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'Ploce of dry woter' Rizel Delano visits Africa's largest game reserve, Etosha National Park, and revels

in its unmistakable wildlife and beauty.


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he small herd follows the tall buit

elephantintothe sha owwateE, one of the offsprinq nudqinq on the inside ofa matriarch's le9 before splashing into it. The short broken, tiptusks areevidence of the h ner.l deficiency in the reg on, buttheyserve wellenough here ir the l!sh bushes sutro!ndin9 the pan. A nurdy cow dlps her ftunk into the water, slurps and then curves ii nto her mouth, spurting the liquid deep down herrhroatwhile fanning away ihe heat waves f rom her ba.k with her big noppy ears. Then ihe bull trumpets across the pans, alarminq hundreds of animals that are quenching



Park is a combinar on of nedesert akeGa rpai) rthenofthand

Etosha Nat

dente brush qra$land and open pl.in5

the 50!rh Tre p.rk 5 in the (!:.-c ol r.rtr w€ne'n N.n b a shar nll boundaiiei fr' rh tre Onrana, osh koto. rd _'.! rate | :00 k !ncf,er norh

relr on

oi\ai bi!.aFt..iri.r..lh..k t I ro)e i. ll: nanrla !p:. E5 l.ra b ( spe. ei I t0

Theorig na Etoshavra5 pro. aimed a ganre relerve by Fr edr.h Von L nd.q! n lcerma r


r€pt c ipe. cs i6.mph r an rpE.iesand,

Gole'no oftrethef Gernan Sortr V/en Afr.:r n l907a.d wasthcn th€ argesion earlh t.o.s sted ofthe Etosha pan and most oi (aokoiand,.ove ing an area ofnear y tOO 000 sq!are kilometres ln t9,t7rhe park\ras then f!rthcr red!.ed aitei the i o.arion of Kaokoland to drc Herero people Ac.ording

to recommend.t ons of rhe Oden..a Comni*ion in 1962 rhe p.r[! arca was redu.ed even frrirer by77 per.eni but s st I avery mprc$ ! oud 2lCookmr. TodayElosha Nntona Fark s tre se.ond arge( of Namiria5 qame rererle5 Giler Namlb NalkuftNaIona Pa ,Afrcas argen aid thevror d!rourth arge(.ature reserve),


ng, o.e

spec es


Legend has ii that m.ny moons a9o a Kho san v Iaqe !va5 ra ded a.d a l b!fihe women were s arghtered. One woman .o! d.1..pc wth dre death of her f.n y

ard mo!nr.! thEnr !rtilhe ter6f.rned a mas ve ake.!,iher dre a[. !r ed I p roih .q vas leftaparr froir a hlge depr.s on ofjalt and duny c a! pan A.d th s 5 ho,x Eto5ha, dre'p ac€ ofdry watefor'qreat wh te p:.e Dom nared bv this ma$lvF i nr derert of 5000kmr, en.ompass ng area

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llokm n enqtlrand5okmar rrtr'idest

ofthe pa k, the pan is parr of the (alahar ba5in and or ginated over r2 mi on yea6 ago, beq.n nq ns a n the eastenr se.tor

ake fed by the Kunene River.The coutse r ver was altered a.d s!bseq!ent


imaticandtectonic changes have lowered the water evelsolhatthe panonly holds c

5alt, du5t,1horns, and heat may make seem ke a forbiddinq p ace to h!man intruder, but mamma and b rd specie! ca lit home by the hundreds. For the greater part of the year rhe pan s a Etosha

b eak expanse ofwhitecGcked mud, salt

",.(11tlr :oo,: ur /lt

ln the dry season, winds blow across the saltpan, pkk ng !psa ine dun and carying itacrossthecountry, o!tovertothe southern At anticOcean.This saltenrichment provides min€ra s to the soil downwind ofthe par on which 5ome wildlife depend, thouqh the nity aho oeates challenges for farme6. Elosha plays hon to tens of tho!sands of a nte ope with the dainty spring bok being the argest qroup ofat east 20 000that roam the reserve.Ther there are gemsbok,


uror'lcl truncty'

h, rrtott/tlt l

t/tt.riqlt ,'/.slu., ll t/u:/,'' aoiy' - (tttctvtatt lmtlo',!)'. htt!//cirn it /,.\'/6-tolur lc/)';r rrcllcrl ro rlc /ottt/ tlat ,ro,,1r1 1r,r,,,,, . \itrilh)r <'ln.ylo. \irthno/ Qorl.. tr.,nty'rttL to



and dusty clay, shimmerlng with mirages. Wil.ess.9 herds of gamewiththis uncanny 9rcatwh te pla.eof drywate/asa backdrop offsel beh nd the s zzlinq heatwavesis what makes rhe Etosha exper ence so unique. The



mlneE residuestogether

wlih molsture from perein



attract a great number ofgame and birds from mld-March .to November just before the wet season starts again, announ.lng the aft valofsummeL ltl5then thallhe lake is transformed into a lush parad se where thousand! of fl am igos and pe icans make Ye ow b led Nornb I s are common and

other specles dott n9 the sk es are the European Bee e.terwaders,vu tures, hawks,

eag es and guinea that Etosha


fow. Eutwhat! more

dre only place ln the



where EgyptianVu tures are seen reg! ary. Onriches share the s!noLnding 9ra$lands withthehuge Ko Bustard, which, weiqh nq over I2k9 and liv n9 mosty on the 9ro!.d, 5e dorn 5!mmons the strenqth to propel its enormous ma$ lntofl 9ht. 5avannah grass and, Came thorn trees,

anclentAnaandMopanewoodlands!(ou.d the pan,The variety ofacacia here has razor sharp spike5 hence their .ame umbre la thorn treetand, toqether wlth the curio!s shapes ofthe lrees thal p erce into the sky, create^4oringa a paranorma scene known asThe Na!.ted Forest. The andscape here s mainyfatwith hlly sections, remnants ofthe UcrabTemces, which over time have evo ved with the processoferosion.

* lexp$e

!eWi debeert k!du and eventhe€ndem cB a.k-Fa.ed lmpaLa Etosha , sald to haveiheta est eepha.ts Red l-lartebeeri, B

in Afr ca, meas!ring up to four metres

sho! derThe park is


wellrecognised as be n9 oie ofthe last w d saiciuaries ofthe endangered B ack Rhlno Game n!mbeB are increar.g (ith a readt more rhan 2000 elephaniover300 BlackandWhiie Rh no, and ots

a so

of ion, eopard,cheetah,2ebraard giraffe. pan itsef is str.tly off'llmits, but a


network ofgravelroads runs aloig its edge, inking the campsites and s!bsid ary roads eadinq to varous waterholeswhere game \iewi.g is beet. Namibia Wildllfe Resotts /Nt?Rl s located withln the Etosha Naronal

Pa, r!nning four.anpsrOrarluelo,


Namurortand th€ atesrediro. the OrkoJhr Cddp.The three o der camp5 vent major renovations in 2007 and nowprovide

NWF3c enlelew thawiderrangeof cornforl Despite the massive s ze ofEtosha, only the sourher. edgeofthepa. ! a.cesib e to casua v s tor w th the on y choice of a.commodation be .g the four camps. A I ofthem offersuperbvistas ofthe Etoslra Pan with shimmer n9 mirage! d!ri.9 the hol daysi dramatic sunset and sunrise textures

and.olouts;a sense of !o at on and space; cearnightskies;andthesights,sme sand sounds of u.adu teraied Africa.

The game vlewing in Etosha Nationa Park

s excellent,

rhe deal time be ng ffom

5eprember the .oo er mon1h5 l. Namlbia Vis tors can eirher 5it qu erly at a sing e spot for houtr watch n9 animals come and 9o, or move from one place to anolher in hopes offindinq more. For those wanting a 9u ded experien.e the options are either to fLy in from Windhoek by plane or embark on a fly oversafariand/or stay at oneofthe pr vate odqes . and around the park, wh ch off-"r daily gam€drives.loinaschedu ed qu ded salari or .!stomlse yo!r or!n Pr vate ex.urs on throuqh the park. However, un ike safari companles, yo! w I not be a oer€d ro enter the western part of the parkwh ch is c osed to privale v sitoE. May to

etclurive night drivet Nanibia Wildlife Resatts s now offering, forth€firsttlme in the 100 year history NWR

of thepark,guldednighldrvesfrornlhe four camps in Etosha, providing v sito6

with an opportunlty to exPerience an entire y different side of Elosha s wildlife treas!res. Al qr ded dri'/es are .ond!.ted n spe.ial Y sodif ed la.d Rove15, using !tp€rlen.E. !Lid:s h. \! h. p !c! Io n:..r:':.: _..:!I^a

Etotongrive Lodge


Okduirr€r. the o desr



pro!ld.Fs ex.eptiona wiidIfe viewinq.The nanre is derived from the sound of the

n the park,

wasopef ed n O.:ober t957and.0 enty fun.t ois as the adm n strr ve h!b of the park. Home to the Erorhr E.o/ogi.a/ /nJrirur€, r rias estab ished ar1h€ e.d of Ian.e.r!ryn5 a.ontro/ pon to.ombat rhe ,pread of foot and houth disease of .att e, lega hunt ng andgu. trad ng Ot !k!e/o

situated at the far easrern 5ide, Nrrl!ronl FeJt Cdnp houses an o d German fort datlng back to '1903, over ooking the

enftance of the park, and is famors for its flood it waterhole, where v s tor .ai observe w ldiife ciose up. Anima s atrive

developed into a h!b ofactivity, offerinq two restaurants, a relaxat on o!nqe, a bar, crafts boutique, curio shop, jewe eE

traditional6erma. h!nt.9 horn announce tlre end

is lo.ared I7km from ttre so!1hern


in iarge numbers at dawn io q!en.h

rribe ihe garr so. oi seven cerman

so dierj defended the forr s!ccessfulty

ior tlre

day and retreated ater 'rhole during rhen ght B!trhevery nextday r f/as comp etely denroyed by ovahbos. After a. Herero uprising, the Namutoni fort was rebu lt and laler u5ed as a po i.e post wh chhasfalen nror! nsovertime. Restorat on works began towa,ds the


!d€ a er:.!Eit ler sloF i ,r mr. nq poo, k o5k a.d ca:rp.g rac it €s

y o.ated ha fway between okaukuejo a.d Namuton and midway to the wenern bo.der of Etasha, Hatati s slrategica

end ofthe l93Os !he i of! cf ihe toie6 was d!stroleo b! iqlrr..g nlgjath.

dotom te hiltamonq shady lvlopane trees. A flood. r waterho e, v ewed from an e evated vanraqe point,

: .:i- aj-. : ..:: ..:-:. :: ...::. ih i

n september brand n.f.

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se!€? c:..a.s.ic 5 ii on a,rooden de.k .on'p.:e . ih :h:t.hed roofs, insulated

.a.rar ,ra s and la19e. wooden

framed reractab e doo6 o. a. isolated pen nsula ovei ook n9lhe Etosha Pan.Ortoihiwas designed as a ow impact, env ronmentatty fr endlyestab ishmentand uses ma n y50 ar power with generator ba.kup. With on y l5 units, itoffe6a personaland ex. !sive experience.The secuded pos tlon ofthe camp h entire y o!1of view ofrhe cdrent tourist routesand therefore offe15 a pristine, tranq! andserene haven


.:: i!:I.sha Thi5 s the mo5i.;i. r:... oi:he three oiqava lodges and on. oj

ih. most exclusive odges n Nam bia A.tiv t es in. ude game driv€s in apen

4x4 vehlcles inro ihe Okauk!ejo area of Etosha Natio.a Park, day and niqht dr ves, h des atwaterho es and wa ks with armed

Angova Tented Canp is a snal dassi. trad t onal tented canp. Guests i eep ln c assic East Afr can sty e tenls ca led 'lvlerul Each has doub e dooE to allow !ninterrupted v ews of the bush and wale.hole n front of the camp from a covered veranda The lenrs have been ta5tefully furn shed, ea.h with it5 own en su te tharched bathrooh with flush roiet

!n q!e open air private shower The barand dininq area s bu ltfrom rock and

Fr.i .:j c.. :,!C


.. b ax Fcr


::.or_ nodat

ofE:oiha a.a.L


on opl ons outside safari

TheCardboard Box Tra!: 5hoj



Ema rinfo@nam

PO Box r 8:0, 447 Fifth Avenue, Ts!

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thatchandhasan ntimarefeetwthdrinks a.d d nner enjoyed around the bom. (yle fireplace and swimminq poo, both


with n theOngdvdGdmeReierye, a pr vate 30 000 hectare qame reserve ocated

overlook ng a floodlitwaterhole sit!ated ar eye leve in ffont of the camp. r.

Private Bag r3244,./o

more nformaton aboltNam ba:

Pr vate Eag r

from which to base activiries when

Te :26461256446




dlife Fesofts Ltd

ll78,r/V ndhoek, Namibia


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E.v ronment &Tou.ism,Windhoek,

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c estofa h lwirh wonderf!lviews onto rhe pia ns be ow and s rhe idea p a.e

m eb,

Fa\ -264 (a)67 220a32

around Etosha the Litre Ongdvd s we worth vlsiting.litt/e Orqdv, s s tuated

adjacent to the southern bound:ry of Erosha. lirtle Ongdvd is bu t a ong the


Phoner+264{0J61 256580 Fax:+264 (0)6r 256581



a i\tei ooa

d iferesortscom


Non residentvisitors to Etosha Ofa lthe many private odges and hote

forl has been

Nehale warerhote.The

and a bookstore. The lirt fort lt 9O2,Oj), erected as a border posi, r!as aita.ted n r904 by 500 peop e from rhe Ovambo

the r ihltsr ln the early even nqs, t is not u.comrnc. ro s.e B ack Fh .o, e ephanr a.d oi a dr .k n9 ar the 5ame rjne Ac.omnrcdai on s n orenr er b!sh.h: ers over ooling rhe r'.t.rh. e O:he,fac I es



used ro

ofthe hufr


lA161 284 236617

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