. I like Instagram. There is no advertising like there is on FB. On Instagram you follow what you really want to follow. Up

until two years ago I didn’t even know they existed. Now I even have a team working for me, that helps me in terms of media and sponsors. It’s important, especially because I try to keep a balance between “climbing” and “public relations”. Let’s say that in my position, social networking is a way of making yourself known and helping others to be inspired. «Inspiring others, yes. I really hope so! I am a professional climber and I feel very lucky. I do what I love, and I get paid to do it by my sponsors. Therefore tangibly, what could I offer the vertical community, if not inspiring people? Through my results, my passion, my motivation, I can show others that climbing is fun and joy, without giving up on the challenge, the effort. «What has not changed at all in Ondra’s climbing is exactly this, motivation. It moved me as a child, it still does now. It has always been part of my life. Climbing was my desire. Climbing, and travelling to go climbing in new areas, on new lines. It is a sort of vicious cycle. When you climb, be it a 9a, 9b+, 9c, it is that flowing sensation… Adam Ondra (© Giampaolo Calzà)

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landia. Vertical and slightly overhanging, with very tiny things for slippery feet, different kind of holds, hard to the very end. On this kind of difficulty, it is the best route you can imagine.

«Climbing makes me a happy person. And if climbing makes other people just as happy, my happiness doubles. Happiness is an exercise. You create it, you nourish it, you develop it. With moments of hard work. Generally this is my passion. Putting passion in what I do, brings satisfaction in life. You have to train, you have to do it? Therefore you transform “the sacrifice” in something fun! Into passion. There are many tricks to motivate yourself positively and to tackle things in life, even the most heavy going things. Let’s take away the word training from that sense of sacrifice and hard work which makes it a dead weight, let’s love it because it helps us move forward and we will discover that training isn’t that bad after all!

«These are two routes which have attracted my attention, which have motivated me to come back. I believe that they should act as an incentive even to other climbers. Many people know Massone, but Bassilandia and Padaro are so different and so amazing! Bassilandia is old style climbing, but with the highest ratio of quality route-rock. Padaro can be seen from Arco. Marvellous. Only recently have people started to be interested in it. It is climbing’s modern conception, but the routes are not polished, and it offers enormous potential for new interesting lines.

«I never thought I would become a personality. Obviously everyone knows me in Arco! I expect that. In Brno two years ago nobody knew who I was, except for the climbing community. Now people are beginning to stop me, they know who I am, and I still haven’t got used to it. I prefer to be anonymous along the road. But if this is the price to pay to live one’s dream, then fair enough! Even when I climb at the crag there is no difference if people watch me or not. I am there to climb and I concentrate on that. Maybe it’s more of a problem for my climbing partners than for me. Of course, there are moments in which it is nice to climb on your own, but I am very good at concentrating! «I think that among Arco’s best routes, if not the best overall of its kind, there is Compañero at Bassi-

«Corazón invertido instead is the perfect example of the new vertical potential in Arco. One of the most obvious lines on the face. So pure and amazing! Padaro’s style is very special, especially being in that area. Steep, bouldery, at the same time it requires some endurance.

«New 9c? That would be nice. I have a couple projects in minds. Even in Arco there is a potential 9b+, if not 9c, but still to be verified. For the moment, I will keep on climbing as much as possible outdoors. While from 2019 I would like to start to concentrate on comps and then train for the Olympic Games. Now let’s enjoy this new break, free from University. I have recently graduated in Business Management, and I confess that it was quite difficult to combine everything. Studying and early wake up calls. Studying and training. Studying and climbing. Studying and my degree! Especially because the subjects needed for the degree aren’t really my favourite. I forced myself to like macro and microeconomics, and history. I made it! And if the time I dedicate to training is the same as after graduating, now I can sleep more. And that’s not a bad thing! Antonella Cicogna

Laghel, Adam Ondra (© Giampaolo Calzà)

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OVERWHELMING ONDRA

«Take Queen Line for example on the Laghel rock face, Arco’s first 9b, closer to a 9b+ on the final section. Seventeen super difficult and intense moves on tiny holds. Pinch grips, crimping, knee-dropping… Such a route can only motivate me to climb and train. To improve, again and again. So as to be sufficiently strong and ready to climb new lines with those characteristics. And obviously, to enjoy myself even more. Because when you are ready, and the fitter you are, the more fun you have. That flowing sensation just gets to you.


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TRENTO

113 CALISIO 114 FEUDO - DRAGO NASCOSTO - LO SCUDO 115 MAKKIODROMO 116 MESCALISIO 117 CARTOON NETWORK 118 MURO DEI 70 SCALINI 119 FORTI DI CIVEZZANO 120 CELVA 121 LA VELA 122 BUS DE VELA 123 VASON 124 ZAMBANA

590 592 596 598 602 606 608 622 628 634 638 640

Celva, Peter Moser, Progetto Bassi, 8c? (© Matteo Mocellin)

ANDALO

Lavis

124

Montevaccino

113 114

Terlago Cadine

121

122

Vezzano

TRENTO

Sopramonte

123

586

116117 115 Civezzano 118 119 120

PERGINE VALSUGANA

A22

Lago di Caldonazzo


587


Feudo Calisio

Drago nascosto Lo scudo

588


Mescalisio

Makkiodromo

Cartoon Network

589


Location: Muline Grampians, Australia - Route: Eye of the Tiger - Grade: 8a - Climber: Heather Travarthen

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ARCO Rock  

Arco, Valle del Sarca, Valle dei Laghi, Valli Giudicarie, Val di Non, Trento, Rovereto. For anyone wanting to climb in these areas you will...

ARCO Rock  

Arco, Valle del Sarca, Valle dei Laghi, Valli Giudicarie, Val di Non, Trento, Rovereto. For anyone wanting to climb in these areas you will...

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