No. 42 Sept/Oct | Cooks 2015
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CONTENTS cooks issue 8
Hers and hers must-have kitchen tools.
Mongers Market + Kitchen.
60 at HOME
Austin Men’s Cooking Club.
COOKS at home
what we’re DRINKING
14 Danny Palumbo
18 Barbara Chisholm
Unprocessed—A Q&A with Megan Kimble.
Natural skin care.
hip girl’s guide to HOMEMAKING
Chief Art Acevedo
Ben Runkle and Natalie Davis
cooking BASICS 45 Ragù alla Bolognese 50 Flour Tortillas 54 Gumbo
COVER: Oysters at Mongers Market + Kitchen by Alison Narro (page 40).
58 Bulgogi Ssam
Proceeds support the historic Paramount Theatre and Mobile Loaves & Fishes
PUBLISHER Marla Camp
Edible Austin Eat Drink Local Week and the Paramount Theatre present
THE FABULOUS BEEKMAN BOYS Sunday, November 29 • 7 p.m. AT THE PARAMOUNT THEATRE
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Jenna Northcutt
EDITOR Kim Lane
ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Dawn Weston
Join us for an entertaining evening with Dr. Brent Ridge and Josh Kilmer-Purcell —two city guys who bought a farm in upstate New York where they’ve got 80 goats, two pigs, a dozen chickens, a narcissistic llama—and “a whole lotta drama.” Though farming “ain’t easy,” these two make it fabulous and they’re ready to share their stories with us.
ABOUT JOSH AND BRENT: Less than five years after buying The Beekman Farm, Brent and Josh have won the Amazing Race 21, have a hit TV show, bestselling books, product lines in leading retailers (Beekman 1802), a massive social following and a James Beard-nominated lifestyle website. Josh Kilmer-Purcell is a New York Times bestselling author of three books, and has been an award-winning creative director at several major advertising agencies. His first memoir, “I Am Not Myself These Days,” has been optioned for series development by Bravo television network. Dr. Brent Ridge was a geriatrician at Mount Sinai Hospital, and later became the vice president of health and wellness at Martha Stewart Omnimedia, making regular appearances on The Martha Stewart Show.
ALSO FEATURING AN AFTER-SHOW FARMERS ARTISAN MARKET! VIP*: $100; General Admission: $30; Student: $20 For tickets, visit austintheatre.org or call 512-474-1221 *VIP Reception VIP tickets include a preshow reception with Brent and Josh from 6–7 p.m., featuring local food tastings from Barlata, Café Josie, Hoover’s Cooking and Lenoir, along with wines from Barcelona Cellers, local craft beer and Tito’s Handmade Vodka cocktails.
About Edible Austin Eat Drink Local Week: Nov. 28–Dec. 5 2015 Eat Drink Local Week (EDLW) invites you to support locally sourcing restaurants and cook meals throughout the week entirely with local ingredients. Edible Austin will be at farmers markets to encourage home cooking with farm-fresh ingredients and we'd love for you to join us there and at our special events throughout the week. EDLW benefits Mobile Loaves & Fishes. For more information, visit edibleaustin.com/eatdrinklocal
Anne Marie Hampshire
EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Melinda Barsales, Dena Garcia, Angela Chapin Holt, Michelle Moore
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Susanna Cassady
ADVERTISING SALES Curah Beard, Valerie Kelly
DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Leary Kelly
ADVISORY GROUP Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Carol Ann Sayle
CONTACT US Edible Austin 1411 A Newning Ave., Austin, TX 78704 512-441-3971 firstname.lastname@example.org edibleaustin.com Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $30 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2015. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.
GET YOUR PADDLES UP.
Join our live auction battle for a chance to...
TAKE HOME A CHEF!
October 8, 2015
Charity event benefiting Sustainable Food Center & Urban Roots
Thanks to our Sponsors
TICKETS AND MORE INFO: edibleaustin.com/chefauction
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BENEFITING THE UNITED WAY OF COMAL COUNTY
GRUENEMUSICANDWINEFEST.ORG • Speakers • Vendors • Demos • Kids Crafts • Music • Food •
notable MENTIONS SIP AND SIZZLE IN DOWNTOWN BRYAN Historic downtown Bryan plays host to the 9th annual Texas Reds Steak & Grape Festival, presented by the Downtown Bryan Association on September 26–27. The festival features over 20 Texas wineries, a myriad of craft beer breweries, more than 30 bands performing on five different stages, the annual steak cook-off, the popular Kids Zone and a variety of food vendors. Visit texasredsfestival.com for details.
FARM & FOOD LEADERSHIP CONFERENCE Get the latest news about sustainable farming and local foods while connecting with other people who are passionate about these issues at the 9th annual Farm & Food Leadership Conference on September 25–26 in Bryan/College Station. This unique conference
FREE JOHN and FLORENCE NEwmaN foundation the
Sat, Nov 7, 10am–4pm Dripping Springs, TX
FREE A DMI SSI O N
food. Whether you are a farmer, consumer, chef, local foods business owner or nonprofit advocate, you will find useful information and tools to help support the growth of the local and sustainable food movement. Plus, you will enjoy a delicious local lunch each day prepared by Chef Jesse Griffiths of Dai Due. Presented by Farm
A HILL COUNTRY ALLIANCE EVENT
Cow Creek GCD, KTD, HEB, Lakota Water, Mitchell Foundation, HCA (most prominent)
focuses on the policies and regulations affecting our farms and our
& Ranch Freedom Alliance and Council for Healthy Food Systems. Go to farmandranchfreedom.org for more information and tickets.
FOUR DAYS, FOUR DISTINCT EVENTS AT THE GRUENE MUSIC & WINE FESTIVAL Step back in time and visit the authentically preserved Gruene Historic District located along the banks of the spring-fed Guadalupe River. The Gruene Music & Wine Festival, October 8–11,
Information for Sponsors and Exhibitors at:
continues a 29-year-old Central Texas tradition of celebration. During the four-day festival, enjoy the best of Texas music and feast on German and New World food, wines and specialty beer. Visit gruenemusicandwinefest.org for details.
DIVING FOR PEARLS Pearl Dive, Rude Mechs’ annual foodie fundraiser, stays close to home this year! The Sunday, October 18 event benefiting Austin’s adventurous theater collective will be hosted at Mongers Market + Kitchen at 2401 E. Cesar Chavez Street. In traditional Pearl Dive fashion, the event will be a drink-filled, Gulf Coast-style seafood feast of grilled red snapper, grouper, cobia, shrimp and oysters, plus a raw bar with boiled shrimp and whatever else the fishermen bring in that week. Some of Austin’s finest chefs will be cooking at the event with Mongers’ own Chef Shane Stark at the helm and co-proprietor Roberto San Miguel at the door. Tickets go on sale September 1. All proceeds from Pearl Dive support Rude Mechs programming and The Off Center. Visit rudemechs.com for more information. 8
LOCATIONS ACROSS THE AUSTIN AREA! (512) 366- 8260 • SPECSONLINE.COM
Cheers to Savings!
W I N ES · S P I R I TS · F I N E R FO O DS
RAISE YOUR GLASS FOR ART EDUCATION The 26th annual La Dolce Vita Food and Wine Festival, presented by The Contemporary Austin, is returning to Laguna Gloria on Thursday, October 15, from 7 to 10 p.m., featuring special tastings from top restaurants and wineries. Proceeds benefit The Contemporary’s innovative education programs, which serve thousands of children and adults each year. Visit thecontemporaryaustin.org for more information and tickets.
Sept. 26 & 27
RAISING GREEN FOR GREEN CORN PROJECT Green Corn Project has been transforming unused land into thriving vegetable gardens for 17 years. Come celebrate and help raise funds for the volunteer-run, grassroots organization at their annual Fall Festival, Sunday, October 25, at Boggy Creek Farm. Eat your way through an amazing lineup of local restaurant and beverage vendors while listening to live music and perusing a silent auction. Go to greencornproject.org to purchase tickets.
& D I N N E R
BOOKPEOPLE AND EDIBLE AUSTIN PRESENT TONI TIPTON-MARTIN Award-winning food and nutrition journalist Toni Tipton-Martin signs and discusses her newly released book, “The Jemima Code: Two Centuries of African American Cook-
books,” at BookPeople on Thursday, September 24 at 7 p.m. Her collection of over 300 African American cookbooks has been exhibited at the James Beard House, and she has twice been invited to the White House
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to participate in first lady Michelle Obama’s programs to raise a healthier generation of kids. Tipton-Martin is a founding member of the Southern Foodways Alliance and Foodways Texas. Visit edibleaustin.com for details.
IN CELEBRATION OF FERMENTATION From bread and cheese to chocolate and coffee, many of your favorite foods are most likely fermented. Fermentation makes food more nutritious, as well as delicious. Benefiting the Texas Farmers Market Farmer Emergency Fund, the Austin Fermentation Festival will be held on October 25, from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. at Barr Mansion and will include workshops, local fermentation artisans and vendors, a culture swap, kraut mob, artisan lunch, craft beverages and more. Keynote speaker is author and blogger Jennifer McGruther (”Nourished Kitchen”). Visit texasfarmersmarket.org for tickets and more information.
FREDERICKSBURG FOOD & WINE FEST Celebrate Texas food and wine culture at the 25th anniversary of the Fredericksburg Food & Wine Fest on Saturday, October Mention this ad for
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24. Held in historic downtown Fredericksburg on Marktplatz, the event will include Texas food, wine, beer, music, specialty booths, food court and fun for all. This year will also feature Friday’s Celebration of Texas Food & Wine, Saturday’s Patron Party on Marktplatz and 25 at 5, where 25 guests will have the opportunity to meet Chefs Josh Raymer and Frances Money and taste a special menu. Visit fbgfoodandwinefest.com for tickets and schedule.
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on the LEGE 84TH LEGISLATURE LETHARGIC The Texas Legislature adjourned for its year-and-a-half hibernation on June 1, confounding many observers who expected a productive ses-
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sion after Republicans secured historic majorities in both the House of
of the Texas Tribune’s Ross Ramsey, “small visions and small results.”
Representatives and the Senate. Unlike the fireworks of 2013, the 84th Legislature was a relatively staid affair characterized by, in the words While Democrats breathed sighs of relief that some controversial topics were left on the back burner, many bills that would have strengthened Texas’ food system also fell victim to the Legislature’s inertia. Despite the support of both the Austin-based Sustainable Food Center and the Capital Area Food Bank, House Bill (H.B.) 1616, which would have provided incentives for SNAP (formerly known as food stamps) recipients to shop at farmers markets, was left languishing in the House Agriculture and Livestock Committee. Similarly, bills that would have encouraged farm-to-cafeteria initiatives and eased some of the regulations faced by small-scale and organic farmers also failed to emerge from committee. Heavy-hitters in the public health world also came up short. Of the 26 bills that the Michael and Susan Dell Center for Healthy Living supported, only one became law—schools are now allowed the option to develop and implement locally-funded programs to provide free or reduced-price school breakfast instead of utilizing the national school breakfast program. The most frustrating moment of the session, however, occurred on May 15, when a bill by Rep. Eddie Rodriguez (D-Austin) that would have provided incentives for grocery stores to open in underserved “food deserts” appeared to have passed the House by a vote of 69-67, only to fail 64-67 when the vote was re-counted. Despite setbacks for proponents of sensible food policies, the 84th Legislature was not without its bright spots. Two tea party-backed freshmen, Sens. Lois Kolkhorst (R-Brenham) and Brandon Creighton (R-Conroe), showed an interest in supporting both family farms and conservation stewardship programs. Creighton, a no-nonsense rancher, revealed a soft spot for small-scale beekeeping and championed a successful bill that allows beekeepers to market value-added products directly to consumers without having to jump through the regulatory hoops to which larger producers are subject.
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Similarly, Sen. Eddie Lucio (D-Brownsville) and Rep. John Cyrier (R-Lockhart) succeeded in passing Senate Bill (S.B.) 1978, which bolstered “Hunters for the Hungry,” a program that donates venison to food banks that would otherwise be unable to offer lean protein options to their patrons. While a genuine coalition in support of sensible food policies failed to coalesce during the 84th Legislature, the champions of “Hunters for the Hungry”—a Democrat representing a district with
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high levels of obesity and a Republican representing a district replete with small farms and hunting enthusiasts—offered a glimpse into the kind of partnerships that need to occur if the 85th Legislature, which convenes on January 10, 2017, is to be more successful than its predecessor. — Alex Canepa
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COOKS at home
DANNY PALUMBO BY ST EV E W I LSO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R
had to drunk-dial my mom for the ratio of shell to
Jesus mug with coffee. “It’s also ripe for comedy.”
filling on these things,” says Austin comic Danny
On a lark last year, he and his chef brother, Anthony
Palumbo as he sips wine from a Jesus coffee mug.
(“He turned me on to parsley stems,” Palumbo confides), cre-
The 30-year-old is talking about his family’s manicotti recipe
ated a parody website for Lil’ Buco, a pretentious pretend
while he thunks thick clumps of the cheese and meat mix-
restaurant for kids with fare such as “SpaghettiO’s gazpacho,
ture into shells he made from scratch. He rolls them with the
rustic cracker.” They followed with Abbrev’s—another ficti-
cool and steady hand of someone comfortable in the kitch-
tious gastrophenom specializing in portions so small that it
en—someone comfortable enough to ignore the grease marks
serves micro-entrees of tuna on quarter teaspoons and tacos
on the wall from a recent Cuisinart explosion. Funny thing
on toothpick skewers. They’re planning another eatery that
about this recipe: His Italian grandmother always made it for
lampoons fusion cuisine. (“We’re white chefs co-opting your
Thanksgiving, but she actually got it from Palumbo’s other
culture’s food.”) So far, the sites have hit more than a million
grandmother, who was mostly Polish. “My mom told me that
views, and the brothers have been approached to host a po-
the other day,” he says, “and I’m like, ‘Are you kidding me? It
tential food travel show.
didn’t even come from an Italian?’”
But for all that, Palumbo doesn’t want to be known as “the
Palumbo has seen the humor in food since he jumped
food guy.” At the same time, he doesn’t mind his growing rep-
from dishwasher to cook at a “sloppy red-sauce joint” when
utation as the comic who makes early dinner for other Austin
he was 15. “It was the kind of place where the placemat is a
comics every Sunday night. They show up at 5 p.m. and leave
map of Italy and hey, there’s Frank Sinatra’s headshot,” he
by 8 p.m. to hit the stage at places like Cap City Comedy Club.
says. Some of his earliest material doing stand-up in his na-
Palumbo sees his get-togethers as a way to do his part for the
tive Pittsburgh revolved around food. “People ask me how
stand-up community, which has given him much support and
to make risotto. I say be yourself.” By the time he made an
inspiration. Granted, he’d never get sappy enough to admit
impulse move to Austin for its comedy scene four years ago,
that in front of them when they show up for the manicotti.
some of his best routines delved into the mysteries of restau-
Comedian Eric Krug walks in and Palumbo immediately lays
rant chains: “Every time I go into a Subway I ask myself, ‘Why
into him for bringing his own bag of ice. “Eric, you’re the god-
is this sandwich wet?’”
damn worst.” “You always run out,” Krug responds, taking it
The line between food and comedy in Palumbo’s life is
in stride. “Danny’s the hot kid in town right now,” he adds,
as thin as the window between a setup and a punch line. He
“but he’ll get his.” Then he retires to a whiteboard hung in the
spends his days doing a little of this and a little of that at
dining room where he draws a butt blowing a fart cloud.
Quality Seafood and his nights doing stand-up. He’s known
The comics pile the food onto mismatched plates and grab
to rush home after one of his regular hosting gigs at “Live at
seats. Naturally, everybody starts doing scenes from “Good-
ColdTowne” and Spider House Ballroom’s “Jazz Cigarette”
fellas” and other mob movies. Then, they break into the mag-
to check on a beef stock he’s left on the stove all day. In May,
nificent apple pie brought by Aaron Brooks, Palumbo’s “Jazz
he won the grueling stand-up marathon that is the “Funniest
Cigarette” co-host. Normally, the group would leave by 8
Person in Austin” contest and spent the prize money on tor-
p.m. to perform at any club willing to have them on a Sunday
tellini. And he sounds just as excited about making an even-
night, but because the May rainstorms have shut down most
tual comedy album as he does about creating his own pork-
places, they’re stuck here together. Palumbo’s fine with that.
fat tomato roux. “Food is my life experience, and I have a
“All my friends are comedians now,” he says. “I don’t know
natural passion for it,” he says as he replaces the wine in the
DANNY PALUMBO’S “FAKE ITALIAN, POLISH GRANDMOTHER’S” MANICOTTI Serves 8–10
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For the sauce: 1 /³ c. olive oil 1½ c. finely chopped onion 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 can (2 lb. 3 oz.) tomatoes, undrained 6 oz. can tomato paste 2 t. chopped parsley 1 t. salt 1 t. sugar 1 t. dried oregano 1 t. dried basil ¼ t. pepper ½ c. water Heat the oil and sauté the onion and garlic for 5 minutes. Mix in the rest of the ingredients, mashing the tomatoes with a fork. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat. Simmer the mixture, covered, and stir occasionally for 1 hour. For the filling: 1 TB olive oil 1 medium-size yellow onion, finely chopped ½ lb. each ground veal, beef and pork A big handful or two of spinach, chopped 1 t. salt ¼ t. pepper 2 lb. ricotta cheese 8 oz. mozzarella cheese 1 /³ c. grated Parmesan cheese 2 eggs 1 t. chopped parsley Caramelize the onion in a bit of olive oil, then add the meat and sauté until browned. Add the spinach, salt and pepper and cook until the spinach wilts. Remove from the heat and chill for a few hours. In a large bowl, blend the other ingredients with a wooden spoon. Add in the cooled meat mixture. For the shells: 6 eggs 1½ c. flour ¼ t. salt 1½ c. water Combine the eggs, flour and salt. Add the water gradually and “whisk the hell out of it.” Let stand at least half an hour. Into a hot pan coated with cooking spray, pour enough batter to make an 8-inch-wide shell. Cook and flip “like you’re making flour and egg omelets.” Repeat to make 8 shells total. To assemble: ¼ c. Parmesan cheese Heat the oven to 350°. Spread ¼ cup of the filling down the center of each shell and roll. Spoon 1½ cups of tomato sauce each into two 12-by8-inch baking dishes. Place the rolled shells, seam-side down, in a single layer into each baking dish. Top with more sauce and sprinkle with the cheese. Bake uncovered for ½ hour or until bubbly.
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COOKS at home
BARBARA CHISHOLM BY RO B I N C H OT Z I N O F F • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R
t 3 p.m. on the afternoon of a 7 p.m. dinner party, ac-
a shot of Deep Eddy Ruby Red Vodka over ice—topping it
tress Barbara Chisholm is as relaxed and informal as
off with Topo Chico and a squeeze of lime. Re-energized,
her dining table appears not to be. Not at first. Not
she dices onions, melts butter and trusses the chicken—all
with all that china and crystal inherited from her mother
while leading a wide-ranging discussion about the creative
Gloria, whose 1930s portrait depicting her in full southern
process. “Doing your art strictly for money is horrible,” she
ingénue attire seems to supervise the table. “My mom was a
pronounces. “It eats away at you. I always say: Me and Julia
great entertainer,” Chisholm says. “She believed in setting the
Roberts both get to pick what we want to do next—for exactly
table first, before you start cooking. As a kid, I used to love
putting out all her fancy stuff. She had individual ashtrays at
Chisholm isn’t a movie star, in other words, but her
each setting, with ‘C’ for Chisholm engraved on them. Fancy!”
20-plus-year career in Austin, most notably at the Zach The-
Fancy stuff didn’t guarantee a fancy life. The Chisholms—
ater, has been one of almost nonstop verve and substance.
mother, father and six children—were a military family, con-
Whether portraying Molly Ivins in the one-woman “Red Hot
stantly on the move, making new friends, inviting people for
Patriot” or spending 12 years filming a very visible support-
dinner. “No matter where we were stationed—Goose Bay
ing role in Richard Linklater’s “Boyhood,” she manages to be
freakin’ Labrador!—my mother would make enchiladas,”
an Austin actress without being pigeonholed as local talent.
Chisholm says. “She’d have tortillas shipped in from Texas! The
At the moment, she’s between jobs. “This is rich to me, this
last eleven years of her life she lived with us, and every once in
fallow time,” she says. “I like having a personal life. I like
a while, she’d need her Mexican food fix and we’d go to Polvos.”
balance. You need balance, right? I mean, we’re all cobbling
Gloria Chisholm died three years ago, but her cook-
together a living, and….” Her phone interrupts. “Everyone
ing-for-company philosophy—fancy yes, fussy never—lives
shut up! It’s my agent! Wow!” She ducks around the corner
on. This afternoon, Barbara sets the table for four—herself,
for a short, animated whisper. (Yes, she can do an animated
her husband (Austin Chronicle Arts Editor Robert Faires),
whisper.) “Arrrgh, I can’t talk about it,” she says, when the
plus husband and wife playwrights Steven Dietz and Allison
call concludes. “Not yet. But it’s exciting. Very.”
Gregory. That accomplished, she gets to work on the menu:
And now back to the chicken, an exciting possibility in
an appetizer of gougères, followed by roasted root vegetables,
its own right. “Do I have a name for it? Sure,” she says. “How
green salad and roast chicken, with profiteroles for dessert.
about ‘AWESOME?’ I would totally order this for my last din-
“And, of course, I’ll offer cocktails,” Chisholm adds. “When
ner on Death Row.”
can we have a cocktail, by the way? I mean, look at these cock-
Epilogue A: With the chicken in the oven and the kitch-
tail glasses—aren’t they too freakin’ much?” A gift from her
en straightened up, Chisholm took her dog for a leisurely
husband, the vintage midcentury highball glasses are freakin’
walk, because after all, the table was set, the vegetables were
perfect, as is the Don-Draper-era bar cart where they rest until
prepped, the sink drink was poured and she still had plenty
called up for active duty. “I also got the sexiest refreezable ice
of time. When her dinner guests arrived, she realized she’d
cubes,” she remembers. “2014 was kind of a Cocktail Christmas.
forgotten to cook the roasted vegetable side dish. In the end,
Hmmm…you know what else my mother advised? When you’re
dinner was served an hour later than planned, but with the
getting ready for a party, always have a ‘sink drink’ on hand.”
bar cart handy and the conversation sparkly, who cared?
Gloria Chisholm defined a sink drink as an adult beverage
Epilogue B: Chisholm got the role her agent called
consumed discreetly by a home chef, strictly to settle her
about—playing the late columnist Erma Bombeck in a
nerves. “You don’t use a fancy glass. A coffee cup is good.
one-woman show at Arena Stage in Washington, D.C. The
And,” Chisholm adds, “it doesn’t count against your total for
run begins October 2015. And she’s allowed to talk about it.
the night.” Not about to argue with tradition, Chisholm pours
And she’s excited. Very.
“…you know what else my mother advised? When you’re getting ready for a party, always have a ‘sink drink’ on hand.” EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
BARBARA CHISHOLM’S AWESOME ROAST CHICKEN WITH “ONE-WOMANSHOW” SAUCE Serves 4
1 organic chicken, about 5 lbs. ½ lemon Salt and pepper 1 T. whole black peppercorns 1 celery stalk with leaves, chopped 1 bay leaf 1 garlic clove, minced
1–2 shallots, minced Parsley, a few sprigs ½ c. butter, melted 2–3 carrots 1 onion 2 celery stalks ¾ c. white wine, divided ½ c. chicken broth
Heat the oven to 450°. Remove the liver, gizzard and other loose parts from the chicken. Rinse chicken in cold water, pat dry and rub inside and out with the half lemon. Squeeze the lemon juice over the chicken and throw the rind in the cavity. Generously salt and pepper, inside and out. Place the black peppercorns, celery stalk with leaves, bay leaf, garlic, shallots and parsley inside the cavity. Tie the chicken’s legs together “so it doesn’t look slutty.” Tuck the wings under. “Slather that bad boy” with about half the melted butter. Place into a roasting pan—it should fit fairly snugly—breast-side down. Roast 15 minutes. Flip the chicken onto its back. Roast another 15 minutes. While the chicken roasts, cut the carrots, onion and celery stalks into a medium dice. Remove the chicken from the oven, then remove from the roasting pan, temporarily. Put the diced carrots, onions and celery into the roasting pan. Mix together. Place the chicken on top of the diced vegetables, breast-side up. Pour the remaining melted butter over the chicken. Pour ½ cup of the white wine and all of the chicken broth into the pan. Return the pan to the oven and roast for an hour—basting every 15 minutes. Remove the chicken to a cutting board and place the roasting pan, with its cooked vegetables and juices, over high heat. Skim off some of the fat. Deglaze—adding the remaining wine and scraping up the browned bits. Make the sauce by “pureeing the whole beautiful slop in a blender.” Serve with the roasted chicken, but there will be leftovers, which you can slather on bread.
BLOODY MARY No matter how you mix it, my handmade vodka beats those giant “imports” every day.
WENDY JO PETERSON
★ 3 plum tomatoes,
★ 2 celery stalks,
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minced ★ 1 tsp. tamari sauce ★ 1 tsp. Lea & Perrins Worchestershire Sauce ★ ¼ cup Tito’s Handmade Vodka
In a glass bowl or serving dish, mix together vegetables with garlic, tamari, Worchestershire sauce and Tito’s Handmade Vodka. Allow vegetables to marinate in the refrigerator for at least one hour. It’s that simple!
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CHIEF ART ACEVEDO BY RO B I N C H OT Z I N O F F • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R
ustin Police Chief Art Ace-
and everything LBJ did for refugees.”
vedo arrives home with his
Acevedo’s father had died, but his sen-
8-year-old son Jake and a load
timents lived on in his youngest son. He
of groceries, slaps the bags on the
took a deep breath, introduced himself
counter, cranks up the grill, downs a
to LBJ’s daughter and the two became
tall glass of water and begins chopping
friends. “But still,” he now says, “did the
onions. In an hour, he’ll head north to
stars align, or what?”
a vigil for a Hutto police sergeant, so
The elder Acevedos never took cit-
there’s no time to change into civilian
izenship for granted. They expected
clothes. His cell phone buzzes. It’s an-
their sons to give something back—not
other tightly scheduled day-turning-
just in work, but in life. All that civ-
into-night, but Acevedo seems entirely
ic-mindedness was balanced, however,
relaxed. Dinner? He’s got this.
by plenty of hedonism and hospital-
“I do most of the cooking around
ity. “My parents had people over all
here,” he says. “I married a very smart
the time,” Acevedo remembers. “I still
woman [Travis County Chief Infor-
go back to California at Christmas to
mation Officer Tanya Acevedo], but
roast a pig in the Caja China. We pretty
cooking is not one of her fortés and
much always ate dinner together, and
we both work a lot of hours. So it’s usually simple stuff I
we rarely ate out. I still remember my first restaurant meal in
love to eat—steak, pot roast, a Cuban salad.” He adds a liberal
this country. Sirloin steak with fried shrimp, french fries and a
amount of salt to the plate of sliced vine-ripened tomatoes,
strawberry shake with whipped cream. At Denny’s! I thought
onions and avocado—with olive oil, no vinegar!—and the
this must be how rich people eat.”
dry-aged rib-eye steaks resting on the counter. “It’s a Cuban thing,” he says. “We love our olive oil and salt.”
Upon graduating from the California Highway Patrol Academy in the mid-1980s, Acevedo worked a patrol in East
Acevedo was born in Havana just before the revolution, and
L.A. It was a time of riots and gang violence, but also of new
left with his family a few years after it, thanks to the LBJ-spon-
frontiers in food. “There was La Carreta, a little Mexican in-
sored refugee policy that flew an estimated 300,000 Cubans to
terior place with incredible food, and King Taco, the infa-
the U.S. and gave them a path to citizenship. Once settled in El
mous place where I’d always order no chile and they’d always
Monte, California, Acevedo’s father, who’d been a police officer in
forget and I got tired of sending it back and learned to eat
Havana, worked menial construction jobs and read voracious-
hot. I’m a foodie,” he says as he pats his stomach, “as you can
ly—reminding his kids that freedom is the greatest gift of all.
probably tell. Being Cuban, I love my rice, but my doctor says
Eight years ago, shortly after moving from California to Aus-
I have to lay off.” Thankfully, the world is still full of meat.
tin to head the police department, Acevedo ran into Luci Baines
Outside, on a deck overlooking acres of oak forest, he puts
Johnson at an event where both were scheduled to speak. He
the rib eyes onto the grill, lets them cook a while, then covers
was uncharacteristically starstruck. “What in the world was I
them with a heavy dusting of Lawry’s Seasoned Salt, “which
going to say to her?” he remembers. “I mean, who am I? Some
I hope you like,” he says, “because it’s the key to life. What’s
cop, right? But if someone had told my father that I would end
in it? Everything a Cuban loves.”
up the first Hispanic police chief, here, where LBJ spent so
Speaking of which, the chief observes, “a mojito would go
much time, he would have said they were crazy. And he had so
down easy, wouldn’t it?” It wouldn’t do before the vigil, but
much respect for the Civil Rights Act and the Voting Rights Act
some other night? That these sentiments are phrased as quesEDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
tions is no accident—Acevedo specializes in “community” policing, and that spirit extends to casual conversation. “What’s your story?” he asks—interrupting one of his own. “Where’d you grow up? How’d you get here?” Unlike some public figures, he’s a good listener. And he’ll share that mojito recipe, even though he can’t drink one tonight. Furthermore, “how about those Austin food trucks and barbecue joints?” he asks, and “isn’t it depressing when Hey Cupcake runs out of the 24 Carrot?” He serves the steaks—perfectly medium-rare, with extra Lawry’s on the side—and goes to Hutto to pay his respects. A mere 24 hours later, Acevedo strolls down Fourth Street, on patrol in the middle of a standing-room-only marriage equality street party. Rowdy drunks who might otherwise avoid a uniformed officer seem thrilled to run into the guy they call “Chief Art”—shaking his hand, yelling into his ear, telling their stories. It’s another long workday that will stretch into the night, but Acevedo is exactly where he wants to be, in no hurry to move on.
CHIEF ART’S CUBAN SALAD AND “KEY TO LIFE” STEAK Serves 3–4 For the salad: 1 white onion, thinly sliced 2 ripe avocados, cut into small chunks 3 perfect, large tomatoes, cut into chunks Sea salt Good olive oil Toss the onion, avocado and tomato together. Arrange on a large platter, generously salt and drizzle with plenty of olive oil. For the steaks: 3–4 big, thick, dry-aged rib eyes Sea salt and pepper Lawry’s Seasoned Salt Heat a gas grill on high for 15 to 30 minutes. Salt and pepper the steaks. Grill the steaks for 6 minutes, then turn over and cook for another 6 minutes. Just before removing the steaks from the grill, dust liberally with Lawry’s. Let rest 10 minutes before serving. Steaks will be medium-rare to medium.
CHIEF ART’S “OFF-DUTY” MOJITO Makes 1 cocktail 6 mint leaves, plus more for garnish ½ oz. fresh lime juice ¾ oz. Monin Mojito mix (you could also substitute a simple syrup) A generous pour (about 1.5 oz.) of rum (“plain old Bacardi,” says Acevedo, but you could also use Treaty Oak Platinum Rum) Topo Chico or other fizzy water Muddle mint leaves with lime juice in a cocktail shaker. Strain the mixture into a highball glass. Add Monin or simple syrup and rum, stirring well. Fill glass with ice cubes, then top off with desired amount of Topo Chico. Garnish with mint leaves. 24
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KATHIE SEVER BY RO B I N C H OT Z I N O F F • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R
n a hot evening in ear-
trade shows and music festivals
ly June, Kathie Lebeck
nationwide. The validation has
Sever starts dinner by
made her as happy as an intense-
making a fire in a circle of rocks
ly private person can be, but no
in her Austin backyard. Back-
amount of success, she says, is a
packing season has just begun in
substitute for the solitude of her
the High Sierra of California—
beloved wilderness backpacking.
her favorite place on earth—but
Her need to go there, and do that,
this summer, she’ll be way too
is genetic. “My mom and dad were
busy to spend much time there.
outdoorsy,” she says. “They met
This outdoor dinner is a com-
leading trips for the Sierra Club.
promise—not cooked at a rug-
In the 1960s, my mom was hired as
ged campsite on a small white-
cook for an expedition in Alaska.
gas stove, not in response to a
The men went off and did a first
pleasantly bottomless hunger, not
ascent while she made camp and
after a long day of hiking. It trig-
fended off grizzly bears.”
gers good memories all the same. “There’s
Sever’s California childhood
was full of extended hikes with
about walking all day long, not
extended family—beginning on
thinking about much except how
her mother’s back in a homemade
to get to the next place you need
to be in time to eat,” Sever says.
her sometimes grumpy teens
“I’m always so desperate to be
and persisting even after moving
there that when I finally arrive,
to Montana and then to Texas.
I feel instantly blissed out. Because some parts of life are
These days, she treks with her children (11 and 15), her sister
just so fraught—doing what’s best for your kids, dealing with
Debbie and her kids, and her mother, who is more devoted
your business, wondering how to afford to keep living in Aus-
to solo expeditions and minimalist gear at 80 than she was at
tin. It’s a never-ending hustle. But somehow, very, very stren-
40. Sever and her sister like to spend winters planning food
uous backpacking is not.”
for the next family hike. They don’t mess with the expensive,
The view from her fire ring comprises roses and toma-
freeze-dried meals sold by outfitters. Instead, they stockpile
to plants, her kids’ well-used trampoline and the unassuming
extra portions of one-pot dinners—preserving them in a dehy-
shack where her popular line of swank and rustic western-in-
drator and measuring them into zip-close bags. “In camp, you
spired, custom-embroidered (and sometimes recycled) cloth-
add boiling water and let it rehydrate,” Sever says. “We’ll bring
ing is designed and made. A few years ago, she rebranded her
tubes of butter or coconut butter or ghee, and add in some fat,
business as Fort Lonesome, rebuilt a vintage chain-stitch sew-
or maybe a can of sardines, with the oil. My sister and I are
ing machine and put it to use. The new entity took off. Sev-
all about the ritual. We’ll take our time, stirring and chatting.”
eral well-known musicians and actors were already wearing
Sever’s kettle begins to boil on the grate over the open fire.
her handmade shirts, but now the fashion world was paying
She empties a bag of multicolored food flakes into a bowl,
attention. She hired four seamstresses, added more vintage ma-
adds hot water and stirs—taking her time. After a while, the
chines and took Fort Lonesome on the road to maker events,
ingredients reassemble into chicken curry with chard and EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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jasmine rice—a hot and surprisingly substantial dinner. “It turns into a sort of heavenly goop,” Sever says. “And it almost always tastes amazing. At the end of the day, when the sweat starts to cool and you’re feeling a little chill and you finally get that first taste of food? Like nectar of the gods.”
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KATHIE SEVER’S “HEAVENLY CAMPSITE GOOP”
Fall is Golden WilDflOWer.Org
J o i n us th is seaso n fo r Austin Museum Day Bug Night Out Native Plant Sale Texas Native Plant Week 28
Sept. 20 Oct. 2 Oct. 10-11 Oct. 18-24
Feeds 3–4 hungry hikers Special equipment needed: A dehydrator 1–2 T. olive oil, coconut oil, ghee or butter, plus extra for serving* 1 onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 lb. chard or kale, ripped into manageable pieces 2 c. cooked, shredded chicken 2 c. prepared jasmine rice (cooked in bone broth, if possible) 1 small jar prepared curry sauce (Sever likes Thai Kitchen Curry Simmer Sauce—not the paste!) Sauté the onion and garlic in the oil until translucent and slightly browned. Add the greens and stir-fry until wilted. Add the chicken and rice, stirring until heated through. Stir in the entire jar of curry sauce and simmer for 5 minutes or so to meld flavors. Remove from the heat and spread thinly on silicone drying mats. Place the mats in a dehydrator and process until dry and crunchy—usually about 12 hours. Check to make sure no moist bits remain. Remove from the dehydrator, transfer to a plastic zip-close bag and crush with your hands, or a rolling pin, into smaller bits. To rehydrate, empty the bag into a pot or large thermal cup, add 2 cups of hot-to-boiling water and stir occasionally until the water is absorbed. Before serving, stir in additional butter or oil—about 1 tablespoon per person. *Use fat sparingly in recipes you plan to dehydrate. Add it in just before serving.
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Rainbow carrots for Chef Chris at 360
Chef Dee Dee examines the peaches for cobblers
Chef Rojo chooses tomatoes for Oak Hill
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TERESA WILSON BY A N N A TO O N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K N OXY
eresa Wilson speaks quite softly. It’s a strain to hear her voice above the passing cars on Airport Boulevard as she sits on the sunlit patio of her newest restaurant, Sala and Betty. The space, previously occupied by Stallion Grill,
has been thoughtfully renovated and reopened as a hybrid—casual cuisine with a decided nod to the upscale, partnered with a drive-thru offering sandwiches and a la carte items such as pork shoulder and bake-at-home soufflé. What’s the concept?
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“…you have to remember that just because it’s a male-dominated industry doesn’t mean you can’t be a big part of it. I lift as much as anyone else. You can do anything in the kitchen. Just remember that.” —Teresa Wilson “That is the million-dollar question,” Wilson says with a laugh. As children, Wilson and her sister called each other “Sala”—a term of endearment they thought sounded like the Spanish ed they couldn’t both be Sala. “She said, ‘You’re Betty,’ and I’m
“The Jemima Code digs deep to unearth treasures and histories of black cooks, their books, and their recipes.”
like, ‘Alright, I’m Betty,’” recalls Wilson. It’s this sentimentality
— M A R C U S S A M U E L S S O N, author of Yes, Chef
their mother spoke at home. Eventually, Wilson’s sister decid-
and lack of pretension that make it difficult to imagine the fineboned, delicate Wilson as a culinary powerhouse, but then again, there’s no need to imagine. From her humble beginnings at Bill Miller Bar-B-Q to her remarkable stint as the chef/owner of the now-shuttered (though not for lack of acclaim) French restaurant Aquarelle, the self-taught Wilson has indelibly marked the Austin food scene with her refined and sophisticated approach to preparing food, from bordelaise to her mother’s stewed potatoes. Born in Colorado to a military family, Wilson spent much of her early life traveling throughout the United States—with stops in Spain as well as Japan—before moving to Austin as an eighth-grader in 1975. After receiving a full-ride scholarship to the University of Texas in chemical engineering, Wilson married, had a child and then divorced, only to find herself in need of an income. Working at Bill Miller Bar-B-Q helped ends meet until her eldest brother suffered a diving accident and was para-
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lyzed. Wilson found a job working nights so that she could help take care of her brother during the day while her mother and sister worked. It was then, while working at a music venue on
university of texas press
Sixth Street, that she met the manager of an Italian restaurant called Basil’s—one of the first fine-dining restaurants in Austin
after The Courtyard and Jeffrey’s. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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Wilson worked at Basil’s for 17 years—eventually running the
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catering side of the business and working the line filling in for one of three chefs when they vacationed. During her tenure, she also met business partner Robert Brady. The two began traveling together to France—honing their classic French-cooking skills— and opened Aquarelle in 2000. Tucked into a charming, elegant home on a then-sleepy West Sixth Street, Aquarelle consistently garnered strong accolades and remained a fine-dining stalwart for 12 years, until Wilson and Brady decided it was the right time within their partnership to close the restaurant. Wilson’s plans
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for the property were to open a Latin-influenced restaurant
called Chonita’s (the name itself a tribute to her grandmother),
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but they were put on indefinite hold when an offer was made and the property was sold. In the years between the closing of Aquarelle and the opening
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of Sala and Betty, Wilson chose to focus on her family—spending time with her two younger children who struggled with dyslexia. “It was at a critical time, and I was able to be there every day,” she says. “It was a two-year program, and one was finishing and one was just starting. I never thought I’d see the day where
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they could come home and do their homework and not need my help, but it’s here, so…I could have retired and continued to focus on motherhood, but I just couldn’t give it up.” In light of her long track record in a decidedly male-dominated industry, and the fact that she’s jumped back in, were there any challenges? “For women, I would say to keep a good
sense of humor, because you know, you just have to laugh some things off because there’s a lot of ego,” she says. “You can see some of the power plays and to not get caught up in that, but you have to remember that just because it’s a male-dominated industry doesn’t mean you can’t be a big part of it. I lift as much as anyone else. You can do anything in the kitchen. Just remember that.” While the restaurant is in its infancy and requires extensive hours, Wilson somehow finds time to help out with numerous charity organizations, including the Dyslexia Center of Austin and Green Corn Project. She’s also a member of the Austin chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier. One nonprofit particularly close to her heart is Urban Roots, and after meeting Executive Director Max Elliott, Wilson decided to get involved. “Max approached me about doing a community lunch, so I said ‘Absolutely.’ I really admire his program and the kids who are a part of that. To see the transition from when they first start to two years later, it’s a real proud moment for Urban Roots.” In fact, Wilson plans to purchase produce from Urban Roots when the farm recovers from the spring floods. “I think it’s really important to give back, and if I can help in any way,” she says, “I will.” While Wilson nurtures Sala and Betty and builds the business, Chonita’s remains an aspiration. “Let’s get through this first,” she says. “Right now I’m a little tired, but when you have that in your blood, and it’s just your drive, it’s hard to let it go.”
HERS AND HERS MUST-HAVE KITCHEN TOOLS BY J O A N N SA N TA N G E LO A N D K AT E PAY N E
ecause I write books and features about food, most people assume I’m solely responsible for all things food and drink that come from our kitchen. But the truth is, even though I can cook the daily meals, and am pretty good at it, that doesn’t mean I like to do it. Luckily, my wife and I are very different. When Jo Ann and I were dating and living together for the first time in our small Brooklyn apartment, she opened my eyes to the cyclical nature of the kitchen— transforming my bachelorette kitchen habits into the
LODGE 12” CAST-IRON SKILLET.
Simple, minimal, one-pan cooking is my kitchen MO, and a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet is so versatile that I cook almost all of our meals in it—from a weeknight chicken dinner to date-night seared duck breasts with marsala wine (a very basic, yet totally delicious way to cook duck; the recipe is from Eugenia Bone’s “The Kitchen Ecosystem”). The beauty of cast iron is that it can go from stovetop to oven. The most important thing to consider, though, is cleaning. Don’t let it soak in water or let it sit while still wet—this will cause it to rust. After cooking and scraping out the remains of dinner, I usually heat water in our teakettle, pour it into the skillet and gently rub with a pan brush to remove food debris. Then I dry it with a paper towel and add a few drops of neutral/high-heat oil (we use sunflower).
lifestyle of a cooking person—something I’d always hoped to be but never quite mastered. She’s the type of person for whom cooking is relaxing and enjoyable, and this relationship to food and cooking set the stage for our current roles. She’s the one who makes sure we eat, and I’m the special projects coordinator— the keeper of the breads, jams, pickles, kimchis, ice creams, bitters, liqueurs, etc. (and the one responsible for the supplemental pizzazz). Our essential tools reflect these general roles. —Kate Payne
BOOS CUTTING BOARD. We inherited a vintage version of this board from Kate’s grandmother. I can’t imagine not having this beauty on our counter. I love the size and stability, and I like to lay out all the ingredients I’m about to use on it—it helps me see what I have and decide how it will be cut, sliced and diced, as well as think about seasoning and flavors. Being able to move the peppers to the left so that I can mince the garlic and then slice the zucchini, all on one board, is simply magic to my minimalist cooking heart.
WÜSTHOF CLASSIC 7” SANTOKU KNIFE.
I love my knife—it’s super light, yet effective and versatile. I use this knife two to three times a day to slice, dice, chop and mince. I was recently over at a friend’s house preparing a meal, and all they had was a dull, cheap knife. After I finally sawed my way through the meal prep, I understood why she didn’t like to cook. A good, sharp knife makes all the difference in the world when preparing fresh ingredients, and is probably the most essential tool for any chef or home cook. Getting a good one doesn’t require a whole paycheck, and a whole set is not needed. Start with one great knife and add to your arsenal over time.
WOODEN SCRAPER SPATULA.
Next to our stove, we have about 10 wooden cooking utensils (spatulas and spoons). By far, my favorite is the spatula. I use it for almost every meal. It’s an essential tool for cooking in cast iron or enameled cast iron (my other favorite cooking pan): It stirs, it scrapes (without scratching) and it stands up to high heat. A few nice burn marks on a wooden utensil give it character, and one never has to worry about it melting. Ditch that plastic black number acquired in college and upgrade to this classic version.
BREADMAN BREAD MACHINE. I know bread machines seem like a cheater method—sucking the fun out of the art of bread-making— but when you bake a loaf of gluten-free bread every other week, it’s essential. I combine my dry flour blend in batches of three or four and store them in mason jars in the refrigerator. When it’s time to bake, I combine the wet ingredients, pull out a jar of the dry, add yeast and let two hours and 40 minutes elapse until that fresh-baked bread smell permeates the house. I’ve always used thrift-store machines and got hooked on a particular Breadman model I once found. When this one retires, I’ll happily purchase another—I’m very pleased with the functionality and final product. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
RUBBERMAID HIGH-HEAT SPATULA. This might just be my desert island kitchen tool—provided one can make cakes, custards and jams on said island. I learned about the supreme usefulness of these spatulas from my mother, who was in the restaurant business for 30 years. They withstand about any abuse one can inflict, but I recommend dedicated spatulas for pickling and savory projects, because no one wants garlic or other spices (that the silicone can retain) in their strawberry jam or vanilla ice cream.
WIRE MESH STRAINER. I use this strainer constantly for many of my kitchen projects. It’s a perfect tool for removing the fruit after the first stage of fermenting raw, live vinegars, or for straining the custard before adding cream in French-style ice cream. With other projects, I add a layer of filtration with a fine-weave muslin to strain whey from the yogurt I make (this produces a thicker, Greek-style texture), or I use a coffee filter inside the strainer to catch sediment from tinctured bitters, tonics, and other syrups and infusions.
LE CREUSET 8-QUART STOCK POT. This pot always seems to be full. I use it for the obvious stocks and broths made from saved bones and vegetable scraps that are kept in three freezer bins (one chicken, one fish and the “other” category that is mostly beef and pork, with veggie scraps distributed among each). When a bin is full, it’s time to make stock. I also use this pot for small-batch canning. A 9-inch round cake rack fits perfectly in the bottom, converting this pot into a small canning pot that can accommodate about as many half-pint jars as most of my canning recipes yield and as my home garden produces at one harvest. I pull out the 12-quart stainless steel pot, or the 14-quart lobster pot when I need to can taller jars like pints or quarts. Since this 8-quart pot works with my induction burner as well, I tend to take it with me when canning in the wild (libraries, bookstores and other places with a power outlet but no true kitchen).
JO ANN SANTANGELO Jo Ann Santangelo is a photographer and filmmaker based in Austin, Texas, who specializes in long-term, in-depth documentary projects. Her work explores issues of discrimination, sexual identity and marginalized communities. Her work has appeared in The Washington Post, The Guardian, Mother Jones, Texas Observer, The Advocate, Food & Wine, Edible Austin and in numerous international publications, and has been exhibited in galleries in New York, California, Massachusetts, Texas, Arizona, Connecticut and Oregon. See her work at joannsantangelo.com
KATE PAYNE Kate Payne is an author and freelance writer, and a frequent consultant for design, decor, cooking and crafting publications and sites. She lives in Austin and teaches classes on food preservation, liqueurs and bitters and other topics, both privately and at culinary centers across the country. Her books “Hip Girl’s Guide to Homemaking” (HarperCollins, 2011) and “Hip Girl’s Guide to the Kitchen” (HarperCollins, 2014) are available wherever books are sold. Read more about Kate on her blog: hipgirlshome.com and website: katepayne.net 38
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MONGERS MARKET + KITCHEN BY ST EV E W I LSO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY A L I SO N N A R RO
“I’d go skulking around Austin looking for the same quality of fish you get in Corpus Christi, but couldn’t find it,” he says. “So I figured I could do better.” —Roberto San Miguel
oberto San Miguel, co-owner of Mongers Market +
altogether to fish for profit in his native Corpus Christi.
Kitchen, can cuss like a sailor when he wants to, but
After Texas banned commercial trout and redfish in 1981,
mostly when he’s quoting sailors. Thing is, he knows
he and some friends started selling amberjack and other
a lot of sailors. He repeats an especially long and pungent blue streak that he heard from the mouth of a sea dog back in 2007,
Gulf fish instead. Finding himself stranded on an oil rig in a storm that “pretty much sank” his boat, he switched from fish-catching to fish-buying (more money, less wet).
when Texas started making commercial anglers pay for the
He returned to fishmongering years later as a sideline
right to catch a set quota of red snapper. A former Corpus
while he worked as a research specialist in the state attor-
Christi fisherman himself, San Miguel thought the quotas
ney general’s office. He needed a way to pay off his student
were a good idea, but he listened respectfully until he could
debts, and the Gulf (or at least what was in the Gulf ) called
work in a question: “Who’s got the most quotas and are they
to him. “I’d go skulking around Austin looking for the same
willing to part with some snapper?”
quality of fish you get in Corpus Christi, but couldn’t find
San Miguel has always been enterprising like that. When
it,” he says. “So I figured I could do better.”
he tired of working for newspapers in the 1970s, he started
That’s when San Miguel found the person with all the
one of his own. At the start of the 1980s, he left journalism
red snapper: Mark Friudenberg of Captain Mark’s Seafood
in Freeport. After striking a deal with Friudenberg and a few oth-
taken out the permits on an East Cesar Chavez space to start a
er suppliers, San Miguel became one of Austin’s only sources of
fish-and-chips shop but never followed through. Even then, San
Gulf seafood straight off the boat. Ever since, he’s set off for Free-
Miguel and Stark had plenty of red tape to slash. “It took six
port once a week and returned the same day with 1,000 pounds
months just to get the lights on,” he says.
of snapper, grouper, flounder, tuna, swordfish and other delights
Mongers finally opened last March. Stark creates the menu
that Austin would otherwise have to get frozen. “The fact of the
every day from a boutique selection of whatever weighty spec-
matter is, I just have to have my fresh seafood,” he says. “So to be
imen the staff hauls in from the refrigerated truck. San Miguel
honest with you, this is a pretty selfish endeavor.”
sells a sampling behind his case by the door. “Look at these
Getting a steady supply of fish was the easy part. After initial talks with Austin chefs went practically nowhere, San Miguel
shrimp!” he brags about a particularly tasty looking selection under the glass. “You need sunglasses!”
figured he could ride the “buy local” craze and set up shop at
For San Miguel, no fish tastes like Gulf fish, and he defends
the downtown farmers market in 2008. He became one of the
the oft-ridiculed waters in which they splash. He says snapper
market’s most popular sellers, but he was after a bigger catch:
populations are healthy, and the 2010 oil spill did no lasting
Jeffrey’s, Four Seasons and another 80 restaurants who became
damage. As for the stink, he says that’s just the Sargasso Sea
wholesale customers because of the booth. “Being at the market
rolling in—a necessary part of life in the Gulf. (Named for the
was a marketing ploy,” he says.
seaweed Sargassum, the sea originates from the North Atlantic
Four years later, San Miguel quit the farmers market to pur-
and is made up of a floating mass of seaweed.) “It builds habitats
sue an idea he’d always talked about with Shane Stark, executive
for sea life, and when it washes away in September, you can see
chef of Kenichi: expand the booth into a permanent location and
sailfish a hundred yards off the beach,” he says. “Go far enough
attach a restaurant to it. “You’ve got to admit, I’ve got balls like
out there, and you can see straight down to the bottom. It’s so
church bells to make the attempt,” he says.
Planning to retire from his government job, San Miguel hoped to open Mongers within the year, but Austin real estate had oth-
Mongers Market + Kitchen
er plans. Every space was either too expensive or unavailable.
2401 E. Cesar Chavez St.
Finally, in 2013, one of the many real estate agents San Miguel
regularly pestered called with the perfect spot. Someone had
231 San Saba Ct. • Blanco, TX 78606 42
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RAGÙ ALLA BOLOGNESE BY W I L L PAC KWO O D • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY J E N N A N O RT H CU T T
agù alla Bolognese is a rich yet delicate meat sauce originating in Bologna, the capital of Emilia-Romagna. Ragù is a classification of thick, meat-based sauces generally served with pasta, and on October 17, 1982, Bologna’s chapter of the Accademia Italiana della Cucina chose one recipe to be accepted as the “most accurately true” ragù alla Bolognese. Of course, this set off weeks of debate, discussion and questions about the most traditional ingredients, the most traditional quantities of said
ingredients, the most traditional method of preparation and the origin of ragù alla Bolognese. As with all other authentic Italian foods, there are as many recipes and variations as there are cooks. What can be agreed upon, though, is that ragù alla Bolognese is finely minced meat long-simmered with various vegetables, aromatics, liquids and the addition of tomato, crushed and/or paste. To better understand the finished product, let’s look at the individual components.
FATS Emilia-Romagna occupies the majority of the Po Valley, Italy’s agriculture center, and produces large quantities of milk and dairy products. Butter is the obvious choice of cooking fat—it adds a subtle richness and sweetness to the finished sauce. Usually, a small amount of olive oil or vegetable oil is added to help raise the smoking point and prevent the butter from burning.
AROMATICS Carrot, celery and onion are almost always included—they provide depth to the long-cooking ragù. In addition, softer more delicate herbs, such as parsley and bay leaves, are often included to add freshness. Harsher flavors such as garlic and more robust herbs and spices are usually omitted.
MEATS Today, beef is the most commonly used meat. Pork and veal are often included to add texture and richness. The best cut is from the shoulder of the animal, the chuck and pork butt. These cuts benefit from the long cooking time and have a great meat-to-fat ratio. Many recipes also include pancetta, salt pork and chicken livers, each of which add additional flavors and consistencies.
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Milk is usually the first liquid added during the simmering process. Milk adds a subtle sweetness and aids in softening the meats. Wine adds flavor, and more importantly, acidity. Only use a wine you would drink—any negative flavors in the wine will become more evident during the cooking process. Tomato puree adds additional liquid and that expected tomato-y flavor, but remember, this is a meat ragù, not tomato sauce; tomato only plays a supporting role. Broth is used when additional liquid is needed (make sure it’s very mild or diluted with water so as not to overpower the other flavors). Heavy cream, sometimes reduced to a thick consistency, is often added immediately before serving.
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Other flavors are sometimes included: Nutmeg is fairly common, adding a pleasant earthiness. Rinds
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of Parmigiano-Reggiano and anchovies are also often used to add savory notes (aka umami).
SERVING SUGGESTIONS Ragù alla Bolognese is most typically served with tagliatelle (a flat pasta similar to fettuccine). Small- to medium-sized hollow maccheroni shapes, such as rigatoni, penne and garganelli are also suitable. Round noodles such as spaghetti are never served with ragù alla Bolognese because of their inability to hold the sauce. Ragù alla Bolognese is also an important component of lasagne alla Bolognese.
RAGÙ ALLA BOLOGNESE Makes 8 generous servings 2 T. olive oil
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2 T. unsalted butter 1 small yellow onion, peeled and minced 1 rib celery, washed, trimmed and minced 1 small carrot, peeled, trimmed and minced 3 T. flat-leaf parsley, leaves only, minced
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1 lb. ground beef ½ lb. ground veal ½ lb. ground pork 1 c. whole milk 1 c. white wine Nutmeg, to taste 14 oz. whole plum tomatoes, pureed using a food mill 1 T. tomato paste
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1 1-by-3-inch Parmigiano-Reggiano rind 2 bay leaves Salt and black pepper, to taste In a large pot, heat the oil and butter over medium-high heat. Add the onion, celery, carrot and parsley to the pan and stir to coat. Season with a small amount of salt and pepper and allow the vegetables to sweat for 5 to 7 minutes. Add the meat to the vegetables and break up using a wooden spoon. Allow the meat to cook just until the raw color goes away. Add the milk and bring to a simmer. Allow the mixture to simmer until the milk has fully evaporated. Add the wine and allow the mixture to simmer for 10 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Reduce the heat to a very low simmer and allow the sauce to simmer for 4 hours. Add a small amount of water if the sauce becomes too dry. After 4 hours, adjust the seasonings, remove the bay leaves and the rind and use the sauce as needed. Any leftover sauce can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 3 weeks. Buon appetito!
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FLOUR TORTILLAS BY I L I A N A D E L A V EGA A N D I SA B E L TO R R E A L BA
ortillas are the unrivaled accompaniment to any meal
thing to see all over Mexico.
in Mexico. And as such, they perform the same role
Unlike corn tortillas, flour tortillas call for salt and some
as bread in European cultures and rice in Asian cul-
type of fat such as lard, shortening or—as we’ve seen in recent
tures. All tortillas are flat, round disks made from cooked
times—oil or butter. The techniques and equipment used to
nixtamalized masa (corn dough) or wheat flour, and their
make flour tortillas are completely different than those used
original purpose was to serve as plates and silverware, hold-
for corn, as well. Whereas corn tortillas are flattened with
ing and complementing all types of food—a very common
a tortilla press, flour tortillas must be flattened and shaped
into circles with a rolling pin. And it’s important to mention that even though both kinds of tortillas are found throughout Mexico, flour tortillas originated in the Northern states of the country and had not been introduced to the Central/Southern states until recent decades. The proximity of the Northern states to the U.S. may explain why flour tortillas are more popular in this country and why they are more prevalent in the American derivations of Mexican food. Before making the dough, decide what kind of fat will be used. Lard will make for a very flavorful tortilla, but it will also make it a bit tough. (Some recipes call for baking powder, which can make the tortillas fluffier but because it can also make them quite tough, we don’t recommend it.) We like
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to use shortening to achieve perfectly soft and easy to handle tortillas. To make the tortillas, mix the ingredients together until the dough has a smooth and homogenized consistency, then allow it to rest before dividing into small balls. Once you’ve formed the balls, it’s important to let them rest another 20 minutes so that the gluten can relax before shaping them into the desired thickness and size using a rolling pin. In contrast to corn tortillas that need to be cooked immediately after flattening, several flour tortillas can be rolled and stacked before cooking on a comal (flat griddle). As the tortillas are cooked, they can be placed inside a cloth napkin, which is usually then placed inside a canasta (woven basket). One last note: Don’t worry if your tortillas are not perfectly round—they will be equally delicious no matter what the shape!
FLOUR TORTILLAS Makes approximately 30 1½-ounce tortillas 2 lb. all-purpose flour 1 T. fine sea salt 7 oz. vegetable shortening 1 c. hot water (as warm as you can handle) In a large bowl, combine the flour and the salt. Use your hands to mix in the vegetable shortening until the mixture feels like breadcrumbs. Add the water in small amounts and continue kneading until the dough forms a smooth ball that is firm and elastic. Do not over-knead or the tortillas will be tough. Let the dough rest 20 minutes, then divide it into 1 ½ -ounce chunks. Shape each chunk into a round patty as follows: Using the table and the palm of your hand, flatten out each chunk into a thick patty about ½-inch thick. Pull back the edges to the center and press down, turn it upside down and flatten again with the palm of your hand to form a patty. Let the patties rest, covered with a kitchen towel, for 20 minutes. Heat a well-seasoned comal or nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Using a rolling pin, and working on an unfloured surface, roll out each patty to make very thin tortillas. Place a tortilla on the comal, cook it for 30 seconds and flip to cook on the other side for 30 more seconds—or until it has golden-brown spots, inflates and is cooked through. Repeat the process with the remaining patties. Keep the tortillas warm until ready to serve.
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SINCRONIZADAS DE HONGOS CON SALSA DE JITOMATE ASADO Y CHILE SERRANO (MUSHROOM TORTILLA SANDWICH WITH ROASTED TOMATO AND SERRANO SALSA) Makes 4 For the salsa: 5 ripe Roma tomatoes 2 serrano chilies, or to taste 1 garlic clove, unpeeled 1 t. salt, or to taste Dry-roast the tomatoes, chilies and garlic on a comal or skillet set over medium heat. Remove the garlic when brown spots appear on the papery skin, then peel and reserve. Keep turning the tomatoes and chilies as they char. Discard the stem of the chilies. Place the tomatoes, chilies and garlic in a blender, season with salt and blend. The sauce should be thick. For the filling: 1½ T. canola oil ½ white onion, sliced in julienne strips 2 serrano chilies, or to taste, chopped 1 garlic clove, chopped ½ lb. mushrooms, sliced 1 T. epazote leaves, chopped To finish: 8 flour tortillas 3 c. Oaxaca cheese, shredded Heat the oil in a sauté pan, add the onion and chilies and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes until translucent. Add the garlic and sauté for 1 minute, then mix in the mushrooms, reduce the heat to simmer and cover with a lid. Cook for 5 to 8 minutes until the mushrooms are cooked through. Add the epazote and move the pan off the heat. Place 4 tortillas on a flat surface. Using half of the cheese, make a thin layer on top of each tortilla. Divide the mushroom filling among the 4 tortillas and top with an even layer of the remaining cheese. Cover each with one of the remaining tortillas. Heat a comal or a griddle over medium-low heat. Place the sincronizadas (tortilla sandwiches) on top—pressing down with a spatula as they cook. The tortillas should have some brown spots and be slightly crispy, while the filling should be warm and the cheese melted. Cut them in half, or not, and serve warm with the salsa on the side.
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GUMBO BY T E R RY T H O M PSO N -A N D E RSO N
ust say the city’s name—New Orleans—and most like-
erally agreed that Native Americans, slave traders and enslaved
ly your mind will conjure up visions of food and drink.
Africans all lent their hands to the creation of the dish. Okra, a
And somewhere in the sensuous mélange of remem-
key ingredient in gumbo, used both for its flavor and its prop-
bered aromas, textures and heat levels, a bowl of dark and
erties as a thickener, was introduced by Africans, who brought
mysterious, spicy, brooding gumbo will surely emerge.
the ingredient to New Orleans via the Caribbean. Okra was called
New Orleans is credited with the original conception of
ngombo or kingombo in the Bantu dialect, and gave the famous dish
gumbo, a dish indicative of the famous Creole city. And it’s gen-
its name. Another important ingredient, filé, or the dried, ground
leaves of the sassafras tree, was created by the native Choctaws, who ground the powder and sold it in outdoor markets in New Orleans. Filé is typically stirred into the gumbo at the table, to further flavor and thicken the brew. Something to keep in mind: Because okra will attain a ropey or “slimy” consistency if cooked for long periods, adding it toward the end of the gumbo cooking process will result in okra with a bit of crunch left and no objectionable slime. Gumbo can be made by mixing and matching ingredients with just about any meat, fish or fowl as long there’s a good flavor base, and that base should start with a dark roux and include high-quality stock. Various types of stock can be found in specialty markets, and often seafood stock is sold by reputable seafood markets or is available in gels, which can be reconstituted in water. (If you are making a gumbo with chicken or quail, use a good poultry stock.) Making the roux is a hands-on process, which requires a commitment of time and patience. To save time in making future pots of gumbo, it’s possible to make the roux in large quantities (you could even go ahead and add the requisite “holy trinity” of vegetables: onions, bell peppers and celery) and freeze it in one-pot-sized batches. Thaw before using.
SEAFOOD FILÉ GUMBO Serves 8–10 2 c. dark roux (see recipe below) 2 large onions, cut into ½-inch dice 2 medium green bell peppers, cut into ½-inch dice 1 large red bell pepper, cut into ½-inch dice 5 celery stalks, cut into ½-inch dice 5 medium garlic cloves, minced 1 T. minced fresh thyme 4 fresh bay leaves, minced 1 T. minced fresh basil ½ c. minced flat-leaf parsley, divided 1½ t. dried oregano 1 t. freshly ground black pepper 4 qt. seafood stock 6 small blue “gumbo” crabs, cleaned and broken in half Kosher salt and cayenne pepper to taste (but it should be spicy) 3 c. sliced fresh okra (or 1 lb. frozen, sliced okra, thawed) 2 lb. small shrimp (70/90 count, often called “gumbo shrimp”), peeled and deveined 1 lb. blue crab claw meat, picked through to remove any bits of shell or cartilage 1 qt. oysters with their luscious liquor Cooked white long-grain rice Filé powder, for serving Thin-sliced green onions, for garnish Tabasco or Crystal Hot Sauce
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GUMBO ROUX Makes 2 cups 2 c. fresh leaf lard (available at Dai Due and my favorite) or vegetable shortening 2 c. all-purpose flour
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Making the roux is a hands-on process, which requires a commitment of time and patience. Begin by making the roux. Melt the lard or shortening in a large, deep-sided cast iron skillet over medium heat. When the fat is hot, add the flour all at once and stir or whisk quickly to blend the fat and flour until smooth. (Your choice of stirring implement should be guided by the fact that the roux will take a while to make, and metal utensils tend to become very hot. A whisk with a wooden handle or a large wooden spoon will keep the stirring process cool.) If necessary, use the back of a spoon to smooth out any lumps of flour. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook, STIRRING OR WHISKING CONSTANTLY, until the roux is a deep mahogany color—about 30 to 45 minutes. This process cannot be rushed; deep flavor develops while stirring the roux slowly, and the flour particles must be kept in constant motion or the roux will burn and cannot be used. If small black flecks appear in the roux, it has been burned and must be discarded; a burned roux will impart a bitter and scorched taste. Use extreme caution not to splash any of the roux onto your skin. It’s lethally hot and can cause a serious burn. At this point, either continue with the recipe or immediately transfer the finished roux to a heavy metal bowl to cool and use another time or freeze. If cooling the roux, continue to whisk for about 15 minutes to prevent separation. The roux may be refrigerated for up to a week or frozen for up to 6 months. If continuing with the recipe, after the roux has reached a deep mahogany color, quickly add the onions, red and green bell pepper, celery, garlic, thyme, bay leaves, basil, ¼ cup of the parsley, oregano and black pepper. Stir to blend into the roux. Continue to cook, stirring, until the vegetables are wilted and the onion is transparent—about 15 minutes. Set aside. While cooking the vegetables in the roux, bring the stock to a full boil in a heavy-bottomed, 10–12-quart soup pot over medium-high heat. When the vegetables are cooked in the roux, add the roux mixture to the boiling stock, all at once, stirring vigorously. Continue to stir until the roux and the vegetables are well blended. Add the gumbo crab bodies, season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper and allow the emerging gumbo to boil for about 15 minutes. Skim off any fat that rises to the surface and discard. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover and cook for 1 hour—stirring often. Then stir in the okra, shrimp and crabmeat. Cook for an additional 15 minutes, then add the oysters and their liquor. Cook just until the oysters begin to curl around the edges—about 10 minutes. Do not overcook. To serve the gumbo, place a portion of the cooked rice (about ½ cup) in the bottom of individual deep rimmed soup plates. Ladle the gumbo over the rice in each bowl—making sure to get a crab body in each bowl. (They’re traditionally pulled apart and sucked after eating the gumbo–their flavor is quite extraordinary!) Pass the filé powder to be stirred into the gumbo (about a heaping teaspoon per bowl) and garnish with a scattering of green onions and the rest of the parsley. Pass the Tabasco or Crystal Hot Sauce for additional pizzazz. Enjoy!
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BULGOGI SSAM BY CA RO L I N E H A H M • P H OTO G R A P H Y BY L E A H OV E RST R E E T
t’s fascinating to me how Korean food has slowly made its
“Oh my god! What is that smell?” My brother coolly respond-
way into the mainstream American palate. I remember grow-
ed, “Oh...that’s kimchi,” like it was no big deal. As for me, I
ing up on Long Island, in a predominantly white, middle-class
chose the cowardly road and attempted to shield my non-Ko-
neighborhood, and being one of the only Asian kids in my entire
rean friends from anything different as I tried to assimilate as
school. I used to be embarrassed to have my non-Korean friends
quickly as possible. I distinctly remember begging my mom to
come over in the event that my grandmother was making some-
buy Wonder bread, Hellmann’s mayonnaise and Oscar Meyer
thing “weird” or “different” and possibly offensive to the noses
bologna so that she could make me a sandwich every day in-
of my friends—such as the smell of kimchi (which I like to refer
stead of a bento box of rice, bulgogi (grilled marinated meat)
to as Korean sauerkraut) or doenjang, a kind of fermented bean
and kimchi. Now, many years later, I’m proud to introduce my
paste like miso that’s used in soups, stews and sauces.
friends to the tastes, smells, traditions and experiences of Ko-
I’ll never forget the time one of my older brother’s friends opened the refrigerator, immediately shut it and exclaimed, 58
rean culture, and I’m grateful to my mother and grandmother for instilling in me a love for gardening and cooking.
BULGOGI SSAM (MEAT LETTUCE WRAPS) Serves 4 When I first moved to Austin in 2013, it didn’t take long to realize there was no place to go when I had a craving for my grandmother’s cooking, or even a place to get simple Korean barbecue that was accessible to non-Korean speakers. But one conversation with Chef Todd Duplechan, owner of Lenoir and Métier, led to a an opportunity for me to introduce my family’s cuisine via a Korean pop-up at Lenoir in the summer of 2014. I included galbi ssam (marinated short rib lettuce wraps) as the final course. In today’s recipe, I’m using the same marinade as I did for the ribs but with a different cut of meat. Bulgogi literally translates to “fire meat.” Ideally, you would grill the meat over charcoal or on a gas grill, but you can easily sauté it in a pan, too. 8 garlic cloves, peeled 1 thumb-size knob of ginger, peeled 1 c. pureed or grated fruit (I prefer Asian pear but you can use Fuji apple, kiwi, pineapple, etc. When using pineapple, be careful not to leave the meat in the marinade for more than an hour because the meat will begin to disintegrate. I’ve made that mistake once and never again!) 1 c. soy sauce 2 T. toasted sesame oil 4 T. brown sugar 2 t. gochugaru (Korean red pepper; you can substitute ground black pepper or cayenne pepper, to taste) ½ yellow onion, cut into slivers
2 bunches scallions, chopped 2 lb. meat (I prefer either rib-eye or hanger steak—which can be purchased at Salt & Time—sliced thinly by the butcher or by hand. If doing it yourself, it helps to slightly freeze the meat before slicing to achieve thin slices.) Whole-leaf red Bibb lettuce, washed Cooked rice, for serving Ssamjang (spicy Korean sauce available at Asian markets), for serving Perilla leaves (available at Springdale Farm from my grandmother’s seeds, or you can substitute shiso leaves available at most Asian markets), for serving Kimchi, for serving Pickled garlic and/or pickled garlic scapes (homemade or purchased at an Asian market) Grate (using a Microplane) or finely chop the garlic, ginger and Asian pear and place in a bowl. Add the soy sauce, sesame oil, brown sugar and gochugaru and mix well. Add the onion and scallions to the bowl. Add the meat slices and incorporate into the marinade. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 12, depending on the thickness of the meat. Remove the meat from the marinade and grill over hot coals or on a gas grill for a few minutes per side. Serve with the lettuce leaves, rice, hot sauce, perilla leaves, kimchi and pickled garlic or scapes to make individual wraps.
WEIGE KNIVES BY CLAIRE CELLA • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JESUS HIDALGO
ravis Weige is accustomed to speed—he used to work as a media sales executive and was inundated daily by a deluge of digital communication and contact. These
influences show, too: Words tumble out of his mouth rapidly, fervently and pragmatically, with practiced ease. It might seem surprising, then, that he’s since renounced his successful fast-paced career for a craft where one project can take not only hours but days to complete. Instead of a computer screen, Weige now stares into the orange glow of a kiln. It was at the end of 2011 that Weige and his wife bought their home in Sunset Valley, and shortly after when Weige began making his first knives as a rather haphazard hobby in his new garage—anything to distract him from the recurring grind of computers, conference calls and commutes. After cobbling together a used grinder, band saw and sander from within the ramshackle remnants of his father’s old barn, Weige began putting them to use—drawing on what he learned from “the University of YouTube,” he says, and “every book on knife-making there is.” While making his fifth or sixth knife, the well-worn sander caught on fire—forcing Weige to douse the whole thing with a bucket of cold water. But it would take more than a few measly flames to douse Weige’s interest in knife-making. In fact, the setback only seemed to solidify his enthusiasm, and he decided to fully invest in the hobby—purchasing a grinder from knife-master and mentor John Stout. It took Weige almost a year to make a knife worth selling or putting his name on. His standards are fiercely exacting, and he’s compelled to create quality, which is why it still takes him a relatively long time to make a knife—about three days, he says—in a society increasingly accustomed to instant gratification. However, the precious time Weige spends with each knife, and the patience exhibited by each customer, are crucial components to the production of the sleek, solid and stunning tool Weige hands over in the end. “I would recognize any knife I’ve ever made, down to every little detail,” Weige says. “They’re like children—they all have tales and travels. They start here in the shop, each one
“Making knives...it’s about immortality almost, and knowing this knife is going to outlive me…it’s part of your legacy as a person to do something that’s going to outlive you, I think.” —Travis Weige
is different and each one will go on to make its own journey
Weige can begin building his or her knife—teasing out the in-
when it leaves. Making knives...it’s about immortality almost,
formation he needs to create a truly customized experience.
and knowing this knife is going to outlive me—not that I’m
He takes measurements and molds of customers’ hands and
obsessed with immortality, but it’s part of your legacy as a per-
even asks for details about what type of cutting board they
son to do something that’s going to outlive you, I think.”
use, what type of knives they use, what they ate last night,
And while each knife will leave Weige’s garage workshop
in addition to preferences for size, shape and type. Currently,
with a small stamp of his own personality, it truly is more
Weige makes predominantly chef’s knives in varying lengths
about the relationship the knife will have with its new owner.
and styles, but he also makes paring, slicing, boning, utility
Weige takes avowed pride in the fact that he makes kitchen
and the Japanese Santoku and Nakiri knives—essentially, any
knives—knives that belong in the heart of a home—and that
classic kitchen knife a customer might desire.
they can withstand religious use every day. It takes about an hour or more with each customer before
Weige’s blades are made from Crucible Industries’ stainless steel, “the oldest steel manufacturing company in the
country,” he says. And the wood he uses for the handles is sourced from myriad places—his backyard, salvaged grandfather clocks, burls of healing trees and “even the side of the road,” he says with a laugh. He personally stabilizes each piece of wood—removing the moisture and infusing it with resin for strength and resilience. Shaping the wooden handle, one of the last steps of the creation process besides finally sharpening the blade, is Weige’s favorite. “When you’re cleaning up the handle, that’s when the knife starts to come alive,” he says. “You’ve been working on it for three or so days and you don’t know, and never know, how it’s going to look until that point. It’s like finally seeing the bride.” Personally, Weige is a fan of using local woods such as Texas pecan and Texas mesquite when he can, but he also uses maple, cocobolo, oak, ironwood and walnut, among others. Beyond type,
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the most important characteristics for the wood are contrast and marbling, he says. Compared to the typical black laminated plastic handles most people are used to, Weige’s handles resemble small kaleidoscopes imbued with the individual hues and patterns of natural wood grains. And, as jewels to these crowns, he adds stainless steel and copper mosaic pins handmade by Sally Martin, a like-minded artisan from Oregon. Customers eager to get their hands on their own Weige knife will have to join the list—the year-and-a-half-long waiting list, that is. Weige’s assistant, Dirk Michener, is helping to whittle down the
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long wait, and there are plans to train another apprentice, but while on the list, you’ll be in good company among Chefs Paul Qui, Bryce Gilmore and Aaron Morris. Renowned chefs and restaurateurs, such as Jack Gilmore and Chris TenEyck (Jack Allen’s Kitchen), Hoover Alexander (Hoover’s Cooking), Skeeter Miller (County Line), Rob Lippincott (Güero’s), Jesse Herman (Sway) and Todd Duplechan (Lenoir) have already waited their turn and now wield Weige knives in their restaurant kitchens. “This is not a fast thing; this is a slow thing,” Weige stresses to each of his customers, and he asks that, after they give him their deposit, they forget about him. “When you hear from me again,” he says, “you’re going to be extremely happy.”
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CLUB CROSSROADS BY LES MCGEHEE • PHOTOGRAPHY BY MELANIE GRIZZEL
long the railroad stops of long ago, you’d often find a café nestled near the tracks. A tiny town, a dirt road, a simple kitchen—all elements that contributed to a crucible of connection, a crossroads at mealtime. Men who would have otherwise never sat down together would do so over
the same fare—whatever the café was serving that day. And even though it was a gathering of men with disparate experiences and lives, a shared meal offered just enough cover to allow any core values that men talk to men about to move around without feeling stared at. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
Clockwise from upper left: Austin Menâ€™s Cooking Club members Tim Oâ€™Brien, Jacob Kornerup, Scott Carden, Tom Sunstrom (founder), Mark Alexander, Blake Wendel
The men move like a flock of manly culinary birds, and there’s so much natural cooperation that it’s difficult, at first, to tell which members are the veterans. Flash forward to today—we’re just west of the crossroads of train tracks and nearby Manor Road, and as if a sauté
within forty-eight hours,” he says. That’s when I knew I was on to something.”
pan had projected the Batman beacon onto the cloud bot-
The interested men agreed to meet, cook and have guy
toms over Austin, men of all stripes have convened at the
fun once a month—taking turns creating menus. They’d each
kitchen of the Sustainable Food Center for a working party.
chip in about $30 for the night’s food and drink, and Sunstrom
The rhythm and blues is a little too loud, the beer and wine
would rent a commercial kitchen. “In the old days, I’d bring
are being reviewed (over beer and wine) and free hands are
everything,” he says. “I’d load my truck with pans, plates and
grabbing at pots, pans and cooking plans. Part chef laboratory,
utensils, all the spices…everything, basically. We really scored
part guy’s night out and 100-percent fun dinner party, it’s the
when we started working with the Sustainable Food Center.
Austin Men’s Cooking Club.
It’s such a great organization and a professional kitchen.”
Ringmaster Tom Sunstrom loves these nights. “Philip cre-
Those small, early gatherings slowly evolved into an orga-
ated the menu for tonight. I chose the wines,” he says. “And
nized group of about 30 men (about half of which RSVP on
Tom plays the music too loud,” someone in the group inter-
any given cooking night), and Sunstrom says it’s been fascinat-
jects. “And he isn’t cooking anything yet! He also brought the
ing—even beneficial—to witness the connections made over
knife-sharpening guy out to sharpen all our personal knives!”
the years. “I remember getting great advice from a financial
The men move like a flock of manly culinary birds, and
advisor I was cooking with about sending my kids to college,”
there’s so much natural cooperation that it’s difficult, at first,
he says, the words muffled by the big bite of mortadella pâté
to tell which members are the veterans. “Blake over there…
he’s chewing. (All agree that Dwayne, who owns a limo compa-
he’s a first-timer,” Sunstrom says. Blake, the account manager
ny, rocked the pâté tonight.)
for an online company, has been here all of five minutes and is
Tom tours the cooking stations and describes the menu.
already responsible for an entire menu item. He smiles while
“We’re having chicken saltimbocca, tomato and goat cheese
happily cutting tomatoes with calm precision. “I guess I’m do-
salad, some spaghetti on the side with lemon, garlic, and
ing this right,” he says. “They sure look great.” Meanwhile, vet-
breadcrumbs, some bruschetta brushed with truffle oil…and
eran member Jacob begins working the skillets, and appears to
Mark is making dessert macaroons with dark chocolate and a
be having a little too much fun while occasionally spouting off
peach gelato with Fredericksburg peaches.” Already available
cooking facts to no one in particular. “It’s important to keep
are savory roasted nuts and Dwayne’s mortadella pâté with
this right at a hundred fifty-five degrees!”
It was about 12 years ago when all of this began. Sunstrom
There are some mad skills in the room, but not everyone
already loved to cook, and because he was a dad, he and his
is on the same level. A couple of the members are culinary
wife logged plenty of time in the kitchen. Yet, he wanted some-
school graduates, including real estate agent Mark who used
thing more. “My thing was to shop at the markets on Saturday
to cook for Emeril in Las Vegas. “Remember the night Chris
and cook all day Sunday with music on,” he says. “I’d have so
burned his eyebrows off?” he asks, referring to his nearby fel-
much fun doing that—experimenting with dishes and local in-
low member. “He had to go home to his wife who’s an ob-gyn
gredients—but I struggled with the fact that I could spend two
and have her inspect his burnt brows!” Chris smiles but does
days making the perfect coq au vin and, two bites in, the kids
not respond. “AND HE’S A PHYSICIST!” Mark finishes. Ev-
were asking for macaroni and cheese with hot dogs and peas.”
eryone laughs while one member casually passes by another
Then he read an article in the Austin American-Statesman
and salts his dish without asking—a move that, in many envi-
about a German man in the Hill Country who’d organized a
ronments, could cause a hand to get severed. Yet, this group
men’s cooking club. Sunstrom learned that manly cooking
moves and functions as one cohesive body.
clubs are quite common in Germany—many small villag-
Members use the equipment with aplomb and clean as they
es have them, and they even have competitions. He was in-
go; no one gets cut or burned and they’re on schedule. Jacob
trigued, and created a flyer and put it up at some local mar-
pulls the spaghetti and reminds aloud: “One gallon salted to one
kets. “I’m looking for a few good men. Austin Men’s Cooking
pound of spaghetti!” One person juices the lemons while an-
Club. Email me if interested,” it read. “I had thirty-two replies
other prepares the crushed breadcrumbs and basil for garnish. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
Meanwhile, a long table is set with flowers, wine and dishes. Then comes the glorious dinner. “My wife didn’t want me to come tonight. I told her we never cancel once we’ve committed!” says one member. “I think that the amazing leftovers she’ll have in her lunch at work tomorrow will soften her.” “My wife was glad I left!” says another. After dinner, knife-sharpening expert John Cruthirds gives a speech. The ensuing conversation is a bizarre nerdfest of knife and chef knowledge mixed with hyperbolic exchanges. “You gotta make sure you don’t hump down on the choil!” Cruthirds says with devoted intensity. “Find yourself a hone within reason!” “Yeah…that hone is best,” concurs Jacob. “Forged knives don’t bend like pressed steel knives,” adds Cruthirds. Then the table breaks into nods, mumbled agreements and a discussion about knife alloys and cutting board preferences (teak is the favorite with its natural antibacterial qualities, followed by bamboo and plastic). The evening comes to a close and the club members finish clearing the table. “About six years ago, I realized what I love most about this and why I’ve made it a part of my life,” says Sunstrom. “We have tall guys and short guys, we have straight guys and gay guys, we have married, divorced and single guys, we have retired guys and college guys, we have business professionals and stay-at-home dads. Not a month goes by where I don’t just take a step back and watch. Many of these guys would NEVER cross paths in this lifetime. When you witness a married empty-nester, retired commercial pilot in a discussion with a young, gay, college student who’s in a fight with his boyfriend relating to each other while cooking homemade tres leches…you can’t help but think you are on to something pretty damned cool.”
MORTADELLA PÂTÉ Serves 12 1 lb. mortadella with pistachios, chopped into chunks, chilled ¼ c. balsamic vinegar ¼ c. ricotta ½ c. heavy cream 1 T. unsalted butter 4 T. olive oil Salt (already pretty salty) and pepper, to taste Pinch nutmeg ½ c. shelled pistachios Sprig rosemary, for garnish Toasted crostini and assorted crackers, for serving In a food processor, puree the mortadella with all of the ingredients except for the ½ cup of pistachios until the texture is creamy. Scoop the pâté into a serving bowl, cover and allow to chill in the fridge. Toast the pistachios on a small cookie sheet at 350° until lightly toasted—about 5 to 10 minutes. (Coat with a little olive oil and salt beforehand, if desired.) Let the pistachios cool for a few minutes, then toss them across the top of the pâté. Garnish with the rosemary for color and serve with the crostini and crackers.
what we’re DRINKING
WITH COOKS BY T E R RY T H O M PSO N -A N D E RSO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY W H I T N EY M A RT I N
s with every issue of “Cooks,” we hope you discover some exciting new recipes to try. But what to drink and serve with them? We’ve put together a few pairing suggestions
below to make the experimenting, supping and sipping experience a little easier. Jim Spencer’s tomato soup (page 77). This quick and easy, but hearty and delicious, soup needs a wine that’s high in acid to stand up to the tomatoes, but also one that’s not overly tannic. Opt for a lighter red such as a sangiovese. Winemaker Kim McPherson has been working with this Tuscan classic varietal for more than a decade, and has developed it into an iconic Texas taste. The McPherson Cellars 2013 Sangiovese is a perfect fit. Will Packwood’s ragú alla Bolognese (page 49). A classic Italian dish deserves to be paired with a classic Italian wine with good acidity to match that of the sauce. Duchman Family Winery’s Montepulciano fits the bill. If a white wine is preferred, the Duchman Vermentino would be a nice match—especially since Packwood uses white wine in the sauce. Ben Runkle and Natalie Davis’ kibbeh (page 80). Because of Terry Thompson-Anderson’s seafood gumbo (page 55).
the distinct earthy flavors of lamb in kibbeh, a wine with equally
Should it be beer or wine? If you’re on the beer side, try Real
earthy notes is needed. Kiepersol Estates 2011 Syrah, with its nose
Ale Brewing Company’s Brewhouse Brown Ale, a bold, bock-
of dried figs and enticing palate of anise and spice, blueberry,
style beer that can stand up to the gumbo’s complex flavors. For
toast, sweet tobacco, blackberry and dried plum is, hands-down,
those who prefer wine, the selection needs to be as full-bodied
an ideal match.
and enigmatic as the dark, brooding stew. With its chewy characteristics and dark berry nuances, the Perissos Vineyard 2012 Petite Sirah is a perfect choice.
Chief Art Acevedo’s Cuban salad and steak (page 24). Normally, pairing a single wine with a salad and a meaty entrée such as steak poses problems, because the usually acidic salad dressing
Caroline Hahm’s bulgogi (page 59). You might try pairing
demands a high-acid wine while the entrée does not. But since
this intensely flavored Korean dish with Austin Beerworks’
this salad contains no vinegar, the pairing becomes easier. A well-
hearty and palate-refreshing Peacemaker. For wine drinkers, it
grilled, aged rib-eye steak begs for a big, bold red wine, and the
gets a little more challenging. Look for a wine that’s not too
Texas Hills Vineyards 2012 Kick Butt Cab is a superlative
earthy or full-bodied, and avoid wines with heavy tannins.
choice: The supple tannins and rich, jammy berry flavors, along
Llano Estacado 2012 Cellar Reserve Tempranillo is a good
with the undertones of earthy, Texas limestone minerality, will
choice. It’s 79 percent tempranillo and 21 percent Mourvèdre,
make that steak dance. Of course, you could always take Chief
which gives it a gentle, slightly sweet red fruit, medium acid and great
Art’s suggestion and pair this dish with one of his refreshing
balance to support the umami and delicious fattiness of the dish.
mojitos instead. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
UNPROCESSED A Q&A WITH MEGAN KIMBLE BY KRISTI WILLIS • PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVEN MECKLER
resh out of graduate school at
through valuable research about the im-
the University of Arizona, Megan
pact of processed food on our bodies and
Kimble was broke, frustrated and
environment; and provides practical ad-
looking for ways to make a difference in
vice on how to make changes to one’s diet.
how she ate. She’d been reading books
While most readers might not sign
about industrial meat production and
up for a butchering class, they can still
farming and how they impact our envi-
gain wisdom from Kimble’s willingness
ronment. She knew she wanted to make
to do so, as well as from the lessons she
changes, but was unclear about which
learned about respecting food and its
direction to go on such a limited budget.
origins. “I’m really grateful for sliced
She’d joined a Community Supported
bread and the conveniences that enable
Agriculture (CSA) program but was still
a busy, modern life,” says Kimble. “I’m
hungry for more ways to change. That’s
not advocating that we go back to this
when she stumbled across the October
idealized moment of doing all the work
Unprocessed challenge issued by the
ourselves, but learning where my food
blog Eating Rules.
comes from and what I was consuming was important.”
The challenge—encouraging people to shun processed food for one month—was
And even though Kimble’s strict ban
already underway when Kimble jumped in
on processed food is over, she still pays
to see if she could do it. “I tried it for a few
careful attention to everything she eats. “I’m an obsessive ingredient label reader
weeks and it brought up so many issues for me of what makes food processed and where you draw the line,” she
and avoid refined sugar and additives in most foods,” she says.
says. “I decided to do it for a year. I had yo-yo dieted throughout my
“I do make an exception now for sweets. I eat a little chocolate
life and had a weird relationship with food. I wanted to find some-
every day so I mostly buy chocolate from the store, and I recently
went out for ice cream with my sister. It was nice.”
With the start of the new year, Kimble cleaned out the pantry, set her resolve and started her quest. She dove into the challenge with
While on your year-long odyssey, was there anything that you
gusto—learning to make things for herself that most would leave
to professionals. She started baking her own bread, moved on to
Giving up refined sugar was really hard…all of the things that
making chocolate at home and even made her own salt from Pacif-
refined sugar is in like ice cream, brownies and cookies. I figured
ic Ocean water—a process that raised eyebrows when she used her
out how to “unprocess” most of those things—making brownies
parents’ California kitchen as her laboratory.
with honey, and making my own chocolate—but that was hard. And
Post-challenge, Kimble drew on her journalism background to
throughout the year, there were things like cheddar Chex Mix and
craft the experiences from that year into an insightful new book,
snack foods that I thought about. I used to drink a lot of Diet Coke
“Unprocessed: My City-Dwelling Year of Reclaiming Real Food.”
and soda, and in the middle of summer, I really wanted a Diet Coke,
Part memoir, part instruction manual, the book guides readers
but then I had it after my year and it didn’t taste good to me. It tasted
through the different hurdles Kimble faced on her journey; educates
like chemicals. A year was long enough to change how things tasted.
What was your biggest challenge besides the refined sugar? The social aspect of eating out in the world was a big challenge. Food has such strong social connectors, and I never really solved that problem. It would be someone’s birthday at the office and I would decide that I was going to sing “Happy Birthday,” but I wasn’t going to eat the cake. There are so many ways that food permeates our lives that it required constant vigilance to refrain from those moments, and the process of explaining to people who weren’t necessarily close friends why I wasn’t participating—it was awkward to explain why I have this weird eating pattern. During the year, was there any food that you had previously disliked but then changed your mind about?
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There isn’t any particular food, but I started to have a new appreciation for simpler foods. I became more attuned to flavors like really good cheese or really good bread and learned how to make simpler meals and have them be delicious. Since I wasn’t eating all the crazy stuff that is in processed food, I was also more liberal with things like cream, cheese and butter—the delicious fatty foods that I had tried to eat sparingly—and my meals were so much more rich and satisfying. Was there any unexpected learning for you? With every food, I learned something new about how we process it and how it affects us. I struggled with figuring out additives— where they come from and what they do to our bodies. I learned that there are more than 10,000 additives in our food, and the FDA has only regulated half of them. That’s a terrifying statistic. If the FDA can’t keep up with it, how can I as an individual consumer keep up? Were there any tools that you used to help you decipher the additives? Yes—the Center for Science in the Public Interest has an app called Chemical Cuisine that is very helpful. Part of the bargain you have to strike is: When is a certain additive okay (because it’s hard to completely remove them 100 percent of the time)? This app
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Do you still take on some big projects like making your own salt? I don’t make my own salt, but I do occasionally make my own chocolate because I like kitchen projects. It’s fun to make bread, pizza dough and pasta. I still can tomatoes every summer, but some of the projects I wanted to know how to do—like making mead— didn’t turn out that good, and there are people who do that better than I could.
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For someone who wants to start eating less processed food, but maybe doesn’t have the time to dedicate to it like you did, where would you advise them to start? Read the ingredients label on every package of food that you buy. Once you realize what you are eating, it’s almost impossible to not buy different things—it’s that simple act of awareness. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
UNPROCESS YOURSELF: SUGAR From “Unprocessed” by Megan Kimble. Copyright © 2015 by Megan Kimble. Reprinted by permission of William Morrow, an imprint of HarperCollins Publishers. f you’re going to eat something sweet, make it count. The fact that
though I love the portability of a prepackaged bar when I find myself
sugar is really not good for us will not make me stop eating it—life
hungry in a processed-only place.
much more careful about how and when I let sweetness into my life.
liquid, added and in bulk—remember: Sugar is sugar. There are import-
is too short to live without sweetness. Rather, knowing this makes me Check savory foods like mustard or marinara sauce to make sure they don’t have added sugars. Don’t buy presweetened foods, like
When faced with the many varieties of sugar—both granulated and ant differences between types of sugar, but what’s more important than the specifics of each kind is quantity. Less sugar is better sugar.
honey-flavored yogurt or maple-cinnamon oatmeal. Instead, buy
To make chocolate, you’ll need: cacao powder or paste and cacao
plain or un-flavored foods and add the sweetness in yourself. You
butter; a sweetener, like agave or honey; and salt and vanilla extract.
will, I promise, add less than what would have been added for you
Measure two units of cacao powder or paste for every one of cacao
(and skip a bunch of other artificial ingredients). Marinara sauces
butter. Cut the cacao butter into small pieces, which will help it melt
and salad dressings often contain added sugars—whole-wheat bread
evenly. The best way to melt the cacao butter is in a double boiler; if
is another common culprit, as is, unbelievably, deli meat. I’ve seen
you don’t have one, you can balance a glass or aluminum bowl on top
breakfast cereals filled with as many as five kinds of sugar—if you
of a saucepot of hot (not boiling) water. The butter will melt pretty
want a little sweetness to start your morning, add it yourself. Food
quickly; as soon as it becomes liquid, add the powder and whisk until
for Life sells unsweetened granola; so do most natural food stores.
smooth—the mixture should have the consistency of chocolate sauce.
For sweet treats, look for foods that have been sweetened with
Take the bowl off the heat and let the chocolate sauce cool for about
natural sweeteners like honey, maple syrup, molasses, or dates, all of
half an hour, or until it reaches room temperature. Reheat the water
which come packed with good nutrients and are often used in much
and warm the liquid chocolate while stirring; add a tablespoon or two
smaller quantities. Lärabars are my favorite sweet snack, made with
of honey, a pinch of salt, and a dash of vanilla extract. After a minute
some variation of dates, dried fruit, and nuts. You can make home-
or two—while the liquid is still shiny—remove from heat and pour
made Lärabars with a food processor and the same ingredients, al-
into a mold; leave it in the refrigerator for at least an hour to set.
“...a fine embodiment of innovative agricultural and architectural preservation.” ~ edible Austin
Farm Shop • Dining • Lavender Fields • Historic Inn • Organic Farm • Weddings EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
NATURAL SKIN CARE BY E L I Z A B E T H W I N S LOW • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY J E N N A N O RT H C U T T
he skin you’re in is the only skin you’ve got. It only
high levels of polyphenols found in olive oil act as antioxidants
makes sense, then, to take good care of it—it has to
that not only help prevent damage done by the sun but also
last a lifetime. As a protective barrier, our skin can
repair and renew skin that has been overexposed to the sun.”
be occasionally subjected to harsh environmental conditions.
Finding the balance between soaking in essential vitamin D
During the warmer months, this can mean sunburns from high
and not overexposing skin to the point of sunburn is one of the
ultraviolet (UV) exposure and breakouts from sweat, grime and
greatest challenges of the season. Nicholson’s advice: “If you
blocked pores. And while it’s true that skin is a barrier, it’s also
do overexpose, marinate in olive oil! The polyphenols in olive
permeable, so treating summer’s host of skin challenges with
oil will speed your recovery while feeding and nourishing your
chemicals or questionable ingredients isn’t the best plan. Luck-
skin.” Another favorite nourishing oil is avocado oil, which is
ily for us, we have several natural skin care experts in our com-
rich in omega-3 fatty acids and vitamins A, D and E. With its
munity, ready to guide us through taking the best possible care
thin consistency, avocado oil penetrates the skin, but it’s also
of one of our biggest assets.
thick enough to serve as a protective barrier—much like a lo-
Mariska Nicholson’s Texas olive oil-based skin care line
tion—locking in moisture. Apply either oil just like a lotion, and
Olive + M grew out of the desire for an unadulterated, nutri-
use the good stuff—refined oils don’t contain the nutrients that
ent-rich and all-natural skin care solution for herself. Several
extra-virgin oils do.
years ago, she began mixing oil blends in her own kitchen that,
At People’s Pharmacy, Julia Strickler, ND also advises cus-
once applied, made her skin radiant and glowing. Soon, friends
tomers to nourish skin—with a focus on the inside first. “Make
and family began commenting on her youthful-looking skin and
sure to eat foods high in antioxidants and healthy oils,” she says.
asked her to make some of the magic potions for them. Nich-
“And hydrate! Add trace minerals to your water if you’ve been
olson is especially interested in the ways olive oil rejuvenates
sweating or drinking [alcohol].” She also recommends eating
and heals the skin. “We tend to spend more time outside in the
foods rich in vitamin C and collagen and taking high-quality
summer and consequently in the sun,” she says. “Free radicals
supplements, including minerals such as zinc and selenium and
produced by the sunlight cause damage to the skin cells. The
antioxidants such as CoQ10, resveratrol and astraxanthin.
Summer’s high UV exposure is of special concern to Strickler.
she says. Make it easier on your skin by minimizing drying
“These rays from the sun are specifically what trigger sunburns
soaps and long hot showers. Again, load up on vitamin C and
and premature aging,” she says. “Excessive exposure to ultravi-
antioxidants. When damage happens, she advocates single-in-
olet rays can lead to damaged skin cells including the epitheli-
gredient home remedies to help support skin. Keep it simple,
al DNA. The classic symptoms of sunburn, including redness,
she says. “Apply black tea topically for its astringent skin-tight-
swelling and pain, result from the prostaglandins and cytokines
ening purposes to help stressed skin, or cucumbers for rehy-
trying to heal from the acute toxic exposure to the UV rays.
drating tissues—especially the delicate tissues around the eyes.
Eventually, the body begins to heal and sheds the damaged skin
Vinegar or mustard can take the sting out of a sunburn. The key,
when your skin peels after the sunburn.”
again, is don’t overdo it and plan ahead!”
Strickler’s favorite remedy for sunburn? Our good old hero,
Local author and natural skin care advocate Mary Helen
aloe vera. “Try to use a fresh leaf when possible (simply slice
Leonard has written the book on simple, natural-ingredi-
open and rub over affected areas) or the most pure form you
ent remedies. She’s been writing about DIY living for more
can purchase,” she advises. “I keep some sliced aloe leaves
than 10 years on her personal blog, Mary Makes Good, and
ready in the freezer to help with my occasional kitchen burn,
on The Natural Beauty Workshop, an online publication of
but this is also great for sunburns.” Strickler also likes a product
natural skin care ingredient supplier From Nature With Love.
called Miracle Mist. “It’s another personal favorite for topical
Her recently published book, “The Natural Beauty Solution,”
use, as it was designed to help with burn repair by addressing
is a step-by-step guide to replacing the commercial skin- and
the pH and microbial balance of the skin.”
hair-care products in our routine with natural alternatives and
Breakouts from sweat, grime and over-the-counter skin
easy homemade recipes. Like Strickler, Leonard also believes
products are also a focus for the folks Strickler advises. Unfor-
in keeping things as simple as possible—not only for health
tunately, the only real solution is to avoid heat and sun as much
reasons, but also for the sake of economy and convenience.
as possible. Strickler says with a laugh, “Personally I get a rash
An avid cook, she approaches caring for her skin and hair with
from nearly every commercially available sunscreen, so I’m a
the same values she applies to what she does in the kitchen:
huge advocate of covering up!” Above all, hydrate and moisturize,
quality over complexity. For example, a favorite everyday
CILANTRO YOGURT MASK Courtesy of Mary Helen Leonard This creamy mixture of cooling cilantro and soothing cucumber can help to calm upset skin. Yogurt acts as a gentle cleanser by exfoliating the skin with natural lactic acid. Honey adds a touch of moisturizing benefit to the mix, making this a great treat for skin that has been dried out or irritated. ¼ c. plain Greek yogurt ¼ c. chopped fresh cilantro ¹/8 c. seeded and diced cucumber 1 t. honey Combine all the ingredients in a blender or food processor and pulse until smooth. Place the mixture inside a cheesecloth-lined sieve and set over a bowl to strain for at least an hour or overnight. It should thicken after sitting for a while. Spread the mixture over your face—avoiding sensitive areas such as your eyes and nostrils.
facial scrub is made from nothing but rice flour and water. Leonard notes that summer’s sudden changes in temperature and humidity can make it challenging to keep skin balanced. “Add a little extra sweat and grime from outdoor activities,” she says, “and you can see why summer breakouts are so common. Just washing your face a little more often can make a big difference, especially after exercising. If dry skin is a problem, try adding a drop of honey to your usual toner or moisturizer.” Honey, available from local producers in pure form, is a natural humectant and can actually draw moisture to the skin. Locking in moisture is helpful during hot weather when the air is constantly drying out skin. Leonard also advocates the healing properties of the aloe vera plant. “The pure gel [also labeled “juice”] can be bought by the bottle or pressed from fresh leaves. I also love using puréed cucumber, cilantro and plain yogurt to make fresh masks if my skin gets too unhappy.”
BLACK TEA POULTICE Courtesy of Julia Strickler, ND Brew a cup of black tea by pouring heated water over a black tea bag or loose-leaf tea for 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the tea bag or leaves, moisten a cotton ball in the tea and dab gently over skin—the tannins and astringent properties will help to tighten pores. You can also put the tea into a spray bottle and gently spritz the tea over the face and neck. The tea bags can also be applied to the eye areas as a way to help combat puffy eyes. And of course, drink the tea! It’s high in flavonoids and antioxidants, including polyphenols.
FRESH ALOE AND SHEA BODY CREAM Courtesy of Mary Helen Leonard
VINEGAR OR MUSTARD COMPRESS Courtesy of Dr. Julia Strickler, ND Using white vinegar compresses or spritzes can take the sting out of sunburns for some people and also offers antimicrobial benefits. Dilute standard white vinegar (5 percent acetic acid) in a 1-to-1 ratio with pure water, wet a cloth in the mixture then apply directly to sunburned areas. Alternatively, spritz the mixture using a spray bottle with a mister setting. Use caution if there are any cuts or open blisters—vinegar STINGS! Leave the vinegar on for 10 to 15 minutes and then feel free to wash it off to avoid the vinegar smell. Apply full-strength, regular yellow mustard for the same benefits as the vinegar, but use caution: There can still be a bit of sting if there are open areas of skin. If there are any skin cuts or wounds, using full-strength milk topically in a compress is also an option.
RICE FLOUR AND WATER FACIAL SCRUB Courtesy of Mary Helen Leonard Try this easy recipe for an everyday facial scrub. Combine 1 tablespoon rice flour with 1 to 3 teaspoons water—adding more water as necessary to achieve a loose paste consistency.
This simple body cream is made by emulsifying cooling aloe vera and moisturizing shea butter. This recipe makes enough for one generous helping of cream—the perfect amount to moisturize your whole body in one treatment or to spot-treat troublesome patches of dry skin over a couple of days. Adding the optional essential oils of peppermint or chamomile will add a chilly tingle to the cream or give it a soothing anti-inflammatory effect, respectively. 1 t. beeswax (about 5 grams) 1 T. shea butter ¼ t. soy lecithin or pure lanolin 2 T. aloe vera gel/juice ¼ t. honey Pinch sea salt 5 drops peppermint or chamomile essential oil (optional) Combine the beeswax, shea butter and lecithin in a double boiler and heat until fully melted. Stir the ingredients to make sure they’re wellblended. In a second saucepan, heat the aloe vera, honey and salt, and blend well. Remove the wax mixture from the heat and whisk it vigorously as you pour in the hot aloe mixture in a very slow, steady stream. Continue whisking for several minutes as the cream cools. It should become thick and opaque. Stir in the essential oil, if using. The cream will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days but is best used right away.
COOKS at home
JIM SPENCER BY RO B I N C H OT Z I N O F F • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R
never cook,” says KXAN weather forecaster Jim
pensive, and I guess I’m kind of a cheapskate, so I make it in
Spencer. “It’s embarrassing. I like to blame it on the
big quantities, just like my mom did.”
fact that I’m so busy, or that I don’t like the cleanup
Following a method his mother pioneered 30-some-odd
part, or that I’m on a diet. Actually, I am on a diet. I work out
years ago in the small town of Lindsay, Oklahoma, Spencer
with a trainer and he has me on this warrior diet—it dates
opens three large cans of Campbell’s Family Size Tomato
back to the hunters and gatherers. It sounds completely crazy,
Soup. Elbow macaroni gets thrown into boiling water. “And
but you don’t eat before 6:30 p.m., maybe three days a week.”
here’s the secret,” he says. “Instead of adding a can of water
Okay, but what stops him from cooking himself a late dinner? “Busy,” he says sheepishly. “Really, really busy. Over the
for each can of soup, you fill that can up with milk. Making it into CREAM of tomato soup.”
Memorial Day weekend, I was overwhelmed with emails—it
After stirring the salmon-pink concoction around for a few
topped a thousand. People sending crazy cloud photographs;
minutes, he adds the cooked elbow macaroni. “How much de-
people thanking us for our coverage; people commenting
pends on how you’re feeling about your carbs,” Spencer sug-
that they’d never seen a stretch of weather like that.”
gests. “Do you want a piece of pasta in every bite? How filling
Neither had Spencer. May 2015 saw the worst tornado out-
do you want it to be?” He fixes himself a bowl, salts and pep-
break since 1981 and record-breaking catastrophic flooding in
pers it fastidiously and adds saltines—not in just any old way.
the Hill Country as well as the “all-time historic Shoal Creek
There’s an art to it. “I like to float them whole on the surface
flood.” But even without epic weather, Spencer gets more
and then tap them with a spoon till they go under.”
than his share of calls and emails. He’s been on the air at
Spencer has eaten this soup in bed on a tray with fold-
KXAN for 25 years, and at this point, a lot of Austinites think
able legs, but also on his sofa on an autumn afternoon while
of him as their own personal emissary to the climate gods. “I
watching football with friends, because you don’t have to
get letters asking me to forecast the weather for someone’s
need comforting to appreciate comfort food. “I make enough
daughter’s wedding—in October,” he says with a laugh. “I try
to last for DAYS,” he says. “I will feed it to myself, I will feed
to get back to them and tell them what normal is for that time
it to my friends and they will eat it right up.”
of year. People ask me what to do about mosquitoes. I hear from farmers wondering about rain.” And why not? Spencer’s fans seem to share his fascination with weather. He credits a childhood in Oklahoma’s “Tornado Alley” as setting his stage. “When that tornado siren went off, we had to get down in the creepy cellar with the spiders and the storm would rage over…it was scary,” he says. “By third grade, though, I was dying to see this tornado we had to run from.” At age 11—already a seasoned viewer of local TV news— he knew what he wanted to be when he grew up: a weather forecaster in Oklahoma City, the Hollywood of meteorology. It took him a while to accept Austin as a hometown. “But now I love it,” he says. “The weather is just severe enough.” Still, this past spring’s weather was over-the-top traumatic, tragic and exhausting for many. Which brings us to the one dish Spencer actually does know how to prepare. “I learned it from my mother,” he says. “She made it any time we were ill, because it’s a kind of comfort food. It’s also inex-
JIM SPENCER’S “SEVERE” WEATHER SOUP Serves 8–10 1 12-oz. bag large elbow macaroni 3 23½-oz. cans condensed tomato soup About 1½ qt. milk Salt and pepper 1 sleeve saltine crackers Fill a stockpot about half full of water and bring to a boil. Add the macaroni and cook to desired tenderness. While it cooks, add the tomato soup to another large pot, followed by three soup-cans-full of milk. Stir well and bring to a simmer. Drain the cooked pasta and add the desired amount to the soup. Heat everything to your satisfaction. Serve with saltines, salt, pepper and, if desired, a big dash of Tabasco or Tapatío Hot Sauce. For an “extreme makeover” of Spencer’s tomato soup recipe (it’s just a tad more healthy), visit edibleaustin.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
COOKS at home
BEN RUNKLE AND NATALIE DAVIS BY A B BY CA R N EY • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R
s Natalie Davis kneads out the bottom layer of lamb
ability to hold their scotch. “Natalie’s mother and her aunt
for a baked kibbeh, her husband Ben jokes, “Yes, a
have gotten me incredibly drunk making grape leaves with
true butcher wants to make a dish that’s meat stuffed
them on multiple occasions,” he says with a laugh. “Grape
with more meat. But it’s actually a very delicate dish. One of
leaves, or dolmas, are another classic dish in her family, and
the coolest things about it is that you almost make a pastry or
her aunt has a grapevine in her backyard in Queens. We
crust out of the meat, and you make a batter with the bulgur.”
would go out and pick them when they got nice and tender,
Kibbeh, a traditional dish served at nearly every Lebanese
and boil them in a pressure cooker—going through all those
celebration, is typically made two ways: baked and raw. The
steps instead of using the canned leaves. That’s something
baked version, made from a minced leg of lamb, involves two
that even in the best restaurants is hard to do, and it definite-
layers: sautéed lamb and onion atop lamb and bulgur. Every-
ly inspired how we do things at Salt and Time.”
one has their own style and special way of baking it—some
Natalie designs intricate patterns into the top layer of
like it very crispy while others like it a bit thicker. Much at-
lamb after Ben has prepped all of the meats. She’s true to
tention is given to the top layer, which can be designed sim-
form as a designer, which she attributes to her late grandfa-
ply or with great flair, using the most rudimentary of design
ther. “I can hear him yelling at me,” she says, “like, ‘It’s too
tools: a simple butter knife. Raw kibbeh, on the other hand,
thick over here! Really thin it out!’ He was always very par-
is a seasoned lamb tartare made with the same ingredients as
ticular about how things should be done. He’s the one who
the baked version. The couple is making both versions today.
taught me to shine my shoes, and taught me how to decorate
With all of this beautiful, fresh meat being used, and es-
our Easter cookies.”
pecially in light of the couple’s line of work as owners of the
Ben and Natalie volley back and forth with a natural
popular butcher shop and salumeria Salt & Time, it’s hard to
rhythm as they cook and prepare together—Ben dicing cu-
believe that there was a time when they actually eschewed
cumbers for the accompanying cucumber sauce and check-
meat. As people who give much thought and attention to ev-
ing in to be sure he’s achieved the right thickness; Natalie
ery detail of their lives, they’d cut meat out of their diets
approving and, like any great project manager, consulting
as a way to eat intentionally. But as Ben boils it down, “I’m
with her team, as well. She asks Ben what he thinks of the
too much of a skeptic to stick with anything that long.” And
kibbeh’s thickness. It’s just right, he says. “Thanks, Boo,” she
after closing the long-distance stretch of their relationship
and moving in together in Oakland, they joined a meat CSA
After putting the dish in the oven, Natalie gets to work on
program. It was the end of their vegan/vegetarianism, and
the raw kibbeh—a dish, she says, that goes quickly at parties
the beginning of a journey into butchery and cooking meat.
and has even had children fighting over it. Ben suggests add-
“We were getting massive amounts of meat and trying to fig-
ing in spices and tasting as you go, and notes that this is a
ure out what the hell to do with all of it,” he says. “We made
good dish for overcoming “the ick factor” of raw meat. “And
some pretty ridiculous meals and lots of sausage.”
if the meat is prepped right,” he adds, “you don’t have to be
Natalie continues to work the kibbeh while sharing stories
expert at cutting it.”
of her family’s cooking traditions. Since her mother is from
With both dishes finished, the pair confesses that this was
Lebanon and her family emigrated to the U.S. in the ’60s, Na-
their first time making kibbeh together. They’re happy it was
talie says she’s cut from a cloth of “boisterous and opinionat-
documented because Natalie jokes that her family won’t be-
ed, but ultimately very caring” Lebanese cooks. “I come from
lieve it otherwise. Now, eating from a shared victory plate,
a family of project managers,” she jokes.
the couple’s focus shifts to other important milestones, such
Ben remembers being impressed early on with her family’s commitment to quality in their cooking, as well as their
as renovations on their South Austin home and the dog they might adopt. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
BEN AND NATALIE’S “FIRST-TIME” KIBBEH, TWO WAYS Each dish serves 6–8
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For the baked kibbeh: 1 c. pine nuts or blanched slivered almonds Olive oil 2 white onions, diced 1 lb. ground lamb or beef 2 T. sea salt, divided 2 t. cinnamon, divided 2 t. allspice, divided 2 t. cumin, divided 1 c. bulgur 1¼ lb. boneless leg of lamb (ask your butcher for completely denuded meat, free of fat or sinew) 1 small white onion, chopped To make the baked kibbeh: Toast the nuts in a dry skillet and set aside. Coat a hot skillet with olive oil, add the diced onions and cook until they soften and begin to become translucent. Add the ground meat and a pinch each of the salt, cinnamon, allspice and cumin, then brown for approximately 10 minutes. Add the nuts and continue to cook until the meat is thoroughly cooked. Strain off the fat and set aside. Heat the oven to 350°. Cover the bulgur in water and soak. Mince the leg of lamb by hand or with a meat grinder. Pour the bulgur into a fine mesh strainer and press out as much water as possible. Place the minced lamb, bulgur, chopped onion and the rest of the spices into a food processor and blend into a smooth paste. (Do it in batches, if needed.) Adjust the seasoning to taste* (you can taste it raw IF you bought fresh, high-quality lamb), using more seasoning in this mixture than in the sautéed lamb. Coat a 14-inch baking dish with olive oil (a round pan is preferable). Make a thin layer of lamb and bulgur mixture on the bottom and sides of the dish, like a pie crust. Place a layer of the sautéed lamb and onion mixture over the crust. Top with another layer of lamb and bulgur mixture—using your fingers to flatten the meat across the top. Use a butter knife to cut pie slices and then a crosshatch pattern (try to only cut through the top layer). Make a ¼-inch hole in the center with your finger. (This helps it cook evenly and makes it easier to serve.) Drizzle a generous amount of olive oil over the top. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the top is brown and crispy. Serve with the cucumber sauce. To make the raw kibbeh*: Use approximately 1 cup of the raw lamb and bulgur mixture and add an additional ¼-cup soaked bulgur. Top with a small amount of the sautéed lamb and onion mixture and serve with pita bread, raw scallions and radishes. *Note from the Health Department: Consuming raw or undercooked meats, poultry, seafood, shellfish, or eggs may increase your risk of foodborne illness.
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COOKS at home
THE QUESADAS BY C L A I R E C E L L A • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R
he Quesada family is prismatic. Not because of the rain-
we need some green in there.’ I’m definitely into making sure
bow-striped skirt that greets me at their front door,
there’s a color balance. I don’t like when things are too much of
worn by galloping younger daughter Marcelle. And not
one color. I’m not a purist.”
because of the productive prowess that emanates from parents
She incorporates this variation into Craftbox Agency—the
Celeste and Adrian, founders of Craftbox Agency and Level One
business she started in 2010 as a platform for doing what she
Studios, respectively. No, this family of four (not including a dog,
does best. Over the past 17 years, Celeste has been producing
two parakeets and three chickens) is prismatic in the way that
momentous events such as the Austin Music Awards and the
they’re multidimensional—at once crisp, clean and polished, but
Austin Film Society’s Texas Film Hall of Fame Awards; orga-
at the same time, courageously colorful, often in refreshingly un-
nizing fundraising galas for nonprofits such as the SIMS Foun-
dation; and managing marketing strategies for Austin retailers,
As they cook together in their narrow kitchen, they each bring
restaurateurs, musicians and nonprofits. “I named it Craftbox
something to the project. Adrian’s admiration for his family is
because I wanted to be very diverse and to mimic a toolbox that
pronounced, while Celeste’s energy spins around an infatuation
I could pull out any tool that I needed for a specific job or hire
with the taste, texture and smell of spice—from chopped peppers,
the people that I wanted to work with,” she says.
to dashes of hot sauce, to heavy sprinkles of cumin. Their older
Adrian is also a master at diversification of talent. He’s the
daughter Amelie’s perhaps-inherited meticulousness surfaces as
drive behind Level One Studios, the production studio and cre-
she slowly stacks avocado atop perfect triangles of quesadilla.
ative music lab based in their house. Adrian has produced music
And Marcelle’s rompish little spirit bounces around the room and
for David Garza, Daniel Johnston, Suzanna Choffel, and the band
never ceases to be anything but cute.
The Sword, in addition to musical scores for documentaries such
The family’s proud Latin American heritage is ever-present—
as “Inside the Circle.” But this multi-instrumentalist and Gram-
in the eclectic art that fills almost every white space of wall,
my award winner is also renowned for his own philharmonic
in the Spanish they use with fluency and in the piquant dishes
flair in bands such as Spanish Gold, The Echocentrics, Ocote
they’re preparing today. Celeste chops carrots, rainbow chard
Soul Sounds, Grupo Fantasma and most recently, Brownout.
and onions for a traditional Mexican breakfast dish similar to
The Quesadas’ daily menu often mimics Celeste’s and Adrian’s
huevos en rabo de mestiza (poached eggs in tomato-chili sauce),
natural ability to variegate. Main meals are usually vegetable
but the Quesadas don’t really have a name for this dish—they
gumbo, stew or hash, which serve as hearty, colorful scoops to
just know they love it. The idea for it came from their favorite
place atop spaghetti, beans, rice or…“Pizza!” Marcelle enthusi-
breakfast spot, La Estancia (in Laredo) where they often visit
astically chimes in from below, causing everyone in the cozy
extended family. As she chops, Celeste reminisces about the
kitchen to laugh. She and Amelie have since snuck back inside
homemade tortillas and fiery red salsas her grandmother made
and now clutch two brown eggs in their small hands. As the dish
her as a child. Meanwhile, Marcelle and Amelie rummage in the
comes together, Celeste adds the sauce to the sautéed vegeta-
fridge for their own tortillas to take out to the chickens, each
bles, then fills the deep basin of the warmed molcajete, a Mexi-
sneaking little crescent bites from the flat rounds with not-so-
can version of a mortar, used to grind, mix and serve. On top, she
adds cheese and breaks the fresh eggs into wells.
“I do not make homemade tortillas, though,” Celeste admits
With all of the Quesadas in the kitchen, it’s easy to imagine the
with a laugh. “Because it’s 2015, I’ve got two kids and I’m com-
chaos that can erupt during early weekday hours. As if on cue, Mar-
pletely overbooked.” But she does cook. “I don’t know if I’m a
celle tugs on her mother’s pants pleading for a bowl of edamame,
good cook,” she says, “but I do like to. I don’t really use a cook-
while Amelie insists that she would rather eat quesadillas. Celeste
book though—I’m not very precise.” This is a surprising admis-
and Adrian comply, smiling. “We’re a very normal family of four,”
sion from an accomplished events planner, but she quickly ex-
Celeste says. “There are no pretenses about this.”
plains that it’s all about the colors. “I’ll look at a dish or a group
Family is, after all, the foundation for Celeste’s and Adrian’s
of ingredients and say, ‘Okay, it’s got a lot of red and orange, but
relationship. Although the two met through work 13 years ago EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
with careers in this industry who want a family,” Adrian says. “People were shocked,” Celeste says about her decision to move from New York to Austin to be with Adrian. “I had been working for the BBC. But I felt certain that it wasn’t that I wouldn’t have a career; it was just that, I wanted it all—a family, my own business—and I was just going to go for it. Our little casita Quesada was meant to be. This is what it was going to be.” And with that, the dish is ready to come out of the oven—the eggs now ivory and gold, nestled in red and green and orange. Celeste walks the molcajete outside where it now sits atop a table cloaked in white lace, embellished with succulents and graced by not one but three bottles of hot sauce. Outside, it’s much quieter, but there’s still a soundtrack: the padding of small feet in the wet grass, the clink of utensils, the clucking chickens and the giggles from Marcelle and Amelie. Adrian digs into the dish—noting that the one in Laredo is just a simple red ranchero sauce. “But this one, here—ours—we definitely add more vegetables: carrots, rainbow chard and herbs,” he says, as he scoops and connected through their shared passions for music and cul-
a pile onto Celeste’s plate, the thick crimson sauce spreading over
tural arts, it was their unconventional and unyielding desire for
it, ready to be soaked up by waiting tortillas. “There’s definitely
a family that kept them together. “You don’t always find people
more color here.”
ADRIAN AND CELESTE QUESADA’S “MOLCAJETE DE MANITAS” (The Quesadas decided to name this dish in honor of their daughters’ little hands that always seem to be busy in the kitchen.) Serves 4–6 Special equipment needed: A molcajete Olive oil to prep the molcajete 1 garlic clove to prep the molcajete Splash of olive oil 2 lb. tomatoes, chopped 1 c. onion, slivered or thinly sliced, divided 1 garlic clove, minced 2 bay leaves 3 T. olive oil 1–2 c. chopped veggies (Celeste’s favorites are kale, spinach, fresh corn, rainbow chard, carrots and bell peppers) Juice of 1 lime Salt, pepper, ancho chili powder, oregano and cumin, to taste ½ c. queso fresco, crumbled 1–2 eggs 1 t. kosher or sea salt, or to taste 1 ripe avocado, sliced and drizzled with a little lemon juice Crème fraîche or sour cream, optional Cilantro, washed and chopped Corn tortillas or toast, optional Lime wedges for serving Heat the oven to 450°. Oil the inside of the molcajete and rub it with the fresh garlic clove. Place it on a cookie sheet so the little legs don’t slip through the oven rack and put it in the oven to warm. In a medium saucepan, sauté the tomatoes, half the onions, the garlic and bay leaves in a splash of olive oil. Cover with water and bring to a boil over me84
dium-high heat. Simmer until thoroughly cooked—about 10 minutes. Take out the bay leaves, place the mixture in a blender and puree until smooth (if you don’t have a blender, don’t worry about it). In a large, heavy-bottomed pan set over medium heat, pour in the oil. Once hot, cook the rest of the onion—stirring now and then, until soft and translucent—about 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in the veggies and let them cook for 1 or 2 minutes. Pour in the tomato sauce, add the lime juice, sprinkle in the seasonings, to taste, and let it thicken for about 10 to 12 minutes (you can make this sauce ahead of time and refrigerate it). Carefully add the mixture to the molcajete while it’s still in the oven, sprinkle the cheese on top and then crack in an egg or two. Sprinkle the salt on top of the eggs, then close the oven and let them poach to the desired consistency (cooked whites with runny yolks take about 4 to 5 minutes). Once it’s ready, tell all children and dogs to get out of the kitchen and carefully pull the molcajete out of the oven. (Y’all, this thing is HOT and stays hot for a while. ¡Cuidate!) Garnish with the ripe avocado slices and crème fraîche or sour cream and fresh cilantro, if desired. Serve with slightly charred tortillas and maybe an extra squeeze of lime.
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FERMENTED RELISHES BY KATE PAYNE • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JO ANN SANTANGELO
hanksgiving and holiday feasts are times to fill plates,
excellent candidate for fermenting projects—and relishes are a
enjoy the company of friends and family and savor fall’s
versatile route to incorporate them into any feast.
arrival with hearty root vegetables and long-roasted fare.
Cranberries have a uniquely American history to boot. In-
But my favorite thing about this time of year is the cranberries.
digenous to North America, they’re native from Wisconsin to
Within the last few years of teaching about the health benefits
Maine—stretching as far south as North Carolina to the Ap-
of fermentation, I’ve become more interested in incorporating
palachian Mountains. Native Americans used them for food,
fermented foods into holiday feasts, for both the benefit of tra-
medicine and to treat food poisoning. They’re full of antioxi-
dition and digestion. Much to my delight, cranberries are an
dants and are thought to help liver function, prevent urinary
tract infections, offer anticarcinogenic compounds and vita-
might not be much of a flavor difference with some relish-
min C, fiber and an array of phytonutrients. Add fermentation
es or condiments that are already tart from vinegar, but rest
to the mix and we have a superfood!
assured, live cultures and a nutrient boost have been add-
Lacto-fermentation is the process of adding salt to vegetables and fruits to create a suitable environment for very spe-
ed—tasty reasons why an extra scoop of chutney or relish dolloped on that serving of turkey is a good idea.
cific types of bacteria to grow and thrive and, in turn, slowly acidify the food. Lactobacillus bacteria produces lactic acid—responsible for the tart and sour flavors—when it eats the sugars in the vegetables and fruits (the salt inhibits other microorganisms from causing spoilage). The other type of fermentation that everyone is no doubt familiar with, alcohol, involves adding sugar instead of salt and allowing yeast and other microbes to eat that sugar in a controlled environment to produce beer, wine, mead and other tasty libations. Lacto-fermented foods help us digest other foods we consume when eaten in small, supplemental quantities at every meal. Fermentation unlocks certain vitamins and minerals that were not accessible to us in the raw materials; for example, B vitamins 1–3, riboflavin, niacin and thiamin levels all increase when a vegetable or fruit is fermented. Additionally, fermented foods offer detoxifying and anticarcinogenic compounds that are the byproducts of bacteria breaking down larger compounds within our food. And then there are the probiotics, the benefits of which are well-documented. Live cultures of good bacteria jumpstart our immune system every time we eat them, which is a really great reason to start fermenting relishes and condiments. There are two ways to ferment relishes. The first method involves combining all of the raw materials and fermenting them together. The second involves culturing any existing relish or condiment with whey or water kefir. Whey is easy to obtain from store-bought plain yogurt or from the process of making yogurt at home. Whey is rich in minerals, enzymes and live cultures such as lactobacillus, which makes it a great starter culture. To obtain whey from existing yogurt, set a wire mesh strainer over a glass bowl. Dampen and wring out a piece of fine-weave muslin and place it over the strainer. Pour the contents of a 1-quart container of plain, whole-milk yogurt into the strainer and let it sit for up to an hour. This will produce a thick, Greek-style yogurt that is delicious drizzled with honey (or saved and topped with fermented cranberry relish) and about 1 cup of whey dripped into the bowl below. Straining for longer will yield a yogurt cheese and even more whey. Whey keeps in the refrigerator for up to 1 month. (My book, “Hip Girl’s Guide to the Kitchen,” offers a list of “10 whey cool things to do with whey” if you want more ideas of how to use it.) Use the ratio of 1 tablespoon of whey to culture up to 1 cup (8 ounces) of relish, sauce or any condiment. Allow the culturing to take place by leaving the mixture covered at room temperature for 24 hours. Depending on the base item, the culture may make it taste a bit more sour or tart. There
FERMENTED CRANBERRY RELISH Yields 1 pint 1 orange, peeled, seeds removed 1 medium apple, cored ½ c. fresh or frozen cranberries 2 T. coconut palm sugar (may sub brown or regular sugar) 1 t. cinnamon ¼ t. fine sea salt 2 T. whey Combine all of the ingredients except for the whey in a food processor and pulse to chop and combine. Do not puree. Transfer the contents to a pint-size mason jar and stir in the whey. Cap the jar and allow the relish to sit at room temperature for 1 to 3 days. Check on the jar daily—stirring the mixture with a clean spoon. Taste the relish and let it continue to ferment if a more sour taste is preferred. Place the finished jar in the refrigerator where it will continue to slowly ferment. Eat within 3 to 6 months for optimal flavor.
CRANBERRY RELISH, TRADITIONAL AND CULTURED Yields 1 pint 1 cinnamon stick, crushed 8 cloves ¼ t. cardamom seeds 2 c. fresh or frozen cranberries 1 c. apple cider vinegar 1 /³ c. sugar 1 /³ c. golden raisins 1 /³ c. dried cranberries 3 T. honey 2 T. whey Create a spice packet by wrapping the cinnamon, cloves and cardamom in a small piece of muslin or securing them inside a muslin tea bag and set aside. Combine the remaining ingredients except for the whey in a heavy-bottomed saucepan or enameled cast-iron pan. Add the spice packet and simmer for 20 to 40 minutes, or until the syrup in the mixture thickens and the bubbles are spaced out, darker and glassy in appearance. Pour the relish into a clean, pint-size mason jar and cool to room temperature. To culture it, add the whey when the mixture is no hotter than 80°. Stir to combine. Cap the jar and allow it to sit at room temperature for 24 hours. Place the jar in the refrigerator where it will keep for up to 6 months. If not culturing, place the jar in the refrigerator after it has cooled sufficiently and follow the storage guideline above.
CAPITAL AREA FOOD BANK
WHAT ORANGE CAN DO BY HANK PERRET President and CEO of Capital Area Food Bank of Texas
range is unique. While the word has
the “Pecan Capital of the World.” The couple
few rhyming buddies in the English
traveled across the country transporting nuts
language, it’s well connected to cui-
until the ’70s, when work began to dwindle and
sines in the kitchen. It’s the color of pumpkin
eventually dried up. Augustina says they chan-
pie—a Thanksgiving must-have. It’s the sweet,
neled other talents and worked from home, but
tangy fruit most consumed by children. And
as she’s aged, she’s battled medical conditions.
it’s the color of squash—a vegetable that can
She suffered her first stroke in the ’80s, a sec-
transform into a variety of savory sidekicks.
ond one in the ’90s (the same year her husband
But to food banks across the nation, or-
passed away) and her third in the early 2000s.
ange is more than the color of some of the food
Relying only on her husband’s life insur-
distributed to an estimated 37 million people
ance and unable to work, Augustina makes and
in need. It’s the campaign color of “Hunger
sells handcrafted blankets for extra income.
Action Month” each September—a month
“The insurance from my husband’s death is
dedicated to bringing awareness to the hunger
what I used to pay the light and water,” she
issue affecting those who are food-insecure.
says. “But sometimes, it’s not enough to even
In Central Texas, the Capital Area Food
buy myself shoes or a dress. I don’t know what
Bank (CAFB) serves 46,000 clients each week with the help of near-
I would do without the food pantry.”
ly 300 partner agencies throughout 21 counties. The face of hunger
Without the San Saba Food Pantry, a CAFB partner agency,
doesn’t just require emergency relief, but resources that can lead to
Augustina would struggle to put food on the table. And she’s just
a sustainable life. The realities of low wages, increased cost of living
one of many who struggle to make ends meet. Unfortunately, until
and dwindling social services support have made food banks one of
we make hunger issues a priority in Central Texas, she won’t be
the main sources of the nourishment hard-working families need.
Throughout the year, but especially in September, CAFB is at the
Donors, volunteers and advocates make it possible for the food
frontline of advocacy—reminding us that one in six Central Texans
bank to connect more people to healthy food and reduce the health
is at risk for hunger, like Augustina.
risks associated with an insufficient diet. Let’s work together to fo-
Augustina was born and raised in the small town of San Saba, Texas. In the early ’50s and ’60s, she and her late husband made their living harvesting pecans—the given career for many living in
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cus on a different version of orange this September and make a real difference in the lives of Central Texans. Visit austinfoodbank.org for more information.
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Culinary herbs for chefs— and fruit trees, veggies and native plants for gardeners
Sign up for free gardeners tips newsletter at
GREEN CORN PROJECT
A LITTLE HELP BY RENEE STUDEBAKER
he Green Corn Project (GCP) just got a little greener thanks to a smart idea from longtime volunteers Liz and Wayne Kesterson: The couple suggested adding monarch butterfly
host plants to the nonprofit group’s spring vegetable garden installations. “We’re both avid butterfly gardeners,” says Liz. “And we know the monarchs are in severe decline. So the thought occurred to us that if we could simply add a couple of milkweed seedlings in each garden that Green Corn Project installed or refurbished each season, we could help the monarchs in their migration.” Milkweed is the monarch caterpillar’s only food source, and of course drawing pollinators to any garden is always a good thing. The GCP board members were unanimous in their support for the suggestion. “The milkweed project was a great idea,” says the board’s co-president Carla Crownover. “And our garden recipients were very happy to add milkweed to their gardens.”
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Teams of volunteers planted about 20 native milkweed seedlings (Asclepias tuberosa) in about 10 gardens during the spring planting season. Funds to pay for the project came from a matching grant from the ExxonMobil Foundation via its Volunteer Involvement Program. (Wayne was a longtime employee of Exxon until he retired in 2001.) “The program encourages current and former Exxon employees to volunteer,” says Liz. “And they’ll send the [nonprofit]
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organization a grant of five hundred dollars for each twenty hours of volunteer work done during a year. We each spent at least twenty hours on GCP projects during the past year, so we applied for, and received, a thousand dollars in grant payments.” It takes a number of grants like this one every year, along with a core group of dedicated volunteers, to keep the GCP on track with its mission to make organic, homegrown vegetables and herbs more accessible to families and community organizations in low-income areas. And now, with the Kesterson milkweed project, the GCP can also help make organic, homegrown milkweed more accessible to the monarchs who, along with their caterpillars, need it to support the Texas leg of the annual migratory journey from Mexico to the northern United States and Canada. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
Free-range venison, antelope, and wild boar meat Diamond H Ranch Quail Dorper Lamb
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Boggy Creek Farm MARKET DAYS:
Wednesday and Saturday 8 AM to 1 PM www.boggycreekfarm.com
Visit Bug-Bouncer.com to find a local retailer near you
THE DIRECTORY ARTISANAL FOODS Antonelli’s Cheese Shop We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class or host a private guided event. Free tastings daily. 512-531-9610 4220 Duval St. antonellischeese.com
Broken Arrow Ranch We field harvest truly wild animals for high-quality free-range venison, antelope and wild boar meat. Diamond H Ranch Quail from Bandera also available. 800-962-4263 3296 Junction Hwy., Ingram brokenarrowranch.com
Edis Chocolates Handmade chocolate truffles and fine desserts, free of preservatives and additives. Our desserts are made with fair trade chocolate. Excellent gluten-free options. 512-795-9285 3808 Spicewood Springs Rd., Ste 102 edischocolates.com
BAKERIES Blue Note Bakery Blue Note Bakery is Austin’s premier custom cake shop, meticulously creating one-of-akind desserts for your special occasions. 512-797-7367 4201 S. Congress Ave., Ste. 101 bluenotebakery.com
Tiny Pies Tiny Pies are just like grandma made only smaller. Both savory & sweet. We cater, offer corporate gifting ideas, deliver locally & ship nationally. 512-916-0184 5035 Burnet Rd. tinypies.com
BEVERAGES Becker Vineyards Winery, vineyards, and tasting room with wines for tasting and for sale. Lavender fields, lavender products and annual Lavender Fest. 830-644-2681 464 Becker Farms Rd., Stonewall beckervineyards.com
Brooklyn Brewery Leading the world in beers made in Brooklyn. 718-486-7422 brooklynbrewery.com
Compass Rose Cellars Lone Star Foodservice Lone Star Foodservice is a famly-owned wholesale meat company, whose mission is to source and deliver the finest cuts of natural beef, pork and lamb to tables across Texas. 512-646-6218 1403 E. 6th St. lonestarfood.com
Sweet Ritual Artisanal microcreamery featuring 17 flavors of alternative ice cream - made with cashew, almond and coconut bases. Gluten-free options. Dairy and egg free. 512-666-8346 4500 Duval St. sweetritual.com
Texas Olive Ranch Fresh Texas-grown extra virgin olive oil from Carrizo Springs, infused olive oil and balsamic vinegar at farmers markets in Austin, SA, NB, Houston, Dallas. 877-461-4708 texasoliveranch.com
Experience chef-inspired dining at our intimate winery with breathtaking Hill Country views at Compass Rose Cellars in Hye, TX. Worth the journey. 830-868-7799 1197 Hye-Albert Rd., Hye compassrosecellars.com
High Brew Coffee A low calorie, cold-brew coffee made of the highest quality ingredients in a handy 8 oz. can providing a smooth, bold experience that is Better, Not Bitter™. 512-853-9696 highbrewcoffee.com
Real Ale Brewing Co.
Wedding Oak Winery
Handcrafted beer that is unfiltered, unpasteurized, and only in Texas. Visit us in Blanco for pints, flights, and free tours 11am - 5pm, Thu - Sat. 830-833-2534 realalebrewing.com
Texas winery using 100% Texas grown wine grapes located in a historic 1926 building. Open 7 days a week. Specializes in Mediterranean varietals. Great patio. 325-372-4050 316 E. Wallace, San Saba weddingoakwinery.com
Spec’s Wine Spirits and Finer Foods Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’ largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more! 512-366-8260 4978 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893 10515 N. MoPac Hwy. 512-280-7400 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981 13015 Shops Pkwy. 512-366-8300 5775 Airport Blvd. specsonline.com
SquareRüt Kava Bar Kava is known to ease anxiety and stress as well as relax your muscles while bringing clarity to your mind. Come chill out at SquareRüt Kava Bar. 512-382-9293 6000 S. Congress Ave. 512-452-5282 5000 N. Lamar Blvd. squarerut.com
Texas Hills Vineyard Winemaking, wine sales, tasting room, patio for picnics, gifts, award-winning wines, fun-loving staff and a beautiful place to visit. 930-868-2321 878 RR 2766, Johnson City texashillsvineyard.com
Total Wine With a Texas-sized selection, Total Wine & More has a wine to pair with whatever Austin is planning for dinner. 512-892-8763 5601 Brodie Ln., Sunset Valley totalwine.com
Kuhlman Cellars Join us Friday-Sunday for an intimate Sommelier guided wine tasting including chef-designed, small-bite, cuisine custom paired with each wine. 512-920-2675 18421 E. US 290, Stonewall kuhlmancellars.com
Paula’s Texas Spirits Paula’s Texas Orange Liqueur & Paula’s Texas Lemon Liqueur—all natural and handmade in Austin since 2006. Available throughout Texas. paulastexasspirits.com
Twin Liquors Family owned and Authentically Austin™ since 1937 - Twin Liquors helps customers match wine and spirits to every occasion. 75 Central Texas locations. 1-855-350-TWIN (8946) 512-451-7400 1000 E. 41st St. #810 512-402-0060 12528 Texas 71, Bee Cave 512-872-4220 210 University Blvd, Ste. 120, Round Rock twinliquors.com
BOOKSELLERS BookPeople Texas’ leading independent bookstore since 1970. Located in the heart of downtown, BookPeople has been voted best bookstore in Austin for over 15 years! 512-472-5050; 603 N. Lamar Blvd. bookpeople.com
University of Texas Press Our mission is to advance and disseminate knowledge through the publication of books and journals and through electronic media. 512-252-3206 utexaspress.com
CATERING AND MEAL DELIVERY Coté Catering Coté Catering is a boutique farm-totable catering company dedicated to creating exciting, fresh cuisine for weddings, parties, and events of all kinds. Our seasonal, sustainable menus will entertain and delight your guests. 512-638-2144 cotecatering.com
Pink Avocado Catering A custom catering company specializing in tailored menus, incredible food and surprisingly personal service. 512-656-4348 401 Sabine St. Ste. B pinkavocadocatering.com
Spoon & Co. Catering It’s our business to delight you with the details, memorable events with mindfully chosen, prepared and presented food and a caring crew! 512-912-6784 spoonadco.com
DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION Texas Oven Co. Experts in designing and building wood-burning ovens. Our handcrafted ovens are fire-breathing works of art. We are also a Forno Bravo pizza oven dealer. 512-222-6836 texasovenco.com
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM COOKS COOKS2015 2015
Get to know the farmers in the Finger Lakes, the artisans of Michiana, the vintners in Vancouver and more as we serve up the best local food stories from the fields and kitchens of edible communities. edible BLUE RIDGE
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Number 25 Winter 2015
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Quicks Hole Tavern ● CBI’s Farm Manager Joshua Schiff ● Cape Cod ARK ● R.A. Ribb’s Custom Clam Rakes
Farmers’ Markets, Food and WWI I on Cape Cod ● Off-Shore Lobstering ● Pawpaws ● Cultivating Crustaceans
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Celebrating local, fresh foods in Dallas, Fort Worth and North Texas—Season by Season
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Fall Comfort Food OBERLIN • GRANARIES OF MEMORY • INTEGRATION ACRES • STONEFIELD NATURALS SCHMALTZ • THE APPLE • WILLOW BASKETS • OHIO’S HISTORIC BARNS
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Cracking Spring HILLBILLY ACRES FARM • GRAVY • SASSY SAUSAGE BIANCA’S FRIDGE • BEER FOR BREAKFAST BACKYARD CHICKENS • SONNY SALT
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We are a local design studio that specializes in creating the home you dream of with our passion in kitchen, bath, and interior design. 512-596-2927 4646 Mueller Blvd., Ste. 1050 troodesignskbi.com
The Rainwater Revival is set for Sat, Nov 7 in Dripping Springs. A FREE event to learn about rainwater harvesting -- speakers, vendors, food, music, fun! 512-479-9426 Dripping Springs Ranch Park & Event Center rainwaterrevival.com
Recycling The Past
Dreaming of a new kitchen or bath? No one helps homeowners bring their vision to life better than Ferguson Bath, Kitchen & Lighting Gallery. 512-445-5140 700 E. St. Elmo Rd. ferguson.com/content/showrooms
EDUCATION The Natural Epicurean At The Natural Epicurean, we train professional chefs, health coaches, and consumers in plant-based health-supportive culinary techniques. 512-476-2276 1700 S. Lamar Blvd. naturalepicurean.com
Architecture, design and nature all collide at our 12,000 sq. foot sales and event venue in Round Top, TX. Procurers of architectural salvage and oddities. 609-618-7606 1132 N. FM 1291, Round Top recyclingthepast.com
Texas Reds Festival Texas Reds Festival is a two-day festival that celebrates beef and wine! Held in Historic Downtown Bryan, the festival also features live music & artists. 979-822-4920 texasredsfestival.com
Lone Star Farmers Market Providing fresh fruits, vegetables and quality products. Located at The Shops at the Galleria every Sunday from 10 am–2 pm in the Lowe’s parking lot. 512-924-7503 12611 Shops Pkwy., Ste. 100, Bee Cave lonestarfarmersmarket.com
Dripping with Taste Festival
Sustainable Food Center
All the flavors of Texas in one fun afternoon. Distilled spirits, wines and craft beers, great hill country food, artisans, music, grape stomp & much more! 512-858-4740 1042 Event Center Dr., Dripping Springs drippingwithtaste.com
Gruene Music & Wine Fest This Americana event benefiting the United Way features the best in live Texas music and the best in Texas food and wines at Gruene Hall and The Grapevine. 830-629-5077 1281 Gruene Rd., New Braunfels gruenemusicandwinefest.org
SFC cultivates a healthy community by strengthening the local food system and improving access to nutritious, affordable food. 512-236-0074 400 W. Guadalupe St. 3200 Jones Rd., Sunset Valley 2835 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. 4600 Lamar Blvd. 2921 E. 17 St., Bldg C (Office) sustainablefoodcenter.org
Sundays 11 am–3 pm. Come celebrate local food, art and live music every Sunday at our unique East Austin market! We accept SNAP/WIC. Free parking. 512-553-1832 401 Comal St. hopefarmersmarket.org
Niman Ranch Niman Ranch raises livestock traditionally, humanely and sustainably to bring you the finest tasting meat in the world. 510-808-0330 nimanranch.com
Royalty Pecan Farms A family owned & operated pecan farm featuring a gift shop, event venue and tourist attraction. Great source for fresh Texas pecans, pies, breads and gifts. 979-272-3904 10600 State Hwy 21 E, Caldwell royaltypecans.com
FINANCIAL Capital Farm Credit Capital Farm Credit is your financial lending partner, providing loans for recreational land, home loans and small and large acreage tracts. 512-892-4425 5900 Southwest Pkwy., Ste. 501 512-715-9239 301 W. Polk St., Burnet 979-968-5750 456 N. Jefferson St., La Grange 512-398-3524 1418 S. Colorado St., Lockhart 830-626-6886 426 S. Seguin Ave., New Braunfels capitalfarmcredit.com
FARMS Burg’s Corner
830-693-2815 100 Avenue G., Marble Falls marblefalls.org
Gabriel Valley Farms
With over 20 craft beers on hand along with live music and genuine German cuisine, Oktoberfest in La Grange is a must! Join us October 10th on the Square! 979-968-3017 oktoberfestlagrange.eventbrite.com
We are a wholesale nursery specializing in growing certified organic herb & vegetable plants. Look for our “yellow tag” plants at your favorite nursery. 512-930-0923 gabrielvalleyfarms.com
Selling the highest quality natural and organic products. 512-542-2200 525 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-5003 9607 Research Blvd. 512-206-2730 12601 Hill Country Blvd., Bee Cave 512-358-2460 4301 W. William Cannon wholefoodsmarket.com
HEALTH AND BEAUTY Hill Country Memorial Hospital Hill Country Memorial is a nationally recognized nonprofit hospital in Fredericksburg with a reputation of delivering remarkable care. 830-997-4353 1020 S. State Hwy. 16, Fredericksburg 830-428-2345 1580 S. Main St., Ste. 101, Boerne 844-362-7426 1331 Bandera Hwy., Ste. 3, Kerrville 830-693-7942 2511 US Highway 281, Ste. 800, Marble Falls 830-798-1821 204 Gateway N., Ste. B, Marble Falls hillcountrymemorial.org
Peoples Rx Austin’s favorite pharmacy for more than 30 years, Peoples integrates nutrition, supplements and medicine with natural remedies and custom Rx compounding. 512-219-9499 13860 Hwy. 183 N., Ste. C 512-459-9090 4018 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-444-8866 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-327-8877 4201 Westbank Dr. peoplesrx.com
Wiseman Family Practice
Fredericksburg peaches. Local fruit and vegetable stand. Peach ice cream. Peach Cider. Over 100 Texas gourmet jarred products. Sweet snacks and gifts. 830-644-2604 15194 E. US Hwy 290, Stonewall burgscorner.com
Marble Falls/Lake LBJ Chamber of Commerce
Whole Foods Market
Austin Alfresco is an exclusive food and wine overnight glamping retreat and festival. Located on picturesque Carson Creek Ranch near downtown Austin, TX. 512-758-9076 austinalfresco.com
HOPE Farmers Market at Plaza Saltillo
We bring the farm to your door, offering home or office delivery of local produce, meat, dairy, eggs, and local, artisanal products. 512-529-8569 farmhousedelivery.com
Royal Blue Grocery Downtown Austin’s neighborhood grocer—with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine, Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient and compact format. Catering too! 512-499-3993; 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700; 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888; 609 Congress Ave. 512-386-1617; 301 Brazos St., Ste. 101 512-480-0036; 51 Rainey St. royalbluegrocery.com
Wiseman Family Practice is an integrative medical practice in Austin, Tx that focuses on health education and natural approaches to wellness. 512-345-8970 2500 S. Lakeline Blvd. Ste. 100, Cedar Park 3345 Bee Caves Rd., Ste. 101 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. wisemanfamilypractice.com
HOUSEWARES AND GIFTS Callahan’s General Store Austin’s real general store…hardware to western wear, from feed to seed! 512-385-3452 501 Bastrop Hwy. callahansgeneralstore.com
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Der Küchen Laden
Retail gourmet kitchen shop, featuring cookware, cutlery, bakeware, small electrics, textiles and kitchen gadgets. 830-997-4937 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg littlechef.com
We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices. 512-288-6113 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd. naturalgardeneraustin.com
The Herb Bar
LODGING AND TOURISM
Best place to cure what ails you and a healing resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate. 512-444-6251 200 W. Mary St. theherbbar.com
Slavonk & Hortus Slavonk & Hortus’ unfurling world of terraria is a place to purchase and make terrariums. We make deliveries to the Greater Austin Area and offer custom event design. 888-272-6499 11525 Manchaca Rd. slavonkandhortus.com
Bastrop Culinary District With over 18 restaurants and 11 food related businesses, historic downtown Bastrop has something for every palate. Come visit and experience the food! 512-303-0904 visitbastrop.com
Blanco Chamber of Commerce & Tourism Bureau
LANDSCAPE AND GARDENING
Discover the fun and beauty of the Texas Hill Country in Blanco. We are your source of where to eat, shop, stay and play in Blanco. 830-833-5101 312 Pecan St., Blanco blancochamber.com
Barton Springs Nursery
Brenham/Washington County CVB
Locally grown Texas native plants. Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil amendments. Beautiful gifts. 512-328-6655 3601 Bee Caves Rd. bartonspringsnursery.net
Backbone Valley Nursery A destination garden center with over 14 acres of plants, vegetables, orchids, trees, and landscape supplies. Once you find us you won’t forget us! 830-693-9348 4201 FM 1980, Marble Falls backbonevalleynursery.com
It’s About Thyme Garden Center Top quality culinary herbs for chefs, and native plants for gardeners. A nursery with expert staff and pocket-friendly prices. Free lectures most Sundays. 512-280-1192 11726 Manchaca Rd. itsaboutthyme.com
Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center The Wildflower Center is a native plant botanic garden, a university research center and one of the 1,000 places to see before you die. 512-232-0100 4801 La Crosse Ave. wildflower.org
The Great Outdoors Nursery A garden store and so much more! 512-448-2992 2730 S. Congress Ave. gonursery.com
Visit Brenham and Washington County, home of the birthplace of Texas, Washington-on-the-Brazos State historic site. scenic drives, wineries and great lodging. 979-836-3696 115 W. Main St., Brenham visitbrenhamtexas.com
Bullock Texas State History Museum The Bullock Texas State History Museum includes three floors of exhibitions, an IMAX® theater, a 4D special-effects theater, café, and museum store. 512-936-8746 1801 N. Congress Ave. thestoryoftexas.com
Deer Lake Lodge and Spa
Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm
Austin Beer Garden Brewing Co.
Cooking classes, beautiful dining room venue for private events, hill country cabin rental. 830-833-0910 5818 RR 165, Dripping Springs juniperhillsfarm.com
Locally-sourced lunch and dinner. Craft brewery, live music, good people, dog friendly, creative community. #beermakesitbetter #ouratx 512-298-2242 1305 W. Oltorf St. theabgb.com
Barlata Tapas Bar
Texas Restaurant Association The advocate, educator and voice of the Texas restaurant industry. 512-457-4100 1400 Lavaca St. restaurantville.com
PHOTOGRAPHY AND ART
Located in the heart of South Lamar. Barlata offers a variety of tapas, paellas, regional Spanish wines and cavas. Come and enjoy a bit of Spain with us. 512 473-2211 1500 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 150 barlataaustin.com
Baxters On Main
The Contemporary Austin The Contemporary Austin reflects the spectrum of contemporary art through exhibitions, commissions, education and the collections. The Contemporary aspires to be an essential part of city life. 512-453-5312 700 Congress Ave. 512-458-8191 3809 W. 35th St. thecontemporaryaustin.org
Casual fine dining restaurant and catering. We welcome private parties. Catering for all of your needs. 512-321-3577 919 Main St., Bastrop baxtersonmain.com
Blue Corn Harvest Bar & Grill Blue Corn Harvest Bar & Grill is a farm-to-table restaurant located in Cedar Park. Locally owned and operated, we keep Cedar Park fresh! 512-528-0889 700 E. Whitestone Blvd., Ste 204, Cedar Park bluecornharvest.com
Austin Label Company Custom Labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil and UV coatings. Proud members of Go Texan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204 1610 Dungan Ln. austinlabel.com
Cafe Josie Established in 1997, Cafe Josie strives to provide our guests with a memorable dining experience focusing on using locally sourced ingredients. 512-322-9226 1200 B W. 6th St. cafejosie.com
REAL ESTATE Chez Nous
Green Mango Real Estate
Deer Lake is an organic spa and resort. We offer a full service spa and salon, juicing classes, yoga, weekend retreats and a respite from every day life. 936-647-1383 10500 Deer Lake Lodge Rd, Montgomery deerlakelodge.com
Boutique firm specializing in Central Austin since 1987, especially the 78704 where we have sold more homes than any other single realtor. 512-923-6648 905 Avondale Rd. greenmangorealestate.com
Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm
Los Poblanos is set amongst 25 acres of lavender fields, an organic farm, and lush gardens, with 20 guest rooms and award-winning field-tofork dining. 505-344-9297 4803 Rio Grande Blvd. NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM lospoblanos.com
416 Bar & Grille
A casual french bistro, serving Austin since 1982, Chez Nous offers a delectable selection of regional french cuisine and wines in a relaxed, convivial and intimate atmosphere. 512-473-2413 510 Neches St. cheznousaustin.com
District Kitchen + Cocktails Americana Cuisine - Full service restaurant serving dinner until midnight seven days a week. Saturday and Sunday brunch starting at 10 a.m. 416 craft cocktails. 512-206-0540 5011 Burnet Rd. #150 416barandgrille.com
District proudly partners with local farms and businesses to create an eclectic seasonal brunch and dinner menu. The industrial-style decor or the huge tree covered patio makes for a great dining atmosphere. 512-351-8436 5900 W. Slaughter Ln., Ste D500 districtaustin.com
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Currently showing on PBS Television Check Your Local Listings or go to ediblefeast.com
East Side Pies
The Leaning Pear Café & Eatery
512-524-0933 1401B Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437 5312 G Airport Blvd. 512-467-8900 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln. eastsidepies.com
Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients. 512-847-7327 111 River Rd., Wimberley leaningpear.com
Thai Fresh offers authentic Thai food, cooking classes, coffee bar, gluten free bakery. We source locally grown and raised ingredients. 512-494-6436 909 W. Mary St. thaifreshaustin.com
At TreeHouse, We specialize in high preference, design, and outdoor solutions and products for the home. 512-861-0712 4477 S. Lamar Blvd. Suite 600 treehouse.co
Finn & Porter Finn & Porter is fresh and modern. Locally sourced and exquisitely presented. The freshest seafood, steaks, sushi and produce the state of Texas has to offer. 512-493-4900 500 E. 4th St. finnandporteraustin.com
Hoover’s Cooking From scratch Texas home cooking. Serving comfort food favorites like CFS, meatloaf and southern-style veggies; vegetarian options. BBQ, Sat. and Sun. breakfast. 512 479-5006 2002 Manor Rd. hooverscooking.com
Hut’s Hamburgers An Austin Tradition since 1939 featuring Grassfed Longhorn Beef and bison burgers. 512-472-0693 807 W. 6th St. hutsfrankandangies.com
Jack Allen’s Kitchen Texan in spirit and local in source, Jack Allen’s Kitchen serves up Texas-inspired cuisine, fresh cocktails, cold beers and good times daily. 512-852-8558 7720 W. Hwy. 71 512-215-0372 2500 Hoppe Tr., Round Rock jackallenskitchen.com
Jobell Cafe & Bistro We offer a carefully selected and prepared take on French bistro fare with wonderful wines all served amidst the intimacy and charm of Texas Hill Country. 512-847-5700 16920 Ranch Road 12, Wimberley jobellcafe.com
Lenoir Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service. 512-215-9778 1807 S. 1st St. lenoirrestaurant.com
North Italia A modern take on the best of traditional Italian cuisine, North is a neighborhood restaurant made for sharing, sipping, and savoring. 512-339-4400 11506 Century Oaks Terrace, Suite 124 northitaliarestaurant.com
Otto’s German Bistro Otto’s offers German-inspired fare in Fredericksburg, Texas. Featuring locally sourced produce and meats. Local beers and wines on tap, handcrafted cocktails. 830-307-3336 316 E. Austin St., Fredericksburg ottosfbg.com
Red Mango - The 704 Red Mango has a variety of nutritious options for the 704 community. Known for all natural frozen yogurt, fresh juice, protein smoothies and more! 512-356-9574 3421 S. Lamar Blvd. facebook.com/redmangoatx
Salt & Time Butcher Shop & Salumeria A full service Butcher Shop and restaurant, 100% locally sourced meat and produce, house made deli meats, charcuterie and salumi. 512-524-1383 1912 E. 7th St. saltandtime.com
Slate Restaurant Mediterranean inspired cuisine serving lunch and dinner and brunch on the weekends. 512-474-2194 612 W. 6th St. slateaustin.com
Urban Mattress ThunderCloud Subs For fresh, fast and healthy, head on over to your neighborhood ThunderCloud Subs, Austin’s original sub shop. Now with 30 locations in Central Texas. 512-479-8805 thundercloud.com
At Urban Mattress North Austin we want you to wake up well. And we know you’re ready to find the best mattress that will help you do just that. 512–354-7579 9901 N. Capital of Texas Hwy, Ste 140 512-298-3043 4001 N. Lamar, Ste 225 urbanmattress.com
The Turtle Restaurant Your destination for food prepared from locally available, seasonal ingredients. 325-646-8200 514 Center Ave., Brownwood theturtlerestaurant.com
Vaudeville & V Supper Club Vaudeville is the foodie Mecca in the Hill Country. You will find under one roof a bistro, wine and gourmet market, a fine dining restaurant and much more! 830-992-3234 230 E. Main, Fredericksburg vaudeville-living.com
Wink Restaurant & Wine Bar The daily menu is based on local artisans. Wink happily embraces omnivores, vegetarians, vegans, pescetarians and special dietary issues. 512-482-8868 1014 N. Lamar Blvd. winkrestaurant.com
SPECIALTY MARKET Buffalo Exchange New & Recycled Fashion. Buy, sell, trade designer wear, basics, vintage, and one-of-a-kind items. You can receive cash or trade for clothing on the spot! 512-480-9922 2904 Guadalupe St. buffaloexchange.com
Make It Sweet Kerbey Lane Cafe
Stella San Jac
Kerbey Lane Cafe is a local Austin haunt serving up tasty, healthy food (mostly) 24/7. Stop by any of our 6 locations for a delicious stack of pancakes! 512-451-1436 kerbeylanecafe.com
Stella San Jac is a Southern-style restaurant offering an eclectic Austin-American menu featuring locally inspired dishes and cocktails. 512-792-5648 310 E. 5th St. stellasanjac.com
At Make It Sweet, you can find tools, supplies and ingredients to make cakes, cookies and candies and learn fun, new techniques in the classes offered. 512-371-3401 9070 Research Blvd. makeitsweet.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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Charles Atlas, Institute for Turbulence Research (from Tornado Warning), 2008. Four-channel synchronized video projection, transparent screen, VMU, sound. Dimensions variable. Running time: 6:00. Installation view, Nobody Gets to See the Wizard. Not Nobody. Not Nohow, Anna Kustera Gallery, New York, 2010. Artwork © Charles Atlas. Courtesy the artist; Luhring Augustine, New York; and Vilma Gold, London. Image courtesy the artist; Luhring Augustine, New York; and Vilma Gold, London. Photograph by Glen Fogel.
ART DE TERROIR
Strange Pilgrims September 27, 2015 – January 24, 2016 Works by fourteen internationally recognized artists across three sites. On view at the Jones Center, the Betty and Edward Marcus Sculpture Park at Laguna Gloria and the Visual Arts Center at The University of Texas.
Jones Center 700 Congress Avenue Austin, TX 78701 512 453 5312
Betty and Edward Marcus Sculpture Park / Laguna Gloria 3809 West 35th Street Austin, TX 78703 • 512 458 8191
Visual Arts Center / The University of Texas 2300 Trinity Street Austin, Texas 78712
Mikaila Ulmer Founder and CEO Bee Sweet Lemonade
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