Page 1


12

The Art of French Baking 20

The Basics 68

Icings and fillings 84

Small Cakes 162

Gateaux 208

Tarts and Pastries 244

Biscuits 296

milk and egg Puddings 344

Menus from Celebrated Chefs 356

Glossary 360

Index


12

The Art of French Baking 20

The Basics 68

Icings and fillings 84

Small Cakes 162

Gateaux 208

Tarts and Pastries 244

Biscuits 296

milk and egg Puddings 344

Menus from Celebrated Chefs 356

Glossary 360

Index


Tarts AND

pastries Home-made cakes and pastries turn everyday menus into a celebration. They are generally economical and easy to make and, made with good ingredients, they can have an incomparable flavour. In addition, minimal equipment is required: a clean work surface and rolling pin, a blender and a few tins of various shapes and sizes are all that is needed. However, the oven temperature and cooking times must be followed carefully for the recipe to succeed.


Tarts AND

pastries Home-made cakes and pastries turn everyday menus into a celebration. They are generally economical and easy to make and, made with good ingredients, they can have an incomparable flavour. In addition, minimal equipment is required: a clean work surface and rolling pin, a blender and a few tins of various shapes and sizes are all that is needed. However, the oven temperature and cooking times must be followed carefully for the recipe to succeed.


Tarte tatin tarte tatin

Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6. Make the shortcrust pastry, cover and allow it to rest. Take a 20-cm (8-inch) pie dish with a solid base, preferably made of solid metal, and place in it 100 g (3½ oz) of the sugar and 1–2 tablespoons water. Place the dish over a medium heat and make a fairly dark caramel (p.73). Ensure the base of the dish is coated in caramel and allow to cool.

Preparation time: 25 minutes Cooking time: 30 minutes Serves 6 1 quantity Shortcrust Pastry (p.210) 125 g (4¼ oz) caster sugar For the filling: 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) apples 40 g (1½ oz) butter

For the filling, peel, core and thinly slice the apples. Arrange close together in a ring on the caramel in the dish and sprinkle with the remaining sugar. Dot with the butter. Roll out the pastry to a thickness of 5 mm (¼ inch) and place over the apples, tucking the pastry into the tin all round so that the fruit is completely covered. Bake for 30 minutes, then turn out onto a serving dish so that the caramelized apples are on top.

Alsace tart with apples tarte à l’alsacienne aux pommes

Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6. Prepare an uncooked shortcrust pastry case. Arrange the apples on the pastry. In a bowl, beat the flour, eggs, sugar and crème fraîche until just smooth. Pour over the apples and bake for 30–40 minutes.

Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 30–40 minutes Serves 6 1 quantity Shortcrust Pastry (p.210) For the filling: 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) apples, peeled, cored and sliced 50 g (1¾ oz) flour 2 eggs 100 g (3½ oz) caster sugar 100 ml (3½ fl oz) crème fraîche

Tarte Tatin

6

Tarts and Pastries


Tarte tatin tarte tatin

Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6. Make the shortcrust pastry, cover and allow it to rest. Take a 20-cm (8-inch) pie dish with a solid base, preferably made of solid metal, and place in it 100 g (3½ oz) of the sugar and 1–2 tablespoons water. Place the dish over a medium heat and make a fairly dark caramel (p.73). Ensure the base of the dish is coated in caramel and allow to cool.

Preparation time: 25 minutes Cooking time: 30 minutes Serves 6 1 quantity Shortcrust Pastry (p.210) 125 g (4¼ oz) caster sugar For the filling: 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) apples 40 g (1½ oz) butter

For the filling, peel, core and thinly slice the apples. Arrange close together in a ring on the caramel in the dish and sprinkle with the remaining sugar. Dot with the butter. Roll out the pastry to a thickness of 5 mm (¼ inch) and place over the apples, tucking the pastry into the tin all round so that the fruit is completely covered. Bake for 30 minutes, then turn out onto a serving dish so that the caramelized apples are on top.

Alsace tart with apples tarte à l’alsacienne aux pommes

Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6. Prepare an uncooked shortcrust pastry case. Arrange the apples on the pastry. In a bowl, beat the flour, eggs, sugar and crème fraîche until just smooth. Pour over the apples and bake for 30–40 minutes.

Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 30–40 minutes Serves 6 1 quantity Shortcrust Pastry (p.210) For the filling: 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) apples, peeled, cored and sliced 50 g (1¾ oz) flour 2 eggs 100 g (3½ oz) caster sugar 100 ml (3½ fl oz) crème fraîche

Tarte Tatin

6

Tarts and Pastries


Lemon tartlets

Pithivier

tartelettes au citron

Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas Mark 7 and grease twelve 6-cm (2½-inch) tartlet moulds . Roll out the basic pie dough with a rolling pin and line the moulds with the pastry. To make the filling, beat the egg with the sugar, then add the lemon juice, grated lemon zest and butter. Pour the filling into the tartlet cases and lattice the top of the tartlets with strips of pastry. Bake for 25 minutes, or until golden brown.

Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 25 minutes Serves 6 1 quantity Basic Pie Dough (p.208) 1 egg 150 g (5 oz) caster sugar 1 unwaxed lemon 60 g (2 oz) butter, softened

pithiviers

1 quantity Puff Pastry (p.212) 350 g (12 oz) blanched almonds 175 g (6 oz) caster sugar 1 teaspoon almond extract 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 3 eggs 175 g (6 oz) butter, softened 1 egg yolk

Puff pastry

Dartois

pâte feuilletée

Puff pastry is made with butter and flour, a little water and a pinch of salt. The proportion of butter to flour varies widely, but a good rule of thumb is to use half the weight of butter to that of flour. Puff pastry should be made in a cool place, with all the ingredients kept as cool as possible.

Preparation time: 2 hours, plus resting time Serves 6 200 g (7 oz) flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting 1 pinch of salt 100 ml (3½ fl oz) ice-cold water 100 g (3½ oz) butter, diced and softened

In a bowl, mix the flour, salt and most of the water to make a smooth, elastic dough, adding the rest of the water if necessary. Flour a work surface and roll the dough out to a rectangle 5 mm (¼ inch) thick. Put the butter in the middle of the dough and fold over the 4 corners so that they meet in the middle and the butter is completely enclosed. Allow to rest for 10 minutes in the refrigerator. Turn the dough through a right-angle and roll out again into a long rectangle 5 mm (¼ inch) thick, taking care not to let the butter escape. Fold both short ends to overlap in the centre to make a smaller rectangle with 3 layers. Rest again for 15 minutes. Roll out the dough again and repeat the folds. Rest for 15 minutes. Do this 6 more times. Each stage is called a ‘turn’. After the sixth turn, the pastry is ready, but the more it is worked, the lighter it will be.

Make the puff pastry. Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/ Gas Mark 7. Pound the almonds in a mortar or process in a blender with the sugar, almond extract and lemon zest. Add the eggs, one by one, and the butter. Knead the mixture. Line a 20-cm (8-inch) pie dish or tart tin with half the pastry. Fill with the almond mixture. Cover with another pastry circle, moisten the edges with a little water and press to seal. Brush with the egg yolk to glaze. With a sharp knife, starting in the centre, score patterns on the pastry out to the edges, like the spokes of a wheel. Bake for 30 minutes, or until golden brown.

Preparation time: 1 hour, plus resting time Cooking time: 30 minutes Serves 6

dartois

Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas Mark 7 and grease a baking tray with butter. Prepare the almond paste by mixing the almonds, butter, eggs, sugar and vanilla together and set aside, covered, at room temperature. Roll the pastry dough out to 5 mm (¼ inch) thick.

Preparation time: 1 hour, plus resting time Cooking time: 25 minutes Serves 6 1 quantity Puff Pastry (p.212) Butter, for greasing

Prepare 2 strips, one 8–10 cm (3–4 inches) wide, the other 2 cm (¾ inch) wider. Place the larger one on the prepared tray. Spoon the almond paste, which should be quite soft, onto this strip and fold in 1 cm (½ inch) of the edges over the almond paste all round. Put on the second piece of pastry like a lid, seal the edges with water and flute them so that they stand upright. Mark with a knife every 4–5 cm (1½–2 inches) to show the individual portions of dartois. Bake for 25 minutes, or until deep golden brown. Immediately after baking, gently cut the dartois in slices at the marked portions.

For the almond paste: 125 g (4¼ oz) ground almonds 60 g (2 oz) butter, softened 100 g (3½ oz) caster sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 eggs

Note: The butter should be as soft as the dough, or it will tear the carefully constructed layers.

8

Tarts and Pastries

9

Tarts and Pastries


Lemon tartlets

Pithivier

tartelettes au citron

Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas Mark 7 and grease twelve 6-cm (2½-inch) tartlet moulds . Roll out the basic pie dough with a rolling pin and line the moulds with the pastry. To make the filling, beat the egg with the sugar, then add the lemon juice, grated lemon zest and butter. Pour the filling into the tartlet cases and lattice the top of the tartlets with strips of pastry. Bake for 25 minutes, or until golden brown.

Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 25 minutes Serves 6 1 quantity Basic Pie Dough (p.208) 1 egg 150 g (5 oz) caster sugar 1 unwaxed lemon 60 g (2 oz) butter, softened

pithiviers

1 quantity Puff Pastry (p.212) 350 g (12 oz) blanched almonds 175 g (6 oz) caster sugar 1 teaspoon almond extract 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 3 eggs 175 g (6 oz) butter, softened 1 egg yolk

Puff pastry

Dartois

pâte feuilletée

Puff pastry is made with butter and flour, a little water and a pinch of salt. The proportion of butter to flour varies widely, but a good rule of thumb is to use half the weight of butter to that of flour. Puff pastry should be made in a cool place, with all the ingredients kept as cool as possible.

Preparation time: 2 hours, plus resting time Serves 6 200 g (7 oz) flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting 1 pinch of salt 100 ml (3½ fl oz) ice-cold water 100 g (3½ oz) butter, diced and softened

In a bowl, mix the flour, salt and most of the water to make a smooth, elastic dough, adding the rest of the water if necessary. Flour a work surface and roll the dough out to a rectangle 5 mm (¼ inch) thick. Put the butter in the middle of the dough and fold over the 4 corners so that they meet in the middle and the butter is completely enclosed. Allow to rest for 10 minutes in the refrigerator. Turn the dough through a right-angle and roll out again into a long rectangle 5 mm (¼ inch) thick, taking care not to let the butter escape. Fold both short ends to overlap in the centre to make a smaller rectangle with 3 layers. Rest again for 15 minutes. Roll out the dough again and repeat the folds. Rest for 15 minutes. Do this 6 more times. Each stage is called a ‘turn’. After the sixth turn, the pastry is ready, but the more it is worked, the lighter it will be.

Make the puff pastry. Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/ Gas Mark 7. Pound the almonds in a mortar or process in a blender with the sugar, almond extract and lemon zest. Add the eggs, one by one, and the butter. Knead the mixture. Line a 20-cm (8-inch) pie dish or tart tin with half the pastry. Fill with the almond mixture. Cover with another pastry circle, moisten the edges with a little water and press to seal. Brush with the egg yolk to glaze. With a sharp knife, starting in the centre, score patterns on the pastry out to the edges, like the spokes of a wheel. Bake for 30 minutes, or until golden brown.

Preparation time: 1 hour, plus resting time Cooking time: 30 minutes Serves 6

dartois

Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas Mark 7 and grease a baking tray with butter. Prepare the almond paste by mixing the almonds, butter, eggs, sugar and vanilla together and set aside, covered, at room temperature. Roll the pastry dough out to 5 mm (¼ inch) thick.

Preparation time: 1 hour, plus resting time Cooking time: 25 minutes Serves 6 1 quantity Puff Pastry (p.212) Butter, for greasing

Prepare 2 strips, one 8–10 cm (3–4 inches) wide, the other 2 cm (¾ inch) wider. Place the larger one on the prepared tray. Spoon the almond paste, which should be quite soft, onto this strip and fold in 1 cm (½ inch) of the edges over the almond paste all round. Put on the second piece of pastry like a lid, seal the edges with water and flute them so that they stand upright. Mark with a knife every 4–5 cm (1½–2 inches) to show the individual portions of dartois. Bake for 25 minutes, or until deep golden brown. Immediately after baking, gently cut the dartois in slices at the marked portions.

For the almond paste: 125 g (4¼ oz) ground almonds 60 g (2 oz) butter, softened 100 g (3½ oz) caster sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 eggs

Note: The butter should be as soft as the dough, or it will tear the carefully constructed layers.

8

Tarts and Pastries

9

Tarts and Pastries


CREAM BUNS

choux à la creme pâtissière Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas Mark 7. In a large pan, gently heat 120 ml (4 fl oz) water with the sugar, butter and salt until the butter has melted, then bring to the boil. Quickly add the flour all at once, and beat with a wooden spoon. Reduce the heat and continue to beat the dough for about 1 minute until it comes away easily from the sides of the pan. Grease a plate with butter, turn the mixture out onto it and leave to cool to room temperature. Return the dough to the pan and gradually beat in the eggs until the dough is smooth and glossy. Pipe or spoon egg-sized pieces of choux pastry dough onto a buttered baking tray. Bake for 20 minutes until well risen and golden. When cooled, make a horizontal slit near the top and fill generously with sweetened whipped cream.

Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes Serves 6 For the choux pastry: 20 g (¾ oz) caster sugar 100 g (3 ½ oz) butter, plus extra for greasing 1 teaspoon salt 120 g (4 oz) flour 4 eggs, beaten 1 quantity Whipped Cream (p.82)

ÉCLAIRS éclairs

Make the choux pastry. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6 and grease a baking tray with butter. Pipe or spoon the dough into fingers on the prepared tray. Bake for 20 minutes and allow to cool. When cooled, slit the éclairs along the side. Carefully fill them with chocolate crème pâtissière, and top with chocolate icing.

Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes Serves 6 1 quantity Choux Pastry (above) Butter, for greasing 1 quantity Chocolate Crème Pâtissière (p.84) 1 quantity Chocolate Icing (p.87)

Cream Buns

10

Tarts and Pastries


CREAM BUNS

choux à la creme pâtissière Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas Mark 7. In a large pan, gently heat 120 ml (4 fl oz) water with the sugar, butter and salt until the butter has melted, then bring to the boil. Quickly add the flour all at once, and beat with a wooden spoon. Reduce the heat and continue to beat the dough for about 1 minute until it comes away easily from the sides of the pan. Grease a plate with butter, turn the mixture out onto it and leave to cool to room temperature. Return the dough to the pan and gradually beat in the eggs until the dough is smooth and glossy. Pipe or spoon egg-sized pieces of choux pastry dough onto a buttered baking tray. Bake for 20 minutes until well risen and golden. When cooled, make a horizontal slit near the top and fill generously with sweetened whipped cream.

Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes Serves 6 For the choux pastry: 20 g (¾ oz) caster sugar 100 g (3 ½ oz) butter, plus extra for greasing 1 teaspoon salt 120 g (4 oz) flour 4 eggs, beaten 1 quantity Whipped Cream (p.82)

ÉCLAIRS éclairs

Make the choux pastry. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6 and grease a baking tray with butter. Pipe or spoon the dough into fingers on the prepared tray. Bake for 20 minutes and allow to cool. When cooled, slit the éclairs along the side. Carefully fill them with chocolate crème pâtissière, and top with chocolate icing.

Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes Serves 6 1 quantity Choux Pastry (above) Butter, for greasing 1 quantity Chocolate Crème Pâtissière (p.84) 1 quantity Chocolate Icing (p.87)

Cream Buns

10

Tarts and Pastries


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