The FREE foodie magazine for Brighton & Hove | summer 2011
the sustainable issue! bee keeping | cocktails | fish & chips | dog friendly pubs & more1
Foragers pub Support your local. It’s not just our locally-sourced, seasonal, organic food which is highly acclaimed. Our secluded beer garden boasts a ‘Best in Bloom’ award and is the perfect sunny spot to catch up with friends and family for an alfresco lunch or dinner. Our friendly staff serve a specially selected range of premium spirits, wines, beers & ales. Children’s & bar snack menus now available DJs on Friday & Saturday nights in the front bar Our back bar is available for private functions For exclusive offers follow us on Twitter & Facebook
For more information call 01273 733134 or visit www.theforagerspub.co.uk 3 Stirling Place • Hove • East Sussex • BN3 3YU • firstname.lastname@example.org 2
summer in the city... Welcome to the summer issue of edible. We’ve been loving this great weather and hoping we’re going to see plenty more this year so we’re celebrating the great outdoors; blue skies, and persevering in true British spirit, even if it does get a little windy or wet! We often wonder which season we prefer; the summer months wandering amongst freshly cut grass, smelling the outdoor cooking or sitting outside a street café enjoying the great things our city has to offer. The colder months have their merits too, but for now we’ll carry on making the most of it until we have to get the big coat out and move inside one of our amazing pubs. We’ve got some great stuff going on inside this issue... We look at food sustainability and have some fabulous seasonal recipes. We’re shown how to mix up some great cocktails. Andrew Kay chats to us about his foodie likes and dislikes. We take the dog for a walk - stopping off for a well earned drink in our dog friendly pub guide, and we eat our way around a few of the best fish and chip shops. And that’s just for starters. So, mix a Mojito, grab your sunglasses and put your feet up with your favourite foodie magazine! the edible team
Be local buy local............... 7
What to eat now................. 9
Your letters ........................... 6
Warm artichoke & asparagus salad.................10
Mix it up - cocktails......... 14
Grilled bream...................... 11
Sustainable fishing........... 18
Local hero ..........................23
Urban bee keeping..........26
Raspberry mess with toasted almonds...............12
Fish & chip review............ 31
Dog friendly pubs.............29
Food for thought............. 40
Summer gardening......... 44
Q & A: Andrew Kay..........47
word of mouth
Edible Magazine Limited. www.ediblemagazine.co.uk General enquiries email@example.com Creative director & design Amy Johnston t: +44 (0)7983 430079 firstname.lastname@example.org Managing editor Steve Buckland t: +44 (0)7968 449559 email@example.com Editorial director & photography Emma Gutteridge t: +44 (0)7702 340727 firstname.lastname@example.org Thanks to our contributors: Kerrith Etkin-Bell; Timothy Carroll; Jess Crocker; Sarah Cheeseman; Jon Goldsmith; Rob Silverstone; Tom Tanner; Vera Zakharov. © 2011 edible magazine limited. All rights reserved. Edible magazine is edited, designed & published by edible magazine. No part of edible magazine may be reproduced, transmitted, stored electronically, distributed, or copied, in whole or part without the prior written consent of the publisher. Opinions expressed in this publication do not necessarily reflect those of the editor or edible magazine. www.facebook.com/ediblemag www.twitter.com/ediblemag http://ediblemagazine.blogspot.com
When you have finished with this magazine, please recycle it or give it to someone else to enjoy. Printed by MCR on FSC mixed source paper using vegetable-based inks
Next issue out autumn/winter
issue 4 summer
the magnificent seven Brighton has the highest number of Sustainable Restaurant Association member restaurants, seven: Due South, Preston Park Tavern, The Chimney House, Chilli Pickle, Moshi Moshi, Fishy Fishy and The Real Eating Company. Diners interested in how a restaurant sources its food, what it does with waste and how it treats its staff and interacts with its community, are spoilt for choice. You can become Friends of the SRA, and receive a monthly newsletter, invitations to events and regular updates. Download the Do Some Good app at: www.orange.co.uk/DoSomeGood, answer the simple questions and they’ll contact the restaurant to celebrate what it’s doing well and offer to help it improve on those areas that aren’t quite up to scratch.
It’s British chilli season... so to coincide with this, Coriander Restaurant & Deli is celebrating Mexican food culture. Join them on 20 July for a night of Mexican street food (it’s all the rage in London), or pop along for their Mexican themed cookery lesson on 27 July. Call 01273 730850 or follow them on Facebook. There will be freebies for the first 10 people to book.
the cupboard under the stairs... Brighton’s leading cocktail bar and events company, Mixology Group, have unveiled ‘The Cupboard Under the Stairs’ a magnificent private venue in Brighton. Set back from Western Road, the contemporary basement bar is available for events and will host training sessions, consumer tastings and cocktail masterclasses which all make great entertainment. There is an exciting programme of events and courses to be published soon. www.mixologygroup.co.uk The Brighton Beer Festival takes place 14-17 July, at The Old Paddling Pool, with over 250 top quality real ales, lagers, ciders, and hand crafted bespoke beers carefully selected from around the world. There will also be bands, live radio broadcasts, competitions, games, food stalls and a VIP area. www.beerfestbrighton.co.uk
celebrate summer! In celebration of their 10th Anniversary, Indian Summer has undergone a transformation - a whole new décor as well as a new evening and lunch menu. The food is bursting with even more flavours and lunch now includes a street food menu. For details visit www.indian-summer.org.uk
ant to advertise in our next issue? Call Amy on 07983 430079 W Steve on 07968 449559 or email email@example.com
Boho’s charity scoop
When Boho Gelato opened almost exactly one year ago, owner Seb Cole set a target to create 200 flavours in 12 months. Their creations range from passionfruit custard to peanut butter and jelly. However, flavour of the moment is the winner of The Great Brighton Ice Cream Competition. ‘Brighton Rose’, by Jay Joshi of Carlton Hill Primary, is a delicately perfumed blend of yoghurt and rose oil based on the Indian drink Rose Lassi. ‘Brighton Rose’ is currently stocked at Boho Gelato, Pizzaface, Food for Chefs, The Green Mango & The Hove Kitchen and 10% of all revenue will be donated to local children’s charity Rockinghorse.
Albion pies Public voting is now open for the Brighton & Hove Foodie Awards. The top three in each category will be announced on the second Friday of every month by Andrew Kay of Latest7 magazine and Andrea Fox of Juice FM, until they present the winners with their awards at an exciting Brighton & Hove Foodies Awards party in October. www.brighton foodawards.com
The Amex Stadium will be the first stadium in the country to bake its own pies in-house, in a unique partnership between the Amex catering team and Shoreham-based baker Joanna Philips from Piglet’s Pantry. ‘Albion pies’ will come in three flavours: chicken, gammon and leek in a creamy sauce; steak and Harveys ale with mushrooms; and butternut squash and coriander, with roasted vegetables in a spicy tomato sauce.
Happy 1st birthday to Brighton Farm Market! They’ll be one year old in August. www.brightonfarmmarket.co.uk
Aquapax is one of the purest natural mineral waters in the world (suitable for infants) packaged in a beautifully designed majority paper carton. Winner of the coveted QATRAH award as ‘Best Bottled Water’, Aquapax stays noticeably fresher, protected with absolute integrity in its ecochic, re-usable and wholly recyclable container. The iconic blue cartons are now widely available through quality independent minded bars, cafés and retailers across the UK and Europe, including Infinity Foods, plus selected supermarkets. www.aquapax.co.uk
A former investment banker turned shopkeeper, is refurbishing the derelict antiques auction house in Upper Gardner Street to create a superb local food store and restaurant, Thorne’s Foods. Jason Hurwitz aims to take on supermarkets by making fresh, seasonal and local food available, with opening hours to suit busy lifestyles. The store will include; a high quality butcher, fishmonger, grocer, baker, a deli counter, wine and lots more local, fresh produce. It doesn’t stop there either food will also be served in a market kitchen upstairs allowing customers to taste what’s on offer and in season, whilst helping to manage wastage through the shop. Thorne’s Foods opens in August and Jason intends to hold a range of community events to involve and encourage local people to buy local. www.thornesfoods.co.uk
Good wood Grocer and Grain is stocking local sustainable barbeque charcoal & netted wood. They also have local compost for your planting, so there’s no need to drag yourselves to a far flung garden centre any more! Call 01273 823455. 5
bouche A friend at work cooks fish fingers in the microwave, not sure how safe this is. Worst still are his sausages!
My stepdad introduced me to broken biscuit sandwiches... the biscuits were from the market and mostly malted milks, smashed up and stuffed between buttered white bread... I still crave them occasionally. just suggested from the sofa... choccy digestives & gorgonzola. mint sauce & mustard sandwich - yum!
The thing is, if people eat them, they don’t often think they’re weird. I don’t think my peanut butter & cucumber sandwiches are weird, but others do. I get mocked for my cheese & apple sandwiches too (got to be mature cheddar & granny smith apples though)
Do you have any funny foodie faux pas? We’d love to hear from you: firstname.lastname@example.org 6
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your letters Got something to tell us? We’d love to hear from you. We’ll give the sender of the best email a Fishy Fishy cookbook showcasing over 90 recipes from Dermot O’Leary and friends, as well as a pack of tasty Fishy Fishy condiments. Email us at email@example.com. Dear edible, “I have recently moved to Brighton and have noticed the amount of restaurants and great places to eat. I picked up a copy of your mag and will be trying out some of your recommendations in due course. I also notice that a lot of places are advertising locally sourced food, how would you know that it actually is? Thanks. Hilary, BN1 We’re glad you’ve found us and hope you’re enjoying edible! Funny you should ask actually, we’ve been looking into this matter and hoping to report on it in the near future. We suggest asking your waiter or server where the food has been sourced from and they should have an answer for you. Be rest assured though, trading standards recently investigated 35 random venues claiming their food was locally sourced and only one couldn’t substantiate the claims. Well done all! Hi edible,, I’ve recently discovered edible magazine, and think it’s brilliant! I just have a query on a recipe that grabbed my eye, and want to try out. It’s on page 11 - roasted radish and asparagus salad. The recipe instead, says to steam the asparagus, and then once refreshed with cold water, add to the radish and leaves (there’s been no mention of cooking the radish at this point). So my question is... Where does the ‘roasting’ come in? Barbara, via email Hi Barbara, As creator of the recipe, I apologise! I originally planned to do a roasted asparagus recipe but as the recipe evolved I decided to use a different method. By this time I had already started writing the recipe and the wrong title slipped under the net. Sorry for any confusion. I hope you enjoyed the recipe regardless! Emma.
be local, buy local How realistic is shopping local? What benefits does it really have? Well, I put on my investigative head and bought a selection of groceries in a supermarket, and then bought exactly the same weight of items from independent shops (I made pork stew, if you’re interested). Here’s the results... - Emma Gutteridge Supermarket shopping basket: Total cost: £13.15 Distance travelled: approx 10,000 miles
Independent shopping basket: Total cost: £12.38 Distance travelled: approx 100 miles
Let’s face it, most supermarkets look the same, so there wasn’t really anything to get excited about. On the upside, I knew where everything was going to be and I could buy some toilet roll at the same time. What really got to me was the packaging, why feel the need to pack everything in cellophane? I also noticed that my recycling bin was notably fuller once I’d finished preparing my dish, and I worried about the effect of the packaging on my food. The taste of my produce was pretty standard and I certainly didn’t feel very passionate about the ingredients I was cooking with.
Stepping inside the greengrocers, in comparison to my supermarket visit a few hours before, I was filled with excitement. I love seeing all different sizes and shapes of vegetables and the shop smelt so nice. I was asked if I needed help as I was clearly struggling to get exact weights. Having bought my beautiful unpackaged veg, I made my way to the butcher. He couldn’t have been more helpful, and after a bit of banter I trotted home to prepare my dish. The vegetables were so tasty and the pork a lot leaner than that I’d bought in the supermarket, so there was more to enjoy too.
Verdict: A bit of a no brainer really! I was very pleased to find my basket came in under the price of the supermarket basket and the independent experience was much more enjoyable. It was enough to convince me to never shop in a supermarket again. 7
what to eat now
issue 4 summer
mer season -
Don’t miss out on these seasonal summer sizzlers Artichoke
An artichoke isn’t the quickest vegetable to prepare, though they do make for a splendid salad or pasta sauce. Artichokes aren’t grown extensively in this country so grab them while you can. Pick artichokes that have good looking, tightly closed leaves. Iron, copper and aluminium cookware will discolour your artichoke so go with stainless steel.
Bream is a beautiful fish to eat, not unlike sea bass - it’s meaty and tender and it’s pretty cheap to buy too if you get from a local fishmonger. It also looks impressive when it comes off a grill. See our recipe for an idea of how to cook, but you can also bake, fry, griddle or steam. You can stuff the fish with fennel and lemon when cooking.
Ah, asparagus season. It’s a short one – just May through to early July so take advantage of this amazing food while it’s available. Asparagus is extremely high in folic acid and is also packed full of vitamin C and anti-carcinogenic properties. Look for stalks with good colour and closed tips.
Summer is all about raspberries. This colourful fruit is high in fibre and has anti-inflammatory properties. Raspberries make a wonderful coulis for desserts. You can also make jam or bake them in muffins and cakes. Raspberries also work well with chocolate tarts, in juices or ice cream and are especially good in cocktails.
Beetroot It’s difficult to not get excited by beetroot, it’s so incredibly nutritious and tasty. It livens up any salad and makes for beautiful juices when teamed with ginger. You can also add to a kebab for your barbecue, it’s sweetness will work beautifully with diced pork. Beetroot is renowned for it’s liver cleansing properties, perfect to aid that summer partying.
Runner beans Perfect accompaniments to fish, runner beans are an asset of British summertime. Look for good colours and pert pods that snap easily. Beans are best eating as fresh as possible as the beans’ sugars begin turning to starch after a few days. As well as fish, runner beans go with a lot of food and are great in salads when cooked ‘al dente’ first.
Warm artichoke & asparagus salad
This is a hearty salad that has a real touch of class. You can also add pine nuts if you wish.
For the salad: 2 artichokes 1 bunch of asparagus, with the tough stems removed and chopped diagonally Salad leaves of your choice 1 tbsp of balsamic vinegar 2-3 sprigs of thyme ½ lemon For the dressing: 1 clove of garlic, finely chopped 1 small red onion, finely chopped A small handful of chives ½ lemon 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar Seasoning
off the heat. Add this mixture • In a pan add enough cold • Prepare the artichoke – cut to a jug and add a small water to cover the artichokes. in half and discard the tops amount of balsamic vinegar Add a tbsp of balsamic of the artichoke. Remove and and enough olive oil for it to vinegar, some sprigs of thyme discard the stem, then pull become slightly runny. and the juice of 1 lemon. off the tough outer leaves at Return to your artichokes the base by pulling down. • Now back to the vegetables and trim off the blackened Trim around the base to - add the asparagus to the parts before quickly slicing remove what remains of the artichokes if it’s been boiling lengthways. Then add to your outer leaves to leave only the for the 10 minutes. Boil for a pan and bring to the boil for white part. Using a spoon, further 5 minutes and drain 10 minutes. scoop out the hairy ’choke’ and refresh in cold water in the middle and discard. • Heat the olive oil in a frying • Toss in some torn salad leaves, You’ll notice your artichokes pan and add the red onion arrange on the plates, and become blackened quite until browned. Stir in the spoon the dressing on top. quickly, don’t worry, this is chives, garlic and juice of the quite normal. other half of lemon and turn 10
issue 4 summer
Grilled bream Quick to prepare & easy to cook, this is summer food at it’s best. We recommend one fish per person Ingredients: 1 bream per person (ask your fishmonger to gut & scale) Sea salt; butter; olive oil; 1 lemon •
Make 3 slits in each side of your fish and rub in some olive oil and salt
Place a few quarters of lemon into the middle of your fish
Heat a knob of butter in a griddle pan or barbecue (if using a barbecue, you may want to cover the grill with pierced foil and omit the butter)
Place your fish in the pan or on the grill and cook on a moderate heat for approx 4-5 mins (or until the fish comes clean away from the pan and doesn’t stick)
Repeat for the other side
Serve with a quarter of lemon for squeezing.
Where to buy your seasonal produce Hankham Organics grow everything local and all of their produce is from Sussex. They do an amazing veg box that is very flexible. Call them on 01323 741000. Riverford Organics offer an excellent veg box scheme. www.riverford.co.uk The fish hut near the King Alfred is your must stop shop for all your fresh fish. It’s caught that morning and the service is second to none. Ask Tony and his team what to do with your fish, they’re full of ideas. Brighton & Newhaven Fish Sales can be found near Hove lagoon (Basin Road South) and is open Mon-Sat, 8am-4pm. Archer’s in Hanover provide locally sourced, free range and additive free meat. Tucked away on Islingword Road, they open from 8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-4pm Sat. In Hove you can find RC Seckers on Richardson Road, and Canham & Sons on Church Road, both supplying locally produced meat and poultry, plus seasonal game. Thorne’s Foods (opening in August) offers local produce all under one roof including a fishmonger, butcher, grocer, deli, and wine shop. 11
Raspberry mess with toasted almonds Serves 2 (double ingredients to serve 4)
An extremely simple recipe that can be frozen. It’s simple to make while outdoors, or you could make it in advance using frozen raspberries. Ingredients: 1-2 punnets of raspberries (depending on taste and budget) 1 pot of fromage frais; 3 meringue nests; flaked almonds; cocoa powder for dusting • Crumble your meringue nests into a bowl and mix in the fromage frais • Add half of the raspberries and mix, taking care not to break the raspberries • Spoon into tall dessert glasses • Put a handful of flaked almonds into a pan and heat on the hob for 1-2 minutes until the flakes start browning and remove from the heat • Arrange the remaining raspberries on the top and sprinkle on some of the toasted almonds • Dust with cocoa powder 12
issue 4 summer
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Scoop & crumb_Layout 1 19/04/2011 09:11 Page 1
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UK’s largest ice cream sundae menu with over 50 choices! Tantalising selection of hot dogs, toasties and sandwiches!
Independent business with a passion for local sourcing!
50 seats spread over two floors to unwind in!
Brighton’s Coolest Café is ready to put a smile on your face! 5 & 6 East Street, BN1 1HP, Tel 01273 202563
cooler shaker You can’t beat a good cocktail on a hazy day but like our food, we should be stopping to think what goes in our drinks. Timothy Carroll from the Mixology Group tells us how to treat your cocktail with the respect it deserves.
“This summer, try drinks that call for more locally available lemons rather than limes, or sweetened with British sugars or honeys”
issue 4 summer
My first exposure to the wonders of the cocktail occurred one bright summers’ afternoon, after painting my grandparent’s garden fence. It had been a long day in the blistering sun, and the tedious back and forth of my paintbrush against rough timber had almost hypnotised me by 5 o’clock. Grandma beckoned me to the kitchen, explaining that by her watch it was cocktail hour. After spending a while mixing liquids for a living, I had come to realise that my Grandma was fixing some pretty awful drinks in those days. The basics such as ice and garnish were notable by their absence, the choice of ingredients uninspired at best. I’m happy to say that the drinks world, much like the realms of gastronomy has moved on since then. Just as we increasingly examine the provenance of our ingredients and strive to improve our methods in the kitchen, so too are we seeking more from our drinks.
Many popular cocktails owe their deliciousness to the balance of sweet and sour, traditionally achieved by mixing the tart juice of citrus fruit with sugar. The famed Mojito for instance, balances lime juice against sugar syrup and without these two ingredients would be rather bland indeed. Next we come to the rum, a tropical spirit so magical and enigmatic that the variety available across the category is simply staggering. With all the air miles in your glass, it might seem that applying the same rigorous code to your cocktails as you do your food is not going to work. Ethics, practical sustainability and the enjoyment of mouthwatering cocktails however, are not mutually exclusive events. A good place to start of course is the alcohol itself. Whilst rum may be a bit out of our league for now, the UK is home to a budding boutique distilling movement.
A growing number of artisan distillers are beginning to redraw the lines in the market place. There are some very well crafted domestic vodkas and gins emerging, some of which offer organic credentials or commitments to locally sourced ingredients, even ‘green’ distilling. In terms of citrus fruit, a quick trip to a local grocers or supermarket will highlight the difficulties of obtaining limes from anywhere outside of the tropics. Lemons on the other hand can be grown on much more local soil. Although the latter half of summer up to about October sees the ‘southern hemisphere’ phase of the cycle, citrus importer Alan Clarke indicates that for most of the year, lemons are largely imported from Spain or Turkey. Mouth-watering Amalfi lemons with their succulent flesh and abundantly floral flavour are also available online, or you could ask your grocer to get them in for you.
Sweetness wise, half of the sugar we use comes from sugar beet, which is grown and processed in the UK. According to the Sugar Bureau, the crystallisation of sugar renders the substance as 99.95% sucrose and the finished product is identical irrespective of the source. The differences between various sugars available are largely down to the refining process used and the level to which they are refined. British Sugar makes sugar from beets and they are considered internationally to be the most efficient producer in Europe. Their factories generate their own electricity and waste is recycled for various uses, creating sustainable products. The government has recognised the growing of sugar beet in the UK to have significant environmental benefits. For those wary of refined sugar, an exciting and topical alternative can be found in honey. British honey is easier to find than you might think and there are a number of small
producers caring for honey bees as they craft delicious honeys with the flavours of our hedgerows, meadows and herb gardens. The British Honey Association estimates that we can only produce about one eighth of the honey we consume in the UK, citing that the unpredictable climate limits our production, but the more British honey we buy, the more beekeepers will operate during our fickle season. Whatever the weather, honeys collected on our shores offer a wide array of flavour profiles and are packed with glucose and fructose which some believe to be healthier than sucrose-laden sugar. This summer, try drinks that call for more locally available lemons rather than limes, or sweetened with British sugars or honeys. The true beauty with cocktails is that they are constantly evolving and whilst there are long standing success stories such as the mighty Mojito, there is always room for something new.
Greenhouse Summer should be all about refreshment so Timothy shares his favourite summertime cocktail recipe with you for when you need a citrus kick. We’ve tried it and trust us, it’s amazing. 12oz hiball glass Crushed ice 3 slices cucumber 3 slices lemon • muddle these in the bottom of the glass • add in 6 mint leaves and 50ml English gin or vodka if you prefer • add a small amount of honey to taste (works well to mix 2:1 honey: water first, then add 10-20ml of this mixture) • fill with crushed ice & stir vigorously • garnish with mint, cucumber and lemon. Emma Gutteridge
issue 4 summer
Brighton Rocks is a dog-friendly bar in the heart of Kemp town. With a wide selection of wines, freshly roasted coffee and sublime cocktails, there’s something for everyone. We offer high quality, fresh, local food, prepared by Haider our chef. Our friendly, approachable staff will make you feel right at home. We don’t just cater to humans; your furry friends are welcome too! Bring them and meet our resident greyhounds! Enjoy all we have to offer in our laid-back bar or on our sun-terrace, perfect for those sunny days and warm nights. So come down, relax, unwind and indulge with us at Brighton Rocks. Brighton Rocks • 6 Rock Place • Kemptown • Brighton BN2 1PF • tel: 01273 600550 email@example.com • www.brightonrockspub.com
hook, line & thinker Fish is big news at the moment. Do you think about where your fish comes from and what impact it has on our future supplies?
It’s confusing – we’re told that fish supplies are being depleted, yet on the other hand told to eat fish for the nutritional benefits. If we stop buying fish will small fishing communities find themselves out of work? Should we be buying fish at all? The answer is yes, with a little conscientious buying.
issue 4 summer
The fact is that we are taking too many fish from our oceans, and if it carries on the fish stocks will collapse and the fishing industry will take a harder hit than if we reduce our buying now. You should always buy your fish from a retailer that can answer your questions on where your fish was bought
– if they can’t, don’t buy it. Go for species of fish that aren’t under threat – you can find a list on the Greenpeace site: www.greenpeace.org.uk or on our blog. The Sustainable Restaurant Association offers some excellent advice (opposite), so you can do your bit to help the fish crisis.
trawling the facts... What is sustainable seafood? • It is from healthy populations. • It has minimum environmental impact on other marine life. • It’s from a fishery or farm that is effectively managed. • It’s traceable from catch/farm to plate. • Look out for the Marine Stewardship Council’s (MSC) blue ecolabel www.msc.org. or The Marine Conservation Society’s ratings at www.fishonline.org/search/advanced How do you know if it is sustainable? By asking a few simple questions when buying fish, whether you’re in the fishmongers, restaurant or supermarket: • Which species is it? It sounds obvious but ‘tuna’ can be different species, so know your bluefin from your yellowfin. • Where was the fish caught or farmed? The sustainability of fish stocks and farming practices varies from place to place. • What capture or farming method was used? There’s a big difference between the various fishing methods. • It’s easy to remember these questions – just think WWW! Asking these questions is important, as it shows the fish-seller that you care about sustainability. Is farmed fish sustainable? • It depends on the management and techniques used; including stocking densities, feed type, and the impact on the surrounding environment. • Try something different. Give the old favourites like cod, salmon and tuna a rest, and try alternatives like pollack, coley, mackerel, crab or herring. Once you know the answers you can check out www.fishonline.org/search/advanced to see how the MCS rate the sustainability of the fish you’re buying. 19
fresh fish daily experienced staff trade prices free parking extended opening hours pre-orders taken
WH A RF RD
A great local retail experience. The shop by Hove Lagoon offers the widest selection of local fish & shellfish caught by our fleet of boats. We also stock seafood from further afield in order to offer our customers the best possible choice of seafood. From fresh fish to live shellfish, frozen & complimentary products, our skilled & knowledgeable team can assist you with the purchase & preparation of your seafood requirements.
Now running fish & shellfish preparation skills evening each month at our shop on 20 July & 24 August Call for more info or to book a place Brighton and Newhaven Fish Sales Open Mon-Sat 8-4pm • South Quay • Basin Road South Aldrington Basin Portslade • East Sussex • BN41 1WF
e: firstname.lastname@example.org t: 01273 420123 www.bnfs.co.uk issue 3 spring
Restaurants are a force for good in this world (so please stop going to the crap ones) Now there is a pretentious title if ever I’ve heard one but this is something I’d like you to think about. Why do we go out to eat? What’s the reason behind it, and what good does it do? Let’s take a quick trip back in time to ‘Ye Olde’ days... Restaurants, inns or pubs were a place for the community to come together, and to escape the pressures and stresses of everyday life over a mug or two of ale and an animal being spit roasted over an open fire. They were the hub of a society that was based on community. A place for Billy the blacksmith to meet with Victor the village idiot, and to forget their mutual stresses and spend their hard earned coppers and feel good about themselves and their fellow man. Flash forward a few hundred years and look at what we have on today’s high streets. Parade after parade of soulless identikit chain restaurants all asking you whether you would like to Mcsize your meal or offering you cheap drinks at rock bottom prices. What I find fascinating is taking a snapshot of how the rest of the world views us.
Let me work backwards a bit. On a recent holiday to Portugal, I ordered some coffee. The Portuguese do the most amazing strong espresso-like coffee called “Bica”. When I ordered a black coffee I got a weak insipid watery black water that
- Our resident Maître d’ Unfortunately there is only one place to lay the blame and that is on you! Yes I’m sorry to say, but it is your fault that we have got ourselves into this situation. Yet, all is not lost, here are some ideas on how we can make things better:
Here in Blightly we’re privileged to be the home of some of the best artisan food makers in the world barely could be called coffee. When I asked my waiter for a proper “Bica” he looked at me in shock and basically said “not for Inglese”. Now this may be a generalisation, but look at how “English” food culture is viewed abroad... Greasy egg and chips, white tea, and insipid coffee, with some more chips thrown into the mix. Is this really how we want our culture to be viewed abroad?
• Stop eating in chain restaurants. Do I really need to explain this one?
Back here in Blightly we’re privileged to be the home of some of the best artisan food makers in the world. From hand crafted sausages, to bespoke breadmakers, to cheeses that put the French to shame, we can boast some of the best food on the planet. Yet why is this not what we’re famous for?
• Get to know the restaurateurs in your area. Take time to build up a relationship with them, and them with you.
• Make eating out something that becomes not just a way of feeding ourselves but something that we can be proud of. Take the time to organise dinners with friends in good local restaurants. Make local restaurants into what they should be - the hub of the community.
• Don’t put up with crap. Demand better service, better drink, better food. It is your money that they are taking after all. 21
Fresh fish on the beach Fresh fish caught daily from our local boats perfect for your summer barbecue! A wide selection of shellfish now available Friendly service & advice • Retail & wholesale supplies Open Wednesday - Sunday 9am-2pm Visit us on the beach or call: 07889 913519 ON THE BEACH - KINGSWAY (JUST BEHIND HOVE KINGSWAY BOWLING CLUB & THE VIEW)
Grasmere Farm Shop Hove Speciality pork direct from our farm along with locally sourced beef, lamb, chicken and fine produce
With over a dozen varieties of speciality sausages and burgers to choose from along with specially selected bbq favourites, we can make sure you’re not missing out on any sizzle this summer. Follow us on Facebook & Twitter for exclusive deals and offers – see website for details www.gfsh.co.uk
214 Church Road (near the corner with Hove Street and Sackville Road), Hove, BN3 2DJ, Tel: 01273 774194, Email: email@example.com Home delivery now available
issue 4 summer
Jack and Linda have been trading under this arch for 4 years, however they’ve been running their smokehouse business under the set of arches for 15 years. They’re a cheerful couple who met many moons ago while out fishing. Their motivation behind starting the business was simple – they wanted to bring good, nutritious food to Brighton beach.
They prepare all the food themselves and offer amazing grub, which is perfect for on the go – hot mackerel or kipper in a roll, fish soups, dressed crab and pâtés. The smokehouse is open 7 days a week between 10am-5pm when the weather is fair. For keeping traditions going for all the right reasons – Jack and Linda, you’re our heroes.
Blatc hing ton R d
County Cricket Ground
Chur ch Rd
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Weste rn Rd Sq swick
Lan dsd own e
Hove Town Hall
Ho ve St
Chur ch Rd
1 Atlantis 28 Church Road, Town Centre, Hove BN3 2FN 2 Bankers Restaurant 116a Western Road, Brighton BN1 2AB 3 Bardsleys 22-23a Baker Street Brighton BN1 4JN 4 Brighton Farm Market Diplocks Yard, 73 North Road, Brighton BN1 1YD 5 Brighton & Newhaven Fish Sales Basin Road, South Portslade, Brighton BN41 1WF 6 Brighton Rocks 6 Rock Place Brighton, East Sussex BN2 1PF 7 Brighton Smokehouse on the seafront - next to the Brighton Fishing Museum 8 Elles Bells sausages at The Sussex Yeoman 7 Guildford Road, Brighton BN1 3LU 9 Fairtrade Spirits www.fairtradespirits.com 10 Foxy’s Roast & Grill 90 Goldstone Villas, Hove BN3 3RU 11 Fresh Fish on the Beach Kingsway, Hove (Just behind Hove & Kingsway Bowling Club) 12 Grassmere Farm Shop 214 Church Road, Hove BN3 2DJ 13 Mitre Tavern 13 Baker Street, Brighton BN1 4JN 14 Mixology Group The Cupboard under the Stairs, 4 Powis Road, Brighton BN1 3HJ 15 RC Secker 7 Richardson Road, Hove BN3 5RB 16 Recipease 72 - 73 Western Road, Brighton BN1 2HA 17 Sea Breeze 28 Southover Street, Brighton BN2 9UD 18 Scoop and Crumb 5-6 East Street, Brighton BN1 1HP
St. Ann’s Well Gardens
Crom well Rd
Shor eham Road
Sackv ille Rd
Richa rdson Rd
Port land Rd
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19 Small Batch Coffee 68 Goldstone Villas, Hove BN3 3RU 67c Church Road, Hove (corner of Church Road and Wilbury Road) & Brighton & Hove Stations 20 The Chimney House 28 Upper Hamilton Road, Brighton BN1 5DF 21 The Chip Basket 131 Church Road, Hove BN3 2AE 22 The Daily Catch 102 St. James’s Street, Brighton BN2 1TP 23 The Dyke Pub & Kitchen 218 Dyke Road, Brighton BN1 5AA 24 The Foragers Pub 3 Stirling Place, Hove BN3 3YU 25 The Town House 81-82 St James Street, Kemptown, Brighton BN2 1PA 26 Thorne’s Foods 39 upper Gardner Street, Brighton BN1 4AN 27 Viva Verde 4 Richardson Road, Hove BN3 5RB 28 Visitor Information Centre Royal Pavilion Shop, Royal Pavilion, 4-5 Pavilion Buildings, Brighton BN1 1EE
If you would like to feature on our map, email us at: firstname.lastname@example.org for more details 25
the bees beside We all know how good local honey is for us, especially during the hayfever season, but how easy is it to keep our own bees?
- Amanda Millar
“a swarm is usually pretty good tempered without a fixed abode to defend, they only become defensive if you go near their hive”
issue 4 summer
My reasons for keeping bees have changed over the years. When I first got them several years ago it was to improve pollination of my fruit and vegetables and satisfy an urge for self-sufficiency – and of course because I like honey. Then I became fascinated by their behaviour and biology, and the useful products of the hive: honey, pollen, propolis, wax for candles and cosmetics. Now the focus is more on their conservation as vital participants in a healthy ecosystem. If profit is your motive, forget it! It was six years before I broke even; cedar hives can cost around £200 each and it is a good idea to have two; if you lose the queen or one colony you can replace them with the help of the other. You will also need a spare hive to carry out artificial swarms. Swarming is the bees’ natural way of reproducing. But if you let your bees swarm away with half your foraging force you
will not get much honey and your neighbours might be frightened. A swarm is usually pretty good tempered without a fixed abode to defend, they only become defensive if you go near their hive, and this can be minimised by knowing their likes and dislikes. I keep the hives in my front garden, admittedly a good sized garden, but I am very careful about when I open them and the direction they are pointing so as to cause no grief to my neighbours. I try to keep gentle bees and any persistently angry colony is requeened. My husband now refuses to mow the lawn in the height of summer because they stung him once, but hey, the lawn is pretty with its clover, vetch and knapweed flowers and the bees love it. I don’t open the hives until the postman has been or if I hear my neighbours playing in the garden. Being aware of the diseases which bees are prone to, particularly when
the seaside they are under stress, is half the battle as well as avoiding things which cause them stress. Thankfully we don’t have the American problem; Chronic Collapse Disorder. However I do sometimes have to destroy a colony if it has a virus I don’t want spread to the others. From the end of March to the end of August, I look inside the hive about once a week to make sure they have enough space, enough food, have a queen, no sign of disease and to see if they are thinking about swarming. The main nectar flow is a few short weeks in July when I watch the weather conditions, and see whether the bees can go out to collect it to make their honey. In early August I extract the honey and start the important preparations for their winter such as treating against the dreaded Varroa mite, and making sure they have at least 40lb of honey to survive the long winter. If not I have to give them sugar syrup to make it up. In late September I tuck them up with a mouse guard to keep out the mice and a quilt to keep them warm on
top (yes seriously!) and leave them undisturbed. They will not hibernate as such, but will come out on fine days for water and early pollen, and in January they will be rearing new bees at an amazing 35 degrees centigrade in the centre of the cluster. In winter, I clean all my unused equipment, read bee books, and make candles! If your garden is less than 20ft long it might not be the right place for a hive, but some people have them on allotments or even on their garage roof, so the bees’ flight path is over people’s heads. Some find a place for their hives with people who have larger gardens, or find a friendly farmer with a corner of a field nearby. Failing that you could try a bumblebee or solitary bee nest box. And don’t forget to plant some early crocuses or go for some flowing shrubs to help them. Bees in towns seem to be doing quite well as people like to have a variety of flowers all year round in their gardens and they’re further from the damaging sprays that farmers apply to their fields.
I have to admit beekeeping has been a challenge, much more difficult than keeping chickens. Most people find they need to get some practical experience first, with a friendly beekeeper or your local Beekeeping group. www.brightonlewesbeekeepers. co.uk will provide plenty of support and enable you to get hands-on experience at their apiaries and help choose which type of hive is for you. They also run day courses which I would thoroughly recommend you go on, and visit the British Beekeepers Association website for further information. If you’re looking for some locally produced honey, Goldstone Villas honey is available from Grassmere Farm shop and Coriander Restaurant & Deli both in Hove, and Temptation café in Brighton.
13 BAKER STREET • BRIGHTON • BN1 4JN 01273 683173
Mitre tavern Elegantly cosy & stylish interior Hearty, wholesome modern British menu Vegetarian options always available Member of the Sustainable Restaurant Association Special children’s menu Superb Sussex reared roasts on Sundays Over 20 wines available by the glass Function room for meetings, private dining & parties 28 Upper Hamilton Road, Seven Dials, Brighton BN1 5DF Tel: 01273 556708 www.chimneyhousebrighton.co.uk
issue 4 summer
Good Beer Guide (CAMRA) • Cask Marque accredited The Mitre Tavern is a small, friendly local pub in the heart of Brighton. It prides itself on the quality of the beer it sells, including a selection of lager, cider, Guinness and five different Harveys of Lewes ales at a time. Cooked food 6 days a week 11.30am – 2.00pm The Mitre boasts an outdoor heated smoking garden, a men’s and ladies’ darts teams and a football team.
Whilst we all enjoy a nice drink, some of us have our four legged friends in tow. With the lighter evenings now here or for an afternoon stroll, why not try one of these pubs and let the hound relax too!
- Steve Buckland
The Stoneham Road, Hove 153 Portland : dog biscuits, The hound likes be attention, may of ts water & lo i on er pp pe of t even the odd bi e table. falling under th visit: pizzas, to s Other reason r and garden spacious interio
The Farm 13 Farm Road, Ho ve The hound likes: alw ays bowls of water, toys & us e of comfy dog bed if lucky Other reasons to vis it: good ales, friendly pub, upsta irs hideaway
The Dyke Tavern 218 Dyke Road, Brighton The hound likes: the large garden to run around & bowls of water Other reasons to visit: great food and wine, function room
The Eddy Road, 67A Upper Gloucester Brighton The Windmill Brighton dogs, 69 Upper North Street, The hound likes: other calm n two ’s ntio The Neptune ner atte ow of the lots s: water & The hound like , Hove seafront ming 10 Victoria Terrace ndly s, the outside area & roa dog Other reasons to visit: frie lks wa t afron beers the pub e nic und The hound likes: se aro sic, ly mu d free goo ir als, loc re, knowing the d food, with a stop off he Other reasons to visit: goo g biscuits ttin ge re, the y wa own area good beer, sunny front & love The Ginger Do g it: good 12 -13 College Plac Other reasons to vis The Foragers e, Kemptown s ale od go d an es music, blu 3 Stirling Place, Hove The hound likes : the name of the pub, orderin The hound likes: catching g a medium up rare burger & w with Molly (she was bor atching a dog n there), wedding (yes sunny front & rear garden there’s even be s en a dog wedding here!) Other reasons to visit: loc ern ally The Mitre Tav Ot her reasons to sourced food, good sele n visit: lovely food ction of 13 Baker Street, Brighto , nice wines, err wines & spirits, friendly - dog wedding sta ff nds frie his s!? all s: like nd The hou ter are there, & bowls of wa The Hop Poles the all Other reasons to visit: 13 Middle Street, South Lanes Harveys ales in one place The hound likes: water bowls, the daytime is better as it can The Evening Star get busy here 55-56 Surrey St. Brighto n Other reasons to visit: intimate The hound likes: chilled garden, hub cap art, nice food vibe, a happy owner with a goo d pint Other reasons to visit: gre at selection of real ales and ciders
next issue... the city’s cosiest fireside pubs
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Fried & tested We take it back to British and have a look at what our city has to offer for ye ole seaside town tradition - fish’n’chips. Tuck in! Atlantis
28 Church Road, Hove BN3 4JN Price: small cod and chips £4.30 Open: Mon-Sat 11:30am-11pm, Sun midday-10pm Atlantis has many things against it feeling like a proper chippie. It’s clean and shiny, they have “eco fryers” (whatever that means), there’s never anyone in there, it has the word “gourmet” on the sign and the food comes in boxes. I can see you already walking past. Before you shrug it off though, try the food. Unlike some chippies I could mention, you don’t get the sense of stodge hanging round with you for hours afterwards. The chips taste clean and as they refry the chips when you order, you do get that double dipped bonus. The fish is always cooked to order and the batter has that perfect balance between crispy and lightness. The price isn’t bad too; I paid £4.30 for a small cod and chips, with an extra quid for the obligatory portion of mushy peas. We have now started walking past our nearest chippy to grab our tea from Atlantis, which has to be a good sign. Ewan Swain, BN3
22/23a Baker Street, Brighton BN1 2FN Price: medium haddock & chips £9.20 (eat in); large cod & chips £11.20 (eat in) Open: Tues-Sat 11.30am-2.30pm (eat-in last orders 2pm), 4 -8.30pm (eat-in last orders 8pm) I have fond memories of going to Bardsleys as a child, so I was very excited about taking my husband there. This awardwinning restaurant has been family run for four generations. It has a reputation for its high quality fish & chips and friendly atmosphere. As well as traditional cod and haddock you can also choose from a variety of other fish including salmon, skate & plaice, all of which can be battered, grilled or poached. Seasonal starters are also available, and there’s good veggie options. Bardsleys is committed to sourcing fish from sustainable stocks. We decided to be posh and dine in. I had haddock and my husband had cod with chips, mushy peas and pickles. The batter was crisp and light, wrapped around perfectly cooked pure white fish with excellent chips. Nice little touches like the carefully arranged pickles made me smile! Bardsleys have been frying since 1926 and it’s easy to see why they’re so popular. Amy Johnston, BN3 31
Bankers 116 Western Road, BN1 2AB Price: small cod £3, regular chips £1.60 Open: 7 days 11.30am-10pm I hadn’t had fish and chips for a while so was looking forward to this. I chose Bankers as I hadn’t been before. The cod and chips were both ready, as a few items had to be cooked fresh. Back home I unwrapped to find a not too greasy, well cooked meal. After plating and adding my curry sauce I couldn’t wait to tuck in, the fish was cooked really well, a golden colour batter with tasty soft white fish and the chips were good too. I found that, despite smaller fish than my local shop, it was a good amount for me. I had a very enjoyable meal and I didn’t feel too full after; I do have the tendency to keep eating until everything has gone, sometimes way too much! Bankers has been around since 2001 and is not only a take away but has a large licensed restaurant area and use fish from sustainable sources. Although slightly higher prices than my usual chippy, it was well worth trying out and if I am nearby again I’ll go back. Stevio Bee, BN3
The Chip Basket
Ramsbottoms 58 Blatchington Road, Hove. BN3 3YH Price: medium huss & chips £5.50 (£3.90 takeaway) Open: Mon-Sat 11.30am-2.30pm, 4.30 -9.30pm Ramsbottoms looks like a standard fish and chip setup from outside. Once inside you find ten wooden tables and a small seating area. The staff were friendly, and the food took 15 minutes to arrive. They did forget an item but were quick to apologise and correct this once noticed. The fish (huss) was a good size and together with the chips completely covered the plate. The batter was fairly good but lacked the crispness you want. The same applied to their thick-cut chips. They were cooked but lacked the crunchy on the outside, fluffy on the inside appeal. We also tried the pea fritters. These were big, and green, very green. They didn’t taste of much. There were veggie options, although not all in stock. Heavily processed cheesy vegetable slices seemed to be the main option. All in all, it’s an okay place, with better than expected seating, but the fish and chips lacked anything to make Ramsbottoms stand out. John Brookes, BN3
131 Church Rd, Hove BN3 2AE Price: small cod £2.80; small chips £1.30 Open: 11am-10pm I thought I would give ‘The Chip Basket’ a try. I ordered small cod and chips, the price was fair and the service was quick. The chips had the perfect texture and were not too greasy, the cod was a good size and tasted very nice. The Chip Basket was very clean inside, the seating area was a good size, but the decor was fairly standard, as you would expect from a chippie. A small criticism would be that the cod was not very hot or freshly cooked and the staff could have been a little more welcoming. Overall though, a good value chippie so I will go back. Gary Law, BN3
issue 4 summer
The Daily Catch
28 Southover Street, Brighton BN2 9UD Price: under £10 per person Open: 5-10.30pm 7 days a week Our local chippy in Hanover is called ‘Sea Breeze’, it is mid hill on Southover Street near the Community Centre. The hill is steep but the reward is worth it. Sea Breeze is a take-away but has a small area for seating and eating, a TV is on and a supply of daily papers available. In addition to the typical chippy menu there are 5 veggie options available, some items were ready to serve immediately but all fish orders are cooked to order. I ordered large haddock and my partner went for rock salmon aka huss. Along with our fish order we plumbed for one large bag of chips, which was plenty for two, and a pot of mushy peas. Waiting time was 8 minutes. The batter was delicious, light and crispy and the fish meaty and cooked to perfection. No hidden surprises of massive batter with a small fry inside, the chips were golden in colour and scrumptious to eat. The portions were huge and we were stuffed, all for under £10. The shop is clean and the owner Rabi Alahmar is friendly and helpful. Fully recommended. Gabi Rayner, BN2
102 St. James St., Brighton BN2 1TP Price: £15 cod, haddock, plaice £3.30/4.10; chips £1.70/2.40; scampi £3.80; Senior citizen small cod and chips £4.50. Plus various value meals, burger chips and drink £3.99 Open:11.30am-11pm Mon-Sat; midday -11pm Sun I had to queue almost outdoors at Friday evening rush hour for this chippy. No awards for décor but the staff were quick to prep fried-to-order food whilst we people-watched from the window bench. Straightforward menu, the basics plus some value combinations and children’s meals. We restrain ourselves to small cod and chips, ¼ pounder, scampi, onion rings, mushy peas, coke and sprite. £15.50ish, plus ketchup, mayo and tartare at 5p per sachet. Happy with that. Basically, stick to the seafood. Cod was fine, with grease-lite batter. Chips were lush, smallish so quite crispy. Scampi were great, would double up on those next time. Onion rings ‘tasted like onions’ according to my trusty partner knowledgeable in these things. Burger rubbery like a cartoon acme hole in the ground, and peas bland - both unfinished. Overall: Nice! And a stone’s throw from the beach for a pleasant evening supper. Dougal Tyrie, BN1
In our next issue... breakfasts. Would you like to be on our review panel? email: email@example.com 33
Love food hate waste - it’s in good taste We’ve all done it before – thrown away food that could’ve been eaten. - Vera Zakharov The UK has a food waste habit. Food waste costs the average UK family £680 per year, and goes to the landfill, where it emits dangerous greenhouse gases. In Brighton & Hove, the problem hits us even harder with 35% of our domestic waste being food. Unlike other cities, we don’t yet have citywide food waste collection. As an eco-conscious city, we should look to lead the way in food waste reduction – one of the easiest steps towards more sustainable living. There are many things we can do to reduce food wastage at home and beyond - here are some suggestions: At-home habits: • Keep a shopping list in the kitchen - and take it with you! • Mind the “use by” dates, rather than “best before” or “sell by”. • Keep your fridge between 0° and 5°c - food will last longer. • A single portion of dry rice is only about 1/4 of a mug, or 4 heaped soup spoons. • Keep bananas separate from other fresh fruit. • Milk, butter, raw meat, sauces and more can be frozen for later use. • Wrap greens and herbs in a damp paper towel to extend freshness.
• Have a leftovers dinner party, and invite your family and friends. • For simple tips and loads of recipes, visit: www. lovefoodhatewaste.com Smart shopping and eco-eating out: • Be careful with 2-for-1 and similar deals - can you get through it all?
Zero-food waste socials: • Aim to minimise food waste at your next event, bbq or street party. • Put together a list of what everyone is bringing, and share it with everyone. • Make a little less than you think you need to. Parties and catered occasions often end up with lots of leftover food.
• Check if there are later “use-by” • Encourage people to bring tupperware and take away dates on the store shelf containers for any leftover to “buy” yourself more time. food. Or, supply some yourself, • Ask your butcher/fishmonger and make sure to keep the about taking home trimmings packaging that food comes and bones to use for soup in (like lids to dips) so it’s or to feed pets. easier to pack and save.
As an eco-conscious city, we should look to lead the way in food waste reduction • Encourage shops and eateries • If you or your neighbour have a compost bin, make sure to to support “nose-to-tail” eating set up a caddy at your event by offering less common (but to save compostable food tasty) cuts of meat, which get waste, such as tea bags and discarded due to low fruit peels. Label it and tell customer interest. your attendees about it, letting • Request a “doggie box” if you everyone know what can go can’t finish your meal, or find in and what can’t. out about smaller portions and substitutions. No need to have it if you can’t eat it. • Ask restaurants about dishes that minimise food waste, i.e. chips with skins left on.
The Brighton & Hove Food Partnership works on a city-wide level for a more sustainable food system. www.bhfood.org.uk.
edible loves... ‘al fresco’ entertaining s
Fantastic pink plastic picnicware £2.50 - £7.50 Velvet www.velvetstore.co.uk t: 01273 725992 s
plenty of room for yummy stuff £69.95 Bert’s Homestore www.bertshomestore.co.uk t: 01273 732770
Wine glass holders
issue 4 summer
make every day a celebration with this traditional bunting £25 Abode www.abodeliving.co.uk t: 01273 621116
stick ‘em into pebbles or grass to save spillage £4.99 Bert’s Homestore www.bertshomestore.co.uk t: 01273 732770
give your fish a good grilling! £7.99 Steamer Trading www.steamer.co.uk t: 01273 227705
everything for the perfect picnic, even the salt & pepper £59.99 England at Home www.englandathome.com t: 01273 738270
any excuse for a street party! £12.99 Bert’s Homestore www.bertshomestore.co.uk t: 01273 732770
go on... take a stab at your food £18.50 England at Home www.englandathome.com t: 01273 738270 s
carry it anywhere - très bien! £37 Abode www.abodeliving.co.uk t: 01273 621116
s Comfy picnic blanket
keep those pebbles at bay with this zip-up blanket £14.99 Steamer Trading www.steamer.co.uk t: 01273 227705
Boston cocktail shaker
shake it baby! £25 Steamer Trading www.steamer.co.uk t: 01273 227705
Pink ice lolly moulds
these moulds are just fab! £3.75 Velvet www.velvetstore.co.uk t: 01273 725992
Cocktail stick holder
if Jedward did kitchenware... £15.99 Steamer Trading www.steamer.co.uk t: 01273 227705
Corona bottle tumblers £14.95 pair olive & pip dish £19.95 both from ecol logic cool www.ecologiccool.com t: 01273 606077
catch one while you can £18.99 England at Home www.englandathome.com t: 01273 738270
Handy tips for your BBQ on the beach One of the best things about living in our city is being able to BBQ on the beach – one of the few places in the UK where it’s allowed. • Douse any hot stones with What can I BBQ with? water when you leave. Out of respect for your beach and wildlife, we suggest using • Leave no trace! the bucket BBQs that have feet It’s extremely selfish to to raise them off the ground. leave litter. So don’t do it. You can also use disposables There’s plenty of places you Where can I BBQ? can dispose of your litter Any beach within the Brighton but do your best to raise them. as you leave the beach, so and Hove boundary EXCEPT in Anything else? there’s no excuse. Yes! Please consider the between the two piers,or the beaches between Medina Villas following: • Not everyone has the same and Hove Street. taste in music, by all means, • Extinguish your BBQ before So with this comes a responsibility to BBQ safely. The council has some great information on their website, but we also have some tips.
play a few chilled tunes but leaving & dispose of safely. When can I BBQ? don’t impose it on others at Look out for the special bins. Any time after 6pm. If you BBQ loud volumes. any time before this you will • Keep your group to less be asked to extinguish your For further information than 20. BBQ and may have to dispose contact the Seafront Office on • Do not bring glass on to of anything that was in the 01273 292716. the beaches. process of cooking.
HOVE’S TRADITIONAL FAMILY BUTCHER & POULTERER
issue 4 summer seckers_half_page_edible_may_11.indd
er e !
7 Richardson Rd, Hove, East Sussex, BN3 5RB
T I ME
• We make 25 varieties of sausage, including gluten free varieties. We also make gluten free burgers. • We stock top-quality Scotch beef, local lamb and free-range pork. • We also have a range of cooked meats, cheeses and eggs. • We are all about quality of product and quality of service. • We have friendly, knowledgeable staff - ask them how to cook our meat if you don’t know. • We cut our meat to your requirements, not to the supermarkets’.
01273 731502 21/05/2011 10:53
This season, I have mostly been eating… Chowder.
- Kerrith Etkin-Bell Good chowder trips the border between the gastronomic excess of a gussied up marinière, and the soothing milkiness of nursery mush. On the one side you have a silky soft broth thickened with cream and studded with bits of seafood, on the other you’ve chopped bacon and cubes of potato which relax into mash on your tongue. Eating chowder is like sitting up straight with your elbows off the table linen whilst at the same time curled up in your slippers on the sofa watching TV. What’s not to like? My chowder fest kicked off in Ireland. Here it’s made with mussels and prawns with dibbles of baby squid to give your teeth something to work on, and served alongside a hunk of freshly made soda bread. It always gladdens my heart when I find it on a menu, and in Ireland I found it on every menu for four days. Complaining? Hell no! I ate it. For every meal. I left with a heavy heart (and stomach).
posh nosh made with love EllesBelles award winning gourmet sausages are made using only natural casings, pure ingredients and the best combination of meat cuts. Made by head chef, Elle Ledden and her team at The Sussex Yeoman pub in Brighton, she only uses animals that have enjoyed their freedom. EllesBelles gourmet sausages are building a loyal fan base and are now being sold around Brighton and London perfect for any summer BBQ. Gluten and non gluten free sausages are available. For more information please contact firstname.lastname@example.org The Sussex Yeoman pub, 7 Guildford Road, Brighton BN1 3LU
So imagine my joy when rounding the bend at Hove lagoon I noticed that those clever people behind Riddle & Finns have opened a chowder booth on the docks next door to Fish. With the aim of creating the Fisherman’s Wharf of West Hove, they’re serving the reigning champion of chowders, clam. And better then that they’re serving it Wharf-style, in a hollowed roll that you can scoff after you’ve eaten the soup. For those who fancy making their own sourcing clams used to be an issue. However Brighton & Newhaven Fish Sales now stock two sorts; Shore-clams for those who don’t mind waiting for them to spit their sand, and surf-clams for the impatient. So, whether you’re dressed in pyjamas or heels, sup on some chowder and if you want the full effect, maybe a pint of Guinness. 39
a big fat myth: are all fats bad? Fish are our friends. They provide healthy fats that help to keep us disease and pain free, sharp of mind, and fair of skin! - Sarah Cheeseman All the media coverage about sustainable fishing lately might have got you thinking about the kind of fish you buy and eat. But which fish have the most heath benefits?
The truth is, we need to focus much more on eating omega 3 than omega 6. Omega 6 is found in sunflower oil, and is generally high in the British diet, as many products found on the supermarket shelves contain it. Our diet should contain 2:1 omega 3 to omega 6, but the average British diet actually has 1:6 omega 3 to 6.
The good news is that we can give our poor old depleted stocks of white fish such as cod and haddock a rest, as trying different kinds of fish will benefit our health and the environment. Iâ€™m talking about oily fish, and Who should be concerned the major nutrient that they about this? supply to us; essential fatty acids, Anyone with any kind or omega 3 and 6 fats. of inflammatory disease or Omega 3 and 6 are vital condition (most diseases have to brain structure, mental inflammation at their core) such processing, mood, intelligence, as arthritis, eczema, hayfever, energy production, cell atherosclerosis, chronic pain, membrane health, weight period pain, high cholesterol, management, cardiovascular etc will want to regulate their health and gut integrity, and intake of omega 6, and step up much more. the omega 3. This is because omega 3 fats convert down into the super-duper gold star fats â€“ EPA and DHA. They make anti-inflammatory chemical messengers called prostaglandins.
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Omega 6 fats can also make anti inflammatory prostaglandins, but a few dietary hiccups such as too much saturated fat or too much sugar can cause the conversion process to shoot off in another direction, causing the production of proinflammatory prostaglandins instead; potentially leading to increased pain, inflammation and disease symptoms. When one eats foods containing omega 3 fats such as flaxseeds, soybeans, walnuts and pumpkin seeds, the body must make a series of conversions to get to the afore-mentioned super-duper EPA and DHA fats, the end goal. To do this, your body has to employ a range of nutrients and enzymes. Your nutrient status and general state of health will affect how well your body does this, and how much EPA and DHA you end up with. The good news is, by eating oily fish, you short cut all of this hard work and get straight to the good stuff, as oily fish contains the EPA and DHA you need!
food for thought
“We can give our poor old depleted stocks of cod and haddock a rest, as trying different kinds of fish will benefit our health and the environment”
So what is oily fish? As I mentioned before, sticking to your cod and haddock isn’t going to get you very far in terms of omega 3 status, containing just 0.3 grams of omega 3 per 100g of cooked fish. The best fish is smoked mackerel, with a whopping 6.6g per 100g. Then we have salmon (fresh), sardines, fresh mackerel, tinned salmon, tinned pilchards and herring. Fresh tuna contains omega 3, but the tinned variety is negligible. You should aim to eat at least three portions of oily fish per week, but getting omega 3 into your diet could be easier and cheaper than you first thought. Tinned sardines on toast or a smoked mackerel salad is an easy and cheap lunch. And if you needed any more convincing, a study showed that people who ate oily fish just once per week were four times less likely to develop Alzheimers disease!
Some people may need to consider supplementation. If you have any of the following symptoms; Dry skin, dandruff, excessive sweating, poor vision, fragile capillaries, phrynoderma (goose bump type skin on upper arms, thighs and buttocks) or difficulty concentrating, you could be deficient. When choosing a fish oil supplement, look for one containing high levels of DHA and EPA (around 700mg is good). Fish body oil is better than cod liver oil, as it contains higher levels of these fats. Most fish oils should be kept in the fridge, as superunsaturated fats are not stable at room temperature and can ‘go off’ if exposed to direct light or high temperature. Vegetarians can supplement flaxseed oil, but the bad news for our vege friends is that flaxseed is poorly converted to EPA and DHA. One study showed that in white Caucasians, just 0.75% was converted on average. A way to help your body with this process
is to eat a nutrient rich diet with lots of fruit and veg and wholegrains, avoid refined sugar, saturated fats and absolutely avoid trans fats. Trans fats play havoc with essential fatty acid conversion, and with our cell health in general. They are fats that have been chemically altered in order to give food products such as biscuits and cakes an increased shelf life. This last piece of advice applies to everyone, not just vegetarians. So make fish a part of your regular diet, it’s easier than you think and a great way to top up on protein, B vitamins, Iodine, zinc and vitamin D.
Sarah runs Pure Nutrition in central Brighton and you can contact her on 07772 719213 or enquiries@pure-nutrition. net. Visit her website www.pure-nutrition.net.
Shoreham Farmers Market - Rob Silverstone - “A taste of the Downs” Until recently, decent local produce barely existed in this country, but now every second Saturday of the month, Shoreham presides over a feast of food and drink. High Weald sheep cheese, Flower Marie and Nut Knowle goat cheese rolled in ash. Chutneys, relishes, honey and pies, wine and cider, fish from Rye. Every cut of game and meat, the entire pig including hock and feet. Prize tomatoes smelling sharp and sweet. Scrumptious Sussex apples. The surprising thing is how quickly your behaviour changes in response to the market. Content to queue with anticipation for the 42
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current crop of vegetables. Smelling this and tasting that, exchanging smiles and conversation. All as if supermarkets belonged to some alien past where we lost control of our lives. Across the pedestrian bridge, several houseboats open their doors to displays of art. These are hippy places in the best sense of the word. No spineless souls, slumped smelling of cats, incapable of making a roll up between one solstice and the next. But craftsmen, designers of fantasy beach huts. Psychedelic shapes on sepia mud flats. Back in the centre of town, art is also on display at Rope
Tackle, a new complex built on the site of a derelict wharf. A mosaic of wood and brick with pretty blue balconies, and four metal trees stretching up in static dance around a bold, glass staircase. On the quayside, water churns darkly at the confluence of river and sea, trains rattle across the estuary, and swans bob about, humourless and tight-beaked. Sniffing contemptuously at the hippies on the houseboats. Extract from forthcoming second edition of ‘A Mule in Brighton - A Taste of The Downs’ by Rob Silverstone. On sale at Coriander restaurant & deli, and Wild Cherry deli, as well as bookshops.
Jamie Oliver’s Recipease Come in and try the new delicious additions to our eat-in breakfast, brunch and lunch menus... The warmer weather has arrived, and so have some fabulous new additions to our eat-in breakfast and lunch menus in Brighton. And if that’s not enough to tempt you, we’ve also got a brand new brunch menu for Sundays too. Grab a friend this weekend and tuck into: Breakfast Fresh fruit salad platter with mint and basil sugar (serves 2) Juicy fruit served with a little sweet ricotta cheese & a sprinkling of fresh mint and basil sugar. Sunday brunch The Works: Recipease fantastic fry-up A wedge of warm potato tortilla served with a fried egg, an outdoor reared pork and leek sausage, slices of crisp pancetta, a slice of English chorizo sausage, a sweet oven-roasted tomato, homemade baked beans, toasted London bloomer bread and fresh flat-leaf parsley.
Or lunch The ultimate beef burger with pickles Best British burger flavoured with good-old English mustard and fresh flat-lead parsley piled into a soft bun with baby gem lettuce, free- range egg mayonnaise and slow-roasted thyme-caramelised onions. No bookings are required and kids are welcome. 72 – 73 Western Road, Brighton BN1 2HA www.recipease.com
Learn to cook like Jamie Oliver!
Whether you’re a total beginner, a seasoned cook or just looking to have a laugh we’ve got cooking lessons for everyone to enjoy. Current favourites include Unbeatable Filled pasta, Knife skills, Fragrant Thai green curry and American-style chilli. Classes start from just £25 per person. 72 - 73 Western Road, Brighton, BN1 2HA For full list of classes, visit www.recipease.com 43
Summer gardening tips: The days are getting longer and winter is a distant memory. Let’s hope for a summer with hot days and gentle, late night rains to give us perfect growing conditions!
viva verde stylish & creative floristr y
There’s lot of things to sow outside now. Try runner beans, broccoli, cabbages, kale, peas cauliflowers, kohl rabi, scorzonera and carrots as well as pumpkins, courgettes, sweet corn, beans and cucumbers. Stagger sowings of vegetables such as mange tout, beans, carrots, kohlrabi, beetroot, lettuces and radishes. Sowing a little of each crop every few weeks will spread your supply of fresh vegetables over the summer and avoids having a glut of vegetables at one particular time. As the weather heats up so does the rush to the hose pipe. Save yourself time and effort by conserving water. Cover the surface of the soil with thick landscape fabric (Mypex) or cardboard to keep moisture in. Plant half a plastic bottle or flowerpot next to the plant so water goes directly to the roots and doesn’t evaporate on the surface. Finish planting out winter brassicas such as broccoli and cabbage in July. Oriental leaves, chard, swede, kales and winter radishes can all be sown this month to keep you going through the autumn and winter. Harvest is all about growing your own and eating local food. From window boxes to community allotments, there are opportunities for everyone to join in. Harvest has brought together lots of different organisations interested in food who will help you learn to grow your own, make use of surplus produce and eat more tasty local food. To find out more visit www.harvest-bh.org.uk Harvest is a non-profit organisation.
flowers, plants, herbs & gif ts 4 Richardson Road • Hove • East Sussex BN3 5RB tel/fax: 01273 733321 e: email@example.com
Dates for your diary 2-3 July Garden Gadabout in aid of Sussex Beacon, various open gardens throughout the city. www.gardengadabout.org.uk 6 July Wild fermenting course 7-9pm, Whitehawk Inn £10 13 July Seed saving course 7-9pm, Whitehawk Community Food Project £10 27 Aug Preston Park Festival run by the Friends of the park. Free. 12-5pm 5 Sept The winter salad box 6.30-8.30pm, Phoenix Community Centre £10 17 Sept Harvest’s Local Food Picnic and Food Festival ‘Sussex cheese bowling’ games. Free. Preston Park 22 Sept Seasonal preserves, pickles & chutneys course 6-9pm City College, £25
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working lunch Each issue, an area of Brighton is in the spotlight and we talk about our favourite three. This issue edible visits Seven Dials. Le Gourmet 159 Dyke Road BN3 1TJ 01273 778 437 www.delidevil.co.uk Here at edible we have a bit of a weakness for delis, and Le Gourmet is a particularly good one. A family run business since 1991, this deli offers great take-out food such as homemade salads and sandwiches, baguettes and wraps filled with something a little different to the norm. There’s also a good selection of pastries, pies and homemade cakes. You’ll also be tempted by the excellent range of local produce available including cheeses, jams and chutneys.
Moorish 84 Dyke Road BN1 3JD 01273 777 765 This down-to-earth deli sells good, honest African food at good prices. Expect to see hearty curries and tagines on the menu, but should you fancy something a little lighter, you can choose from a good range of salads and mezzes. Moorish cater well for people with food intolerances and allergies, with a good amount of food available being wheat, gluten, dairy or nut free. There’s also some outside seating for sunny days and it doesn’t get too busy.
Sam’s 1 Buckingham PlaceBN1 3TD 01273 885555 www.sevendialsrestaurant.co.uk
Sam’s is an airy, lavish looking place that does a great lunch deal at one course for £10, two for £12 or three for £14. The menu changes daily to accommodate what’s in season and can be locally sourced. They really know how to cook at Sam’s; the dishes are traditional yet well flavoured and have a whole lot of flair. Sam’s also welcomes children for their lunch menu, which is good news for work at home mums in the area. There is a terrace and free wi-fi for those hazy sunny days.
If you have a lunctime foodie favourite that you’d like to recommend email us at: firstname.lastname@example.org 45
last orders Q & A He’s a writer, designer, food lover, loves cheap sweeties like flying saucers, and drinks bitter in the winter and lager in the summer. He plays board games obsessively, especially Catan and Scrabble, and his second novel Three Kinds of Lies is due out in 2012. He’s creative director of Latest magazine, and food and drink critic for Latest 7. Andrew Kay also finds time to answer a few questions for edible. How does Brighton compare to London with regards to eating out? It’s simply a matter of scale, bigger place – more places to eat, and of course as we’re smaller it’s easier, you can have a drink and walk home. What made you want to write about food? I read a food column and it was clear to me that the person writing didn’t seem to either love food or have any food knowledge. I just thought I could do better. I worked on lots of food books when I worked as an art director in London and always enjoyed that and I grew up surrounded by good food. What’s your ideal meal at home? Sunday lunch, breakfast, all the simple things that restaurants never do. Conversely I don’t really want to eat food in restaurants that I can do better myself at home.
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What’s your favourite food? So many, but I do love really good wonton soup, devilled kidneys and gooseberries. I have always loved offal and cheap cuts of meat. I also like food that is honest and not messed with. I hate the obsession with garlic and black pepper and olive oil that has permeated the British menu. I like them all, just not in everything.
What 3 ingredients are always in your household? It will be easier to list the ones that are not, I keep a very extensive larder. I never have Oxo cubes, pineapple or tinned rice pudding. Who would you most like to cook for - dead or alive?
I have a spatula that I have owned for as long as I can remember and I love my Gelatochef ice-cream maker.
I would like to cook for my grandfather who died when I was 14. He was a butcher and he did all the cooking when I was young. I used to help him in the kitchen on Sundays, cooking huge roast of meat which we would eat at before they went off to the shop to be sold cold. He loved food.
What’s an Andrew Kay speciality dish to cook?
Do you have any pet hates when eating out?
I make really naughty bread and butter pudding and my Texan style chilli is pretty good. A Texan architect friend taught me how to make it years ago and it always works, although the recipe makes enough for about twenty people.
I hate menu jargon, I hate the misuse of words that are the names of dishes and not a method of cooking. I once sent back something that was described as a summer ratatouille. It was made with cauliflower and peas and carrots, not ratatouille in any sense.
What is your favourite/ weirdest kitchen gadget?
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The FREE foodie mag for Brighton and Hove. A great magazine celebrating all that Brighton and Hove has to offer, both eating and drinking ou...
Published on Jun 19, 2011
The FREE foodie mag for Brighton and Hove. A great magazine celebrating all that Brighton and Hove has to offer, both eating and drinking ou...