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The Magazine for Japanese Food Professionals Worldwide

July 2019 Vol. 29 No.248 $5.00 www.alljapannews.com

“ 和食 ” ユネスコ無形文化遺産登録 祝! 2013年 Japanese Cuisine Designated intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO

Chef Andy Matsuda trained professional sushi chefs for 17 years. He contributed to the popularization of Japanese cuisine and culinary traditions worldwide. -Appointed as “Japanese Cuisine Goodwill Ambassador” -

寿司シェフを育てて17 年。 日本食・食文化の普及に尽力 -日本食普及の親善大使に任命 -

Popular with fresh made Soba noodles 打ち立て蕎麦で人気 ©Soba Izakaya Minami

Los Angeles, CA Permit No. 32641

PRSRT STD U.S. Postage PAID


k with NINBEN! Let's coo

y Let's traste ! t d an

Popular izakaya recipes with

Shiro Dashi

You can make popular izakaya recipes easily with our "Shiro Dashi "!

NINBEN "Shiro Dashi" is a light colored seasoning soy sauce. Ideal for all sorts of Japanese dishes.

白だしで簡単居酒屋メニュー!

Agedashi Tofu

豆揚 腐げ だ し

THE INGREDIENTS / 2 SERVINGS 2 tbsp NINBEN "Shiro Dashi" 150ml Water Silk tofu ・1block ・Proper amount of potato starch ・Ingredients of your choice[This time, eggplant and cod] ・Proper amount of grated ginger, grated daikon raddish, and green onion. ・Proper amount of vegetable oil

大さじ2 にんべん白だし 水 150ml 絹豆腐 ・1丁 片栗粉 ・適量 タラの切り身) ・適量 お好みの具材(今回は、茄子、 ・適量 おろししょうが、大根おろし、万能ねぎ 揚げ油 ・適量

METHOD 1. Drain the tofu and cut it into 6 pieces. 豆腐を水切りし、6等分に切る。 2. Coat the tofu with potato starch and deep fry until they turn light brown and crispy. [Deep fry eggplant, and coat the cod with potato starch and deep fry it.]

豆腐に片栗粉をまぶし、熱した揚げ油でからりと揚げる。 (茄子は素揚げ、タラは片栗粉をまぶして、揚げる。)

3. In a pot, mix ★ and warm it. 鍋に★を合わせ温める。 4. Place the tofu in a serving bowl and gently pour ★ . Garnish with grated ginger, grated daikon, and green onion. Done!

器に豆腐やお好みの具材を盛り、③をかけて、大根おろし・おろししょうが・万能ねぎを散らす。出来上がり!

茶だ 漬し け

Dashi Chazuke THE INGREDIENTS / 2 SERVINGS 1 tbsp NINBEN "Shiro Dashi" 200ml Water White cooked rice ・1bowl ・Ingredients of your choice[Salted baked salmon, sashimi, etc.] ・Proper amount of topping [Nori[seaweed], shiso[japanese basil], sesame, wasabi, etc.]

にんべん白だし 大さじ1 水 200ml 白ご飯 ・1杯 お好みの具材(今回は、焼き鮭) ・適量 ・適量 お好みのトッピング (刻みのり、大葉、胡麻、わさびなど)

METHOD 1. In a pot, mix ★ and warm it. 鍋に★を合わせ温める。 2. Place the white cooked rice in a bowl and garnish with your favorite toppings. 器に白ご飯を盛り、お好みの具材・ トッピングをのせる。

3. Gently pour ★ on 2. Done! ②に★をかける。出来上がり!


CONTENTS

July 2019 Vol. 29, No. 248

(12ページ部分が中国語、韓国語に翻訳されてます。 よければご意見ください。alljapannews@gmail.comまでお願いします)

(12頁部分被翻譯成中文。如果可以的話,請給我們意見。請聯繫alljapannews@gmail.com) (12 페이지 부분이 한국어로 번역되어 있습니다. 괜찮으시다면 alljapannews@gmail.com으로 연락주시기 바랍니다.)

16 Sake Shochu Beer Institute of America Japanese Sake Labels: The Face of Japanese Sake 米国酒焼酎麦酒研究所 / 日本酒のラベル: ラベルは日本酒の顔

17 Tokyo Jizake Strolling Rice-planting in Niigata Prefecture 東京地酒散歩 新潟田植え編

SPECIAL INTERVIEW

08 Chef Andy Matsuda trained professional sushi chefs for 17 years. He contributed to the popularization of Japanese cuisine and culinary traditions worldwide. -Appointed as “Japanese Cuisine Goodwill Ambassador” 寿司シェフを育てて17年。 日本食・食文化の普及に尽力 -日本食普及の親善大使に任命-

SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB

18 “How to Create a One-Of-A-Kind Izakaya Restaurant, Creating an Organization Like None Other” as Revealed by 22 Founders 社長22人が明かす「オンリーワンの店づくり、 わが社ならではの組織づくり」

20 Local Gourmet Curry: Reflecting the Backbone of Regional Endeaxors 地域の魅力を伝えるご当地カレー

22 A Trade Fair to Popularize Japanese Cuisine Worldwide -“2019 Sake Expo & Food Show Los Angeles” organized by JFC International, Inc.-

焼酎の可能性

日本食を世界に広げるための見本市  -JFCインターナショナル社主催 酒エキスポ& フードショー2019開催-

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28

酒豪大陸141:松森杜氏、岩手県卓越技能者認定

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12

The possibilities of Shochu

California Sake Challenge 141: Master Sake Brewer Junji Matsumori recognized as a Contemporary Master Craftsman of Iwate

NEWS / TREND

旨いお燗を作るための検証

CULINARY PROFESSIONAL Popular with fresh made Soba noodles

打ち立て蕎麦で人気

“Washoku Night” -Experiencing the charm of washoku that spreads to the world-

26 An innovative concept which never existed in New York before. “ZAUO” where you can eat the fish you have just caught

素和食ナイト開催 -世界に広がる和食の魅力を体験-

寿これまでニューヨークになかった革新的なコンセプト 自分で釣った魚を食べられる『ZAUO』

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15

What terms describe suitable temperatures to consume sake? 飲用温度の表現には、どのようなものがあるのか

6

Validation to Prepare Delicious Hot Sake

July 2019

www.alljapannews.com

29

A GROBAL CHALLENGE They Call Me “Mr. Tofu”

豆腐バカ世界に挑む

All Japan News, Inc. 1467 W. 178th Street. Suite 201 Gardena, CA 90248 Tel: (213) 680-0011 Fax: (213) 680-0020 E-mail: AllJapanNews@gmail.com ©2019 All Japan News Inc. All rights reserved.

Publisher All Japan News Inc Managing Editor David Kudo Editor-in-Chief Hiroshi Kawabata Designer Ritsuko Lynch Contributing Writers Keiko Fukuda, Ayako Ito Kosuke Kuji, Yasuo Kumoda Yuji Matsumoto, Aya Ota Elli Sekine, Ryuji Takahashi Special Thanks to JETRO / JETAASC

We’re Member of Japan Business Association, Japanese Chamber of Commerce of Southern California, Hollywood Chamber of Commerce, Japanese Restaurant Association of America and Supporters Conference for WASHOKU.

ジャパニーズ・レストランニュース 北米には 25,000 店を越す日本食レス トランがあります。その勢いは和食が ユネスコ無形文化遺産に登録されたこ ともありさらに伸びています。本誌は この日本食レストラン業界にスポット をあて、何が流行っているのか、また 繁盛店の紹介を通し、繁盛店のオペ レーションや時代を生き抜くヒントを 紹介します。最新の話題店舗や人気商 品などを紹介し、日本食レストランの 繁盛を応援します。また、アメリカの 最新の食品衛生管理に関する情報など も提供し業界の発展に寄与します。

Mission of Japanese Restaurant News In North America, over 25,000 Japanese restaurants are in business. This momentum is increasing even more since Japanese cuisine was recognized by UNESCO as one of the world’s intangible cultural heritages. This magazine spotlights the Japanese restaurant industry to introduce the latest trends and successful restaurants along with their operations to provide hints on how to survive the competitive restaurant industry. Further, this magazine introduces the latest restaurants garnering attention and popular products, along with the prosperity of Japanese restaurants. Lastly, this magazine also introduces the latest information on food sanitation and management to contribute to the development of the Japanese restaurant industry as a whole.


2019 FOOD EVENT

CALENDAR JUNE

Summer Fancy Food Show 6/23 -25 Javits Center, New York www.specialityfood.com The Summer Fancy Food Show is the largest specialty food industry event in North America, and the premier showcase for industry innovation. We are pleased to announce new dates for the 2019 Show – Sunday, June 23 through Tuesday, June 25. That puts us well before the Fourth of July holiday and other New York City summer celebrations. Join us and experience more new and exciting events, programs, and exhibitors than ever before. This is the place to see and taste the future of food.

JULY

Slow Food Nations 7/19-21 Denver, Colorado www.slowfoodnations.org Get ready to experience Slow Food Nations, an international food festival hosted by Slow Food USA in Denver, Colorado from July 19-21! Connect with farmers, foodies and families over three days packed with events, pop-ups, food and fun centered around our 2019 festival theme, Where Tradition Meets

Innovation. With free and open festival grounds full of delicious and interactive activities as well as ticketed events, there’s something at Slow Food Nations for everyone.

AUGUST

Western Food Service and Hospitality Expo 8/25-27 Los Angeles Convention Center, California www.westernfoodexpo.com The Western Foodservice & Hospitality Expo is the only comprehensive industry event devoted to the Western U.S. restaurant, foodservice and hospitality market. The Show will provide you with a strategic forum to demonstrate your food products, technology and equipment as well as discuss service solutions with current customers and new prospects. The Western Foodservice & Hospitality Expo is sponsored by the California Restaurant Association, and produced and managed by Reed Exhibitions, the global leader in trade show management.

Healthy Food ExpoWest & Coffee Fest 8/25-27 As restaurant and foodservice guests increasingly demand more healthful options, operators need to respond to consumer interest and demand with healthy menu items, nutritional information, food safety and preparation techniques. Healthy Food Expo has been established to serve that demand. A celebration of healthy food products and ingredients, Healthy Food Expo will include an exhibit hall, conference and education, and special events including culinary demonstrations.

The exhibit hall will be comprised of the latest healthy food and beverage products, services and tools. Healthy Food Expo West will be held in conjunction with the Western Foodservice & Hospitality Expo and Coffee Fest

solutions to improve business practices and broaden industry knowledge, and to network with your industry peers.

Florida Restaurant & Lodging Show 9/15-16

SEPTEMBER Biofach America 9/12-14 Baltimore Convention Center Baltimore, Maryland www.biofach-america.com The atmosphere at BIOFACH AMERICA - ALL THINGS ORGANIC is very special. It is an important business event, an emotional event for the organic sector, and both a get-together and an opportunity for positioning. THE most important platform for organic products at the US east coast. This is where supply meets demand – for both visitors and the exhibiting companies. Manufacturers present their company and products to the whole community and observe as well as analyse the market and position themselves for the competition at the same time.

Orange County Convention Center. Orlando, Florida www.flrestaurandlodgingshow.com The Florida Restaurant & Lodging Show is the only comprehensive industry event devoted to the Southeast U.S. restaurant, foodservice and hospitality market. The Show will provide you with a strategic forum to demonstrate your food products, technology and equipment as well as discuss service solutions with current customers and new prospects. The Florida Restaurant & Lodging Show is sponsored by the Florida Restaurant & Lodging Association, and produced and managed by Reed Exhibitions, the global leader in trade show management.

OCTOBER

Process Expo 2019 - The Global Food Equipment & Technology Show 10/8-11

Natural Products Expo East 9/12-14 Baltimore Convention Center Baltimore, Maryland www.expoeast.com Join the East Coast's Largest Natural, Organic, and Healthy Products Business Community. Natural Products Expo East education and events provide opportunities to learn and explore new ideas, industry trends and practical

McCormick Place, Chicago, Illinois PROCESS EXPO, the global food equipment and technology show,® represents the pinnacle of food technology bringing together the world's most successful food and beverage processors, packaging professionals, equipment manufacturers, and leaders in the field of academia.

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 248

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SPECIAL INTERVIEW

By Kanako Chitose

Chef Andy Matsuda trained professional sushi chefs for 17 years. He contributed to the popularization of Japanese cuisine and culinary traditions worldwide. -Appointed as “Japanese Cuisine Goodwill Ambassador” -

寿司シェフを育てて 17 年。日本食・食文化の普及に尽力 - 日本食普及の親善大使に任命 -

R

ecognized as the only culinary institute in California certified to train professional sushi chefs, Chef Andy Matsuda of the Sushi Chef Institute was appointed “Japanese Cuisine Goodwill Ambassador” by Japan’s Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries on March 25, a role established by the ministry in 2015 to further popularize Japanese cuisine and culinary traditions in foreign markets. Chef Matsuda will introduce Japanese cuisine and culinary traditions to the media, give professional culinary advice, and join in the ministry’s efforts to popularize Japanese cuisine worldwide. We asked Chef Matsuda, 1 of the 17 nominees selected from 9 countries total including Japan, about his ambitions and prospects. “I’d like to tackle the next phase in introducing sushi and Japanese cuisine to non-Japanese nationals, and train new chefs to learn and understand Japanese cuisine to pass on these traditions. Students coming from overseas encounter challenges to acquire a VISA and associated costs, so I’d like to consider heading out to these nations myself in the future. Also, there is a significant shortage of Japanese chefs to service contracted cruises and hotels. I think one of my responsibilities is to create an environment that offers an opportunity to people from developing nations to train and earn sufficient income to achieve a comfortable living. I look forward to instructing the correct ways to serve and consume Japanese cuisine. On the other hand, I’ve also experienced culture shock. The dietary culture is very different across regions, so are hygienic and sanitary management practices. In Japan, these management practices are taught over 5 to 10 years, while foreign nationals seem to think they can learn them all

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in a week. Reaching a common understanding for these differences will take time.” The Sushi Chef Institute provides direct instructions by Chef Andy Matsuda with a career of over 40 years in preparing and instructing sushi and Japanese cuisine, attracting students wanting to learn authentic sushi preparation from worldwide, with over 1,500 sushi chefs graduated to date since 2002. The institute offers small class sizes up to 10 students per class maximum to thoroughly train chefs over a 2-month period. Students learn how to prepare nigiri sushi, use a knife, how to fillet fish, and other culinary skills

pertaining to sushi preparation with heavy emphasis on the basics. “We train sushi chefs because the demand is the highest. However, we also teach how to prepare a wide range of basic appetizers, grilled dishes, and simmered, fried and steamed dishes. Japanese cuisine consists of 5 flavors, 5 colors, and 5 preparation methods to taste the 5 flavors with all 5 of your senses, commonly referred to as the ‘Five Flavors/Five Colors/Five Preparation Methods.’ This concept is very important to further one’s understanding of

Japanese cuisine, as I teach my students about Japanese culinary traditions that values seasonal flavors from seasonal food ingredients presented with a seasonal feel. I want my students to understand the Japanese culture. I teach sushi preparation by designating the right hand for holding the knife, the left hand for


カとして認定されているスシ・シェ

 日本を含む世界9か国から選ばれた 17 名の1人となった松田さんに抱負や 今後の展望などを伺った。 「今まで以上に気持ちを新たにこれから も寿司・和食を日本人以外の人にも教え、

知ってもらい、理解してもらうための育 成、日本食の伝承を続けていきたいです。 海外から習いに来るにはビザの問題やそ れなりの費用がかかりますから、今後は もっと私たちが外に出て行くことも考え ています。また今、契約で仕事をしてい ますクルーズやホテルでの日本食シェフ 達はまったく人材が足りていません。途 上国の人たちを教育することによって良 い生活ができ、収入を得られるような環 境を作ることも私たちの役割の一つだと 思っています。また、正しい日本食品の 利用の仕方などを教えていきたいです。 しかし、これまで何度となくカルチャー ショックも受けてきました。食文化が全 く違いますし、保健衛生など衛生管理の 常 識 も 違 い ま す。 日 本 で は 5 年、10 年 と年月をかけて学ぶものですが、海外の

Japanese culinary skills and knowledge, and holding both to equal importance in training to become a Japanese chef. Some professionals don’t understand the essence of Japanese cuisine, yet demand high salaries like superstars, and this is an area I think we can improve on.” Chef Matsuda explained the importance of passing on Japanese culinary traditions while evolving according to the local region and times. “In Japan, sushi is generally understood to be the Edo-style nigiri (hand-pressed) sushi, while other regions outside of Tokyo serves pressed sushi, sushi rolls, and ball-shaped sushi, indicative of how sushi evolved in various regions over time. Although the practice of preparing sushi from rice with nori (dried seaweed) and wasabi hasn’t changed, California (a region that produces avocado) wraps avocado inside their sushi, or tempura in areas where people can’t eat raw fish, also indicative of how sushi has evolved

according to local supply and demand. In today’s age where sushi is consumed worldwide, sushi is expanding into cities even where fish is not consumed, so I think furthering understanding of the latest Japanese sushi preparation and consumption around the world will take time.” Ways to promote Japanese cuisine is also changing, thanks to the development of social networks (SNS). “My instagram account currently has over 60,000 followers, where people can view my classes around the world. In that sense, I think its important to dig deep into the identity of Japanese food ingredients once again, and introduce their advantages on SNS to be viewed by consumers worldwide. I think having food producers and manufacturers each introduce and promote their products on SNS to the world will change the promotion to be more CustomerTo-Customer (C2C). I want us all to promote the benefits of Japanese cuisine to consumers worldwide.”

リフォルニア州唯一の寿司学校

フ・インスティチュートを経営するアン ディー松田さんが、今年3月 25 日に農 林水産省から「日本食普及の親善大使」 に任命された。この制度は海外における 日本食・食文化の普及を更に進めること を目的に農林水産省が 2015 年に設立さ れたもの。メディア等での日本食・食文 化の発信やプロの視点に立った助言、農 林水産省が実施する普及事業への協力な どが主な活動だ。

人は1週間で全てを学べると考えている 人も多いので、そういった部分でも理解 してもらうには時間がかかります」  40 年以上の和食・寿司のキャリアを 持つ松田さんが直接指導するスシ・シェ フ・インスティチュートには、本格的に 寿司を学びたいという生徒が世界中から 集 ま り、2002 年 の 開 校 以 来 1,500 人 を 超える寿司職人を輩出している。授業は 最大 10 人の少人数制による徹底した2 カ月間の育成プログラム。生徒たちは寿 司の握り方のみならず、包丁の扱いから 魚のさばき方、基本を重視した寿司の技 術を学んでいる。 「需要が一番多いので寿司職人を育成し ていますが、前菜、焼き物、煮物、揚げ 物や蒸し物なども浅く広く学びます。日 本食には5つの味と色、そして5つの調 理方法と感覚で味わう「五味五色五法」 というものがあって大切にされており、 季節感やその時の旬な食材など大切な食 文化を理解してもらいたいと思っていま す。私の教えとして、寿司技術は包丁を 使う右手。左手は和食の技術、知識なの でその両方持つことで日本的な職人にな ります。日本食の食文化の本質を知らず にスーパースター気取りで高給を要求す るような人もいますが、そこはもっと改 善していかなければと思います」   日本食の伝統は継承しながらもその土 地や時代に合わせて変化していくことは

必然だと話します。 「日本では寿司と言えば江戸前の握り寿 司が一般的ですが、東京以外の地域では 押し寿司、巻き寿司、手毬寿司なども あって日本の寿司文化も変化してきたわ けで、のり、わさび、米を使う基本はずっ と変わりませんが、アボカドの産地カリ フォルニアではアボカドを巻いたり、生 ものが食べられない地域ではてんぷらを 巻いたりと需要と供給で変化し、進化し ていくものです。世界中に寿司市場が広 がった今、魚を食べる文化がない都市に も寿司が入っていくわけですから、日本 の寿司の現状が世界中に理解されるには 時間がかかると感じます」  ソーシャルネットワーク(SNS)の発 達で日本食のプロモーション方法も変化 が求められています。 「私のインスタグラムは6万人を超える フォロワーがいて、世界中の人が私の授 業内容を見ることができます。その意味 でも日本の食材のアイデンティティをも う1度掘り下げて再認識し、良い部分を SNS で発信して世界の消費者に見ても らうことが大切です。生産者やメーカー さんが直接自分たちの作っている商品を SNS で世界中の人に PR することで C2C (Consumer To Consumer)流通のシス テムも変わってくると思います。もっと もっと日本食の良い面を消費者に直接ア ピールして欲しいです」

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 248

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NEWS TRENDS

By Elli Sekine

“Washoku Night”

-Experiencing the charm of washoku that spreads to the world- 世界に広がる和食の魅力を体験 -

On

May 2, “Washoku Night” was held gorgeously at the Sheraton Hotel (in Palo Alto) hosted by Nikkei Inc. with a cooperation of ANA Holdings Inc., Kikkoman, and ITO EN. This event was part of the third Geo Economic Strategy Forum,

and the main purpose was to make the tradition of beauty and washoku culture that symbolizes the changes of seasons, flourish in the US, and the program was escalated with the support from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry

and Fisheries. At the event, there was a cocktail corner serving cocktails using shochu, awamori, and Japanese sake, a full-fledged sushi corner with a chef from “Sushi Ran” demonstrating his skills, dishes cooked with Californian organic ingredients by “Delica”, etc., and people were enjoying a wide variety of washoku as they were talking. ITO EN set up a temporary tea house, and demonstrated traditional matcha serving rituals. At the beginning of the program held in the Ball Room, Masahisa Sato, Parliamentary Vice-Minister for Foreign Affairs Member, the House of

先催、ANA ホールディングス、キッ

日 5 月 2 日、 ニ ッ ケ イ イ ン ク 主

コーマン 、伊藤園が協賛した「和食ナ イト」がシェラトンホテル(パラアルト 市)で華やかに開催された。第3回 Geo Economic Strategy Forum の一環とな る同イベントは、趣旨として日本食の伝 統、美しさ、季節の移り変わりを象徴と した和食文化を米国で繁栄させる目的 で、外務省、農林水産省が後援しプログ ラムを盛り上げた。会場では、焼酎、泡 盛や日本酒を使ったカクテルコーナー、 「すし蘭」からシェフが腕を振るう本格 的寿司コーナーや「Delica」からカリフォ ルニアオーガニック食材で調理したお惣 菜が並び、種類豊富な和食を楽しみなが らの懇談の様子が見られた。また、伊藤 園は臨時茶房を設置し、伝統的な抹茶の お点前を披露した。

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Representatives, who came from Japan said in his speech, “As we welcom the new era, ‘Reiwa’, I wish for further flourishment of the Japanese food culture.” Naomasa Shimada, Managing Director of Kikkoman Sales USA which is the pioneer of the world’s washoku development, presented a speech through a video. Also as a special guest, Yuko Kaifu, President of Japan House Los Angeles was invited, and made a speech about the aspiration for her organization to diffuse and develop Japan’s tradition, the sense of beauty, and the cutting-edge technologies to the world. The attendees included business and food industry related people from Japan and the US, media people, etc. Each individual shared the splendidness of Japanese food and heightened its value from each standpoint. This event turned out to be very meaningful, and was closed as a big successful one.

 ボールルームで行われたプログラムで は、日本から出席した佐藤正久外務省 副大臣が冒頭に挨拶で、 「新しい「令和」 の時代を迎え、日本食文化の一層の発展 を期待している」と語った。世界の和食 発展の元祖である「キッコーマン セー ルス USA」の取締役社長、島田政直氏 のビデオ挨拶もあった。また、特別ゲス トにジャパンハウス ロサンゼルス の海 部優子館長を迎え、日本の伝統や美意識、 先進的な技術を世界に拡散し発展させる 組織の抱負を語った。参加者には日本と アメリカのビジネスと食関係者、メディ アなどが参加しそれぞれの立場から日本 食の素晴らしさを分かち合い価値を高め る有意義なイベントとなり、盛大に幕を 閉じた。


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s @Los Angeleke Meetup a Japanese s KIKISAKE-SHI

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唎酒師 SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB

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Takayuki Kanai

Katsuya Uechi

President Mutual Trading Company Inc

Chairman & President Wismettac Asian Foods, Inc

Chairman Katsuya Group

Honorary Sake Sommelier & Saka-Sho Honorary Sake Sommelier & Saka-Sho Honorary Sake Sommelier & Saka-Sho

Rick Smith & Hiroko Furukawa

Honorary Sake Sommelier & Saka-Sho

Beau Timken

Kats Miyazato

Owner “True Sake”

Owner of M&M Enterprise

Honorary Sake Sommelier & Saka-Sho

Honorary Sake Sommelier

Owner “SAKAYA NYC”

The possibilities of Shochu 焼酎の可能性

W

Yuji Matsumoto Master Sake Sommelier

Finalist of the 2nd World Sake Sommelier Competition. Graduated from Keio University Faculty of Law, Department of Political Science. Worked for Nomura Securities for 10 years. Former president of California Sushi Academy Former chief of planning dept. at Mutual Trading.

David Kudo Sake Sommelier Master Sake Sommelier

Born Kita-Akita City, Akita Prefecture. Took over as Executive Officer of the Japanese Food Trend News founded in 1991, when the predecessor was assigned back to Japan. Currently distributed as Japan Restaurant News (20,000 issues published electronically) in North America, Japan, and Southeast Asia.

発なく人気だが、意外にも焼酎が好 泡酒やフレイバー酒は言うまでも

評だ。  焼酎はロックやレモン割り、カルピス 割りどれもアメリカ人にうける。  レストラン側から見ると、特にカリ フォルニア州では、蒸留酒にもかかわ ら ず ア ル コ ー ル 24 % 以 下 な ら Beer & Wine ライセンスでも販売できるのが最 大のメリットだ。しかし、現場をみると

12

July 2019

hile sparkling wine and flavored wine is no doubt popular, another surprisingly popular beverage is shochu (distilled liquor). Shochu on-the-rocks, mixed with lemon soda or with Calpis soda are also popular among American consumers. From the restaurant side’s perspective, especially in California, the greatest advantage of selling shochu is that despite being a distilled liquor, as long as the alcohol level is less than 24 percent, shochu can still be sold with a Beer & Wine license. Surprisingly however, few restaurants are effectively incorporating shochu into their alcohol list. Judging from the response from customer, it seems as if more participants were interested in purchasing shochu than Japanese sake, which means there are still great sales opportunities for shochu.

この焼酎を有効的に活用しているレスト ランは意外と少ない。お客の反応からみ ると日本酒を買って帰る人より焼酎を購 入したい人が多いということは、販促に よってまだ伸びる可能性があるというこ とだ。  バーテンダーがいなくても、レモン ジュース、グレープジュース、ライチ ジュースと炭酸で簡単に利益率の高いカ クテル(酎ハイ)ができる。  何も焼酎を難しく説明することはな く、単に “Japanese Vodka” と言えば簡 単に理解され、アメリカ人に受け入れら れる。  このほかにマティーニやモヒト、さら に は、Bloody Mary な ど ウ ォ ッ カ や テ キーラで作れるほとんどのカクテルが焼 酎で出来るのでぜひ試されたい。

www.alljapannews.com

Even without a bartender, shochu highball can be easily prepared by mixing shochu with lemon juice, grape juice, lychee juice and carbonated water, with high profit rate. There is no difficult explanation involved other than “Japanese vodka” for easy understanding

and acceptance by American consumers. Also, maritinis, mojitos, Bloody M a r y, a n d v a r i o u s o t h e r v o d k a and tequila-based cocktails can be made with shochu. Therefore, I look forward to more American consumers trying shochu.

日本燒酒的可能性 不言而喻,發泡酒和加香酒很受歡迎;但 令人驚訝的是,日本燒酒亦廣獲好評。 加冰塊、檸檬或可爾必思的日本燒酒均獲 美國人好評。 以餐廳的角度而言——特別是在加利福尼 亞州——最大的優勢是在於儘管其歸屬於 蒸餾酒;但因其酒精成分只有24%或以 下,故只須持有啤酒及葡萄酒許可證,即 可販賣之。然而感到意外的是,去到當地 時會發現很少餐館能夠有效地利用這些日 本燒酒。從客戶的反應來看,與購買日本 酒回家的人比較,更多人希望購買日本燒 酒;所以根據促銷活動的展開,日本燒酒

的銷售量仍大有可能增加。 即使沒有調酒師,一樣可以利用檸檬汁, 葡萄汁,荔枝汁和碳酸輕鬆製作高利潤的 雞尾酒(日式highball,即日本燒酒摻汽 水)。 無須複雜艱難地解釋何謂日本燒酒;只需 簡單地說「日本伏特加」,即可簡單容易 獲美國人理解和接受。 除此之外,大多數可以用伏特加和龍舌蘭 酒製作的雞尾酒——如馬丁尼和莫希托, 以及血腥瑪麗等——都可以用日本燒酒製 作,請務必一試。

소주의 가능성 발포주와 플레이버주는 늘 인기를 끌고 있는데 의외로 소주도 좋은 평가를 받고 있습니다. 소주는 온더록이나 레몬와리, 칼피스와리 모두 미국 사람들에게 인기가 있다. 레스토랑 입장에서 보면, 특히 캘리포니아주에 서는, 증류주라도 알코올이 24% 이하면 Beer & Wine 라이센스로도 판매할 수 있어 큰 메리트가 있습니다. 그러나 실제 이 소주를 효과적으로 활 용하는 레스토랑은 의외로 적습니다. 고객의 반 응을 보면 니혼슈를 사가는 사람보다 소주를 구 입하려는 사람이 많은데, 판촉만 제대로 한다면 아직도 성장 가능성이 있다고 볼 수 있습니다.

바텐더가 없어도 레몬주스, 포도주스, 리치주스와 탄산으로 높은 마진의 칵테일 (츄하이)을 간단히 만들 수 있습니다. 소주를 어렵게 설명하지 말고 간단히 "Japanese Vodka" 라고 소개하면 미국 사람들도 쉽게 이해 하고 받아들일 수 있습니다. 이것 말고도 마티니나 모히토, Bloody Mary 같은 보드카나 데킬라로 만드는 대부분의 칵테일도 소 주로 만들 수 있으니 꼭 시도해보시기 바랍니다.


オーガニック Using only the premium Californian rice, Hakutsuru Organic Junmai Sake is carefully brewed with sophisticated skills and techniques. Ingredients, brewing process, aging process, and bottling process are all USDA certified organic. Sharp and exhilarating. Dry and light-bodied. Enjoy this Sake in a wide range from cold to warm/hot, and sweet/dry changes can be enjoyed depending on the temperature.

ALC.14.5% BY VOL. INGREDIENTS:ORGANIC RICE, RICE KOJI SAKE METER VALUE : +5

720ML

300ML


Info All Japan News, Inc. / Sake Shochu Beer Institute of America (213) 680-0011, AllJapanNews@gmail.com Brewery Owner

Sake Sommelier and Others

Kosuke Kuji

Joe Mizuno

Nanbu Bijin Inc. Fifth Generation Brewery Owner

Head of the “Regional Sake Tasting Club”

Yoshihiro Sako

Takao Matsukawa

Philip Harper

Yuzuki

Latin Region Specialist Mutual Trading Company Inc.

Tamagawa Hand Made Japanese Sake Master Sake Brewer

Miyuki Yoshida

Kaz Tokuhara

Sake Sommelier

Chizuko Niikawa-Helton Sake Sommelier Sake Samurai

Sake Sommelier

Sake Sommelier

Sake Sommelier

Toshiyuki Koizumi

Manager Wismettac Asian Foods

Alice Hama Certified Wine & Sake Sommelier

Rachel Macalisang Sake and Wine Sommelier

Koji Aoto

Sake Sommelier

Sake Sommelier

Owner “WASAN”

Savannah Distributing Co. Inc.

Liloa Papa

Certified Sake Professional Level LL

Timothy Sullivan Sake Samurai

Young’s Market Company

Koji Wong Owner Japon Bistro

Michael John Simkin MJS Sake Selection Owner

Kurtis Wells Mixologist

Mai Segawa

Hirohisa Kikuchi

Masato Kato

Akira Yuhara

Wismettac Asian Foods

Miyako Hybrid Hotel

Stuart Morris

Keita Akaboshi Sake Sommelier

Sake Sommelier

Hana Japanese Restaurant

Kuramoto US Inc.

True Sake

Sake Sommelier

Sake Sommelier

Don Lee

Advanced Sake Sommelier

Sake Sommelier

Tako Grill

Yama Sushi, Owner Chef

Sake Sommelier

Gary Imada Sake Advisor

Sake Sommelier

Mei HO

Eiji Mori

Sake Sommelier Katana Restaurant

Master Sake Brewer Junji Matsumori recognized as a Contemporary Master Craftsman of Iwate 松森杜氏、岩手県卓越技能者認定 by Kosuke Kuji

141

Kosuke Kuji Fifth Generation Brewery Owner Nanbu Bijin, Inc. Born May 11, 1972. Entered Tokyo University of Agriculture’s Department of Brewing and Fermentation. In 2005 became the youngest person ever to receive the Iwate Prefecture Young Distinguished Technician Award. In 2006 was selected to be a member of the board of trustees of his local alma mater, Fukuoka High School. Currently is featured in a number of media outlets including magazines, radio, and television. *Positions of Public Service: Chairperson, Cassiopeia Corporation Youth Conference; School Board Member, Fukuoka High School, Iwate Prefecture, Vice-Chairman, Technology Committee, Iwate Prefecture Brewers and Distillers’ Association

wate prefecture promotes improvement in the status and skills of skilled craftsmen to develop the prefecture’s economy. Since 1976, highly skilled craftsmen are recognized as Contemporary Master Craftsmen, the highest recognition for craftsmen honored by Iwate prefecture. Master Sake Brewer Junji Matsumori was recently recognized with this honor as a Contemporary Master Craftsman of Iwate prefecture. Born in Ninohe city, Iwate prefecture, Matsumori joined his wife’s family business of managing a liquor store upon marriage, where he worked at a local wholesaler. Just when I was searching for a “young worker for sake production,”

I met Matsumori and was moved by his noble spirit and love for sake, and invited him to join our brewery division. From then on, Matsumori worked under the late Hajime Yamaguchi, former Master Sake Brewer of Nanbu Bijin, where Matsumori inherited his late master’s genius sake production skills. Today, he leads the Nanbu Bijin sake production as our current Master Sake Brewer. Today, Matsumori is recognized as First Place in the Ginjo division and Second Place in the Junmai division of the most competitive sake awards in Japan, the Tohoku Sake Awards, and as world champion of the International Wine Challenge held in London in 2017, where his sake was recognized

as “Champion Sake.” The talented Master Sake Brewer also garnered First Place in both the sparkling sake division and Junmai Daiginjo division in a 2018 sake competition in Tokyo that recognized the most delicious brand of commercially available sake brand. In The Annual Japanese Sake Awards, Matsumori garnered the Gold Prize twelve times out of the thirteen years the awards were given, a celebrated Master Sake Brewer proudly representing both Iwate prefecture and Japan on the world stage. A young Nanbu Toji still in his fifties, we anticipate Master Sake Brewer Matsumori’s continued contribution to the ongoing development of sake production skills in the Japanese sake industry. .

 その岩手県卓越技能者に当社の松森杜 氏が選ばれ、先日表彰をされました。  松森杜氏は地元岩手県二戸市で生ま れ、結婚して奥様の家族が経営する酒屋 さんに婿で入り、地元の問屋さんで働い ていました。  私が蔵に帰って、酒造りで若い人材が 欲しい、と願っていた時に、出会い、そ の気高き心と日本酒愛に惚れ込んで当社 の酒造り部門に来てもらいました。  そこからは、南部美人の前杜氏である

故山口一杜氏に付き、天才と言われた山 口杜氏の技を継承し、今では南部美人 の杜氏として酒造り全般を指揮してい ます。  2016 年には日本で最もレベルの高い 鑑評会である東北清酒鑑評会で見事吟醸 酒の部門で首席第 1 位、純米酒の部門で 2 位というダブル受賞をし、2017 年に は世界一の称号を決めるロンドンで開催 されるインターナショナルワインチャレ ンジで見事世界一「チャンピオンサケ」

を受賞、2018 年には世界一おいしい市 販酒を決める東京で開催されるサケコン ペティションでスパークリングの部門で 1 位、純米大吟醸の部門で 1 位とダブル 首席を受賞しました。全国新酒鑑評会で も 13 年間で 12 回金賞受賞など、岩手が、 そして日本が誇る名杜氏です。  まだ 50 代と若く、これから岩手の南 部杜氏のため、そして日本の日本酒業界 の技術発展のため、貢献していってほし いです。

I

岩技能労働者の地位及び技能水準の

手 県 で は 技 能 尊 重 気 運 を 醸 成 し、

向上を図り、岩手県産業経済の発展に寄 与することを目的として、卓越技能者表 彰を昭和 51 年度から行っています。  岩手県の技術者としては、最高の栄誉 の表彰です。

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July 2019

www.alljapannews.com


日本 百味 酒 百題 J

apanese sake is consumed at a wide range of temperatures suitable for consumption compared to other fermented liquors. Needless to say, the suitable temperature for consumption is subjective to one’s preferences, but largely divided into three temperature ranges: low (41 °F ~ 50 °F), room

美味しい酒を150種類 日本全国から輸入 全米のネットワークを通じて 皆様に直送中 Yoshihide Murakami

www.jfc.com

What terms describe suitable temperatures to consume sake? 飲用温度の表現には、どのようなものがあるのか temperature (50 °F ~ 68 °F), and hot sake (86 °F ~ 140 °F). In ancient times before refrigerators were invented, sake was consumed at temperatures described as “cold sake” and “hot sake,” except cold sake in this case refers to room temperature. Although hot sake was described as “lukewarm,” “low warm ,” or “hot sake,” no clear definition was established to distinguish between these temperatures. Today, hot sake is broadly differentiated according to the following temperatures: Sunny Ambient Warm (approximately 86 °F, Lukewarm (approximately 95 °F), (approximately 104 °F), High Warm (approximately 113 °F), Hot (approximately 122 °F), and Very Hot (approximately 131 °F or higher).

On the other hand, cold temperatures are differentiated as Snow-chilled (approximately 41 °F), Chilly Blooming Season (approximately 50 °F), and Refreshing Cold (approximately 59 °F), a temperature range from low to room temperatures. Of course, these temperatures are simply guidelines, and do not stipulate a concise requirement, but merely to demonstrate the term hot consists of a wide range of varied temperatures, a sentiment unique to the world of Japanese sake. However, perhaps due to influences from the popularity of Ginjo and draft sake recently viewed as delicious when chilled, more consumers are getting particular about the temperature at which they consume sake. Orders for hot sake

at pubs and restaurants are increasingly served hot (approximately 122 °F). Also, while some consumers prefer to enjoy both premium vs. non-premium sake brands at room temperature, many seem to visualize non-heated sake at room temperature (the conventional ‘cold’ sake) as the commercially packaged “cup sake.” Some Japanese sake was conventionally served as “kan-agari” or “kan-sagari.” Kan-agari means sake more flavorful when heated, while kan-sagari refers to the opposite, sake that looses its flavor when heated. Since sake was conventionally heated, sake not suitable for heating was deemed as bad quality, which is no longer the case today.

度近辺)、熱燗(50 度近辺)、飛び切り 燗(55 度近辺、またはそれ以上)。  一方、冷やの温度については、雪冷え (5 度近辺)、花冷え(10 度近辺)、涼冷 え(15 度近辺)とされ、低温帯から常 温帯にかけての温度になっている。  もちろん、これらの温度はあくまで目 安にすぎず、必ずこの温度でなければな らないという性格のものではない。ただ、 燗をするということだけでも、これだけ のバリエーションがあるというのは、日 本酒の世界ならではの情緒ともいえるだ ろう。  しかし、最近は冷やして飲むとおいし いとされる吟醸酒や生酒のブームの影響 もあってか、燗のつけ具合にこだわる人 が少なくなってきたともいわれる。飲み 屋や料理店で、燗酒を注文すると一様に

熱燗を提供されるケースも増えているよ うだ。また、吟醸酒のような高級酒か、 普通酒かにかかわらず、常温で飲むのを 好む人もいるが、一方で、燗をしない常 温(昔の「冷や」)の酒は、いわゆるコッ プ酒のイメージが強くてどうも、という 人もいる。  かつての日本酒には、 「燗上がり」の する酒と「燗下がり」のする酒があると いわれた。燗上がりがするというのは、 燗をつけることによってよりおいしく感 じられることで、燗下がりとは逆に、か えってまずくなってしまうことを意味し た。昔は燗をすることが当たり前だった ので、燗に向かない酒はよくないとされ たわけだが、もちろん現在はそんなこと はない。

Master Sake Sommelier Liquor Manager JFC International Inc.

日ワインに比べて、飲用の適温にかな 本酒は、同じ醸造酒であるビールや

BRANCHES & SALES OFFICES Head Office: LOS ANGELES (800) 633-1004, (323) 721-6100 LOS ANGELES Branch SAN DIEGO Sales Office, LAS VEGAS Sales Office PHOENIX Sales Office, DENVER Sales Office SAN FRANCISCO Branch SACRAMENTO Sales Office SEATTLE Branch PORTLAND Sales Office HOUSTON Branch DALLAS Sales Office BATON ROUGE Sales Office CHICAGO Branch TOLEDO Sales Office NEW YORK Branch BOSTON Sales Office BALTIMORE Branch ATLANTA Branch ORLAND Sales Office MIAMI Branch HAWAII Branch JFC GROUP OFFICE HAPI PRODUCTS, INC. JES INC. Interbranch Distribution Center (IDC)

HAKUTSURU TOJI-KAN Futsu-shu SMV: +2

りの幅がある。もちろん、適温は好みに よっても変わってくるわけだが、大まか に分けると、低温(摂氏 5 ~ 10 度)、常 温(10 ~ 20 度 )、 燗(30 ~ 60 度 ) の 三つの温度帯に分類されるという。  冷蔵庫の普及していなかった昔は、日 本酒の飲用温度については、 「冷や」と 「燗」の区別しかなかったが、この場合 の冷やとは常温のことである。また、燗 については「人肌」や「ぬる燗」、 「熱燗」 の区別はあったが、どの程度の温度なの かは非常に曖昧だった。現在は、燗の区 別については、温度によって次のように 分類するのが一般的である。   日 向 燗(30 度 近 辺 )、 人 肌 燗(35 度 近辺)、ぬる燗(40 度近辺)、上燗(45

Ozeki Karatamba Honjozo SMV: +7

Suehiro Densho Yamahai Junmai SMV: -1.0

この記事は株式会社柴田書店より提供されています。 This article was courtesy from Shibata Shoten Co Ltd.

Kurosawa Junmai Kimoto Junmai SMV: +3

Daishichi Kimoto Honjozo

Hakushika Tokusen Junmai

SMV: +2

Japanese Restaurant News

SMV: +3

Vol. 29

No. 248

15


KIKISAKE-SHI

唎酒師

JAPAN

SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB Master Sake Sommelier Info

All Japan News, Inc. /

Sake Shochu Beer Institute of America (213) 680-0011, AllJapanNews@gmail.com

Ask me

Yuji Matsumoto Master Sake Sommelier

Master Sake Sommelier

Toshio Ueno

Ami Nakanishi

Yoshihide Murakami Master Sake Sommelier

Master Sake Sommelier

David Kudo

Ryuji Takahashi

Beverage Manager Kabuki Restaurant

Vice President Sake School of America

Vice President New York Mutual Trading, Inc.

Liquor Manager JFC International Inc.

President, All Japan News

Owner “Ji . sakeya” Shuto-Meijin

ymurakami@jfc.com

davidkudo@gmail.com

ryu2syuto@yahoo.co.jp

Master Sake Sommelier

ymatsumoto001@gmail.com info@sakeschoolofamerica.com info@sakeschoolofamerica.com

Master Sake Sommelier

Japanese Sake Labels 日本酒のラベル Non-premium Sake Sake not stipulated under regulations for Premium Sake are referred to as follows:

Sake Shochu Beer Institute of America

米国酒焼酎麦酒研究所

Sake Shochu Beer Institute of America was founded with the purpose to promote further understanding of Japanese sake, shochu and beer in a shared where 500 million people enjoy wine in North America. We strive to increase Japanophiles by furthering understanding of the sake culture through online Japanese sake and shochu colleges and books related to Japanese sake, shochu and beer, etc. Especially sampling parties directly approaches consumers and no doubt contributes to expanding the market. Also, our final purpose is to facilitate communication with sake breweries, sake producers, and distribution companies, etc., to introduce Japanese sake, shochu and beer to American consumers in a way that’s easy-to-understand.

16

July 2019

Distilled Alcohol added in greater quantity than the stipulated. Other ingredients other than koji (malted rice) added, such as sweetener, acidulant, amino acids, etc. If the rice polishing ratio is above 71% in the Hon-jozo group. If the usage rate of malted rice is less than 15%. If the grade of used rice is below 3rd grade. Labeled by the brewer as special choice, top choice, selection, consistent with the traditional classification as first class, second class, and third class. Brewery Year (BY) unique to Japan Brewery Year – Referred to for producing Japanese sake, class B shochu, mirin (rice wine), fruit liquor, etc. – is from July 1 to June 30. The Japanese sake production starts from October, November and ends in February, March. CY=Calendar Year, 1-12 FY=Fiscal Year, 4-3 RY=Rice Year, 11-10

www.alljapannews.com

普通酒―特定名称酒の規定から外れたものを 呼ぶ。   規定量以上の醸造アルコール添加 甘味料、酸味料、アミノ酸類など、米、米麹 以外の原料を追加 本醸造グループで精米歩合 71% 以上の場合 麹米の使用割合が 15% 未満の場合 使用米の等級が3等以下の場合 特選、上選、佳選―蔵元が独自に表記、昔の 1級、2級、3級の流れ 日本酒独自の BY=Brewery Year    酒造年度―日本酒、焼酎乙類、みりん、果実酒、 7月1日―6月 30 日―日本酒製造が 10,  11 月に始まり、2, 3月に終わる CY=Calendar Year, 1-12 FY=Fiscal Year, 4-3 RY=Rice Year, 11-10


Ryuji Takahashi

by Ryuji Takahashi

Regional Sake Specialty Store “Ji Sakeya” Owner, Master Sake Sommelier, Shuto-Meijin, and the charismatic guru of ordinary sake. Plans and manages events and seminars with his own unique flare to introduce the appeal of Japanese sake and cuisine, unaffected by the latest trends, while managing a jizake retail store.

Rice-planting in Niigata Prefecture 新潟田植え編

T

he national vacation week in Japan known as the “Golden Week” ended as the first summer breeze blew, when community-based sake producing group “Oretachi no Sake” planted rice to commence their 17th sake production, headed by the Kanemasu Brewery in Shibata city, Niigata prefecture. This group’s sake production was covered in a previous issue that described how Oretachi no Sake plants their rice in May, harvests their rice in September, ferments the sake with all participants in February for completion in July, with the names of all participants included on the sake label, “Oretachi no Sake: Hatsuhana Junmai Daiginjo.” I’ve made it a point since the 14th sake production year to participate at least once during one of the tasks for each yearlong cycle, but always faced the misfortune of rain or heavy snow every time I participated. Luckily, this last cycle was blessed with remarkably sunny weather as rice was planted under comfortable weather. Participants gathered at the sake brewery at 08:25 AM, car-pooled with brewery staff or local participants to the rice fields, inhaling the fresh, early summer breeze along the way. First, the Master sake brewer gave a briefing on how to plant rice, followed by all participants in a line to each plant the rice seedlings by hand. Since I couldn’t be bothered to bring rain boots with me, I stepped into the muddy rice fields with bare feet. The cool, soft mud was very comfortable under the soles of my feet. All participants gave their all to plant rice, occasionally taking breaks to wash their hands and feet in an irrigation ditch. The cold stream flowing down from the mountains soothingly cooled the body over-heated from the sun. Participants finished planting the rice seedlings in the mud and headed back to the brewery by car, viewing the snowy mountain tops of Ninoujidake along the way. Taking in the green rice fields after rice planting under the sunny blue sky in sharp contrast to the snowy Ninoujidake mountain tops

on the way home is a joy experienced only in the beginning of summer. Rice planting was a soul-reviving experience away from the bustling city where I live. Upon returning to the brewery, the participants changed their clothes and waiting for the after-party to begin. Since some participants attended from Tokyo, a brewery tour was given to visitors. Local Niigata specialties such as “Hegi Soba Noodles” (Seaweed and Buckwheat Noodles) were served with exquisite locally catered cuisine as we enjoyed our 15th sake produced. In-between sake, we also consumed rice shochu and beer from the brewery café managed by the brewery, essentially turning the after-party into a big drinking party every time we gather. Sake consumption creates instant friends, especially due to the hospitality of Niigata locals who instantly befriend participants from other prefectures every year. Even after the event is over, the participants headed over to an izakaya restaurant in front of the Shibata Station for a secondary afterparty. Afterwards, the group returned to Niigata Station, broke up into smaller groups, and went onto the next drinking party, a fun sequence of parties every time. As I returned to Tokyo the following morning, I thought to myself that any professional handling sake brands

大初夏の空気に変わり始めた頃に新

型 ゴ ー ル デ ン ウ イ ー ク が 終 わ り、

潟県新発田市の金升酒造にて 17 作目と なる「おれたちの酒」の田植えが行われ た。以前も本紙に書いたのだが、この俺 たちの酒は5月の田植え、9月の稲刈 り、2月の仕込みに一般参加が出来、7 月に完成する「俺たちが仕込んだ酒 初 花 純米大吟醸」の巻紙に参加者の名前 が入るというイベントだ。私は 14 作目 から1年のサイクルの内、必ずどこかの 作業に1回は参加するようにしているの だが、なぜか参加するときは必ず雨か大 雪になることが多かった。今回は驚くほ どの快晴で非常に気持ちの良い気候の中 で田植えが行われた。朝8時 25 分に酒 蔵集合、乗り合いで酒蔵や地元の人の車 に乗り田んぼまで向かうのだが、窓か ら入り込む初夏の風がとても気持ち良 い。まずは杜氏から田植えの方法の説明 を受け、全員が横並びになり苗を植えて 行く。長靴を持って行くのが面倒だった ので、裸足で田んぼに入ったのだが泥の 少しヒンヤリした感触がとても気持ち良 かった。皆、真面目に田植えを行い作業 の合間の休憩に用水路で足や手を洗うの

should experience rice planting at least once. Understanding the roots of sake helps to reconfirm the meaning and joy of sake consumption.

だが、まだまだ山の合間からの水は冷た く太陽に照らされて火照った体を、ほど よく冷やしてくれて心地よい。泥にまみ れながら田植えを終え、車で酒蔵まで帰 に の う じ だけ るのだが、途中まだ雪の残る二王子岳を 眺めながら帰ることが出来る。快晴の青 い空と田植えを終えた緑の田んぼと雪の 残る二王子岳のコントラストを眺めなが ら帰るのは初夏の時期だけの楽しみだろ う。都会の喧騒に日々いる自分にとって は心が洗われる様だった。酒蔵に帰り着 替えを済ませて懇親会を待つのだが、東 京から初参加の人もいるので蔵の案内な どで時間を潰し宴会スタート。15 作目 の俺たちの酒が振る舞われ、料理も新潟 と言えば「へぎ蕎麦」と言わんばかりの 大量の蕎麦が出て来て、地元の仕出し料 理屋の豪華な料理などで酒を楽しむ。日 本酒の合間に金升酒造の樫樽貯蔵の米焼 酎を飲んだり、酒蔵の運営する蔵カフェ のビールを飲んだりと、ただの飲み会に 毎回なってしまう。酒を飲むと初めての 人達とも一瞬で仲良くなれるし、特に新 潟の人達は他県から参加者を毎回温かく 迎えてくれる。イベント自体が終了して も皆で新発田駅前の居酒屋で2次会。そ の後も新潟駅に戻り、小さいグループに 別れまた飲み会という毎回の流れが最高 に楽しい。翌日の朝には東京の喧騒に 戻って思ったのだが、日本酒を扱う人間 として一度は田植えを経験することを私 はお勧めしたい。酒のルーツを知りつつ、 酒を飲む意味や楽しさを再認識出来るか らだ。

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 248

17


社長    人が明かす

「オンリーワンの 店づくり、

わが社ならではの

組織づくり」 “How to Create a One-Of-A-Kind Izakaya Restaurant, Creating an Organization Like None Other” as Revealed by 22 Founders

(株) オベーションプラス 代表取締役

梅村雄士氏 Ovation Plus, Inc. CEO

Yuji Umemura

Profile 1978年熊本県生まれ。大学入学と同時に関西へ移り、 卒業後外食産業へ。2004年9月に神戸・三宮に居酒屋 「だ いにんぐ 松の家」 をオープンし独立を果たした。現在は 主力ブランドの 「バルザル」 をはじめ直営11店、FC・業 態委託各1店を布陣する。

Born in Kumamoto prefecture in 1978. Relocated to the Kansai region to study at a university. Employed in the restaurant industry after graduation. Opened izakaya restaurant “Dining Matsunoya” near the Kobe-Sannomiya in Kobe city, Osaka prefecture in September 2004.

18

July 2019

www.alljapannews.com

continued from last issue

The new restaurant “iL CONAMON” that opened in May 2013 demonstrates just the type of thinking we presented. Although past businesses on bustling streets conventionally targeted consumers in their twenties to thirties, this restaurant is located in the suburbs. Weekday lunch hours target mothers with children and groups, while evening hours target workers commuting back home by train to dine near the train station closest to their homes as a restaurant or an izakaya (sake pub), while the weekends target families as a family-friendly restaurant. The starting point is to not narrow down your customers, not designate whom the customers can bring, and offer economical prices for everyday use. Also, a self-service udon noodle restaurant with increasing market share in the suburbs also served as an inspiration. Focusing on noodle dishes with a wide range of selections, adding elements from Italian cuisine that our company developed over the years naturally led to serving pasta. We also introduced pizza selections popular among children to offer two main representative products. Our current line-up consists of 2 different noodle selections with approximately 20 different sauces, combined with pasta and 10 different kiln-baked pizza selections. We also offer allyou-can-eat pizza to target families, complete with pizza selections for take-out. There is definitely a demand for “take-out orders to consume at home.” Since in-store dining and takeout requires vastly different knowledge, I can’t speak lightly on this subject. However, this is definitely one area of interest to me. However, using existing noodle and pizza dough products is not interesting, so I am fastidious about using pizza dough kneaded and prepared

by hand, even though this extra effort complicates our operation. I’m convinced each additional effort will no doubt enhance our products. Although we may not compete with top restaurants or pizzerias strictly by flavor alone, if these top restaurants are rated as 10, we strive to be at least an 8 and continue competing by price, convenience, and other factors. In addition to achieving an overall balance as a restaurant, I believe balancing the advantages of a “restaurant chain” is also important. Purchasing food ingredients, product development, and other behind-the-scene efforts is where we capitalize on the advantages of operating a restaurant chain. Our main restaurant relocated in October 2013 and added a food center to resolve our past inability to deal directly with food production regions despite the many inquiries we received due to lack of stockyards and other distribution challenges we previously faced. Our food center receives collective deliveries of food products at once. We arranged individual deliveries to each restaurant to expand our clientele and keep food costs low. Also, our food center is equipped with a test kitchen to be used as a centralized kitchen in the future to enhance the quality of basic menu items. We’re confident that combining a strong product base as our foundation with original menu items serving respective locations and customer demographics will establish our chain restaurant will become the “one and only” dining destination in their respective communities. The conventional goal of opening multiple restaurant locations also changed over time. In the past, the corporate priority was to expand the scale of operation by increasing restaurant locations. Today however, the corporate priority is to establish a strong brand identity by “steadily develop quality restaurants.”


To do so, the brand concept is shared with staff members to ensure they share the same vision and approach towards our effort, which makes these staff indispensable. Looking back on my own experience, my motivation and perseverance alone carried me through opening the first five restaurant locations. My next challenge to increase my restaurant locations from 5 to 10 were personnel training and enhancing the organizational structure. I realize in some aspects, organizational enhancement didn’t keep up with the growth in restaurant locations. On site, I can’t deny my dependence on “competent staff” highly capable in all aspects of QSC (Q: Quality, S: Service, C: Cleanliness). Needless to say, anyone can learn operational ‘tasks” like how to cut food ingredients, clean the floors, and use the cash register. On the other hand, to what extent the worker goes to ensure the desired outcome is the key difference in “performing a task” vs. “demonstrating professional competence.” For example, when I ask a staff member to “please clean the floor,” some staff will quickly clean the visible areas only, while others will move all the tables and chairs out of the way to clean every corner thoroughly. Although this may be an extreme example, the “expected operational standards” are different for each person. Right now, my immediate priority is to establish this “expected operational

先月号の続き

 2013 年5月にオープンした新業態「イ ル・コナモン」はいまお話したような私 たちの考えを反映した店です。 これまでの業態は繁華街立地で、20 代 ~ 30 代をターゲットとしてきましたが、 今回は郊外立地。平日のランチ帯はママ 友同士のお子さま連れでのグループ利 用、夜は帰宅駅での食事利用や居酒屋使 い、休日にはファミリーレストランと してご利用いただくことを狙いました。 ターゲットを絞り込まず、一緒に来る相 手も選ばない、さらに日常使いできる価 格帯であることが業態発想の出発点で す。また、郊外でシェアを伸ばすセルフ うどん業態もアイデアのもととなりまし たね。守備範囲の広い麺料理に注目し、 弊社がこれまでに培ってきたイタリアン の要素を加味すると自然にパスタにたど り着きました。さらに、子どもから人気 の高いピッツァを導入し、2枚看板とし ています。  現在は 20 種前後のソースに2種の麺 を組み合わせるパスタと窯焼きピッツァ 10 品をラインアップ。ファミリー利用 を意識してピッツァの食べ放題も導入し ています。さらに、ピッツァのテイクア ウトも行なっています。現在、中食産業 が伸びを見せるなか、「買って帰って食

standards” in all areas of our operation to enhance our organization as a whole. This is because I believe sharing my values and expectations behind everyday tasks is important in enhancing our organization overall.

べたい」というニーズは確実にあります。 外食と中食ではノウハウがまったく異な るため、軽々しく語ることはできません が、関心のある分野のひとつですね。  ただ、麺やピッツァ生地において既製 品をそのまま使うのではおもしろくあり ません。オペレーションは複雑になって も、手打ち、手づくり生地にはこだわり たいですし、そうしたひと手間の部分が 商品の魅力となってくるはずです。単純 に味だけを見れば、一流のリストランテ やピッツェリアにはかなわなくても、そ こが 100 点だとすれば私たちは 80 点を 目指し、価格や使い勝手など他の部分と 合わせて勝負していきたいのです。  また店舗としての総合的なバランスの よさに加えて、「チェーン店らしさ」「個 店らしさ」をいかにバランスよく落とし 込むかも重視している部分ですね。とく に、仕入れや商品開発などバックヤード の部分ではチェーン店らしさをより発揮 していきます。2013 年 10 月には本社を 移転し、食材センターを併設しました。 これまでも、産地との直接取引のお話な どをいただくことはあったものの、ス トックヤードや物流の問題からなかなか クロージングすることができず、歯がゆ い思いをしてきました。納品を食材セン ターで一括受けし、店舗に個別配送する 仕組みを整えたことで、今後は取引きの 幅もより広がりますし、食材原価の抑制 にもつながります。また、センターには テストキッチンも備えており、将来的 にはセントラルキッチンとしても活用 し、ベーシックな料理の質を高めていき ます。強いベース商材を土台として、そ の上に立地や客層に合わせた店舗オリジ ナルのメニューを組み合わせることで、 チェーンでありながらも地域における

“ オンリーワン ” の存在になり得ると感 じています。   多店化に関する考え方も変わりました ね。かつては店数を増やし、規模を拡大 することを企業としてのプライオリティ と考えていましたが、現在では「着実に いい店をつくっていく」ことにアイデン ティティを見出しています。  そして、そのためには理念を共有し同 じ感覚を持って取り組める社員の存在が 不可欠です。自分の経験を振り返っても 創業から5店舗までは気合と根性だけ で、なんとか乗り切れました。  次の5店から 10 店の間で着実に人材 育成と組織固めにかかるべきだったので すが、店舗数の伸びと比較して組織づく りが追いつかなかった面が少なからずあ ります。現場ではQSCすべての部分で 「できる人材」に頼ってしまっている部 分があるのは否めません。もちろん食材 をカットしたり、フロアを掃除したり、 レジを打ったりという「作業」の部分は 誰にでも身に付きます。  しかし、どのレベルまで気を配って取 り組むかによって、ただの「作業」にな るか「仕事」になるかが明確に分かれま す。たとえば「フロアの掃除をお願いし ます」と言ったときに、目に付くところ だけをさっと掃除するスタッフもいれ ば、テーブルや椅子をすべて移動して隅 々まで掃除するスタッフもいます。これ は極端な例かもしれませんが、それぞれ に「当り前」の基準が違うんです。い ま、私が早急に取り組むべきことは、す べてにおいてオベーションプラスとして の「当り前」を構築していくこと。日々 の作業を通じた価値観の共有が、より強 い組織になるために求められると感じて います。

*This article was referred from “Mook Izakaya 2014” published by Shibata Shoten Co Ltd. *この記事は株式会社柴田書店発行の“Mook居酒屋2014”からの転載です。

食の総合出版社  株式会社 柴田書店

SHIBATA PUBLISHING CO., LTD.

IYASAKA Building 3-26-9 Yushima, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo 113-8477, Japan Tel. +81-3-5816-8269 Fax.+81-3-5816-8262 http://www.shibatashoten.co.jp http://www.ss-foodlabo.com/ e-mail: foodlabo@shibatashoten.co.jp FACEBOOK http://www.facebook.com/ss.foodlabo Twitter @shibatashotenSD

S

hibata Publishing Co., Ltd. is a publishing company founded in 1950, comprehensively covering the culinary industry for “food and service professionals” through publications such as “Gekkan Shokudo” and “Gekkan Senmonryori.” Their theme of providing “content that meets the high demands of professionals” hasn’t changed since their foundation. Especially now, at a time when the entire publishing industry is faced with the need for structural changes, we must all the more uphold this theme to provide fresh content. Capitalizing on our strength of knowledge and providing strong content through the publication of books and magazines, we must continue to challenge ourselves with new products and business areas. By doing so, we will continue our mission at Shibata Publishing: to contribute to the development of the culinary, restaurant and lodging industries, and undertake business activities in various fields.

1950 年に創業した食の総合出版社 柴田書店は です。出版を通じて “ 食とサービスのプロ ”

に貢献するべく、『月刊食堂』『月刊専門料理』な どの専門雑誌によって実現されています。  「プロの厳しい要求に応える内容を」という商 品づくりのテーマは、創業以来一貫して変わるこ とはありません。出版ビジネスの構造転換が迫ら れる今だからこそ、われわれはそのテーマをより 鮮明にしていかなければならないと考えていま す。書籍、雑誌づくりを通じて蓄積したノウハウ とコンテンツの強みを生かして、新しい商品や事 業領域に挑戦していくこと。それによって料理業 界、外食・宿泊サービス業界のさらなる発展に貢 献することを柴田書店の使命として、これからも 多彩な事業活動に取り組んでまいります。

■月刊誌ご案内■ Introduction to our monthly publications (GEKKAN SHOKUDO) We logically analyze and produce articles on the rapidly growing restaurant industry and bustling restaurants!!! For readers like you, who want to learn the operations of a popular restaurant, management of restaurant figures and popular menu selections, we thoroughly report the management methods of growing restaurant businesses! 勢いのある外食産業や繁盛店を論理的に分析し、記事に します!! 繁盛店のオペレーションが知りたい、飲食店 の数値管理を学びたい、売れるメニューのレシピが知り たい、そんなあなたに成長する外食企業の経営手法を徹 底的に分析します

■公式WEBサイト■

(GEKKAN SENMONRYORI) Gekkan Senmonryori provides the latest techniques and information on Japanese, Italian, French and Chinese cuisines, desserts, and other cuisines from various countries. We also follow and report on recent trends and the latest information on food ingredients garnering attention. With “highly specialized” as our key word, we thoroughly explain the food preparation methods of top-rated professionals.

café-sweets is a specialized magazine filled with useful information as reference for both coffee and pastry professionals and amateur readers alike. Following industry trends, we introduce how to decorate your restaurant appealingly, products and techniques. We report information on the popular coffees, breads and pastries, cakes, Japanese confections, chocolates, and interviews with owners about their experiences after the shops open.

日本料理、イタリア料理、フランス料理、中国料理、デザ ート、その他各国料理の技術と情報を満載。近年、関心が 高まっている素材の動向、食材生産地の現状もフォローし ます。 「専門性の高さ」 を キーワードに一流の調理技術を 惜しみなく解説

カフェとスイーツ・パンのプロフェッショナル、アマチュアの 皆様にも参考になる専門誌です。業界のトレンドを追い、魅力 ある店づくり、商品や技術を紹介。コーヒー、パン、ケーキ、 和菓子、チョコレート情報、またお店開業後、活躍するオーナ ーの体験談、海外情報も満載です

FOODLABO by 柴田書店 (FOODLABO by SHIBATASHOTEN)

「レストラン」 「料理」 「外食人」 「食ニュ ース」 「文化・知識」 に焦点を当てて、日々 変化を続ける食情報を毎日発信します。 最新オープンニュース、イベント情報の 他、人気店や話題店の料理レシピから外 食人のインタビューまで楽しい記事・コ ンテンツが満載です。

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 248

19


NEWS TRENDS

By Hiroshi Kawabata

A Trade Fair to Popularize Japanese Cuisine Worldwide -“2019 Sake Expo & Food Show Los Angeles” organized by JFC International, Inc.日本食を世界に広げるための見本市 

-JFC インターナショナル社主催 酒エキスポ&フードショー 2019 開催 - 

“2

019 Sake Expo & Food Show Los Angeles” was organized by JFC International, Inc. - a corporate member of the Kikkoman Global Network and distributor of Asian food products and beverages in North America for over a century - held at the Hilton Orange County Hotel in Costa Mesa, Calif. on Saturday, May 18 to further expand distribution routes in the North American market. Founded in San Francisco in 1912, JFC International, Inc. founded JFC Japan, Inc. in Tokyo in 1928 as an export base for Japanese exports. Currently, the global Asian food and beverage distributor utilizes its worldwide network to distribute Japanese food products, sake, various alcoholic beverages, etc., from various vendors to over forty countries worldwide, contributing to the further development and widespread consumption of Japanese cuisine in various regions worldwide. This year’s expo was the 14th expo held to date, targeting restaurant owners, chefs, grocery stores, food and beverage-related corporations, mainly to expand distribution routes and to introduce new products. Exhibitors included Japanese breweries from Japan interested in increasing sales with exhibits of over 200 Japanese sake, shochu, and beer products from over 34 breweries

22

July 2019

throughout Japan. Beverage industry professionals from the Los Angeles suburbs also attended with the event attended by more participants than last year that totaled approximately 1,600 attendees. Japanese sake exports for 2017 broke the record with both the highest volume and sales for eight consecutive years straight that totaled 18.67900 billion yen. The U.S. is the top export destination for sake products (6,039 million yen), increasing in trend. Compared to 2017, refined (Japanese) sake exported from Japan to the U.S. totaled 5,780 kl in volume, and 6,039 million yen in export value, an increase of 1.5 times in volume and 1.7 times in value compared to 10 years ago in 2007. Although export decreased in 2009 following the Lehman’s shock in 2008, signs of recovery was first visible in 2010 with a continuous increasing trend since. Rice wine (general alcoholic

www.alljapannews.com

beverages including Japanese sake) imported by the U.S. from overseas is mostly from Japan, constituting 67.5 percent of the overall imports in 2017, and 92.8 percent of the import value. Restaurant industry professionals demonstrated great interest in Japanese sake and shochu products, reviewing the product descriptions presented by the breweries and sampling the beverages numerous times, since alcohol sales largely influence the overall sales for restaurants. In the food section, large lines formed before various booths that exhibited farmed Bluefin tuna, seafood shipped directly from the Toyosu Market, grains, gyoza (dumping), curried rice, ramen, udon (wheat flour) noodles, soba (buckwheat) noodles, oden (processed fish cake), miso soup, desserts, etc. In addition to food products, sushi-making machines, dishware, and knives were also exhibited for spot sales.

Also, a sake seminar by Ozeki Sake U.S.A. and other seminars were held on the stage set inside the exposition hall. Fishing and food processing company Kyokuyo America Corporation airlifted a 170-pound tuna from Japan for the farmed tuna filleting demonstration that attracted many attendees to the stage, indicative of the high interest in farmed tuna. Samples of the tuna filleted onsite were served as sashimi to long lines of attendees that continued until the event ended. Yoshihide Murakami of JFC International eagerly stated, “We receive many inquiries for organic, vegan, gluten-free, and vegetarian products from customers due to increased interest in health-conscious food products. This year, JFC’s booths introduced our latest products and encouraged attendees to try our samples. Since last year, we also exhibited Japanese hard liquor brands including whiskey, brandy, and gin with new


Japanese regional beer brands. JFC will continue to review customer feedback and requests to propose products that meet consumer demand. We also look forward to encouraging more consumers to try our quality Japanese sake brands and proposing ‘a toast at home with Japanese sake’ on special days or occasions.” Stephanie Chan, a local Japanese restaurant owner in Anaheim also commented, “Japanese sake is very complex. Junmai Daiginjo is easyto-drink, smooth to the palate, and the most delicious. Also, nigori sake is sweet and flavorful, I liked it very much. The products I sampled today were helpful to see which products I could serve in my restaurant.”

キットワークの一員であり、北米

コーマン・グローバル・ネッ

で 100 年以上にわたりアジアの食料飲料 を提供してきた JFC インターナショナ ル 社 は、5 月 18 日( 土 曜 日 ) カ リ フ ォ ルニア州コスタメサ市のヒルトン・オレ ンジにおいて、北米市場でのさらなる販 路拡大を目的とした見本市「酒エキスポ &フードショー 2019」を開催した。   JFC インターナショナル社は、1912 年にサンフランシスコに創立。1928 年 に は 日 本 か ら の 輸 出 拠 点 と し て、JFC ジャパンを東京に設立。現在は、世界各 地に展開されているネットワークを活用 し、日本食や日本酒、各酒類のベンダー 各社の商品を 5 大陸 40ヵ国以上に届け、 世界各地の日本食の発展と普及を支えて いる。

 今回で 14 回目を数えるこのエキスポ は、レストランオーナーやシェフ、グロッ サリーストア、飲食・食品関連企業など を対象にしたもので販売ルートの拡大や 新製品の紹介が主な目的。北米での販売 増加を図るために日本から参加した蔵元 を含め、日本各地にある蔵元 34 社から およそ 200 種類の日本酒、焼酎、ビール などが出品。ロサンゼルス近郊の飲料関 係者など昨年を上回るおよそ 1,600 人が 集まった。  2017 年の日本酒の輸出は、金額、数 量ともに過去最高を 8 年連続で更新し、 輸出額は 186 億 7,900 万円。米国は輸出 相 手 先 1 位(60 億 3,900 万 円 ) と な っ ており増加傾向にある。2017 年の日本 からの米国向け清酒(日本酒)輸出量 は 5,780kℓ、 輸 出 額 は 60 億 3,900 万 円 で、10 年前の 2007 年と比べると、量で は 1.5 倍、 金 額 で は 1.7 倍 と な っ て い る。 ま た、2008 年 のリーマン・ショック以降、 2009 年に輸出が落ち込んだ ものの、2010 年には回復基 調となり、2010 年以降増加 傾 向 に あ る。 米 国 が 海 外 か ら輸入するライスワイン(ア ルコール飲料全般で日本酒 含む)の最大の相手国は日本 で、2017 年は輸入量全体の 67.5 %、 輸 入 額 で は 92.8 % を占めている。

 レストラン関係者達は、アルコール飲 料の売上が店全体の売上に大きく影響す るため、日本酒や焼酎に対する関心が高 く。蔵元らの説明を資料を見ながら何度 も飲み比べていた。  フードセクションには、養殖本マグロ、 築地直送の海産物、穀物類、餃子、カレー ライス、ラーメン、うどん、そば、おで ん、味噌汁、甘味類など多数出品し試食 に長い列が出来た。食品以外にも寿司マ シンや食器、包丁などの展示即売も行わ れた。  また、会場内にはステージが設けられ、 ステージプログラムとして大関酒造のセ ミナーなどが行われた。中でも完全養殖 マグロを取り扱う極洋水産が、この日の ために日本から空輸した 170 ポンドのマ グロの解体には多くの参加者がステージ に集まり養殖マグロに対しての関心の高 さが伺われた。その場でさばいたマグロ の刺身の試食には閉会まで長い列が絶え なかった。  JFC インターナショナルの村上宣秀氏 は、 「最近の健康志向の高まりからオー ガニック、ビーガン、グルテンフリー、 ベジタリアンなどの商品の問い合わせが お客様より多く寄せられている。今回 JFC のブースでは、弊社が扱っているそ れらの商品の紹介、試食などを提案し た。また、昨年に引き続き日本産のウイ スキー、ブランデー、ジンなどのハード リカーや新たに日本産地ビールを紹介し た。今後もお客様の要望、希望などを聞 きながら、エンドユーザーの求めるもの を提案して行きたい。また、JFC の持つ 良い日本酒をもっと多くの方に飲んでも らうことと、レストランだけでなく、記 念日などの特別な日に “ 自宅で日本酒で 乾杯 ” するというアプローチをして行き たい」と意欲を見せた。  地元アナハイムで日本食レストランを 経営するステファニー・チェンさんは、 「日本酒はとても奥が深い。純米大吟醸 が飲みやすく、口当たりも良く一番おい しい。にごり酒の甘くて、フルーティー な味わいも気に入った。今日試飲した商 品は、自分の店を出す際の参考になっ た。」と語ってくれた。

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 248

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PROFESSIONALS

Text & Photo: Keiko Fukuda

Soba Izakaya, Minami

Hawaii

Popular with fresh made Soba noodles

Soba Izakaya, Minami

打ち立て蕎麦で人気

24391 Avenida De La Carlota Suite A, Laguna Hills (949) 215-5375 https://www.facebook.com/ pages/category/JapaneseRestaurant/Soba-IzakayaMinami-438038653298633/ 11:30am-2:30pm 5:00pm-10:00pm 7 days open DATA 1. Average Price 客単価 L $17, D $22 2. Monthly Sales 月間売上平均 N/A 3. Food Cost フードコスト (%) 20% 4. Alcoholic Beverage Sales (%)

売上に対するアルコール比率

N/A

5. Alcoholic Beverage Sales by Type アルコール売上高 ( 種類別 ) N/A 6. Target Customer 客層 Local, Business 7. Featured Menu メニューの特徴 Soba, Udon 8. Food Supplier 仕入れ先 Mutual Trading, JFC, Wismettac 9. Number of Staff 従業員数 20 staff 10. Number of Seats 座席数 65 seats 11. Opening Date 開店年月 October, 2018 12. Varieties of Sake in Store

24

取り扱い日本酒の種類数、売れ筋

Dassai50, Okunomatsu

July 2019

Beef Dipping Soba

W

hen a good Japanese restaurant opens, the news spreads very quickly in the Japanese community. A friend of mine who lives in Orange County told me, “A nice restaurant just opened. It is called Soba Izakaya Minami”. After that, I had a chance to have lunch with another friend who lives in Orange County, so I suggested the place. He said, “My wife said she has been there. She thought the food was good”. What a small world! This place is located in the Laguna Hills Shopping Mall, about 45 minutes down south from where I live. Its interior provides a loft-like modern ambience, and does not look like a typical Izakaya. I visited toward the end of peak lunch hour; however, there were still several groups of customers

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enjoying meals. I ordered hot gobo tempura. To my surprise, the server told me that the price would be the same for any 100, 200, or 300g of soba. I thought 100g might not be enough, so I ordered 200g, which was just the right amount. If you really like to fill up, you should order 300g. This unique ordering system, and of course, the flavorful soba and crispy gobo tempura were also pretty impressive, and this place was added to my list of restaurants which I want to visit again. On another day, I visited again to interview the owner, Ray Hattori. Mr. Hattori worked for Asahi Beer for a long time. He retired as the President of its American division. After that, he moved to Orange County, and started working as a restaurant business consultant. He explained to me that he thought he ought to have experience in running a restaurant himself, in order to call himself a consultant, and decided to launch this business by inviting in an enterprise which has been developing a large-scale restaurant chain in Japan as the partner. I asked him why a Soba restaurant, and he replied as follows: “First of all, I wanted to have a restaurant of which Japanese people think “the taste is authentic”. Second of all, there are many various types of Japanese restaurants in Orange County, including a lot of ramen restaurants, but there are only a few soba restaurants.” Before opening this soba restaurant, he worked as both a Lyft and Uber driver for the purpose of finding a good location, and market research. “I talked to the customers about where they were

headed out to, and what they are looking for in a restaurant. By doing so, I was able to get some ideas,” said Mr. Hattori. In fact, people who use transportation services like Lyft to go to restaurants, often have drinking in mind. Thus, Soba Izakaya Minami opened its doors in October of 2018. The reason for its open-feel, high-ceiling structure is that he wanted to give customers an image of a soba factory where freshly made soba is offered. In fact, they start the soba making machine after each order is placed. They really serve freshly made soba. They also serve udon dishes. You can take our udon, but not soba which is dine-in only. They are very particular about the freshness of soba, so you can only have soba in the restaurant. When I made this report, it was about 6 months after the opening. Hattori-san then told me that he was already getting a good vibe. “I am so relieved to know that American customers don’t have much hesitation about soba, unlike what I had expected. Originally, I was aiming for the kind of taste that gives authenticity to Japanese, but as the result, half of our customers have become Americans. I am feeling unexpected happiness.” Besides being a soba restaurant, they are also an izakaya at night. Because Mrs. Hattori is from Okinawa, they have a plan to gradually increase Okinawan cuisine in the menu. I am looking forward to that, too. Naturally, the beer brands they carry are Asahi, which Mr. Hattori worked for a long time, and Orion beer from Okinawa.


CULINARY PROFESSIONALS

Tenpura Soba

美社会の中ですぐに噂が広がる。オ 味しい日本食屋ができると日本人

レンジ郡に住む知り合いに「いい店がで きた。蕎麦居酒屋みなみという名前」と 教えてもらった後、別のオレンジ郡の知 り合いとランチをする時にその店を提案 したところ、 「ワイフが行ったことがあ るらしい。美味しいと言っていた」とい う返事が返ってきた。スモールワール ドだ。  その店は私が住むエリアから 45 分ほ ど南下したラグナヒルズのショッピング モール内にあった。内装は蕎麦屋らしか らぬロフト風のモダンな雰囲気。ランチ のピークが終わった頃に入店したのだ が、それでも数組の客が食事を楽しん でいた。私がオーダーしたのは温かい ごぼう天蕎麦。驚いたのは、サーバー

Gobo Ten Soba

に「 蕎 麦 は 100g、200g、300g の ど の 量でも値段は一緒です」と教えられたこ と。100g だとさすがに足りない気がし て 200 にしてみたが大正解だった。さら にお腹いっぱいになるまで蕎麦を味わ いたいと思う人は 300 にすれば良いだろ う。このユニークなシステムと、そして もちろん風味豊かな蕎麦とサクサクのご ぼう天の印象は抜群で、 「再び訪れたい 店」の一つに加わった。  日を改めてオーナーのレイ・服部さん に話を伺った。服部さんは長年、アサヒ ビールに勤務、米国法人のプレジデント を最後に退職した。その後、オレンジ郡 に引っ越し、レストランビジネスのコン サルタントとしての活動をスタートし た。しかし、コンサルタントを名乗るか らには一度自らレストランを経営すべき

ではないかと考え、日本で大規模な飲食 店チェーンを展開している企業をパート ナーに迎え店を手がけることにしたのだ と説明してくれた。なぜ、蕎麦屋にした のかと聞くと服部さんの答えは次のよう なものだった。 「まず、日本人として『これは本物の味 だね』と言っていただけるような店にし たかったということ。次にオレンジには いろんな日本食店があり、ラーメン店も 多いですが、蕎麦屋があまりないという ことです」  蕎麦屋を開店するに当たり、ロケー ションを探すための市場調査を目的に服 部さんはリフトとウーバーのドライバー になったそうだ。 「お客さんがどこを目 指して出かけるのか、また実際に話をし てみて、彼らが求めているものが何かを

聞くことで参考にさせてもらいました」 と服部さん。確かにリフトのような配車 サービスの利用者はお酒を飲むことを前 提に飲食店に向かうことが多いはずだ。  こうして 2018 年 10 月に蕎麦居酒屋み なみを開店。天井が高い開放的な造りに したのは、新鮮な蕎麦を提供している「蕎 麦工場」のようなイメージを顧客に与え たかったからだそうだ。そして蕎麦は、 オーダーが入ってから製麺機にかける、 まさにフレッシュな打ち立てを出してい る。メニューにはうどんもある。ただし、 テイクアウトはうどんも受け付けるが、 新鮮さにこだわる蕎麦はダインイン限定 にしている。  取材をしたのは開店から半年ほどが 経った頃だったが、既に手応えを感じて いると服部さんは話す。 「アメリカ人の お客さんが思ったよりも蕎麦に抵抗がな いようで安心しています。最初は日本人 が食べても本物だと思っていただける味 を目指していましたが、結果的には顧客 の半分はアメリカ人になったことで想定 外の嬉しさを感じています」。  また、蕎麦屋だけでなく、夜は居酒屋 としての顔を見せる。服部さんの奥様が 沖縄出身ということで、メニューには沖 縄料理を少しずつ増やしていく計画なの だとか。それもまた楽しみだ。ちなみに 同店に置いているビールは服部さんが長 年在籍したアサヒビールと沖縄のオリオ ンビールだということだ。

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 248

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CULINARY

PROFESSIONALS

Text&Photo : Aya Ota (www.bioartsnyc.com)

ZAUO

New York

An innovative concept which never existed in New York before. “ZAUO” where you can eat the fish you have just caught

ZAUO 152 W 24th Street New York, NY 10011 (646) 905-2274 URL: https://zauo-newyork.com/

これまでニューヨークになかった革新的なコンセプト 自分で釣った魚を食べられる『ZAUO』

Daily 5:00pm-10:30pm (Last Order 10:00pm)

DATA

1. Average Price 客単価

$60 to $120 (including drinks, except tax and tip)

2. Monthly Sales 月間売上平均 Over 200 visitors on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays 3. Food Cost フードコスト (%) Approximately 30% 4. Alcoholic Beverage Sales (%)

売上に対するアルコール比率

Approximately15%

5. Alcoholic Beverage Sales by Type アルコール売上高 ( 種類別 ) 60% Sake, The rest includes wine and beer. Very little shochu 6. Target Customer 客層 A wide variety of ethnic groups, ages, and genders. 10 to 20% are Japanese. 7. Featured Menu メニューの特徴 Two core menus: Fishing menu, which caught fish is cooked for, and a-la-carte menu which contains appetizers, sushi, donburi, etc. 8. Food Supplier 仕入れ先 Mutual Trading, True World Foods, Central Trading and JFC International. 9. Number of Staff 従業員数 40 staff 10. Number of Seats 座席数 134 seats. (1-2F) 11. Opening Date 開店年月 October 15, 2018 12. Varieties of Sake in Store

26

取り扱い日本酒の種類数、売れ筋

About 40 kinds: Popular brands are Dassai, Nanbubijin, and Hakkaisan

July 2019

"Z

AUO”, where you can have the fish you have just caught cooked, and eat right there----a restaurant with such an innovative concept which is unprecedented in New York, is the talk of the town now. First, the customer would decide which fish he or she wants to catch. In the restaurant, there are 3 fish tanks, and about 10 different kinds of live seafood items, which alternate every season, are kept there, and consist of rainbow trout, striped-bass, fluke, flounder, lobster, Dungeness crab, abalone, etc. Depending on the kind of fish, the tools and methods of catching differ. Staff called “Fish Attendants” would help you so you don’t need to worry. Once you catch your aimed item, the floor staff cheers for you by hitting a drum. After that, you choose the cooking method of your choice: salt grilled, tempura, simmered in soy sauce, sake-steamed, etc. Half & Half, in which a piece of fish is divided into 2 halves, and one half is used for shabu shabu, and the other half is salt grilled, etc., is especially popular. It makes you

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feel really special that you eat what you just caught which is cooked immediately while it is still fresh. There are additional services such as making miso soup with the fish head and bones, making crunchy senbei of fried fluke or flounder bones, etc. You can taste your caught item in its entirety without wasting any part. Besides the above-mentioned fishing menu, for which the fished items are cooked, they offer a rich variety of a-la-carte menu items such as sushi, sashimi, seafood bowl, salad, and miso soup. You can start fishing right away, or you can enjoy sake and appetizers first, and then challenge yourself to fish. The restaurant has 3 stories. The first floor has lively seating near large fish tanks, private room like spaces, and a bar counter. You can watch fish swimming underneath from the mezzanine floor, or the 2nd floor interior gives you the sense of being on a boat, Whether you are a couple, part of a group, or by yourself, you can enjoy various ambiences by going to different floors. Customers often use this place for family outings with children or for birthday parties. From this June, they have just started using the 3rd floor. It is a quiet space very different from the 1st and 2nd floor, and omakase sushi is served there. I can imagine that in order to realize such an unprecedented concept, they must have experienced a lot of difficulties in building construction and application for permits, etc., on top of gaining the understanding and cooperation of the involved parties. However,

“I never really thought that I was struggling,” says Mr. Takuya Takahashi, President of Zauo Inc. cheerfully. He is also the Vice President of Harbor House Inc. (based in Fukuoka), which has developed 13 “ZAUO”s in Japan. This company was founded in1986, and was originally operated as an apparel business dealing with novelty products and uniforms. They expanded their business, and have developed a total of 20 restaurants besides “ZAUO”s, which include izakaya and teishoku chains. In 2014, when he was visiting New York with his brother, the President of Harbor House Inc., he felt the strong urge to do something in this town full of diversity. Back then, he was doing the market research and looking for locations flexibly without focusing on a particular business model. Then, he decided to develop the “ZAUO” concept, which has a strong, unique characteristic that differs from others. Sometimes, the experience and knowledge he gained from “ZAUO”, Japan, was useful, but some things were totally different in the US. Many customers come for the fishing experience without recognizing the restaurant as a Japanese restaurant, and taste Japanese food or sake for the first time. Some want rice as a side menu item of the western cuisine, so they started to offer it for free. In order to accommodate diversified preferences, restricted diets, and allergies, they offer meats, and vegetarian dishes as well. For those who are not accustomed to eating whole fish, they serve it with no skin and bones to attentively respond to the


CULINARY PROFESSIONALS detailed needs. Moreover, they created a position called “Fish Attendant”, which exists only at this restaurant, and educate the staff for it so they can become confident and take joy in this unique position. Mr. Takahashi himself, who has the determining rights, takes the lead on site, so flexibility and power of actuation is excellent. “I would like to produce joyfulness, focusing on the importance of sense of unity among customers and staff,” says Mr. Takahashi. His quote also holds a wish for having people understand not only the joys of eating something they caught themselves, but also conveying the understanding of expressing gratitude for each precious life to be taken and consumed with respect.

TP-1 100-200 servings/hr

「自てもらう」…これまでニューヨー

分で釣った魚をその場で調理し

クには存在しなかった斬新なコンセプト の店、 『ざうお』が話題だ。  客は来店するとまず、どの魚介類を釣 りたいか決める。店内には 3 カ所のいけ すがあり、ニジマス、シマスズキ、ひらめ、 かれい、ロブスター、ダンジネスクラ ブ、あわびなど、季節ごとに変わるが常 時約 10 種類の魚介類がいる。種類によっ て釣り具や捕獲方法が異なるが、 「フィッ シュ・アテンダント」と呼ばれる店員が 助けてくれるので安心だ。お目当ての魚 介類を釣り上げると、店員が太鼓を叩い て盛り上げてくれる。その後、塩焼き、 天ぷら、煮付け、酒蒸しなど、好みの調 理方法を選んで料理してもらう。特に、 一匹の魚を半身はしゃぶしゃぶ、半身は 塩焼き…という具合に、二通りに調理し てもらう「ハーフ&ハーフ」が人気。自 ら捕獲した魚介類 を、新鮮なまま調 理してもらって食 べる醍醐味は格別 だ。頭部と骨を味 噌汁にしたり、ひ らめやかれいの骨 を揚げて骨せんべ いにしたり…とい う追加サービスも あり、釣果を無駄 なく丸ごと味わい

尽くすことができる。  釣った魚介類を調理してもらうフィッ シング・メニュー以外にも、寿司や刺身、 海鮮丼、サラダ、味噌汁など、アラカル ト・メニューも豊富に用意されている。 来店してすぐに釣り始めてもいいし、お 酒や前菜を少し楽しんでから釣りに挑戦 してもいい。店は 3 階建てのビル全体を 活用した構造で、1 階には、大型のいけ すが近い賑やかな席、個室風の席、バー カウンターがある。足下に泳ぐ魚を眺め られる中 2 階、実際に乗船しているよう な臨場感ある内装の 2 階…カップルでも 団体でも一人でも、フロアや席を変えて 異なる雰囲気を味わえる。子供連れの家 族層や誕生会などに利用されることも多 いという。6 月からは 3 階での営業を開 始し、1 〜 2 階とは全く異なる閑静な空 間で、おまかせ寿司を提供。プライベー トイベントにも対応可能な空間も用意し ている。  これまでに例のない概念を実現するに は、関係者の理解や協力を得ることはも ちろん、建設工事や許認可申請など多く の障害があっただろう。しかし、 「あま り苦労していると感じたことはない」と 明るい笑顔で話す『ZAUO INC.』社長 の高橋拓也氏氏。日本で『釣船茶屋ざう お』を 13 店舗を展開する『株式会社ハー バーハウス』 (本社 : 福岡県)の副社長で もある。1986 年創業の同社は、もとも とノベルティ商品やユニフォームなどの

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アパレル業からスタートしたが、事業を 拡大し、 『ざうお』以外でも居酒屋や定 食屋など複数の業態を含め約 20 店舗を 展開する。2014 年に、高橋氏が社長で ある兄と、市場調査を目的にニューヨー クを訪れていたときに「多様性あふれる この街で何かやりたい」と直観。当初は 業態を絞り込むことなく柔軟に調査や物 件探しを進めていたが、他と差別化でき る強烈な個性を持つ『ざうお』を展開し ようと決断した。日本の『ざうお』での 経験や知識が役立つこともあれば、全く 異なることもあった。釣りをきっかけに、 同店を日本食店と認識せずに来店する客 も多いため、初めて日本食や日本酒を口 にする人もいる。西洋料理のサイドメ ニューのようにご飯を要求する客もいて 無料提供を開始した。多様な嗜好性、食 事制限やアレルギーに対応するべく肉や ベジタリアン料理も提供する。丸ごとの 魚を食べ慣れない客には骨や皮を外して あげるなど、細かい要望にも丁寧に対応 する。また、 「フィッシュ・アテンダント」 という他店にない職種に自信と喜びを感 じられるよう教育をしているという。決 裁権ある高橋氏本人が現場指揮を執って いるため、柔軟性と行動力が抜群だ。  「お客様やスタッフとの一体感を大事 に、楽しさを演出したい」と高橋氏。自 分で釣った魚を食べられる楽しみを伝え るだけでなく、感謝して命をいただくと いう食育の願いも込められている。

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www.jcunitec.com Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 248

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Validation to prepare delicious hot sake 旨いお燗を作るための検証

In Conclusion 終わりに

W

hat led our team to validate ways to prepare delicious sake was due to consumer feedback, “very few restaurants serve delicious hot sake.” While cold sake today is served in various ways in wine glasses, or unfiltered sake served on-the-rocks, hot sake is still mostly heated in commercial sake warmers with few manual work involved, left to the individual’s discretion. To say Japanese sake is the only alcoholic beverage generally heated before consumption would not be an exaggeration. In other words, hot sake is an important style of consumption unique to sake.

Nagata: Hot sake is a preparation method that best capitalizes on the benefits of Japanese sake. First of all, vessels such as tokkuri (ceramic flasks) and choko (small sake cups) used to serve sake are very important to create a ‘Japanese’ presentation. Enjoyed leisurely with meals, hot sake is a gentle way for the body to consume sake,

“a soothing cup” in a true sense that highly compliments the Japanese climate. Today, highly stressed people are quick to consume cold, hot, and spicy dishes, food with high-pressure carbon dioxide, and other foods and beverages high in stimulants at once, perhaps a way to relieve stress. However, as a sake sommelier serving Japanese sake, I’d like to continue recommending hot sake as a gentle, soothing way for the body to enjoy sake.

Kitahara: Many foreign tourists visit my hotel, and their consistent request is always the “authentic Japanese experience.” Of course the tourists are interested in trying Japanese sake with their Japanese cuisine. For such opportunities, I believe serving Japanese sake is the “true style of Japanese hospitality.” However, heated sake referred to as “hot sake” overseas appears to be seen as a low-grade way to enjoy sake. Today’s validation reinforced the importance of the selected sake brand, quality of sake vessel used, and the temperature of the hot water, with each factor capable of dramatically altering

今は、「美味しい燗酒を提供する飲食

回の検証を行うことになった経緯

店が少ない」という一般の方々の指摘を 受けたことに始まります。ワイングラス を使用したり、無濾過生原酒をオンザ ロックで提供したりと、冷酒のサービス は多様化してきましたが、燗酒に関して は、業務用酒燗器まかせにしていたり、 マニュアルもなく、適当に温められてい るといった状況がまだまだ目につきま す。温めて飲むスタイルが、これほど一 般的なお酒は日本酒だけと言っても過言 ではありません。燗酒は、日本酒ならで はの重要な飲用スタイルと捉えるべきと 考えます。

長田:お燗酒は、日本酒の魅力を生かし た飲み方です。まず、徳利や猪口など酒 器との関連性が高く、これらを活用した 「和」の風情を演出することが可能です。 料理と共に、ゆるりと嗜めるお燗は身体 に優しい飲み方と言えるでしょう。ま

the quality of sake served. I’d like to build on this experience and learn the appropriate preparation method to serve delicious hot sake my customers will enjoy.

さに日本の 風土に合っ た「 癒 し の 一杯」。スト レスの高い現代人は外食時に、冷たいも の、熱いもの、辛いもの、炭酸ガス圧の 高いものなど、刺激の強い食品や飲料を 一気に摂取し、ストレス解消をはかる傾 向にありますが、日本酒提供を行う唎酒 師としては、燗という優しくおだやかな 癒しとしてすすめていただきたいと願い ます。 北原:当ホテルにもたくさんの外国人観 光客が来られますが、いつも求められる のは「日本らしさ」。食事にしても、日 本料理と共に、日本のお酒を所望される のは当然のことです。そんな時、お燗酒 のサービスは「日本らしいおもてなし」 に繋がると考えます。ただし、外国で燗 酒は「HOT SAKE」と呼ばれ、グレー ドの低い日本酒の飲み方だと思われてい るのもまた事実。今回の検証のように、 選ぶ日本酒、酒器の材質、お湯の温度、 浸ける時間などによって、クオリティが ガラリと変わる体験を積み重ね、的確な 手法を習得し、お客様に喜んでいただけ るお燗酒のサービスを実行していきたい と思いました。

This article was referred from “Motenashibito May 2017” published by Food & Beverage Specialists Organization. この記事はNPO法人 料飲専門家団体連合会発行の“もてなしびと”2017年5月号からの転載です。

NPO 法人 料飲専門家団体連合会 (FBO)

日本酒サービス研究会・酒匠研究会連合会

Food & Beverage Specialists Organization

SSI International

料飲専門家団体連合会は、飲食の総合プロフェッショナル育成の為に日本ホスピタリティ サービス産業団体(JSC)などの業界団体や大学の観光学科やホテル科等の専門学校を始 めとする様々な教育機関と協力しあい、過去 20 年間にわたり研究教育活動を行っています。

日本の酒である「日本酒」「焼酎」の提供方法の研究を中心に酒類の総 合研究を行い、その教育啓蒙活動を通じて、日本における酒文化の発展 および関連業界の支援、そして日本食文化の継承発展に寄与しています。

http://www.fbo.or.jp/

http://www.ssi-w.com/

The Food & Beverage Specialists Organization has been actively promoting research and education programs for the past 20 years to develop general food and beverage professionals in cooperation with the industrial organizations such as Japan Hospitality Service Industry Group Convention, and various educational institutions led by special schools such as Universities’ tourism departments and hotel departments.

NPO 法人 料飲専門家団体連合会 (FBO) 日本酒サービス研究会・酒匠研究会連合会

28

July 2019

www.alljapannews.com

SSI International conducts research on alcoholic beverages with a main focus on methods of providing Japanese alcoholic beverages, Sake and Shochu, to the world. Through educational campaigns, we aim to diffuse and expand Japanese sake and food culture internationally and to support, inherit, and develop relevant industries.

東京都文京区小石川 1-15-17 TN 小石川ビル 7 階 Tel. 03-5615-8201 Fax. 03-5615-8200 1-15-17 TN Koishikawa Bilding 7F Koishikawa, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo 112-0002 Japan 


74

Chapter 4: The Many Hardships of Expatriates A colleague whom I shared the joys and sorrows of the corporate world with is now calling from the brink of death Anyone has one or two people they can’t forget during their lifetime. Especially for people nearing death, the good memories play back in their minds as they slowly loose consciousness, longing to see the people whom they shared the joys and sorrows of life with. I’ve had four days off, the first days off in a long time. I was planning to go on a golfing trip for 2 nights and 3 days with a few of my golf buddies. We chose south of San Francisco as our destination, a health resort in “Monterey” that overlooks the beautiful white coastline. With several golf courses nearby, golf fans will no doubt get hooked after their initial visit. The bus departs early in the morning at 05:00 AM. I packed my luggage early the night before and went to bed. However, I couldn’t sleep, just like a child the night before a school field trip. I was too excited. I picked up a book in English over sleeping pills, but the book did little tonight to induce sleep. Just then, the phone on the nightstand suddenly rang. “Rrrriiiiing….rrriiiiing….” Who would be calling this late…? I wondered as I glanced at the clock. It was almost 01:00 AM. I suspiciously picked up the receiver. “Hello…? Is this Kumo-chan…?” A friendly lady’s voice almost made my heart skip a beat. It’s been a long time since a lady’s voice referred to me with “-chan” added at the end of my name, a term of endearment during a midnight

駐在員の悲哀 

Yasuo Kumoda Born in Karafuto in 1941. Raised in Hokkaido. Graduated Aoyama Gakuin University in 1965 and joined Morinaga Milk Industry Co Ltd. Went to IPC in Denmark as a university in 1971. Resumed his career in 1973 and joined the new product development division where he developed Bifidus milk. Joined the international division afterwards and participated in the project to preserve tofu long-term. Assigned to the U.S. to start a local company in 1985. Founded the Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. in May 1985, and assumed the post of President. In 2005, left the post of President and assumed an advisory role.

colleague with whom I shared our joys 「もしもし、雲チャンですか?」 and sorrows with, when he is at the brink  親しげな女性の声に一瞬ドキリとする。 真夜中の電話で「チャン」付きで呼ばれる of death. I left a message with my wife to ことはこの十数年なかった。まして女性と apologize for my sudden cancellation as なると思い浮かばない。寝入りばなを邪魔 I forced my way onto the soonest avail- されたこともあって不機嫌な声で対応して able flight to Narita Airport. The eleven いたらしく、 「東京の安田です。スミマセン。 hours to Narita seemed very long, so 海外への電話は初めてなので……」とえら long that it was maddening. My old col- く恐縮している。 league M was waiting at Customs Exit at 「あのー、安田が危篤なんです。うわ言の Narita Airport. 中でも『雲チャン、雲チャン』と言うもん “President Yasuda doesn’t have much ですから……できればと思って……」 time left. Let’s rush to the hospital.”  もう最後は涙声で聞こえない。急いで記 I immediately understood why he 憶の糸を手繰った。私が森永乳業に入社し、 was waiting to greet me at the airport. 販売部に配属になって初めての大口お得意 “Please Mr. Yasuda, please hold on a 先だった牛乳屋の安田商店のことを思い出 little longer.” I prayed in my mind as we した。森永の有力牛乳販売店のオーナーの rushed to the city by car. However, the 娘婿で、有名建築家から牛乳屋へ転身した traffic was jammed, perhaps due to an 異色の人。とにかく会ったときから妙にウ accident, not budging an inch forward. I マがあった。2 人は食べ物、趣味、女性の become increasingly irritated.

phone call. I couldn’t think of a lady who would call me. I must’ve sounded a little disgruntled from being awakened from my semi-sleep state, as the lady replied in very apologetic, formal tone, “This is Yasuda in Tokyo, I’m calling about my husband. I’m sorry to be calling this late, it’s my first time calling overseas…” She continued, “Um, Yasuda is on his death bed. In his semi-conscious state, he keeps uttering your name, ‘Kumo-chan, Kumochan.’ So I wanted to reach you if at all possible…” I couldn’t hear the rest of her words as she broke into tears. I rushed to recall my memory of this person. I was hired 苦楽をともにした同志が by Morinaga Milk Industry Co., Ltd., 生死の狭間で呼んでいる was assigned to the Sales Department, where my first major client was Yasuda  人は誰でも人生の中で忘れられない人が Store. The son-in-law to the daughter of 1 人や 2 人はいるものだ。特にこの世の別 the Morinaga Milk Retail Store owner, れが近づいている人は、朦朧とした意識の Mr. Yasuda had a unique background of 中でも人生で一番楽しかった思い出がよみ transitioning from a renowned architect がって、苦楽を分け合った仲間に無性に会 to a managing a milk store. We got along いたくなるという。 from the very first moment we met, as we  久し振りの四連休。私は気の知れたゴル had so much in common from the food フ仲間と 2 泊 3 日のゴルフバス旅行の予定 we liked, our hobbies, down to our taste だった。目的地はサンフランシスコの南、 in women. We both like very spicy food, 白い海岸線が美しい保養地 “ モントレー ”。 and for beverages, we like our beers so ゴルフ場もいくつかあって、一度行ったら cold that the icy temperature would give 病みつきになるところ。バスの出発が恐ろ us brain freeze to the top of our heads. しく早い朝の 5 時。前の晩は早々に荷物を We also like our sake very hot. パックしてベッドに入る。 Mr. Yasuda’s wife had called to ask  しかし、どうも子供のころの遠足の前夜 if I could come visit her husband one みたいで、寝つかれない。興奮しているの last time while he is still somewhat conだ。睡眠薬代わりの英語の本を見ても、今 scious. Unable to sleep, I waited until 日はその効き目がない。突然枕元の電話が daybreak when my wife asked pressingly, なった。 “So you’ve decided to cancel your golf 「トルルル……トルルル……」 trip and go to Japan, right?” She already read my mind. One of my principles as  こんな真夜中に誰が……と思って時計を Mr. Tofu is to never ignore a fellow col- 見たらもう午前 1 時。不審に思ったが受話 league when called upon, especially a 器を取った。

好みまですべて同じだった。食べ物では超 辛い料理が大好きで、飲み物の場合、ビー ルなら頭のテッペンまで痛くなるような冷 たいもの、お酒なら超熱燗。。  奥さんの電話は、ご主人が意識のあるう ちにぜひ会いに来て欲しいということらし い。寝つけず夜明けを待っていたら「ゴル フ旅行はキャンセルして日本行きに決めた のね」と、念を押すように女房が言う。女 房は私の心をすでに読んでいた。ミスター・ トーフの信条として、苦楽を共にした同志、 仲間が生死の谷間で呼んでいるのに、ほっ ておけるはずがない。  ゴルフ仲間に突然の失礼を詫びる伝言を 妻に託して、成田行きのフライトにもぐり 込んだ。  成田までの 11 時間はとても長かった。 狂いそうに長かった。成田空港の税関出口 で昔の仲間の M 氏が待っていた。到着を 知らせていないのに。 「安田社長が危ないんだ。早く病院へ行こ う」 出迎えはそういうことだったのかと悟る。 「安田社長、がんばって」と心で祈りなが ら、都心へ向かう高速道路を飛ばした。し かし、どこかで事故が起きたのか、ちっと も前に進まない。イライラは募る。

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 248

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