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Our Food, Our Stories, Season by Season

YOUR GUIDE TO ROASTING Saltwater Shrimp on the Prairie THE BOOK OF PIE

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THE DIET STARTS TOMORROW.

American Painting, Culture, and Cuisine Through January 27 Lead Corporate Sponsor

Major support is provided by the Terra Foundation for American Art and an anonymous donor. Additional funding is provided by Mr. and Mrs. Morris S. Weeden and the Suzanne and Wesley M. Dixon Exhibition Fund. Annual support is provided by the Exhibitions Trust: Goldman Sachs, Kenneth and Anne Griffin, Thomas and Margot Pritzker, the Earl and Brenda Shapiro Foundation, the Trott Family Foundation, and the Woman’s Board of the Art Institute of Chicago. Wayne Thiebaud. Salad, Sandwiches, and Dessert (detail), 1960. Lent by the Sheldon Museum of Art, University of Nebraska-Lincoln, NAA-Thomas C. Woods Memorial. © Wayne Thiebaud/Licensed by VAGA, New York, NY.


Winter 2013â&#x20AC;&#x201C;2014

CONTENTS Seasonal Recipes 05 All-Butter Pie Dough 08 Curry Butternut Leek Soup 09 Fast No-Knead Bread 14 Roast Pork Shoulder with Rosemary and Sage 17 Brussels Sprouts with Roasted Chestnuts 32 Gambas al Ajillo (Garlic Shrimp Tapa) 40 Kale Chips Wine Pairings Courtesy of Nan Stehno, CSW, Wirtz Beverage Illinois

Drink Recipes 43 Apple Cider Brandy Punch 44 Uncle Angeloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eggnog

02 FOOD FOR THOUGHT Editorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Welcome

04 NOTABLE EDIBLES Stories by Becky Liscum Photographs by Amanda Areias Hoosier Mama Book of Pie Winemaking in the City Soupâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s On Fast No-Knead Bread The Village Potter

12 COOKING WITH THE SEASONS A Roast to Remember Recipe by Dana Benigno

16 LOCAL AND IN SEASON Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in Season Now with Seasonal Recipe

18 ON OUR BOOKSHELF

20 INCREDIBLY EDIBLE Croissants to Crave at Beurrage Bakery Story by Anne Spiselman Photographs by Amanda Areias

26 COFFEE BREAK With James Gray, General Manager of Glazed and Infused Interview by Ann Flood Photographs by Kaitlyn McQuaid

30 FROM THE GOOD EARTH Salt Water Shrimp on the Prairie Story by Terra Brockman

38 KIDS IN THE KITCHEN Winter Greens Make Cool Chips Story by Portia Belloc Lowndes Photographs by Roark Johnson

42 LIQUID ASSETS A Cup of Cheer

46 EDIBLE SOURCE GUIDE with your Dine and Drink Local Listing 48 EDIBLE INK Cork Screws Original Illustration by Bambi Edlund

34 THE LAKE EFFECT Pleasant House Bakery: A Royal Treat Story by Amelia Levin Photographs by Grant Kessler

Our Food, Our Stories, Season by Season

18 WINTER FARMERS MARKETS Read our digital edition online anytime with exclusive video content at ediblechicago.com. Or download our mobile apps.

Food and Art PRESERVING THE BOUNTY GARDEN PARTY ON THE GRILL DRINK YOUR VEGETABLES

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GET THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS. Photo Š clearimages/shutterstock.com

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Food for Thought

A FEW WORDS FROM edible CHICAGO

PUBLISHER/CO-EDITORS

It seems to be a universal truth: when entertaining at home, folks will gather in the kitchen. Perhaps it is the sensory experience, the aroma of good food simmering on the stove or baking in the oven, which draws us together in the heart of the home. In the cold of winter, friends and family seek the good food and warmth of the kitchen. So invite them in and share one of the many recipes we have included in this issue beginning with our Notable Edibles section. Bake some homemade bread, put a pot of soup on the stove to simmer using a recipe crafted especially for Edible Chicago by Chef Karl Bader, or create a perfect roast in the oven with tips from Cooking With the Seasons. Do it all while your kitchen is filled with guests.

Sweet Pea Media, LLC Ann Flood + Becky Liscum

COPY EDITORS Debra Criche Mell + Gail Grasso

PROOF READER Portia Belloc Lowndes

ART DIRECTOR Marianna Delinck Manley

COVER PHOTO

The other place people tend to gather at a party is around the punch bowl. In Liquid Assets discover a recipe for a fun apple cider brandy punch, which can be made with cider from one of our local winter farmers markets. Add a splash of small batch distilled liquor for a spirited cup of cheer. If you need a break from entertaining, check out The Lake Eff ect column as we head to Chicago’s Bridgeport neighborhood and the Pleasant House Bakery where Art and Chelsea Jackson serve up a royal treat—savory pies, a perfect winter warmer. For something exotic, yet homegrown, read how one Central Illinois farm family is raising saltwater shrimp, smack dab in the middle of the prairie. Lastly, we want to acknowledge the passing this November of two culinary greats whose influence on the Chicago food scene broadened our world with their talent and dedication to the perfect fine dining experience. The first “Celebrity Chef” to come from the Chicago area was Jean Banchet, the creator of Le Francais in Wheeling, Illinois. The other was the legendary chef, Charlie Trotter, who put Chicago on the international culinary map when he elevated ingredients and embraced local farmers long before it became a movement. We honor their contributions and the paths they blazed for the next generation of talented chefs, many of whom we profile in the pages of this magazine every season.

The Perfect Gift for Your Favorite Foodie!

PHOTOGRAPHERS Amanda Areias + Roark Johnson Grant Kessler + Kaitlyn McQuaid

ADVERTISING INQUIRIES Ann Flood 708.386.6781 or ann@ediblechicago.com

ADVERTISING CONSULTANTS Jeannie Boutelle: jeannie@ediblechicago.com Donna Schauer: donna@ediblechicago.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS ediblechicago.com

CONTACT US

Edible Chicago® is published seasonally—four times per year by Sweet Pea Media LLC/dba Edible Chicago. We are an advertiser and subscriber supported publication, locally and independently owned and operated and a member of Edible Communities, Inc. Distribution is throughout Chicagoland and by subscription for $28.00 per year. © 2013-2014 All Rights Reserved.

Subscribe to Edible Chicago and never miss a single issue with pristine copies delivered right to your door! Subscribe for yourself, or as a thoughtful gift for someone you love. We’ll send out a hand written gift card with your message. It’s a gift that will last all year. Subscribe online at: ediblechicago.com, or mail us a check for $28.00 payable to: Edible Chicago, 159 N. Marion St., #306, Oak Pak, IL 60301. Edible Chicago is entirely supported by our advertising partners and subscribers. With your paid subscription, you allow us to tell the stories of our local farmers, chefs, purveyors and food artisans that help sustain a vital, healthier food system throughout Chicagoland.

edible chicago | Winter 2013-2014

CONTRIBUTORS Dana Benigno + Terra Brockman + Bambi Edlund Ann Flood + Amelia Levin + Becky Liscum Portia Belloc Lowndes + Anne Spiselman

Edible Chicago 159 N. Marion St., #306, Oak Park, IL 60301 708.386.6781 Fax: 708.221.6756 ediblechicago@gmail.com

Read on…

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Grant Kessler

Photos © Bernd Schmidt/shutterstock.com

Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and let us know.


Everything In Balance. Drink Responsibly. © 2013 BONTERRA ORGANIC VINEYARDS, HOPLAND, CA.


Notable Edibles Stories by Becky Liscum & Photographs by Amanda Areias

Paula Haney

THE BOOK OF PIE “Keep your fork—there’s pie!” There’s nothing like the anticipation of that first fork-full of homemade pie. For those who didn’t grow up with the tantalizing aroma of a fresh baked pie coming out of the oven, you can make up for lost time by trying any of the 120 “Deluxe Recipes” in Paula Haney’s The Hoosier Mama Book of Pie (Midway Books, $29.95). The Indiana native staked her claim to fame when she opened her cozy, homey pie shop in Chicago’s Ukrainian Village in 2009. Haney, with fellow baker Allison Scott, received national acclaim when Hoosier Mama Pie was listed as one of the “Top Ten Best Places for Pie” by Bon Appétit. The cookbook has a retro feel with its oldfashioned, folksy approach to baking pies. 4

edible chicago | Winter 2013-2014

It even includes historical tidbits about obscure pie fillings that incorporated seasonal ingredients our grandmothers and great-grandmothers probably used during lean, winter months. One section, “Desperation Pies” covers how to make a delicious pie even when the fruit cellar or pantry is bare. Have you ever dreamed of making a Vinegar Chess Pie? We’re betting the answer is ‘no’ but you may be surprised at the outcome. “We love this pie because it tastes so good, yet sounds so horrible,” Haney writes.

Interesting winter recipes include a Pear, Apple and Cranberry Pie with Walnut Crumble and a classic Mincemeat.

Hoosier Mama Pie purchases what is available in season from local farmers and food artisans. “Pie was invented as a (delicious) way to use up the ingredients on hand each season, so it seemed natural to run the shop the same way,” says Haney.

Hoosier Mama Pie, 1618½ W. Chicago Ave., Chicago, IL 312-243-4846. Also made in-house at Dollop Café in Evanston, 749 Chicago Ave. Pies are available by pre-order as well. For more information: hoosiermamapie.com

Pie-making, says Haney, has been taken for granted. “We have found that nearly everyone still loves a good piece of pie, but fewer and fewer people feel confident making their own.” Haney hopes her book will change that by providing readers with all the tools they need to make the perfect pie, so they can hear “Keep your fork— there’s pie!” at their own dinner table.


All-Butter Pie Dough Adapted from The Hoosier Mama Book of Pie by Paula Haney Prep time: 15 minutes | Chill: 40 minutes | Makes 1 double-crust pie or 2 single-crust pies. 1¾ sticks unsalted butter

½ cup cold water

2¼ teaspoons Kosher salt

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

2¼ cups flour

½ tablespoon granulated sugar

1. Cut the butter into ½-inch cubes. Freeze 5 tablespoons for 20 minutes or overnight; chill the remaining butter in the refrigerator until ready to use. 2. Stir the red wine vinegar into the cold water; set aside. 3. Combine the flour, salt and sugar in a food processor; pulse 5 or 6 times to combine. Add the chilled butter; mix until the mixture resembles coarse meal, 25-30 seconds. Add the frozen butter; pulse 15 to 20 times, until the butter is in pea-size pieces. 4. Add 6 tablespoons of the vinegar water; pulse 6 times. The dough should start to look crumbly. Test the dough by squeezing a small amount in the palm of your hand. If it easily holds together, it is done. If not, add ½ tablespoon of the vinegar water; pulse 3 more times. Repeat until the dough holds together. 5. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface; knead together until smooth; dough should never come together in the food processor. Divide the dough into 2 equal parts; roll each into a ball. Flatten the balls slightly; wrap separately in plastic wrap. Let the dough rest in the refrigerator until ready to use, at least 20 minutes but preferably overnight.

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Notable Edible

Robert Kowal

WINEMAKING IN THE CITY City Winery in Chicago, a wine, food and music venue is far from the quintessential winery nestled in a picturesque rolling hillside. It is located smack dab in the middle of the urban jungle in the Fulton Market neighborhood. What its setting lacks in imagery however, it makes up for in accessibility and its products’ drinkability, which can be served right from your own custom created cask or personally labeled bottles. At City Winery, for a cost, you get to lend a hand creating a barrel of your own personal vintage. First you select the kind of grapes you want to use. You can even choose from several regional varieties. “We did receive Midwest crop this season, around two tons of Michigan Riesling yielding 300 gallons of juice,” according 6

edible chicago | Winter 2013-2014

to Chief Winemaker, Robert Kowal. Once the grapes are selected, they are inspected, de-stemmed, sorted and crushed. Barrel owners are encouraged to take part in the crushing process. The grapes are fermented and aged on-site. The process takes from six months to two years, depending on the varietal and the desired flavor profile of the consumer. City Winery’s wines can also be blended to achieve the perfect taste, tapping into Kowal’s expertise. Kowal has more than a decade of experience, a marked detour from his earlier career as a television producer. While working on a PBS cooking show, he was introduced to a sommelier, and quickly developed a passion for making

a great American wine. He spent years learning the craft, most recently from City Winery New York’s David Lecomte. City Winery is able to lower the carbon footprint by using Michigan grapes. Kowal also repurposes the residual yeast from the fermentation and aging process by turning it into an ingredient Executive Chef Andres Barrera uses in their restaurant’s pizza dough. City Winery offers different levels of ownership for “barrel members” based on full (252 bottles), half (120 bottles) or a barrel share (36 bottles). City Winery 1200 W. Randolph St. Chicago, IL 312-733-9463; www.citywinery.com/chicago


A Grape Discovery in Michigan In the words of City Winery Chief Winemaker, Robert Kowal: I visited a number of wineries and vineyards this (past) summer looking for grapes and found the most interesting to come from the Traverse City area and the peninsula up north. While the Michigan industry is young, a few folks have figured out that it’s white grape country and they are working to find the best sites and adapt their viticulture to local conditions with varieties such as Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Gruner Vetliner, etc. The best producers are making aromatic white wines to rival the finest of the West Coast and the Finger Lakes region of New York. We’re planning to make an off-dry style with our juice given the ripeness and acid structure, something akin to a German Kabinett—high acid, low alcohol, slightly sweet. 

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Notable Edible

SOUP’S ON… Sunday is a cozy-up-in-the-kitchen kind of day, when a pot of soup cooking on a back burner yields a batch of comfort in a kettle. On Sundays Karl Bader has every burner on the stove fired up with a pot of soup bubbling away as he creates as many as 350 servings of soup every week for his customers. Bader is the chef behind Karl’s Craft Soups. Working in a commercial shared kitchen in Oak Park, he is able to turn seasonal, fresh market ingredients into warm, rich flavors like his Chicken and Black Bean Chili, Smoky Pumpkin Bisque, Tuscan White Bean Soup to name just a few. Each week he prepares different soups, which he then sells at Chicago farmers markets and a handful of specialty food stores. “People would come back to me week after week asking me what I was going to do next,” Bader says. He is also a familiar face at several pop-up events in the city, including The Nosh at the Logan Square winter farmers market, where he offers samples and sells his soups. “People have said they don’t like certain vegetables, but once they taste the soup, all of a sudden they like a new flavor.” He sells soup all year but finds there is a difference between seasons. “In winter months, soup is often the star of the meal, not just an appetizer,” Bader says. In the summer he says people are interested in lighter, often fruit-based soups. Currently he delivers to customers in Oak Park, River Forest, Berwyn and Riverside. Like many “small batch” food entrepreneurs, Bader has plans to expand his Chicago deliveries and add more retail outlets. If you live in Oak Park, Karl’s Craft Soup Club offers custom-made soups which he delivers each week with a minimum order of 20 bowls. It is also available for delivery through Artizone.com. What a perfect way to get neighbors together, sharing a bowl of homemade soup, created on Bader’s stove and brought to yours. For retail, market and delivery information: Karlscraftsoup.com Editor’s note: Chef Karl Bader created this recipe especially for Edible Chicago. The soup will be available for a limited time and then only by special order.

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edible chicago | Winter 2013-2014

Curry Butternut Leek Soup Adapted from Karl’s Craft Soups Makes 10-12 Servings 6 pounds of Butternut squash (about 2-3 medium squash), peeled, seeded and cut into 1-inch pieces

Canola oil Salt, pepper and sugar to taste 1 tablespoon curry powder

1 medium sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 4 large leeks, cut into 1-inch pieces

8 cups vegetable broth (preferably homemade, but store-bought, organic, low sodium will work) 1 cup heavy whipping cream

3 medium carrots, cut into ½-inch pieces 1. Pre-heat oven to 450°. 2. Toss squash and sweet potato in a bowl with 1 tablespoon of canola oil. Dust lightly with salt and sugar till coated. Place on a baking sheet and roast until caramelized. Approximately 20 minutes. 3. Sauté leeks and carrots with 2 teaspoons of canola oil in a soup pot on low heat until well wilted and translucent. Approximately 10 minutes. Add curry powder and toast for 45 seconds. 4. Add vegetable broth and previously roasted vegetables. Bring to a gentle boil for 15 minutes. Let cool. Add cream. 5. In a blender, puree until smooth and velvety. If it is too thick, add vegetable stock to thin to preferred consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Reheat to desired temperature. Enjoy!

Wine Pairing Markus Molitor Haus Klosterberg Riesling Qba ‘11  $17.99 Taste this wine and other delicious wines for your holiday table on December 20 from 4:30-6:30PM at Artisanal Wilmette, 414 Linden Ave, Wilmette. Photos: Left © Bernd Schmidt/shutterstock.com Top © Lesya Dolyuk/shutterstock.com Bottom © Alan Kadr/shutterstock.com


Fast No-Knead Bread Yields 1 Loaf | Adapted from Mark Bittman’s recipe on The Blog That Ate Manhattan 1 packet (½ ounce) instant dry yeast Pinch of sugar 3 cups all purpose unbleached flour 1 ½ teaspoons salt 2 tablespoons olive oil* plus more for the work surface

up. Unless the dough is crawling up the sides of the pan (if it is, shake the pan once or twice to drop it in) don’t worry if it falls a bit off center in the pot. It will straighten out as it bakes. 6. Cover with lid and bake 30 minutes, then remove lid and bake another 15 to 30 minutes, until loaf is beautifully browned. Cool on a rack.

1.

Dissolve the yeast in ¼ cup warm water. Add a pinch of sugar. Once the yeast starts to foam, it is ready to use.

2. Combine flour and salt in a large bowl. Add dissolved yeast, 2 tablespoons olive oil and 1¼ cups water and stir until blended; dough will be shaggy. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let rest about 4 hours at about 70°. 3. Pull dough out of bowl—it will be shaggy, but will come away in one piece if you work gently enough. Plop it onto a lightly oiled work surface, preferably a large wooden cutting board and fold it over on itself once or twice. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest 30 minutes more. 4. While the dough is resting, put a 6-8 quart heavy covered pot in the oven and heat to 450°. 5. When the dough has rested for 30 minutes, carefully remove the now very hot pot from oven. Slide your

*Using olive oil strengthens the bubbles in the rise and increases the shelf life. It also gives the bread a chewy texture much like sourdough bread.

Editor’s Note: Difference between active dry yeast & instant yeast Instant yeast is a little more potent than active dry yeast and can be mixed in with dry ingredients directly. It can be easier to work with. Active dry yeast works just as well as instant yeast, but requires being activated in a little bit of warm water before being added to the rest of the ingredients. Without being able to properly activate it will result in the loaf not rising adequately.

hand under the dough and drop it into pot, seam side

Photo © Sea Wave/Shutterstock.com

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Notable Edible

Pottery by Mary Dye DUTCH OVEN (Above): Wheel thrown, hand-built terra cotta, unglazed. SOUP TUREEN AND BOWLS (Left): Wheel thrown stoneware with celadon and natural ash glazes.

THE MODERN VILLAGE POTTER Editor’s Note: Mary Dye is the creator of the clay pots used in this photography. She specializes in making cooking vessels just as a village potter did in ancient times.

“I love doing something every day that has been done by people for at least 30,000 years,” says Chicago area potter Mary Dye. “Except for about the last 200 years, people have cooked, stored, preserved, washed and planted in clay vessels made by local artisans with regionally sourced clay.” 10

edible chicago | Winter 2013-2014

Northern Illinois is rich with clay. Much to the bane of the gardener, it is wonderfully accessible to potters. “I have found this clay to be perfect for supplying part of the mineral content needed in my celadon glaze. By itself, it forms a beautiful dark brown glaze when fired to stoneware temps,” says Dye. Her works of art are especially designed for cooking. She crafts those pieces using the clay beneath her feet, fired by the wood that is foraged nearby.

unfinished lumber scraps destined for the landfill. The amount of wood thrown away in urban environments is stunning. I have no trouble finding enough wood to fire my kiln within a five block area.”

“My fuel is construction cut-offs and other

For more information: marydyepotter.com.

She fires her pots in a wood-fired kiln at her Oak Park studio. The ash and flame form a glaze on the bare clay. The swirls are created by the eddies of flames which leave marks on the pots. Her work is for sale at local art shows and by commission.


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3404 N. Southport Ave. Chicago, IL 60657 JENIS.COM

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Cooking With the Seasons Holiday gatherings call for a special entrée, and most of us will turn to a classic roast of some sort. The aroma of roast turkey or roast beef always fills the house with a sense of delicious anticipation. Over the years as a cooking instructor, I have discovered preparing a holiday dinner causes the average home cook the most stress. For most cooks, making a roast for a large crowd of people only happens a few times a year. Now, they find themselves in charge of the centerpiece of the holiday meal and they have had little or no practice. As a result, a lot of holiday roasts “fail”. Most of the stories I hear go something like this… Large turkey or expensive cut of meat + little practice + the guests’ expectation of greatness + lots of family in the kitchen = stress for the cook = wine = overcooked meat = someone in tears… wait, maybe that’s just in my family. Making a roast for a holiday dinner need not be stressful. Roasts are simple. They only need two things: seasoning and, well...roasting. The key to a good roast is all in the timing: the meat needs to be properly cooked. Not overcooked, not undercooked—just perfectly cooked. So how does one achieve perfection? Just follow my four cooking tips and you will create a roast to remember. Use a thermometer to monitor the temperature of the meat while it cooks.

A Roast to Remember: PERFECTION ON A PLATTER Story and Recipe by Dana Benigno

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I recommend using a digital thermometer with a probe and an alarm ($21 to $25). Before you begin, check to make sure the thermometer is calibrated correctly. Place the probe in a glass of melted ice water. It should register between 32° and 34°. Now to begin roasting, place the probe in the thickest portion of the meat or if you are cooking poultry, put it in the thigh of the bird. Set the alarm to the desired temperature. The probe will monitor the internal temperature of the meat, while the digital reader remains outside the oven. This allows you to check the temperature without opening the oven, which causes the oven to lose heat. The alarm will alert Photo © Marco Mayer/shutterstock.com


How a thermometer saved the day: I visited my best friend one Thanksgiving. We were cooking a 10-pound turkey and I suggested she use the digital thermometer that came with her oven. She had never used it before and planned on cooking the turkey for 3½ hours, the recommended time for the size of turkey she had purchased. We used the thermometer and the turkey was done in 2½ hours. One more hour in the oven and her turkey would have been dry and overcooked. The meat thermometer saved dinner!

you in case you get distracted visiting with your guests. When the alarm sounds, the meat has reached the desired temperature. Roast your meat at the proper temperature. Turkey should be cooked in a 325° oven. This slow, lower temperature cooking method will allow the meat to cook evenly and creates a tender, juicy interior with a crispy, golden exterior. The same rule applies to cooking chicken, but because the bird is smaller than a turkey, they can cook faster in a hotter oven, about 375° or 400°. Beef and lamb roasts should also be roasted at higher temperatures to achieve a crusty brown exterior and a pink interior. Please refer to the chart for proper temperatures. Meat continues to cook after it is removed from the oven. Adjust your roasting time to account for “carry-over” cooking. A roast will continue to cook even after it has been removed from the oven. The internal temperature of the meat will rise approximately 2 degrees for every pound. To achieve a perfectly cooked roast, you have to allow for this “carry-over” cooking in your calculations. I always set my thermometer alarm to sound when the roast reaches a temperature five degrees lower than the desired cooking temperature. In other words, if the roast should reach an internal temperature of 165° to be fully cooked, I will set my alarm to ring when it reaches 160°. The roast will continue to cook once it is removed from the oven and the internal temperature will rise the remaining 5 degrees while it is resting. Let the roast rest to preserve the juice of the meat. Let the meat rest before carving it—about 10 minutes for small roasts, 30 minutes for large roasts. Th is will allow the meat to re-absorb the juices, so they remain in your turkey breast or roast beef instead of all over the cutting board. Follow these four tips and you can cook your next roast with confidence. Dana Benigno is the Executive Director of Chicago’s Green City Market and does her shopping from the farmers at the market. She is quite literally a “market to table” chef and loves to share special meals with friends. ediblechicago.com

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Roast Pork Shoulder with Rosemary and Sage Serves 8 to 10 This recipe for a pork roast is a perfect choice for a large gathering, because you can cook it a day in advance. This roast comes from the shoulder cut. Most roasts of this type are 6 to 8 pounds. It has a wonderful flavor and is an economical and delicious way to feed a crowd. I recommend you call ahead to your favorite butcher, farmer, or grocer and request a deboned pork shoulder roast, un-tied. 1 pork shoulder roast, deboned and un-tied 7 fresh sage leaves 4 cloves of fresh garlic

2 tablespoons olive oil 2 teaspoons Kosher Salt ½ teaspoon fresh ground pepper

4 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves removed 1. Place the sage, garlic and rosemary into a food processor. Add the olive oil and salt and pepper. Pulse to combine. Taste and add salt and pepper until it tastes good to you. 2. Rub the outside of the pork roast with the herb mixture and in the crevice space left from the removal of the bone. Use all of the herb mixture. 3. Using oven-safe string, tie the roast crosswise with several ties. It should be secure, but not too tight. Wrap the roast in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1-2 days before roasting. 4. Pre-heat oven to 325°. Place the meat in a roasting pan and cook for 1½ to 2 hours, until a meat thermometer placed in the center of the roast reads 145°. Let rest for 30 minutes before slicing. ADVANCED PREPARATION: Prepare and roast according to instructions. When the roast is completely cool, remove the strings and cut the roast into thin slices keeping them together as much as possible. Place the slices into an oven-safe serving dish and pour the pan juices over the top. Cover with foil and store in the refrigerator until ready to re-heat. TO REHEAT: Place the pork in a 350° oven for 30 minutes and serve.

Wine Pairing Carmel Road Monterey Pinot Noir ‘12 $17.99 Taste this wine and other delicious wines for your holiday table on December 20 from 4:30-6:30PM at Artisanal Wilmette, 414 Linden Ave, Wilmette.

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edible chicago | Winter 2013-2014

Photo © Alan Kadr/shutterstock.


Roasting Times and Cooking Temperatures for Meat Beef

Turkey

RARE: 120-130° Internal appearance very red; very moist with warm juices. Approximate cooking time: 20-25 minutes per pound plus 8-10 minutes resting.

Internal temperature 175° in the thickest part of the thigh. Roast at 325°.

MEDIUM-RARE: 130-140° Internal appearance lighter red; very moist with warm juices. Approximate cooking time: 25-30 minutes per pound plus 8-10 minutes resting. MEDIUM (WITH A TOUCH OF PINK): 140-150° Internal appearance pink-red color; moist with clear pink juice. Approximate cooking time: 30-35 minutes per pound plus 8-10 minutes resting. WELL-DONE: 150-165° Internal appearance no pink or red; slightly moist with clear juice. Approximate cooking time: 35 minutes per pound plus 8-10 minutes resting. Roast in a 325° to 425° oven depending on the cut of meat.

APPROXIMATE ROASTING TIMES FOR STUFFED TURKEY: TURKEY WEIGHT

HOURS

6 to 8 pounds

3 to 3½ hours

8 to 12 pounds

3½ to 4½ hours

12 to 16 pounds

4½ to 5½ hours

16 to 20 pounds

5½ to 6 hours

20 to 24 pounds

6 to 6½ hours

APPROXIMATE ROASTING TIMES FOR UNSTUFFED TURKEY:

Pork Internal temperature 145° and 20 minutes per pound for roast pork shoulder, loin or tenderloin, at 325°.

Chicken Internal temperature 170° in thickest part of the thigh. Roasting time for 3 to 5 pounds, approximately 20 minutes per pound in a 400° oven, plus 10 minutes resting.

Photo © Bochkarev Photography/shutterstock.com

TURKEY WEIGHT

HOURS

6 to 8 pounds

2½ to 3 hours

8 to 12 pounds

3 to 4 hours

12 to 16 pounds

4 to 5 hours

16 to 20 pounds

5 to 5½ hours

20 to 24 pounds

5½ to 6 hours Source: USDA

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LOCAL and IN SEASON for WINTER

FROM STORAGE

CULINARY HERBS

Apples Pears Beets Brussels sprouts Burdock root Carrots Celery root Potatoes Sweet potatoes Turnips Jerusalem artichokes Radishes Salsify Parsnips Rutabagas Winter squash

Basil Dill Cilantro Chives Mint Oregano Marjoram Parsley Sage Thyme

HOOP HOUSE GREENS Cooking greens Asian greens Micro greens Salad greens Broccoli Cabbage Kale Cauliflower Leeks Spinach Sprouts

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edible chicago | Winter 2013-2014

OTHER Chestnuts Cornmeal Dried onion Dried garlic Herbs Honey Horseradish Maple syrup Popcorn Preserves Barley Oat Rye Wheat

Photo © Olha Afanasieva/shutterstock.com


TIPS ON CHESTNUTS: Select chestnuts that are ďŹ rm and heavy for their size. Pinch themâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;there should be some â&#x20AC;&#x153;giveâ&#x20AC;? between the shell and the nut, but they should not rattle around in the shell. Select nuts that do not have holes or blemishes. Chestnuts are highly perishable, so store them in a ventilated bag in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator. If you arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t going to use them within a few days, seal them in an airtight bag and freeze them. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t leave them out at room temperature as they will develop mold and go rancid quickly.

Brussels Sprouts with Roasted Chestnuts Recipe adapted from Whole Foods Market. 10 chestnuts 1 tablespoon olive oil or safflower oil 1½ pounds Brussels sprouts

1 large or 2 small red bell peppers, diced Âź cup water

1. Preheat oven to 400°. Slash an â&#x20AC;&#x153;Xâ&#x20AC;? through chestnuts on the ďŹ&#x201A;at side of nut. Place them, cut side up on a cookie sheet and roast for 20 minutes. 2. When cool enough to handle, remove husk. Cut chestnuts into small pieces and set aside. 3. Clean and trim Brussels sprouts. If Brussels sprouts are large, cut in half vertically.

Before cooking, cut â&#x20AC;&#x153;Xâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;sâ&#x20AC;? in the shell, otherwise the nuts will explode in the oven, making a mess. A note about peeling chestnuts. There are two layers you have to peel through; the shell and the skin. The skin comes off more easily when the nut is hot; as the nut cools down, the skin hardens and becomes more difficult to get off. So, you need to keep the unpeeled ones warm while youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re peeling others. Tips from thekitchen.com

4. Heat oil in a large skillet and sautĂŠ red peppers for 3 minutes. 5. Add Brussels sprouts and sautĂŠ 3 more minutes. Add water, cover and steam about 5 minutes. Remove lid, stir in chestnuts and cook, uncovered, until chestnuts are warmed through and sprouts are tender, being careful not to overcook sprouts. Optional: garnish with fried bacon. Serve immediately.

Wine Pairing

Robert Hall Rhone Du Robles, Paso Robles â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;12Â $18.99 Taste this wine and other delicious wines for your holiday table on December 20 from 4:30-6:30PM at Artisanal Wilmette, 414 Linden Ave, Wilmette

3DVWXUH5DLVHG7HQGHU7DVW\ 1DWXUDOO\-XLF\ Chicago area or on-farm pick-up

Caveny Farm Heritage Poultry Monticello, Illinois www.cavenyfarm.com

Seasonal Sustainable Local

Celebrating â&#x20AC;&#x153;Conviviality of the Tableâ&#x20AC;? for 16 years throughout Chicagoland Join us! Upcoming events include: Dec. 10 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Italian Splendor, Tuscany Dec. 12 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Brazilian Christmas Feast, Sinha Jan. 26 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Signature Caviar Celebration, Anvil Club Feb. 9 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Valentine Romance, Trattoria Trullo Feb. 14 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Oopa!, Greek Islands

Chicago Gourmets Visit chicagogourmets.org or call 312-777-1090 for more information.

Photos: Top Š HandmadePictures/shutterstock.com Bottom Š Jiang Zhongyan/shutterstock

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ON OUR BOOK SHELF An American Family Cooks Recipes and tales from a family who cooks together James Beard award-winning author Judith Choate celebrates more than 50 years in the culinary world and shares a lifetime of family recipes and kitchen memories. Beautifully photographed with over 100 recipes for any occasion for the novice home cook to the seasoned home cook. © 2013 Welcome Books.

Winter Indoor Farmers Markets Finding fresh, seasonal food while supporting our local farmers throughout the winter season is possible, thanks to the following markets available during the winter months. We suggest you check the websites listed for the most updated information including dates, times and locations

EVANSTON INDOOR FARMER & ARTISAN FOOD MARKET Saturdays, 9:00AM-1:00PM. Evanston Ecology Center, 2024 McCormick Blvd. Information: cityofevanston.org

FAITH IN PLACE WINTER FARMERS MARKETS: Provence, 1970 And the reinvention of American Taste In the winter of 1970, culinary icons M.F.K. Fisher, Julia Child, James Beard, Simone Beck and Richard Olney all found themselves in Provence, France. Author Luke Barr, the great-nephew of M.F.K. Fisher, pieces together a fascinating account of events that happened during that winter from diaries and letters and how the group felt about a critical turning point in America’s food culture. © 2013 Clarkson Potter.

Saturdays or Sundays, 9:00AM-1:00PM. Faith in Place sponsors a number of indoor markets that traverse the Chicago land area throughout the winter. Information: faithinplace.org/events

GLENWOOD SUNDAY INDOOR MARKET: Sundays 9:00AM-2:00PM. Rogers Park, Chicago. The Glenwood Bar, 6962 N. Glenwood Ave. Information: glenwoodsundaymarket.org.

GREEN CITY INDOOR MARKET: Saturdays, 8:00AM-1:00PM. Lincoln Park, Chicago. Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum, 2430 N. Cannon Dr. Information: greencitymarket.org

LOGAN SQUARE INDOOR MARKET: The Mobile Poultry Slaughterhouse Building a Humane ChickenProcessing Unit for a Stronger Local Food System “I didn’t choose to be a humane slaughter activist/advocate. It chose me.” Author Ali Berlow has written a step by step manual for how to create a humane, mobile poultry slaughterhouse for small scale farmers or farming communities. She shares her personal account of the unit’s success in Massachusetts. © 2013 Storey Publishing.

Fried Walleye and Cherry Pie Midwestern Writers on Food Chicago food journalist Peggy Wolff has been chronicling Midwestern food traditions for the past ten years. As a result, she authored an anthology containing 30 charming, thoughtprovoking essays by a collection of writers about Midwestern life, people and some unique culinary traditions. © 2013 University of Nebraska Press

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edible chicago | Winter 2013-2014

Sundays, 10:00AM-3:00PM. Logan Square, Chicago. 2755 N. Milwaukee Ave. NOSH—a prepared food event will be joining the market for the season. Information: logansquarefarmersmarket.org

THE EMPTY BOTTLE FARMERS MARKET: Third Saturdays, 12:00PM-5:00PM. Ukrainian Village, Chicago. 1035 N. Western Ave. Information: emptybottle.com

THE 61ST STREET INDOOR FARMERS MARKET: Monthly on Saturdays, 9:00AM-2:00PM. Hyde Park, Chicago. 6100 S. Blackstone Ave. Information: experimentalstation.org

CONNECT WITH US ANYTIME: ediblechicago.com

Photo © GooDween13/shutterstock.com


Connect

Engage Taste Discover Grow Buy Tickets Online Now and Save!

March 13-15, 2014 UIC Forum · Chicago Connect with entrepreneurs, small business leaders, and financing professionals at Thursday’s Good Food Financing Conference.

Engage with school food and policy stakeholders, farmers, and Good Food Movement industry leaders at Friday’s multifaceted Conference and Trade Show.

Taste fresh food and drinks with local ingredients made by Chicago’s top chefs, craft brewers, and distilleries at the Localicious Party. Discover the gems of your city – amazing urban agriculture, local food artisans, DIY communities, and more at Saturday’s family-friendly Festival.

Grow with us as we celebrate 10 years of growing the Good Food Movement!

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Incredibly Edible

Croissants to Crave: BEURRAGE IN PILSEN Story by Anne Spiselman & Photographs by Amanda Areias

Jeffrey Hallenbeck is crazy about croissants. The 26-year-old co-owner of Beurrage—a bakery named for the block of butter layered into the dough of the delicate pastry to achieve the flaky texture— can’t remember exactly when his obsession started, but it’s been ruling his life since the beginning of 2012. That’s when he began making croissants a couple of times a week in anticipation of Beurrage’s debut at the Pilsen Community Market on the first Sunday in June that year. Trying out different kinds of flour, butter and techniques, he repeatedly tested the results on friends and coworkers to get their feedback. It was the weekend before his initial foray into the farmers market when he realized he was onto something. He did a practice run of his mini mass production at Fig Catering, where he held down a full-time job until the end of 2012. Everything he baked was set out on a table in front of the business at 1850 S. Blue Island Avenue and was snapped up within an hour. “We just set up a folding table on the sidewalk. We probably seemed a little out of place, but we got a lot of attention by passersby and local shop owners who seemed pretty excited about the pastries we were offering,” he says. This foreshadowed what was to

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edible chicago | Winter 2013-2014

come at the Pilsen market: The plain and sweet croissants, several kinds of Danish and three or four types of hearth-style bread sold out in an hour or two. “I was stunned and inspired,” Hallenbeck says. “That market is small, so I wasn’t expecting to sell much. I was blown away by all of the positive comments, and people kept asking if we had a storefront.” After that kind of feedback, he and his partner, Isaiah Simpson, increased production every weekend and continued to sell out at the market. They also moved from an apartment in Edgewater to Pilsen to facilitate their crazy all-night-baking schedule. In 2013, they added the Edgewater Farmers Market and a number of wholesale clients, among them Katherine Anne Confections and several coffee houses. Creating a storefront was also high on the list. In mid-February, they signed a lease for space at 1248 W. 18th Street, which they were rehabbing at press time, and hoped to have ready as a production facility by the holidays, with a retail area to follow. Until the space is fully functioning, Hallenbeck is using Fig’s kitchen to turn out dozens of breads, pastries and viennoiseries (a cross between bread and pastry). He has also hired


“We just set up a folding table on the sidewalk. We probably seemed a little out of place, but we got a lot of attention by passersby and local shop owners who seemed pretty excited about the pastries we were offering.” – Jeffrey Hallenbeck Jeffrey Hallenbeck

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bread, such as baguettes, sourdough and ciabatta. His basic ingredients include Heartland Mill’s certified organic, highgluten, unbleached white flour and rye flour, Kilgus Farmstead dairy products and Ellis Family Farms (in Benton Harbor, Michigan) eggs and honey, as well as produce. He also buys local honey from John Bailey (who has the stall next to his at the Pilsen market), Stamper cheese, which represents Southwestern Wisconsin cheese-makers and seasonal fruits and vegetables from Nichols Farm and Orchard, Windy City Harvest and others. Last summer he planted an herb garden, which supplied basil for pesto bread and oregano for a squash and sheep milk cheese croissant.

a delivery man and a couple of part-time bakers. Simpson runs the markets and handles administrative tasks, while also working a full-time job as a software developer for GrubHub.

day, cupcakes, pies, cookies, everything,” he says. “I learned a lot. It was a really good introduction to the industry.” It also was his only training, since he never enrolled in a culinary program.

Beurrage’s success is especially surprising to Hallenbeck because he never planned to become a professional baker. He always loved cooking and baking with his parents, both chemists, in his hometown of West Lafayette, Indiana and admits to getting hooked on the Food Network when he was in middle school, but his affinity shifted over time. He moved to Chicago in 2006, studied architecture at the Illinois Institute of Technology, and graduated in the spring of 2011.

Hallenbeck found himself getting restless working for someone else, however. “I was really interested in laminated pastries like croissants because they’re so difficult, but they’re such an intense specialty product, we never made them for catering,” he explains. Laminated pastries involve wrapping dough around butter in alternating layers. It is an intricate and time-consuming process. So, when he had the idea of testing his own venture at the Pilsen market, he approached Fig’s coowner, Justin Hall, to ask for weekends off. “He was so supportive, he suggested I share Fig’s kitchen.”

When the reality of a bad economy set in and he couldn’t find employment in his field, he applied for food industry jobs. He recalls getting lots of rejections, but Fig Catering hired him as assistant baker to pastry chef/co-owner, Molly Schemper. “We baked breads for sandwiches every

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Lately, Hallenbeck’s typical work day starts at 8pm and ends at 8am. He prepares an average of 100 sweet and savory pastries every night, plus small batches of

Hallenbeck continues to experiment with ingredients. He started making his own cultured butter from Kilgus cream. He adds a cheese culture to about 15 gallons of cream, lets it ferment for 12 hours and then churns the crème fraîche into butter that’s closer to the texture he wants for croissants than what commercial options provide. The croissants are made by preparing the dough—flour, sugar, salt, milk and his unique twist, some of his sourdough starter—and “laminating” it with the butter. The dough is rolled out flat with the butter on top, and then folded into thirds like a letter. The process is repeated three times, and the goal is to have layers of dough separated by layers of butter so thin, you can’t see them. “A lot can go wrong,” Hallenbeck points out. “You have to keep everything as cold as possible or the butter will melt. The dough has to match the texture of the butter, so they roll out evenly. And the croissants have to proof for the right amount of time, which varies with the seasons since we rely on room temperature. If they don’t proof enough, butter can leak out during baking. If they proof too long, the croissants won’t rise up in the oven, they’ll spread out.” Hallenbeck describes Beurrage as “a work in progress,” so it’s no surprise his


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goodfoodfestivals.com ediblechicago.com

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repertoire is evolving. Last holiday season brought specials that he may repeat this year including bourbon maple pecan pie, pumpkin croissants, cornmeal sourdough bread (good for stuffings), panettone and he’ll undoubtedly have new pies, tarts and pastries, too. Just don’t expect any cakes, cupcakes, cookies, or other sweets leavened with baking powder or baking soda, because he has an aversion to using chemicals and thinks it’s cheating.

celebrate the holidays at

THE SIGNATURE ROOM A T T H E 9 5 T H® 875 N Michigan Avenue 312.787.9596 www.signatureroom.com

If the Beurrage storefront is finished in time for the holiday season, Hallenbeck might make a display gingerbread house like the replica of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater he constructed for Christmas in 2011. “I’d love to do something like that again,” he says, “but it took two weeks to bake and assemble.” He says this year he may not create the edible architectural masterpiece, but at least it’s for a good reason— he may be too busy turning out the perfectly crafted croissant. At press time, Beurrage had yet to open its storefront but baked goods can be found at a select number of coffee shops, or by special order. Most pastries: $2.50-$3.50, loaves of bread: $5-$6. 773-998-2371. For more information: www.beurrage.com Anne Spiselman has a keen interest in finding the best new sustainable food artisans in Chicagoland. As a regular contributor to Edible Chicago, she covers all things sweet and savory and shares them with our readers.

Your supplier of farm fresh, locally raised and processed, humane certified Piedmontese beef. You can find us at Chicago area farmers markets. See our web site for exact locations

www.heartlandmeats.com

815-538-5326

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edible chicago | Winter 2013-2014

Photographer Amanda Areias was born and raised in Southeastern Brazil. With a background in Culinary Arts, she is especially drawn to the world of food and how it brings people together. Her work has been featured in the Huffington Post, Chicago Reader and Today’s Chicago Woman magazine. Having spent more than five years in the US, studying English and photography, Amanda is now moving back to Brazil but will always consider Chicago her second home. To see more of her work: amandaareias.com


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Coffee Break

Q & A WITH JAMES GRAY, GENERAL MANAGER OF

Glazed and Infused Doughnuts Interview by Ann Flood & Photographs by Kaitlyn McQuaid When chef James Gray came on the scene as operations manager of the wildly popular boutique doughnut company Glazed and Infused, it was like coming home. After attending Le Cordon Bleu school in Chicago, he headed to Pittsburgh and spent five years building a successful full service bakery and cafe concept called Dozen Bakery Shop. Gray missed family and his Midwestern roots and longed for the Chicago food scene. He returned to Chicago and eventually landed at Glazed and Infused, 26

edible chicago | Winter 2013-2014

created by Scott Harris of Francesca’s Restaurants. Not only does Chef Gray get to decide on the doughnut flavors including a maple glazed long john with peppered bacon, he’s currently hoping to open more stores in 2014. AF: Home kitchen most indispensible to you. JG: My chef’s knife: 8” Wustof knife I’ve had since I started cooking/baking professionally. AF: Frst kitchen memory?

JG: Grandma’s kitchen! My family is Slovak and Ukrainian and my grandmother and the older generation spoke Slovak while cooking very traditional foods. The kitchen had a very distinct smell of onions cooked in butter and pots of Lipton Tea with lemon juice. The women all stayed in the kitchen, but there was so much energy that I wanted to be there. AF: Favorite guilty-pleasure sweet treat if a Glazed and Infused doughnut is not within reach.


NAHA Celebrating 13 Years and

Star 2014 Chicago Michelin Guide

500 NORTH CLARK STREET in CHICAGO 312 321 6242 NAHA-CHICAGO.COM INFO@NAHA-CHICAGO.COM

RESERVE YOUR COPY TODAY! greencitymarket.org

Visit Green City Market the first and third Saturdays of each month Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum 2430 N. Cannon Drive

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JG: Chips! I’m more of a salty guy than sweet. AF: What Chicago restaurant have you been wanting to try, but haven’t had time to go yet. JG: Nightwood. I’ve been eating at Lula since it opened, but just haven’t found the time to get down to Nightwood. AF: Special occasion restaurant? JG: I love Au Cheval. Everything about it is good and that is now my special occasion restaurant. AF: What’s on your nightstand to read? JG: Food for Thought, an Indiana Harvest. It’s a great cookbook that showcases Indiana families and their contributions to great food in the area. I’m technically from Indiana and that state gets very little attention, yet its farmers and small producers contribute quite a bit to the Midwest region. AF: Describe a favorite childhood memory. JG: There was a small corner store down the block from my grandmother’s house that had “penny” candy. The store was actually called Penny’s. There was a huge display with all these plastic bins with candy. I would get a small brown bag and fill it with Swedish fish. It’s not there anymore and I am so sad about it. AF: Pumpkin, apple, pecan pie or other for the holidays? JG: Pumpkin for sure. Years ago I adjusted all the spices on my pumpkin pies to give them a real spice kick. Nothing beats the combination of cinnamon, nutmeg, clove and allspice. AF: Favorite ingredient to cook with.

Editor’s Note: Donut lovers mark your calendar: The Chicago Donut Fest debuts January 26, 2014 at the venue 1st Ward in Wicker Park’s Chop Shop 2033 W. North Avenue.

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JG: Any fresh herbs. I keep terra cotta pots on the windowsill all year around. AF: Best part of living in Chicago? JG: This city is truly like a small town. It’s easy to get to know people and folks in the culinary scene are down to earth and enjoy collaborations. There’s a real sense of community about


our food scene. AF: When you have a weekend or a day off, favorite place to escape? JG: Usually head down to my mom’s. She lives near the lake in Whiting, Indiana. It’s a 20-minute drive but we feel a million miles away. She’s usually got something cooking and always has a cake on the table. AF: If you weren’t running Glazed and Infused, what would be your dream job? JG: Farmer of some sort. After living in Pennsylvania for many years I really fell in love with a more rural lifestyle. I’d love to have some goats and chickens someday and a little barn to have parties in. AF: Describe yourself in three adjectives. JG: Driven, energetic, optimistic Glazed and Infused currently has five locations in Chicago. More information: Goglazed.com Kaitlyn McQuaid is a Chicago based photographer with experience in news, event and food related photography. You can find Kaitlyn out in the field photographing farm animals as well as inside the kitchen snapping culinary creations. When she doesn’t have a camera in hand, you can find her strumming on her old banjo. She is an avid cook and regular contributor to Edible Chicago.

Stop by Glazed & Infused in Lincoln Park, 939 W. Armitage Ave., on Thurs., Dec., 19 from 8AM-10AM and get a donut of your choice for just $1.00 and pick up an Edible Chicago gift subscription card for 50% off!

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From the Good Earth

SALTWATER SHRIMP IN THE MIDDLE OF THE PRAIRIE Story by Terra Brockman

It was the proverbial “dark and stormy night” when I made my way over to the Steiner Farm, about ten cornfield-lined miles from my home in central Illinois. A soft light beckoned from inside a large metal machine shed behind the farmhouse. I stepped inside and was greeted by the musky, sweet smell of honeycomb from just-harvested honey. 30

edible chicago | Winter 2013-2014

Past the honey room was the large open space of the machine shed, and the reason I had come—four large, above-ground swimming pools full of thousands of saltwater shrimp. Dave Steiner and his daughter Marie were waiting for me near one of the 6,200-gallon tanks with a bucket of justharvested shrimp. Dave held one in his

hand for me to inspect—five pairs of legs, beady black eyes on short stalks, and an almost translucent body that brought to mind delicate stained glass. Dave and his wife Sandy and their seven children are the first saltwater shrimp farmers in Illinois. They are raising these sea creatures in the middle of the prairie nearly 1,000 miles from the nearest body of naturally occurring


salt water and over 2,000 miles from the native habitat of Penaeus vannamei, the Pacific white shrimp that lives in the warm waters from Sonora, Mexico down to Peru. And they are producing them year-round, meaning that even in the depths of winter, when fresh fruits and vegetables aren’t available, and even the hens are hunkering down to save their energy, you can indulge in local shrimp. Shrimp is the number one seafood eaten in the United States, with over a billion pounds of it imported annually, the vast majority from environmentally destructive tropical farms. Dave Steiner is seeking to produce a superior product and meet local consumer demand with a much gentler environmental footprint. He gets tiny 11-day old hatchlings overnighted to him from Florida hatcheries. They go into the saltwater tanks where it takes them 150 days to get to market size, which is 18 grams, or about 22 to 24 shrimp per pound. It turns out, however, that simulating an ocean environment inside a machine shed is a challenge. Before I know it, Dave is deep into explanations about the roles of bacteria, aerobic and anaerobic, in breaking down nitrates. He says the idea is to create a sustainable ecosystem in the tanks. “It’s a biofloc system,” he says, explaining that biofloc is a community of organisms that form a colony in the water. The colony takes in nutrients from the water and turns them into protein and fat, which the shrimp eat, in addition to the shrimp feed he provides them. In turn, the biofloc community consumes the shrimp waste. This symbiotic relationship keeps the water clean and cuts the cost of feed. The system also provides a bonus perk for the farmer. When it’s time to retire some of the water from a tank, Steiner uses it as a fertilizer on their asparagus patch, since asparagus can take the salinity. The result, he says, has been some impressive asparagus. The road to the Steiner’s saltwater shrimp business has been a long one. Dave explains that when he was a boy, he and his cousin from Florida decided they wanted to be marine biologists. He maintained his interest in biology all the

way through high school and college, but ended up with an Agricultural Economics degree from Illinois State University that he now characterizes as “almost useless” in relation to his family’s various entrepreneurial farm businesses. After college, Dave went to work on a confinement hog farm, and then taught agriculture classes at two central Illinois high schools. But he didn’t let his marine dreams die. He went to an aquaponics seminar and got excited about doing something like that on his farm. He researched online, called people and asked questions, and finally, after a few life events, he says, “six kids and four surgeries and one house fire later” he got serious. In 2010, he went to an Indiana aquaponics company where he intended to buy a setup to raise tilapia, but the company said they weren’t doing tilapia anymore and, they said “shrimp was where you wanted to be.” Marie chimes in that “Shrimp are more interesting, anyway.” One month later, he was insulating the machine shed, putting in a geothermal system to heat the tanks and setting up his shrimp farm. Dave says that although he has yet to turn

Photos: Top Left © Eugene Sergeev/shutterstock.com Opposite © Mati Bitibhon/shutterstock.com

a profit in the shrimp business, he’s happy to be doing entrepreneurial farming that feeds the family and the community and involves the whole family. Dave ticks them off: “Samuel is 15 and is very good with marketing and sales. He does the website and Facebook, and the packaging and weighing. Aaron (13) is in charge of the chicken and egg business, and is skilled with his hands. He’s been making and selling picnic tables and benches and doing other carpentry work. Silas (11) is good with art and design and designed the Steiner Farm T-shirts and painted their sign. Marie and Mindy (9 and 7) are involved with various cleaning and organizing tasks, and the youngest, Abram and Seth, have turned out to be excellent salesmen.” Dave says that last year at the Congerville Farmers Market, all the kids were told to welcome people and hand out business cards. It turned out that the kids who handed out the most cards, were Abram and Silas, then 4 and 2 years old. Dave puts my bucket of shrimp into a ziplock bag and ices them down before I leave the farm. Ten minutes later, back in ediblechicago.com

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Gambas al Ajillo (Garlic Shrimp Tapa)

Wine Pairing

Makes 4 servings as an appetizer

Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs, North Coast ‘10 $37.99

¼ cup virgin olive oil

1 lemon for juice

4 large cloves of garlic, fi nely minced

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 teaspoon sweet Spanish paprika or red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley 1 fresh baguette, sliced

1 pound shrimp, about 25 to a pound—you can leave the shells on, or peel them off 1. In a sauté pan or heavy frying pan, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and sauté for about 1 minute or until they just begin to brown.

Taste this wine and other delicious wines for your holiday table on December 20 from 4:30PM-6:30PM at Artisanal Wilmette, 414 Linden Avenue, Wilmette.

2. Raise the heat to high and immediately add the shrimp and lemon juice. Sauté, stirring briskly until the shrimp turn pink and curl, about 3 minutes. 3. Remove from heat and transfer shrimp with oil and sauce to a warm plate or serve right from the pan. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Sprinkle with parsley. Serve with fresh bread.

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Photos: Top © Robin Stewart/shutterstock.com Bottom © Alan Kadr/shutterstock.com


my kitchen, I put a pot of water on to boil. In go the shrimp, and in just a couple of seconds, they turn a lovely coral pink. A minute later, I take them out of the boiling water and refrigerate them. The next day, a friend who lived in Spain, says we should make gambas al ajilloâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;shrimp with garlic. One of the most common tapas of Spain, gambas al ajillo is quick and easy and allows the fresh shrimp to shine. We cooked up a batch using the Steiner shrimp. Moments later we experience a very clean, pure, light taste and a perfect delicate texture, right in between soft and firm. I shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have been surprised that fresh, local shrimp is the same as fresh, local anythingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;much, much tastier than the same item mass-produced and shipped in from thousands of miles away. Also not surprising, ecologically healthy practices produce a superior product. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The whole green thing,â&#x20AC;? says Dave, â&#x20AC;&#x153;is something the Steiner Farm is committed to doing. We donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t use any antibiotic or anything like that. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just 100 percent natural.â&#x20AC;? Dave is still working out the kinks in his system, but hopes to hold up the Steiner Farm as a model for ecological shrimp farmingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;mimicking natural systemsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;not just farming shrimp, but farming algae, bacteria and shrimp that act in concert to do right by the earth, while bringing a delicious product to market.

Join our CSA! Monthly CSA - 3 or 6 month options Beef, Lamb, Goat & Veal/Pork & Poultry Weekly CSA - Fresh Meat, Eggs & Milk Online Ordering and Home Delivery Available. Sign up at: www.mintcreekfarm.com or 815-953-5682

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It is true that at $18 a pound these shrimp are more expensive than their tropical cousins, but instead of out-sourcing billions of dollars every year on imported shrimp, with high externalized costs such as the destruction of mangrove swamps and rampant use of antibiotics, the superior flavor and environmental profile of these fresh shrimp make them more than fairly priced. Dave says itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s still too early to know exactly how far this business will go. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s part of an educationâ&#x20AC;Śthe whole project is bigger than we are. It opens doors, and we take each step in faith.â&#x20AC;? As we turn to leave, Dave turns off the light in the shed, telling me to look for jumping shrimp. And there they are, doing backflips in their saltwater pool in the center of the cornfields of central Illinois. The Steiner Farm is located at 2298 County Road 800 N. in El Paso, IL. They are open from 9:00AMâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;12:00PM, Saturdays, but call ahead for availability of shrimp, 309-232-3475. For more information: www.thesteinerfarm.com Terra Brockman is part of a ďŹ ve-generation farm family in the Mackinaw River Valley of central Illinois. A James Beard Award nominated author, speaker and passionate advocate for sustainable agriculture, she is also the Founder of The Land Connection, working to preserve farmland.

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The Lake Effect

PLEASANT HOUSE BAKERY:

A Royal Treat Story by Amelia Levin & Photographs by Grant Kessler

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At this time of year, when the days are a little grayer and that cold wind whips against your face, there is nothing quite like coming inside, out of the elements, to seek comfort and warm-up with a hot beverage, a steaming bowl of stew or a cup of soup. But, have you ever done the same with a meat pie? For the past two years, at Pleasant House Bakery, the husband and wife team of Art and Chelsea Jackson have warmed and comforted Bridgeport locals with their piping-hot-andcreamy-on-the-inside, buttery-and-crispy-on-the-outside savory pies. The pies are also served at their new location in Three Oaks, Michigan, which is just around the Lake Michigan bend, past Indiana. Forget the trendy baked ‘cronuts’ craze. These “royal pies,” as the Jacksons call them, show every sign of becoming the next “it” thing. Think pot pie meets beef stew meets toasted croissant shell. Straight from the oven, baked fresh daily, these perfectly formed pockets of pleasure make the perfect meal. The all-butter, traditional English crust is shaped like a crown and pairs especially well with a fresh salad made from locally-grown vegetables and a glass of bubbly, house-made ginger soda. No wonder this little bakery, at the corner of 31st and Morgan Streets on Chicago’s Southside, has garnered a loyal following. Viewed from the outside, the quaint, white stucco walls lined with flower boxes and a little chalkboard sign, exude “pleasant”. Inside, the former hot dog stand, is minimalist in décor and offers just a few seats. In the warmer months, however, the space doubles when a back patio is opened. The outdoor oasis hums with pie-eating diners parked on picnic tables. The location, next to Marie’s Bar is key: bar patrons can order and enjoy freshly baked meat pies with their beer or, thanks to a BYO liquor license, they can take their beer bottles with them back to the bakery. Carryout is also an option. The pies come with instructions so they can be reheated till they are piping hot, but without burning the artisan shell. The Jacksons also ship frozen pies. Though it was never Art Jackson’s initial intention to produce British meat pies, the concept made perfect sense. Jackson, the former fine dining chef at Les Nomades, a celebrated French restaurant in Chicago, is also a certified Neapolitan pizza maker through the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletan (VPN). It has also been a longtime dream of his to open his own restaurant. When he finally ventured out, he turned to the comfort food of his childhood. “My dad being, from England, my grandmother was a big influence on my cooking,” Jackson recalls. “As a child I was exposed early on to the rich sausage rolls and the meat pies of British cuisine. When I was growing up and my family saw I had an interest in cooking, my grandma said to me, ‘If you want to have a restaurant, you should be like my friend in New Zealand, who had a simple shop and made these delicious pies—had a mixer and an oven. And that was it.’”

Chelsea Jackson at the counter in Bridgeport.

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“I said, ‘No, grandma, I’m going to be a fancy French chef when I grow up.’ And that’s what I was for a long time, but oddly enough... that story came full circle.”

Although the term “royal pies” might make the food sound like a posh or fancy treat, the pies made by the Jacksons are meant to be enjoyed by everyone. “Our approach is lighthearted and comical and everybody is a royal,” he says.

Married now for ten years, both Art and Chelsea attended culinary school at Kendall College. In addition to the restaurant, Chelsea also worked as an editor for the Illinois Institute of Technology, putting together publications that specialized in baking and pastry. When their restaurant business boomed, however, she left her editing post to oversee the new Three Oaks location. Chelsea also contributes delicious daily sweet specials like Banoffee Pie, served with a beautiful whipped cream topping and other traditional British delicacies including sticky toffee pudding, trifle, custard and meringue desserts topped with cream and Michigan fruit. Occasionally, Chelsea will offer a fruit-filled Cornish pasty, but the star of the menu is the traditional, savory version served in a variety of flavors.

of life and ethnicity and background. If we wanted to, we could get people to maintain it for free, because they want the experience and are so interested in what we’re doing.” Their urban farm, however, is managed by Chelsea’s brother who handles their day-to-day growing needs.

For the Jacksons, opening Pleasant House Bakery in Bridgeport was serendipitous. When they first started dreaming of having their own restaurant, they knew a farm was a must and had to be part of the picture. They wanted to tend to the earth and continue their love of gardening. They both grew up in rural areas: he in Kane County, Illinois; she in Kansas.

Whatever they can grow in their garden, goes into their pies, from tender greens to herbs. “We also have a simple salad on our menu, so we grow a lot of dirt candy: radishes, cucumbers, flowers and arugula, in addition to the different lettuces,” says Jackson. At one point, the Jacksons planted 350 different types of tomato plants in a space near Art’s hometown.

As luck would have it, some architect friends of theirs owned a small plot of land just a block away from their Bridgeport restaurant. This plot was the beginning of an “urban farm” which also includes a community garden in Pilsen and a vertical, urban farming incubator at The Plant in the Back of the Yards neighborhood on the southwest side.

“We’ve made a Thai curry pork meat pie with tomatillos and Japanese eggplant from our garden as well,” Chelsea Jackson says. “On Sunday we do a traditional carvery dinner, like roast beef with Yorkshire pudding. We use a lot of our produce for that and we also have trays of micro-greens during the winter.” Though the farm’s main purpose is to supply the restaurants, the Jacksons have sold some of their surplus at farmers markets in Hyde Park and Pilsen. Of course, they also sell their pies and sodas.

“From day one, people would walk by and see this activity in our garden and wonder what the heck was going on,” Art Jackson says. “But it quickly started to pay off— literally. The ground is a very humbling thing and it connects people. We’ve interacted with people from every walk

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béchamel-style filling spiked with Parmesan cheese, is touted as the most “craveable.”

edible chicago | Winter 2013-2014

Of all their royal pies, the Steak and Ale still reigns supreme on their menu, but according to Art, the vegetarian-friendly, Mushroom and Kale Pie with the creamy, earthy,

Even selecting Bridgeport for their restaurant location was strategic. Besides being close to their longtime home in Pilsen, “We knew we’d be opening right in the middle of the cusp of hipness and all that, but were we going to get the mechanics down the street, and the generations of families that live in the neighborhood, from the Lithuanians, to the Irish, the Italians, the Chinese and the Hispanics? We did and that was a great accomplishment to us.” The idea of opening a second location in another state was a bit daunting at first, but proved easier as the new location was only an hour away from Bridgeport—a quick hop on the Dan Ryan expressway. The Three Oaks, Michigan location is markedly similar to the original restaurant—it is located in a close-knit community, which attracts year-round locals, farmers, and, in the summer, travelers from Chicago. “As kids, both Art and I would visit Harbor Country,” says Chelsea Jackson. “When we found out about the space from a friend of ours, we went back and instantly fell in love with the town. Everyone was so kind and welcoming and the space itself had tons of character.” After years of making beer at home, the new, roomier location in Michigan also allowed the Jacksons to build their own on-site brewery. “Like gardening, making beer was always part of plan,” says Art. “The idea of crafting the ultimate pie and the ultimate pint just seemed to go together.” Lighter in alcohol and hops, the food-friendly Pleasant House beers are refreshing and easy on the palate. For example, the popular Violet Beauregarde ale, (named after the Willy Wonka


character), uses Michigan blueberries from a nearby farmer which are then paired with malted barley from Castleford, England, the hometown of Art’s grandfather. The Chronometer, a steam beer gets its name from a sea faring device invented by Art’s ancestors from the same area in England. “We are able to tell the story about discovery and craftsmanship and tinkering through our beer,” he says. Art attributes the success of the brewery to Brewmaster, Amanda Bates, who they recruited from the Brew and Grow shop they used to frequent in Chicago. Some of the beer they make in Three Oaks goes into the food—like the Steak and Ale Pie and the mustards used on the scotch eggs. Managing the two locations, the brewery and the farm is a busy job, which a glance at Art’s notebook makes evident. It is filled with ideas and To Do Lists, but it is the help of their solid, loyal employees that keeps the business running. “We realize if we stayed too small, we’d have to keep finding more things for our people to do.” Art smiles and hints that there are three more endeavors in the works—another restaurant, for starters. How do you keep up with an ever-expanding workload? According to Art, “Just keep going!” A little passion doesn’t hurt either. Pleasant House Bakery is located at 964 W. 31st St. Chicago, IL 773-523-7437. Pleasant House Three Oaks is located at 9 N. Elm St. Three Oaks, MI 269-756-3600 For more information: pleasanthousethreeoaks.com. Amelia Levin is an author, a chef and a food adventurist. From savory to sweet and city to country, she has covered a lot of ground as a regular contributor to Edible Chicago. Grant Kessler is a freelance commercial photographer who specializes in local food, farm and restaurant photography. He is obsessed with cooking with fresh, local foods as well as growing his own food. For more than four years, Grant’s photographs have been featured regularly on the cover of Edible Chicago and in our Lake Eff ect column about Chicago chefs.

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Kids in the Kitchen

Winter Greens Make Cool Chips

Story by Portia Belloc Lowndes & Photographs on Page 40 by Roark Johnson

Getting children to eat vegetables can be a challenge. Having spent the majority of my career in the food world, friends often have the perception that my life is full of organic meals at the table, edible gardens, home packed lunches and that my kids eat everything I put out. That is far from the real world I live in! I probably do more than most in those departments, but I am also a normal, often stressed-out, single mother on a budget. I pick my food battles. I do my best. I bend, I fold—and yes, we do have our share of Ben & Jerry’s and (gasp) white bread in the house. I do, however, have a mantra: I would rather pay a farmer then a doctor. I make it a priority to engage my kids in all activities related to food. I believe

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preparing food is the most basic and important life skill a child can learn. It engages them in a slew of subjects; math, science, history, art—and it’s a great way to spend time together. Since a very young age, my girls have been breaking eggs, gardening and, as all lessons go, making mistakes along the way. When my kids were very young, getting them to eat vegetables wasn’t too difficult as they had little choice in the matter, but then it seemed overnight a food wall went up and the challenges began. They preferred white foods—pasta, chicken, potatoes. That was it. No spices, no color. I remember asking them what they wanted for dinner and they replied, “clean noodles”. Interpretation: nothing

on them. I found myself rinsing off sauce in a colander one day, at my wits’ end, conceding defeat to the bland, white food world. I had to reintroduce colors back into their universe. I also knew that I had to make the food taste good for them to want to eat it. I am not a fan of the strategy of hiding good foods in regular dishes that children would eat. A few years back, a famous comedian’s wife wrote a cookbook that focused on disguising “good” food so kids would eat it. I disagree. Don’t sneak good foods into comfortable foods for the kids or they will never learn to eat it in its natural state. I repeat: make the food taste good and they will eat it. Engage them in the process at any stage you can,

Photo © JKB Stock/shutterstock.com


from gardening or shopping or, most importantly, in the kitchen. I tackled kale early on one winter when that seemed to be the greenest thing out there still growing at the farm where I worked. Considered to be a super food, there is no greater vitamin and nutrientpacked fruit or vegetable on the market then kale. If you can get your kids to eat kale, you really are getting the most bang for your buck. My eldest daughter Kiki’s opinion on raw kale is that it tastes like bitter old grass. So I knew I had to come up with a recipe that she would try and help me prepare in the kitchen. Kale chips was the winner. Like potato chips, these little prizes are crispy, salty and addictive with way more nutrients than potato chips and a fraction of the calories. So we made a batch and they disappeared faster than I could have imagined. Skip the commercial potato chips and get on the kale chip wagon. In addition to kale, you can make chips out of any hearty and sturdy winter greens such as spinach, Swiss chard, mustard and collards. Also, if your kale chips start falling apart, you can crumble them up into a powder and sprinkle it on popcorn. In the same way potato chips come in a bevy of flavors, you can create different flavors with kale. I have made salt and pepper chips, parmesan and toasted garlic, vinegar and salt, even sesame seed and scallion,

using sesame oil instead of olive oil. The possibilities are endless and tapping into kids’ imaginations keeps them involved and invested in their food choices. Portia Belloc Lowndes was the Co-Founder and Leader of Slow Food Chicago and served on the National Board of Directors of Slow Food USA. She recently formed project FEAST, a special events company. Portia and her daughter Kiki are currently working on a book, Farm to Table: KIDS. When she is not in the kitchen, she is often on her bicycle, peddling the countryside. Roark Johnson is a Chicago based photographer specializing in portraits on location for editorial and commercial clients. He is also the brother of the author of this feature. Talent runs in the family—especially when food is the subject.

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Kale Chips 1 bunch kale (about 6-8 cups torn) 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon Kosher salt Additional seasonings are optional 1. Preheat oven to 325°. 2. Remove the stems from the kale. 3. Wash and dry the kale. 4. Tear kale into bite size pieces and place in a bowl. Add oil and seasoning and toss, making sure kale is coated with oil. 5. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or Silpat for easier clean up. 6. Place the kale pieces onto baking pan in a single layer so they do not touch. 7. Bake 10 minutes, remove from oven and then flip the pieces. 8. Bake for another 10 minutes or until crispy. 9. Optional: sprinkle parmesan cheese or other toppings on the chips while they are still warm. Tips: It is easy to dry kale using a clean dishcloth or paper towels by placing the leaves on the towel then rolling them up, squeezing them dry. Dry kale makes crispier chips.

Gram for gram, kale has more than twice the vitamin C as an orange!

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edible chicago | Winter 2013-2014

Illustration © John T Takai/Shutterstock.com


Chicago’s established Farm to Table Resource for Fresh Local Markets, Savory Recipes, Garden Tips, Healthful Ingredients, and Spectacular Seasonal Ideas!

We share the stories about our region’s farmers, chefs, artisans and small batch drink makers. Give the Gift of Wholesome Local Foods.

SUBSCRIBE for a Friend this Holiday! Visit & SUBSCRIBE at www.ediblechicago.com

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Liquid Assets

A Cup of Cheer from the Punch Bowl Nothing says party like the words “punch bowl”. From the 17th century to the present day, punch has gone in and out of fashion. Back in the 1970’s, punch recipes called for canned fruit juice, soda pop, and as much rum or gin as Aunt Mary would dare to add.

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And, as anyone who has gone to a “punch bowl” party knows, there is good punch and there is bad punch. Creating the perfect recipe can be elusive. Fortunately punch, like the craft cocktail, has been elevated and is now loaded with great taste and lots

of style. It is the new favorite party guest. Want to wow friends and family this holiday season? Just whip up a batch, or three, of these spirited recipes and raise a cup of cheer to the party punch bowl.


Brandy Apple Punch Based on a 3-ounce pour, this recipe makes about 25 servings Recipe courtesy of chow.com 1 cup cranberries (about 4 ounces), thawed if frozen 1½ cups water ¼ cup packed dark brown sugar 3 cups apple cider or apple juice 3 cups brandy

¾ cup maple syrup 1 large Granny Smith apple, thinly sliced, for garnish Handful of cranberries, for garnish Ice

1½ cups freshly squeezed lemon juice (from about 15 lemons) 1.

Place cranberries, ¼ cup of the water, and the brown sugar in a large bowl and mash with a potato masher until the cranberries are completely smashed and the brown sugar has dissolved slightly.

2. Add the remaining 1¼ cups water, apple cider or juice, brandy, lemon juice and maple syrup and stir vigorously until well combined and the sugar has completely dissolved. Pour the mixture through a strainer set over a 10-cup pitcher and discard the solids left in the strainer. Chill for at least 1 hour, or until cold. 3. If desired, transfer the mixture to a punch bowl and top with apple slices and cranberries. To serve, pour 3 ounces of the punch into a highball glass filled with ice. Garnish with a thin slice of apple.

Photo © Ingrid Balabanova/shutterstock.com

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Uncle Angelo’s Eggnog Punch Adapted from The Craft of the Cocktail 6 eggs, separated ¾ cup sugar 1 quart milk 1 pint cream (substitute fresh apple cider) 6 ounces bourbon 6 ounces spiced rum 1 whole nutmeg, for grating 1. Beat the egg yolks well until they turn light in color, adding ½ cup of the sugar as you beat. Add the milk, cream, and liquor. 2. In separate bowl, beat the egg whites with the remaining sugar until they peak. Fold the whites into the mixture. Grate the fresh nutmeg over the drink. Eggs are safe for beverage use if they are handled properly: Mix the egg with the spirit before adding the other ingredients, and if you handle the eggshells, wash your hands before handling the other ingredients. Reprinted with permission from: The Craft of the Cocktail: Everything You Need to Know to Be a Master Bartender, with 500 Recipes by Dale DeGroff, © 2011 Clarkson Potter. 

Editor’s Note:

“Uncle Angelo always had two bowls of eggnog at Christmas, one for the kids and one for the grown-ups. What made the recipe special was its lightness: twice as much milk as cream and the white of the egg whipped stiff and folded into the mix, so it was almost like clouds on top of the eggnog.

To make your holiday eggnog local and organic we recommend organic or cage free eggs from your local market or fresh eggs from your favorite farmer. Also organic milk and cream or locally produced Kilgus Milk. Artisan spirits we like for this recipe: Corsair Spiced flavored Rum, Journeyman Featherbone Bourbon Whiskey, or Buff alo Trace Kentucky Bourbon Whiskey.

— Dale DeGroff, mixologist and author

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edible chicago | Winter 2013-2014

Photo © sarsmis/shutterstock.com


presents

Coming to PBS Television in Winter 2013 Check Your Local Listings or go to ediblefeast.com

www.ediblecommunities.com

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THE edible SOURCE GUIDE With Your Dine and Drink Local Listing The edible Source Guide is a condensed listing of advertisers in this issue. Please support these fine businesses and eating establishments as they help grow and sustain Edible Chicago. For a more extensive listing on each advertiser, visit us online at ediblechicago.com.

D I N E + D R I N K LOC AL Listings in green with the green fork logo are certified by the Green Chicago Restaurant Coalition and are committed to sustainable practices.

Autre Monde Café & Spirits Western Suburb/Berwyn Michelin Star rated for 2014. Mediterranean focused with a fresh, seasonal menu using local purveyors as well as an old world focused wine list. Artisan cocktails inspired by small batch producers. 6727 W. Roosevelt, Berwyn; 708-775-8122; Autremondecafe.net

Bar Pastoral Lakeview From the founders of Pastoral Artisan Cheese, Bread & Wine, this is an authentic, intimate and relaxed neighborhood bistro. 2947 N. Broadway; barpastoral.com

Kingsbury Street Café Lincoln Park

Sopraffina Marketcaffè Downtown

American with Asian fusion, local and seasonal menu. Pastries, breads made in house daily. 1523 N. Kingsbury St.; 312-280-1718; kingsburystreetcafe.com

Fresh Italian foods expertly prepared and served to urban professionals seeking a high quality dining experience with fast food timing. All food prepared in an environmentally sustainable way. Meats are 100% antibiotic free. 312-550-3333; sopraffi na.com

Terzo Piano Loop Located in the Modern Wing of the Art Institute, open for lunch and Sunday brunch. Locally sourced light plates, flatbread, salads and pizzas. Craft cocktails and wine list. 312-443-8659; terzopianochicaago.com

Five Chicago locations: 175 West Jackson AON Center 200 E. Randolph 10 North Dearborn One Illinois Center 111 E. Wacker Dr. Franklin Center 222 W. Adams St. 675 N. St Clair St.

NAHA River North

Uncommon Ground Edgewater & Wrigleyville

Seasonal, American cuisine with infl uences of the Medeterranian. Fine dining. 500 N. Clark St.; 312-321-6242; naha-chicago.com

Local, seasonal, organic menu and beverages. Weekly entertainment, Devon location; summer farmers market and certified organic rooftop garden. Edgewater: 1401 W. Devon Ave.; 773-465-9801 Wrigleyville: 3800 N. Clark St.; 773-929-3680 uncommonground.com

Big Bowl Downtown and Suburban Locations

Osteria Via Stato River North

Chinese Thai Food/Asian Fusion. Freshest ingredients, authentically prepared. Local farmer supported.

Seasonally prepared, locally sourced Italian dishes and fine wines. 620 N. State St.; 312-642-8450; osteriaviastato.com

Four Chicagoland locations: 6 E. Cedar St., Chicago 60 E. Ohio St., Chicago 215 Parkway Dr., Lincolnshire 1950 E. Higgins Rd., Schaumburg bigbowl.com

Piccolo Sogno West Loop

Duke’s Alehouse & Kitchen Suburban North

Sandwich Me In Lakeview

Pasture raised, heritage turkey from a sustainable Illinois farm. Chicago pick-up points. Meat available for your holiday menu: 217-762-7767; cavenyfarm.com

Farm-to-table sourced, local and organic American menu, over 150 craft beers. Also, a vegetarian menu. Easy trip from Chicago on the Metra train. 110 N. Main St., Crystal Lake; 815-356-9980; thedukeabides.com

Quick service sandwich shop using local meats and fresh produce with an emphasis on sustainability. Event catering is also available. 3037 N. Clark St.; 773-348-3037; sandwichmeinchicago.com

Heartland Meats

Cicchetti Streeterville Italian for “small bites”, Cicchetti showcases sustainably produced Midwestern food and spirits in an Italian/ Meditteranean context. 661 N. St. Clair; 312-0787-1096; cicchettirestaurant.com

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edible chicago | Winter 2013-2014

Fresh, seasonal rustic Italian fare, house-made pastas. Award winning summer patio. 464 N. Halsted St.; 312-421-0077; piccolosogno.com

Signature Room on the 95th Gold Coast Fresh, seasonal menu with a dazzling skyline view. Dinner, brunch and private event space. Celebrating 20 years of fi ne dining. 875 N. Michigan Ave.; 312-787-9596; signatureroom.com

FA R M S , O R C H A R D S + C S A SHARE PROGRAMS SERVICING C H I C AG O L A N D Each farm listed is local and family owned and operated.

Caveny Farm Heritage Poultry

All natural USDA Piedmontese beef raised without the use of added hormones. 815-538-5326; heartlandmeats.com

Jake’s Country Meats Pasture raised, natural pork without antibiotics. Order your holiday meat soon. 269-445-3020; jakescountrymeats.com

Photo © Irene van der Meijs/shutterstock.com


Lehman’s Family Orchards

Phoenix Bean

Green Grocer Chicago

Multi-generational family run orchard in Niles, Michigan. Locally grown seasonal fruit, dried fruit and specialty food products. Gift box products available for online shipping. 269-683-9078; lehmansorchard.com

Locally crafted fresh soy products. All natural tofu. Non-GMO soybeans. 773-784-2503; phoenixbean.com

West Town neighborhood market specialty store featuring organically grown and locally produced food products and specialty items. Independently owned and operated. Tastings and events. 312-624-9508; greengrocerchicago.com

Mint Creek Farm 100% grass fed lamb, goat, beef and veal. Several Meat CSA, Milk and Egg CSA Share Programs with Chicagoland deliveries. 815-256-2202; mintcreekfarm.com

Artizone.com home delivers artisan products from the best producers and purveyors in the Chicago area (including Green Grocer Chicago, Pasta Puttana, Bang, Bang Pie and many more). For more information and ordering, please visit: artizone.com

FA R M E R S M A R K E T S

Emerald Avenue Co-Op

Chicago Green City Market Year-round farmers market in Chicago, supporting local growers and artisans. 773-880-1266; chicagogreencitymarket.org

FOOD CO-OP + DISTRIBUTION

Artizone

A collection of family-owned farms, wineries and small businesses based in Southwest Michigan. Open for visits and servicing Chicago. theEmeraldavenue.com

Irv & Shelly’s Fresh Picks FINE DINING CLU BS

Chicago Gourmets Membership club where guests enjoy fine dining at some of Chicago area’s hottest restaurant establishments. 708-383-7543; chicagourmets.org FOOD PRODUCTS

Burton’s Maplewood Syrup Family run Indiana farm producing 100% Grade A and B pure maple syrup, no preservatives, for consumer and wholesale markets. Available for purchase online. Also Home of the National Maple Syrup Festival each March. 812-525-2663; burtonsmaplewoodfarm.com

Jeni’s Ice Cream The real deal. Ice cream, sorbet, frozen yogurt using grass grazed Ohio cream and carefully sourced ingredients many local, including fair trade vanilla and bean-to-bar chocolate. Available online for home delivery or at Chicago’s retail store. 614-488-3224; jenis.com

Ludwig Farmstead Creamery Award winning, fifth generation Illinois family farm producing artisan farmstead cheeses. 855-583-9443; ludwigfarmsteadcreamery.com

Local owners Irv & Shelly offer fresh, local and organic foods from over 100 Midwest farmers. Home and business delivery year-round in the Chicago and Milwaukee areas. Custom ordering with no commitment. 847-410-0595; freshpicks.com GARDEN

Octopot by Octopot Gardens Feeds & waters plants on demand without electric. Conserves water. 855-Octopot; octopotgardens.com PET FOOD

Raw Bistro Dog Fare From local farm to bowl. Farm-crafted fresh, grass fed, free-range treats and bones for your pet. 507-263-5959; rawbistro.com

Provenance Food and Wine Independently owned specialty food store with two locations in Lincoln Square and Logan Square. Specializing in affordable locally produced, small batch food and wine, beer and spirits. In store demos and special events. 773-384-0699 or 773-784-2314. Mention Edible Chicago for an in store 10% discount. provenancefoodandwine.com

Plum Market Specialty store in Old Town featuring the finest local, organic and all natural products in a full-service shopping experience. 312-229-1400; plummarket.com S U S TA I N A B L E L I V I N G + R E A L E S TAT E

D. MottL Realty Group Premiere properties and building sites in Southwest Michigan. Your new vacation home awaits you. Independently owned and operated. 269-591-0035; dmottl@aol.com

Tryon Farm A Michigan City, Indiana real estate development. Unique, affordable and environmentally friendly homes on a 170-acre former dairy farm. Homes surround protected land. 800-779-6433; tryonfarm.com B E V E R AG E D I S T R I B U TO R S

SERVICES

Bonterra Organic Vineyards

Country Financial

Growing wine organically and sustainably vineyards that encourage biodiversity. Sold at fine specialty food shops and wine club available. bonterra.com

Insures your car, home and family. Also a proud presenting sponsor of the Chicago Farmers Markets and the annual Country Chef challenge. 866-268-6879; countryfinancial.com S P E C I A LT Y R E TA I L S T O R E S

Dirk’s Fish & Gourmet Shop Chicago’s premiere sustainable fish and seafood shop. Eat in or pick up. Events, weekly demos and cooking classes. 773-404-3475; dirksfish.com

Virtue Cider A Michigan-based craft cider company. Partnering with local family run farms to to find the highest quality heirloom apples for ciders. Available in retail and restaurant locations around Chicago. 773-868-6878; virtuecider.com

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Premiere properties and building sites in Southwest Michigan

SERENITY CALLING Park Like | Picturesque | Rug Lake Views, approx. 12ac | 435k

BUILDABLE FRONTAGE Quiet Lake | Exclusive Beach | 49k

WATERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S EDGE LIVING Gated Community | Pool | Walking Trails | 399k

VINTAGED STUCCO BEAUTY City Charmer | 3 beds, 2 baths | Hardwood Flooring | 92K

BED & BREAKFAST OPPORTUNITY or Historic 1905 Family Home | Beautiful throughout | 2.8ac | 225k

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60 ACRES WOODS AND WATER Tillable| Private Lake | Great Elevation for New Home | Canoe-Fish

35 ACRE EXCLUSIVE LAKE 240 Acres of Woods, Encompasses Private Lake Estate Property | Hunt-Fish | Water Sports

ST. JOE RIVER FRONTAGE 700 Ft. of river frontage | Lake Chapin Access | Tillable-Wooded-Hunting | 289k

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FRONT ST. IN DOWAGIAC 2-Story Brick | 13000 SqFt | Historic Dowagiac | 180K

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258 E . F R ON T ST. | B U C H A NA N, M I | 2 6 9 - 5 9 1 - 0 0 3 5


Local Talent We’ve made Local Bakehouses our business. Every day in our store you’ll find freshly baked selections from Vanille, Eli’s Cheesecake, Crumb, Red Hen, Butter Bella, Defloured, Chicago Diner, Glazed & Infused, Carol’s Cookies, West Town, and Zayna Bakes... Just to name a few!

Plum Market Old Town

Natural, Organic, Specialty, and a ton of Local products in a full-service shopping experience.

1233 North Wells St Red Line at Clark/Division Chicago, IL 60610 Tel: 312.229.1400

Store Hours: 8am - 10pm Everyday

Edible Chicago Magazine | Winter 2014 | No 22  

Sweet Pea Media, LLC

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