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FLAVORS of Fall + AC’s Steakhouse • Pub + Five O’clock on Deer Creek + Lou’s Full Serv + The Twisted Burger Company + The Blind Tiger

Day in the





Roasted Brussels Sprouts page 31

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Sometimes we take for granted the numerous and outstanding dining establishments that exist in the Greater Jackson area. The high quality and variety of food, along with outstanding service these businesses offer truly helps sell our community to visitors and businesses looking for something special. Thanks for being a great asset to our community! • 601.948.7575

115 Livingston Church Rd. | Flora, MS 39071 | 601-906-6864

LUNCH AND DINNER HOURS: Mon: Closed | Tues: 3:30 - 11:00 PM | Wed - Sat: 11:00 - 11:00 PM | Sun: 11:00 - 3:30 PM 4 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015




41 22

“The king and high priest of all the festivals was the autumn Thanksgiving. When the apples were all gathered and the cider was all made, and the yellow pumpkins were rolled in from many a hill in billows of gold, and the corn was husked, and the labors of the season were done, and the warm, late days of Indian Summer came in, dreamy, and calm, and still, with just enough frost to crisp the ground of a morning, but with warm traces of benignant, sunny hours at noon, there came over the community a sort of genial repose of spirit - a sense of something accomplished.” • Harriet Beecher Stowe • eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 5

904 B E. Fortification St. Jackson, MS 39202 601.487.6359 6 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015


13 WHAT'S HOT Taste of Fall


Taylor Bowen Ricketts Shares Her Sunshine in a Jar


Ocean Springs Engineer by Day Wows Friends with Delicious Dishes

26 MISSISSIPPI MADE Sugaree’s Bakery


HOMESTEAD Mark and Alison Buehler Teach People How to Do More than Make a Living



The Crown of Southern Cooking: Recipes from the Birthplace of the Blues Evelyn Roughton

Mississippi Community Cookbook Project



AC’s Steakhouse & Pub in Hernando


Five O’clock on Deer Creek in Scott




Transform Leftover Thanksgiving Turkey into Fabulous Fare

46 FROM MISSISSIPPI TO BEYOND Dee Downer Serves Southern Cooking from the Heart




Mississippi Foodie Shawn Rossi


The Twisted Burger Company in West Point

IN EVERY ISSUE 8 From the Publisher 10 From Our Readers 14 Fabulous Foodie Finds 24 Deep South Dish 78 Events 80 Recipe/Ad Index 81 Coming to Terms 82 Till We Eat Again

Lou’s Full-Serv in Jackson


The Blind Tiger in Bay St. Louis


Day in the Country in Madison

ON THE COVER: Brussels sprouts make a fantastic side dish for fall gatherings. See page 30. Food styling by Wendi O’Neill. Photography by Christina Foto. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 7

{ from the publisher }


oo hoo! We survived another Mississippi summer. With that comes great rewards ― football, fall, and Thanksgiving. And none of those could exist without great food. The biggest event of fall is, without a doubt, Thanksgiving. If your family is like mine, there will be an abundance of traditional Thanksgiving fare. We always have leftovers for days. I would dare to say that the food most commonly eaten on Black Friday is a turkey sandwich. Well, that’s about to change. There’s no need to eat another boring sandwich thanks to Lorie Roach’s “Turkey Transformation” on page 40. She even transforms leftover mashed potatoes into a dish that’s even more delicious than the original. As an avid cook, I love cookbooks. I sometimes read them like a novel. Some of the best ones were written long before my journey on Earth began. It is imperative to preserve these culinary treasures for generations to come. They allow us to peek into the past to get a glimpse of how our culinary heritage began and has grown. Andrew P. Haley, coordinator of The Mississippi Cookbook Project, is working diligently to archive these pieces of our history. Read more about his work on page 50.

My husband and executive editor, John, and I enjoyed scooping ice cream recently at the Jackson Zoo. The zoo is a huge asset to Jackson and the state of Mississippi. If you haven’t been lately, we urge you to enjoy the fall weather and stroll through the zoo.

One of my favorite recipes for fall comes from a community cookbook named Rebel Recipes. As soon as the first cool snap hits, I get a huge craving for this apple cake with caramel glaze. It hits the spot every time and is always a hit when I make it for our tailgate party at Ole Miss. You don’t have to be an Ole Miss fan to enjoy it, so go ahead and bake one to kick off the fall season. Now cut the cake and let's eat!

the hungry and help those in trouble. Then your light will shine out from the darkness, q "Feed r and the darkness around you will be as bright as the day." Isaiah 58:10 EAT DRINK MISSISSIPPI is published bi-monthly by Carney Publications LLC, PO Box 1051, Monticello, MS 39654-1051. Periodicals postage pending at Monticello, MS, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to EAT DRINK MISSISSIPPI, PO Box 1051, Monticello, MS 39654.


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SEPT 19, 2015 - JAN 3, 2016 • 601.981.5469 2145 Museum Boulevard Jackson, MS 39202 This project is partially funded by the Jackson Convention and Visitors Bureau. Hello From Japan is part of the Freeman Foundation Asian Culture Exhibit Series, funded by The Freeman Foundation and administered by Association of Children’s Museums.

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Kitchen Tools





rch 2015


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+ Bishop’s BBQ + Yazoo Pass + J. Broussard's + Miss D’s Diner + Deli Diner

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+ Hen ri's + Coff ee Pot + The Sicilian Cafe II

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April/May 2015



+ Ravi ne + 1933

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PeaSSuOcmDh A-LIGH TF page 34

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DINNER m Italian Grill Bakery & Tearoo + Vicari Downtown + Rose’s s Bistro Eatery + Sway’ boli’s Italian + Strom Cafe + Cast Iron


Recipes st FeaION Fire & PETIT




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{ from our readers } Thanks for another great year of your fantastic magazine. My sister says this is one of the best gifts I have ever given her.

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DROP US A LINE! Thank you for your interest in this magazine. We would love to hear from you. Please understand that letters submitted become the property of eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI and may be edited for length and clarity. E-mail us at info@, leave a comment on our Facebook page, or write to P.O. Box 1051, Monticello, MS 39654.

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Want to see what and where we’ve been eating lately? Follow us on Instagram to see some of the tasty bites we’ve discovered!

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JULIAN BRUNT is a food and culture writer from the Gulf Coast whose roots run more than three hundred years deep in Southern soil. He is deeply concerned with culinary and cultural traditions and thinks no man worth his salt that cannot hold forth in tall tale and willingly endure the heat of the kitchen.

LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM is a freelance writer from Grenada. Her work has appeared in several publications in Mississippi. She is a graduate of Delta State University where she received a BA in Marketing and her MBA. In her free time, she enjoys food writing and photography. She currently resides in Brandon. Photo by Alisa Chapman Photography

COOP COOPER is a journalist, film critic and filmmaker based in Clarksdale. He graduated from Southern Methodist University with a B.F.A. in Cinema, and received his Masters in Screenwriting from the American Film Institute in Hollywood. You can read his past filmrelated articles at www.

SUSAN MARQUEZ lives and writes in Madison. She has a degree in RadioTV-Film from the University of Southern Mississippi and had a long career in advertising and marketing before stumbling into a freelance writing career in 2001. Hundreds of published articles later, Marquez still loves to tell the stories of the interesting people, places, and events throughout the South.

LORIE ROACH lives in Buckatunna with her husband. She is a food blogger and owns her own photography business. She is also an avid cooking contest participant and has traveled the country to compete. In 2008, she competed on Food Network’s Ultimate Recipes Showdown: Cakes, where she won first place in the cupcake segment of the show.

ANNE MARTIN is a freelance writer, columnist and journalist. She has spent the better part of the past 28 years covering the Mississippi Delta as a broadcast journalist. Her passion is writing about anything related to Mississippi and the South. Her work has appeared in several local and regional magazines. She is a graduate of Mississippi Delta Junior College and attended the University of Southern Mississippi. She lives on a farm in Rosedale.

GENNIE TAYLOR, a Forest native, is the publications coordinator at East Central Community College in Decatur and a freelance writer, photographer, and graphic designer. She is the former editor of The Demopolis Times, a five-day daily newspaper in Demopolis, Ala., and managing editor of The Scott County Times, a weekly newspaper in her hometown. A graduate of the University of Southern Mississippi with a Bachelor’s Degree in Journalism, she has received numerous awards from the Associated Press and the Mississippi and Alabama Press Associations. She is married to Steven Taylor and they have a daughter, Mallory Grace. In her free time, she enjoys traveling, reading, and cooking.

KATHY K. MARTIN is an Ole Miss journalism graduate who currently lives in Collierville, Tennessee with her husband and two children. She works as a freelance writer and chairs her church’s Christian writers group.


KELSEY WELLS is a news writer at Lawrence County Press in Monticello. She is a graduate of Southwest Mississippi Community College where she served as editor of The Pine Burr. She earned her Bachelor’s degree in Communications at William Carey University and served as a staff writer and life editor of The Cobbler student newspaper until she became managing editor her senior year. She currently resides in the Divide community where she is active in her church and community.

KATIE HUTSON WEST is a freelance writer from Tupelo. She is a graduate of Mississippi State University where she earned a B.S. degree in Marketing, Communications, and Business Psychology. An avid traveler, when home she resides in Starkville.

{ what's hot }


TASTE of Fall

hen the crisp air and festive colors of fall arrive, it’s time to enjoy the best the season has to offer. From catching a hayride to diving into a pile of crunchy leaves, there are plenty of family activities that can build up a healthy appetite. Some of the tastiest dishes to serve the family

at the end of a perfect day feature the warmth and comfort of fall flavors. Few ingredients say fall like apples, and apple butter is an ideal ingredient for incorporating the rich, traditional flavor of apples and cinnamon into your favorite foods. edm

Spiced Apple Cake with Orange Glaze 2 cups flour 1 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves 3/4 cup sugar 1/2 cup softened butter 2 eggs 1/2 cup buttermilk 1 cup Musselman’s Apple Butter 1 cup powdered sugar 2 tablespoons orange juice 1 teaspoon orange peel

Heat oven to 350°F. In medium bowl, sift together flour, baking soda, salt, nutmeg, cinnamon, and cloves. In large bowl, cream sugar and softened butter, then add eggs and beat thoroughly. Add dry ingredients alternately with buttermilk. Stir in apple butter. Pour into a greased 9-by-5-by-3-inch loaf pan. Bake 55-65 minutes or until cake tests done. Cool 10 minutes before removing from pan. Make orange glaze by combining powdered sugar, orange juice, and orange peel. Spoon glaze over warm cake. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 13

{ fabulous foodie finds }

It’s Turkey Time! Maple Turkey Carving Board, $29.99 Bed, Bath and Beyond

Turkey Timer (legs pop up when the turkey is done), $17.00 Kikkerland

Urban Accents Gourmet Gobbler Complete Turkey Brine and Rub Kit, $13.95 The Kitchen Table, Hattiesburg 14 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015

Preparing the Thanksgiving turkey can be a monumental task. We've gathered several great tools to help make the job easier. Plus, we've found some serving pieces that will serve your holiday bird with style.

OXO Angled Bulb Baster, $12.95 Williams-Sonoma

Turkey Platter, $29.95 Pier 1 Imports

Turkey Meat Fork and Gravy Ladle Set by The Loose Goose, $48.00 Etsy CalphalonÂŽ Tri-Ply Stainless Steel 14-in. Roaster, $99.99 Belk

see page 80 for store information eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 15

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mber 2015


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On desktop computer, visit and search for Eat Drink Mississippi or visit for a direct link.

Getting a taste of Mississippi has never been easier! 16 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015

The Trick to Delicious Halloween-Inspired Treats W

Freaky French Toast 1 cup TruMoo Orange Scream milk 3 large eggs 2 teaspoons grated orange peel 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 loaf challah bread 3 tablespoons butter, divided Confectioners' sugar Warm maple syrup (optional)

hen fall weather hits, every ghoul, ghost, and goblin knows that Halloween is lurking around the corner. To get the whole family in the spirit this season, pick the perfect pumpkin, dress up in the scariest costumes, and serve up these frightfully delicious treats. Freaky French Toast and Candy Corn Pudding are two kid-friendly dishes that are almost too spooky to eat. The secret ingredient is Limited Edition TruMoo Orange Scream milk, which is inspired by an orange frozen pop with vanilla ice cream. These treats will surely cast a spell on all those who taste them. edm

In large bowl, combine milk, eggs, grated orange peel, and cinnamon to blend well. Slice challah bread into 1-inch-thick slices. In 12-inch skillet over medium heat, melt 1tablespoon butter. Dip bread into milk mixture, letting each side soak for 30 seconds. Add butter to skillet. Over medium heat, cook bread until golden, about 4 minutes on each side. Repeat with remaining butter and bread. Dust with confectioners' sugar. Serve with warm maple syrup. Servings: 4-6

Candy Corn Pudding 2 cups TruMoo Orange Scream milk 1 box (3.56-ounces) instant white chocolate pudding Red and yellow food coloring 1/2 cup whipped cream In large bowl, beat milk and instant pudding with wire whisk or mixer until thickened. Spoon 1/2 of mixture into bowl. Tint with food coloring to dark orange shade. To serve, spoon 1/2 of original color pudding (light orange) into 2 tall dessert glasses. Layer with dark orange pudding. Top each with whipped cream. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Servings: 2 eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 17

{ chef's corner }


Sunshine in a Jar

by taylor bowen ricketts | photography by edward blackstone iii

he seasons in nature are always a source of inspiration Delta edge to my kimchi, I like to make Collard Green Cabbage for me. Autumns in Mississippi are counterbalanced Kimchi. Collard greens have a naturally complex flavor that by my travels to Maine and California over the years. lends well to pickling. In some traditions, kimchi is buried As an artist, their robust fall vistas are always in my mind’s in the ground to ferment. I don’t bury my kimchi. Instead, I eye. I see the same colors in the bounty of Mississippi farm like to weave it into recipes in unexpected ways. Two of my produce each favorites are fall. I aspire adding it to a to grow, duck stir fry process, and Hoppin’ preserve John. everything, Pickled but usually vegetables with running can save you a family and a visit to a restaurant, I the doctor’s am limited to office. my favorites: Growing pickles, up in onions, Jackson, my kimchi, conservative chow-chow, mother green tomato befriended salsa, and the hippies peppers. Of across the my talents street and as a chef with a lasting and artist, friendship canning came the and pickling medicinal is one. I lessons of have always pickling. known how We hoard to pickle. our pickles, If you have peppers, been able chow-chow, Taylor Bowen Ricketts to visit and kimchi. one of my We use it at restaurants over the years, you might have enjoyed the punchy home and experiment with their unlimited potential. If we pickles on my bourbon chicken sliders or kimchi in a Hoppin’ have offered you some, it is out of love. It is a gift greater than John. gold. edm Pickles can be divisive within the culinary community; of course, there are the purists and the artisans. I choose not to pick sides for this side, but to maintain the proliferation of the Chef Taylor Bowen Ricketts is a chef, artist, mother, and business woman based culinary understanding of pickles. Pickling is always fun for in Greenwood. Always up for the next culinary adventure, Chef Taylor pours her me. Stranger things have been called fun in the Delta, but there soul into creating new dishes that are beautiful as well as delicious. is something joyous in the transformation of colors in these Her culinary education began in the kitchen of her grandparents’ Hammond, veggies and the vibrancy of their colors. It is like jarring the Louisiana home with a baptism in classic Cajun and Creole recipes. This experience at a young age inspired Taylor’s lifelong love of food and cooking and continues to last burst of summer for a rainy day. My favorite is the art of permeate her cuisine today. kimchi. I learned how to make kimchi from Asian chefs at the Since 2008, Taylor has been chef/proprietor of Delta Bistro in Greenwood, Worlds of Flavor conference in California. We swapped secrets which has become one of the most acclaimed restaurants in the region and a true and recipes, and shared a passion for embracing the local culinary destination. Taylor was a 2011 James Beard Awards “Best Chef - South” bounty. The Asian chefs were happy to meet a kindred spirit nominee and has been credited with being instrumental in creating the unique and that believed in the beauty of simplicity in local foods and distinctive “Delta Cuisine” for which she has become so well known. to “feel” the season. Running a productive kitchen with local Delta Bistropub curates Taylor’s travel, culinary, art, and life experiences into ingredients is one of my core beliefs and I feel the seasons to an updated take on Delta Cuisine. Long-time fans will be thrilled with the modern my toes. classics, while foodies will enjoy epicurean delights from Taylor’s global travels. Kimchi is traditionally made with Napa Cabbage. Adding a 18 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015

Collard Kimchi By Chef Taylor Bowen Ricketts

2 bunches collard greens, washed, cleaned and cut 1 head green cabbage 1/4 cup salt Toss. Rest and let water drain from vegetables for at least 24 hours. Slurry of: 1/4 cup fish sauce 2 cups fresh pureed ginger 1 cup smoked paprika 3 tablespoons red chili pepper flakes 1 cup sliced green onions 1-1/4 cup soy sauce 3 shredded carrots 3 tablespoons oyster sauce 2 tablespoons dried shrimp 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar

Copyright Chef Taylor Bowen Ricketts. Printed with permission by Eat. Drink. Mississippi.

After greens have drained, add slurry and mix thoroughly and store in jars for at least two weeks and up to two months, depending on taste. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 19

{ kitchen to kitchen }

Adam Brune puts the finishing touch on his Pulled Pork Tacos.


Ocean Springs Engineer by Day Wows Friends with Delicious Dishes


story and photography by julian brunt

dam Brune is as accomplished a home cook as you will find. The chefs he looks up to are a testament to his sophistication in the kitchen, and include James Beard award winner Marc Verti, super chef Anthony Bourdain, and internationally acclaimed Thomas Keller, owner of the French Laundry. This is an august bunch, and if anyone aspires to their accomplishments, they will have a long row to hoe. But Brune is undeterred. Brune has always been interested in cooking, but going away to college seems to have been a major turning point. “For the first time I had to feed myself,” says Brune, and he took up the challenge smartly. Later he went to work for Po-Boy Express as a grill cook, then moved on to Broome’s Grocery Store in his hometown of Ocean Springs. There he boiled their famed crawfish, ran the smokehouse, and got involved in catering. It was the catering that provided the most interesting exposure to a professional kitchen. He learned everything from roasting a steamship round to cooking a whole hog. Most home cooks in this part of the world describe their cooking style as Southerninspired, but Brune is further along that road than most. Certainly he acknowledges the food and recipes that the South embraces, but he is also excited about the other cultural influences he sees affecting South Mississippi. The food Brune prepared for this interview is a great example. He took the Asian influences found in

the Vietnamese community in Biloxi’s old Point Cadet, and the Hispanic goodness you can now find in the growing number of Hispanic grocery stores, and restaurants, and put them to good use in killer baked chicken and pulled pork tacos. For those of you who are envisioning a great young cook who will one day translate his skills into a professional kitchen, you will be disappointed. Brune is insistent that he will always remain a home cook. Cooking for his friends and occasionally helping out with a wedding or other social event is as far as this great cook is going to take it. Brune is a lifelong resident of Ocean Springs. He earned a degree in engineering from the University of Southern Mississippi in Hattiesburg, and has worked for a local engineering firm for eight years. His work concerns design reviews for FEMA projects. He is a sportsman, loves the islands just to the south of Ocean Springs, and loves traveling, especially to New Orleans, but his primary passion is all things culinary, whether it is going to a restaurant, reading a good cookbook, or cooking for his friends. Here’s one last bit of advice from Brune. “I would suggest that anyone who is interested in cooking or even considering a culinary profession read The Making of a Chef by Mark Ruhlman. It’s a great book about his journey through the CIA (Culinary Institute of America).” edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 21

Smoked Asian Pork Shoulder 1 liter soy sauce 3 cups of brown sugar 4 cups of water 1/2 cup of ginger 1/3 cup of fish sauce 2 tablespoons minced garlic 1 package of Pho spices 1 whole white onion 1 orange with zest 1 (6-8 pound) pork shoulder Rub: 1 cup of brown sugar 1 tablespoon of cinnamon 1/2 tablespoon of allspice 2 tablespoons salt 4 tablespoons black pepper Toast the package of Pho spices in a pot over medium low heat for 2-3 minutes. Add the soy sauce, brown sugar, fish sauce, orange juice


and zest. Char the ginger and onion over open flame or under the broiler. Peel and chop and add with garlic to the pot. Slowly simmer the pot for 5 minutes while stirring occasionally to make sure the brown sugar dissolves without burning. Allow this mixture to come to room temperature. Remove the skin from the pork shoulder and marinate overnight in the mixture. Remove pork shoulder from marinade and gently wipe/ wash any of the Pho spices from the shoulder. Apply the rub to the entire shoulder. Smoke the shoulder for approximately 6 hours over cherry wood. Remove from the smoker, wrap in foil, and finish in the oven at 230 degrees until the internal temp of the pork is approximately 200 degrees. Allows the shoulder to rest and cool (this will take a few hours). Remove foil and fat cap and shred for tacos.

Spicy Ginger Lemongrass Chicken


Adam's Kitchen

2 tablespoons minced Ginger 2 tablespoons minced shallot 1 tablespoon minced garlic 6 (3-inch) pieces of cleaned/crushed lemongrass 1 teaspoon olive oil 1/2 cup sriracha (Shark brand) 1/2 cup of seasoned rice wine vinegar 1 stick of cold, unsalted butter 8-10 bone in/skin on chicken thighs

Brussels Sprouts Slaw

Place olive oil in a sauce pan over medium to low heat. Add ginger, shallot, garlic, and lemongrass; cook for 1-2 minutes (until tender, careful not to burn the garlic). Deglaze the pan with the seasoned rice wine vinegar and then add the sriracha. Remove the sauce pan from heat and whisk in 1 tablespoon of cold butter at a time, adding a new piece after the previous has melted. Continue to do this until you have incorporated the entire stick. This method does two things. First, it allows the sauce/marinade to become emulsified and the flavors to come together. Second, and just as important, is that it bring the temperature of the marinade down to an acceptable level in order to apply to the chicken. Place chicken in marinade for a minimum of 6 hours or up to overnight. Remove chicken and cook via oven, grill, or smoker until the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees. Allow chicken to rest and cool before pulling for tacos.

1 package of Brussels sprouts 1/2 head of red cabbage 2 carrots 1 tablespoon olive oil 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 cup of mayonnaise 2 tablespoons seasoned rice wine vinegar 1/3 cup of sriracha (Shark brand) Cut the Brussels sprouts in half and then slice thinly like a julienne. Remove the outer leaves from the red cabbage and use half a head. Cut the cabbage into thin pieces just like the Brussels sprouts. Peel the carrot and grate it using the large holes on a box grater. Heat a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil, Brussels sprouts, and salt. Cook for 5-10 minutes until the Brussels sprouts have softened, the bitterness has been partially removed, and the sprouts start to take on a brownish char from the high heat. Add the sprouts, carrots, and red cabbage to a bowl. Add the mayonnaise, vinegar, and sriracha in a small bowl and whisk until combined. Add more sriracha or mayonnaise to adjust the heat of the dressing to your liking. Dress the shredded ingredients with the dressing until thoroughly covered and refrigerate until serving.

Stay informed of the latest Mississippi culinary news, events, and happenings by visiting our website. While you're there, sign up for our monthly newsletter. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 23

{ deep south dish }

Food. Family. Memories.

Ham Bone Beans Hit the Spot During Sweater Weather BY MARY FOREMAN


y husband is a meat and potatoes man. You could set a platter of any kind of meat in front of him and he’d be perfectly happy to just consume massive amounts of protein, rather than all of those pesky vegetables his wife loves. Forget about meat ‘n three – he’d rather just have meat times three! One way that I manage to round out the budget is by feeding him beans, because he gets a little meat along with belly-filling beans which, at least here in the Deep South, are also very often served over rice. Beans are a popular meal all over the country, of course, but in the South, they have always been an economical way to stretch the grocery budget for families that were both large and poor. Sunday dinners mostly included some form of a bone-in meat, because you can bet your bottom dollar those bones would be reintroduced in some way for another weekday meal. We might be a little bit better off financially these days than our ancestors were, but there is no doubt we southerners still love our beans. As hot as it gets here, we still cook them when the mood strikes us, and that’s all year round. There is nothing better than, when that first round of sweater weather hits the Deep South, the smell a big pot of ham bone beans simmering on the stovetop. Although a couple of good meaty ham hocks, or even another smoked

Mary Foreman, a native of Biloxi, is the author of the popular website, where she shares her favorite, homespun, mostly from scratch and, very often, heirloom and heritage, Southern recipes.


meat like bacon or smoked sausage, can stand in with a pretty good end result, you absolutely cannot beat the flavor that comes from a ham bone stock. I don’t limit my ham baking only to the holidays. One ham can be stretched over multiple meals – besides sliced onto a Pistolette with mayo, mustard, lettuce, and tomato, I love using some for deviled ham salad, pasta salads, casseroles, soups, jambalaya, and all forms of Southern peas and hearty beans, to name a few. I catch half ham shank end portions any time they are on sale and bake them year round, because it brings me joy to stockpile those bones, along with some chunks of ham, in my deep freezer. If you’re not one to bake a ham often, though, I’ve got some good news for you. Head on down to your local ham store, where they sell those spiral sliced beauties, and you can purchase a meaty ham bone by the pound. When I have a hankering for ham bone beans and I don’t have a stockpiled bone, that is exactly what I do. Yes, the old school way of making ham bone beans is a process that takes time, and a dish for modern days that is best reduced to weekend cooking for many of us I suppose, but the flavor pay-off is so worth the effort and time. As far as consistency, these beans fall somewhere between a soup and a stew really, all thick and creamy and soothing, like a pot of ham bone beans ought to be, though you can control where you want that by the amount of stock you use in the second step. Use less for a thicker results, use more for a more soup-like result. One of our readers from northeast Arkansas tells me that the way to go with white beans is to spoon them in a bowl over a chunk of cornbread. We much prefer to spoon our beans over rice here in the Deep South, and serve our bread on the side, but I can’t imagine that’d be anything but good, too. When the mood strikes me, I like to drop a few dumplings in after the beans are mostly tender, so I’ve included a dumpling recipe on page 80 if you’d like to give it a try, too. edm

Old School Ham Bone Beans ŠFrom the Kitchen of Deep South Dish

For the Ham Stock: 1 large meaty hambone Water to cover, plus two inches 2 whole celery stalks (ribs) with leaves, rinsed and cut into large chunks 2 large carrots, unpeeled, rinsed and cut into large chunks 1 large onion, quartered 4 sprigs fresh parsley 2 bay leaves 1/2 teaspoon whole peppercorns For the Beans: 1 tablespoon bacon drippings or cooking oil 1 cup chopped onion 1/4 cup chopped celery 1 carrot, scraped and chopped 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 pound package dried white beans (Great Northern or Navy), soaked overnight 4 slices thick cut bacon, cooked and drippings reserved 2 cups leftover cooked ham, chopped, optional 1-1/2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste 1/2 teaspoon Cajun or Creole seasoning, or to taste 1 cup of the reserved stock Soak beans overnight to speed the cooking process. For the stock, place ham bone in a large stockpot, along

with the remaining stock ingredients, cover with water plus another 2 inches. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, for 1 hour. Strain, reserving the bone and stock; discard vegetables. Reserve all of the stock setting aside 1 cup of the stock separate to use for the gravy. Once cooled, pick off any meat from the bone, reserving the meat and discarding the bone. Heat the bacon drippings or oil in the bottom of the pot and add the chopped onion, celery, and carrot. Cook over medium heat until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, cook another minute. Add the beans to the pot, along with the strained stock, adjusting stock for desired consistency. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer uncovered for about 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile, in a separate small skillet, cook the bacon until lightly crisped, remove and chop, reserving the bacon drippings. Add the bacon and ham to the beans; simmer for 30 minutes longer. Rewarm the bacon drippings, stir in the flour and cook until lightly browned. Stir in the cup of stock you set aside earlier, adding it a little at a time to the roux to make a gravy. Bring to a boil; cook and stir until smooth. Transfer the gravy to the bean pot, stir in, add the salt, pepper and Cajun seasoning, and continue on a simmer, another 30 minutes, or until beans are fully tender. Taste and adjust seasonings. Serve as is, or over hot, cooked rice. Cook’s Notes: I like to prepare the stock a day ahead, refrigerate and then scoop off the fat that accumulates on top. May substitute 2 to 3 meaty ham hocks for the ham bone. To make this into a soup, increase the water in the stock to cover the stock ingredients by double. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 25

{ mississippi made }

Strawberry, coconut, and caramel cakes are the biggest sellers for Sugaree’s Bakery in New Albany.

Strawberry Pie

Chocolate Pie 26 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015

Sweet Memories

Sugaree’s Seeks to ‘Activate Taste Memories from Southern Childhoods’



ugaree’s Bakery in New Albany opened with a $200 accounts to take to a distributor gave Sugaree’s Bakery a good investment for ingredients, a calligraphy pen, and a love customer base upon which to expand,” she said. of baking from owner Mary J. Russell. In 2001, Sugaree’s started working with its first specialty After completing her degree in Biology at the University of food distributor and outgrew Russell’s home-based business Mississippi in 1995 and while in between pharmaceutical sales model. Therefore, Russell opened a commercial kitchen jobs, Russell said she started and the retail store in its the bakery and a “shortcurrent downtown New lived” catering service in Albany location.   1997 from her home. “We doubled our Russell said she learned space and started the mail to bake from her mother as a order business in 2009,” young child.  she said. “Currently, the “She is a fantastic baker bakery is a mix of retail, and always made 30 different mail order, fundraising, and types of Christmas candies wholesale customers with for gifts,” Russell said. “I 25 employees.”  was always right by her Russell said she and her knee, staying up past my employees make around bedtime helping out every 1,000 layer cakes every December. She now works week.  “Production works at the bakery icing caramel kind of like a little factory, cakes and training others to she said. “A team of four to ice caramel cakes.” five ladies work on the bake Russell said she loved line every day. Another baking and knew she was team of four to six ladies good at it. work on the icing line each “I enjoyed it, so with day. My mom and another Mary J. Russell a $200 investment for lady ice 200 to 300 caramel ingredients and a calligraphy cakes per week. A couple pen, I created a price list and baked samples to take to teachers’ of people just scale ingredients and make boxes and break lounges, downtown merchants and other businesses,” Russell hundreds of dozens of fresh eggs each week. We have people said. “My mother-in-law hosted a tasting party for me in New in the office, in the warehouse, in retail, and in mail order Albany at her home, and I also started a relationship with a fulfillment positions. Our management team is getting stronger cooking store in Tupelo, The Basket Case, where I did tastings as we grow.”   for the public before major holidays.” Russell said Sugaree’s top sellers are caramel cake, Russell said once she returned to pharmaceutical sales on strawberry cake, and coconut cake.  a part-time contract, she was allowed to not only continue to She said the bakery’s products are unique for a few reasons.  bake from home, but also purchase cakes from herself to gift “First, we focus on really quality ingredients and depth of to doctors and nurses all around north Mississippi.  flavor,” Russell said.  “Second, we focus on butter more than “This and the early decision to focus on finding wholesale sugar, so all of our products are designed to be moist and rich, eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 27

but not too sweet. Last, we use traditional techniques−we do things the hard way−to provide products consistent with those produced by the best home bakers. By doing that, we have tapped into Mississippi’s rich culinary heritage and produced a product-line that truly activates taste memories from Southern childhoods.”  Sugaree’s specialties can be found all around the country, Russell said. “We ship our cakes, pies, and gift baskets via our mail order site,, and through, a curated online marketplace that claims to source ‘the most legendary and iconic and ridiculously yummy handmade foods in America,’” she said. “Gift stores and gourmet markets in several Deep South states sell our products, and there is a zip code search feature on the bottom of our homepage (on the company website) that can be used to locate retail outlets in a given area.” Although Sugaree’s has limited retail space, Russell said the company does sell a few local food products produced by its “neighbors.”  “At the bakery you can get fresh milk from the Brown Family Dairy in Oxford, fresh eggs from local farmers, and fresh gelato made by Sweet Magnolia in Clarksdale,” she said.  Sugaree’s has also been active in the local farmers market and CSA scene, Russell added.  “We have been a pick up location for Tupelo’s Native Son Farm vegetable CSA and Pontotoc’s Zion Farms chicken CSA. In a future expansion, I’d like to find a way to create a market for other fresh seasonal ingredients that we use, such as local fruits, nuts, and other dairy.” In addition, the company sponsors the Mississippi Picnics in Central Park, Washington D.C., and Atlanta each year and has participated in Food and Wine shows in Seaside, Atlanta, New Orleans, and Charleston. 

“This summer we accepted an invitation to participate in the Big Apple BBQ Block Party with world champion level pit masters from around the country,” Russell said.  As for the future, Russell said her vision of the bakery depends heavily on the future of New Albany. “I have spent the past five years doing a lot of volunteer economic development work through event planning, promotions, and tourism efforts,” Russell said. “As New Albany transitions into a ‘trail town’ with a tourism-based economy surrounding the fantastic opportunity provided by the location of the 44-mile Rails to Trails Conservancy bicycle trail, the Tanglefoot Trail, which starts just outside the bakery door, I’d like to position Sugaree’s as a downtown anchor business and take better advantage of the regional tourism draw that we have.” Russell said she is working on plans to include a premier outdoor event space, a permanent farmers market pavilion, a cooking school, a bakery tour, and a local food market, surrounded by downtown apartment lofts beside the Tallahatchie River and Park Along the River. edm Sugaree’s Bakery 110 W Bankhead St., New Albany 662.534.0031

A legend to the New Albany area, Robbie Ray has donated more than $100K to her church’s youth group for more than 30 years by baking and selling these delicious cream cheese pound cakes. “Miss Robbie taught me her recipe many years ago and Sugaree’s honors her tradition and donates $2 per cake sold to the same charity at the First United Methodist Church in New Albany,” Russell said. This cake was just featured on “The O List” in August 2015 in Oprah Magazine. 

Miss Robbie Ray’s Cream Cheese Pound Cake 8 ounces cream cheese 3 sticks butter 3 cups sugar minus one tablespoon 6 eggs 3 cups plain sifted cake flour Pinch of salt 2 teaspoons vanilla extract Let cream cheese and butter sit until room temp and mix together well. Add sugar and cream until light and fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add flour and salt; beat mixture for three minutes. Add vanilla extract; beat mixture for two more minutes. Pour into greased and floured tube pan and place in cool oven on the lower rack. Turn oven to 300 degrees F for one hour and 40 minutes. 28 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015

Together we can help fight hunger in our state!

Did you know that Mississippi has the worst hunger problem in America? Almost 1 in 4 Mississippians don’t have enough to eat. This has to change and you can help.

Now through the end of November, $5.00 from every new subscription purchased at subscribe will be contributed to Mississippi Food Network. Subscribe today to help provide a meal to someone in need.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 29




roasted Brussels Sprouts with pancetta and balsamic vinegar by Chef Alex Eaton The Manship Wood Fired Kitchen, Jackson

4 cups Brussels sprouts, sliced in half Water Salt Olive oil 1 teaspoon chopped garlic 1 teaspoon chopped shallots 1/2 cup cooked pancetta 1/4 cup white wine or chicken stock 2 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper, to taste J. Olive Co. balsamic vinegar

Blanch Brussels sprouts in water that is salty like the ocean. Shock in ice bath. Pour into strainer and strain off water. Heat olive oil in cast iron skillet. Sauté Brussels sprouts on high heat. Add garlic and shallots and sauté until tender. Next, add cooked pancetta and deglaze with white wine or chicken stock. Add butter and season with salt and pepper. Finish by drizzling with J. Olive Co. balsamic vinegar.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 31

Making B “Life”


HV omestead v Mike and Alison Buehler Teach People How to Do More than Make a Living


story by lisa lafontaine bynum photos courtesy of jonah holland


ust two generations ago, people knew how to live off the land. There were no 24/7 supermarkets, microwaves, instant meals in a box, or out-of-season produce available year round. As everyday life has become more convenient, subsequent generations lost the knowledge that was so vital to our grandparents’ survival. It’s a knowledge that Mike and Alison Buehler, owners of The Homestead Education Center outside of Starkville, hope to reclaim. After living in Knoxville for 10 years, the Buehlers returned to Mississippi to be closer to family. However, once they returned home, they quickly realized that “a lot of things we take for granted weren’t here.” Adds Alison, “Where we came from, we had access to things like farmers markets and Whole Foods. We wanted our children to eat natural foods and we realized the only access we had would be to learn how to do it ourselves.” Buehler describes their adventure initially as a “hobby that went wild.” They began learning how to garden and expanded into raising chickens and pigs. Buehler also admits she had to teach herself how to cook. “I knew how to heat things up and I called that cooking, but I didn’t know how to cook natural foods from scratch.” At the urging of friends, Mike, who is a physician, and Alison, who was a special education teacher, made the bold move to turn their homesteading lifestyle into a career and share their knowledge with the community. They decided to convert their sprawling home located on six acres of lakefront property in Starkville into a lodge, opting to move with their three children into a smaller house across the lake. The homestead’s 5,000 square foot lodge features a large kitchen that can accommodate cooking and nutrition classes, four large meeting spaces including an outdoor classroom, saltwater swimming pool, screened

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 33


eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 35

in porch, and five bedrooms which can sleep up to 26 people. The grounds are home to over an acre of gardens, bees, chickens, and a working greenhouse. The homestead is also partially powered by solar energy. Buehler describes The Homestead Education Center as “an adult camp.” It offers one retreat a month, ranging from day-long classes to all-weekend retreats. Many of the retreats center around real food, positive relationships, personal growth, and healthy living. Buehler leads some of the retreats, but she frequently brings in local and national talent to lead workshops or serve as guest speakers. In the past, The Homestead has hosted notable authors such as Sandor Katz, Jonathan Odell, Donna Jackson Nakazawa, and Glennon Doyle Melton, author of the blog Momastery and the NY Times Best Seller Carry On Warrior. Sue Monk Kidd, author of The Secret Life of Bees, is scheduled as a keynote speaker in 2016. Mike and Alison Buehler 36 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015

“We are teaching people to make a good life,” Buehler explains. “When we were in school, we were taught subjects like health and PE and we probably didn’t pay very much attention because we only thought they were marginally important. Turns out, they were really important.” Beuhler hopes The Homestead will continue to portray Mississippi in a positive light. “There are so many negative things out there about health here in Mississippi. We really want people in Mississippi to know about what we offer. So far we have had a lot of success attracting talent. We want to attract more unique voices and invite them to come to speak. Often when they come to visit, they get really excited about Mississippi.” edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 37

{ in the bloglight }

story by kelsey wells photos provided


hawn Rossi began blogging in 2004, but she never expected her passion for writing about food to be interesting to others. Born in Alabama, her family moved to Mississippi when she was two, and she developed into, as her blog is titled, a Mississippi Foodie. Rossi loved cooking from a young age, but her first attempts at baking struck fear in the heart of her neatfreak mother, especially the day the chocolate chip cookie dough hit the kitchen ceiling. While in graduate school at the University of Southern Mississippi, she rekindled her passion for baking and cooking, making treats for her classmates to share during breaks in long night classes. When she began blogging, she titled her blog Everything and Nothing, then noticed a trend in her posts. She loved to write about food. Whether a restaurant she had eaten at or a new recipe she had just attempted, her posts told the stories behind each dish. The advent of Facebook and Twitter caused her to post less frequently, but in 2011 she began Mississippi Foodie on Blogspot. Approximately once per month she shares a recipe and the story behind it. She hasn’t promoted the blog and was surprised when Eat.Drink. Mississippi contacted her for a feature. “It’s really just for me,” she explains. Rossi is now very active on the new social medium Flipboard, but that doesn’t keep her from updating with new recipes and pictures of the finished products on her blog. Having spent many years on the Mississippi Gulf Coast, she learned the best of both Southern and Coastal cooking. Her recipe for Biloxi-style Shrimp and Grits is modeled after the Jeff Davis Grits served at a restaurant called The French Connection. Rossi, however, modified the recipe a bit to suit her taste. 38 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015

Shawn Rossi Rossi now lives in Brandon with her husband, son, three dogs, and three cats. In addition to writing, she serves as the vice president for education and public relations for the Mississippi Hospital Association. She jokes that many called her a “Yankee” the day she moved north of Interstate 10! With the success of her blog and social media posts, Rossi hopes to include even more time for writing about food in her future. “I hope the future holds many, many more great stories about cooking and eating in Mississippi!” she said. She believes and finds inspiration in the words of Julia Child: “People who love to eat are always the best people.” edm

Biloxi-style shrimp and grits For the shrimp: 1 pound shirmp, peeled and deveined 1/2 stick butter Lemon pepper Salt Pepper Melt butter in sauté pan and then add the shrimp. Sprinkle liberally with lemon pepper, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until shrimp are bright pink and opaque, about 2 minutes.

For the grits: 6 cups water 1 stick butter 1-1/2 cups quick grits Small block Velveeta cheese Salt Pepper Hot sauce 3 eggs Bring 6 cups of water and a stick of butter to boil on high heat. Add 1 1/2 cups of quick grits (and follow package directions). After the grits are prepared, add a small block of Velveeta cheese (cut in small pieces) and add salt, pepper and hot sauce to taste. (Remember that grits don’t have much taste on their own so it generally takes a lot of seasoning.) Beat three eggs. Add some of the hot grits to the eggs and stir in, then add the egg mixture to the grits. Pour into a 13x9 pan and bake for one hour at 300 degrees. To serve, put grits in a bowl and spoon shrimp mixture on top (being sure to give each serving some of the butter sauce, too). eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 39

Turkey Transformation


recipes, food styling, and photography by lorie roach Thanksgiving is likely to leave you with a pile of leftover turkey. Don’t settle for another boring turkey sandwich or even worse, throw it away. Transform it into one, or all, of these delicious dishes that will leave you gobbling for more.

White Cheddar Mashed Potato and Turkey Cakes

White Cheddar Mashed Potato and Turkey Cakes 3 cups leftover mashed potatoes, room temperature 1 large egg, lightly beaten 1 cup shredded white cheddar cheese 1 cup very finely chopped leftover turkey, white and dark meat 2 green onions, finely chopped 1/3 cup all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more as needed for frying Place the mashed potatoes in a bowl. Add the egg and stir to combine. Add remaining ingredients and stir until

combined. Heat the oil in a medium nonstick frying pan over medium heat until hot. Using an ice cream scoop, drop 2 to 3 scoops of the potato-cheese mixture into the pan and flatten each cake slightly with the back of a spatula. Cook until the bottoms are golden brown, about 4 to 5 minutes. Carefully flip the cakes and cook until golden brown on the second side, about 4 to 5 minutes more. Remove to a paper towel lined plate and repeat with remaining mixture, adding more oil as necessary. 7-8 cakes.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 41

Turkey Club Tossed Salad

with Honey Mustard Vinaigrette

Turkey Club Tossed Salad 1 (16-ounce) bag shredded iceberg lettuce 2 cups chopped leftover turkey, cut into 1/2 inch cubes 2 medium avocados, seeded and chopped into 1/2 inch cubes 2 cups cherry tomatoes, sliced lengthwise in half 1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion 1 cup shredded cheese 4 slices cooked bacon, chopped Honey Mustard Vinaigrette, recipe follows Place all ingredients in a salad bowl and gently toss to mix. Drizzle with about 1/2 cup of honey mustard vinaigrette and toss gently again. Serve immediately with extra vinaigrette on the side.

Honey Mustard Vinaigrette 1 garlic clove, pressed or very finely chopped 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons honey 3 tablespoons apple cider 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil Place all ingredients in a jar and shake vigorously. Use immediately.


eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 43


Smoky Turkey Dip

Smoky Turkey Dip 1 cup very finely chopped leftover turkey, white and dark meat 1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened to room temperature 1/2 cup mayonnaise 1 1/2 teaspoons liquid smoke 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon paprika Beat together the cream cheese and mayonnaise until smooth. Add the remaining ingredients and beat until well combined. Serve with tortilla chips, pita chips or toasted baguette slices. *This dip can be served warm. Just place in microwave for 1-2 minutes on high until warm. *I pulsed my turkey in the food processor until very finely chopped.

For more of Lorie’s delicious recipes, visit

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 45

{ from mississippi to beyond }

Southern Cooking from the Heart

By Kathy K. Martin


ee Downer is a true Southern boy at heart who hasn’t forgotten his Mississippi roots. He may live in Oklahoma now, but he continues to dish up Southern home cooking that reminds him of home at Kendall’s Restaurant. His favorite memories of growing up in Starkville center on his family and their many gatherings for holidays and Sunday dinners. “My whole family is about food and that’s how I learned,” Downer says, “I don’t cook from recipes. I cook from the heart.” Downer’s family-inspired recipes for chicken fried steak, catfish, hand-breaded chicken and homemade cinnamon rolls dominate the Kendall’s menu. Downer says that about 90% of the menu represents the state foods of Oklahoma with a mix of Southern and Midwest cuisine. “The chicken fried steak is our main draw and our number one seller.” He prepares homemade chicken and dumplings every Thursday and creates special burgers such as a chili cheese Frito burger, a redneck burger and other “fork and knife” specialty burgers. One of his restaurant philosophies is that no one needs to pay for dessert, so all diners at Kendall’s receive a fresh cinnamon roll at the end of their meal, which he offers in flavors such as maple bacon and caramel pumpkin. “My thinking is that they (customers) are full after their meal and I give them a sugar rush to get them home,” jokes Downer, who operates the Noble, Oklahoma-based restaurant with his friend, Kim Lock. Kim’s mother used to own the restaurant and named it for her granddaughter, Kim’s daughter, Kendall, who grew up working at the restaurant. They are still partners after 29 years, but Downer says that they are more like family than business partners. The restaurant’s tag line is “Where everyone is family,” and Downer says that they strive to treat customers as extended family. The 6,000-square-foot restaurant, which seats just 170 people, is located outside of Norman near the University of Oklahoma and in the middle of the thriving oil industry so customers come from all over the world. “Kendall’s,” says Downer, “is a 100% destination place.” Through special dining offers and a large presence on Facebook, visitors come from every state and all seven continents. Décor inside the 110-year-old brick building resembles a pop culture museum with over 600 artifacts displayed on the walls and in cases that represent the people and the history of the state. Even more interesting is that the historic building 46 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015

resides near what used to be a train depot and livery stable where cattle drives were a regular occurrence at the turn of the century. According to legend and confirmed by several ghost hunters that have visited Kendall’s, the restaurant is haunted by five ghosts. A pioneer lady dressed in black and named Margaret has been known to wander through the back of the kitchen, where objects move or fall to the ground without explanation. Even Kendall and her friend, Michelle, recall seeing Margaret when they were little girls and were scared of

Dee Downer

her because she yelled at them. The ghost sightings just add to the mystique of Kendall’s and keep the customers coming back. In addition to his family and friends, Downer also misses the wide variety of Mississippi vegetables and his home state’s much longer growing season compared to Oklahoma. “I grew up shelling purple hull peas while watching T.V. on a Saturday afternoon and I sure miss those days.” He educates the young people who work at Kendall’s who didn’t grow up with purple fingertips and shows them how vegetables are done in

Mississippi. Born in Jackson, many of Downer’s family members still live in Starkville, Jackson and Brookhaven and many have worked in the restaurant business. His father, Don, and stepmother, Jackie, are gourmet cooks in their own right, says Downer, and they inspire him in his cooking. Some of his favorite dishes are his grandmother’s broccoli cheese casserole and his Great Aunt Dorothy’s signature ginger “stage plank” cookies. Downer frequently cooks at home and says that he always eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 47

makes enough to invite friends to join him and his wife, who is also named Downer, for dinner. He enjoys making pecan-crusted trout or pulled pork, which he says he has perfected until it’s better than his father’s recipe. His wife recently bought him an electronic pressure cooker and he makes dishes such as braised short ribs that fall right off the bone after just an hour in the cooker. Whether it’s the ghost stories, historic artifacts or the home-cooking, Downer believes that Kendall’s represents the best of the South and its food. edm

Grandma Marge Kuzmits’s Broccoli Cheese Casserole 1 stick of margarine 1 onion, chopped 1 can cream of mushroom soup 1 jar of Cheese Whiz (I use the large one) 1/2 cup raw rice, cooked 1 (20 ounce) package chopped broccoli, thawed 1 ounce slivered almonds Cook rice. While rice is cooking, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Melt margarine in a skillet and cook onions until clear. Add broccoli and simmer until fork tender. Add soup, Cheese Whiz, rice, and almonds. Stir well. Pour into a greased baking dish and bake for 25 minutes.

Kendall’s Restaurant 100 Main St. Noble, Okla. 405.872.0303


Aunt Dorothy Gelston’s Ginger Cookies (Stage Planks) 1egg 1/2 cup lard 2/3 cup sugar 1 cup table syrup 3 cups flour 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon nutmeg 1 tablespoon ginger 1 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cream sugar and lard together. Add all other ingredients and mix well. Roll out onto an ungreased non-stick cookie sheet. Bake for approximately 20 minutes until light brown. You may also substitute light Karo for lighter cookies or some molasses for darker cookies. Sprinkle the top with some sugar and cut into 1-1/2 inch squares. (I use a pizza cutter). Store in a Ziploc bag. If the cookies become hard, add a slice of apple in the Ziploc bag to resoften the cookies.

The Crown of Southern Cooking

{ from the bookshelf }

Recipes from the Birthplace of the Blues Author: Evelyn Roughton | Publisher: Quail Ridge Press by kelsey wells


he Crown Restaurant has seen its share of variety over the past nearly 40 years of business. Situated in the heart of the Delta in Indianola, visitors from across the U.S. and many foreign countries have entered its doors for a taste of the South with an elegant twist. As the B.B. King Museum and Delta Interpretive Center are also located in Indianola, blues music enthusiasts are common guests at the tables. Celebrity chef Bobby Flay has filmed live in the kitchen, and the Smoked Catfish Paté created there has won an International Fancy Food Award. Though Evelyn Roughton has passed the charge of the restaurant to daughter Jennifer, you can be assured that she will be there every possible day to pass the bread to guests with a smile. Now, cooks can recreate some of the famous Crown dishes at home with the help of the new cookbook The Crown of Southern Cooking: Recipes from the Birthplace of the Blues. The volume opens to stunning photography of tempting strawberry pies and a Delta cotton field in its white glory. A tribute to the late blues ambassador and musician B.B. King prefaces the recipes. Appetizers and beverages begin the chapters of Southern indulgences with Janice’s Hot Crawfish Dip and Mock Mint Julep among the offerings. Mama’s Buttermilk Cornbread and The Crown’s Crepes add tastiness to a variety of breads and brunch items. In keeping with the theme of Southern fare, Mississippi Seafood Chowder is just one of the soup recipe offerings. Looking for a lighter option? Try your hand at recreating The Crown’s Fresh Spinach Salad or My Favorite Green Bean Salad, or maybe choose Roasted Asparagus with Peppers and Onion or Bayou Rice Pilaf. Heartier appetites will appreciate Delta Cheese Grits and World’s Best Catfish Salad. A properly prepared meat dish is essential in any Southern meal, and beef, pork, chicken and seafood are all featured in the cookbook. Learn how to make The Crown’s Stuffed Porkchops or master the art of a Delta Crawfish Boil. One of the best parts of visiting The Crown is trying the many dessert options. From Mud Pie Chocolate Cake to Angelic Coconut Pecan Slices to the Crown’s Plantation Pie, recipes have been carefully recorded for the home chef. Roughton finishes off her tasty collection with the restaurant’s Black Butter, Larry’s BBQ Sauce, and other special seasonings that will give your dishes The Crown’s unique flavors. Of course, you’re always welcome to dine at The Crown, but if the trip isn’t an option for you, or you’re a former guest wanting to experience those flavors again, get a copy of The Crown of Southern Cooking. Then you will be able to, as the back cover proclaims, “Eat Like a King!” edm

photo by jennifer schaumburg

orange breakfast ring 1 cup sugar 3 tablespoons grated orange rind 1/3 cup butter 2 (12-ounce) cans buttermilk biscuits 1 (3-ounce) package cream cheese, softened 1/2 cup powdered sugar 2 tablespoons orange juice Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly butter a 9-inch Bundt or tube pan. Melt butter in a bowl in microwave. In another bowl, mix sugar and orange rind. Dip each biscuit in melted butter, then in sugar mixture. Stand each biscuit on its side in tube pan, making a circle. Bake about 30 minutes, until nicely browned. When ring is baked, turn onto a serving plate. While ring is baking, thoroughly combine cream cheese, powdered sugar, and orange juice. Spread over ring, and serve immediately. Variation: For a smaller ring, use just one can of biscuits, but keep other ingredients the same.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 49

{ community }

A Sense of Community Before Pinterest, There Was the Community Cookbook By Lisa LaFontaine Bynum


ust about every cookbook collection has at least one. Some are simple, spiral-bound copies sandwiched together between two pieces of cardstock. Others are professionally bound, accented with beautiful slick pages and professionally photographed table settings. They may have been passed down from an older generation or purchased to raise money for your church, your school, or your local Junior League. There are hundreds of community cookbooks in circulation that span decades. Locating a copy of every single one would be a daunting task, but it’s one that Dr. Andrew Haley, associate professor of American cultural history at the University of Southern Mississippi, is willing to give a try. In 2014, Haley launched the Mississippi Community Cookbook Project. Funded by a startup grant by from the College of Arts and Letters, Haley has been working closely with the McCain Library and Archives at the university to collect, digitize, and study Mississippi’s unique culinary heritage through its community cookbooks. “Cookbooks are an amazing resource to be able to get an idea of people’s everyday lives in Mississippi over the decades,” Haley explains. “We are not only trying to preserve these cookbooks,


but put the cookbooks in the context of that community. The real stories are embedded locally. As you look through these books, you see how changes in the economy and racial and gender changes play out.” Examining the relationship between food and history is a topic that fascinates Haley and one he has studied extensively. In 2011, he published Turning the Tables: Restaurants and the Rise of the American Middle Class, 1880-1920 (University of North Carolina Press), which examines the relationship between the rise of the American restaurant and the middle class. Turning the Tables won the 2012 James Beard Foundation Book Award in Reference and Scholarship and was also named a finalist in the 2012 International Association of Culinary Professionals Book Award in Culinary History. The idea for the Mississippi Community Cookbook Project came about after Haley was asked to give a short speech for the Mississippi Humanities Council. He wanted to speak on something Mississippi-related and, in the process of preparing for his discussion, discovered and fell in love with Mississippi’s community cookbooks. Haley soon realized more investment in preserving these books needed to be made. Haley has chosen to focus initially on publications printed between 1900 and 1970. “Sharing books printed before 1970 is permissible by copyright,” Haley explains, but he quickly adds, “That doesn’t mean we aren’t collecting books from other decades. As we have received other books, we are adding them to our archives. Hopefully in 20 years, we can digitize more.” Jennifer Brannock, curator of Rare Books and Mississippiana at USM, is working with Haley to oversee the digitization process. Once a book is received and the copyright

is verified, it is sent to the digital lab where the staff scans the book, assigns key words and descriptors, and then adds it to the digital collection. However, archiving one of these cookbooks goes way beyond digitization. Haley’s goal is to provide the public with a bigger picture of how the cookbook fits into the community during the timeframe in which it was published. He has accomplished this by collecting essays from his students and other writers. Once a book is made available online, readers are able to learn about the history of the community where the book originated and the story behind why the cookbook was published in addition to viewing a complete digital version of the cookbook itself. Haley frequently shares fun facts about the cookbooks in the collection on the projects Facebook page. To date, 31 cookbooks are available online with several more in the works. They can be found through the Mississippi Community Cookbook Project website or under the Mississippiana collections on University of Southern Mississippi Digital Collections website. Haley also plans to have complete transcripts of the books available within the next six months. After the digitization process is complete, the original publication is added to the university’s collection at the McCain Library and Archives. The entire cookbook collection is available for public viewing with a valid ID. Currently, USM has the largest collection in the state of Mississippi community cookbooks. Some books have been purchased through garage and estate sales and thrift stores. However, as word of the project gets out, more people are donating copies. “There are about 100-120 titles in print that we know about,” Haley says. “Of course, we may never really know how

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 51

many books have actually been printed. The more we get the word out, the more people are helping. It is very gratifying that people are sharing their grandmother’s cookbooks.” Brannock points out, “The books don’t have to be old. We will take any cookbooks people have. Some people are cleaning out their cabinets and think no one wants these books, so they plan on throwing them away. Bring them to us first!” Haley goes on to add, “These books mean so many things to so many people – preserving family history, archiving old recipes that may have been forgotten, providing the ability to connect with family or remembering people from the past, and providing insight into people’s lives. This has really been an exciting time to study food.” Individuals who are interested in donating cookbooks can bring them to Jennifer Brannock at the McCain Library and Archives on the University of Southern Mississippi Campus. Cookbooks can also be mailed to The University of Southern Mississippi; Attn: Dr. Andrew Haley; 118 College Drive #5148; Hattiesburg, MS 39406. edm Mississippi Community Cookbook Project Website Mississippi Community Cookbook Project Facebook The University of Southern Mississippi Digital Collections

Green Turtle Patties Mrs. James Locascio Straight From the Galley: A Cook Book of Old Family and Favorite Recipes Woman’s Auxiliary, Bay-Waveland Yacht Club (Bay St. Louis, MS) 1952

Procure from the market 1-1/2 pounds fresh turtle meat. Wash thoroughly and dry well. In a large pot place 2 tablespoons lard and fry turtle meat until brown. Remove from pot. In the same pot, make a roux of 2 heaping tablespoons flour, add 1 onion and 1 clove garlic, both finely chopped. Brown, then add 1/2 green pepper finely chopped. Add 2 tablespoons tomato paste. Cook all a few minutes then add 1 quart water. Add 1 stalk celery, 2 sprigs parsley and 1 sprig thyme, all finely chopped. Add 1/2 half teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Place the prepared turtle meat back in the pot and allow to simmer slowly until tender. The water should then be of thick gravy consistency. Add 1 small can mushrooms and 1 tablespoon sherry. Serve in patty shells which have been well heated. 52 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015

Corn Light Bread (Presbyterian Light Bread) Mary Majors Norwood Presbyterian Cook Book Booneville Presbyterian Church (Booneville, MS) 1948

1 pint boiling water Meal 1/2 cup buttermilk 1 teaspoon soda 2 pints cold water 1/2 cup lard 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup sugar 1 cup flour The evening before you wish to bake, make a gruel of the boiling water and meal, then add the cold water thickened with corn meal to a stiff batter. Set in a warm place until morning. When it is risen and water on top is gone in, put in the lard, salt, buttermilk with soda dissolved in it, sugar, flour, and 1/2 cup corn meal. Let rise and bake in a large cake pan with tube.

Queen of Puddings Mrs. Frank G. Wisner Mrs. W. A. Catlin Laurel Cook Book Women of St. John’s Episcopal Church Guild (Laurel, MS) 1914

1 pint of bread crumbs 3 eggs 1 quart of milk 1 cupful of sugar Piece of butter the size of an egg 1 lemon or 1/2 capful of raisins Soak the bread in the milk, add the sugar, yolk of egg, butter and grated lemon peel or raisins and flavoring. Bake in a deep pudding dish until set like custard. When cool, spread a layer of tart jelly over it and cover with a meringue made of the whites of 3 eggs, 1 cupful of sugar, and, if desired, the juice of a lemon. Brown quickly. Suggestion: If making Bread Pudding with raisins, add a small portion of finely cut citron. Mrs. Robert Tatham.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 53

{ raise your glass }

Spice It Up! pumpkin spice syrup 1-1/2 cups water 1-1/2 cups sugar 4 cinnamon sticks 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg 3 tablespoons pumpkin purée Heat the water and sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar is fully dissolved. Use a whisk to stir in the remaining ingredients. Turn down the heat to medium-low and cook for about 6 minutes, stirring frequently. Try not to let the mixture come to a boil. Place two thick paper towels on top of each other into a fine mesh strainer set over a large measuring cup. Strain the syrup through the paper towel lined strainer. (Cheesecloth and coffee filters work well here, too.) Pour the strained syrup into a storage bottle with a lid and keep in the refrigerator. To make a hot pumpkin spice latte: Stir together 1 1/2 tablespoons of syrup to each shot of espresso. Add frothed milk and stir to combine. To make an iced pumpkin spice latte: Stir together 1 1/2 tablespoons of syrup for each shot of espresso, then add desired amount of cold milk. Serve over ice cubes. To make a pumpkin spice iced coffee: Stir together 1/2 cup of milk to 1/2 cup toddy (iced coffee), then mix in 1/4 cup syrup. Serve over ice. To make a pumpkin spice blended coffee: Stir together 1/2 cup of milk to 1/2 cup toddy (iced coffee), then mix in 1/4 cup syrup. Pour into a blender, add 2 cups ice and mix until well blended. Optional: Add a teaspoon of white chocolate powder when blending. Other options: Add a splash to hot coffee, hot chocolate, smoothie, etc.


Recipe and photography by Nikki Gladd. For more of Nikki’s delicious recipes, visit

Five O’Clock on Deer Creek -



AC’s StHernando eakhouse • Pub The Hills

The Delta -

The West TwistedPointBurger Company The Pines

- Lou’sJackson Full Serv -


The Bl i nd Tiger Bay St. Louis


Our wonderful state is divided into five travel regions - The Hills, The Delta, The Pines, Capital/River, and Coastal. It is our goal to give equal coverage to all regions of the state in every issue. The following sections are color coded by region for your convenience. We hope you will take the time and travel to all regions to take advantage of the diverse culinary styles present throughout our state. We do suggest that you call to verify operating hours before visiting any of these wonderful establishments.


eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 55

The Hills

story and photography by coop cooper a.k.a. the small town critic


The Hills

AC’s Steakhouse Pub owners Cindy Borkowski and Aaron Hahn

Local Hot Spot

AC’s Steakhouse Pub in Hernando Has More to Offer Than the Usual Neighborhood Pub eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 57

The Hills

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Pan-seared Halibut with Vegetables and Saffron Butter Sauce, Melon Martini, Mustard-crusted Seared Ahi Tuna with Sticky Sushi Rice and Kimchi Vegetables


aron Hahn, Cindy Borkowski, and Executive Chef Albert Morgan are no strangers to the restaurant business or each other. They have all stuck together over the last decade and these self-proclaimed “foodies” have collaborated once again to create AC’s Steakhouse Pub in Hernando (the ‘AC’ standing for ‘Aaron’ and ‘Cindy’). Coming from the ‘casino world’ as they call it, owners Hahn and Borkowski have worked in restaurants all over the country. Borkowski comes from a hospitality management and accounting background as well as a culinary degree. Hahn counts AC’s as the twenty-sixth restaurant he has worked in or operated while Chef Morgan has lost count of the number of places where he has prepared food over the years. Their inspiration for the restaurant was simple: “We were looking for a great place to sit down and have a steak,” says Borkowski. “...and we’ve been watching the property for a long time and it came up for sale,” adds Hahn. “It’s an eighty year-old building. The last four businesses were all restaurants. Before that it was an ice cream shop, a newspaper print company, it’s been a grocery store, a laundromat... It’s got quite the history.” The “Pub” in the title suggests a casual dining atmosphere, which is exactly the feeling you get when you first enter the 58 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015

front door. The subdued lighting, the intimate booths, the centrally-positioned bar and multiple TV screens paint the picture of a relaxed, sports bar that might specialize in simple hot wings and pizza. Take a left turn into the large dining room and you realize there is more to this pub than meets the eye. Taking a peek at the menu further confirms this suspicion. AC’s has far more to offer than the usual neighborhood pub and, after being in operation for two years this November, they have nearly twenty awards so far to prove it. “We got voted ‘Best Sports Bar’ in the county,” says Hahn. “We are huge football fans so we try to push a lot of sports. That’s why we have all the TVs. You can get a great burger here, but you can can also get a great steak. We are going for a casual atmosphere with fine dining food.” The lunch menu features the establishment’s signature steaks as well as a variety of sandwiches and burgers. Patrons can choose from a bone-in ribeye, NY strip, filet mignon, or the sirloin grilled to your preferred temperature and topped with steak butter with an option to pair a 6 oz. lobster tail or shrimp to the order. The burgers come with your choice of cheese, bacon, mushrooms, or the unique Cowboy Burger covered with cheese, grilled onions, ham, and barbecue sauce. Other sandwiches include the Philly Cheesesteak, Shrimp Po’

Boy, Beef & Chicken Sliders, Chicken Sandwich, Reuben, Monte Cristo, the Club, and Chicken & Veggie Wraps. There is also a catfish platter for Mississippi purists as well as a large assortment of soups and salads and appetizers. Kid-friendly options like Grilled Cheese, Mac ‘n Cheese, Chicken Tenders, Cheeseburger or Popcorn Shrimp are available for lunch and dinner. The dinner menu includes the same choice of steaks, burgers, soups, salads, sides, and appetizers while adding a tasty array of entrées. Customers can enjoy the Shrimp Platter, the Seafood Combo (jumbo shrimp and fish steamed in a parchment pouch with rice and vegetable medley), Catfish Platter, Double Lobster Tails, Surf ‘n Turf, Chicken Cordon Bleu, Porterhouse Pork Chop, Baby Back Ribs, Lobster Mac ‘n Cheese, Chicken Pasta, Seafood Pasta, or the Pasta Primavera. The Sunday Brunch likewise includes the signature steaks, shrimp, catfish, and salads as well as breakfast favorites like Eggs Benedict, Gourmet Stuffed French Toast, Country Fried Steak & Two Eggs, make-your-own Three Egg Omelet, and a Brunch Burger with bacon or ham, cheese, fried egg, lettuce, tomato, and onion. For the sweet tooth, AC’s offers desserts like Fried Cheesecake, Flourless Chocolate Cake, Crème Brûlée, Cobbler of the Day, and an a la mode upgrade for any of these options. “Our featured items, our specials, we get to get a little more crazy with, but Erica (Hahn’s wife and Pub manager), says ‘If I can’t pronounce it, I’m not eating it’, so we try to make it nonpretentious,” says Hahn. Those specials can include Chef Morgan’s Heirloom Tomatoes with Fresh Mozzarella and Basil, Pan-seared Halibut with vegetables and Saffron Butter Sauce, or his gorgeous Mustard-crusted Seared Ahi Tuna with Sticky Sushi Rice and Kimchi Vegetables. The seasons and availability of ingredients

The Hills

dictate the frequency and variety of the specials. “Our goal is to have top-quality ingredients,” says Hahn. “We don’t cut corners on anything across the board. I’d say 95% of our items are made from scratch. We’re not milking the cows, but we are getting as close as we can. It’s high quality food at a fair price so people can afford to eat here on a weekly basis, not once a month.” The dining room can accommodate large groups for parties, such as wedding rehearsal dinners. “We had a bridal shower last night, medical business meetings, we’ve done graduation parties. We actually had a wedding happen in here in May,” says Borkowski. Hahn also stresses how important it is for them to support the community. “We buy as much as we can from the local farmers market. It’s important to know where our food comes from,” says Hahn. Hahn and Borkowski depend on Hernando residents and the customers who come down from Memphis and the nearby surrounding areas in Tennessee. Their rapid growth has encouraged them to look into expanding with a second location in that direction. Hahn attributes a lot of their success to their management techniques. “Our service is pretty top-notch, too. We have much more training than most places I’ve seen and much less turnover because of it. We really appreciate the locals and because of the good service and good food, we have some loyal customers.” edm

AC’s Steakhouse Pub 333 Losher St., Hernando 662.469.9790

Center Cut Filet with Crab-Stuffed, Cold Water Lobster Tail

Heirloom Tomatoes with Fresh Mozzarella and Basil

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 59

The Delta

Chillin’ Creek on the

Relax and Have a Good Time in Scott at Five O’clock on Deer Creek story and photography by anne martin

Bubba Rhoden has long enjoyed broiled shrimp and knew this was going to be a favorite with customers. 60 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015

The Delta

Surrounded by buildings that are part of the Monsanto agricultural research facility, 5 O’clock on Deer Creek offers a place to slow down, rock a while on the front porch and enjoy good food along with family and friends.


riving through the Mississippi Delta, not too far from the Mississippi River in Bolivar County, through cotton fields, farm buildings, and a collection of lovely, shaded homes sits a restaurant. It’s nestled along the banks of Deer Creek in the middle of a town that’s really not a town because it’s unincorporated, even though it has a post office and a zip code. But for the past several months, folks have been flocking to Scott to eat at 5 O’clock on Deer Creek. Yes, it’s a tad off the beaten path, but customers are saying the scenic drive is well worth the trip for a fine meal, good service, and owners who want to make sure everyone has a good time on the creek. “I just want everyone who comes here to enjoy themselves,” said 56 year-old Bubba Rhoden, who owns the restaurant with his wife, Linda. “I have fun in the kitchen making good food, so why not have fun eating it!” The restaurant is located in the center of the community, a wood and metal building with a wide, partially screened-in porch across the front. Rocking chairs offer guests the perfect setting for taking in the Delta evening. Inside, things are a bit livelier. Families, business meetings, and gatherings of friends are scattered around the big open room. Bubba makes it a point to talk to everyone in the place. He also oversees making sure they get what they came for – good food. The menu is not extensive, but its offerings are big on flavor. Appetizers include charbroiled oysters, snow crab legs, homemade gumbo, semi-boneless quail, and hot tamales made by David Shamoon of Greenville. “I enjoy charbroiled oysters and I love to make them, so I knew right away they were going to be offered on the menu,” Bubba said, whose real name is Charles Allen Rhoden. “Just the right amount of seasonings and cheese and I pop it under the broiler just until the cheese is a bit crisp around the edges.

Perfect!” And to make sure the charbroiled oysters, along with the broiled shrimp and fried shrimp, are the best they can be, he and his wife, Linda, travel to Venice, La. every three weeks or so for fresh seafood. “When you bite into one of our shrimp, I want you to get a good bite, not bite into some small shrimp, but something you can really sink your teeth into,” said Linda Rhoden while in the kitchen preparing another batch of fried shrimp. “And nothing beats the taste of fresh seafood. Nothing.” The broiled shrimp comes with fresh, hot bread and plenty of juice for sopping. “That’s the best part of the shrimp is the sop,” Bubba said while making sure everyone at the table understood the fine art of dipping the bread into the perfectly seasoned juice in which the shrimp had been cooked. In addition to the shrimp, steaks are a specialty of the house. The Cowboy Bone-in ribeye, along with the ribeye big enough for two, and the filet are seasoned and cooked to perfection according to the customer’s liking. “If you are going to cook a steak, you better make it good,” Bubba said. “I’m proud of our steaks.” All of the entrées are served with a salad and French fries or twice baked potato. The kids menu features chicken rings, pizza sticks, or Mozzarella sticks. Dessert consists of pecan pie and brownie pie a la mode. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 61

The Delta

But the restaurant might never have opened had it not been for a fire. The building that houses the eatery was once home to a NAPA auto parts store run by Bubba Rhoden. When the business burned in October 2013, he realized it was going to take a lot of money to re-open. It was during a drive to New Orleans that the idea of 5 O’clock on Deer Creek was cooked up. “I said ‘let’s open us a little ole restaurant in Scott.’ Linda said, ‘have you lost your mind?’” By early 2014, the restaurant was in business. The couple, who has been married for 32 years, both like to cook. They spent a few weeks in their home kitchen testing recipes to make sure the flavor was just right before they opened. Bubba said he learned to cook from watching his mother in the kitchen, but it was more from necessity. “I like to eat and I like to eat good food, so as an adult, I had to learn to cook.” Bubba mans the grills, along with friend Jamie Hearn, overseeing the steaks, charbroiled oysters, and broiled shrimp. Linda takes care of the fried shrimp and potatoes, but together they do all the prep work and make sure everyone has a good time. “When you come in here, I want you have a great meal and a good time,” Bubba said. “I like everybody, happy, happy, and 62 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015

full.” He went on to say the reception to the little restaurant in the middle of nowhere has been great and getting better and better. “We are only open three nights a week (Thursday, Friday and Saturday) and we are seeing a full house many nights,” Bubba added. “And most Friday nights we entertain with live music.” The simple, uncomplicated wood and metal building has a porch across the front, with plans to enclose it in the coming months to make room for additional tables. Currently, approximately 80 seats are offered. Customers can bring their own wine or whiskey. Beer and soft drinks are offered. Bubba says they should come with an appetite and a desire to have a great meal and have fun. “This has truly amazed us. But we are having a ball.” edm 5 O’clock on Deer Creek 219 Deer Creek Dr., Scott 662.822.2280 CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE - Charbroiled Oysters, Linda and Bubba Rhoden, Fried Shrimp, Fried Okra

The Delta

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 63

The Pines

twisted good 64 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015

The Western

The Pines

Get Your Burger Fix at The Twisted Burger Company in West Point

by katie hutson west


here are two types of The Twisted Burger Company fans: the ones who order their favorite burger and nothing else, and those who make sure they try a different burger every visit. Opened a little over three years ago, the little service station converted to burger joint sits nestled right at the edge of downtown West Point on scenic Highway 50. The outside seating is perfect for watching the quaint, small town drift by and the counter inside is the place to spectate as owner J.T. Hurst grills up some delicious burgers. With the tempting smells wafting up from the fire pit, be prepared for some mouth-watering. Hurst, a self-made burger connoisseur, has had plenty of experience sampling burgers. “My dad was a truck driver all my life and the best part about going out on the road with him was stopping at the truck stops, the old mom and pop places nobody really knew about, and eating the best burgers,” Hurst recalls, adding, “that’s why I think of burgers as the ‘All-American’ food.” Born and raised in West Point, Hurst had no idea that one day he would open his own restaurant. But with a lot of hard work and help from his family, his vision became a reality. And the folks of the Golden Triangle have been flooding through the doors ever since to taste one of his award-winning burgers. Just alone, the burger patty is exceptionally flavored and chargrilled to perfection with a nice little crust. Mixing in pork meat makes this burger juicy and smack full of flavor. Hurst uses a 73/27 ratio of pork sausage blend; making his burgers finger-licking good. The Twisted Burger Co. has some burgers not usually found in other joints. A burger called ‘The Elvis’ (a salute to the King and something I eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 65

The Pines The F5 challenge consists of a burger with five patties and a pound of fries.

The Luther burger is made with local Hoover’s Bakery donuts.


J.T. Hurst, owner of The Twisted Burger Company, and his mother work hard in the kitchen.

The Pines

think he would’ve loved to sink his teeth into) is a patty topped with smooth peanut butter, bacon, and fried bananas and is a burger fans seek out again and again. “We have a lot of people who eat only the Elvis…for them, they love it instantly,” says Scottie, waitress at The Twisted Burger Co. Hurst says that although you can never go wrong with the traditional burger, he recommends stepping out of the box. “Try the Rooster…it’s like breakfast on a burger,” Hurst suggests of his favorite. “Folks like it so much they’ve started ordering other burgers, but telling us to put an egg on it!” At The Twisted Burger Co., they are always looking to create burgers that are far from the norm. Their burger toppings are unique and the list is constantly growing. Like the crack dip burger, topped with The Twisted Burger Co.’s famous homemade crack dip. It’s creamy and cheesy and hard to get enough of. The Big Island burger is also perfectly topped with sweet teriyaki sauce, jack cheese, and a grilled pineapple. Atop the Criquet, cream cheese and jalapeños mix in perfect harmony and will make your taste buds sing. Always pushing the envelope (well, in this case, bun), the folks at The Twisted Burger Co. offer twisted specials all the time. The Luther, a patty covered in thick bacon and cheddar cheese slapped between a couple of local Hoover’s Bakery glazed donuts, is such a hit regulars have been known to bring in their own donuts, just to make sure they can get their fix. Another popular special is the Godzilla; a burger that doesn’t even need any condiments because it is overloaded with corn beef, roast beef, turkey, and ham. With so many delicious burgers to choose from, it’s a wonder The Twisted Burger Co. offers so much more. Their wraps and sandwiches, wings and hotdogs, and other twisted goodies are just as good. The Twisted Burger Co. also has a lot of sides, but one stands above the others as the local favorite…sweet potato fries. So good it could be served alone as dessert, this treat is hand-cut, fried, sprinkled with brown sugar, and paired with honey for dipping. At this family run business, members do a little bit of everything, but mom is in charge of dessert. Chess pie squares, brownies, and mini cheesecakes are all homemade with lots of love and sell out fast. “She makes the best cheesecake…and I’m not just saying that because it’s my mom,” Hurst says of his favorite sweet. The team at Twisted Burger is excited about the future of their company. With a new location opening October in Columbus, more people can experience their famous burgers. “We’re happy to be moving closer to our regulars at the Air Force Base and MUW,” Hurst says of the Columbus groups that eat out at Twisted Burger at least once a week. With a staff that’s always friendly and welcoming and burgers that are always grilled to perfection, put a little twist in your travels and make The Twisted Burger Co. your next pit stop in The Pines. edm

The Elvis is topped with smooth peanut butter, bacon, and fried bananas.

The Twisted Burger Company 410 E. Main St., West Point 662.494.0013

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 67



l l u F e c i v r e S story by Susan Marquez

photography by christina foto


ucked in neatly at the end of English Village shopping center in the heart of historic Belhaven in Jackson, Lou’s Full-Serv is dishing up fine dining in a casual atmosphere. The cuisine is Southern and French, influenced with a hint of Creole. Owner Louis LaRose describes the food as “eclectic.” According to LaRose, the main thing is serving good food–fresh food–with as much sourced locally as possible. “I simply want all of our guests to have a quality dining experience. In the restaurant business, you’re only as good as your last dish.” For years, the spot was Parkins Pharmacy, a gathering place for folks in the Belhaven neighborhood. It was a place where they got prescriptions filled, picked up their mail, and visited over an ice cream soda. Lou’s Full-Serv opened in September 2014 with a vintage industrial look, still sporting the original black and white linoleum floor, an homage to the past. The old parcel post window is the centerpiece for the restaurant’s bar. Because his mom said he had to have a job, LaRose began working in the restaurant business when he was in high school. His first restaurant job was bussing tables at Poet’s. While working at various restaurants around Jackson, LaRose worked his way up to waiting tables.“I worked at Bravo and liked it because it was a new restaurant. I learned so much from Dan (Blumenthal) including the idea that culinary school could be a viable career path.” Louis ended up at Johnson & Wales in Miami. “I picked Miami because it has great cuisine and it’s a


Belhaven Eatery Will Fill You Up While Serving You Well House-Cut Crispy Onion Rings with Smoked Tomato Remoulade

cultural melting pot, which appealed to me.” LaRose returned to Jackson in 1998, working as a chef at Bravo for 12 years. He left that position to try out the corporate food service world for while before getting back in the restaurant business when Derek Emerson opened Local 463 in Madison. “I was the chef de cuisine. While there I got really close to Derek, who encouraged me to follow my dream. Really, he gave me a hard kick in the butt, which is what I needed to do this.” It took a while for LaRose to pull the restaurant together. “I didn’t expect to be out of work for almost a year, but I believed in what I was doing, so I kept at it. Luckily, my wife Victoria supported my efforts, and now we’re in this together.” Victoria, a beautiful redhead with a sincere smile, works the front of the house. LaRose keeps the kitchen going in the back, although he sees all that’s happening in the dining room through the large window that gives a glimpse into the smooth-running kitchen. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 69


The Lou’s Full-Serv menu was carefully planned by LaRose, who designed it to please a variety of tastebuds as well as include items that can be reproduced again and again with consistency. LaRose says that Jacksonians have a sophisticated palate. “We are so close to New Orleans and other places that people can just drive a few hours to get an incredible meal. I want to provide that same experience right here at home.” Dishes like redfish and scallops are always popular in Jackson, and daily lunch specials are always a hit, from the red beans and rice served every Monday to crawfish étouffée on Fridays, each complete with a salad and tea. One of the surprise hits is a dessert–blueberry cake cobbler. “It sells three to one to our other desserts, which are


all delicious,” says LaRose. That, paired with our buttermilk ice cream, is something our guests can’t get enough of! LaRose says the heartbeat of the restaurant is the staff. “We have a great team. All but one person in the kitchen has been here since day one. And our wait staff does a great job of making everyone’s visit a good one.” “The clientele at Lou’s is varied. We serve a wide range of people, from professionals in the offices downtown, to medical staff from area hospitals and clinics, to folks from the neighborhood, who support us 100%.” The menu begins with “snacks,” small items to whet the appetite, including such items as Southern-style breadless crab cakes with green tomato pico, local sausage cracklins and chile


Tomato Remoulade

2 cups mayonnaise 2 tablespoons Creole mustard 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice 1 Roma tomato, smoked (roasted in oven until tender) and pureed in a food processor 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon fresh chopped parsley 1 tablespoon horseradish 1/2 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning Salt and pepper Combine all ingredients and adjust flavor with salt and pepper.

Grilled Salmon. Crawfish Grits. Roasted Corn & Tomato Sauce. Creole Tomato Salad

butter; and a crawfish fondue with crispy house toast. The entrée selection, or “main plates,” is varied, with such favorites as low oven boneless short ribs with mushroom risotto, and grilled salmon with crawfish grits, roasted corn and tomato sauce, and creole tomato salad. The salads are meals unto themselves, especially the seared beef and spinach salad, served with grilled portabella, spiced pecans, goat cheese, and candied bacon with a basil-balsamic dressing. No matter what you order, you’ll wish you had one of the hamburgers you’ll see coming out of the kitchen. No burger in Jackson can be any bigger, each served with a large knife stuck in the bun, because it’s simply too big to bite into. The “D-Luxe” burger comes with a sunny side up egg, pork belly,

lettuce, pickles, onion, and barbeque aioli. The “No7” burger is served with candied bacon, white cheddar cheese, grilled green tomatoes and red onions, with a smoked tomato-bacon aioli. Of course, Lou’s bar is stocked with a wine list worthy of the dishes served in the restaurant, as well as a great selection of craft beer and specialty cocktails. edm

Lou’s Full-Serv 904B E. Fortification St., Jackson 601.487.6359

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 71




FEELIN' BEACHY Find Fresh Eats on the Beach at The Blind Tiger in Bay St. Louis story and photography by julian brunt

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 73


The Blind Tiger sits in front of the new harbor in Bay St. Louis.

Every day menu items at The Blind Tiger include the Cheddar Burger and Loaded Cheese Fries. 74 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015



here has been an explosion, of late, of raised, beach front bars and restaurants on the Mississippi Gulf Coast. It is a most welcomed development and gives the Coast a much needed beach bar vibe that tourists and locals seem to love. One of the most popular is The Blind Tiger in Bay Saint Louis. It has a funky ramshackle feel to it, and if you didn’t know better you’d think it had been there for countless years. It is a pretty slick illusion, and makes for a great seaside-beach atmosphere. There are photos everywhere of fishermen and their catch, a roof tin, and lacquered bar that seats a full dozen, a few well placed skate boards, and, thankfully, not an overabundance of big screen TVs. This is a great place to come and visit with friends, eat, drink a cold beer, and chill. One of the best features is that there is no printed menu! What you might ask? That’s right, there are two chalk boards that advertise what can be had to eat. One is the regular menu, and the other is for the daily specials. The point is that this place focuses on fresh food, prepared daily, and you won’t even find a freezer on the premises. If it’s not fresh, you won’t find it here. On the day of this visit, the regular menu board listed only seven items, but if you are a seasoned foodie, this should be cause for joy. For a menu this small, every single item on it has got to be killer good. And it is! At the top of the list, just where it should be, is a great cheeseburger for just $9. Let me say this again, this is a great burger, and it is cooked exactly as you want it to be cooked. It is not loaded with fanciful accoutrements, just the basics, but done right. If you love burgers, order this one, if you just every once in a while like burgers, order this one, and if you think you just might like a burger, you know what you should do, right? There are also fish tacos on the menu, loaded cheese fries that look scrumptious, and

fresh cut fries that really are fresh cut, and cooked perfectly. On the daily special menu there was tuna dip (it is so good to see this old time favorite making a comeback), Cantina wings, and another burger, this one loaded simply with avocado and Swiss cheese. There were a few other items listed, but these were the standouts. The Blind Tiger is much more than a funky beach bar, it’s a fun place with great food, friendly people, locals and out-oftowners, too. Sit in the main room, the deck, or the back room and its upstairs bar, but wherever you sit, you are going to have a good time. Just make sure to get that burger! edm The Blind Tiger 119 N. Beach Blvd., Bay St. Louis 228.220.0162

Tuna Dip

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 75

{ featured festival }


Celebrate Fall with a “Day in the Country” F

story by susan marquez | photos courtesy of Chapel of the Cross

rances Annie Britton, mistress of the former Ingelside “fall country fair” feel to it that keeps folks coming back every year. Plantation in Madison County, and eldest daughter of Margaret In addition to the 63 egg cake, Day in the Country is also known Johnstone, who built the Chapel of the Cross in memory of for its assortment of baked breads that are sold in the Country her husband, probably never thought her glorious 63 egg cake recipe, Store. Chapel members, led by Dan Robertson, crank up the ovens developed in 1857, would be celebrated today at an annual event the Thursday before the event at 7:00 a.m. and they don’t turn them at the church. The cake, baked primarily for weddings, required a off until the wee hours of Saturday morning. Chapel members work specially-made octagonal tube pan approximately 14-1/2 inches wide in shifts to make hundreds of loaves of freshly baked breads with by four inches deep. According to the Day in the Country cookbook an assortment of flavors sure to appeal to everyone: Chapel White, published by the church in 2009, Frances eliminated the egg yolks, Wheat, Jalapeño Cheddar, Black Olive Mozzarella, Italian Herb, Sun“resulting in a white and elegant presentation so important to the dried Tomato/Cheddar along with some sweet flavors – Cinnamon/ genteel traditions of the time.” There were no mixing instructions, Raisin and Apple/Cinnamon. baking time or temperature included in the original The Country Store also features a large assortment recipe. Instead, the “English method” of baking of baked goods for snacking and taking home, was suggested. Britton entered the cake in the including beautiful cakes and pies (sold first Mississippi State Fair and won the first whole and by the slice), cookies, brownies, prize. cupcakes, breakfast breads, pralines, Fast forward to this fall, when snack mix, and much more. A wide the Chapel of the Cross will variety of canned goods including present its 36th annual Day in candied jalapeños, Christmas jam, the Country. The Chapel was Cajun sweet pickles, Bottled Hell originally built in the 1800s and hot sauce, fig preserves, vanilla consecrated in 1852. Over the pear honey, apple butter, jalapeño next half century, the church pepper jelly, blueberry jam, met with a slow decline. In 1971, peach preserves, chili sauce, and the Chapel was placed on the strawberry jelly. “We encourage National Register of Historic folks to come by, have a taste, Places and a major restoration and choose your favorites,” said of the Chapel structure ensued. Brian Martin, chairman of this A Day in the Country was started year’s event. “Those wanting to try in 1979 by Chapel members to help their hand at making some of these with the restoration. The surrounding goodies for themselves can purchase community was invited to come and the award-winning cookbook – Day in the spend a “Day in the Country.” Traditionally Country filled with great recipes, 169 color held on the first Saturday of October, the event is photographs, and stories about the Chapel’s 63 Egg Cake evocative of both church “sociables” and rural country colorful history.” fairs from gentler, unruffled times. There’s also a booth for fresh roasted corn on the cob and boiled Early on, event organizers wanted Britton’s famous cake to be peanuts, a snack shack featuring cotton candy, nachos, popcorn, a part of the event. There were problems in the first attempts at the snow cones, and other goodies, and the “big” food booth featuring modern day version of the cake. The cakes were heavy and quite red beans and rice, fresh hot-off-the-grill burgers and hot dogs, and dense. A member of the chapel researched the differences in the barbecue. process of milling flour in 1857 and that of the 1970s, and using a While it’s clear that those attending the event will not go hungry, small piece of the original baking pan, a new pan was constructed. A other favorites at the Day in the Country include a field full of arts piece of the original pan and Britton’s prizes, a sterling silver napkin and crafts vendors for early Christmas shopping, a silent auction, ring and the blue ribbon, are treasured heirlooms for a present day Kid’s Country featuring fun activities for the kids including a petting member of the chapel and direct descendant of the Johnstone family. zoo, space jumps, hayrides, face and pumpkin painting, and carnival The 63 Egg Cake is sold by the slice while it lasts (which usually games. A Mississippi Track Club-sanctioned 5k walk/race and kid’s isn’t very long). But to answer the demand, Chapel members also fun run kicks off the morning. The Chapel Attic rummage sale is bake many 11 Egg Cakes (a scaled down version of the original) that always popular, as are the Chapel and Cemetery tours throughout are for sale. the day. Wine 101/Wine Tasting classes will be held throughout the Activities have been added to Day in the Country over the years, afternoon. Live music plays in the background throughout the day. making it a fall festival that truly has something for everyone. Food At the end of the day, the Chapel wraps everything up with lovers, kids (both young and old), runners/walkers, music-lovers, Eucharist and everyone is invited. For more information on Day in bargain hunters, and arts & crafts lovers can all find something at the the Country at Chapel of the Cross in Madison County, visit www. event. Many folks come just to spend a day on the beautiful church edm grounds. Although the event has grown over the years, it still has that eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 77

{ calendar }

Fill Your Plate

October 2-3 Columbus Roast N Boast BBQ Festival & Competition The Roast N Boast BBQ Festival and BBQ Competition is a non-profit event benefiting children with cancer. Over $13,000 in prizes are awarded in several categories. Sample and vote for World Class BBQ at the people’s choice tent, enjoy live bands Friday night, food vendors, golf tournament and auction. Visit or call 662549-5054 for more information. •••

October/November 2015

Food Festivals & Events

October 3-4 Collins - Mississippi Peanut Festival Mitchell Farms hosts the annual Mississippi Peanut Festival on their farm in Collins. The festival will include Arts & Crafts Exhibitors, Antiques, Unique Children's Clothes, Jewelry, Yard Art, and Lots of Food. The peanut festival kicks off the farm’s Pumpkin Patch Fun Fall Festivities. Call 601-6060762 for details of scheduled events or visit www. •••

October 9-10 Hattiesburg - Downtown BBQ Showdown October 3 Madison - Day in the Country Day in the Country is a community festival held on the grounds of Chapel of the Cross each first Saturday in October. It draws more than 10,000 visitors annually with families enjoying food, music, artisans, crafts, tours of the Chapel, Barbecue CookOff, the famous 63-Egg Cake and children’s games and rides. This year’s Day in the Country will be held on October 3rd. For more information, visit www. or call 601-856-2593.


The 4th Annual Downtown BBQ Showdown will be held on Friday and Saturday, October 9 & 10 at Walthall Park in Hattiesburg. The event is sanctioned by the Kansas City BBQ Society (KCBS) and draws BBQ Teams from all over the Southeast to participate. This year, the event will benefit the Edwards Street Mission in Hattiesburg. As part of the 250KCBS Meals Mission, Edwards Street Mission will be provided with Boston butts prepared by participating teams. Get a taste of delicious BBQ along with a kids zone and live music. For more information, visit or call 601-270-5424.

October 9-10 Cleveland - Octoberfest This year marks the 33rd Octoberfest held in downtown Cleveland. This MBN sanctioned barbecue competition also includes two days of live music, over 100 arts and craft vendors, Southern cuisine, children’s area, and much more. For more information, call 662.843.2712, or visit www. •••

October 29 Biloxi - Taste of South Mississippi Taste of South Mississippi lets guests explore The Salvation Army Ray and Joan Kroc Community Center while dining on heavy hors d’oeuvres from the best restaurants South Mississippi has to offer. Guests will also enjoy live music and bidding on silent auction items. All proceeds go directly to The Salvation Army’s youth programs. Tickets to Taste of South Mississippi are $30 each. Purchase tickets by calling 228-207-1228, or visit The Salvation Army Kroc Center in Biloxi or Area Command office in Gulfport. •••

October 15-17 Greenville - Delta Hot Tamale Festival The Delta Hot Tamale Festival is celebrating its third year with more events, more music and more of those famous Delta Hot Tamales! The Delta Hot Tamale is perhaps the biggest culinary contribution to come from this area. Visitors from around the world will gather with local residents in Greenville to enjoy this delicious food. This three day celebration includes everything from the Frank Carlton Hot Tamale Cooking Contest, the crowning of Miss Hot Tamale, a hot tamale Eating Contest, book signings by a number of well-known writers, a celebrity chefs’ Hot Tamale Cook-off, hot tamale storytelling, a parade, arts and crafts, food symposium, three stages featuring a variety of home-grown Delta musicians, and plenty of hot tamales to whet your appetite. Bring your lawn chairs and the entire family to Stein Mart Square in Downtown Greenville for a one-of-a-kind experience.

November 12 Oxford - Square Toast for Scholarships Square Toast for Scholarships is a walking food + wine tasting event which is spread across restaurants and retail businesses on the Historic Oxford Square. On the night of the event, the area around the Square transforms into one large, varied restaurant. Eventgoers check in at the Lyric Theatre to receive their wine glass and a map of participating venues. Square Toast for Scholarships is an event produced by the Department of Nutrition and Hospitality Management at the School of Applied Sciences of The University of Mississippi. For more information, visit or call 662-915-2621.

To have your food festival or culinary event included in future issues, please contact us at info@eatdrinkmississippi. com. All submissions are subject to editor's approval. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 79

Advertisers Index

Recipe Index

Christina Foto, 6 County Seat, 4 Downtown BBQ Showdown, 2 Etta B Pottery, 8 Greater Jackson Chamber Partnership, 4 Lou’s Full-Serv, 6 Mangia Bene, 11 Mississippi Children’s Museum, 8 Sanderson Farms, Back Cover Sew Smocking Cute, 11 The Kitchen Table, 3 The Manship, 3 Thurman's Landscaping, 81

Amalgamation Cake, 53 Biloxi-Style Shrimp and Grits, 39 Broccoli Cheese Casserole, 48 Brussels Sprouts Slaw, 23 Candy Corn Pudding, 17 Collard Kimchi, 19 Corn Light Bread, 53 Cream Cheese Pound Cake, 28 Dumplings, 80 Freaky French Toast, 17 Fresh Apple Cake, 8 Ginger Cookies, 48

continued from page 24

Green Turtle Patties, 52


Honey Mustard Vinaigrette, 42 Old School Ham Bone Beans, 25

©From the Kitchen of Deep South Dish

Orange Breakfast Ring, 49

3 tablespoons of vegetable shortening 1-1/2 cups of self-rising flour 1/2 cup buttermilk or milk 1/4 cup of reserved ham stock

Queen of Puddings, 53 Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta and Balsamic Vinegar, 31 Smoked Asian Pork Shoulder, 22 Smoky Turkey Dip, 45 Spiced Apple Cake with Orange Glaze, 13 Spicy Ginger Lemongrass Chicken, 23 Tomato Remoulade, 71 Turkey Club Tossed Salad, 42 White Cheddar Mashed Potato and Turkey Cakes, 41

Set aside an additional 1/4 cup of the ham stock. Mix together dumpling ingredients until they form a soft dough. When beans are done, bring soup to a rolling boil. Using a small spoon, scoop out and drop into boiling broth and cover immediately so that the dumplings begin to steam; reduce to a low simmer and cook about 10 minutes before checking. Don’t overcook or dumplings will be dense and hard.

STORE INFORMATION from page 14-15

Bed Bath and Beyond Mississippi locations - Flowood, Gulfport, Hattiesburg, Jackson, Meridian, Southaven, Tupelo

Pier 1 Imports Mississippi locations - Flowood, Gulfport, Hattiesburg, Ridgeland, Southaven, Tupelo

Belk Mississippi locations - Biloxi, Columbus, Corinth, Flowood, Gautier, Greenville, Gulfport, Hattiesburg, Laurel, McComb, Meridian, Natchez, Oxford, Ridgeland, Tupelo, Vicksburg

The Kitchen Table 3720 Hardy St., Suite 3 Hattiesburg, MS 39402 601.261.2224

Etsy - The Loose Goose

Williams-Sonoma 1000 Highland Colony Pkwy. Ridgeland, MS 39157 601.898.8882

Kikkerland 80 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015

coming to terms

Of THEKitchen IN



with julian brunt

Mortadella Mortadella is considered by many Italians to be the finest sausage in Italy. It is pork based, is well larder (as much as 15 %), has a smooth texture, and is not granular at all like salami. Its flavorings include myrtle berries, coriander, black pepper, anise, and pistachios, which gives the sausage its distinctive speckled appearance when sliced. This delicious sausage has been made in Italy for at least 500 years. To the chagrin of the Italians, Americans started making a very cheap knock-off version, and called it after its city of origin, Bologna, and so Americans’ love/hate relationship with baloney began. This product compares in no way with Mortadella, and may have reached its zenith when pit masters smoked it and served it as a sandwich. edm

Thurman’s Landscaping Landscaping • Irrigation Waterfalls • Lighting Outdoor Kitchens & Patios Iron & Brick Work

601.270.8512 eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 81

Some Things Aren’t Always What They Say They Are BY JAY REED


t is fall. Autumn. The time of the harvest. This could well be my favorite time of year in Mississippi. The summer temperatures have been curbed; I can still wear shorts from time to time, but I don’t have to mow the yard anymore. We are well into football season, but no matter how your team is doing there is still time to turn it around (one way or the other.) And the grocery stores are packed to the gills with everevolving limited edition holiday flavors. Absolutely an awesome few months – but I have a bone or two to pick. Let’s tackle football season first. (See what I did there?) Mississippi is unquestionably a football state, a designation rivaled only by our reputation as the hospitality state. Put the two together and what does that mean? It means we have perfected the art of tailgating. Although it is technically possible to tailgate at an event not associated with football, I’m not sure I’ve ever seen it. Something else I’ve never seen is a bouncer at the corner of a tent asking for ID. In fact, most tailgaters are just the opposite, the epitome of hospitality, inviting all who walk by to grab something to eat and sit a spell. But where does one sit at these weekly fall football feasts? Camp chairs? Blankets of bright school colors? The better question (and that little bone I’m picking) has to do with where we are NOT sitting, and

that is...on a tailgate. I can’t speak for all the universities in the state, but the ones I have visited on game days are all about tents. In fact, for many years there has been nary an actual pickup truck in sight, much less one with the tailgate lowered to hold the bounty of a pigskin picnic. Even golf carts are getting scarce in those environs. But calling it a “tent-gate” sounds more like an election year scandal than a culinary celebration of team spirit. I am not on a campaign to change the name, because the history is certainly there. I am not against tailgates themselves, and I am certainly not against eating on them. In fact, when it’s summertime and snow cones are in season, there’s no better place to enjoy one than sitting on a tailgate. I guess I just have too much time to think. Which brings me to my next little rant. Apparently I’m not the only one in the food world who has pondered way too long . I believe it may be time for the Pumpkin Spice Committee to disband. Call it a day, people. You have taken us beyond “enough” and sailed headlong into “are you serious?” In the interest of full disclosure, however, I need to make a confession. In the first few years when pumpkin spice mania was in its infancy, I was not only a victim of the craze, I was an advocate (if not a dealer.) A pumpkin spice whoopie pie was my gateway drug, and it was



{ till we eat again }

Jay Reed, a graduate of Ole Miss, lives in Starkville where he is a pharmacist by day and a freelance food writer by day off. He is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance and writes "Eats One Ate," a weekly column in the Starkville Daily News.

all downhill from there. I couldn’t wait until the next item boasting this flavor would pop up in the grocery. I bought everything I saw, from the Blue Bell Spiced Pumpkin Pecan ice cream that happened to be served at the pharmacy where I worked, to the seasonal Pumpkin Spice donuts at Krispy Kreme. I ordered Denny’s Pumpkin Spiced Pancakes and washed them down with Pumpkin Spiced Coffee. And when I wasn’t out, I bought Pumpkin Spice Coffee Creamer for the home – The Wife is quite fond of it still. The Pumpkin Spice Golden Oreos never made it to our town, but I kept my eye out for them. Now, I have developed a condition known as Pumpkin Spice Fatigue. And last spring, on the clearance rack at my local grocery, I discovered I was not alone. Reduced for quick sale: pumpkin pie bark, pumpkin spice caramel dip, pumpkin pie pretzels, and a pumpkin spice peanut bar. Seriously. But I don’t really think it’s over. I fully expect to see Franken-Pumpkin cereal, Pumpkin Spice Snapple, Pumpkin-Powered Mountain Dew, and when humans have had all they can take: Alpo-mpkin for dogs. When you get right down to it, there’s a truth issue here. Pumpkin spice is a blend of spices. It doesn’t even taste like pumpkin. It’s not even what it says it is. Kinda’ like tailgating. edm

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October November 2015  

Our October/November 2015 issue features flavors of fall, recipes for transforming leftover Thanksgiving turkey, the Mississippi Community C...

October November 2015  

Our October/November 2015 issue features flavors of fall, recipes for transforming leftover Thanksgiving turkey, the Mississippi Community C...