Edible San Diego ¡BAJA! 29 May-June 2015

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{Two Cents} Even though dietary proscriptions against cholesterol, saturated fat and salt have recently been discredited, our fears and uncertainties about consuming them linger. So too many of us have lingering fears about heading south of the border. Memories of drug-war violence and onerously long waits at the border crossing conspire to deter visitors from exploring the rich cultural offerings and natural beauty of Baja California. I have had sympathy for this increasingly misguided attitude since I tend to be faint of heart myself when it comes to venturing into unknown territory. But recently I have overcome my trepidations and have been richly rewarded. With the guidance of more adventurous friends, I look forward to expanding my exploration of Baja California.

Photo: David Pattison

Gone are the days of three-plus hour crossings. Since the completion of an ambitious expansion project at the San Ysidro crossing in 2014 (now with 25 lanes), average wait times are less than 50 minutes except between the hours of 12 noon and 10 pm on weekends (peaking between 2pm and 6pm), when the average wait time is only 50 to 72 minutes. (traffic.calit2.net) The feuding between drug cartels that fueled rampant, public violence in 2008-10 has ended, and the citizens of Tijuana and Ensenada now feel safe again. Most restaurants, wineries and other destinations employ bilingual staff, and the cost of almost every product and service is significantly lower than in the U.S. There are so many delightful culinary and cultural experiences to be had in Baja these days we can't even come close to sharing them all with you in this Baja issue. We Riley Davenport and John Vawter hope you will find the time and temerity to take a little road trip to some of the excellent finds we do share with you in this issue. If you want to hit the places mentioned herein, take this route starting at the San Ysidro border: 1. Take the ramp right for Via Rápida Poniente toward Playas de Tijuana/Rosarito Cuato. 2. Take the ramp right for Carretera Ensenada-Tijuana toward Playas de Tijuana/Ensenada. 3. C ontinue onto MEX-1D/Carretera Ensenada-Tijuana/Carretera Transpeninsular highway. Continue for 56.1 miles until the sign appears for Ensenada. 4. Your first stop will be Muelle 3. Have a bite to eat, stroll along the seaside and explore Mercado Negro. (The smoked marlin at the fish market is worth the trip.) Article on page 13. 5. Next stop is Malva Cocina in Valle de Guadalupe. Follow the instructions in the article on page 30. 6. I f you have room for more excellent food, visit Deckman's en el Mogor, just 15 minutes north of Malva Cocina at Km 96. Article about el Mogor on page 18. 7. Check out the Guadalupe Valley Wine Museum on the Ruta del Vino. Article on page 4. 8. Adobe de Guadalupe will be your last stop. If you plan it right, spend the night and have a charming breakfast al fresco before heading home. Article on page 27.

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edible San Diego

May-June 2015

Member of Edible Communities

CONTRIBUTORS

PUBLISHERS Riley Davenport John Vawter

EDITOR

DESIGNER drink. good read.

• no. 28 • marchapril 2015

COVER PHOTO Chris Rov Costa

Leyla Javadov of Café 21 terryl Gavre Pays it forward Women of the Land san diego Wom en's Wine Allian ce francois Goed huys, Pioneer of farm-to-tab le

No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. © 2015 All rights reserved.

Riley Davenport, Executive Editor Every effort is made to Britta Kfir, avoid errors, misspellings Managing Editor and omissions. If an error comes to your attention, COPY EDITORS please let us know Doug Adrianson and accept our sincere apologies. Thank you. John Vawter

Riley Davenport good food. good

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