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.......... Rachel Antonoff / New York City, United States.................................................................................................................................Tavi Gevinson......... ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................8/9.......... Rachel Antonoff is a storyteller. Her clothes look as if they come out of a Sweet Valley High book, an Edward Gorey story or an old-fashioned murder mystery. One collection was presented in a Nancy Drew crime scene and another in a black-and-white-all-over haunted house. *A favourite of mine was in a rickety house full of pillow forts and books, with blanket teepees and a Wendy house. Girls in saddle shoes and rompers wrote ‘No adults allowed!’ on their clubhouse walls and played with a Ouija board on the bed. It was the ultimate slumber party. Another presentation took place in a high-school gym. Girls in adorable looks that took away any negative connotation attached to ‘prom dress’ danced to The Like under balloons and stars. *Antonoff’s collections beg for storybook settings and her

vision is so elaborate that they always bring her designs full circle. Such detailed presentations could easily distract from the clothing, but instead perfectly compliment it. The clothes hold their own. They take the wearer back to a more childlike view in which fashion is about fantasy, makebelieve and taking on a character. *Antonoff pulls this off without looking twee or as if she’s copying vintage looks. Her clothing surprises in its details in a way few designers can manage so subtly. It’s not cheeky or ironic or overly cute, just sweet details like cat-eared pockets or the hearts on a pair of Bass loafers kissing one another at the tip. In this way, Antonoff leaves enough versatility and wearability for the character to make it her own. The result? A perfect balance between make-believe and reality.

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plaid m in autumn i dress / winte r 2010

kels autumn y dress / winte r 2011

as a lauren pantin n magical quee er 2011 autumn / wint

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..........Damir Doma / Paris, France..........................................................................................................................................................A.F. Vandevorst......... ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................10/11 .......... Young Croatian-born designer Damir Doma is well on his way to becoming an established name in the industry, admired for his signature styles for both men and women. In only a few years, he has managed to envision a mature formal language that is recognizably his. Both his women’s and men’s collections consist of architectural, dense silhouettes. While the cut of his work can look quite raw, the overall look and feel of the collections is mostly soft and poetic. Men dressed in fur vests combined with woollen trousers and capes present a primitive yet tender image. *Doma’s collections subtly refer to nomadic tribes and indigenous cultures without ever overtly playing the ‘ethnic’ card. The same goes for his approach to femininity: the women’s silhouettes consist of rather androgynous designs, but when worn together they blend beautifully into an

ultra-feminine shape, especially because of the round capes and voluminous trousers. Damir Doma girls are very feminine and alluring, without the silhouettes ever having to be typically ‘sexy’ – a distinction that we particularly appreciate. He creates hyper-feminine shapes that are not too obvious. The men’s and women’s collections are distinctively different, but it‘s obvious that they are each other’s counterparts, that the men and women wearing them are each other’s partners: they share an overarching logic. *Because of Doma’s tasteful use of muted colours and elegant sense of style, the collections can be worn and combined season to season. There is a timeless signature that keeps them together. For such a young designer, this hints at a remarkable and mature sense of vision.

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for women collection ter 2011 autumn / win

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..........Erdem / London, United Kingdom................................................................................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................12/13..........

backstage, spring / summer 201

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.......... Holly Fulton / London, United Kingdom.........................................................................................................................................Heather Sproat......... ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 14/15.......... Holly Fulton’s larger-than-life textural expression of deco graphics, prints and embellishments has developed in momentum as the seasons have passed. She has added a burgeoning sophistication and subtlety to her signature techniques of enthusiastic modern pattern application and adornment, showing collections of beautifully formed, contemporary crafted garments. *Graduating from the Royal College MA course in 2007 with a decoratively intrepid and experimental collection, Fulton went straight to the Lanvin studio in Paris, where she worked on the jewellery and embroidery for the Spring/Summer 2008 collection. Launching her own line in 2009 at London Fashion Week, she hit her stride and began producing vibrant, energetic collections of courageous, luxurious print and adornment. *In 2009 Fulton was awarded the Swarovski Emerging Talent Award for Accessories at the British Fashion Awards for her intricate, oversized

print for hand and gun skirt, autumn / winter 20 11

pieces, a joyful obsession, a grand gesture of laser-cut Perspex, wood, crystals and hand-enamelled metals. The beautification of each inspiring collar, necklace, earring and cuff is a product of her meticulous drawing and layering process. *Themes that resonate throughout Fulton’s work are a love of monochrome and a penchant for robotics and skyscrapers. Her work shows an eager exploration of deco, architecture, geometry and graphic convention. All of these thoughts are expressed through engineered prints and highly decorative surfaces, textures, applications, cutwork and studs, using a plethora of materials, such as laser-cut perspex and wood, crystals, patent leather and suede. *Holly Fulton was the winner of Young Designer of the Year at the Scottish Fashion Award Spring/Summer 2010, and was awarded the Elle Style Award for New Designer 2010.

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print for the bird eating crystals dress, spring / summer 2011

the bird eating crystals dress, spring / summer 2011

print for scarf designed using fair trade cotton

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..........Thomas Tait /London, United Kingdom........................................................................................................................................................................ ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................16/17..........

backstage, er 2011 spring / summ

sk sprin etches, g / su mmer

2011

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..........Iris Van Herpen / Amsterdam, The Netherlands................................................................................................................................A.F. Vandevorst......... ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................18/19 .......... Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen showed her collection at the Paris Haute Couture week at the tender age of twenty-seven, the youngest guest member of the French Couture Council. Far from being a classical fashion designer, Iris pushes fashion into new territories, creating sculpture-like garments rendered in Polyamide by computer-guided 3D printers, shaping new organic forms with a hi-tech edge. Van Herpen goes where no one has gone before, yet blends her futuristic construction techniques with traditional handwork and old-school craftsmanship. *We first saw her work at the Arnhem Biennale and at Berlin Fashion Week 2011, but we were even more impressed when we saw her pieces on a human body. These sculpted garments need to be brought to life. They are so much better seen on a person, because then one understands the proportions, the way the pieces are

supposed to move and how well they are made. Once you have seen them worn, it is possible to understand how pieces that are currently more like art objects, such as the water dress, could be transformed into a more wearable fashion line. This will only happen when Iris feels like it; if she does it, she will do it on her own terms. *In using 3D printing techniques to build her garments in one piece straight from a computer file, Van Herpen has created a new way of sculpting fashion without the need for stitching. It’s something that we’ve tried in our own collections using riveting techniques. Her style is very different from ours, but we admire the precision of her work and how everything she engages in is in constant evolution. She is relentless and unafraid. She knows what she stands for. That’s the quality we admire most in a designer.

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micro collection 2012

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.......... Xander Zhou / Beijing, China......................................................................................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................20/21..........

base camp collection spring / summer 2011

ection e coll mirag ummer 2010 /s spring

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.......... Selected pages from PATTERN.......................................................................................................................................................................................... ..................Huishan Zhang /London, United Kingdom..................................................................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................233/233....................

..................Dion Lee / Sydney, Australia.......................................................................................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................223/223....................

s lace dres couture embroidered with hand couture dragon, 2011 lookbook

dress couture m made with custo couture sequins, 2011 lookbook

facade collect spring/summer ion, 2011

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dion lee / sydney, australia

huishan zhang / london, united kingdom

..................Noretaka Tatehana /X......................................................................................................................................................................................... X......... ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................229/229.................... Uscia id moluptibea nonectem ressunt faceribus as ipsanis conectisquam rem fugit esti deniatiantum is aut eosapero esti andam enihillum, tes exerspe lendebit quam acerempe enimenisinim cuptaer sperum hil essi nonet exerore eius a comnihitat et quat etur, et illupta tiberum experferum conet volupta tiassitias re ea dolum qui re numque exeresequi ut omnis maio blaborempor moluptate is molore escimus, sinum volo omnimpore int int et venti dolupicide venihil mi, voluptium que ra niscient. Cestemquos quo maximenia dunt quiaes remporr ovitae nonseres id quatus iditiiscim non parum as aliquat estius, que minveni magnima gniatque occae non et alist aut ommo commodignam, oditia qui si cusdaecea que sed essectur, oditibusdae sum qui blab ipit, aut liqui commosa nimus. Olupis et volloraecae magnis aut ut remquatemqui dolupitam quidebisqui qui isquo dios eum aut maxim volut faccull iquatur autatem ata doluptas

assemblance collection, spring/summer 2010

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.................. Ohne Titel / X..................................................................................................................................................................................................X......... ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................231/231 ....................

cum voluptat experuptaqui alicid excea nonsed ea vel in nobis aut am ius et quaturitenda il endenis re restia ipsum ipsum et volupta nos et eatem aut voluptis rerit entio. Et dolorer spient, cus dolores aspeliberum alibusam sam, invel incidicidion renihil idusam fuga. In coremquossit a vendeliqui quodit, cusam is intoria velis antiis del maio. Nam utescia sectat audae sequosam fuga. Nem. Arumque nullit, sapitio temposs erumque ne si bearum con expero officime peratia doluptur, con necae voluptatia sin nisimag nimilla borrum ium et odis earumquo officiis quunt. Ibus maiorererio blacea non coruptas dolestis et alicips andandi cullit, opti beribusam facepel iquibus aut aut volescipsa sum dolorio nseque corepudam venduciae core ea consectorum utemporum et perferi ossimus ut is magnam, tor as molore occullo repeliquam, verum voleserro venimus. Et quunto minveles aut dolores derum suscit et ut alique porrum, ne

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custom shoes

custom shoes

autum collec n winter tion 2012

backstage/

autumn winter collection 2012

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ohne titel / new york, united states

noritaka tatehana / tokyo, japan

..................Patrick Grant / London, United Kingdom ....................................................................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................219/219.................... ..................Christopher Shannon / London, United Kingdom............................................................................................................................................................ ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................227/227....................

aw 2010 autumn backstage/ winter 2009

christopher shannon x eastpa k ss2011

sketches in the studio, spring/summer 2012 backstage/ autum winter 2012 n

fox jumper, autumn/ winter 2009

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patrick grant / london, united kingdom

christopher shannon / london, united kingdom

.................. ..................Qin Hao /?????????........................................................................................................................................................................................................ ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................221/221....................

f/w 2011

s/s 2012

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qiu hau / shanghai, china

heaven tanudiredja / antwerp, belgium

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Pattern