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as.sem.blage Recalling of Time and Memory FALL WINTER 2014/2015


Reminiscent the presence......


Edison Wong stands for the muatuality between conceptual approach and artistic expression in technique and materials. The essence of his works is expressing the presence and the emotions of a woman. He believe fashion creating an exciting and imperative form of self-expression. “ I have a great passion about art and fashion. My works often reflects the theme of Expressionism. I love to express various of emotions through handworks and the use of different materials. “


MOODBOARD STORY BOARD IDEA DEVELOPMENT INSPIRATION FOR TEXTILE MANIPULATION FABRIC MANIPULATION COLLECTED DENIM CREATIVE PROCESS TARGET MARKET & MUSE MARKET SECTOR COMPETITORS PRESS RELEASE COLLECTION COSTING SHEET


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TABLE OF CONTENT


The body be 01

‘Reality ’ of an

where garme

the memory


ecomes the

n experience ent embodies

y of the past.

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FORGOTTEN


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REMINISCENT THE PRESENCE...


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Inspired by Francis Bacon’s paint-

ing - It violence aesthetic in his figurative painting demonstrated an impact to the visual eyesight and hit the nervous system of it viewer. [as.sem.blage] taking references from Francis Bacon’s ‘Study From the Human Body, 1949’ as the starting point of the collection. This painting shown an unclear figure body placing in between the curtain and facing towards the void of black gap. Symbolized an ambiguities of space, time and experience.

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IDEA DEVELOPMENT

Capturing the mood and emotional in Bacon’s painting -

Study From the Human Body, 1949, this collection explored the idea of recalling the memory of the past to reminiscent the connection between the object and the subject. It was started with the story of an women went into the black gap between the white curtain that left abandoned in the demolished house and travel back along to her past, through the space.

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An idea of collecting aged item and remaking it reality also reflect the global issue of clothes wastage. Sustainable been an issue all the time, we consume more and more, what left behind was the old pieces of clothing. The presence of one garment easily replace by time. A symbol of identity of one’s self replaced and replaced again. This lead to question the objective of recycling repeatedly. To be able to sustain, is to reconnect the pieces of garment to the wearer and documenting it moment and history.


Unpicking - Cutting - Patchworks - Forming From the process of collecting all the material needed for this collection to the process of constructing something that documented the designer’s process of making and emotions during the development of the collection. [as.sem.blage] is a series of works that reminiscent one’s memory, time and experience. This collection also as a response that reflects Edison’s graduate thesis in which the study about appropriation of Francis Bacon’s violence aesthetic from art context into radical fashion context. The idea of recycling considered one of the appropriation method that allow remixing the context from different field and generate personal identity statement. From two dimensional to three dimensional, this collection taking a personal approach of understanding the use of aesthetic appropriation and apply it own voice of the designer that wish to interact with it wearer through the making of garment.

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Inspiration For Textile Manipulation


DISTRESSED

Textures Decay Effect

Quilting

Patchworks

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ARCYLIC PAINTED

PAINTING CRACKING

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DENIM PATCHWORKS

LEATHER PATCHWORKS KNITTING


FABRIC MANIPULATION

WOOD BARK TEXTURED

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FRANCIS BACON FACE PATCHWORK


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The idea of collecting vintage pieces of denim jacket and jeans is surrounded by the concept of it durability and longevity. Collected vintage jacket will be deconstruct and reconstruct it new look through the application of distortion and trompe l’oeil effect.

COLLECTED VINTAGE DENIM JACKET


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EARLY STAGE COLLAGES


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Quilted Bacon Jacket

CREATIVE PROCESS

Digitised and distorted imagery inspires a theme that weighs equal importance on the everyday and the exceptional. This Quilted Bacon Jacket was inspired by the portrait painting painted by Francis Bacon. The distortion of the face appropriated from two dimensional into three dimensional through the technique of patchworks and quilting. This quilted jacket took a vintage Malboro jacket and reworks on it to remake it outer look that interpret the designer own narrative representation.


A texture that documents time and experience .The process of making this textile manipulation is time consuming. It need to be painted for three times at both side of the fabric. The inspiration of this textile came from the art making process. A study on Francis Bacon’s process of art making stated that Bacon taking the use of paint and create a raw imagery to reminiscent the character of his painting subject. This textile manipulation using acrylic paint and cracked medium coating that used in fine art to create the feel of aged and demolished.

WALLCRACK&TREEBARK TEXTURE MANIPULATION

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CPJ DOCUMENTATION


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DEMONGRAPHIC Female, aged 30 to 48 year old Middle class - Upper class Monthly income ranged from SGD 5000 to SGD 15,000 Marital Status - Single and Married with children aged 2-10 From urban cities - Tokyo/Seoul/Berlin/Hong Kong/London

TARGET MARKET

&

PSYCHOGRAPHICS

New-Wave culturalist Intellectual/Artistic/Independent Persona Has a busy life in the thriving city with work but highly enjoy her leisure time and cultured society Working in creative industry design production: Creative director/Fashion designer/Art director Interactive: Web designer/Fashion editor/ Blogger Advertising & Marketing: Brand manager/ Public relation Shop twice in 1 to 3 months, collectative shopper Buying drive: Support the creativity/appreciated conceptual aesthetic/collecting artisanal pieces

MUSE

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JAMIE BOCHERT


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MARKET SECTOR

International Conceptual Store Price ranged from SGD 350 to SGD 2500 Primary market - Retailers & buyers Secodary market - Individuals Tertiary market - E-tailing Competitors - Maison Martin Margiela/AnnSofie Back/The Row


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COMPETITORS

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Ann Sofie Back Atelje Centered on a simplistic, Nordic-informed interpretation of the avant-garde, taking artistic approach as personal design philosophy to present the idea of new feminity. KEY POINTS: $300 - $2800 Non trend driven Strong design elements Intellectual idea behind design


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Maison Martin Margiela Revolting against the luxurious fashion world with garments of oversized proportions such as long arms, and with linings, seams and hems on the outside.Embraced the idea of reconstruction and deconstruction. KEY POINTS: $300 - $3000 Strong identity of artistic approach Sensational + alternative designs Strong concept Quality of construction & workmanship


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Ann Sara Davik Reconstruct garment that witness the designer’s conceptual engagement, sensation direction of material used and emotional approach of it design direction. KEY POINTS: $600 - $2800 Strong concept Intellectual + ritual garments Non trend driven


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PRESS RELEASE

as.sem.blage Recalling of Time and Memory “The body become the ‘reality’ of an experience where garment embodied the memory of the past.”

as.sem.blage - EDISON WONG Fall Winter 2014 collection inspired by the work of Francis Bacon. Francis Bacon was an Irish-born British figurative painter known for his violent and emotionally raw imagery. Edison Wong is interested in the idea of reminscent of the past memory and reconnect people with their memory through recycling found object like vintage denim jacket, old curtain and leather scraps.

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Reflect on today issue of sustainability, Edison Wong intend to provokes the message as the garment not just a physical object but it is something that bonding the memory and experience of it wearer time after time. This collection created based on Edison’s personal memories and experiences. It is a documentation of recalling the memory through the process of collecting old material.At the same time, transform those found object into something that reveal it beauty rather than it bored-everydayness.

For more information please contact: EDISON WONG edisonwong@hotmail.sg +65 96698855


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COLLECTION


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LINE UP


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as.sem.blage Recalling of Time and Memory


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EDISON WONG FALL WINTER 2014/2015 COLLECTION


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Denim Patchworks


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LEATHER PATCHWORKS

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COSTING SHEET


Costing Sheet Style

Season

FW14 D01

FW14

52

Number

“CURTAIN DRESS�

# 24 Hour used to complete # Rework on a piece of old curtain

Width or Size

Details

Cotton Curtain

-100% Cotton -Aged tone -Curtain loops

Trims

Details

Unit Price Quantity Total

Robe

-3 yarn twisted forming -Beige colour

$8.00

Retail $770.00

3 Metre

Price

Costing Total

Materials

$20.00

$20.00

1

$8.00

Making Price

$600

First Cost

$28

% Margin

$170


Costing Sheet 53

Style

Season

FW14 J01

FW14

Number

“QUILTED BACON JACKET�

# 50 Hour used to complete # Rework on a piece of oversized Malboro men vintage denim jacket

Width or Size

Details

Denim Jacket

-Vintage Malboro Jacket

$73.00

Trims

Details

Unit Price Quantity Total

Quilting

Retail $1890.00

Price

Costing Total

Materials

$4.00

$73.00

3$

12.00

Making Price

$1380

First Cost

$85

% Margin

$510


Costing Sheet Style

Season

FW14 P01

FW14

Number

54

“CURTAIN PANTS�

# 24 Hour used to complete # Binding finishing # Cut on one piece of old curtain

Width or Size

Details

Cotton curtain

-off white 2 Metre -curtain loops -double folding hem

$14.00

Trims

Details

Unit Price Quantity Total

Buttons

-cement textured

$1.004

$4.00

Making Price

$600

First Cost

$18

% Margin

$110

Retail $710.00

Price

Costing Total

Materials

$14.00


Costing Sheet 55

Style

Season

FW14 KO01

FW14

Number

“MIXED KNITTED JACKET�

# 40 Hour used to complete # 8 Hour of textile manipulation # Mixing leather strips and denim strips

Materials

Details

Width or Size

Special treated 2 Metre Cotton fabric with cotton fabric cracked effect Denim

Price

Costing Total

$54.00

$143

Using 1 vintage denim jacket

Leather Trims

Details

Unit Price Quantity Total

Snap Buttons

-Black colour

$0.80

Retail $2020.00

3$

2.40

Making Price

$1200

First Cost

$136

% Margin

$820


Costing Sheet Style

Season

FW14 J01

FW14

Number

56

“DOUBLE HEM 8”JEANS”

# 8 Hour used to complete # Recut on one vintage denim jacket

Width or Size

Materials

Details

Denim Fabric

Sourced from 1.5 Metre salvation army One piece$

Denim Jacket

Price

Costing Total

$25.00

$35.00

10.00

Trims

Details

Unit Price Quantity Total

Buttons

Cement textured

$1.00

1

Jeans Button

Rust textured

$2.50

1

Retail $470.00

$3.00

Making Price

$240

First Cost

$38

% Margin

$230


Costing Sheet 57

Style

Season

FW14 TD01

FW14

Number

“SQUARE TOP-DRESS�

# 8 Hour used to complete # Cut on one piece of old curtain

Width or Size

Details

Cotton Curtain

-off white color 1.5 Metre -original seam of old curtain

$10.00

Trims

Details

Unit Price Quantity Total

Retail $300.00

Price

Costing Total

Materials

$10.00

Making Price

$240

First Cost

$10

% Margin

$60


Costing Sheet Style

Season

FW14 KO02

FW14

Number

58 “CRACKED KNITTED JACKET�

# 8 Hour of textile manipulation # 30 Hour used to complete

Materials

Details

Width or Size

Price

Costing Total

Special treated 3 Metre Cotton fabric with cotton fabric cracked textured

$82.00

Trims

Details

Unit Price Quantity Total

Snaps Buttons

Black colour

$0.80

Retail $1520.00

$82.00

1

$0.80

Making Price

$1020

First Cost

$82

% Margin

$500


Denim Patchworks

Costing Sheet 59

Style

Season

FW14 P02

FW14

Number

“ASSEMBLAGE’ PANTS”

# 24 Hour used to complete # Multi pieces of scraps denim being used

Width or Size

Details

Denim

Two denim jacket + Unwanted denim scraps

$74.00

Trims

Details

Unit Price Quantity Total

Buttons

Retail $870.00

Price

Costing Total

Materials

$1.004

$74.00

$4.00

Making Price

$420

First Cost

$78

% Margin

$450


Costing Sheet Style

Season

FW14 P03

FW14

Number

60

“BLACK WALL CHUNKIES PANTS�

# 18 Hour used to complete # 4 Hour of textile manipulation # Hand painted

Width or Size

Details

Linen

Acrylic painting 3 Metre with cracked coating

$60.00

Trims

Details

Unit Price Quantity Total

Buttons

Retail $860.00

Price

Costing Total

Materials

$1.004

$60.00

$4.00

Making Price

$480

First Cost

$64

% Margin

$380


Costing Sheet Style

Season

FW14 T01

FW14

Number

61 “CHAOS TOP�

# 20 Hour used to complete # Hand-tacking

Width or Size

Details

Leather

Collected leather scraps

$35.00

Trims

Details

Unit Price Quantity Total

Leather Bucket

Retail $780.00

Price

Costing Total

Materials

$6.00

$35.00

1

$6.00

Making Price

$540

First Cost

$41

% Margin

$240


Costing Sheet Style

Season

FW14 T02

FW14

Number

62 “APRON TOP�

# 10 Hour used to complete

Materials

Details

Cotton Curtain

-off white -cut on one piece of old curtain

Trims

Details

Retail $300.00

Width or Size 1.5 Metre

Price

Costing Total

$10.00

$10.00

Unit Price Quantity Total

Making Price

$240

First Cost

$10

% Margin

$60


Costing Sheet 63

Style

Season

FW14 S01

FW14

Number

“PAD SKIRT�

# 16 Hour used to complete

Width or Size

Price

Costing Total

Materials

Details

Leather

Sourced from Salvation Army

$35.00

Details

Unit Price Quantity Total

$35.00

Denim

Trims Leather straps buckles

Retail $640.00

$8.00

2$

16.00

Making Price

$340

First Cost

$51

% Margin

$300


Costing Sheet Style

Season

FW14 C01

FW14

Number

64

“PATCHED LEATHER COAT”

# 45 Hour used to complete

Materials

Details

Price

Costing Total

$120.00$

Leather/ Suede/ Fur

Trims

Width or Size

Details

Leather straps with metal hook

Retail $2080.00

120.00

Unit Price Quantity Total $8.00

2$

16.00

Making Price

$1260

First Cost

$136

% Margin

$820


EDISON WONG

BA(hons) FASHION DESIGN & TEXTILE 2013 LASALLE College of the Arts Singapore


[as.sem.blage] by EDISON WONG