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Illinois Ribeye

Illinois Squash Iowa Cheese

Midwest Meals

Michigan Apples

Grilled Ribeye 2 (1 inch thick) grass-fed, bone-in ribeye steaks from Q7 Ranch 1 tablespoon Standard Market steak dust Preheat grill to medium high heat. Remove steaks from refrigerator and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Sprinkle evenly with Standard Market steak dust on both sides. Grill steaks on each side for 4–6 minutes for medium rare.

Butternut Squash Gratin 1 small butternut squash 8 oz Prairie Rose swiss style cheese For garnish: microgreens Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Peel butternut squash. Cut squash in half widthwise, separating the bulbous part from the long, thinner part. Set aside the bulbous part for another use. Using the long, thinner part, cut the squash into 1/8 inch thick slices. Using a sharp 2 1/2 inch cookie cutter, cut 12 rounds out of the sliced squash. Slice Prairie Rose swiss blend into 1/8 thick slices. Using the same cookie cutter, cut 12 rounds out of the cheese slices. Grease a small sheet pan or baking dish. Beginning with a layer of butternut squash, create two stacks by alternating butternut squash slices and Prairie Rose slices. End with a layer of Prairie Rose. Bake for 30 minutes until squash is tender and the cheese is melted on top. Garnish with microgreens.

Apple Reduction 1 cup apple cider vinegar 1 cup beef demi-glace 1 /4 cup diced apples Add all ingredients to a small saucepan and place over medium heat. Bring to a boil, and simmer until mixture is reduced by half. Serve atop or alongside ribeye steaks.

Caramelized Cipollini Onions 6 cipollini onions 2 tablespoons Kalona butter 2 tablespoons dried currants 1 teaspoon LocalFolks stone ground mustard 2 tablespoons Madeira 1 teaspoon cane sugar For garnish: small mint leaves Heat a sauté pan over medium high heat. Melt butter in the sauté pan and add cipollini onions. Cook until onions are tender and caramelized. Add currants, mustard, Madeira, and cane sugar, and cook for 2 minutes more. Garnish with small mint leaves. 333 East Ogden Avenue Westmont, Illinois 60559 standardmarket.com


fall harvest 2012

CONTENTS Seasonal Recipes 06 Old-Fashioned Turkey Frame Soup 09 Mix and Match Cookies 10 Poached Pears with Whipped Cream Filling and Chocolate Ganache 11 Seasonal Pumpkin Bread 17 Pear, Fennel, and Black Walnut Salad 17 Black Walnut Pumpkin Pie 18 Grandma Henrietta’s Black Walnut Lemon Pound Cake 25 Maple Whiskey Crisp Cupcake 36 Pumpkin-Salt Cod Soup

02 FOOD FOR THOUGHT Editors’ Welcome

04 NOTABLE EDIBLE Go Local for your pasture-raised turkey and holiday meats

08 COOKING WITH THE SEASONS Baking Holiday Treats By Dana Benigno

12 LOCAL and IN SEASON 14 Fall Foraging: Go NUTS! By Terra Brockman

21 CALENDAR OF EVENTS 22 INCREDIBLY EDIBLE  Guilty Pleasurez Cocktail Cupcakes: Sinfully Good By Anne Spiselman Photographs by Kaitlyn McQuaid

26 FROM THE GOOD EARTH  Oriana’s Orchard: The Fruits of Her Labor Story and Photographs by Monica Kass Rogers

29 ChicaGROWS  Fresh Moves: Produce on Wheels Story and Photographs by Judith Nemes

Cover: Photo by Grant Kessler/GrantKessler.com. Above: Photo© Ejwhite/shutterstock.com

32 THE LAKE EFFECT  The Boka Restaurant Group: Farm-to-Fork Chefs By Amelia Levin Photographs by Grant Kessler

37 LIQUID ASSETS Illinois Produced Wines for the Holidays

38 THE EDIBLE SOURCE GUIDE With Your Drink and Dine Local Listing

40 EDIBLE INK: FRUITCAKE Original Illustration by Bambi Edlund

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Food for Thought

PUBLISHER/CO-EDITORS Sweet Pea Media, LLC: Ann Flood + Becky Liscum

a few words from edible chicago According to the sages, experience is the best teacher. That adage is especially true in farming. The unpredictable and unusual weather this spring and summer devastated the fruit crop. One Michigan farmer lamented that an orchard that usually produces 1,400 bushels of Honeycrisp apples a year, this year only generated 200. There was no surplus this summer—a scarce supply of apple cider for sale at the local farmers markets and fewer apple pies on our tables. What was a hardship for the farmers became a teachable moment for the consumer— to make the best of what is available, including “seconds” (the fruit that isn’t perfect looking yet still has the flavor). Consumers this year learned, just as generations before us have done when faced with a lean harvest, do the best with what you’ve got. And we do mean the best! Check out the recipe for a very special Black Walnut cake in our In Season column. Read about how this recipe has been handed down for generations and the story behind it. For some, baking is nostalgic, for others, baking is a whole new experience. In Cooking With the Seasons see how to mix and match ingredients to create a special batch of cookies to give away this holiday season. And, while we have you in the kitchen, check out Incredibly Edible for a local twist on a guilty pleasure: cupcakes with a kick. We begin with fruit and we end with fruit. In From the Good Earth, read the inspiring story about The Pear Lady, Oriana Kruszewski, who taught herself the art of grafting, and after many years of persistence and experimentation, created a marvel—literally the fruits of her labor. Experience is the best teacher. This harvest season, consumers got a glimpse into the challenging life of the farmer and learned not to take anything for granted. And, we learned how to make the best of a bad situation—reinvent our approach to cooking, revitalize our recipes, and reexamine how to improve things in the future. Read on…

The Perfect Holiday Gift! Subscribe to Edible Chicago and never miss a single issue with pristine copies delivered right to your door! Subscribe for yourself, or as a thoughtful gift for one of your favorite foodies. It’s a gift that will last all year. Subscribe online at: www.ediblechicago.com, or mail a check for $28.00 payable to: Edible Chicago, 159 N. Marion St., #306, Oak Pak, IL 60301. Edible Chicago is supported by our advertisers and subscribers. With your paid subscription, you help support our mission by telling the stories of our local farmers, chefs, growers, and food artisans.

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edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012

Photo © pixelfabrik/shutterstock.com

COPY EDITOR Debra Criche Mell

ART DIRECTOR Marianna Delinck Manley

WEB DESIGN Andras Ratonyi

CONTRIBUTORS Dana Benigno + Terra Brockman + Bambi Edlund Ann Flood + Amelia Levin + Becky Liscum Judith Nemes+Monica Kass Rogers Anne Spiselman

PHOTOGRAPHERS Grant Kessler + Kaitlyn McQuaid Monica Kass Rogers + Judith Nemes

EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Kaitlyn McQuaid

VIDEOGRAPHY Sweet Pea Media, LLC

ADVERTISING INQUIRIES 708.386.6781 | ads@ediblechicago.com

ADVERTISING SALES Jeannie Boutelle: jeannie@ediblechicago.com Donna Schauer: donna@ediblechicago.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS www.ediblechicago.com | info@ediblechicago.com

CONTACT US

Edible Chicago 159 N. Marion St., #306, Oak Park, IL 60301 708.386.6781 + Fax: 708.221.6756 info@ediblechicago Edible Chicago ® is published seasonally— four times per year by Sweet Pea Media LLC/dba Edible Chicago. We are an advertiser and subscriber supported publication, locally and independently owned and operated and a member of Edible Communities, Inc. Distribution is throughout Chicago land and by subscription for $28.00 per year. @2012 All Rights Reserved. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and let us know.


The flour that will

CHANGE YOUR MIND ABOUT FLOUR If you want breads that rise higher, cakes that are moister and pie crusts that are flakier, then the brand of flour you choose definitely matters. Start at the Heart Only the innermost heart of the wheat berry makes it into our all-purpose flour, leaving the lightest color and richest, gluten-producing protein.

Grown in the United States

We use only wheat grown by American farmers. Meet some who are as picky as we are in our online videos.

Consistently Delicious Baking

No surprises with our flour because the quality and consistency of the protein are always just right.

We’re dedicated to the

PURE JOY of BAKING! Read our blogs, start a discussion and find tested recipes on our website.

KingArthurFlour.com recipes, baking tips and more

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Notable Edible

Pasture-Raised Poultry What is “pasture-raised” poultry? “Pasture-raised poultry” refers to the production system that raises poultry directly on pasture. This model has been developed over the last 20 years. The birds receive up to 30% of their food intake from pasture forage and bugs. This is important for their health and the nutritional value of their meat and eggs. Typically, this model is found only on small farms; it doesn’t lend itself well to large commercial operations.

Why is pasture-raised chicken/turkey healthier? When compared to large-scale commercially raised birds, pasture raised poultry has: • • • •

Less total fat Less saturated fat Less cholesterol Fewer calories

• More vitamin A • More omega-3 fatty acids • Fresh tastes best

(Source: Pasture Perfect by Jo Robinson)

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edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012

Photo © © Bochkarev Photography/Shutterstock.com


THANKSGIVING TURKEYS Arnold Farm Large Broad-breasted White turkeys. No hormones or antibiotics, and using sustainable farm practices. Other meats: pasture grain finished beef, pork, and lamb. Pick up locations in the Chicago-area between Elgin and the Loop. Also farm pick up in Elizabeth, Illinois. (815) 858-2407 • arnoldsfarm.com

Gunthorp Farms Broad-breasted White. No hormones or antibiotics, non-GMO feed, processed on-site in LaGrange, Indiana. Also available chicken, ducks, pork. (260) 367-2708 • gunthorpfarms.com Ordering and pick up at the Fresh Picks warehouse, Niles, Illinois (847) 410-0595 • freshpicks.com

Caveny Farm Bourbon Red (Heritage breed) turkeys. Rouen Ducks available in December. Chicago area pick up locations including Geneva Green Market. Farm pick up also available at the farm in Monticello, Illinois.

Mint Creek Farm Broad-breasted White pasture-raised turkeys. No GMOs. Also organic pastureraised lamb, beef, goat, veal, chicken and pork. Thanksgiving turkeys delivered to Chicago’s Green City Market. Also available for home delivery via UPS.

(217) 762-7767 • cavenyfarm.com

(815) 953-5682 • mintcreekfarm.com

Garden Gate Farm Broad-breasted White, pasture-raised turkeys, supplemented with a hormone-free feed. Sustainable farming practices. Farm pick up only in Fairbury, Illinois.

Slagel Family Farm Natural hormone-free beef, pork, lamb, chicken, duck, rabbit and goat. Turkeys available during the holidays. Farm pick up and weekly Chicago area drop off locations.

Ordering: bethrink@hotmail.com • (815) 692-3518

(815) 848-9385 • slagelfamilyfarm.com

TJ’s Free Range Poultry Broad-breasted White, pastured free-range turkeys. Raised on chemical-free grass and no antibiotics in Piper City, Illinois. Also offering chicken. Available at Chicago’s Green City Market. tji4@maxwire.net • (815) 686-9200

Triple S Farms Broad-breasted White turkeys. Certified organic, no hormones, antibiotics or GMO feed from Stewardsville, Illinois. (217) 343-4740 • triplesfarms.com

Several Chicago locations for pick up including Chicago area home delivery by Irv & Shelly’s Fresh Picks. (847) 410-0595 • freshpicks.com

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Old-Fashioned Turkey Frame Soup

Makes 5 Quarts. Adapted from Monica Kass Rogers, LostRecipesFound.com Turkey carcass, broken up to fit into a large soup pot

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce (optional)

Water to cover carcass—at least 4 quarts

1 ½ teaspoons salt

3 small potatoes, peeled and diced

1 tablespoon fresh snipped parsley, chopped fine

4 large carrots, peeled and chopped 2 celery ribs, chopped 1 large onion, chopped 1 to 2 cups rough-chopped cabbage 1 can tomatoes, drained and chopped (optional) 1 cup uncooked pearled barley

3 to 4 fresh basil leaves, snipped fine 1 bay leaf ½ teaspoon pepper ¼ teaspoon paprika ¼ teaspoon poultry seasoning 1 fresh thyme sprig

1. P  lace turkey carcass in large soup pot. Cover carcass with water and heat water to boiling. Cover, reduce heat and simmer for 2 hours. 2. Lift turkey bones out of pot, cool, and pick off any meat. Chop the meat and reserve. Throw away the bones. 3. Strain broth through a fine sieve. Clean soup pot. Pour broth back into pot and add turkey meat and raw chopped vegetables and herbs, tomatoes and barley. Simmer for another hour until vegetables are tender and barley is cooked. Remove bay leaf and thyme sprig. Salt and pepper to taste. Stir in Worcestershire sauce, if using. 4. Serve hot soup with crusty bread and cheese.

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edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012

Photo © Straga/Shutterstock.com


HOLIDAY MEATS Hasselmann Family Farm Humanely raised pork, beef, lamb, chicken raised in a natural environment. Available at Chicago area markets including Geneva Green Market.

Jake’s Country Meats Natural, artisanal pork, raised without antibiotics from Cass County, Michigan and serving the Chicago area. Holiday country hams, pork roasts, sausages. (269) 445-3020 •

(847) 525-3590 • hasselmannfarm.com

jakescountrymeats.com

Heartland Meats Piedmontese beef rasied humanely in Mendota, Illinois without use of added hormones. Roasts, steaks, soup bones, ground beef and specialty meats. Available in Chicago at Green City Market and Dill Pickle Coop. 877-588-LEAN • heartlandmeats.com

Availability may vary. Information is accurate at press time.

Twin Oak Meats High quality hormone-free pork products and special order hams from Fairbury, Illinois. Chicago land delivery available. (815) 692-4215 • twinoaksmeats.com

Westtstein Organic Farm Whole legs of lamb, pork, beef, chicken. Certified organic from Carlock, Illinois. Winter meat deliveries at The Buzz in Oak Park, Illinois. (309) 376-7291 • wettsteinorganicfarm. wordpress.com

As fresh and local as it gets Join us for a day of exploration and discovery at our Artisans’ Market. We’re supporting the local food community by showcasing growers and specialty food producers in our stores. Visit our featured stores for details: Williams-Sonoma Deer Park Town Center Williams-Sonoma Michigan Avenue Williams-Sonoma Oakbrook Center

Edible Pub Natalie Behmlander

Cheese_Hero_0150.tiff Artmarket_white.ai WS Logo white.ai Size Trim:

Gotham New Century Schoolbook cmyk

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3.7


Cooking With the Seasons by Dana Benigno

When the weather turns chilly, it’s time to start thinking about comfort food and special meals. Do you know what you’re serving for the holidays? Plan your meals using fresh, seasonal ingredients. Don’t let your menu choices be guided by what the retail marketers tell you to buy. In my experience, I find most home cooks are stumped by what to make for their holiday desserts. Baking is often relegated to a back burner because our day to day focus is on what’s for dinner. To make dessert planning easier, every cook should have three items in their baking repertoire: a great cookie recipe that they can customize, a sweet bread that can be sliced and served for breakfast or brought to a holiday brunch, and one “fancy” dessert that looks gorgeous, but is easy to prepare.

holiday treats Something custom, something sweet and something simple but showy. 8

edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012

Here are my favorites:

• Custom Cookies

• Seasonal Pumpkin Bread

• Poached Pears with Whipped Cream Filling and Chocolate Ganache

Custom Cookies I developed this recipe a few years ago so I could experiment with new flavor combinations and garnishes. The recipe starts with an oatmeal cookie dough base that you can customize using a variety of ingredients like dried fruits, nuts, spices, or chocolate chips. Experiment and use your imagination to create a custom cookie for your family or create one for a friend based on their favorite flavors and ingredients. Wouldn’t it be fun to give someone special a cookie created just for them, with their own recipe and customized name like “Oatmeal Charolettes” or “Chocolate Charlies”?

Photo left © Jordache/shutterstock.com Photo right © Mady70/shutterstock.com


Mix and Match Cookies: The Baker’s Choice

Dried Fruit Cherries, Currants, Raisins, Cranberries,

Makes 2 Dozen

Apricots (chopped).

Start with this basic batter then choose different combinations from list below. One recipe, dozens of different cookies.

Nuts

¾ cup granulated sugar

Macadamia Nuts, Candied nuts.

1 cup brown sugar 2 sticks salted butter (1 cup)

Pecans, Walnuts, Peanuts, Almonds,

Organic Chips Semi-sweet chocolate chips, Peanut butter

2 eggs, beaten

chips, Milk chocolate chips, White chocolate

1 tablespoon vanilla

chips, Toffee pieces.

1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking soda 2 cups oatmeal (if you want to omit the oatmeal, increase the flour to 2 ¼ cups total) 2 cups dried fruit, or 12 ounces organic c hocolate chips or if you prefer both, 1 cup of dried fruit and 6 ounces of chips

Sources for Fruits, Nuts and Chips When it is time to shop for your cookie ingredients, you don’t have to resort to the supermarket for your fruit, nuts and chocolate chips. Organic chocolate chips are available year round in small specialty

1 cup chopped nuts (see options)

stores or can be ordered online. And,

1. Preheat the oven to 350°.

check your local farmers markets or winter

2. In a large bowl, cream butter and sugar until smooth. Add eggs and beat until smooth. Add vanilla and blend until combined.

and dried fruit. Although the 2012 fruit crop

3. In a separate bowl, sift flour and baking soda together. Add oatmeal to the flour and combine. Add dry ingredients into wet ingredients and stir until just incorporated. 4. S  tir in the combination of your choice: fruit, nuts, chips and/or candy. 5. D  rop spoonfuls of dough onto a greased cookie sheet. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes until golden brown. Let cool for 4 to 5 minutes before removing from cookie sheet. Serve or store in an airtight container. Tip: For fresh baked cookies on demand, dough can be chilled in the refrigerator and then formed into a roll. Wrap in plastic wrap and parchment paper and freeze. Slice ½ inch slices and bake homemade cookies any time.

produce markets for nuts as well as fresh suffered a couple of serious setbacks (a spring frost followed by a summer drought), the fruit that survived may be small in size, but high in sugar and flavor.

Local, organic flour is available from Breslin Farms in Ottawa, IL. For a complete listing of where to find their products: breslinfarms.com/purchase/

Local, organic oats are available from Three Sisters Farm in Kanakee, IL at Chicago’s Green City Market.

www. scrumptiouspantry. com www.ediblechicago.com

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Poached Pears with Whipped Cream Filling and Chocolate Ganache Serves 4 This recipe is nice because you can prepare it in advance and then just assemble it right before serving. Poach the pears until they are fork tender. Even if the pears are not perfectly ripe, the poaching is very forgiving. The sweet wine adds tang, the whipped cream filling is a fun surprise and who doesn’t love chocolate ganache? After all, ganache is fun to say, it’s delicious, and its glossy, dark chocolate surface looks like patent leather! Use a medium sized pear that will stand on its end easily like a Bosc or Anjou. If you want a small dessert, a Seckel pear is a good choice. Choose pears at the market that stand vertically. The pears do not have to be extremely ripe. 4 Bosc, Seckel or Anjou pears (1 per person) 4 cups water

½ cup sugar 1 cup sweet wine such as Riesling or Gewürztraminer

1. Peel the pears. Using a paring knife or the pointed end of a vegetable peeler, remove the core by cutting through the bottom of the pear. Leave the stem of the pear intact. 2. Place the water, sugar and wine in a pot large enough to hold all the pears and bring the liquid to a simmer. Once it is simmering turn the heat to low and place the pears carefully in the pot so they stand up. Place a lid on the pot and simmer for 30 minutes. 3. When the pears are done let them cool to room temperature in the liquid. Place in the refrigerator and store until ready to assemble the dessert. This can be done 1 day in advance.

Ganache 9 ounces of semi sweet chocolate

1 cup heavy cream

1. Place the chocolate chips in a heat safe bowl. 2. Place the cream in a saucepan and heat until it is simmering. Pour the simmering cream over the chocolate and whisk or stir until all the chocolate has melted. The sauce will be shiny and will thicken at room temperature.

Whipped Cream 1 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons powdered sugar

1. Chill a stainless steel bowl in the freezer until cold, then remove. Add cream and whip with a mixer or whisk until soft peaks form. Fold in the powdered sugar. Place the whipped cream in a pastry bag or zip lock bag and refrigerate.

Assembly 1. Remove the pears from the poaching liquid and place in a pan or on a cutting board. Snip the corner off of the zip lock bag or pastry bag and fill the core of each pear with whipped cream. 2. Place each pear on a dessert plate. Top with the chocolate ganache sauce (reserve some for drizzling) and refrigerate. Just before serving, heat the remaining ganache over a double bowler or in the microwave and add a little more to the pear before serving. 10

edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012

Photo © jabiru/shutterstock.com


Serves 4 A classic way to make this bread is to bake it in 14 ½ ounce cans. When the bread is removed from the can, it has a nice scalloped edge, which I call “practical fancy”. (Tip: take the bread out of the can before giving it as a gift). A traditional loaf pan works well too. Add your favorite dried fruits to the batter such as cranberries, dried cherries or even chocolate chips for some variety. 3 cups canned pumpkin puree 1 ½ cups vegetable oil 4 cups white sugar 6 eggs 4 ¾ cups all-purpose flour 1 ½ teaspoons baking powder 1 ½ teaspoons baking soda 1 ½ teaspoons salt 1 ½ teaspoons cinnamon 1 ½ teaspoons ground nutmeg ½ teaspoon ground cloves 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1. P  reheat the oven to 350°. Grease and flour three 9 x 5 inch loaf pans. In a large bowl, mix together the pumpkin, oil, sugar, and eggs. 2. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and ginger; stir into the pumpkin mixture until well blended. Divide the batter evenly between the prepared pans. 3. B  ake in preheated oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour. The top of the loaf should spring back when lightly pressed.

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LOCAL: RUSTIC ROAD FARM, PHOENIX TOFU, CRAFT BEER SUSTAINABLE: SEAFOOD, POST-CONSUMER BAGS

Pumpkin Bread

ECOFRIENDLY: ENVIRONMENTAL CLEANSERS, TO GO PACKAGING, PAPER STRAWS, RECYCLED UNIFORMS

NATURAL: CHICKEN, BEEF, PORK

ORGANIC: WINE, COFFEE, TEA Photo © Anna Hoychuk/shutterstock.com

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local and in season for fall harvest VEGETABLES

greens

Beets Broccoli Brussels Sprouts Burdock Root Carrots Cauliflower Celery Root Dry Beans Jerusalem Artichokes Leeks Parsley Root Parsnips Potatoes Pumpkins Radishes Varieties include Roseheart, Black, and Daikon Rutabagas Salsify Scallions Sweet Potatoes Winter Squash Turnips

Asian Greens Cabbage Cooking Greens Mustard, Turnip, Collard Salad Greens Spinach

fruit Apples Pears Western and Asian

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edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012

CULINARY HERBS Oregano Parsley Rosemary Sage Tarragon Thyme Mint Lemon Verbena

other Garlic Dried Onions Dried Hot Peppers Dried Dry Corn Popcorn, Cornmeal Wheat Berries Oats Horseradish

Photo Š mythja/shutterstock.com


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by Terra Brockman

From the Native Forest:

Go Nuts!

Every autumn, when the leaves and the temperatures drop, so do the wild nuts. And every year, the Black Walnuts take me by surprise. I inadvertently step on one, bruising its green husk so it releases its distinctive, sharp, almost citrus smell. This unmistakable aroma means one thing—the time for foraging wild nuts is here.

He’d crack a pie tin full, and then bring them upstairs to the kitchen and slowly extract the nuts from the crevices of their shells. They would then be stored in Mason jars until my grandmother used the nutmeats in cookies and breads, and of course in her famous Black Walnut Lemon Pound Cake.

For people who grew up with Black Walnuts, the aroma and taste are pure nostalgia. For me, it’s the memory of my grandfather picking up the nuts that fell from the big tree near the farmhouse. He gathered them up before the squirrels did, and then squirreled them away in the basement where he would make his way through the bushels all winter long.

Although the Black Walnut is related to the English Walnut and the Persian Walnut, it seems a breed apart—with a stronger, more complex combination of dark, smoky, earthy notes and sharp, fruity ones. And, it has a softer, denser texture than a regular walnut. Still, you can substitute Black Walnuts in any recipe calling for walnuts, although you may want to halve the amount because of the stronger flavor. My grandmother used the nuts exclusively in baked goods, but other popular uses include salads, vegetable dishes, rice dishes, meat dishes, and killer ice cream and fudge.

Black Walnuts have a strong, heavy shell that is notoriously hard to crack, but my grandfather did just fine placing the nuts on a big piece of steel on his workbench and using a hammer to crack them open. 14

edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012

Photo © Phillippou/shutterstock.com


Hickory nuts are another wild nut abundant in our autumn woods. I had never had Hickory nuts until a neighbor put some on top of her apple crisp one year. And then I wondered why it had taken me so long to taste a nut that was literally under foot each fall, embedded in its egg-shaped hull. Like the Black Walnuts, they can be a challenge to crack, but the prize inside is worth it. Hickory nuts taste something like a pecan, but richer and earthier. Black Walnuts and Hickory nuts are ubiquitous in the deciduous forests of the Midwest, and were an important food source for thousands of years—high in unsaturated fat and protein, easy to collect, process, and store for eating throughout the winter months. Nutrient-dense and delicious, they made sense then, and they make sense now. What could be more local than a nut native to this area, harvested from trees that grow without the slightest help from cultivation, let alone pesticides or fertilizer? And, what could be more fun than seeking out and processing your own nuts, free for the foraging? With the growing interest in local foods and selfsufficiency, more new farmers are planting nut trees as part of their diverse, sustainable farm operations. Andrea Vozar, a Central Illinois Farm Beginnings program graduate outlined her Black Walnut production schedule in her business plan for Go Nuts Orchard. The plan started with planting saplings in year one, beginning to harvest the first nuts in year five, reaping the bounty of full harvests in years 12 to 20, and then gradually harvesting some of the trees for their valuable lumber in years 60 and 70, with nut-bearing coming to an end in year 120. Yes, she had a 120-year business plan—something you don’t see every day—but a plan that takes the seventh generation into account is something that would have made the Iroquois very comfortable. So this year, look for a farmer or forager who harvests wild nuts. Or if you like the idea of gathering delicious food for free, ask around and you might be surprised to find Walnut and Hickory trees and their nuts nearby. Preparing wild nuts involves several steps: harvesting, hulling, cracking and storage. See the sidebar for a quick how-to, or find an old-timer to show you the ropes. Either way, you’ll have a great time going nuts. ec

With a long family tradition of farming and foraging in Central Illinois, Terra Brockman writes about her experience first hand. She is also the author of The Seasons on Henry’s Farm and is a regular contributor to Edible Chicago.

Celebrating “Conviviality of the Table” for 15 years throughout Chicagoland Join us! Upcoming events include: Oct. 28: Trattoria Roma with author Rebecca Ffrench Oct. 30: Carlton Club with Cake Boy Eric Lanlard Nov. 7: Table 52 with author Norman Van Aken Nov. 10: Cordon Bleu with chef Austin Yancey Jan. 13: Katherine Anne Confections Feb. 2: Medinah Country Club with chef Bryan Panico

Chicago Gourmets Visit chicagogourmets.org or call 312-777-1090 for more information.

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Where to Get Local Nuts Black Walnut and Hickory nuts grow throughout our Midwest forests, so foraging is quite easy if you keep your eyes open. If you don’t want to harvest your own, look for local nuts at your farmers markets. If you don’t find any, ask the farmers if any of them can forage some for you. If you can’t forage nuts in your own back yard, here are a couple Midwest sources from whom you can order:

Hickory Nuts. Linda Schaalma and her 90-someyear-old father, Ray Pamperin, forage wild Hickory nuts from their Shagbark Hickory trees in Dodge County, Wisconsin. www.rayshickorynuts.com Juneau, Wisconsin

Black Walnuts. Hammons Products of Missouri is the main producer and seller of Black Walnuts in the United States. They are family-owned, and buy Walnuts from foragers around the Midwest. www.black-walnuts.com Hammons Products, Stockton, Missouri

From Nuts on the Tree to Nuts on Your Dinner Table 1. Find the trees and pick up the nuts soon after they fall. The best time is after the first frost, but before December. Enlist children and the task will go faster and be more fun.

2. Hull them. Black Walnuts have an almost fluorescent green hull, full of tannins that will stain your hands. The hull is thick and tough, but it gets softer and darker as it ages. There are various hulling machines and advice on the internet, but I’ve found you can just stomp on the nuts to get it off.

3. Crack them. Native Americans made a divot in a rock to hold the nut, and hit it with another rock. That’s more or less what my grandfather did, substituting a hammer for one rock and a piece of steel for the other. Or you can invest in one of the contraptions invented to crack the hard shell. I must confess though, the $40 contraption I bought some years ago crushed the nuts into oblivion, and made it nearly impossible to get shell shard-free nutmeats.

4. Pick out the nuts and sort them. Once the shell is

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cracked, the nutmeats don’s just fall out in neat halves like they do from English Walnuts. They still have to be loosened and pried out. You can use a nut pick, a small screwdriver, or dental tools to do this. Once you have the nutmeats, you should sort through them carefully to get out any pieces of tooth-cracking shell.

5. Store. The nuts are full of oils which will get rancid if they are kept at room temperature, so use them right away, and store any extra in the freezer.

6. Use! Check out the following recipes, or substitute wild nuts for regular Walnuts or Pecans in your favorite recipes. — Terra Brockman

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edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012

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Pear, Fennel, and Black Walnut Salad ¼ cup Black Walnuts, toasted 4 cups fennel, cored and sliced ¼ cup white balsamic vinaigrette 1 large or 2 small pears, quartered and cut into thin slices 1 to 2 ounces goat cheese in small crumbles 1. P  lace walnuts, fennel, and vinaigrette in a mixing bowl, gently toss. 2. Arrange pears on four salad plates, Top with the fennel/walnut mixture, sprinkle goat cheese on top.

Vinaigrette ¾ cup olive oil ½ cup white balsamic vinegar 1½ tablespoons honey salt and pepper

Black Walnut Pumpkin Pie

Place ingredients in jar, cover with lid and shake vigorously.

1 pie crust (frozen or home-made)

1 package (8 oz.) cream cheese, softened

1¼ cups light brown sugar, firmly packed, divided

2 large eggs

1 cup Black Walnuts, finely chopped and toasted 3 tablespoons butter ¼ teaspoon vanilla 2 cups cooked pumpkin or butternut squash flesh

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground ginger ½ teaspoon ground allspice ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg Whipped cream (optional)

1. P  reheat oven to 350°. Put crust into a 9-inch pie plate; fold edges under and crimp. Bake for 6 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove from oven, let cool. 2. Increase oven temperature to 425°. Combine ½ cup light brown sugar, Black Walnuts, butter, and vanilla; spread on bottom of baked pie crust. 3. Beat pumpkin, cream cheese, eggs, and the remaining brown sugar at medium speed with an electric mixer. Add flour, cinnamon, ginger, allspice, and nutmeg, beating until blended, spoon pumpkin mixture over Black Walnut mixture in pie crust. 4. Bake in a preheated 425° oven for 15 minutes. Reduce temperature to 350°, and bake 30 minutes or until pie is set. Remove pie to a wire rack; cool. 5. Serve warm or chilled with whipped cream, if desired.

Photo left © 54613/shutterstock..com Photo right © Elena Elisseeva/shutterstock.com

www.ediblechicago.com

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From Fruits to Nuts: One Tough Season I love all trees—for their shapes and colors and sounds, for the fact that they are homes for songbirds, owls, and squirrels, for their shade and shelter, for their blossoms, and for their delicious fruits and nuts. This past year, fruit tree farmers had a terrible season, with an early warm spring causing the trees to blossom early in March and set fruit. But in April those tiny fruits were zapped by three consecutive cold nights in the 20s and the trees, which were laden with fruit, were suddenly barren. The entire Midwest crop of tree fruits was decimated. One source said the Michigan sour cherry crop produced only 1% of its usual yield—so thank goodness for the hardy Hickory and Black Walnut trees! They suffered the same large swings in temperature, but are more resistant to frost, and they do not all flower at the same time. This means that while some of their baby nuts dropped after the April freeze, others were fine, and the fruits of those trees (delicious, nutritious nuts) are things you can enjoy all winter long. — Terra Brockman

Grandma Henrietta’s Black Walnut Lemon Pound Cake

Recipe adapted by Chef Hoa Dong of Work of Art Cakes 1 1/3 cups chopped black walnuts, toasted

1 cup buttermilk

3 cups all purpose flour

1 ½ cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

½ teaspoon salt

2 ½ cups sugar

1 teaspoon baking soda

7 large eggs, separating yolks into individual cups or dishes

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 small lemon

½ teaspoon cream of tartar 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Grease 10 x 4 ¼ tube pan and dust with flour, shaking out any excess. 2. Toast chopped walnuts in oven for 5 minutes. 3. Combine flour, salt and baking soda into a sifter and sift into large mixing bowl. Top with lemon zest. 4. In a large bowl add buttermilk, butter and sugar and beat at medium speed until light and fluffy, approx. 2 minutes, scraping down the sides of bowl. Add egg yolks one at a time, beating 10 seconds after each addition. Add lemon juice. 5. Fold wet ingredients into dry ingredients until mixed. 6. In separate bowl, add egg whites and cream of tartar and whip until peaks form. 7. Fold the egg whites into batter. Gently fold nuts into batter. Turn batter into pan, smoothing surface. 8. Bake on middle rack or oven for 1¼ hours to 1 hour, 25 minutes, or until surface is nicely browned and springs back when lightly pressed and a toothpick inserted in thickest part comes out with just a few crumbs. Do not over bake. Transfer pan to wire rack and let cool completely, about 1 hour. Run a table knife around the tube and edges of pan until cake is loosened. Turn onto cake plate.

Lemon Glaze 1 ¼ cups powdered sugar (sift if lumpy)

1 ½ tablespoons hot water, plus more if needed

1 ½ tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

¼ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1. In a medium bowl, stir together powdered sugar, butter, hot water, and lemon zest and lemon juice until well blended. Let stand for 2 minutes. If mixture stiffens too much, thin with a little more hot water. 2. Smooth glaze over the cake with a table knife or pastry brush.

18

edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012

Photo © sea wave/shutterstock.com


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Fall 2012 Events

OCTOBER 1 – 31, Chicago and Nationwide Second Annual American Cheese Month

OCTOBER 24, Chicago and Nationwide It’s National Food Day

A month long celebration of one of America’s favorite food items: cheese! Events, demos, classes, pairings, dinners and opportunities to meet artisan cheesemakers. Visit Pastoralartisan.com for a detailed listing of Chicago events and Americancheesesociety.org.

Celebrate fresh, natural foods and a sustainable environment. Make a commitment to eat healthier. Learn more on how to participate and for information on local events: Foodday.org.

OCTOBER 1 – 31, Chicago and Nationwide National Seafood Month

Taste what you see on the screen! Watch documentaries, features and short films about our world’s favorite foods, while you eat food for a multi-sensory experience. Location and Tickets: Chicagofoodfilmfestival.com.

October is National Seafood Month, a time to highlight smart seafood choices, sustainable fisheries, and the health benefits of eating a diet rich in seafood.

OCTOBER 21, 3PM Heritage Prairie Farm, Geneva FamilyFarmed.org annual Autumn Harvest Supper fundraiser Top Chef alum Sarah Grueneberg and Chef Chris Marchino of Spiaggia will create dishes that highlight the season’s bounty from Heritage Prairie Farm and Seedling Fruit. Details and ticket purcase: familyfarmed.org/autumnharvest.

NOVEMBER 15-17, Chicago 3rd Annual Chicago Food Film Festival

NOVEMBER 28, 6-9PM High Dive Bar, Chicago Edible Chicago partners with Brooklyn Brewery for a FREE beer and local food tasting evening. Try the newest craft beer release, “There Will Be Black” paired with local food samplings from High Dive Bar, and our food partner Sandwich Me In, and many more coming soon! For information and RSVP: events@ediblechicago.com.

OCTOBER 21, 7-8:30PM Provenance Food & Wine (Logan Square) American Cheeses & French Wines That Love Them

WATCH the Chicago premiere of “Farmer Poet” featuring Mint Creek Farm’s Harry Carr. It’s an

In celebration of National Cheese Month, 5 carefully-curated pairings of American cheeses and French wines will be showcased. Tickets and info: Provenancefoodandwine.com.

official selection for this year’s Chicago Food Film Festival. Produced by Chicago’s Story Buzz Media. View the trailer at: ediblechicago.com.

Photo © Zaneta Baranowska/shutterstock.com

www.ediblechicago.com

21


Incredibly Edible Story by Anne Spiselman Photos by Kaitlyn McQuaid

Sinfully Good Cocktail Cupcakes Tracey Glover had never made a cake from scratch until she was in her early 40’s. But an idea to combine two of her loves, good cocktails and tasty cupcakes, prompted her to start Guilty Pleasurez Cocktail Cupcakes in 2010. She attributes her idea to divine inspiration which was prompted by her mother’s advice to “pray at night, and God will tell you what to do in the morning.” Glover’s mother and grandmother provided the cupcake recipes which she tweaked to create mini and regular-sized “alcoholic” and “virgin” versions of cupcakes, such as Bailey’s and Cream, Black and Tan, Vanilla Vodka, and Amaretto. At first, she just baked for family and friends. She brought cupcakes to her office at American Intercontinental University for her co-workers to sample and critique. When she got laid-off after six years in administration, she took it as a sign, and decided to turn her cupcake concoctions into a full-time business. 22

edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012

The first step—which was not an easy one— was to find a way to incorporate the alcohol into the cupcakes. “My early experiments were disgusting, and I went through a lot of liquor,” she recalls. “The strawberry with tequila was memorable—for its goopy icing.” The basic problem was you couldn’t taste the alcohol in the cake or icing without adding so much of it that the texture was ruined. Glover’s solution? Another divine inspiration—she developed fillings for the cupcakes flavored with the alcohol. The recipes, which are a trade secret, range from mild to strong. Originally, each cupcake she made was one of a kind and unique, but that became too time-consuming and it wasted a lot of product. So, she decided to produce just two basic cake flavors—vanilla and chocolate. There are a handful of exceptions: a red velvet cake, a Guinness cake (for the Black and Tan) and special holiday cakes like pumpkin spice. With the exception of the

cream cheese frosting for the red velvet cupcake, all the icings are buttercream, typically enhanced by the same spirits as the filling, and colorfully decorated. Glover explains, the process of creating a new flavor begins with her interpretation of the cocktail. “I think about where I want to put the flavor and how I want it to come through,” she explains. “For example, the Strawberry Margarita is all about the strawberries, so I’ll use fresh fruit marinated in lime and tequila. The Hypnotize Me cupcake features Hypnotic, because I liked the way the pretty blue color and subtle flavor come through.” Her most popular cupcake is the Bailey’s Chocolate and Caramel—caramel cake filled with chocolate caramel Bailey’s cream and topped with chocolate caramel Bailey’s buttercream icing. Vanilla Vodka, made with whole Madagascar vanilla beans, is


another top seller and the Amaretto cupcake is popular because it’s sweet and the alcohol isn’t overpowering. Cupcakes flavored with alcohol outsell the virgin, non-alcoholic cupcakes. Glover suspects people buy them because they want to figure out how she does it, plus they get a shot of liquor or liqueur. Running a cupcake bakery was a far cry from anything Glover had ever done before in life. She spent her childhood on the South Side of Chicago and then moved to South Carolina, Germany, California and eventually back to the Chicago area and Bolingbrook. She attended high school in Charleston, South Carolina, and after graduating she took a job as a server at the Olive Garden. She was also “a career college student off and on.” She changed schools and majors half-a-dozen times and studied everything from cosmetology and fashion design to business and technology. “I thought of college as preparation for what you were going to do for a living, but as I got closer to each degree, I realized that wasn’t what I wanted to do.” By the time she was 28, she’d been married for three years, had a three-year-old son, and was working as a server at the Mills House Hotel in Charleston. Not happy with her career path, Glover decided to enlist in the United States Army. “I thought the army would give me a career, a chance to travel and a way to complete my education,” she said. She chose to train as a medic, because she figured then she would always be able to find a job when her tour of duty was done—a job that wouldn’t involve a restaurant. In 1997, Glover was posted to Germany. Her husband and son joined her a couple of months later. Her duties in the army included certifying flight personnel as medically able to fly, training others in basic life-saving measures, and providing administrative support to doctors. She served in Kosovo and Macedonia during the war. When she returned to the United States, she was initially sent to a marine base. Sometime after, she was stationed at Fort Irwin, California. Although Glover re-enlisted on her return to the states, she soon opted out. While seven months pregnant with her daughter, she decided to move back to Charleston to be close to her mother and step-father. After six months as a stay-at-home mom, she went

Tracey Glover

back to work—as a server at Red Lobster and as an administrative assistant for the City Colleges of Chicago and helped the college establish a program at the Charleston Air Force Base. “I learned a lot, and after the other employee left, (I) ran the whole satellite program,” she says proudly. “But I wasn’t a salaried employee, because I didn’t have a degree, so I was earning $8 an hour.” When the City Colleges brought in a man to run the program, they had Glover train him, and then they paid him a salary. She was so angry she vowed to never let that happen to her again. So, Glover got not one, but two bachelor degrees: the first, in business with a concentration in human resources and development and, the second, in business administration with a concentration in project management. By 2007, she and her husband had separated, Glover moved back

to Chicago so her mother, who had recently relocated, could help her with the children. In spite of all her business education, Glover admits she didn’t formulate a business plan for Guilty Pleasurez Cocktail Cupcakes and she financed the new company entirely on her own. Working from a commercial kitchen, Glover continues to build her business little by little. She visits beauty salons and passes out mini cupcakes and hands out her eye-catching business card. She networks at events, participating in at least one charity function a month. “Each event nets me two or three customers,” she says, “and since I partnered with Stan Mansion, a special events venue in Logan Square, I’ve gotten a lot of bigger orders.” Most of her customers order online and make their selections from her website menu, although many ask to customize the colors. She estimates her monthly sales at www.ediblechicago.com

23


Exclusive Offer The Maple Whiskey Crisp Cocktail Cupcake, created exclusively for readers of Edible Chicago magazine will offered by special order for a limited time by Guilty Pleasurez. To order: 312-388-8875 or email: tracey@guiltypleasurezcupcakes.com

$1,500-$2,000 and thinks the business is on its way to becoming selfsustaining. Current revenues, however, are spent on new equipment, gas and other business expenses. Glover is always developing new flavors for her cupcakes and hopes to add full-size cakes to her repertoire, though they’ll probably be more traditional, without fillings and mostly virgin. She only makes small wedding cakes now. Her larger goal, however, is to have two retail storefronts, one in the city and the other in Bolingbrook or Naperville. But for now, Glover is delighted with all the positive feedback she’s received—her Facebook, “likes” have multiplied tenfold. Clearly, the cupcakes with a kick, created from scratch, and sparked by divine inspiration are one of life’s simple pleasures worth the guilt. For more information: www.guiltypleasurezcupcakes.com

ec

Anne Spiselman is a lover of all things sweet. She indulges Edible Chicago readers with her regular contributions while tasting her way through Chicagoland’s confectionary landscape.

Naha 500 NORTH CLARK STREET | CHICAGO 312 321 6242 WWW.NAHA-CHICAGO.COM 24

edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012

Time to order your meat for the holidays! Turkey, lamb, beef, pork, goat Chicago area pick-up locations. Contact us at: 815-953-5682 or csa@mintcreekfarm.com

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Maple Whiskey Crisp Cupcake This is an exclusive recipe created for Edible Chicago, inspired by The Rye Crisp cocktail handcrafted at The Stained Glass Bistro in Evanston. Few Rye Whiskey, distilled in Evanston, was the original inspiration. 2 ¼ cups cake flour (sifted) 1 cup granulated sugar 3 teaspoons baking powder ¼ teaspoon salt 2 large eggs, room temperature ¾ cup milk 2 tablespoons maple syrup (Funks Grove Pure Maple Syrup) 1 stick unsalted butter (melted) 1/8 cup rye whiskey (Few Spirits) 3 dashes of nutmeg (optional) 1. Preheat oven to 375°. 2. Put all dry ingredients into a mixing bowl. 3. In a medium size bowl whip eggs, milk and syrup together by hand. Melt butter then add to the wet ingredients. Slowly add wet ingredients to dry ingredients and mix with a mixer on low until blended. Then add whiskey and nutmeg. 4. D  ivide batter evenly among baking cups and bake approximately 14 to 16 minutes. Cupcakes are done when the toothpick comes out clean when inserted into center of the cupcake. Allow cupcakes to cool then frost.

Maple Buttercream 1 stick unsalted butter (room temperature)

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2 cups confectioners’ sugar 1 tablespoon dark brown sugar 2 tablespoons maple syrup Praline pecans, for garnish (optional) 1. Beat 1 stick of butter in mixing bowl on med until smooth. Gradually add in the 2 cups of powdered sugar (one cup at a time) beating after each. 2. P  ut the brown sugar and maple syrup in a small pot and heat on medium-low until sugar is fully dissolved. Let cool then add to buttercream mixture and beat for 30 – 40 seconds. Crush pecans. Set aside and then use for garnish on frosted cupcakes.

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25


From the Good Earth Story and Photographs by Monica Kass Rogers

O riana’ s O rchard:

The Fruits of Her Labor They call Oriana Kruszewski the Pear Lady. And it is easy to see why. Standing in front of me is a single pear tree which bears on its branches 20 different varieties of pears—Hosui, Chojuro, Njiseiki, Shinseiki. This panoply of Asian pear cultivars all dangle in various stages of russeted ripeness from different branches grafted to the same tree. “That tree is the mother of it all,” says Kruszewski, plucking a pear. And for her it really is. Nearly 40 years ago, Kruszewski moved from her native Hong Kong to Skokie, Illinois and took up a hobby, which turned into a passion—she began tinkering with fruit trees and taught herself how to graft multiple varieties of pear onto a single trunk. Her first tree was a Kieffer pear tree that she bought from a local Home Depot. Applying her newly acquired grafting techniques, she turned the simple nursery tree into a marvel of Asian pear diversity. This early success put Oriana on the path to all sorts of rare fruit tree adventures. Along the way, she established friendships with mentors and experts nationwide. When she outgrew her backyard orchard, she bought a 40-acre fruit farm near Galena, Illinois to accommodate the fruits of her labor. What also blossomed was a belief that she should pass along what she learned, forward. For Oriana, good-tasting fruit is the bottom line. Cutting into one lemony-sweet, crunchy pear I marvel at the flavor, but Oriana is dismissive. “On a scale of one to ten, just a five.” She applies these high standards to every fruit tree she’s squeezed into her backyard and to the hundreds more she has on her farm: persimmon, plum, pawpaw, quince, Cornelian cherry, Black walnut, and of course, Asian pear. “Every time someone has a variety that they say has really good flavor, I graft it on to the tree,” she explains. “Same for persimmon and pawpaw.” They have also been part of her experimentation. 26

edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012


“I love to work with these Flavor—and the determination to overcome challenges that would defeat lesser gardeners—is what got Oriana started in the first place. It took eleven years for her first pear tree to produce fruit, she explains, “and after all that waiting, the fruit was not good!” Through her friendship with grower and mentor, Bob Kurle, founder of Midwest Fruit Explorers (MidFEx), a club for backyard fruit growers, Oriana learned “if you don’t like the fruit on one tree, no problem, you just graft on a better tasting kind.” Grafting also speeds the amount of time it takes for a young tree to produce fruit—6 or 7 years for fruit from rootstock that’s been grafted compared with 10 to 15 years for a seedling tree. Small, sturdy and matter-of-fact, Oriana bustles from tree to tree, snipping here, plucking there, and telling stories as she goes. “You see this? She pushes clusters of “female” branches aside on an American persimmon to show where she has grafted a “male” branch to provide pollen. “That’s the only way to get fruit from the tree.” Farther back in the yard, Oriana points out a rare and wonderful Cornelian cherry tree. Its elongated fruit starts out white, ripens to yellow and when mature, turns the color of flame in deep, cranberry red. “They make brandy from them in Russia,” she shares, “and they make a really flavorful jam.” “And here? These are pawpaws,” she says, pointing out rows of potted, large-leafed seedlings in a shady corner spot. Earmarked for a garden at Kendall College, the small trees will be planted and then tended by Oriana until they are mature enough to be grafted. Although pawpaw, a native fruit with a mellow banana-mango flavor and a custardy texture, grows wild in American forests, it is impossible to transplant and very difficult to bring to fruition. “With pawpaw, you have to graft a different cultivar on to the plant in order to have fruit.” Figuring out what works has been a slow, painstaking and not particularly lucrative process. So why do it? Oriana shrugs, “It’s a hobby that got out of hand. But I love to work with these plants—they keep me healthy and bring me joy.” She also sees value in keeping unusual fruit in our food system so they’re not lost or forgotten. Fortunately, Oriana was able to find mentors

who were willing to help her pursue this passion. Jim Claypool from St. Elmo, Illinois, taught her what she knows about American persimmons. She credits Neal Peterson, a pawpaw grower, and Dr. Kirk Pomper, head of the Kentucky State University Pawpaw Project, with helping her create and cultivate her pawpaw patch. Following in her mentors’ footsteps, Oriana serves on the board of MidFEX, helps tend the espaliered fruit trees at the Chicago Botanic Gardens, and teaches their advanced grafting classes in the spring. Given the farm-to-table chefs’ growing interest in local ingredients, Oriana feels she is in the right place at the right time. “Customers at the farmers market are excited when they see something new I bring. Chefs stop by, check out the materials and create something new in their menu. I think that is the greatest encouragement for me to keep going.”  Encouragement does help. Riding the unpredictable waves of changing and often severe Midwestern weather at her Winslow, Illinois farm, Oriana has had some good years—one 2 ½ ton bumper crop of pears— but some bad ones too. The record cold of 1999, when she lost more than 100 trees, was the worst. She has also endured three years with no harvest at all. This year was one of them. Warm March temperatures coaxed pear blossoms out too early: When frosts came later, they destroyed the entire crop. The only pears she was able to sell at Chicago’s Green City Market came from her backyard trees in Skokie and she had to price them at $4 or more per pound. Still, Oriana has taken it in stride. “Nature will do its thing, and there’s not much you can do. So, you have to look at it in a positive way: take a vacation, have an easy year at the orchard.” Although 2012 was hard on the pear crop, it was her best year for Cornelian cherries. And, although diminished, the Black walnut crop will continue to sell through December. Looking ahead, Oriana is considering growing some Chinese white peaches under plastic. She also hopes to replant and upgrade. She will improve irrigation and frost protection to the orchard with the installation of a 72’ x 30’ tunnel greenhouse. “We cannot put our whole orchard under plastic,” says Oriana, “but we can plant some of the cold-sensitive fruit trees there, which may help.”

plants—they keep me healthy and bring me joy.” Oriana Kruszewski

— W ho —

Oriana Kruszewski — W hat —

Oriana’s Orchard & Nursery, Winslow, Illinois asianpearfarm.com — W here —

Green City Market at the Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum, 2430 N. Cannon Drive, Chicago, Saturdays beginning in November. — W hat —

In December: black walnuts, some dried Asian pears.

Oriana’s greatest tools, however, are her continued persistence and experimentation. “I was told by the local extension, after we bought our land in 1995, that the location was not suitable to grow an Asian pear orchard. But, I planted 50 trees in the first year and kept adding more. I found a way. I’m hoping there will be many more unknowns who will take on the challenge with rare fruits. If something tastes good, and someone has the will to stick with it, why not?” ec Monica Kass Rogers has a passion for reclaiming lost foods and traditions. She is a regular contributor to Edible Chicago and also dishes up old time favorite recipes at her website LostRecipesFound.com.

www.ediblechicago.com

27


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RSVP to events@ediblechicago.com with “Quarterly Carousal #4” in the subject line.

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edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012

Follow the Market to the Nature Museum! November 3rd-December 15th Every Saturday 8am-1pm Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum


ChicaGROWS Story and Photographs by Judith Nemes

Fresh Moves:

Produce Store on Wheels Hits Food Deserts

Top left: Latrice Nix Bottom left: Dara Cooper

On a steamy Wednesday morning in early August, Dara Cooper was running late to meet me at the Fresh Moves bus—a mobile market—parked next to the Lawndale Christian Health Center on the West Side of Chicago. She was battling traffic on her way back from a farmers market in Chatham on the South Side where she made a special run to collect 60 pounds of just-picked peaches from L&R Farms near Pembroke, Illinois. The round trip plus loading time took a two-hour chunk out of her day. “I’m from Georgia and I know how peaches are supposed to taste,” insisted Cooper with a big grin on her face. She was hauling boxes of fuzzy fruit onto the bus. “I’m big on flavor so it’s worth the trip to get them from these great local farmers in the Pembroke area.”

Cooper is the senior manager at Fresh Moves and coordinates the patchwork challenge of finding the right mix of produce from local growers and bigger distributors. A variety of about 40 different types of fruits and vegetables are needed each week to stock the bus. Sourcing local and organic is a priority, but as a non-profit with limited resources and short on staff to collect the goods, they do their best to make that happen. Fresh Moves runs a Chicago Transit Authority bus that was donated and retrofitted to serve as a produce store on wheels. The seats were yanked out and shelves with rows of baskets for fruits and veggies now line both sides of the bus alongside the windows. A staffer works the cash register that’s set up on a check-out station at the back of the bus.

Launched in May 2011, the bus has been bringing everything from carrots, avocados, kale and peppers to grapes, bananas, peaches and nectarines to Chicago residents who live and work in a few West Side neighborhoods where fresh food is often hard to find. The driver has a regular route of about 15-20 stops, four days a week as the bus winds through Lawndale, Austin and Garfield Park. The emphasis is on reaching kids at schools, their parents and teachers. A handful of senior homes and health centers are always on the route too. When school is out, other locations are added to replace the number of shoppers they lose during the summer months. The group’s primary mission is to narrow the gap between communities that don’t have access to fresh produce and those that www.ediblechicago.com

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Fresh Moves: Emphasis on Local Produce Before they got rolling, Fresh Moves’ leaders decided early on they would focus on purchasing local produce within Illinois and neighboring states. They would also seek out organic growers whenever possible and affordable, and then conventional as a last resort. Two important factors are driving the decision to buy local: superior flavor and keeping dollars in the local economy. If the group is trying to motivate people to change their eating habits by incorporating more fruits and vegetables in their diet, the food has to be delicious to win them over, asserts Fresh Moves senior manager Dara Cooper. “Some kids say they don’t like apples because it tastes like cardboard. They’re probably eating apples that didn’t ripen naturally because they were shipped here from far away,” she says. “Local has a lot to do with good flavor. If you pick something locally, you get to taste it in its full and rich naturally-ripened state.” — Judith Nemes

have good sources of healthy food. Equally important, Fresh Moves wants to have an impact on improving the health of residents in those neighborhoods. Shoppers are offered healthful recipes to help them cook tasty meals and sometimes health care volunteers are on board to discuss health and food issues with customers seeking advice. “Our goal is to address illness in the community that’s directly linked to the lack of fresh produce,” explains Cooper. “We’re using social entrepreneurship to address the void in those communities.” Why target those specific neighborhoods? “If you look at a map of where markets for fresh produce are missing, the West Side was pretty glaring, especially in Lawndale and Austin,” she says. “That same map overlaps with black communities that have high rates of heart disease and high blood pressure. Those neighborhoods also have a lot of resources and partners that are committed to making sure our program is a success.” So far, they’ve got it right, observes Lauri Alpern, Principal at Open Door Advisors, a social venture consultancy based in Chicago. “Fresh Moves is filling a gaping hole in the community-based market for high quality produce,” says Alpern, who isn’t working directly with the group. “Their unique and ongoing challenge is to balance their missionbased commitment to access, affordability, quality and variety with the market realities of sourcing produce in our region. Navigating this balance is complicated.” Some consumers concerned with health are finding what they need on the bus. Latrice Nix stepped onto the Fresh Moves bus after a workout at the health center that same Wednesday just before noon to check out what the non-profit had to offer. The Lawndale resident has a baby at home and she started eating less processed foods this summer as part of a new commitment to a healthier lifestyle. “I used to eat lots of candy and fried foods,” admits Nix, 31. “You’ve got to have lots of energy chasing a one-year old, so I needed to make some changes. I’ve really noticed I have more energy and I feel better all around now that I’m working out and eating better food.” She left the bus with two armloads of grocery bags filled with tomatoes, onions, oranges, a pineapple, a cucumber, strawberries, and more.

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edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012

The non-profit tries to buy as much organic or sustainably-grown produce as it can afford, because chemical-free foods are healthier, argues Cooper. When they have to narrow the choices of organics for cost reasons, they follow the Environmental Working Group’s dirty dozen list of the most highly sprayed vegetables as a guideline for prioritizing which produce are most important to buy organic. That list includes apples, celery, grapes, peaches, lettuce and berries of all kinds. In addition, the group is keen on supporting local farmers within the region, as well as urban farmers right in the neighborhoods where residents shop aboard the bus. Buying from those growers redirects resources to smaller urban organizations and family farms, which keeps the local economy humming along, notes Cooper. Despite their good intentions, Cooper and her small staff quickly learned that stocking the bus with local produce is easier said than done. This past summer, Fresh Moves was getting about 20% of its produce from local sources. Last year, it was closer to 50%. One major reason for the reduced amount this year: the weather. “The farmers were telling me how the frost last spring ruined a lot of their crops,” says Cooper. “And now the drought is having an impact on produce we’d normally get from them mid-summer. If I could get 100% local, that would be fabulous, but of course bananas and mangos could never grow here.” Mick Klug Farms, a family farm about two hours from Chicago in St. Joseph, Michigan, sold cherries and strawberries to Fresh Moves last spring for about three weeks. Unfortunately, there wasn’t much excess they could spare from the supply they needed for Green City Market in Chicago, says Abby Klug, Mick’s daughter. “We love to support those types of organizations, and it’s especially good for us too when we have an overabundance of crops, because then we can give them a better price and it helps us unload our extras,” she says. “This spring and summer was especially tough because so much of our fruit was damaged or destroyed because of the early frost and then the drought. We hope to be a better partner with them next year.” Beyond Mother Nature wreaking havoc with farmers’ crops, there are other challenges that make it tough for Fresh Moves to get as much


local bounty as organizers would like. For one thing, buying local can be expensive, especially since Fresh Moves isn’t purchasing massive quantities which would lower the price significantly. Some urban growers, like Growing Power, offer discounts to Fresh Moves, because it’s part of their own mission to support those kinds of initiatives. And on occasion, the group gets donations from Jane Addams Hull-House Museum’s urban farm. One week last summer, Hull-House donated a sizable amount of collards, kale and Swiss chard, recalls Cooper. Logistics plays a role as well in sourcing local produce. Most farmers don’t deliver to Fresh Moves primarily because the orders aren’t big enough and they head into Chicago to set up at specific farmers markets. The non-profit doesn’t have a fleet of drivers to make the rounds, so Cooper typically has to shuttle between a handful of farmers markets to get some of their harvest for the week’s supply. She picks up what she can, then fills in the rest from larger distributors, such as Goodness Greeness on the South Side and Market Produce in the West Loop. The bigger outlets offer a safety net so Fresh Moves can replenish its shelves with the wide array of items that consumers on the bus expect as a one-stop-shopping experience.

LEAVE THE WINE BEHIND.

“I’m hoping in the future we’ll need more volume so it’ll be worth the farmers’ while to drop off produce to us, or at least in a central place at one of the bigger distributors where we can get all we need in one stop,” says Cooper, with fingers crossed. That boost in volume may come soon for Fresh Moves. This fall, a second CTA bus is expected to hit the streets in a handful of South Side neighborhoods, also known for a paucity of fresh produce in local stores. By late summer, Fresh Moves was still meeting with communitybased organizations and schools to determine routes through specific neighborhoods. “When we launched on the West Side, we had no idea how well it would be received,” observes Cooper. “Now we see there’s so much more to do.” ec Judith Nemes documents the green scene in Chicago’s neighborhoods through her stories and photographs in Edible Chicago and Crain’s Chicago Business. She is also an adjunct professor of journalism at Columbia College Chicago, teaching the next generation of writers. You can follow her on Twitter: @JudithNemes.

Pasture Raised, Tender, Tasty & Naturally Juicy Chicago area or on-farm pick-up

Caveny Farm

Heritage Poultry Monticello, Illinois www.cavenyfarm.com

Seasonal Sustainable Local

Brooklyn Brewer y 79 N 11 th St, Brooklyn, NY 11249 BrooklynBrewer y.com • BrooklynBlogger y.com Facebook.com/TheBrooklynBrewer y @BrooklynBrewer y

www.ediblechicago.com

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The Lake Effect Story by Amelia Levin Photographs by Grant Kessler

boka restaurant group chefs

Shift Chicago’s Food Scene Rob Katz, Kevin Boehm

Rob Katz and Kevin Boehm, founders of the successful Chicago Boka Restaurant Group, have certainly amped up their presence on the national scene in the past two years. They have assembled a stable of star chefs—some of the best known in the country—to keep Chicago among the top food destinations.

The two have come a long way. I remember first meeting Kevin nine years ago just after BOKA opened in 2003—bearing a wide smile characteristic of his Midwestern (Springfield, Ill.) roots. He was eager to show off his Chicago restaurant debut with Katz, had who exchanged a career in options trading for the nightlife industry four years prior. Little did they know that almost a decade later, they would be bringing in more than $30 million across seven (and counting) concepts—some already on their second redesign—while managing 600 employees. Today, they are the picture of the modern restaurateur: sharp dressed, quick-witted, online, forward-thinking, family-focused, and backed by an impressive cadre of high-caliber, celebrity chefs dedicated to supporting their local farms and producers. “We really share the same values,” says Katz. There is a core group of four high-end chefs which anchor the company. 32

edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012

Giuseppe The first place the duo opened, BOKA, sparked the beginning of the restaurant group. During a reboot of the spot in 2007, Boehm and Katz recruited chef Giuseppe Tentori, who served as the as chef de cuisine at Charlie Trotter’s. It was right at the beginning of a shift in the foodie world. “After we hired Giuseppe Tentori, strangely, at the same time, there seemed to be all these forces at work creating the proliferation of the ‘rock star chef,’” Katz says. “With the Food Network, all the television shows and the media, something started to really change.” For Boehm and Katz, that change was a switch to a chef-driven approach to anchor their restaurants. With Guiseppe in the kitchen, the accolades for BOKA poured in; three stars from the Chicago Tribune, a Michelin Star, and a Best New Chef award for Tentori from Food and Wine magazine. Four years later, in 2011, GT Fish & Oyster opened. Considered Tentori’s “baby,” the seafood-focused, nautical-themed bar and eatery in the heart of River North quickly became another successful neighborhood-focused venture for the Boka Restaurant Group with


J Parker Lounge, Chicago

the same kind of anticipation, hype, three-hour wait times and culinary stardom as their first restaurant. At that time, words like “farm-to-table”, “green” and “sustainable” were flying around, but these terms were nothing new for Tentori, whose reputation for working with small farms and producers in the Midwest at Trotter’s was already firmly established. Now, however, there, was a clear way to describe what the Boka Restaurant Group had been doing all along. Even at the BOKA bar—mixologist Benjamin Schiller used fresh, seasonal herbs, fruits and other finds to make his own infused spirits, syrups and other elixirs for his creative concoctions. “I think the world has evolved from all these phrases that people were using,” Boehm says. “Farm-to-table, at one point, was a trend, and many restaurants were just doing it to say they were. Now, it’s a practice everyone should be doing. All of our restaurants and all of our chefs follow—and have followed—these practices from Day One. They all have close relationships with local farmers, and they’re all concerned about ethical farming practices; I think that’s the direction in which the world has moved.” Boehm and Katz say they leave it up to their chefs to decide how they want to source their produce, be it directly from the farmer or from

city farmers markets, but they provide the extra funds on the back end so they can afford to buy, literally, the cream of the crop. “At the end of the day we probably run a slightly higher food cost just because the chefs are very specific—who they want to work with,” Boehm says. Both the “farm-to-table” and chef-driven approach happened organically, Katz points out. “Kevin and I didn’t seek out 10 years ago to create a chef-driven restaurant; that wasn’t the initial concept. But, as it turned out, the stroke of good fortune for all of us was partnering with Giuseppe and that led to working with another chef who had just happened to have won a very popular television show called “Top Chef.”

Stephanie When Stephanie Izard returned to Chicago following her win on Season 4 of the television hit “Top Chef” in 2008, Boehm and Katz quickly approached their long-time peer for a partnership opportunity. “We saw that she was a great chef who was just as passionate and just as much of a perfectionist as Giuseppe in terms of attention to detail,” Katz says. Says Izard, “When thinking about opening the restaurant, I really www.ediblechicago.com

33


Chef Stephanie Izard, Girl & The Goat

Chef Chris Pandel, Balena

wanted to work with experienced and trustworthy partners that had the same vision as I did. I instantly hit it off with Rob and Kevin. We all compliment each others’ strengths perfectly.”

the torch shortly after the restaurant opened, had the best products the Midwest had to offer right at his doorstep. This advantage was artfully employed in his seasonally-focused, playful menu. Chef Poli enjoyed three strong years with the restaurant, but when he decided to leave, Boehm and Katz had serious decisions to make about the future direction of the restaurant. Recruiting Paul Virant from Vie in Western Springs (who is known for his creativity in the kitchen using local preserves) was a no-brainer. With Virant on board, they reshaped and renamed the restaurant, Perennial Virant, after this longtime leader in “field-to-fork” cooking.

Boehm, Katz and Izard scoured the streets of Chicago to find the perfect location, landing along the historic “Restaurant Row” in the West Loop for an urban and approachable feel with high-revenue generating capability. Boehm and Katz had transformed the Halsted Street/Steppenwolf Theatre area and stepped up the extra-casual Lincoln Park with their fine-dining BOKA and their sexy, nightlife venue, Landmark in 2005, they now hoped to do the same with Girl & Goat on Randolph Street. Before the Girl & Goat opened in 2010, Randolph Street had been a notoriously up-and-down block, but in the last couple of years, the area has changed considerably and it now bustles with culinary-centered restaurants, late-night eateries and the occasional velvet-roped club. When Girl & Goat earned a James Beard nomination for Best New Restaurant last year, the deal was sealed and the Boka Restaurant Group was elevated to an even higher, more nationally-recognized level. And that’s when the Boka explosion really began.

Paul Perennial, originally run by Tentori, blossomed as soon as it opened in 2008 despite a burgeoning recession and the collapse of a deal to open a hotel next door. Located directly across the street from Lincoln Park and the Green City Market, Chef Ryan Poli, to whom Tentori passed 34

edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012

The chance to partner with a swiftly growing restaurant group—with no costs upfront and a location in the city— was an easy decision for Virant. “Perennial Virant has the same M.O. (modus operandi) we’ve had at Vie for the last eight years,” Virant says when asked about working with local farms. “The Green City Market has always been a source of inspiration for me, but now I feel I have an even better pulse on it and what’s coming in, being across the street.” It also makes lastminute, pre-shift market runs convenient. Now, a year and a half and one cookbook later (The Preservation Kitchen), “there’s a ton more going on than just a restaurant,” Virant says. The Boka Restaurant Group has also taken up residence in the long-awaited resurgence of the Hotel Lincoln, a hip boutique hotel adjacent to Perennial Virant. J. Parker is a stunningly beautiful bar on the roof of the hotel, which overlooks Lincoln Park and features Virant’s menu of small plates. Mixologist Erin Hayes draws inspiration and ingredients from the farmers market across the street to concoct


Chef Paul Virant’s Beet-pickled Deviled Egg with Brown Butter Bread Crumbs and Crème Fraiche

her “Green City Market cocktails”. And, at street level, patrons will find Elaine’s Coffee Call, where they can indulge in La Colombe coffee drinks, made with Kilgus Farmstead milk, and homemade pastries created by Perennial Virant Pastry Chef, Elissa Narrow.

Chris Initially, the 4,200-square-foot Landmark Grill on Halsted in Lincoln Park was the only Boehm and Katz venture that was not chef-driven. But when they decided to change the concept for the restaurant and rename it, Balena, they started shopping around for a high-caliber Chicago chef. They found another leader in the local food world, Chris Pandel from The Bristol. “I really enjoy being a partner with Rob and Kevin at Balena,” Pandel says. “They allow people to do their jobs, which I believe is a key element to being so successful in this industry.” Choosing Pandel and the other Boka chefs was all about “picking people as like-minded as us,” Boehm says. “After all, Boehm was dining on farm-to-table food long before the trend hit the Chicago restaurant scene. “My mom grew up on a working farm in North Michigan, so I’ve always known that type of food.” Now collectively, the four top chefs in the Boka Restaurant Group are largely responsible for shaping modern Midwest cuisine as we know it.

The Future

shop, right across the street from her flagship restaurant on Randolph Street. It will feature fresh-baked goods by “bread guy” Greg Wade, local produce, dairy and more. And, she and the team are also busy developing plans for a quick-serve eatery, which will offer sustainablyraised chicken. If the concept is successful, the group hopes to one day have multiple locations throughout the city. I think we are the luckiest guys going—we are creating something that we are passionate about and working with people we love to be around,” Katz says. “We have a few other tricks up our sleeves, but at this point it’s about lifestyle; we want to slow it down a bit and enjoy what we’ve created here.” “With what we do you have to really care,” Katz continues. “We want to exceed everyone’s expectations when they come.” Boehm adds, “I think we always say it starts with great chefs but it continues with great hospitality. So if we can nail hospitality, design and food at any of our restaurants, then we’ve achieved success.” ec Amelia Levin is a chef and the author of Chicago Chef’s Table. She is also a regular contributor to Edible Chicago and a member of the Green City Market Junior Board. When Amelia is not dining out or writing about it, you can likely spot her at her favorite farmers market checking out what Chicago’s chefs are buying for their menus.

So what’s next for the highly successful Boka Restaurant Group? This fall, Chef Stephanie Izard will open Little Goat, her diner-bakery-coffee www.ediblechicago.com

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Pumpkin Salt Cod Soup

Serves 4

Adapted from Girl in the Kitchen: How a Top Chef Cooks, Thinks, Shops, Eats, and Drinks by Stephanie Izard, with Heather Shouse. © 2011 Chronicle Books. The night before you plan to make the soup, soak the salt cod in cold water, keeping it refrigerated overnight. This draws the hardened salt shell off the fish. 6 ounces deboned salt cod*

2 cups milk

¼ cup heavy cream

1 pie pumpkin (about 2 pounds)

1 cup water

1 teaspoon sambal paste**

3 teaspoons butter

¾ cup diced onion

Salt

4 ounces Yukon gold potato, peeled and diced

4 teaspoons roasted, salted pepitas (pumpkin seeds)

Freshly ground black pepper 1. Preheat oven to 375°.

2. Cut the pumpkin in half and scoop out and discard the seeds and guts. Put 1½ teaspoons butter in each pumpkin half, season with salt and pepper, and then set the pumpkin flesh-side down in a shallow baking dish. Bake until the skin starts to brown and the pumpkin is soft to the touch, about 1 hour. Remove from oven and let cool. 3. W  hile the pumpkin is baking, drain the salt cod. In a medium soup pot, combine salt cod with milk, 1 cup water, onion, potato, and cream. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cook until the potato is fully tender and the salt cod is falling apart, 30 to 45 minutes. 4. Once the pumpkin has cooled enough to handle, scrape the flesh into the soup and add the sambal. Using a tabletop or immersion blender, puree the soup. 5. Divide the soup among 4 bowls and top each with pepitas before serving. *Deboned salt cod is available at Dirk’s Fish and Gourmet Shop, 2070 N. Clybourn Ave. Chicago. **Sambal paste (also labeled sambal bakjak or sambal oelek) is a Southeast Asian chili paste blending ground chiles with salt and vinegar. Find it at Huy Fong Foods in Chicago and other Asian markets or the Asian section of some larger grocery stores.

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edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012

Photo © Susan Zidar/Shutterstock.com


Liquid Assets

Illinois Wine Country Illinois boasts 100 wineries, 450 vineyards and six designated Wine Trails traversing the state. Handcrafted and award-winning, travelers can find a wide variety of vintages bottled at locations within two hours of Chicago. Notable wines from the Northern Illinois Wine Trail are featured.

Appetizers, cheese & crackers Sweet Catawba, August Hill Winery

Light, sweet and fruity blush wine made from American grapes. Augusthillwinery.com

Red meat, prime rib Cinsault 2010, Lynfred Winery

Full body with an aroma of coconut, butterscotch and cinnamon. Pairs well with prime rib, corned beef sandwich. Lynfredwinery.com

Poultry, seafood, ham State White, Prairie State Winery

A crisp, semi-dry white with hints of floral. Serve chilled with seafood, poultry and vegetable dishes. Prairiestatewinery.com Cranberry fruit wine, Silver Moon Winery

This variety is lightly sweet with a tart finish. It works with a wide range of foods including ham, grilled fish or that turkey sandwich after the holiday dinner. Silvermoonwinery.com

Dessert Cabernet Zinfandel, Coopers Hawk Winery

Aromatics burst with ripe raspberry, blackberry, cherry pie filling, plum and baking spices. Will make a great partner with chocolate for a dessert course. Coopershawkwinery.com Wild Blossom Prairie Passion, a dessert wine from Wild Blossom Meadery and Winery

A traditional, sweet mead full of seductive honey flavors and sweetness with a crisp finish. Wildblossomwines.com For more information: Illinoiswine.org

Photo Credits: 1 © Ugorenkov Aleksandr/shutterstock.com; 2 © Ugorenkov Aleksandr/shutterstock.com; 3 © optimarc/shutterstock.com; 4 © steve cukrov/shutterstock.com; 5 © optimarc/shutterstock.com; 6 © arsegra/shutterstock.com

www.ediblechicago.com

37


edible

Source Guide

With Your Dine and Drink Local Listing The Edible Source Guide s a condensed listing of advertisers in this issue. Please support these fine businesses and eating establishments as they help bring Edible Chicago to our city and surrounding suburban communities.

D I N E + D R I N K LOC AL Green listings are dining establishments certified by the Chicago Green Restaurants ® and practice environmental sustainability.

Bakersfield Restaurant WESTERN SUBURBS American menu with house-made products. Featuring barrel cut meats and fresh fish. Extensive fine wine selection. Located across the street from Standard Market. 330 E. Ogden Ave., Westmont 630-568-3815; bakersfiled.com

Bar Pastoral LAKEVIEW Cheese, wine, craft beer, charcutere. From the founders of Pastoral Artisan Cheese, Bread and Wine, the newly opening sustainably designed wine bar. Location is next to their Lakeview shop. 2947 N. Broadway; barpastoral.com

Big Bowl GOLD COAST, NEAR NORTH SIDE, NORTH, NORTHWEST Chinese Thai Food/Asian Fusion. Freshest ingredients, authentically prepared. Local farmer supported. Four Chicago land locations: 6 East Cedar St., Chicago 60 E Ohio St., Chicago 215 Parkway Dr., Lincolnshire 1950 E/ Higgins Rd., Schaumburg bigbowl.com

Duke’s Alehouse & Kitchen SUBURBAN NORTH Farm-to-table sourced, local and organic American menu, over 150 craft beers. Also a vegetarian menu. Easy trip from Chicago on the Metra train. 110 N. Main St., Crystal Lake 815-356-9980; thedukeabides.com

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edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012

FOODease WATER TOWER PLACE

Province RIVER WEST

Restaurant quality food prepared to go! Gourmet food market run by restaurateurs with a local, seasonal focus. Fine wine, catering options, and vendor tasting events. 312-335-3663; foodeasechicago.com

Farm-to-table menu with cuisine inspired by Central America and Spain. 161 N. Jefferson St., Chicago 312-669-9900; provincerestaurant.com

Kingsbury Street Café LINCOLN PARK

Sable Kitchen and Bar RIVER NORTH

American with Asian fusion with local and seasonal menu. Pastries and breads made in house daily. Serving breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. 1523 N. Kingsbury St., Chicago 312-280-1718; kingsburystreetcafe.com

American gastro-lounge, sustainable choices from farm to garden. 505 N. State St., Chicago 312-755-9704; sablechicago.com

Marion Street Cheese Market SUBURBAN WEST

Sandwich Me In LAKEVIEW

Eco-friendly bistro featuring American dishes sourcing organically, locally. 100 S. Marion St., Oak Park 708-725-7200; marionstreetcheesemarket.com

Quick service sandwich shop using local meats and fresh produce with an emphasis on sustainability. Event catering is also available. 3037 N. Clark St., Chicago 773-348-3037; sandwichmeinchicago.com

NAHA RIVER NORTH

Signature Room on the 95th GOLD COAST

Seasonal, American cuisine with influences of the Mediterranean. 500 N. Clark St., Chicago 312-321-6242; naha-chicago.com

Fresh, seasonal menu with a dazzling skyline view. 875 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago 312-787-9596; signatureroom.com

Osteria Via Stato RIVER NORTH Seasonally prepared, locally sourced Italian dishes and wines. 620 N. State St., Chicago 312-642-8450; osteriaviastato.com

Piccolo Sogno WEST LOOP

Uncommon Ground EDGEWATER & WRIGLEYVILLE Local, seasonal, organic menu and beverages. Weekly entertainment, Devon location: summer farmers market and certified organic rooftop garden. Wrigleyville: 3800 N. Clark St., Chicago, 773-729-3680 Edgewater: 1401 W. Devon St., Chicago, 773-465-9801 uncommonground.com

Fresh, seasonal rustic Italian fare, house-made pastas. 464 N. Halsted St., Chicago 312-421-0077; piccolosogno.com

Photo above © Hitdelight/shutterstock.com Photo opposite © Zhukov Oleg/shutterstock.com


FA R M S + C S A P R O G R A M S

Caveny Farm Pasture raised poultry and lamb. Heritage breeds of turkeys, ducks, geese. Available at select fall farmers markets. 217-762-7767; cavenyfarm.com

Heartland Meats All natural USDA Piedmontese beef raised without use of added hormones. American Human Certified. Phone/online ordering, store location at farm or available at select fall farmers markets. 815-538-5326; heartlandmeats.com

Jake’s Country Meats Pasture raised, natural pork without antibiotics. Phone/online orders, select farmers markets. 269-445-3020; jakescountrymeats.com

Mint Creek Farm 100% grass fed lamb, goat, beef and veal. Turkey, eggs and poultry also available. Select fall farmers markets and phone/online orders. 815-953-5682; mintcreekfarm.com

FINE DINING CLUBS

Chicago Gourmets Membership club where guests enjoy fine dining at some of Chicago area’s hottest restaurant establishments. Chicago Gourmets host over 70 events annually for 700 members. 708-383-7543; chicagourmets.org FOOD DISTRIBUTION

Goodness Greeness The Midwest’s leading source for fresh, USDA organic produce from farmers for over twenty years. 773-224-4411; goodnessgreeness.com FOOD DELIVERY

Irv & Shelly’s Fresh Picks Local owners Irv & Shelly deliver fresh, local & organic foods from family farms, all year-round to Chicago and surrounding suburbs. 847-410-0595; freshpicks.com FOO D + B E VER AG E PRO DU C TS

NON PROFIT

Slow Food Chicago An educational organization with a goal of creating good, clean, fair food. Supporting local farming and public awareness through projects and special events. slowfoodchicago.org PRODUCTS + SERVICES

Country Financial Insures your car, home and family. Also a proud presenting sponsor of the Chicago Farmers Markets and the annual Country Chef challenge. 866-268-6879; countryfinancial.com S P E C I A LT Y R E TA I L S T O R E S

Dirk’s Fish & Gourmet Shop Chicago’s premiere sustainable fish and seafood shop. Events, demos and cooking classes. 773-404-3475; dirksfish.com

Brooklyn Brewery

Green Grocer Chicago

Award winning, seasonal and specialty beer since 1988. Currently distributed in 25 states and 20 countries. brooklynbrewery.com

Features organic and locally grown and produced foods, beverages and specialty items. Regular free tasting events. 312-624-9508; greengrocerchicago.com

Ludwig Farmstead Creamery

Provenance Food and Wine

Chicago’s source for locally produced, all-natural, grassfed beef. Wholesale and home delivery. 815-219-9356; q7ranch.com

Award winning, fifth generation Illinois family farm producing European-style artisan farmstead cheeses. Available at select farmers market, Marion Street Cheese Market and online purchasing. 855-583-9443; ludwigfarmsteadcreamery.com

Two neighborhood Chicago specialty shops selling foods and beverages from local purveyors. 773-384-0699; provenancefoodandwine.com

FA R M E R S M A R K E T S

Prairie Organic Vodka

Chicago Green City Market Year-round farmers market in Chicago, supporting local growers and artisans. 773-880-1266; chicagogreencitymarket.org

Seed to Glass: Handcrafted, infused vodkas. From a fifthgeneration family Phillip’s distillery in Minnesota. USDA Certified organic and kosher. Served at many fine Chicago restaurants serving local, organic food and beverages. prairievodka.com

Geneva Green Market

The Scrumptious Pantry

Niman Ranch Produces the finest tasting all-natural meats by raising livestock traditionally, humanely and sustainably on more than 650 US family farms. nimanranch.com

Quarter Circle Seven Ranch (Q7 Ranch)

Year-round farmers market in Geneva, supporting local growers and artisans. 630-377-0373; genevagreenmarket.org

Authentic foods with big taste from small farms. 301-979-9751; scrumptiouspantry.com

Standard Market A specialty market in Westmont offering fresh foods, butchered meats, bakery, top quality fish and seafood. Extensive cheese shop and wines. A celebration of food. 630-336-7030; standardmarket.com

Williams-Sonoma Premier specialty retailer of home furnishings and gourmet cookware. Their new line, Williams-Sonoma Agrarian, supports a life-style of healthy living—from gardening, homesteading and food-crafting products. Three Chicagoland stores are featuring artisan products and events. 877-812-6235; williams-sonoma.com

The Edible Source Guide and Dine and Drink Local listing is also available online at ediblechicago.com and is mobile ready for your quick reference on the go. Interested in advertising? Contact us at ads@ediblechicago.com or call 708-386-6781.

www.ediblechicago.com

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edible INK FAUXTANICALS

BY BAMBI EDLUND

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edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2012


W E TOA ST TO QUA LITY, NOT QUAN TI T Y. Prairie comes from a place where all the latest trends have been handed down for generations. Influence over affluence. Craft over convention. And above all, a vodka made with respect. It’s a time-honored tradition resulting in Prairie’s award-winning taste. PrairieVodka.com

ENJOY IN MODERATION ©2012 PRAIRIE ORGANIC VODKA, 40% ALC./VOL. (80 PROOF) DISTILLED IN BENSON, MN. BOTTLED BY ED PHILLIPS & SONS, PRINCETON, MN USA.

Edible Chicago Magazine | Fall 2012 | No 18  

Sweet Pea Media, LLC

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