chicago The Story of Local Food, Season by Season
LEGume Legacy hard Cider in the Windy City chef Family Tr aditions
FALL HARVEST 2011 • MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES • ISSUE 14
CHICAGO FESTIVAL November
18th-20th 2011 TASTE WHAT YOU SEE ON THE SCREEN! BROUGHT TO YOU BY
HOSTED BY & BENEFITING
fall harvest 2011
CONTENTS Seasonal Recipes 11 Beans with Rosemary 15 Gigante Beans 17 Pear-Thyme Crisp 19 Mom’s Brisket Recipe 22 Chicken Tandoori 29 Farmers Market Stir Fry with Seasonal Vegetables 35 Simple Seitan Find more seasonal recipes at ediblechicago.com under our recipe tab.
Wine Pairings Wine pairings for the fall harvest recipes courtesy of Chicago Sommelier Elizabeth Mendez. Wine selections originate from small batch wineries including some from locally grown and produced wines.
02 FOOD FOR THOUGHT
16 LOCAL and IN SEASON
04 WORTH NOTING Local, Pasture-Raised Thanksgiving Turkeys and Holiday Meats
06 WORTH NOTING Brewing the American Dream By Amelia Levine
10 COOKING WITH THE SEASONS Heirloom Beans: The Beauty of the Bean By Dana Benigno
14 EDIBLE HEALTH The Legume Legacy By Dr. John Principe
17 CALENDAR 18 EDIBLE TRADITIONS Two Executive Chefs Share their Family Traditions Chefs Photographs by Grant Kessler
23 FEATURE Hard Cider in the Windy City By Anne Spiselman
27 THE LAKE EFFECT Seed to Table: On the Farm with Big Bowl Restaurant By Monica Kass Rogers Photographs by Grant Kessler
30 LIQUID ASSETS
32 GARDEN NOTES Your Autumn Garden Checklist By LaManda Joy
34 THE KITCHEN FILES Cookbook Review: Veganopolis
36 INTERVIEW The Man Behind the Cookbook: Doug Seibold of Agate Publishing By Barbara Revsine
38 EDIBLE SOURCE GUIDE 39 DINE LOCAL LISTING 40 LAST BITE Truce in the Wiener Wars Photographs by Dan Fisher
Locally Uncorked: Midwest Sparkling Wines
Cover photo by Grant Kessler: Breslin Farm’s Calypso and Tiger Eye Heirloom Beans Apple Pie © Keribevan | Dreamstime.com
Food for Thought
EDITORS’ WELCOME As you may have noticed from the cover, we’re talking beans this issue. And, yes, we’ll even address the somewhat noticeable side effects from ingesting this small, but mighty legume. In Cooking With The Seasons, you will find a primer on heirloom beans and everything you need to know about cooking them. Edible Health follows with a scientific explanation of the chemical reactions that take place in our bodies after we eat a healthy portion of beans. We could call it the “From Table to Stool Movement” in an effort to reach people from all walks of life: flexitarians, vegetarians, vegan and carnivores, but instead, we will politely move on and discuss the rest of the issue. Edible Chicago got the inside scoop when it was invited to join the Executive Chefs of two of Chicago’s most prestigious hotels in their kitchens where they shared prized family recipes and stories about their Thanksgiving traditions. And don’t miss our profi le of a popular restaurant group that pays its staff to get dirty down on the farm—then serve the bounty they helped grow in the field. And, no celebration of fall is complete without honoring the apple. Our feature on hard cider details the intricate process of making this sparkling libation from press to glass. So, raise a toast (of apple cider, of course) to celebrate the colors and flavors of the fall harvest—cheers! Read on…
PUBLISHER/CO-EDITORS Sweet Pea Media LLC: Ann Flood + RJ Liscum
COPY EDITORS Debra Criche Mell + Kathleen Sheehan
RECIPE EDITOR Su Jang
ART DIRECTOR Marianna Delinck Manley
WEB DESIGN Jennifer Cliff + Mary Ogle
AD DESIGN Bob Keller
CONTRIBUTORS Dana Benigno + Ann Flood + LaManda Joy Amanda Levin + RJ Liscum + Elizabeth Mendez Dr. John Principe + Monica Kass Rogers Barbara Revsine + Anne Spiselman
PHOTOGRAPHER Dan Fisher + Grant Kessler
Not just a food magazine. It’s the voice of the farm to table movement! • Subscribe to Edible Chicago to help support our mission: To transform the way we shop for, cook, eat and relate to food grown and produced in our region. • Never miss an issue. Subscribe for yourself, or give as a thoughtful holiday gift.
Subscribe or renew a subscription between November 1-December 15, 2011, and receive a FREE 12 oz. bag of Counter Culture Coffee’s farmhouse brand coffee!* Counter Culture Coffee’s farmhouse is an innovative, organically harvested seasonal coffee concept akin to a CSA share from your favorite farm. Subscribe online at ediblechicago.com. Or mail a check payable to Edible Chicago: 159 N. Marion St., #306, Oak Park, IL 60301. Four issues delivered to your door: $28 for delivery in the U.S. *One 12oz. bag of farmhouse coff ee per paid subscription. Coff ee will be shipped separately from Counter Culture Coff ee. Counter Culture Coff ee in Chicago off ers courses, events and a weekly public coff ee cupping every Friday at 10AM at their Chicago training center. For location and information visit: counterculturecoff ee.com/Chicago.
edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2011
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CONTACT US Edible Chicago 159 N. Marion St., #306, Oak Park, IL 60301 Phone: 708.386.6781 | Fax: 708.221.6756 info@ediblechicago. Edible Chicago® is published seasonally—four times per year—by Sweet Pea Media LLC. We are an advertiser and subscriber supported publication, locally and independently owned and operated and a member of Edible Communities, Inc. Distribution is through Chicagoland and by subscription for $28.00 per year. @2011 All Rights Reserved. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspelling and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and let us know.
PASTURERAISED PO ULTRY
TURKEYS AND POULTRY Caveny Farm
Slagel Family Farm
Bourbon Red Heritage breed turkeys raised and processed in Central Illinois. Order now for Thanksgiving. Pick-up at Green City Market and select suburbs. Farm-pick also available. Ordering: cavenyfarm or 217-762-7767.
Natural hormone-free beef, pork, lamb, chicken, duck, rabbit and goat. Turkeys available during holidays. Info: Slagelfamilyfarm.com or 815-848-9385. Online ordering: email@example.com Farm pick-up and weekly Chicagoland dropoff points.
Door to Door Organics Locally raised pastured turkeys from Gunthrop Farms of LaGrange, Indiana. No hormones or antibiotics. Have your turkey conveniently delivered right to your door. Chicago. doortodoororganics.com. Use $10 off special Edible Chicago discount when ordering!
Fresh Picks Broad-breasted Bronze and White turkeys from Triple “S” Farms and TJ’s Poultry: free-range with no hormones, antibiotics or GMO feed. Ordering: freshpicks.com or 847-410-0595.
Garden Gate Farm
“Pasture-raised poultry” refers to the production system that raises chickens directly on pasture. This model has been developed over the last 20 years. The birds receive up to 30% of their food intake from pasture forage and bugs. This is important for their health and the nutritional value of their meat and eggs. Typically, this model is found only on small farms; it doesn’t lend itself well to large commercial operations.
Why is pasture-raised chicken/ turkey healthier? When compared to cage-raised birds, pasture-raised poultry has: Less total fat Less cholesterol • More vitamin A
Less saturated fat Fewer calories • More omega-3 fatty acids
(Source: Pasture Perfect by Jo Robinson) ec Editor’s note: The Family farms listed here for turkeys and holiday meats may vary based on availability at time of publication. 4
edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2011
Broad-breasted White, pastureraised turkeys, supplemented with a hormone-free feed. Sustainable farming practices. Order two weeks in advance of holiday date. Farm pick-up only. Ordering: bethrink@hotmail. com or 815-692-3518.
TJ’s Poultry Broad-breasted White, free-range turkeys. No hormones or antibiotics. Also offering chicken and turkey products. Ordering: firstname.lastname@example.org or 815-686-9200. Green City Market pick-up location and Fresh Picks.
Meadow Haven Farm Broad-breasted White Certified Organic turkeys from Sheffield, Illinois. Also offering 100% grass-fed beef pastured pork and free-range turkeys. Home delivery or pick up locations at Green City Market and select suburb locations. Order online: meadowhavenfarm.com or 815-454-2320.
Mint Creek Farm Broad-breasted White pasture-raised turkeys. No GMOs. Also organic pasture-raised lamb, beef, goat and pork. Order now for Thanksgiving. Ordering: mintcreekfarm.blogspot. com or 815-256-2202. Logan Square pick-up, farm pick-up.
HOLIDAY MEATS Heartland Meats
Twin Oak Meats
Roasts, steaks, soup bones. Piedmontese beef, raised humanely without use of added hormones. Ordering: heartlandmeats.com or 877-588-LEAN. Chicago: Green City Market.
Boneless/Bone-In Fresh Hams, Crown roasts. Animals raised hormone-free. Humane Slaughter Certified. Ordering: twinoakmeats. com or 815-692-4215. Weekly pickup at Green City Market or on-farm pick-up.
Jake’s Country Meats Holiday country hams, pork roasts, sausages. Thanksgiving deadline: Nov 12, Christmas: December 9. Ordering: jakescountrymeats.com or 268-445-3020.
Photo © Evgenyb | Dreamstime.com
Brewing the American Dream
A Helping HAnD From SAmuel ADAmS by Amelia levin
“ We thought Chicago was a perfect city to come to… some of the best restaurateurs in the country are here. ” — Jim Koch, Founder of Brewing the American Dream
Jim Koch knows what it’s like to be a little “in the dark” when you’re starting a small business. “I had an MBA from Harvard when I started my brewing business, but I had no idea about setting up a payroll, or packaging design, or how to source quinoa in 200-pound sacks, or negotiating a real estate loan, or at what point you need an accountant. Those are the kinds of questions that come up all the time when you’re starting out. You literally have to be the CEO of everything.” “Now I’m literally living the American Dream,” Koch said in a face-to-face meeting in Chicago. “I started Samuel Adams in my kitchen and literally pulled myself up by the bootstraps over the years. I would love to help someone else create another Sam Adams, whether that’s in beer or cupcakes or coffee.” Business owners shouldn’t have to go through the extreme learning curve he did. That’s why Koch has decided to give back—and just this year, even more. Koch started his Brewing the American Dream program in 2008 to offer craft breweries and other small businesses in the food, hospitality and beverage industries manageable loans along with ongoing educational opportunities and other resources for those just starting out. What started as a small philanthropic endeavor in New England has expanded into a nationwide initiative including other states: New York, Ohio and Pennsylvania. Now he’s come to Chicago to offer the loans, and they’re good for between $500 and $25,000 a pop. “No bank is going to lend that small of an amount—they like to loan hundreds of thousands of dollars at a time because that’s how they make money,” Koch says. “It can be hard for small businesses to get smaller loans because of that—even the Small Business Administration loans can require $50,000 and up as a minimum amount.” 6
edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2011
That’s a hefty sum to pay back. Paying back any loan can be a challenge as it is, that’s why Koch is excited about partnering with Chicagobased ACCION, a non-profit lending organization for small businesses, particularly those in the food and hospitality industry, to manage the loan process. ACCION has pledged to walk qualified businesses selected by Samuel Adams through the loan application and credit check process as well check in with the businesses to make sure they’re able to pay back their loan at a fair interest and not go into default. Since launching the program in Chicago this fall, already two businesses have received loans: Pecan and Charlie’s Mobile Cupcakery, a soon-to-open cupcake shop on wheels, and Boleres Enterprises, Inc., a wholesale premium and fair-trade coffee distributor. “We thought Chicago was a perfect city Courtesy of The Boston Beer Company
to come to,” Koch says. “It’s a very fertile area for startups in food and beverage – some of the best restaurateurs in the country are here, and it’s certainly a center for food and drink.” Throughout the course of the loan, Samuel Adams will also offer continuing education and other opportunities, including business literacy seminars, webinars and in-person “Speed Coaching,” which are special, in-person events held around the country in a format similar to “speed dating.” Businesses can sign up to meet with lawyers, accountants, marketing and sales trainers, public relations consultants, real estate professionals and other experts in their field to get 20 minutes of advice on specific aspects of running a business. Heads up Chicago-area craft brewers: if you’re outside the city limits in other Midwestern states, say, Indiana, you can apply for a loan and take advantage of this opportunity through Samuel Adams. And, all Chicago-based small businesses in the food, hospitality and beverage industries can apply. ec To apply for a loan or for more information: www.samueladams. com/btad/index.aspx. Amelia Levin is a Chicago-based freelance writer and regular contributor to Edible Chicago, specializing in stories about food, foodservice and the restaurant industry with experience in news reporting. She is also a certified chef and recipe developer.
Cooking with the Seasons by Dana Benigno
heirloom Beans The Beauty of the Bean When I began the research for this edition of Cooking with the Seasons, I was astounded at the variety of heirloom beans available. Each bean is so unique and beautiful, I kept thinking of ways to display them in jars or in vases on my dinner table instead of devising recipes in which to cook them. But, I love a pot of slow simmered beans in the fall, garnished with a bit of olive oil or sprinkling of cheese and fresh ground pepper and fresh chopped herbs, so my table centerpiece will have to go, or rather be eaten. The varieties of dried beans that are available at farmers markets and in local stores have increased in the past few years. Small gourmet stores will offer more variety than your local supermarket. When you buy dried beans from local shops, you can inquire about the age of the beans, but the best way to buy them and insure their freshness, is direct from the grower. The internet is another great source for 10
edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2011
ordering dried beans when it is not farmers market season. Store them in an airtight container and use them within two years. “Beans in the grocery store could be two, five or even ten years old, which means they continue to lose moisture. This makes them shelf stable, but the drier the bean, the longer the cooking time,” according to Tracey Vowell of Three Sisters Garden in Kankakee, Illinois.
Cooking Beans – to soak or not to soak – that is the question? Everybody has an opinion on the best way to cook beans. Contrary to popular belief, soaking the beans does nothing to decrease the flatulence factor. You can, however, gradually increase your intake without worry. The more beans you add to your daily diet, the easier Photo © Wellford Tiller | Dreamstime.com
it will be for your body to adjust to their digestion. I prefer to soak beans, especially if I have purchased them from the grocery store, as they can be very dry. I think a pre-soaking keeps them from splitting during the quick cook method. If you have purchased beans locally, you can simply cook the beans in a pot of water with seasonings such as onions, carrots, garlic, and fresh herbs. Bring it to a brisk boil. Lower the heat and cook at a bare simmer until tender. The cooking time will not always determine when the beans are done. Simply taste test them to see if they are cooked to your liking.
Special equipment I prefer a heavy soup pot such as enamel coated cast iron or a Dutch oven to cook the beans evenly and gently. You may cook the beans on the stovetop or bring them to a boil and then place the pot in a 350° oven and cook 1 to 2 hours until they are tender. The classic bean dish, cassoulet (casserole in France), takes its name from the pot in which it cooks. In Mexico, beans are typically cooked in a clay ceramic pot on the stovetop. Using a pressure or slow cooker is also a good method for cooking beans. Since many slow cookers have different temperature settings, it is best to follow the recommendations on cooking times from your appliance instructions. Herbs and aromatics such as onions, garlic, rosemary, thyme, parsley or sage are all delicious with any variety of beans. Many chefs will season with salt midway through the cooking process to prevent split skins. Reserve tangy or sweet additions such as molasses for baked beans or tomatoes until the beans are fully cooked in order to prevent toughening of the skins. ec Editors’ note: heirloom beans can be purchased online at www.breslinfarms.com, ranchogordo.com, seedsavers.org
Dana Benigno, of ChicagoCooks.com has a wonderful centerpiece of heirloom beans gracing her dinner table, but it is shrinking by the week as she concocts new recipes using her beautiful creation. She is also the Executive Director of the Chicago Green City Market and is a regular contributor to Edible Chicago. Photo © Francesco83 | Dreamstime.com
Beans with Rosemary, Sage and Pecorino Serves 8
Leftover beans from this recipe can be pureed and spread on top of toasty crusty bread. Garnish with a drizzle of good olive oil and a few shavings of a sharp hard cheese such as Pecorino. I love to serve a poached egg over mashed beans of any sort from white to pinto to black beans for breakfast. Toss a spoonful of beans from this recipe and add to any salad. 2 cups (beans, choose a variety to try I usually use flageolets or white beans) water 1 tablespoon kosher salt
fresh sage 2 sprigs of rosemary olive oil fresh ground pepper
3 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed 1. Place the beans in a bowl and cover with a generous amount of water. Soak the beans overnight. Drain in the morning. 2. In a large cast iron Dutch oven or heavy enamel pot, add garlic, sage and rosemary and the beans. Add water to cover the beans about 2 to 3 inches over the top. You will need to add water as the beans cook to account for evaporation. 3. Bring the pot to a boil then reduce heat to low and keep the beans at low simmer adding water as necessary. You may cook the beans on stovetop or place in a 350° oven and cook until tender. To Serve: Place a serving of beans on a plate or in a bowl and garnish with grated pecorino, olive oil and salt and fresh ground pepper.
Editor’s note: Cassoulet is a fun weekend project for a group of friends, as it takes time and off ers plenty of servings. Go to www.ediblechicago.com for an heirloom bean cassoulet recipe.
Heritage Bean Varieties Available Locally Bean description courtesy of Breslin Farms, Ottawa, Illinois. BL ACK TURTLE BEANS
TIGER E YE BEANS
This heirloom bean is believed to have originated in southern Mexico and Central America over 7,000 years ago. They have a deep, rich flavor that works superbly in soups, chili, and as refried beans.
Originally from Chile and Argentina, this bean is a gorgeous orange color with dark-maroon swirling stripes. Similar in taste to a pinto bean, but creamier in texture, the very tender skins almost disappear when cooked, making it a perfect bean for chili or refried beans.
JACOBâ€™S CAT TLE BE ANS
LIGHT RED KIDNE Y BEANS
Similar to the southwestern Anasazi bean, this is a gem of a bean with an ancient origin. It is kidney shaped with white and red speckles. This full-flavored bean holds its shape after long cooking or baking and possesses a rich aroma.
Exceptional culinary quality, with a silky texture and thin skin. The mild flavor and dry flaky texture is best baked or used in soups.
CALYPSO BEANS One of the all-time best beans for baking and using in soups. The Calypso Beans are also known as Orca or Ying Yang for its contrasting black and white colors with a dotted eye. The flavor is mild and the texture is smooth. When cooked, these beans double in size and retain their distinctive coloring. Calypso beans are well loved by bean aficionados for their creamy rich texture and striking color.
Passionate heirloom bean expert Steve Sando offers information on bean varieties, cooking methods and down-toearth recipes such as soups, dips, stews and more with gorgeous photographs to illustrate. Book jacket artwork courtesy of Chronicle Books
edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2011
Edible Health by Dr. John principe
Beanology The legume legacy Small but mighty, the bean has been properly engineered by nature to have a miraculous combination of protein and fiber that sprints ahead of many other vegetables in the nutritional marathon. Beans possess one of the largest sources of vegetable protein and fit well into the diets of flexitarians, vegetarians and those needing gluten-free options. Beans contain zero cholesterol and the trace amount of fat in beans, as in all vegetables, is polyunsaturated. It is a perfect food for those trying to control blood sugar or lose weight. It is considered a “resistant starch,” which means it is slow to digest and gives rise to only a gradual increase in blood sugar, delaying the return of feeling hungry. This starch is further metabolized by colonic bacteria and protective compounds that keep the large intestine healthy. The fiber content also promotes bowel motility and lowers cholesterol. There is a common side effect bean consumers—and sometimes those around them—notice: gas. Adding kombu (sea-vegetable), cumin, fennel and ginger to the cooking liquid can tame gas formation. When all else fails, keep some Beano on hand. It contains the natural enzyme, Alpha-galactosidase, a primary preventative measure to stop gas formation. It should be taken prior to meals. Finally, beans are a great source of micronutrients and vitamins with folate, Vitamin B6, potassium, magnesium and iron packaged into these nutritional powerhouses. To achieve the maximal benefit from beans, it is recommended that one should have between 4-8 cups of cooked beans per week. If you are not near that goal, start slow and gradually add more to your diet—your bowels will adjust. ec
Dr. John Principe is the founder of WellBeingmD’s Center for life in Palos heights, illinois. he is also a self-taught chef. The lower level of his medical practice contains a test kitchen where he teaches patients how to prepare healthy food using seasonal ingredients and cooking methods. www.wellbeingmd.com one of Dr. Principe’s favorite culinary applications for large lima beans is the authentic greek dish: gigantes. The marriage of beans, spices, fresh herbs (dill) and tomatoes into a velvety sauce is the vehicle for flavor. These beans accompanied by crusty whole grain bread are a prescription for a memorable, nutritious and cost-effective meal.
A Variety of Heirloom Beans
edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2011
Photo © Lillali | Dreamstime.com
Gigante Beans Serves 12 Adapted from Bon Appetit—Michael Symon, April 2011 These large white beans (gigantes means “giant” in greek) are a classic ingredient in greek cooking. The beans need to soak overnight, so plan accordingly. Dried gigante beans are large creamcolored beans from the mediterranean and can be found at some specialty foods stores and online at titanfood.com. home-canned tomatoes are desirable. ouzo is available at most liquor stores. 1 pound dried gigante beans, dried lima beans, or dried great northern beans
¼ cup red wine vinegar
¼ cup olive oil
1 tablespoon dried oregano (preferably greek)
3 cups chopped onions (about 2 medium) 3 garlic cloves, minced 8 cups (or more) low-salt chicken or vegetable broth
¼ cup ouzo (greek aniseflavored liqueur)
1 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper 1 cup chopped fresh dill
1 28-ounce can whole plum tomatoes in juice (preferably San marzano), tomatoes chopped, juice reserved 1. Place beans in large bowl. Pour enough water over to cover beans by 3 inches; let soak overnight. Drain beans; set aside. 2. heat olive oil in heavy large pot over medium-high heat. add chopped onions and sauté until onions are slightly golden, 6 to 7 minutes. add in garlic and sauté until fragrant. add beans, 8 cups chicken broth, tomatoes with juice, vinegar, ouzo, oregano, and crushed red pepper to pot; bring to boil. reduce heat, cover, and simmer until beans are tender, adding more broth by cupfuls to keep beans submerged and stirring occasionally over 2 to 3 hours, depending on freshness of beans. if necessary, uncover and cook beans until tomato mixture thickens and liquid is slightly reduced, 10 to 15 minutes. 3. Season beans to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Stir chopped fresh dill into beans a few minutes prior to serving. Do ahead: Beans can be made up to 1 day ahead. Cool slightly. Chill uncovered until cold, then cover and keep chilled. reheat beans before continuing, adding more chicken broth ½ cup at a time if beans are dry.
Wine Pairing: White: Palamina, Malvasia Bianca, Santa Ynez Valley, CA, 2010. Red: Palamina, Dolchetto, Santa Ynez Valley, CA, 2010 Nutritional Information one serving contains: Calories (kcal) 194.5 % Calories from Fat 25.3 Fat (g) 5.5 Saturated Fat (g) 1.1 Cholesterol (mg) 3.3
Photo © Funkybg | Dreamstime.com
Carbohydrates (g) 26.0 Dietary Fiber (g) 7.3 Total Sugars (g) 4.5 net Carbohydrates (g) 18.7 Protein (g) 10.8 Sodium (mg) 238.4
Cream Colored Gigante Beans Canned beans are the dominant choice in the United States; while there are no significant nutritional differences between frozen, canned and cooked dry beans, the shopper should be aware of the dangers of BPa (bisphenol-a) lined cans. This compound acts similar to estrogen in the body and poses many health risks including reproductive problems, intestinal damage associated with intestinal damage, increased likelihood of heart disease, diabetes, obesity and developmental brain defects in infants. eden organic has been canning beans since 1999 in bisphenol-a free cans. BPa-free cans are becoming widely available, but they cost approximately 2.2 cents more (14%) to manufacture than cans with standard BPa epoxy liners. www.ediblechicago.com
LOCAL and IN SEASON
Beets Broccoli Brussels Sprouts Burdock Root Carrots Cauliflower Celery Root Dry Beans Jerusalem Artichokes Leeks Parsley Root Parsnips Peas Potatoes Pumpkins Radishes (Varieties include Roseheart, Black, and Daikon) Rutabagas Salsify Scallions Sweet Potatoes Winter Squash Turnips
Asian Greens Cabbage Cooking Greens (Mustard, Turnip, Collard) Salad Greens Spinach
FRUIT Apples Pears (Asian and Western)
CULINARY HERBS Oregano Parsley Rosemary Sage Tarragon Thyme Mint Lemon Verbena
OTHER Garlic (Dried) Onions (Dried) Hot Peppers (Dried) Dry Corn (Popcorn, Cornmeal) Wheat berries Oats Horseradish
In Season is courtesy of Terra Brockman. Author of 2010 James Beard nominated book, The Seasons on Henry’s Farm.
edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2011
Photo © Olivier Le Queinec | Dreamstime.com
edible Fall 2011 Events OCTOBER 1 – OCTOBER 31 Chicago and Nationwide First Annual American Cheese Month A month long celebration of one of America’s favorite food items: cheese! Events, demos, classes, pairings, dinners and opportunities to meet artisan cheesemakers. Visit Pastoralartisan. com for a detailed listing of Chicago events and Americancheesesociety.org.
OCTOBER 20, NOVEMBER 17, DECEMBER 15 Oak Park Celebrate Local History with Local Cocktails.
Pear-Thyme Crisp Serves 6-9 6 ripe Bartlett pears 1 tablespoon lemon juice ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar, divided 1 cup flour plus 2 tablespoons, divided 1 vanilla bean, split ¾ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon ground ginger ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup (1 stick) cold butter, cut into 1-inch pieces 1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Quarter, core and peel the pears. Sprinkling the pears with lemon juice as you go to prevent browning, cut each crosswise into ¼ inch slices. You should have about 6 cups of sliced pears. 2. Once you have sliced all the pears, add 2 tablespoons of the brown sugar and 2 tablespoons of the flour to the pears, tossing to coat. With the tip of a knife, scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean onto the pears and toss to coat evenly. Set them aside while you prepare the topping. 3. Combine the remaining ¾ cup brown sugar, 1 cup flour, baking powder, ground ginger, kosher salt and thyme. Add the butter and work into the dry ingredients until it is crumbly. 4. Spoon the pear mixture into a 9-inch-square baking dish. Sprinkle crumb topping evenly over the top of the fruit. Bake 35 to 40 minutes, until bubbly and lightly browned on top. Remove from the oven and let stand until warm before serving.
Editor’s note: you can substitute fresh rosemary for thyme, too. Recipe courtesy of Lindsay Shepherd, Assistant Pastry Chef at Molly’s Cupcakes.
Photo © Teekaygee | Dreamstime.com
Lake Bluff’s North Shore Distillery comes to Kinderhook Tap to kick off their Third Thursday Cocktail Club. Drink and Food Specials, free issue of Edible Chicago and other fun specials: 6-8pm: Northshoredistillery.com, Kinderhooktap.com.
OCTOBER 24, Chicago and Nationwide It’s National Food Day. Celebrate fresh, natural foods and a sustainable environment. Make a commitment to eat healthier. Learn more on how to participate and local events: Foodday.org.
NOVEMBER 3, Chicago Farm-to-table dinner at The Signature Room on the 95th. Chef Patrick Sheerin prepares a six-course dinner with 100% grass fed meet from Gully Creek Ranch, Michigan. Fresh, seasonal produce from many of Green City Market vendors. 6:30-9pm: signatureroom.com or call 312-2800472 for reservations.
NOVEMBER 10-12, Chicago 5th Annual Pinot Noir Days. 70 Producers and winemakers offer tastings. Winemakers’ dinners to be held Nov. 10 at Eno Wine Room, Dinner at Uncommon Ground on Devon. Nov. 11 Dinner at Aria Restaurant. Nov. 12 Navy Pier Grand Festival Tasting, 1-5pm. Tickets and information: Pinotdays.com.
NOVEMBER 17, Chicago The Time is Ripe for Pears Tour comes to Chicago! Specifically to Pastoral Artisan Cheese, Bread and Wine at their Lake Ave., store, 4-8pm. Sponsored by USA Pears/ The Pear Bureau Northwest. Learn all about pears, pairings, recipes and demos. USA Pears.com, PastoralArtisan.com.
NOVEMBER 18-20, Chicago Chicago’s 2nd Annual Food Film Festival. Taste what you see on the screen! Watch documentaries, features and short films about our world’s favorite foods while you eat...a multi-sensory experience. Location and Tickets: Chicagofoodfilmfestival.com www.ediblechicago.com
CooKing WiTH mom, A HoliDAY TrADiTion
michael reich, executive Chef, JW marriott, Chicago My mom is a really good cook. When I was growing up she was always taking cooking lessons—Asian, German, Korean—all these different things she would try on us. There were a few mishaps over the years—we would end up going to the local deli because nobody would eat it. When I was very little I sat around on a step stool in the kitchen and I would watch her cook all the time. I think I picked up on simple things and I’m just kind of taking it to a different level. I still have my mom’s lamb chop recipe that she used to do with bread crumbs and some kind of fruit. So when plums are in season I cook them down with shallots and brandy then puree it, marinate the lamb, sear it off, kind of put that schmutz as I call it, rub that all over the lamb, put some seasoned panko bread crumbs around. It gets away from mustard, everyone does mustard crust. 18
edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2011
Photo top by Grant Kessler | Photo bottom courtesy of Chef Michael Reich
Thanksgiving Dinner She converts the kitchen to a huge buffet for 30-35 people. She has two ovens. I’m always cooking one turkey there and one turkey in the neighbor’s house—whoever is going out for Thanksgiving, I use their oven—and then heat everything else in her second oven. I’m cooking side by side with Mom…then she goes and takes a nap. Below is her holiday recipe for one of my favorites, Mom’s Beef Brisket. ec JW Marriott Chicago, 151 West Adams St. Chicago, IL 60603 312-660-8200 for more information: marriott.com/ chicago.
Mom’s Brisket Recipe
Adapted from Michael Reich, Executive Chef, JW Marriott Chicago
At the JW marriott Chicago, a landmark Daniel Burnham designed hotel, as many as 1,800 meals a day are turned out of the hotel’s kitchen,
5 to 7 pound single beef brisket
2 red onions
3 tablespoons paprika
3 yellow onions
3 tablespoons kosher salt
12 ounces chili sauce
3 tablespoons fresh ground black pepper
3 teaspoons mushroom powder
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 cups marble potatoes
12 ounces water
including staff meals,
1. rub the brisket with the paprika salt and pepper.
according to executive
2. heat up the olive oil in a skillet and sear each side of the brisket for one minute starting with the fat side. Then remove from the skillet and let rest.
Chef michael reich. his menu is based on sustainable sources, which is “a little bit more
3. Slice all the red onions and all but one of the yellow onions into ½ inch rings and layer them in the bottom of a 2 inch deep pan. Place the brisket on the onions.
he explains, but he says
4. Dice the last yellow onion into small pieces and mix it in a small mixing bowl with the chili sauce and mushroom powder. Smear the mixture on top of the brisket. Pour the water around but not on top of the brisket.
5. Tightly wrap the pan in aluminum foil and place in a 325° oven for 2½ hours.
makers have made the commitment to
6. Partially remove the covering and add the potatoes. recover and place back in the oven for another 30 to 45 minutes until the potatoes are cooked through.
source food locally in
7. remove the brisket from the oven and let rest for 10 minutes.
the JW marriott venues worldwide.
8. o nce the brisket has rested slice into ½ inch slices and place on a platter. add the onions, potatoes, and braising liquid around the brisket. Optional Garnish 4 compare tomatoes ½ small fennel bulb 3 cups arugula 1 teaspoon olive oil
Cut the tomatoes in half, shave the fennel very thin, and mix together with arugula, olive oil, and a touch of salt and pepper. on top in the very middle of the brisket, place the tomato arugula salad.
Wine Pairing: White: Murphy’s Law Rosé, Counoise, Pinot Noir, Grenache, WA 2008. Red: Lynfred, Syrah, Roselle, IL 2008 Photo by Grant Kessler
COMING TO AMERICA, A NEW FAMILY CUSTOM Baasim Zafar, executive Chef, The Drake Hotel
“ That’s what makes America great, the blend of tradition with ﬂ avors from our past.” – Chef Baasim Zafar
When I moved from England 10 years ago to Chicago, my parents would visit every Thanksgiving, for their “new” holiday. In my house at Thanksgiving we don’t have much use for the turkey, most Indians believe that it does not have any taste. Despite my years of trying to “convert” the parents to the turkey, chicken with spices is what it is. I have included this recipe for our alternative bird at Thanksgiving. I have perfected it over the years and on my recent month long trip in India added to the recipe. I have the pleasure of making at least 10 birds for family and friends. That’s what makes America great, the blend of tradition with flavors from our past. For the recipe I recommend using a free-range chicken that is no bigger than 2 pounds, this should feed about 2-3 people. ec The Drake Hotel, 140 East Walton Place, Chicago, IL 60611 312-787-2200 for more information: thedrakehotel.com 20
edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2011
Photo left © Subbotina | Dreamstime.com | Photo above by Grant Kessler
Chef Zafar knew at an early age that he didnâ€™t want to follow the traditional career path already forged within his family: doctors or engineers. he wanted to become a chef, which he says, was a clear deviation from the stereotypical expectations for someone of indian heritage. When he started his first job in the kitchen, washing dishes, he knew it would take his parents awhile to come around to his chosen field. Working his way up, achieving a world-class culinary education and experience, Chef Zafar has made his
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parents proud with his success.
During a month-long business trip to india, including a stop in his ancestral home, in the Uttar Pradesh province, Chef Zafar discovered new recipes and techniques, which included recipes prepared in a traditional Tandoori oven, an appliance now installed in The Drake hotelâ€™s kitchen. Because of this inspired initiative and the business plan behind the project, The Drake is now the first hotel in Chicago to prepare authentic in-house indian cuisine for social events; yet another milestone in the storied history of the Drake.
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Chef Zafar in India Photo courtesy courtesy of The Drake Hotel
Thanksgiving Tandoori Chicken
Chef Baasim Zafar
This recipe calls for a 2 stage marinating. Stage 1
lemon wedges for garnish
2 tablespoons ginger paste—very important that this is fresh and not jarred as the vinegar they use in preserving it is not good for flavor
red onion rings for garnish
2 tablespoons garlic paste—again, very important that this is fresh and not jarred 1 teaspoon Kashmiri chili powder or paprika make sure the chicken has all the skin off. make some deep slits in the breast and legs. This is to help the marinade get right into the chicken. mix the ginger, garlic, and chili powder together and rub all over the bird. Cover the chicken and let this sit overnight. Stage 2 1 cup greek yogurt 2 tablespoons cayenne pepper—less if you want less spicy 3 tablespoons corn oil 1 teaspoon garam masala—a “hot mixture” of indian spices which can be found in most spice shops 1 teaspoon ginger paste 1 teaspoon garlic paste
1. Drain the water from the first marinade. mix ingredients from Stage 2 and rub all over the chicken. let this marinate for 3 hours. 2. Preheat oven to 320° F. 3. Put the chicken on a roasting rack and bake for about 1 hour or until the internal temperature has reached 160° F. Brush with some melted butter. Serve with lemon wedges and red onion rings.
Editor’s note: You can make your own fresh ginger garlic paste.
Ginger Garlic Paste
Recipe adapted from allrecipes.com 4 ounces fresh ginger root, chopped 4 ounces fresh garlic, chopped 1 tablespoon olive oil 1. in a food processor, combine the garlic and ginger. Pulse to blend, adding small amounts of olive oil to facilitate the blending, until it makes a smooth paste.
½ teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons paprika 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons of melted butter
edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2011
Wine Pairing: White: L’Ecole No. 41, Chenin Blanc, Walla Walla Valley, WA 2009. Rosé: Lynfred Rosé, Grenache, Zinfandel, Roselle, IL 2009
Photo by Grant Kessler
Greg Hall of Virtue Cider with Seedling Farm Apples
Hard Cider in the Windy City
have inspired a growing number of farmers to add cider mills, especially in Michigan, Wisconsin, Ohio, and Indiana. Virtue Cider’s home base is in Southwest Michigan, where Hall owns a house. He plans to build a bottling facility and hopes to have his first draft cider, produced by a local winery, ready for Chicago bars and restaurants in early 2012, with bottled cider available the following year.
by Anne Spiselman
At press time, Hall was lining up sources for fruit. No easy task, both because of the quantities needed and because he’s going to start with English-style ciders made from heirloom bittersweet and bitter sharp apples—small, hard, ugly, with tannins that develop complex flavors—rather than the more familiar eating or cooking cultivars. He says the idea stemmed from a visit in 2000 to Maltings Pub in York, England with Goose Island’s brewers. “The pub was having a cider festival with about 40 farmstead ciders from all over England on tap,” he recalls. “I’d never tasted cider like that before.” He anticipates a repertoire of five to ten ciders, though he admits that once he gets going, he won’t want to stop and will undoubtedly experiment with different yeast strains, maceration, barrel aging, and other techniques.
When former Goose Island Brewery co-owner and brew master Greg Hall announced this spring that he was leaving the company his dad founded in 1988 and starting Virtue Cider, he not only sent shock waves through the craft beer world, he also raised the coolness factor of hard cider a notch or two. But, he’s not the first in recent years to want to restore this neglected stepsister of wine and beer to its rightful place in the United States. Not since colonial times through the mid-19th century, when it was the alcoholic beverage of choice for the commoner, has cider enjoyed such a resurgence. And where better than the Midwest, the stomping grounds of John Chapman (aka Johnny Appleseed) whose seed-grown apples were most suitable for cidermaking? Apple orchards have been mainstays for farmers for many decades, and factors ranging from the tough economy to the farm-to-table movement, Photo by Grant Kessler on location at Green City Market
To ease the wait for Virtue’s ciders, we found a handful of artisanal midwestern ciderists
whose products are available in Chicago now. The
kinds of apples and methods they use vary widely,
Charles and Milissa McGonegal founded AEppelTreow (pronounced: Apple True) Winery a decade ago, partnering with half-century-old Brightonwoods Orchard. Brightonwoods grows nearly 200 cultivars of heirloom apples and pears, and practices integrated pest management and sustainable agriculture. The winery is in a barn on the property and currently turns out 19 ciders, though McGonegal uses the term “cider” loosely to refer to any fermented apple beverage from a .5% to 24% alcohol. Like most ciderists, he makes a traditional draft cider: bright, dryish Barn Swallow (available in kegs or bottles), which is 5.8% alcohol and contains a mix of eating and cooking apples hand-harvested in September. It differs from Koan’s Scrumpy in several ways.
resulting in ciders for virtually every taste.
J.K.’s Scrumpy/Almar orchards Flushing, Michigan Fifth-generation apple grower Jim Koan says his ancestors made cider during the Civil War, but he sold most of Almar Orchards’ apples at below cost to large grocery store chains from the time he took over the business 35 years ago until 1998. That’s when he began to make hard cider from his apples, marketing it locally, because there wasn’t much competition and he hoped it would be more sustainable. With the addition of sales/distribution partner Bruce Wright, the demand for J.K.’s Scrumpy Hard Cider increased and it now gobbles up roughly 80% of Almar’s 40,000 annual bushels of 35 kinds of organic eating and cooking apples. The rest go to farmers markets, Community Supported Agriculture programs, U-Pick, and long-time patrons. Koan makes the amber, slightly sweet cider with a blend of apples—Northern Spy, Granny Smith, Gold Rush, and others—the blend varies depending on the time of year. Picked a bit green, they’re kept in controlled cold storage, but are ripened for a few days at room temperature to maximize flavor. After ripening, they are placed in a modern cider press that washes and brushes them, grinds them to a pomace, presses out the juice, and pipes it into a 300-gallon stainless steel tank to ferment slowly for six months to a year at 4550° F. For the most part, Koan relies on natural yeasts in the air, though occasionally he inoculates with Champagne yeast. When his “sixth sense” tells him the cider is ready, he racks it off the lees (siphons off the sediments), transfers it to a clean tank, leaving the sediment behind, which reintroduces oxygen and starts a second fermentation that lasts a month or two. Just before bottling (in 22-ounce bottles with beer caps), the cider spends five hours in a carbonation tank. “We originally used natural carbonation,” Koan says, “but the pressure was unpredictable and we had lots of exploding bottles.” Besides Scrumpy, Koan produces J.K.’s Solstice, which is released in early November and available through the end of the year. It’s spiced with organic cinnamon, vanilla, and maple syrup during the second fermentation, resulting in a slightly higher alcohol content (7 % as opposed to 6 %). He’s also working on a summer cider. The new cider, however, will require more apples than he can grow. This need could spark the formation of a new co-op of organic growers who are currently having trouble finding markets for all their apples. Koan says to look for the co-op in another year or two.
edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2011
The first fermentation, with wine yeast (dry in packets which slows the process and allows wild organisms to work) in 500-gallon stainless steel tanks, takes two-to-six weeks at about 65° F, and the second fermentation takes about three months. The cider is filtered several times, back sweetened with a bit of apple juice concentrate, and carbonated before bottling. Another product, Songbird cider, offers variations: cranberry-apple, strawberry-raspberry-apple, and spiced, as well as perry (cider made with pears). McGonegal also makes the complex Kinglet Bitter Draft Cider with a blend of English and French heirloom bittersweet and bitter sharp apples, among them Domaine, Frequin Rouge, Coat Jersey, and Dabinette. In addition, he’s experimented with special reserves—both single varietals and blends of heirloom apples—which “rest” for six months instead of three and are bottled with no back sweetening or forced carbonation. One of McGonegal’s most impressive innovations is his Champagne-method sparkling cider, inspired by French cider and historic Great Lakes ciders and available as Appely Brut (7.5% alcohol) and Appely Doux. The Brut features a less fruity blend of Jonathan, Russet, Golden Delicious, and historic English and French bittersweets. The initial process is similar to that used for the draft ciders, but after the second fermentation the cider is sweetened with sugar to set the carbonation level. It is then filtered and bottled in heavy punted Champagne bottles with a special yeast. It rests and re-ferments for at least four months, then the bottles are taken out of storage and tipped upside down so the yeast settles into the neck (called “riddling”). Next the yeast is disgorged (or expelled), the cider is topped off with more Brut and finished with a Champagne cork and wire safety hood. The Doux gets a sweet dosage of apple wine and apple juice concentrate, plus more Doux, after disgorging. McGonegal says the Doux sells better, but the delightful Brut was the first cider he made in 2001, prompted he quips, by “insanity.”
Photo © Richard Wood | Dreamstime.com
Vander mill Winery
Spring Lake, Michigan
Opened in 2006, Vander Mill Winery started making hard cider in 2008, and managing partner Paul Vander Heide, says production has doubled every year since—to a projected 15,000-20,000 gallons in 2011. All the fruit comes from Western Michigan orchards. What sets these ciders apart, is they are unfiltered and fermented with ale yeasts (rather than wine or Champagne): English ale yeast is used for all except seasonal (late spring and summer) Michigan Wit, which is made with Belgian ale yeast. The basic cider blend always includes Jonathan, Golden Delicious, Gala, McIntosh, Rome, and Empire apples. The primary fermentation is two-to-three weeks at 60-70° F. The cider gets a secondary fermentation of one-to-two weeks and then is allowed to rest in the tank for a month. After resting, it is back sweetened with a little sugar and then it goes into kegs—Vander Heide’s preferred way to test out ciders—and bottles. Created in 2009, aromatic Michigan Wit is dryer than the regular cider. It’s steeped with orange peel and crushed coriander during the second fermentation, which is typical of Belgian ales. It is designed, according to Vander Heide, “to show craft beer drinkers that cider isn’t just sweet fruit juice.” His other spiced ciders, made in small batches for specific bars and restaurants, include Cider Masala with an Indian black chai spice blend and macerated vanilla beans, and Totally Roasted with the mill’s own crushed cinnamon-roasted pecans and vanilla beans. Additional bourbon-barrel-aged experiments include Doubled Over, a cyser (a cider fermented with honey) which is dry-hopped with two kinds of hops right before being kegged which causes the “beer geeks to go ‘ooooh!’” and a still-unnamed brew that’s been fermenting with natural air-born yeasts in a barrel since last fall. It should be ready by the end of October.
South Haven, Michigan
Seedling owner Peter Klein, who grows 26 kinds of apples on about 17 acres, sells lots of fresh cider at Green City Market, but he also sends some to a winemaker. There it is fermented with Champagne yeast and finished with a little residual sugar and a stint in a carbonation tank. It is then bottled in 750 ml bottles with beer caps. The hard cider is a blend of tarter, mostly heirloom apples—Golden Russet, Golden Grimes, Mutsu—but Klein also has tried a different batch of two single varietals, specifically Golden Grimes and Golden Russet, each with its own “interesting flavor,” which he expects will be true of his macerated cider-juice mixed back in with apple pulp for 24 hours. It’s been bottled, but at press time he hadn’t yet tasted it.
Photo © Bluerabbit | Dreamstime.com
Lehman’s Orchard owner/manager Steve Lecklider has been farming fruit and selling it at farmers markets since 1992, but he didn’t start “dabbling” with wines and ciders until 2007. His specialty is juicy Honeycrisp Hard Apple Cider (7% alcohol; kegs and beer bottles) made with a blend of 75% Honeycrisp apples and 25% other eating and cooking cultivars—Jonathan, Empire, Macoun, Ida Red, McIntosh— from the more than 20 American, French, and British varieties he grows sustainably. Lecklider always starts with cold apples, which are hand sorted and washed, ground to a pomace and pressed. The juice is pumped into stainless steel fermentation tanks, tested for acidity and sweetness, and allowed to ferment to dryness with Champagne yeast at 55° F for two to three weeks. Next, it’s racked off the lees, usually into 275-gallon plastic tanks, where it combines with several smaller batches of the same kind of cider. It is then placed into cold storage for seven or eight months. After a second racking to filter out more sediment, it gets a little sugar for flavor and spends a week in a refrigerated, low-pressure CO2 tank before bottling. Lecklider’s fruit-flavored apple ciders start with a late-season blend of Winesap, Gold Rush, Johnny Gold, Ambrosia, Pink Lady, and whatever other variety of apple is available. Rather than adding blueberry, raspberry or cherry juice during the second fermentation like many ciderists, Lecklider actually floats mesh bags full of fruit in the cider during the initial fermentation for what he says is a “subtler, more rounded flavor.” Johnnyapple Hard Cider, available in bottles for the first time this fall, is a mix of late season apples without the other fruit.
Where to Find in Chicagoland J.K.’s Scrumpy/Almar orchards Flushing, Michigan www.organicscrumpy.com Binny’s Whole Foods Cost Plus Bars, such as: Bangers & lace Bad apple Kuma’s Corner
AeppelTreow Winery Burlington Wisconsin www.aeppeltreow.com West lakeview liquors
lehman’s orchard Niles, Michigan www.lehmansorchard.com gene’s Sausage Shop & Delicatessen marion Street Cheese market
Vander mill Winery Spring Lake, Michigan www.vandermill.com The Publican Three aces Five Star Bar Bar on Buena
Seedling South Haven, Michigan www.seedlingfruit.com Wine Discount Center lush City Provisions green grocer Province Vie
Anne Spiselman is one hard-core reporter, especially when the topic involves apples. Well versed in food, wine and their neglected stepsister, cider, she happily took on this assignment and tapped her sources for this article. She has written for most major news publications in Chicago. 26
edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2011
Photo © Christopher Elwell | Dreamstime.com
The Lake Effect by Monica Kass rogers
From Seed to Table
Serving Up Big Bowl’S CropS Marc Bernard’s chef coat is blindingly white against this bluesky, farm-field backdrop. He’d just as soon be in blue jeans and a t-shirt working down in the dirt with the farmhands, but Bernard is in chef-instructor mode today. He’s leading a team of line cooks, servers, dishwashers and busboys from Big Bowl in Schaumburg, Illinois up and down meandering rows of vegetables at the Heritage Prairie Farm. The farm is growing the vegetables for use in four of the restaurant’s Chicago locations. The summer foray to the La Fox, Illinois farm will be the first time many of the Big Bowl staff has done any kind of gardening. But the sweaty experience, weeding long rows of organic produce for several hours under the mid-morning sun, gives the staff a feeling of pride and ownership in the vegetables they’ll soon be serving at their restaurant. “It’s fun and gratifying just seeing where all the produce comes from,” says Paul Ceisel, a bartender participating in the fieldwork. “It will be cool telling people that I had a hand from beginning to end in the squash that we will be serving. It makes you feel good about the product.” “The program is working,” says Executive Chef Bernard, who gave birth to the idea of not just serving locally grown produce, but also contracting with farmer Bronwyn Weaver, to grow two acres of sustainable/organic crops. Crops that are grown from heirloom seeds, selected by Big Bowl, and cultivated on the farm with help from the restaurant staff. “Now, we’re serving more than 700 pounds of produce per week at each of the four Chicagoland locations,” says Bernard. To make this happen, line cooks and location chefs are required to Top photo by Grant Kessler | Bottom photo © Jubilist | Dreamstime.com
participate in the work on the farm each season. Other staff members, like servers, busboys, and dishwashers, are also invited to work on the farm and are paid for their time. “The staff goes to the farm on our time,” says Dan McGowan, president of Big Bowl, “which is our way of demonstrating the importance of this effort to them.” The produce from the farm is harvested in season and incorporated into the Big Bowl menu. Harvested first on the farm this summer and served at the restaurant was all the lettuce—Bibb, Red Cyrus, Hermosa and Winter Density Romaine. Next, garlic scapes came in, followed by Red Long of Tropea onions and sugar snap peas. The ingredients are used in menu staples for as long as the farm can supply them. “So, it’s not just for specials—it’s fully integrated,” explains Bernard. “The onions are used in dishes that call for onion, the snap peas are on the stir fry bar, and the lettuce is used for the prime Thai beef lettuce wraps.”
“ The staff goes to the farm on our time, which is our way of demonstrating the importance of this eff ort to them.” — Dan McGowan, President, Big Bowl
The 2011 crops are the first fruits of Big Bowl’s collaboration with Heritage Prairie. In preparation, Chef Bernard did extensive research, selecting heirloom seeds that would thrive in the soil and climate in La Fox and that would be a good fit with the Asian food niche. He also mapped out the growing season to determine when each type of produce would be harvested and how that progression would work on the menu. The nineteen inaugural crops include everything from lettuce, peas, garlic and onions, to green beans, bok choy, Napa cabbage, and sweet Hakurei turnips. While there’s no way to directly quantify the seedto-table program’s impact on sales, “What we do know is that guests who have asked about the farm relationship are excited about it,” says Dan McGowan. There’s also the flavor benefit. “Food just picked, that’s grown locally, tastes different from something that’s sat in cold storage and was picked before it was truly ready.” The passion shared by the Big Bowl staff for this farm-to-table program is evident in their dialogue with the restaurant guests. “You have to try the lettuce wraps! I was just out on the farm where we grow the lettuce, helping with the weeding, and that lettuce is delicious!” This goes a lot farther than the standard “Welcome to Big Bowl. May I interest you in an appetizer?” Guests are intrigued when they learn their server is knowledgeable about the produce and had a hand in growing the food they are now eating. “It’s a real conversation starter,” says McGowan.
edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2011
Photos by Grant Kessler
Big Bowl Farmers Market Vegetables and Chicken Stir Fry Serves 2 with rice as a complete meal, or 3-4 as part of a larger meal. This simple and elegant stir fry puts all the emphasis on the fresh ingredients from your local market. You can use any number of fresh vegetables that are at peak season. 8 ounces boneless chicken breast, diced 2 tablespoons cornstarch 1 teaspoon sesame oil plus a few drops 2 tablespoons oyster sauce 1 tablespoon light soy sauce 1 teaspoon sugar ½ cup chicken stock 1 cup peanut oil 3 small fresh shiitake mushrooms, sliced 1 teaspoon Chinese salted black beans 2 teaspoons Fresno chili peppers, julienne
“The guest understands the farm-to-table approach, but not the seed-to-table, because I think we are a little ahead of the curve with this [in the restaurant setting],” muses McGowan. “The seed-to-table is the next stage—something more involved. Few restaurants are mapping the growing season the way we have; [we’ve said] ‘here are the seeds we’ve chosen, because we want this particular vegetable, at this time in the season, and then, we want this afterwards.’” Bronwyn Weaver, who owns Heritage Prairie Farm, agrees the program with Big Bowl breaks new ground in the chef/farmer relationship. “What they’re doing is deeper than what we’ve seen in the last three to five years between chefs and farms,” she says. Due to the extent of Weaver’s contract with Big Bowl, which will push her supply limits this season, it is unlikely she will be in a position to work with another multi-location restaurant to provide their food. Still, there is room for other farmers to follow the Big Bowl/Heritage Prairie lead. “We hope this begins a trend in casual restaurants, so that everyone—not just those who can afford fine dining—has access to affordable, locally-grown, clean food,” Weaver concludes. ec
2 teaspoons fresh ginger, chopped 2 teaspoons fresh garlic, chopped ½ pound fresh vegetables, trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths 2 teaspoons cornstarch mixed into 2 tablespoons water
Monica Kass Rogers is a recipe sleuth. When not writing for Edible Chicago, she is restoring recipes of days gone by at LostRecipesFound.com. Her detective work has taken her on several off -beat journeys in the name of culinary history. She also writes for the Chicago Tribune.
1. Mix the chicken with the cornstarch and sesame oil, and set aside. 2. Combine the oyster sauce, light soy sauce, sugar, and chicken stock; set aside. 3. Heat 1 cup of oil in a wok, when hot add the chicken, cook, stirring, just until the chicken turns color. Remove to drain; reserve the oil. 4. Heat a wok over high heat. When hot, add 3 tablespoons of the reserved oil. Add the mushroom slices and cook, stirring until browned slightly and soft. Add the black beans, chili pepper, ginger, and garlic, and cook, stirring. Add the vegetables and toss until well coated in the seasonings. Add the oyster sauce mix and bring to a boil. Re-add the chicken and cook, tossing, until heated through. When the sauce boils, re-stir the cornstarch mixture and add. Cook over high heat until the sauce thickens slightly and clears. 5. Remove to a serving bowl and garnish with a few drops of sesame oil. Serve over or with jasmine rice.
Chicago Sommelier Elizabeth Mendez
UNCORKS a FeW MIDWEST SPARKLING WINES EC: Share with us some of your personal favorites from Midwest wineries.
elizabeth mendez, known in the culinary and oenophile (wine connoisseur) worlds marries what she calls “the enticing and tantalizing world of ﬂavor on the plate, in the glass, on the road and in business” on the blog, The Cook & The Corkscrew. partnered with husband and Chef mark mendez, together, they chronicle “the trials and tribulations of becoming an entrepreneur and opening a restaurant.”
L. MAWBY IN MICHIGAN This winery actually changed my view of local wines, and proved to me that they can in fact be great. The winery produces the L. Mawby line of products and also the M. Lawrence label.
L. Mawby Blanc de Blancs: Predominately Chardonnay;
Aromas of baked apples and pie dough, a bit more crisp on the palate. Perfect sparkling wine to pair with local fall food, this would pair well with a spiced butternut squash soup.
M. Lawrence Sex Rosé Brut: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay; Aromas of red currants and a touch of yeast. On the palate, pomegranate, cranberry, slightly nutty and quite delicate. Pairing: a great sparkling rosé with cured meats, specifically the Acorn Edition Spallacia from La Quercia. LYNFRED WINERY IN ILLINOIS Here’s a winery that fights the good fight every day for local wine. Illinois’ oldest and largest winery.
edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2011
Photo © Charlotte Lake | Dreamstime.com
Lynfred Sparkling Brut: Green apples, ginger, lemongrass: this sparkling wine makes me want to hit the Green Acres Farm stand at Green City Market for many of the Eccles family greens to sauté with onions and bacon to pair with this sparkling wine.
Lynfred Sparkling Brut Rosé: Strawberries, touch of
toasted spice. Sparkling wine and cheese is one of my favorite ways to end a meal (I’m not a dessert person). We (my husband Mark and I) are big fans of Judy Schad and Capriole Farmstead Goat Cheeses. To pick just one of Judy’s cheeses to pair is tough, because I’ve yet to have one I didn’t love but for the Lynfred Sparkling Brut Rosé I would pair Piper’s Pyramid, apples from Mick Klug Farms and Heritage Prairie honey.
EC: How did you decide to become a sommelier? EM: While financing my education at DePaul University, one of my first jobs—waiting tables in Chicago—I worked for a gentlemen from Sardinia, Italy where his passion for Italian wine made a huge impression on me. That job was where the food and wine bug hit. After years of self education and working with a few mentors in the wine business, some wine directors and Master Sommeliers, I realized being a sommelier was one of the many facets I wanted to incorporate into my career. Being a sommelier has also been inspiring, since my husband (and business partner) is a chef. EC: Tell us about your new venture with Mark. EM: Uva, meaning grape in Spanish, is a wine bar and restaurant in
the West Loop with Spanish cuisine, worldly wine. Whether we’re talking food, wine or beer the focus will be on quality, artisanal products, made and presented with great pride and care. While you won’t necessarily see farm names on the menu, we will of course have the same commitment to the farms we’ve worked with in the past, many of which you see at Green City Market. We will also be highlighting great beers from the Midwest, as they can be very food friendly especially with the cheeses you’ll find at our cheese bar. We’re very excited to be featuring wine on tap as well, for various reasons: environmentally friendly, freshness, quality and affordability. We’re hoping to open mid-October, while I enjoy the bounty that summer has to offer, seasonal foods of fall are really exciting to me and are some of my favorite to pair with beer and wine. ec
Editor’s note: You can find L Mawby sparkling wine at Marion Street Cheese Market in Oak Park, LUSH Wine and Spirits, Provenance, or purchase online: lmawby.com. Lynfred is at select Binny’s, LUSH Wine and Spirits, Whole Foods Markets, and available for purchase online. Stop by the winery’s Chicago area tasting rooms, for more information: Lynfredwinery.com As an alcohol-free option, Cedar Creek Winery of Cederburg, Wisconsin offers a Sparkling Grape Juice. No sugar added. Available: cedarcreekwinery.com.
Photo © Doublecat | Dreamstime.com
Garden Notes by LaManda Joy
Autumn Garden Checklist
Fall gardening may sound like an oxymoron… the days are getting shorter and the air a bit brisker and you may be ready for a break from your bounteous summer garden. But, there’s plenty you can do now to prepare for next year’s garden and extend the season for your cool season crops like lettuce, chard, kale and peas.
Amazingly, there are hundreds of types of garlic in the world. Several dozen varieties are available to the home gardener and ALL of them taste better than anything you can buy at the grocery store. If you’d like to try this fun garden addition, visit seedsavers.org for some great heirloom varieties.
BUILD A COLD FRAME
If you’re particularly enamored of that gorgeous heirloom tomato you grew this season, consider saving some seeds for next year. Not only will you save money by having the seeds on hand, but you’ll also be able to tell your friends about “your” tomato. One of my friends has “her” Black Krim she’s grown in her yard for eight years. She’s proud of that tomato! To learn more about seed saving: http:// urbanext.illinois.edu
A cold frame is essentially a box with no bottom and a clear top. A cold frame is used to keep your lettuce, chard, kale and other cool season crops going a month or so longer than they would without protection. We put our cold frames over some of our more tender herbs to protect them over the season. We dumpster dive for old windows and use them for the top. For great instructions on how to build a simple cold frame, try www.ehow.com and search: make cold frame.
PLANT GARLIC AND ONIONS Garlic and onions are planted like bulbs in the fall for a crop in the spring. For each clove of garlic or onion set you plant, you get a full head of garlic or a big onion. Plus, garlic and onions are a lovely addition to the spring garden. Garlic and onions need to be planted before it gets too cold. We usually do it around the first of November. 32
edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2011
MULCH MULCH MULCH! Soil is your garden’s most important asset. All those fall leaves are nutrients that can be converted to “garden gold” over the winter. Collect fallen leaves and mound them on your garden area. Cover with a burlap bag or some broken down cardboard boxes and top Photo © Olgalis | Dreamstime.com
with stones or bricks (to prevent the leaves from blowing away). Next spring, you’ll have partially decomposed plant material to enrich the soil. Composting made easy!
TAKE NOTE Spend half an hour this fall taking notes about what worked in your summer garden, what didn’t, and what you would like to try next year. You may think you’ll remember year-to-year, but you won’t. Documenting your “best practices” now will help kick-start your garden in the spring and will provide helpful advice to neighboring gardeners! ec
LaManda Joy is an expert gardener and is known in her neighborhood for her award-winning “Yarden”—a backyard edible garden oasis. She is also the founder of The Peterson Garden Project, a reclaimed Victory Garden from the 1940s, which now is a community hub and garden plot on Chicago’s north side. LaManda wants everyone to grow their own food… seriously.
Photo © Emilia Stasiak | Dreamstime.com
and Watch Your Business Grow!
email@example.com (708) 386-6781 www.ediblechicago.com
The Kitchen Files by Barbara Revsine
Veganopolis By George Black & David Stowell Agate Surrey, 2011, $20
It’s not often that a trip to the farmers market changes a person’s life. But as George Black, co-author of The Veganopolis Cookbook will attest, that’s precisely what happened to her. “An animal rights group was distributing a lot of information on factory farming and the industry’s inhumane treatment of animals,” she recalls. “By the time I finished reading it, I knew I’d never eat meat again.” As for the eventual shift to vegan, Black refers to it as a “natural progression.” For husband David Stowell, the shift was rockier. A trained chef, he studied at the Ritz-Escoffier School of French Gastronomy in Paris, and worked with a series of top chefs after graduation. Giving up cheese in general—and blue cheese in particular—was a sticking point. “It took time,” he admits. “But for George and myself, going vegan has broadened our culinary horizons.” A quick perusal of The Veganopolis Cookbook confirms Stowell’s assertion. In the soup section alone, the options range from Madras Style Sambar with Red Lentils to a Mexican Tortilla Soup and a Roman Vegetable Soup with Orzo Pasta. For anyone who thinks a vegan diet is limited and boring, it’s an eye opener. So are the
edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2011
authors, a husband-wife team who met in 1980 when they were both working as professional musicians. Thirty years later, George Black still looks somewhat counterculture. Maybe it’s the tattoos on her left arm, or the moderately spiky hairdo—nothing extreme, just a bit off beat. And then there’s her name, the one she adopted legally when she shed the Patricia Ann Elizabeth her parents gave her. “I was a fan of the 19th century female author who went by the pen name ‘George Sand,’’’ she explains. With a smile lighting up her face, she adds, “I adopted ‘George’ as a stage name, and after a while, everyone started to call me George. It was distinctive; I liked it, and I eventually went with it.” The duo relocated to Portland, Oregon and eventually opened Veganopolis Cafeteria. Despite the restaurant’s success, the business climate in Portland was less appealing than they thought it would be, and in 2008, they headed back to Chicago. In between scouting locations and business partners for a second restaurant, they decided to do a cookbook. A referral put them in touch with Doug Seibold at Agate Surrey in Evanston. The timing was good. Feedback from book distributors had alerted Seibold to the growing audience for vegan cookbooks. “A vegan diet is challenging,” Seibold observes. “While vegetarians can draw on familiar sources for protein like eggs and dairy products, vegans have to explore lesser known alternatives. Vegan cookbooks—Veganopolis included—make the shift easier.” Veganopolis focuses on four protein options: seitan, beans, nuts and soy. Because they’re made with unfamiliar ingredients, novices may find some of the recipes daunting. But once you take the plunge, the recipes provide enough guidance to make the prep a breeze. ec
Veganopolis Book Jacket Artowork: Courtesy of Agate Publishing
Simple Seitan Adapted from a recipe in The Veganopolis Cookbook by David Stowell and George Black 2 cups vital wheat gluten 2 teaspoons salt 1 tablespoon onion powder 2 teaspoons garlic powder 1 teaspoon white pepper 5 ¼ cups vegetable broth, divided 2 tablespoons olive, saﬄower or canola oil 1 tablespoon liquid smoke or tamari 1. in a bowl, stir together the vital wheat gluten and dry spices. 2. in a separate bowl, combine 1¼ cups of the vegetable broth, the oil and the liquid smoke or tamari. 3. Slowly add the liquid ingredients to the dry ingredients, stirring as you go. Stir with a spatula until a stiff dough forms. 4. on a clean surface, with lightly oiled hands, knead the dough firmly for 2-3 minutes. allow the dough to rest for 5 minutes. 5. Knead again 20-25 times, and then allow to rest for another 10 minutes. 6. in a saucepan over medium-high heat, heat the remaining 4 cups of vegetable broth to a boil. 7. Cut the dough into 2 inch chunks. 8. With a long spoon or tongs, add the dough chunks to the stock and boil for 1 minute. 9. reduce the heat to a simmer and cook the seitan for 45 minutes to 1 hour. 10. remove the seitan from the stock and allow the stock to cool. you may reuse the stock the next time you make seitan. it can be stored in the freezer until then. your seitan chunks are now ready to be used in a recipe. Cook’s Note: The longer you knead the dough, the chewier and less spongy the finished seiten will be. you may also reduce the 1¼ cups stock to ¾ cup to produce a slightly denser seitan.
WINE PAIRING: White: Fox Valley, Riesling, Fox River Valley, IL. Red: Lynfred, Tempranillo, Roselle, IL 2008
Photo © Stockstudios | Dreamstime.com
by Barbara revsine
The man Behind the Cookbook:
tell them there were four Thai restaurants within two blocks of my apartment,” Seibold recalls. “At that time, there was one Thai restaurant in all of St. Louis. Once I got a job, I started to explore the scene.” Twenty-five years later, Seibold is still exploring the scene. Picking up on a shared interest in Vietnamese cuisine, we scheduled a lunch interview at Pho Xe Tang, a restaurant often referred to as “Tank Noodle” in Chicago’s Uptown neighborhood. After choosing as many tasting dishes as possible from the voluminous menu, our conversation turned to his story. Seibold briefly considered a career in teaching, but it didn’t take long for him to realize he was more interested in writing than in teaching English. Work as a freelance writer came next, along with several jobs in publishing and the eventual decision to develop his own niche. By the time he launched Agate in 2003, Seibold knew he wanted to focus much of the company’s energy on the Midwest, in terms of both authors and subject matter. Agate purchased Chicago-based Surrey Books in 2006, which gave the company an imprint with a strong culinary component. Several of Surrey’s formats, notably the 1,001 series (1,001 Best Slow-Cooker Recipes, 1,001 Low-Fat Vegetarian Recipes) and the emphasis on nutrition and health, have been expanded since Agate bought the company. Surrey was actually so far ahead of the curve that when the company published its first vegan cookbook in 2004, the book was marketed as “vegetarian” because Surrey thought “vegan” cooking was too esoteric.
Doug Seibold is one of those lucky people whose livelihood is also his passion. At 48, he’s the founder/owner of Agate Publishing, an Evanston-based press responsible for a growing library of books, many of them food-focused, and some of them featured in Edible Chicago (The Puglian Cookbook by Viktorija Todorovska, Sweetness, by Sarah Levy). Agate’s corporate interest in food isn’t a coincidence. Seibold, slim physique aside, is a self-confessed foodie whose exploration of the local scene began when he moved to Chicago in 1986, a year after graduating from Washington University in St. Louis, Missouri. “One of the first things I did was to call my college friends and 36
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Seibold recently reversed the pattern by asking several authors to adapt earlier books for the expanding vegan market. Kelly Rudnicki’s Vegan Baking Classics and Venturesome Vegan Cooking by J.M. and Michelle Hirsch have both done well, and so has David Stowell and George Black’s The Veganopolis Cookbook. As lunch progressed, Seibold’s mastery of Asian dining techniques became increasingly apparent. In addition to being adept with chopsticks, he had no trouble wrapping softened rice papers around lettuce, rice noodles, fresh herbs, and a mix of grilled beef and shrimp. We spent a few minutes savoring the salmon and pineapple braised in an intensely flavorful caramel sauce made with nuoc mam (fish sauce) before shifting the discussion to the near future. Two books slated for November publication—Slow Cooker 101 and Vegan 101— Photo courtesy of Doug Siebold
are the first in Surrey Books’ new “101” series. Each provides home cooks of varying abilities with an “everything-you-need-to-know” guide to a specific topic, along with 101 contemporary, easy-on-the cook recipes. Midway Books, an imprint focused entirely on Chicago and the Midwest, debuts next spring. One of Surrey’s most recent publications, Good Eating’s Best of the Best, a collection of recipes from the Chicago Tribune edited by longtime food editor Carol Mighton Haddix, is virtually a prototype for the kind of books Midway will be doing. “It’s a relatively compact book,” Seibold observes. “The recipes are user-friendly, the full-color photos are superb, and the book’s roots are very ‘Chicago.’” With that, we finished the last of the shared banh mi sandwich,
Book jacket covers courtesy of Agate Publishing
wrapped up the interview, and headed back to the office. I spent much of the drive home planning a menu built around Good Eating’s Best of the Best. With options like butternut squash soup, Corner Bakery French toast, and pumpkin flan with gingersnap crust, the possibilities are as tantalizing as they are endless. ec Agate Publishing, Evanston, IL www.agatepublishing.com, Twitter: @AgatePublishing. Pho Xe Tang (Tank Noodles) 4953 N. Broadway, Chicago, IL 60640 773-878-2253 Barbara Revsine has profiled many cookbooks and their authors for Edible Chicago but this time she wanted to get the story behind many of the books. She is an expert cook and loves to check out any new title that reaches her kitchen.
THE edible SOURCE GUIDE The Edible Source Guide is a condensed listing of advertisers in this issue. Please support these fine businesses as they help bring Edible Chicago to our communities. Also, visit ediblechicago.com for a more detailed listing including addresses and social networking platforms.
AG R ITO U R I S M
Mint Creek Farm
Irv & Shelly’s Fresh Picks
Learn Great Foods
100% grass fed lamb, goat, beef and veal. Chicagoland farmers markets and phone/ online orders. 815-256-2202; mintcreekfarm.com
Year-round home delivery of fresh, local, organic food from independent family farms throughout the Midwest. Chicago land delivery. 847-4100595; freshpicks.com
St-Germain is the first liqueur in the world created in the artisanal French manner from freshly handpicked elderflower blossoms. St.germain.fr.com
Features organic and locally produced foods, beverages and specialty items. Free regular tasting events. 312-624-9508; greengrocerchicago.com
Marion Street Cheese Market
Escape on an adventure this fall! Culinary farm tours, retreats in the Midwest. Also offering FoodBooks® 886-2401650; learngreatfoods.com EVENTS + SERVICES
COUNTRY Financial insures your car, home and family. Also a proud presenting sponsor of the Chicago Farmers Markets, and the annual Country Chef Challenge event. 866-2686879. Countryfinancial.com; countrychefschallenge.com Second-Annual Chicago Food Film Festival 2011 Taste what you see on the screen! Don’t miss this three day film and food event. November 18-20. Chicagofoodfilmfestival.com FA R M S + C S A SHARE PROGRAMS
Montalbano Farms Small farm producing fresh, locally grown produce, fruit and herbs in Chicagoland. CSA Shares. 630-882-8008; Montalbanofarms.com
Prairie Fruits Farm and Creamery Illinois’ first farmstead cheesemaking facility. Handcrafted, small batch, artisan farmstead cheeses. 217-643-2314; prairiefruits.com FA R M E R S M A R K E T S
Garden Gate Farm Sustainable family farm. Pastured turkeys fresh or frozen. Available by special order. 815-692-3518; firstname.lastname@example.org
Jake’s Country Meats Pasture raised, natural pork without antibiotics. Phone/ online orders, Chicagoland farmers markets. 269-4453020; jakescountrymeats.com
Brian Severson Farms Year-round frozen organic corn on the cob. Fresh in season. Whole Foods Markets in Chicagoland. 815-584-1850; qualityorganic.com
Collins Caviar Family owned, exclusive producers of American Freshwater Caviar. Online orders, events, wholesale. 800715-4034; collinscaviar.com
Geneva Green Market Year round farmers market in Geneva, supporting local growers and artisans. 630-3770373; genevagreenmarket.org
Caveny Farm Family farm in Monticello, IL. Heritage breeds of turkeys, ducks, geese, and also lamb. Special orders and pick-up location in Chicago. 217-7627767; cavenyfarm.com
FOO D + B E VER AG E PRODUCTS
Green City Market Year round farmers market in Chicago, supporting local growers and artisans. 773-880-1266; chicagogreencitymarket.org FO O D D I S T R I B U T I O N
JDY Gourmet Custom distribution and marketing for local farms, food artisans throughout Chicagoland. 773-561-7539; jdygourmet.com LOC AL FOO D HOME DELIVERY
Door to Door Organics Home delivery service throughout Chicago of fresh organic produce boxes. Fresh from farmers you can trust. 877-711-3636; doortodoororganics.com
edible chicago | Fall Harvest 2011
Katherine Anne Confections Elegant, handcrafted truffles and caramels. Available online, markets and at events. 773-727-3248; katherine-anne.com
Koval Distillery Chicago’s first craft distillery sourcing all local ingredients from the Midwest. Single-grain white whiskeys, aged whiskey, brandies and liqueurs. 312-8787988; koval-distillery.com
Nordic Creamery Fine gourmet, artisan cheese and butter from Westby, WI. Available online or at Green City Market: 608-606-2585; nordiccreamery.com
River Valley Ranch and Kitchens
Green Grocer Chicago
Fresh from scratch, locally sourced take out specialty foods and beverages. Two north shore locations. 847-234-1805; wisma.us
Artisanal cheeses, wines, artisan food products, gift baskets and bistro. 708-725-7200; marionstreetcheesemarket.com
Pastoral Artisan Cheese, Bread and Wine
The Scrumptious Pantry Authentic foods with big taste from small farms. 301-979-9751; scrumptiouspantry.com
Small batch, high-quality cheeses, wines, artisan food products. Events, gift baskets, and sandwiches: 800-721-4781; pastoralartisan.com
N OT FO R P RO FIT
Slow Food Chicago
Provenance Food and Wine
“Come to the Table in 2011”. Dinner events, book club and more. Educational non-profit that values good, clear, fair food for everyone. Slowfoodchicago.org.
Two neighborhood Chicago specialty shops selling foods and beverages from local purveyors. 773-384-0699; provenancefoodandwine.com
The Olive Tap
PRODUCTS + SERVICES
Urban Worm Girl Let “Worms Eat Your Garbage” Learn the benefits of worm composting. Workshops and supplies. 773-355-4804; urbanwormgirl.com
Gourmet market, olive oils and specialty vinegars. Available online or at stores. Two Chicagoland locations: 888-642-5472; theolivetap.com R E TA I L E R S
Eileen Fisher, Sustainability in Design.
S P E C I A LT Y R E TA I L F O O D S TO R E S
Dirk’s Fish and Gourmet Shop Chicago’s premiere sustainable fish and seafood shop. Events, demos and cooking classes. 773-404-3475; dirksfish.com
Clothing with a mission. Three Chicagoland locations: Highland Park, Chicago at Gallery 37 and Water Tower Place; eileenfisher.com
Hand-crafted salsas, bruschetta, dips, mushrooms, soups, more. Online, wholesale, farmers markets. 888-711-7476; rivervalleykitchens.com
Photo © Seregam | Dreamstime.com
EAT LOCAL, DINE LOCAL LISTING The following eating establishments are committed to sourcing locally and seasonally from regional growers, family farmers and purveyors whenever possible. The business names listed in green are certified by the Chicago Certified Green Restaurants® association and practice environmental sustainability. The green fork after eprthe name resents membership to The Green Chicago Restaurant Co-op.
B U C K TOW N
NEAR NORTH SIDE
C-House Restaurant at Affinia Chicago Hotel
Seasonal, American cuisine with influences of the Mediterranean
Innovative American cuisine featuring high quality, locally sourced menu
500 N. Clark St., Chicago, IL 312-321-6242; naha-chicago.com
28 E. Center Ave., Lake Bluff, IL 847-295-1000; inovasi.us
Osteria Via Stato
Seasonally prepared, locally sourced Italian dishes and fine wines
Duke’s Alehouse & Kitchen
Locally sourced, seasonal with Mediterranean roots 2152 N. Damen Ave, Chicago, IL 773-862-5555; thebristolchicago.com E D G E W AT E R
Uncommon Ground Local, seasonal, organic menu and entertainment 1401 W. Devon Ave., Chicago, IL 773-465-9801; uncommonground.com G O LD COA ST
Signature Room on the 95th Fresh, seasonal menu with a dazzling skyline view 875 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 312-787-9596; signatureroom.com
Fresh, local ingredients. American cuisine, large raw bar and rooftop lounge. 166 E. Superior St., Chicago, IL 312-523-0923; c-houserestaurant.com
David Burke’s Primehouse David Burke’s Primehouse is a modern American steakhouse with an eclectic and innovative style to the menu, focusing on seasonal, local and organic ingredients. James Hotel, 616 N Rush St., Chicago, IL 312-660-6000 davidburkesprimehouse.com
Old Town Social Unpretentious, eclectic menu, hand-made charcuterie
L I N C O L N PA R K
455 W. North Ave., Chicago, IL 312-266-2277; oldtownsocial.com
Kingsbury Street Café
Local and fresh. Pastries and breads made in house. American/Vietnamese/ Vegetarian menu. Open for breakfast, brunch, lunch. 1523 N. Kingsbury St., Chicago, IL 312-280-1718; kingsburystreetcafe.com L I T T L E I TA LY
Browntrout Eco-Friendly, using sustainable farmed and/or organic products 4111 N. Lincoln Ave., Chicago, IL 773-472-4111; browntroutchicago.com N O RTH LOO P
Three Aces Italian Countryside meets the American Farmer, using seasonal ingredients. 1321 W. Taylor St., Chicago, IL 312-243-1577 threeaceschicago.com
Farm-to-table menu with cuisine inspired by Central America and Spain 161 N. Jefferson St., Chicago, IL 312-669-9900; provincerestaurant.com
620 N. State St., Chicago, IL 312-642-8450; osteriaviastato.com
The Purple Pig House-made charcuterie, cheese, classic Meditteranean fare 500 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 312-464-1744; thepurplepigchicago.com WE ST LOO P
110 N. Main St., Crystal Lake, IL 815-356-9980; thedukeabides.com WEST
Marion Street Cheese Market Eco-friendly bistro featuring American dishes sourcing organically, locally 100 S. Marion St., Oak Park, IL 708-725-7200; marionstreetcheesemarket.com
Piccolo Sogno Fresh, seasonal rustic Italian fare, House-made pastas 464 N. Halsted St., Chicago, IL 312-421-0077; piccolosogno.com W I C K E R PA R K
The Bedford Local kitchen and bar. Contemporary American cuisine with German and Southern influences. Craft beers and wine selections. 1612 West Division, Chicago, IL 773-235-8800 bedfordchicago.com WRIGLEYVILLE
Uncommon Ground Local, seasonal, organic menu and entertainment 3800 N. Clark St., Chicago, IL 773-929-3680; uncommonground.com
Photo © Robyn Mackenzie | Dreamstime.com
Farm-to-table sourced, local and organic American menu
If your restaurant is sourcing local food, isn’t it time you let our readers know? Contact us today to advertise in Edible Chicago’s Dine Local Listing: 708-386-6781. Email: email@example.com.
The Last Bite
The Hot Dog
Pictured here are house-made, locally sourced gourmet sausages from Lincoln Park’s Franks ‘N’ Dawgs where owner Alex Brunacci and Chef Joe Doren have taken the Chicago style hotdog street-food cuisine and elevated it to fine dining on a bun. Franks ‘N’ Dawgs, 1863 N Clybourn St. Chicago, IL 60614 312-281-5187
This past summer, two of Chicagoland’s biggest food corporations, Sara Lee and Kraft Foods, were embroiled in a lawsuit over which one held the title of top dog. In the federal courtroom drama, billed as the “Wiener Wars,” both sides duked it out over claims of false advertising yet ended up settling out of court, with undisclosed terms. If the bone of contention was about who’s misleading whom then it seems all parties are missing the point when it comes to the best interest of the consumer. Shouldn’t we be more focused about what’s in the casing—where the ingredients came from rather than how the hot dog is marketed? Franks ‘N’ Dawgs in Chicago’s Lincoln Park neighborhood is one joint where the chef makes hot dogs and sausages fresh daily and has a direct link to the farmers that provide the meat. 40
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Both photographs on location at Frank ‘N’ Dawgs by Dan Fisher.
Published on Jan 26, 2014