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The Magazine for Food Professionals in the U.S.A.

March 2019

祝!

Vol. 29 No.244 $5.00

2013年 “和食 ” ユネスコ無形文化遺産登録

Japanese Cuisine Designated intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO

Taste local Hida-region cuisine and sake in an old Japanese house-like atmosphere 飛騨地方の郷土料理と地酒を、 古民家のような雰囲気で味わう

Interview with Tetsugo Nakagawa

Senior Managing Director of JFC Japan Inc.

California Sake Challenge Held カリフォルニア・サケ・チャレンジ開催

Los Angeles, CA Permit No. 32641

PRSRT STD U.S. Postage PAID

www.alljapannews.com

インタビュー

FCジャパン株式会社専務取締役

中川哲悟氏


k with NINBEN! Let's coo

Teriyaki Recipe with

Tsuyu no moto 照り焼きレシピ 〜 ! ン タ ン カ で 素 の ゆ つ 〜

Basic Teriyaki Sauce

Teriyak i is sandwic good for h and als , rice bowl, o obent o!

基本の照り焼きのたれ

[ 2 SERVINGS]

+ NINBEN "Tsuyu no moto" … 2tbsp にんべんつゆの素…大さじ2

NINBEN “Tsuyu no moto” Honey … 1tbsp

はちみつ…大さじ1

Basic Teriyaki Recipe THE INGREDIENTS / 2 SERVINGS Basic Teriyaki Sauce *Ingredients of your choice [Fish, meat, vegetable, etc.] *Proper amount of vegetable oil 基本の照り焼きのたれ…上記の全量 *お好きな食材 (魚・肉・野菜、 なんでも♪) *サラダ油…適量

METHOD 1. Put the ingredients of your choice and Basic teriyaki sauce in a Ziploc and leave it for 10-30 minutes. ジップロックにお好きな食材と 基本の照り焼きのたれを入れ、 10〜30分漬けておく。

2. Heat a skillet on medium heat, add the oil and cook the ingredients of your choice. When it turns brown, turn it over, and steam it with a lid. *You will use the sauce in a Ziploc later. Please keep it.

フライパンにサラダ油を中火で熱し、食材を焼く。色よく焼けたら裏返し、 蓋をして蒸し焼きにする。※ジップロックに残っているタレは後ほど使います。

3. Add the sauce in a Ziploc in a skillet. Mix the whole gently until it reduces into half. Done!

2に漬け汁を加えて煮詰めて全体に絡める。出来上がり!

Cooking sake … 1tbsp 酒…大さじ1

To bring out 100% of good flavor of the bonito flakes, Ninben created “Tsuyu no Moto” using a well- balanced soy sauce and our original manufacturing method. It can be used for a wide variety of dishes such as noodle soup, dipping sauce for tempura, simmered dishes, rice bowls, or you can make your own japanese dressing.

High volume    but healthy !

Teriyaki Tofu THE INGREDIENTS / 2 SERVINGS Basic Teriyaki Sauce *1 block… Firm tofu *Optional … Salt and pepper *Proper amount of potato starch *Proper amount of vegetable oil

基本の照り焼きのたれ…上記の全量

*木綿豆腐…1丁 *塩・こしょう…少々 (お好みで) *片栗粉…適量 *サラダ油…適量

METHOD 1. Drain the tofu. *When you are in hurry, wrap the tofu in a paper towel, and microwave it at 500W for 3 minutes without a plastic wrap.

木綿豆腐の水分を切る。 ※キッチンペーパーで包み、ラップをせずに、 電子レンジ500wで3分温めるとあっという間です。

2.

2. Cut 1 into bite-size pieces.Season it with salt and pepper [optional], and coat it with potato starch.

1の木綿豆腐をお好みの大きさに切り、軽く塩・ こしょうをふり掛け、まんべんなく片栗粉をまぶす。

3. Heat a large skillet and add the oil. Brown the tofu on both sides gently.

3.

フライパンを熱してサラダ油を入れ、2の両面を焼く。

4. Add Basic teriyaki sauce and cook it for 1-2 minutes. Done! 基本の照り焼きのたれを入れ豆腐に絡める。 出来上がり!

4.


CONTENTS

March 2019 Vol. 29, No. 244

(電子版では12ページ部分が中国語、韓国語に翻訳されてます。 よければご意見ください。alljapannews@gmail.comまでお願いします)

(在電子版中,12頁部分被翻譯成中文。如果可以的話,請給我們意見。請聯繫alljapannews@gmail.com) (전자 버전에서는 12 페이지 부분이 한국어로 번역되어 있습니다. 괜찮으시다면 alljapannews@gmail.com으로 연락주시기 바랍니다.)

17 Tokyo Jizake Strolling The latest availability of sake in Poland 東京地酒散歩 ポーランドの日本酒事情

18

“How to Create a One-Of-A-Kind Izakaya Restaurant, Creating an Organization Like None Other” as Revealed by 22 Founders

SPECIAL INTERVIEW

08

Interview with Tetsugo Nakagawa, Senior Managing Director of JFC Japan Inc. インタビュー JFCジャパン株式会社  専務取締役 中川哲悟氏

12

SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB Food and Japanese sake pairing

日本酒と食のペアリング

14

California SaKe Challenge 137: First time in the world!! A toast was given with Awa sake during an official party overseas!! Part 1 酒豪大陸137: 世界初!!海外のパーティーで awa酒で乾杯!! その1

NEWS / TREND

07

California Sake Challenge Held

20 Sommelier Talk 61 / Kanzake & Pairing with Seasonal Foods ソムリエトーク 61話 / 燗酒に合う料理

28 Tochigi Rice & Strawberry Tasting Event - A tasting event of rice and strawberries of Tochigi Prefecture was held 栃木県のお米といちご試食会 開催

22

CULINARY PROFESSIONAL Taste Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki in the US!

広島のお好み焼きをアメリカで

24 A long-established sushi restaurant loved by the region -Sustaining while changing-

カリフォルニア・サケ・チャレンジ開催

地域に愛される寿司の老舗 ―変わりながら持続するー

10 Winter Fancy Food Show 2019 in San Francisco

26 Taste local Hida-region cuisine and sake in an old Japanese house-like atmosphere

ウインター・ファンシー・フードショー サンフランシスコで開催

飛騨地方の郷土料理と地酒を、 古民家のような雰囲気で味わう

15

What is “Kuchikami-sake”

酒の起源といわれる「ロ噛み酒」とは何か

16 Sake Shochu Beer Institute of America Healthy way to enjoy sake 米国酒焼酎麦酒研究所 / 健康的な飲み方

6

社長22人が明かす「オンリーワンの店づくり、 わが社ならではの組織づくり」

March 2019

www.alljapannews.com

29

A GROBAL CHALLENGE They Call Me “Mr. Tofu”

豆腐バカ世界に挑む

All Japan News, Inc. 1467 W. 178th Street. Suite 201 Gardena, CA 90248 Tel: (213) 680-0011 Fax: (213) 680-0020 E-mail: AllJapanNews@gmail.com ©2019 All Japan News Inc. All rights reserved.

Publisher All Japan News Inc Managing Editor David Kudo Editor-in-Chief Hiroshi Kawabata Designer Ritsuko Lynch Contributing Writers Keiko Fukuda, Kosuke Kuji Yasuo Kumoda, Yuji Matsumoto Aya Ota, Elli Sekine Special Thanks to JETRO / JETAASC

We’re Member of Japan Business Association, Japanese Chamber of Commerce of Southern California, Hollywood Chamber of Commerce, Japanese Restaurant Association of America and Supporters Conference for WASHOKU.

ジャパニーズ・レストランニュース 北米には 25,000 店を越す日本食レス トランがあります。その勢いは和食が ユネスコ無形文化遺産に登録されたこ ともありさらに伸びています。本誌は この日本食レストラン業界にスポット をあて、何が流行っているのか、また 繁盛店の紹介を通し、繁盛店のオペ レーションや時代を生き抜くヒントを 紹介します。最新の話題店舗や人気商 品などを紹介し、日本食レストランの 繁盛を応援します。また、アメリカの 最新の食品衛生管理に関する情報など も提供し業界の発展に寄与します。

Mission of Japanese Restaurant News In North America, over 25,000 Japanese restaurants are in business. This momentum is increasing even more since Japanese cuisine was recognized by UNESCO as one of the world’s intangible cultural heritages. This magazine spotlights the Japanese restaurant industry to introduce the latest trends and successful restaurants along with their operations to provide hints on how to survive the competitive restaurant industry. Further, this magazine introduces the latest restaurants garnering attention and popular products, along with the prosperity of Japanese restaurants. Lastly, this magazine also introduces the latest information on food sanitation and management to contribute to the development of the Japanese restaurant industry as a whole.


NEWS TRENDS

Text by Keiko Fukuda

“California Sake Challenge” Held

“ カリフォルニア・サケ・チャレンジ ” 開催

From left: David Kudo, All Japan News / Michelle Garcia, Ms.Sake / Andy Schick, Mr. Sake

Patrick J. Furey Mayor, City of Torrance

T

o celebrate the beginning of 2019, Japanese sake sampling event “California Sake Challenge” was held lavishly in the South Bay region at the Miyako Hybrid Hotel in Torrance, Calif., on January 12, attended by over 200 attendees. This event, organized by All Japan News – publisher of Japanese Restaurant News, a monthly magazine on the North American Japanese Restaurant industry – was held with cooperation from JFC International, Inc., distributor of Japanese sake; food trading companies Mutual Trading Co., Inc. and Wismettac Asian Foods, Inc. and food manufacturers such as Ozeki Sake (U.S.A.), Inc., Sapporo U.S.A., Inc., Hakutsuru Sake of America, Inc., Yaegaki Corporation of U.S.A., Gekkeikan Sake (U.S.A.), Inc., Sho Chiku Bai, etc. On the event of the day, Japanese sake fans started to gather before the venue was scheduled to open at 2:00 PM. Guests received a form listing all fifty-three Japanese sake selections, and visited each booth to sample every product. Also, the patio space leading to the venue is lined by food stalls serving okonomiyaki (Japanese-style thin meat and/ or seafood and vegetable pancakes)

Douglas Erber, President, Japan America Society of SC.

and takoyaki (wheat flour-based octopus balls) from Otafuku, oden (Japanese fish cake stew) from Kibun, yakitori (chargrilled chicken and vegetable skewers) from Shin Sen Gumi, and miso soup from Miyako Oriental Foods. As if enticed by the aromatic aroma of chargrilled yakitori, long lines formed before the yakitori booth. Other than sampling, the ceremony to break open every sake barrel for the Japanese sake brands was attended by Torrance Mayor Patrick J. Furey and Satoshi Okawa, President of the Japan Business Association of Southern California. Live performances of Japanese musical instruments and the Mr. and Ms. Sake Competition were held. Five male and female candidates were nominated as Mr. and Ms. Sake, consisting of volunteers and

2

019 年 の 始 ま り を 祝 し、1 月 12 日、 カリフォルニア州トーランス市の都 ハイブリッドホテルを会場にサウスベイ 地域では初めての日本酒の試飲イベン ト、“ カリフォルニア・サケ・チャレンジ ” が 200 人以上の参加者で盛況のうちに開 催された。全米日本食業界紙ジャパニー ズレストランニュースの発行元、オール ジャパンニュース社主催による同イベン トは、日本酒を扱う JFC インターナショ ナル、共同貿易、ウイズメタックアジア ンフーズをはじめとする食品商社や大 関、サッポロビール、白鶴、八重垣酒造、

nominations named by others, with each candidate giving an introduction and a speech on the appeal of Japanese sake. Popular vote named Andy Schick as Mr. Sake, and Michelle Garcia as Ms. Sake.

月桂冠、松竹梅などメーカーの協力を得 て実現した。  当日、日本酒ファンたちは開場時間 の午後 2 時を待たずに続々と集まり始め た。来場者らは全 53 種類の日本酒の名 前が記された記入表を受け取り、会場内 の各ブースでそれぞれの商品をテイス ティングして回った。また、会場につな がるパティオスペースでは、おたふくの お好み焼きとたこ焼き、紀文のおでん、 新撰組の焼き鳥、そして都オリンタル フーズの味噌汁が振舞われる食の屋台も 出店。特に炭焼きの香ばしい香りに誘わ れるように、焼き鳥の前には長蛇の列が できた。  試飲以外にも、各日本酒ブランドの樽 をステージ上に贅沢に並べた鏡割りには パトリック・フーレイ トーランス市長 や日本企業の団体である南カリフォル ニア日系企業協会の大川 智会長も参加。 和楽器によるライブパフォーマンス、ま たミスター・アンド・ミス・サケのコン ペティションも行われた。ミスター・ア ンド・ミス・サケは、会場から自薦他薦 によって男女各 5 人の候補者を募り、壇 上で自己紹介と日本酒の魅力をスピーチ した上で、人気投票が行われた。そして、 ミスター・酒にはアンディ・シックさん、 そしてミス・酒にはミッシェール・ガル シアさんが輝いた。

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 244

7


SPECIAL INTERVIEW

Interview with Tetsugo Nakagawa Senior Managing Director of JFC Japan Inc.

JFC ジャパン株式会社 専務取締役 中川哲悟氏

8

March 2019

JRN: Thank you very much for your time today considering your busy schedule. The second “Japan’s Food” Expo Fair will be held this year. Since Japanese cuisine was registered as UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage, what is the future direction for Japanese cuisine? Nakagawa: As Japanese food products improve in advanced nations like Japan and the U.S., the demand for high-end cuisine is anticipated to increase. More specifically, we’re expecting the demand for high-quality, high-priced food products such as broiled eel, tempura, etc., to increase. In Southeast Asian nations such as Myanmar and Cambodia, etc., the demand for economically priced Japanese food products are expected to increase, where Japanese cuisine was

not previously offered. However, since we’re seeing a significant increase among the affluent population, the demand for high-end food products is anticipated to increase rapidly. In these markets, the speed of polarization will advance faster than in advanced nations like the U.S. and Europe. JRN: Japanese restaurants operating overseas exceeded 110,000 businesses. In the U.S., American grocery chains are increasing the variety of Japanese food products offered, exceeding 18,000 restaurants in operation in North America. What is your strategy? Nakagawa: The process to promote Japanese cuisine locally for widespread consumption starts with the first and important step of raising awareness of Japanese cuisine through restaurants. In other words, we take our time

to get local consumers accustomed to Japanese cuisine over a long period of time. This way, local consumers eventually start purchasing Japanese food products at Japanese-affiliated and Asian grocery stores. As the demand for Japanese food products increase, the products will eventually start to line the shelves in local (American) grocery stores, which drastically increases sales of Japanese food products. One great example is Japanese sake, beer, and edamame products. We’re looking forward to increasing our product line-up. In Europe, where Japanese food products are still sold in specialized stores, the market is still in the early stages of expanding. In the U.S. where Japanese food products are already widespread, the food quality is high, while competitive pricing is a must. We’re looking to

JRN:今日はお忙しいところ有難うご ざいます。“ 日本の食品 ” 輸出 EXPO も 2 回目になります。ユネスコ無形文化遺産 に登録された和食は、今後どのような方 向に進むのでしょうか。 中 川: 欧 米 先 進 国 で は 高 級 化 が 進 み、 高級食材への需要が増大すると思いま す。具体的には鰻蒲焼や天ぷら等、高価 格且つ高品質な物への需要が増すと思い ます。これまでほとんど日本食がなかっ たミャンマーやカンボジアなどの東南ア ジアでは、引き続き手頃な価格帯の日本 食材への需要が増えると思いますが、同 時に富裕層の増加が著しいので、高級食 材への需要拡大も急速に進むと考えま す。これらの市場では欧米先進国以上の 速さで二極化へと進むでしょう。 JRN:海外の日本食レストランが 11 万店を突破しました。米国でも米系グロ サリーで日本食品の取り扱いが増え、北 米の日本食レストラン数は 18,000 店突 破と言われていますが、対策は? 中川:日本食が現地に浸透するプロセス として、まずはレストランを通じて日本 食の認知度を高める事が重要です。現地 の方に長い時間をかけて日本食に慣れ親 しんでいただくわけです。そうすると現 地の方が日系やアジア系グロサリーで日 本食品を買うようになります。需要が増 えていくと、 最終的には現地系 ( 米系 ) グロサリーに陳列されるようになりま す。こうなると、( その日本食品の ) 売上

は一気に拡大します。その良い例が日本 酒やビール、枝豆です。そのような商品 を増やしていきたいと思います。日本食 がまだ主に専門店で売られている段階の ヨーロッパはこれからの市場ですし、既 に日本食がかなり浸透している米国では 品質が良いのは当たり前で、価格競争力 も必須ですので、日本メーカーが中国な どで現地生産した ”Made by Japan” 商 品の開発に注力したいと思います。 JRN:北米、ヨーロッパ、アジアへの 農産物輸出の方針、対策は? 現在拡大 している分野、及びこれから力を入れて いきたい部門など。 中川:地域によって違いますが、現地系 グロサリーが日本食やオリエンタル食に 力を入れているので、そこに並べてもら える商品に力を入れたいと思います。 JRN:日本食と酒の現状と将来性、農 水省および、ジェトロ、リードエグジビ ションジャパンとの今後具体的なイベン トについて。 中川:他社も含め北米に 20 か所以上ネッ トワークを張っている我々のような流通 企業をもっと利用していただければ、農 産物、果物、牛肉なども確実に伸びるは ずです。 J R N: 北 米 で 日 本 酒 を 500 種 類 以 上 扱っていると聞いておりますが、日本酒 に関する活動をお知らせ下さい。 中川:アメリカでは日本酒の歴史も古く、 まずホット酒から始まりました。近年日

本産地酒も伸びています。最近ではつい に現地で生産を始めるアメリカ人も出て きたと聞きます。中国では現地産の日本 酒も多いですが、あまり使われていませ ん。アジア全体に言えるのですが、日本 産などの輸入品が良いと言われ、高級品 として接待に使われます。台湾、韓国、 中国では特にその傾向が強いです。日本 酒は市場によって要望に差があるので、 地域毎に最適な商品戦略を考えたいと思 います。 JRN:ヨーロッパでは現地産日本ビー ルがおいしくて人気がありますが、現地 で日本酒の展示即売も検討されています か? 中川:現地の展示即売なども良いのでは ないでしょうか。しかし、メーカーさん も現地でバイヤーから少量のオーダーが 入っても流通企業が入っていないと配送 ができません。メーカーと流通企業が共 に協力し、政府の支援もあるとうまく進 められるでしょう。

www.alljapannews.com

JRN:最後に読者に一言お願いいたし ます。 中川:全世界的に日本食レストラン、日 本食品はまだまだ伸びる余地がありま す。メーカー、政府関係機関、流通が各々 の持ち場をしっかりと守り、仕事を補い 合う事が重要であると考えます。 JRN:ありがとうございました。


focus our efforts on developing products “made by Japan” produced locally by Japanese manufacturers in the U.S. and China, etc. JRN: What are your objectives and strategies to export agricultural products to North America, Europe, and Asia? What fields and departments are you currently expanding, or planning to expand in the future? Nakagawa: Our efforts are different according to each region, but since local grocery chains are focusing their efforts in offering oriental food products, we’re looking to develop products to line their shelves. JRN: What is the current status and future outlook for Japanese cuisine and sake? What specific events are you coordinating with the Japanese Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, JETRO, and Reed Exhibitions Japan, Ltd.? Nakagawa: We’re looking to have these agencies and other companies utilize our distribution network across 20 regions in North America to ensure increased sales in agricultural products, fruits, and beef products, etc.

TP-1 100-200 servings/hr

JRN: Your company is said to distribute over 500 brands of Japanese sake products in North America. Please elaborate on your distribution of Japanese sake products? Nakagawa: The U.S. has a long history of producing and consuming Japanese sake that started with the consumption of hot sake. Recently, jizake (regional sake produced in Japan) sales are increasing as well. I’m starting to hear that increasing number of American sake producers is producing their own sake brands locally. While many Japanese sake brands are increasingly producing their sake locally in China, very few brands are actually consumed mainstream because of the widespread understanding throughout Asia that imported sake produced in Japan, etc., are high-quality, high-end products served to entertain business clients, a trend especially noticeable in Taiwan, Korea, and China. Since there is a difference in demand for Japanese sake depending on the market, we’d like to come up with sake products suitable for each region. JRN: Japanese beer products produced

locally in Europe are delicious and popular. Are you considering any plans to exhibit Japanese beers locally in Europe to sell these products directly to purchasers following the exhibitions? Nakagawa: I think local exhibitions followed by direct sales are a good idea. However, even if beer producers have a small quantity of orders placed from local buyers, these products cannot be delivered without a distribution company in place. Beer producers and distributors must cooperate together with support from government agencies to ensure success.

JRN: What is your message to our readers? Nakagawa: There is still plenty of room for growth for Japanese restaurants and food products to expand globally. I feel it’s important for food producers, government-affiliated agencies, and distributors to each have clarified roles and responsibilities they adhere to in order to support each other to ensure a successful outcome. JRN: Thank you very much for your time.

Sanuki Menki Noodle Makers

Electric Noodle Boiler for Udon

TP-2 250-500 servings/hr

OMG-985

(低電圧式焼物器)

JFC Japan Inc. JFC Japan Inc. originated as Pacific Trading Company (present-day JFC International Inc.), a California-based corporation established in 1912 to provide Japanese people living in San Francisco with Japanese food. In 1928, Pacific Trading Inc. (present-day JFC Japan Inc.) was founded in Tokyo as a hub of export from Japan. Since then, we have helped deliver products manufactured by vendors with the greatest care to consumers in over 40 countries on the five continents by using the JFC Group’s network, which is spreading in the United States and countries worldwide. JFC ジャパン株式会社

1912 年米国サンフランシスコに現地 邦人への日本食材供給を目的に創立さ れたカリフォルニア州法人パシフィッ ク・トレーディング・カンパニー ( 現 JFC イ ン タ ー ナ シ ョ ナ ル ) に 端 を 発 し、 日本からの輸出拠点として、 太 平洋貿易株式会社 ( 現 JFC ジャパン株 式会社 ) を 1928 年東京に設立。以来、 米 国 を は じ め 世 界 各 地 に 展 が る JFC グループのネットワークを活用し 5 大 陸 40ヵ国以上の消費者へ商品を届け ている。

Smokeless Griller

90秒で850℃ 煙の出ない 焼き台

San-Ei Noodle Boiler w/Auto Lifter

Electric Noodle Boiler & Soup Warmer

NSU6-6OH (Gas)

3 Temperature Settings

OPB-110B

Noodle Vacuum Dryer JTR-2000

Electric Fryer OF-18WN

麺の調理と つゆ保温の 1台2役

J.C. uni-tec, Inc.

Tel:(310)323-5299 Fax:(310) 323-1503 1467 W. 178th Street, Suite 301, Gardena, CA 90248

油槽が浅く お手入れ簡単! 廃油が少ない!

www.jcunitec.com Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 244

9


NEWS TRENDS

Text & Photo: Elli Sekine

Winter Fancy Food Show 2019 ウインター・ファンシー・フードショー 2019 開催

T

hrough the recent 3 days from January 13 to 15, the largest food event in the US, “Winter Fancy Food Show”, was held at the Moscone Center in San Francisco. About 80,000 products by nearly 1,400 food companies and makers were shown, samples were offered, etc., at this new event hall that was just expanded recently. The event closed its doors very successfully after filling the venue every day with a lot of people. At the “Japan Pavilion”, a special event hall, set up for the 8th time by JETRO as a part of their efforts in the “Integrated Export Support Project” for the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, 40 Japanese American food companies exhibited their booths to promote Japanese healthy and delicious products. What especially stood out this year were health-conscious products such as additive-free, animal-free, and glutenfree foods. Among them, many people were particularly drawn to “healthy noodles” such as “Vegetable Somen” (ITSUKIFOODS), “Samurai Ramen”, ramen noodle for vegans (Higashimaru Co), “Base Pasta”, a complete nutritious food, “Gluten-free Ramen” made with Akita Komachi rice (Ogata Village Akitakomachi), and “Yamamotokanjino dry soba noodle”. There was even an authentic Hokkaido ramen booth by

10

March 2019

Nishiyama Seimen, where a new restaurant manager position was being recruited, and so many people were trying their samples. At the traditional Japanese sweets corner, 9 companies including GINBIS, best known for their “Asparagus Biscuits”, and Seika Foods, best known for their “Botan Ame”, were gathered, and well received for their brands of sweets that have already gained popularity in the US. The packages designed with popular Japanese anime characters were also intriguing people there. Gekkeikan, the only Japanese sake maker amongst this year’s Japan Pavilion exhibitors, strongly showed their quality as a long-established sake maker with their Japan-made sake brewed with Kyoto’s high-quality water, California-made Japanese sake, etc. A wide variety of their sake brands offered free to the visitors were received extremely well. The flavored sparkling sake was particularly popular among Americans. Outside of the Japan Pavilion, already familiar brands in the US such as JFC International, Marukome, ITOEN, and MORINAGA, were attracting a lot of buyers, which implied how popular Japanese food really is.

www.alljapannews.com

1 月北米最大となる食イベント、「ウ

13 日 か ら 15 日 ま で の 3 日 間、

インター・ファンシー・フードショー 2019」がサンフランシスコ、モスコー ニセンターにて開催された。最近拡張工 事を終えたばかりの新会場には、世界各 国から約 1,400 の食企業、メーカーの約 80,000 商品が展示、試食され、連日大 盛況で幕を閉じた。  今回で 8 回目となる農林水産省「輸出 総合サポートプロジェクト」の一環とし てジェトロが設置した「ジャパン・パビ リオン」特設会場には、日系食企業 40 社がそれぞれ個性的なブースを出展し、 日本の健康で美味しい商品をアピールし ていた。  今年特に目立ったのは、健康食を意識 した無添加やアニマルフリーの加工食 品、グルテンフリー麺などで、 「野菜そ うめん」 (五木食品 )、ビーガン食のラー メン麺「サムライラーメン」 (株式会社 ヒガシマル)、完全栄養食の「ベースパ

スタ」 (ベースフー ド 株 式 会 社 )、 秋 田 小町米で作った「グ ルテンフリーラーメ ン」 (株式会社大潟 村 あ き た こ ま ち )、 “山 本 か じ の”の 乾 燥そば麺など “ 健康 麺 ” が注目を浴びて いた。また新店主を 募った本格派北海道 ラーメン製麺(西山 製麺)もブースに初 登場し、試食には多くの人が集まった。  日本伝統のお菓子のコーナーでは、 「ア スパラガスビスケット」に代表されるギ ンビスや「ボタンアメ」に代表されるセ イカ食品など9社が集結し、すでにアメ リカでも人気を得ているブランド菓子が 評価されていた。中には日本の人気のア ニメキャラクターをプリントしたパッ ケージもあり来場者の興味をそそった。  今回ジャパン・パビリオン内では唯一 の日本酒メーカーだった月桂冠では、京 都の上質な水を使った国産地酒からカリ フォルニア産地酒まで老舗メーカーの品 質をアピールした。振舞われた多種類は 酒ファンのから絶賛され、中でもフレー バー付きのスパークリング酒がウケて いた。    また、パビリオン外では、JFC インター ナショナル、マルコメ、伊藤園、森永な ど北米ですでに馴染みのブランドが大勢 のバイヤーを集め、日本食の人気の高さ をうかがわせていた。


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s @Los Angeleke Meetup a Japanese s KIKISAKE-SHI

唎酒師

Honorary Sake Sommelier & Saka-Sho

Honorary Sake Sommelier

SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB Info All Japan News, Inc. /

Kosei Yamamoto

Takayuki Kanai

Katsuya Uechi

President Mutual Trading Company Inc

Chairman & President Wismettac Asian Foods, Inc

Chairman Katsuya Group

Honorary Sake Sommelier & Saka-Sho Honorary Sake Sommelier & Saka-Sho Honorary Sake Sommelier & Saka-Sho

Sake Shochu Beer Institute of America (213) 680-0011, AllJapanNews@gmail.com

Rick Smith & Hiroko Furukawa

Honorary Sake Sommelier & Saka-Sho

日本酒と食のペアリング

Yuji Matsumoto Master Sake Sommelier

Finalist of the 2nd World Sake Sommelier Competition. Graduated from Keio University Faculty of Law, Department of Political Science. Worked for Nomura Securities for 10 years. Former president of California Sushi Academy Former chief of planning dept. at Mutual Trading.

David Kudo Sake Sommelier Master Sake Sommelier

Born Kita-Akita City, Akita Prefecture. Emigrated from the nation of sake to the nation of whiskey, employed by a major Japanese-affiliated insurance company for twenty-five years before starting his own business. Many cases of sushi rice disposed following inspections by the Board of Health were reported among rapidly increasing sushi bars. The Japanese Restaurant Association was launched with a food distribution company in 1999 to face off with the Board of Health, and after four years of petitions, won the procedural change from temperature management to PH management. Took over as Executive Officer of the Japanese Food Trend News founded in 1991, when the predecessor was assigned back to Japan. Currently distributed as Japan Restaurant News (20,000 issues published electronically) in North America, Japan, and Southeast Asia.

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March 2019

specially when it comes to pairing Japanese sake with food, many people likely think, “What’s with the exaggeration…? It doesn’t really matter.” In this issue, I’d like to pass on to our readers a trick that enhances one’s abilities to pair sake with food. First, please select three brands of sake with very different properties. The differences in properties are hard to tell without drinking the sake, but first, let’s select the sake according to the information listed on each label. For example, please select a Junmai Daiginjo, Tokubestu Junmai, and Junmai Kimoto, all produced in different regions like Akita, Niigata, and Hyogo prefectures, etc. Sake produced in the U.S. are reasonably priced, for including a few of these brands in the mix may also be fun. Please be sure to use the same shaped

特て、 多 く の 人 は「 何 を 大 げ さ な、 に日本酒と食のペアリングに対し

あまり関係ない」と考えているのではな いだろうか?  今回は、ちょっとした心がけで日本酒 と料理のペアリング能力が上がるコツを 教えたい。  まずは、なるべく性質の違う日本酒 3 銘柄を用意していただきたい。性質の違 いは、本当は飲んでみないとなかなか分 かりにくいが、とりあえずはラベルで判 断できる情報で選んでみる。  たとえば、純米大吟醸、特別純米、純 米生酛で全く違う産地のものを見つけて みる。秋田、新潟、兵庫など。米国産の 日本酒も手軽な価格なのでこれらも入れ

www.alljapannews.com

Kats Miyazato

Owner “True Sake”

Owner of M&M Enterprise

Honorary Sake Sommelier

Owner “SAKAYA NYC”

Food and Japanese sake pairing

E

Beau Timken

Honorary Sake Sommelier & Saka-Sho

glass for each of the three sake brands. It’s best to store the glasses in the refrigerator for approximately 3 hours and to maintain their temperature at 55 degrees Fahrenheit. (white wine glasses are better) And now, for the cuisine. There’s no need to stick with Japanese cuisine, for it’s fun to also pair sake with Chinese and Italian (please avoid excessively spicy or strong garlic-flavored dishes) cuisines. Please be careful to compare the balance between the sake and the food upon consumption, the changes detected in the umami flavors, and any changes in the aroma particular to that food, and aftertaste. If these factors in the pairing are satisfying, then it’s safe to say the pairing was a “success.”

ると面白い。  3 銘柄の酒は必ず同じ形状のグラ スを使うこと。その際、3 時間くら い 冷 蔵 庫 に 保 存 し、55 度 F く ら い になるようにしておく。 (白ワイン グラスがベター)  さて料理だが、何も日本食に限ら ず、たとえば、中華、イタリアンな ど(あまりスパイシーなものやニン ニクの強いものは避ける)で試すの も面白い。  注意する点は、日本酒を飲んだ時 の料理との調和、旨みの変化、その 食特有の臭さの変化、後味だ。これ らが心地よければペアリングは、 「良 い」こととなる。

清酒與食物的搭配 特別是對於清酒和食物的搭配,很多人都認為「何必 煞有介事;其實並無甚關係吧」。 這一次,我想教你如何花一點心思就能提高清酒和料 理的搭配能力。 首先,請儘可能準備三款具有不同特徵的清酒品牌。 特徵的差異,很難透過實際嘗試以外的方法所得知; 但首先可以試一下能夠從標籤判斷到的信息來進行 選擇。 例如,嘗試找出完全不同產地的純米大吟釀、特別純 米酒以及純米生酛。例如秋田,新潟,兵庫等。由於 美國製造的清酒也能以合理的價格購買,故將之列為 選擇之一,亦有其趣。 請務必使用相同形狀的酒杯來盛載這三個品牌的清 酒。此時,將其存放在冰箱里大約三個小時,然後 保持在華氏55度。(使用白葡萄酒杯能達到更好的 效果) 好吧,接下來是料理。無須規限於日本料理;不防嘗 試中國菜、意大利菜等(但儘量避免辛辣或大蒜味濃 烈的料理),亦頗有意思。 要注意的事項,是喝清酒時與料理的調和、滋味的變 化、該食物獨有的氣味的變化,以及其回味。如果以 上皆令你感到愜意,則稱為「好」搭配。

일본주와 음식의 페어링 특히 술과 음식 페어링에 대해 많은 사람들이 "뭐 그렇게까 지, 별로 관계 없다"고 생각하고 있지는 않을까요? 이번에는 약간의 노력으로 일본주와 요리의 페어링 능력을 높일 수 있는 비결을 알려주고 싶습니다. 우선 최대한 성질이 다른 일본주 3종류를 준비하십시오. 성 질의 차이는 실제로 마셔봐야 알 수 있는 것이지만, 일단 라 벨에서 확인할 수 있는 정보로 선택해 봅니다. 예를 들어, 쥰마이 다이긴죠, 특별 쥰마이, 쥰마이 키모토처럼 산지가 전혀 다른 것을 찾아 봅니다(아키타, 니가타, 효고 등). 미국에서 만든 일본주도 가격이 저렴하니 이것도 함께 비교 해 본다면 재미있을 것입니다. 3종류의 술은 반드시 같은 모양의 유리컵에 담으십시오. 이 때 냉장고에 3시간 정도 보관해서 55°F 정도가 되도록 합니 다(화이트 와인잔이 더 좋습니다). 그리고 요리는 일본 음식뿐만 아니라 중식, 이탈리아 음식 등 (너무 맵거나 마늘맛이 강한 것은 피합니다.)과 함께 시도해 보는 것도 재미있습니다. 주의할 점은 일본주를 마셨을 때 음식과의 조화, 맛의 변화, 그 음식 특유의 향의 변화 뒷맛입니다. 이러한 느낌이 기분이 좋게 느껴진다면 페어링은 "좋다"고 볼 수 있습니다.


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ALC.14.5% BY VOL. INGREDIENTS:ORGANIC RICE, RICE KOJI SAKE METER VALUE : +5

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KIKISAKE-SHI

唎酒師 SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB Info

Brewery Owner

Sake Sommelier and Others

All Japan News, Inc. /

Sake Shochu Beer Institute of America (213) 680-0011, AllJapanNews@gmail.com

Akira Yuhara Sake Sommelier

Hirohisa Kikuchi Sake Sommelier

Miyako Hybrid Hotel

Kosuke Kuji

Joe Mizuno

Nanbu Bijin Inc. Fifth Generation Brewery Owner

Head of the “Regional Sake Tasting Club”

Yoshihiro Sako Sake Sommelier Yuzuki

Keita Akaboshi

Mei HO

Sake Sommelier

Sake Sommelier

Kuramoto US Inc.

True Sake

Miyuki Yoshida Sake Sommelier

Chizuko Niikawa-Helton Sake Sommelier Sake Samurai

Takao Matsukawa

Philip Harper

Latin Region Specialist Mutual Trading Company Inc.

Tamagawa Hand Made Japanese Sake Master Sake Brewer

Sake Sommelier

Kaz Tokuhara Sake Sommelier

Manager Wismettac Asian Foods

Toshiyuki Koizumi

Alice Hama

Liloa Papa

Certified Wine & Sake Sommelier

Certified Sake Professional Level LL

Rachel Macalisang

Koji Wong

Sake and Wine Sommelier

Koji Aoto

Sake Sommelier

Sake Sommelier

Owner “WASAN”

Savannah Distributing Co. Inc.

Timothy Sullivan Sake Samurai

Sake Sommelier

Wismettac Asian Foods

Young’s Market Company

Kurtis Wells Mixologist

Owner Japon Bistro

Stuart Morris Sake Sommelier

Hana Japanese Restaurant

Michael John Simkin MJS Sake Selection Owner

Masato Kato

Mai Segawa

Don Lee

Advanced Sake Sommelier

Sake Sommelier

Tako Grill

Yama Sushi, Owner Chef

First time in the world!! A toast was given with Awa sake during an official party overseas!! Part 1 世界初 !! 海外のパーティーで awa 酒で乾杯 !! その 1 by Kosuke Kuji

137

Kosuke Kuji Fifth Generation Brewery Owner Nanbu Bijin, Inc. Born May 11, 1972. Entered Tokyo University of Agriculture’s Department of Brewing and Fermentation. In 2005 became the youngest person ever to receive the Iwate Prefecture Young Distinguished Technician Award. In 2006 was selected to be a member of the board of trustees of his local alma mater, Fukuoka High School. Currently is featured in a number of media outlets including magazines, radio, and television. *Positions of Public Service: Chairperson, Cassiopeia Corporation Youth Conference; School Board Member, Fukuoka High School, Iwate Prefecture, Vice-Chairman, Technology Committee, Iwate Prefecture Brewers and Distillers’ Association

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March 2019

T

he 43rd edition of Japan Week (http://www.iffjapan.or.jp/) organized by the International Friendship Foundation, a non-profit based in Tokyo, was held in Torino, Italy. The welcome reception was held lavishly at the Foyer of Teatro Regio, attended by Japanese and Torino affiliates, totaling approximately 300 guests. Japanese guests dressed in kimonos,

公す る 第 43 回 ジ ャ パ ン ウ ィ ー ク 益財団法人国際親善協会が主催

(http://www.iffjapan.or.jp/) が イ タ リ アのトリノで開催されました。ウエルカ ムレセプションがテアトロ・レッジョ・ ロビーで日本とトリノの関係者 300 名近 くが参加して盛大に開催されました。日 本側参加者は着物や演武で着る衣装で参 加、さらに在ミラノ総領事館の雨宮総領

www.alljapannews.com

while Consul General Amamiya, the Consulate General of Japan in Milan, gave a congratulatory address. The Deputy Mayor and many participants also attended from the Torino side, and the Japanese and Italian attendees intermingled with one another. During the welcome reception, the “Awa sake” produced by a member sake brewery of both the Nanbubijin

Awasake Sparkling and Japan Awasake Association were served to all participants as the welcome toast. Normally, champagne would be served, or Spumante this year, since the event was held in Italy. However, the Japan Awasake Association was behind the effort to serve Awa sake as the welcome toast at the official party!! This is a first, unprecedented feat worldwide!!

事も参加してご祝辞をいただきました。 トリノ側からも副市長をはじめ、多くの 参加者があり、日本とイタリアの交流が 行われました。  そのウエルカムレセプションで、南部 美人あわさけスパークリングをはじめ、 一般社団法人 awa 酒協会に加盟する蔵 元の「awa 酒」が全ての参加者にウエル カムドリンクと乾杯用のお酒として振る

舞われました。例年ならばシャンパン、 そして今年はイタリアなのでスプマンテ など泡のお酒が振る舞われますが、今年 は awa 酒協会が協力して、公式なパー ティーの場で全てが awa 酒でのウエル カムドリンク・乾杯酒の使用となりまし た。これは世界初の試みです!!

3月17日、


日本 百味 酒 百題 R

ecently, a location thought to be the ruins of a fruit liquorfiltering site was found at the Ikeuchi ruins from the early Jomon Period (approximately 5,000 years ago) in Odate City, Akita Prefecture. Fruit seeds such as elderberry, wild vine, raspberries, etc., covered in dietary fiber were excavated in large quantities.

美味しい酒を150種類 日本全国から輸入 全米のネットワークを通じて 皆様に直送中 Yoshihide Murakami

Master Sake Sommelier Liquor Manager JFC International Inc.

www.jfc.com

What is “Kuchikami-sake*”, said to be the original form of sake? *Sake produced from rice or cereal, chewed before fermentation

酒の起源といわれる「ロ噛み酒」とは何か Until recently, earthenware excavated from the Idojiri monuments (Fujimi City, Nagano Prefecture) - remains from the mid-Jomon Period - were deemed as evidence of fruit liquor produced during the Jomon Period. Earthenware jugs were presumably used to produce sake from seeds such as grape seeds, etc., found attached inside of large earthenware jugs with a handle around the neck. Fruits such as wild vines containing abundant sugar can ferment into alcohol if left in a jug because the various wild yeasts attached to the skin produced primitive fruit liquor. The discovery at the Ikeuchi remains raises the possibility that this type of fruit liquor originated in even earlier times. During the mid-Jomon Period on the other hand, people ate nut trees like acorns and walnuts, rhizomes (horizontal

最近期( 約 5000 年 前 ) の 遺 跡 で 、秋田県大館市の縄文時代前

BRANCHES & SALES OFFICES Head Office: LOS ANGELES (800) 633-1004, (323) 721-6100 LOS ANGELES Branch SAN DIEGO Sales Office, LAS VEGAS Sales Office PHOENIX Sales Office, DENVER Sales Office SAN FRANCISCO Branch SACRAMENTO Sales Office SEATTLE Branch PORTLAND Sales Office HOUSTON Branch DALLAS Sales Office BATON ROUGE Sales Office CHICAGO Branch TOLEDO Sales Office NEW YORK Branch BOSTON Sales Office BALTIMORE Branch ATLANTA Branch ORLAND Sales Office MIAMI Branch HAWAII Branch JFC GROUP OFFICE HAPI PRODUCTS, INC. JES INC. Interbranch Distribution Center (IDC)

Suijin Junmai SMV: +10

ある池内遺跡で、果実酒の濾過跡と見ら れる場所が発見され、話題になった。ニ ワトコ、ヤマブドウ、キイチゴなどの果 実の種が、植物繊維に包まれた形で大量 に出土したのである。  これまでは、縄文中期の遺跡である井 戸尻遺跡群(長野県富士見町)で出土し た有孔鍔付土器が、縄文人の果実酒造り の証拠とされてきた。首の部分に鍔の付 いた大型の樽型土器で、内側にはヤマブ ドウなどの種子が付着していたことか ら、酒の仕込み壺に使われたのではない かと推測されている。ヤマブドウのよう な糖質をたくさん含んだ果実は、容器に 入れておけば、果皮に付着している多数 の野生酵母の働きを受けてアルコール発 酵が起こり、原始的な果実酒ができ上が

Shichida Junmai SMV: +2

subterranean plant stern) such as dogtooth violets and lilies, assorted grains such as millet and barnyard, and foods containing starch. Because stone mills, etc., were excavated, foods at the time were presumed to be prodded, crushed, and ground into starchy powder, then kneaded with water before grilled and consumed. Amylase is produced in the saliva by gradually chewing starchy food, which breaks down the starch and produces sugar, sweetening the flavor. The Jomon people are easily presumed to have understood this phenomenon from experience, and did not overlook this method to produce sake from sweet fruit. Starchy foods are thoroughly chewed until the flavor is sweetened, then spat out into a container and stored until wild yeasts in the air is exposed to

the food stored inside, fermenting the content into alcohol to produce sake. This sake produced is called “Kuchikami-sake,” or “Sake produced from rice or cereal, chewed before fermentation.” While different theories indicate rice cultivation in Japan started in the late Jomon Period or perhaps later, it is presumed rice was introduced from the continent in a later period, which produced the original form of sake from rice. The initial record of sake produced by chewing rice was documented during the Nara Period (710 – 794 CE). “Kuchikami-sake” is documented not only in Japan, but also throughout eastern Asian region or Southeast Asia, from the South Pacific region to South and Central America since ancient times, passed down to the Meiji Era (1868 1912) in Okinawa, etc., as a method to produce sake for rituals.

る。池内遺跡での発見は、このような果 実酒の起源をさらにさかのぼらせる可能 性がある。  ところで、中期縄文人はドングリ、ク ルミといった堅果類や、カタクリ、ユリ の根といった根茎類、アワ、ヒエといっ た雑穀類など、でんぶん質の食料も食べ ていた。石臼や杵も出土しているから、 突いたり潰したりしてでんぶん質の粉に して、水で練ってから焼いて食べたと推 測される。  でんぷん質の食べ物をゆっくりと噛ん でいると、唾液中の糖化酵素(アミラー ゼ)によってでんぶんが分解され、ぶど う糖ができて甘くなる。それまでの酒が 甘い果実からのみできたことを体験的に 知っている縄文人が、この現象を見逃さ なかったであろうことは容易に想像で きる。

 でんぶん質の食べ物をよく噛んで、甘 くなってから容器に吐き溜めておく。す ると、空気中に浮遊している野生酵母が 落下してきて、アルコール発酵を引き起 こして酒になる。これが「ロ噛み酒」で ある。わが国での稲作が始まったのが縄 文後期か、それより後なのかは学説が分 かれるが、ともかくその後、大陸から米 が渡来してこのような米の酒の原型がで き上がったと考えられている。米を噛ん で造る酒の文献上の初見は奈良時代初期 の『大隅国風土記』にも書かれている。 ちなみに、酒を「醸す」という言葉の語 源は、酒を「噛むす」に由来するともい われる。  口噛みの酒はわが国だけでなく、東ア ジアー帯や東南アジア、南太平洋地域か ら中南米にかけて大昔から分布してお り、沖縄などでは明治時代まで祭事用の 酒造りとして伝承されていた。

Mizuho Kuromatsu Kenbishi (Yamahai) Junmai SMV: -0.5~+0.5

この記事は株式会社柴田書店より提供されています。 This article was courtesy from Shibata Shoten Co Ltd.

Kinokuniya Bunzaemon Junmai SMV: -2

Ozeki Rai Junmai

Hakutsuru Organic Junmai

SMV: +2.0

Japanese Restaurant News

SMV: +5

Vol. 29

No. 244

15


KIKISAKE-SHI

唎酒師

JAPAN

SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB Master Sake Sommelier Info

All Japan News, Inc. /

Sake Shochu Beer Institute of America (213) 680-0011, AllJapanNews@gmail.com

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Yuji Matsumoto Master Sake Sommelier

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Toshio Ueno

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Healthy way to enjoy sake 健康的な飲み方 

I

酒小腸から 80% が吸収され血液に入り、全身

Ten guidelines to enjoy the appropriate quantity of alcohol in a healthy way • As a general rule, chat and enjoy the beverage, • Consume an appropriate quantity of alcohol while eating, • Strong alcohol is recommended diluted for consumption, • Let’s rest the liver at least 2 days a week, • Let’s not drink endlessly, • Do not pressure others to drink or knock down shots, • Never consume prescription medication with alcohol, • Never drink while pregnant or breastfeeding, • Please be cautious about exercising or bathing after consuming alcohol, • And never forget to get regular checkups of your liver. Also, “healing water” - Japanese sake consumed with water - is effective in reducing stress on the body. In addition to sake being effective in clearing the skin, amino acid and arginine, etc., found in the skin are also present in Japanese sake. Japanese sake bath, prepared by dropping six ounces of sake into a bathtub full of hot water heated to 104 deg F, is effective in advancing metabolism and warming the body sensitive to the cold.

健康のために適正飲酒を心がけるための 10 か条 • 談笑し、楽しく飲むのが基本 • 食べながら、適量範囲でゆっくりと • 強い酒、薄めて飲むのがお勧めです • つくろうよ週に 2 回は休肝日 • やめようよ きりなく長い呑み続け  • 許さない人への無理強い一気飲み • アルコールと薬は一緒に飲まない • 飲まないで、妊娠中と授乳期は • 飲酒後の運動や入浴は注意 • 肝臓など定期検査を忘れずに

ntoxication means twenty-percent of the consumed alcohol enters the bloodstream from the stomach, eighty-percent of the alcohol is absorbed into the bloodstream from the small intestine, and the alcohol circulates throughout the body, reaches the brain, and numbs the nerve cells. Sake Shochu Beer Institute of America

米国酒焼酎麦酒研究所

Sake Shochu Beer Institute of America was founded with the purpose to promote further understanding of Japanese sake, shochu and beer in a shared where 500 million people enjoy wine in North America. We strive to increase Japanophiles by furthering understanding of the sake culture through online Japanese sake and shochu colleges and books related to Japanese sake, shochu and beer, etc. Especially sampling parties directly approaches consumers and no doubt contributes to expanding the market. Also, our final purpose is to facilitate communication with sake breweries, sake producers, and distribution companies, etc., to introduce Japanese sake, shochu and beer to American consumers in a way that’s easy-tounderstand.

16

March 2019

www.alljapannews.com

に酔うとは、アルコール分が胃から 20%、

に行き渡り脳にも到達し神経細胞に作用し麻痺さ せる、この症状を酔うという。

 また、“ 和らぎ水 ” と言って日本酒と一緒に水 を飲むと体の負担減少に効果大。  美肌効果もあり肌の再生アミノ酸、アルギニン などが日本酒に含まれる。  日本酒風呂は 40 度の湯船に1合(180 ml)を 入れると新陳代謝を促進し冷え性にも効果。


Ryuji Takahashi

by Ryuji Takahashi

Regional Sake Specialty Store “Ji Sakeya” Owner, Master Sake Sommelier, Shuto-Meijin, and the charismatic guru of ordinary sake. Plans and manages events and seminars with his own unique flare to introduce the appeal of Japanese sake and cuisine, unaffected by the latest trends, while managing a jizake retail store.

The latest availability of sake in Poland ポーランドの日本酒事情

I

am sometimes requested to give Japanese sake seminars by corporations. Recently, I was requested by a Polish company importing Japanese sake to give a seminar on Japanese sake. Since I had no knowledge of Poland, I did extensive research to find a connection between the Polish dietary culture and Japanese sake. The Republic of Poland is located in Central Europe. The capital of Poland is Warsaw. Poland apparently means “flat earth.” The primary language is Polish in this nation where the world’s oldest ruins of cheese production was excavated. Their dietary staple is bread, while potatoes such as mashed potatoes is often consumed in their diet. Due to their proximity to Germany, various meat dishes such as sausages, and dishes similar to steak tartare are also a part of their diet. Herring is a fish widely consumed throughout Poland. The dish “Śledź w stylu japońskim” translates as “Japanese-style Herring,” a dish contrived based on the widespread misconception that the Japanese enjoy Herring and eggs. Since many of their dishes appear acidic (sour), their diet seems compatible with Japanese sake. Until recently, sake widely consumed in Poland is a brand produced by Choya Umeshu Co. Ltd, a sake producer renowned for their plum wine. The Polish businessmen who requested my sake seminar had become captivated by sake after consuming a large quantity of sake in Japan, which led them to import Japanese sake. Currently, several brands of Japanese sake are available in Poland. However, my seminar was requested based on their desire to acquire certification from a Japanese sake professional deemed equivalent to studying sake production in Japan. I received the questions beforehand, as I was requested to give an effective seminar tailored to their specific interests. However, due to the

need to start the lecture from ancient Japanese culture, in addition to some misconceptions that needed to be corrected, I received input from the Master Sake Brewer of Kanemasu Brewery to draft my answers before I conducted my seminar to four Polish nationals and their business affiliates. My audience appeared confused at times, clearly having difficulties understanding the unique Japanese sake culture and the Japanese aesthetic values. However, they expressed gratitude for the opportunity to hear feedback directly from the sake production site, very different from the information found online or in books, which gave them a glimpse into the depth of Japanese sake production that deepened their interests. Therefore, the seminar was very effective and productive for my audience. This seminar was also a learning experience for me, which piqued my interest in the latest availability of sake in Europe. I’d like to go to Poland once to try the Japanese sake available there, produced by Choya Umeshu Co., Ltd.

私セ ミ ナ ー を 行 う 事 が あ る の だ が、 は、企業などに依頼されて日本酒

今回はポーランドの日本酒輸入商から セミナーを開いてほしいと依頼があり、 ポーランドという国に対しての知識が全 くなかったのでポーランドの食文化と日 本酒を合わせる話をする為、色々と調べ てみた。ポーランド共和国は中央ヨー ロッパに位置する共和制国家で首都は、 ワルシャワ。ポーランドは「平らな土 地」という意味らしい。言語はポーラン ド語で、世界最古のチーズ製造の痕跡が 見つかった国とのこと。主食はパンの様 だが、非常にジャガイモも食べる様で、 マッシュポテトや茹でポテトがよく食卓 に上がるそうだ。ドイツに近いこともあ り肉料理も種類がありソーセージやタル タルステーキの様な物もある。魚はニシ ンが有名でニシンの酢漬けで「シレチ・ ポ・ヤポンスク」と言う料理が有り日本 語だと「日本風ニシン」と言う意味らし い。日本人はニシンと卵が好きだと誤っ て伝えられた結果、生まれた料理とのこ と。何となく、酸味を感じる料理が多そ うなので、日本酒と合わせられる可能性 を感じる食文化である。今までポーラン ドで日本酒を飲む場合は、日本では梅酒 で有名なチョーヤ梅酒株式会社が造る日

本酒を飲んでいたらしい。ところが、セ ミナーの依頼をしてきたポーランド人は 日本で沢山の日本酒を飲んだ時にすっか り日本酒の虜になってしまったらしく、 日本酒の輸入をするまでになってしまっ たとの事だった。現在、既に数種の日本 酒がポーランドで飲めるらしいが日本酒 を取り扱う上で、日本人の日本酒のプロ から日本で勉強した認定が欲しいとのこ とで私に依頼をしてきたようだ。私の授 業の前に質問項目が送られてきており、 知りたいことだけ効率よく教えて欲しい という旨なのだが明らかに昔の日本文化 から説明しなければならない項目や勘違 いしている項目などもあり、金升酒造の 杜氏に協力してもらいながら回答を作成 し、ポーランド人 4 名と関連企業の方々 にセミナーを行った。日本独自の日本酒 文化や日本人の美学を理解するのが難し かったようで戸惑うシーンが何度も見ら れたがネット情報や本での情報とは全く 違う現場の声を聞けたという事で、日本 酒の奥深さを更に知り興味を持ってくれ たので、非常に意味のある濃いセミナー となった。私も勉強になりヨーロッパの 日本酒事情をもっと知りたくなったの で、一度ポーランドに行ってチョーヤの 日本酒を飲んでみたいと思う。

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 244

17


社長    人が明かす

「オンリーワンの 店づくり、

わが社ならではの

組織づくり」

“How to Create a One-Of-A-Kind Izakaya Restaurant, Creating an Organization Like None Other” as Revealed by 22 Founders (株) ららら

内田譲二氏 LaLaLa Inc.

Joji Uchida Profile 1962年佐賀県生まれ。現パナソニックのグループ 企業に入社し、公共施設や民間企業へ向けたシステ ム商品の営業に携わる。青年会議所でらららの幹部 と知り合い、2006年、創業者の牛島太会長の誘い でらららに入社。2010年、同社代表取締役に就任。

Born in Saga Prefecture in 1962. Joined the current Panasonic Corporate Group, where he was involved in sales of system products targeting public facilities and private enterprises. Uchida met with an executive of La La La Inc. at the Japan Junior Chamber, Inc., and was invited by the founder Ushijima to join the corporation. Uchida assumed his post as CEO in 2010.

18

March 2019

www.alljapannews.com

continued from last issue

Our current concept is “local production for local consumption.” We’re not focusing on the ramen industry because this style of restaurant sells. Since agriculture and fishery are the major industries in Saga prefecture, our concept is to ensure our business brings profit back to the local food producers. We use livestock products such as Saga Beef, along with local fruits and vegetables from Saga prefecture, seafood from the Arake and Genkai Seas, and various other locally produced food ingredients. Another resulting advantage is to provide safe reliable food products operating a business closely tied to our local community. Even if food prices increase, we can negotiate prices more easily with local food producers and distribution industry professionals, which adds to our benefit. We strive to work with local food producers to serve cuisine that our customers enjoy and appreciate for our mutual benefit. Since the recent izakaya (sake pub) market in Saga prefecture tends to operate on weekends only, one of our themes is how to generate profit in short periods. Our main strategy is to focus on course selections, such as serving banquet courses and other courses with all-you-can-drink privileges. We also change our menu selections once every three months to serve courses that attract customers. The LaLaLa Group operates twenty restaurants consisting of directly managed restaurants surrounding the Saga City and franchise restaurants. One customer commented, “No matter where I go, I always find a restaurant managed by the ‘LaLaLa Group’ (chuckles).” We focus our restaurant locations in this area to raise brand awareness. Although we do see major izakaya restaurant chains coming in

and expanding, their impact to our business is insignificant. We have industry professionals say to us, “Since we see ‘LaLaLa’ around, it’s hard for us to expand into Saga City.” We very much appreciate our local brand recognition. Although we don’t mean to toot our own horn, I’m sure it’s safe to say most people in Saga City recognize our brand name, “LaLaLa Group.” Because we built a trusting relationship with our local customers, our own customers promote our products by word-of-mouth on both Facebook and LINE, writing, “a new restaurant opened,” “they came out with a new product,” etc. Especially our local customers in Saga City book their reservations days and weeks in advance, looking forward to their visits to our restaurants. I think it’s important to inform our staff about these customers to ensure each staff respond with sincere hospitality to these customers during their two-hour visits dining at our restaurant. I’m convinced these efforts lead to customer satisfaction that generates repeat customers. We’re active in our efforts to revitalize local communities. During international hot air balloon events like the “Saga International Balloon Fiesta Organization” (SIBFO) and “Saga Light Fantasy,” etc., the government, the Chamber of Commerce and Industry, and citizens join forces to attract customers based on our shared belief that each company must do our part in addition to managing our own restaurants well to revitalize our community of Saga City. Currently, we’re mainly expanding in Saga and Nagasaki cities. In the future, we’re planning on opening corner restaurants as the pillar of our business. We’d like to increase our


share in the Saga City market, so once we’ve accumulated sufficient hands-on knowledge, we’re looking to expand into other areas as well. The challenges we face in Fukuoka city, the largest market in Kyushu prefecture, are high rent prices and long-established izakaya restaurants cornering the market. However, we still plan to eventually open a corner restaurant in Fukuoka city. For areas outside of Kyushu prefecture, we’re looking to open yakiniku restaurants and ramen shops as well. The low-priced Dragon Ramen I mentioned earlier is an easy business category to open shops in. Currently, we’re developing an all-you-can-eat yakiniku and sushi restaurant “Dragon Kalbi” based on Kakura Restaurant’s Omura location. We also founded a new business, Ogi Gochiku Farm, Inc. Our goal is to revitalize our community through cuisine, and found it necessary to produce our food ourselves. We opened a 35,580-ft2 store that directly sells agricultural products in March 2013, where we plan to sell vegetables grown in our own farm and farmhouse. We also plan to create a food producer’s association with local farmers to prepare these food ingredients at our restaurants. In the future, we look forward to expand various businesses in the restaurant industry based on the theme local production for local consumption.

先月号の続き

 僕当社が掲げているのは“地産地消”の 理念です。これは、そういうスタイルの 店が売れるからという理由ではありませ ん。佐賀というのは農業と漁業が盛んな 土地柄ですから、地元の生産者の人たち にも利益を還元するようなビジネスでな くてはならないと考えているためです。 当社では、佐賀牛などの畜産物をはじ め、佐賀産の野菜やフルーツ、有明海や 玄海灘の魚介類など、地元の食材を多く 使用しています。  それは安全安心な食の提供や、地域に 密着した営業ができるというメリットに もつながります。また、原材料が高騰す ることがあっても、長年付き合っている 地元の生産・流通関係者なら価格交渉も しやすいですから、それも当社の強みに なっています。地元の生産者と共存共栄 しながら、お客さまに喜ばれる食を提供 していきたいと考えています。  最近の佐賀の居酒屋マーケットは週末 型になりつつあるため、そこでいかに集 中して稼ぐかがテーマのひとつになって います。主力になるのが宴会コースと飲 み放題コースで、コースの内容が重要に なります。当社でも3ヵ月に1回はメ ニューを変えるなど、魅力的なコースを 提供して集客につなげています。  らららグループの店舗は、佐賀市の中 心部エリアだけで直営とFCを併せて20 店を展開しています。いわゆるドミナン ト方式で、お客さまからは「どこに行っ ても『ららら』やもんね」と言われるほ どです(笑)。ここに店舗を集中させる ことで、知名度を上げています。大手居 酒屋チェーンも進出していますが、それ

ほど影響はありません。同業者からは 「『ららら』がいるから佐賀には進出し にくい」と言われますね。  地元での知名度の高さは非常にありが たいことで、手前味噌になりますが、佐 賀の人はだいたい「らららグループ」を ご存じだと思います。地域のお客さまと の間に信頼を築いているから、お客さま がフェイスブックやLINEで「こういう 店ができた」とか「こんな新商品が出 た」と、私たちの宣伝をしてくださいま す。しかも、佐賀の人は何日も何週間も 前から予約して、うちの店に来るのを楽 しみにしてくれている人が多いです。  そういうお客さまがいてくださるとい うことを、スタッフたちに伝えていくの が大切なことだと思っています。スタッ フ一人ひとりがお客さまの気持ちにお応 えして、来店された2時間ほどの間に、 いかにおもてなしの心を伝えられるか、 ですね。そういうことが顧客満足につな がり、リピーターを生んでいくのだと思 います。  地域の活性化というテーマにも積極的 に取り組んでいます。世界的な熱気球の 大会「佐賀インターナショナルバルーン フェスタ」や、「サガ・ライトファンタ ジー」、「街中バル」などのイベントで は、行政や商工会議所と私たち民間が協 力し、街ぐるみの集客を図っています。 自分の会社だけがよければいいという発 想ではなく、佐賀という地域そのものを 盛り上げて、活性化していく必要があり ます。  現在、出店しているエリアは佐賀と長 崎が主力。今後の展開としては、かど屋 を出店の柱にしていく予定です。佐賀の

なかでさらにシェアをとっていきたいで すし、ノウハウの蓄積が十分になった ら、他エリアにも展開しようと考えてい ます。九州最大のマーケットである福岡 は、家賃などの固定費が高いことと、古 くからやっている居酒屋がしっかりマー ケットを押さえていることがネックです ね。しかし、いずれは福岡にかど屋を出 そうと思います。  九州のそれ以外のエリアに関しては、 焼肉やラーメンの業態を出店することに なるでしょう。先に述べた低価格のドラ ゴンラーメンは出店しやすいですし、現 在は爀蔵の大村店をベースにして、焼肉 とすし食べ放題の「ドラゴンカルビ」を 開発しているところです。  新事業として、農業法人の小城ごちく ファーム㈱を設立し、3年前から六次産 業への取り組みも始めています。食をテ ーマにして地域を盛り上げることが目的 で、そのためには自社で生産から取り組 む必要があると考えました。2013年3月 には1,000坪の農産物直売所を開設し、 当社のファームや農家でつくった野菜を 販売する計画です。また、地域の農家と ともに生産組合をつくり、当社の店舗で 食材として活用していきます。今後も地 産地消をテーマに、さまざまな外食事業 を展開していく予定です。

*This article was referred from “Mook Izakaya 2014” published by Shibata Shoten Co Ltd. *この記事は株式会社柴田書店発行の“Mook居酒屋2014”からの転載です。

食の総合出版社  株式会社 柴田書店

SHIBATA PUBLISHING CO., LTD.

IYASAKA Building 3-26-9 Yushima, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo 113-8477, Japan Tel. +81-3-5816-8269 Fax.+81-3-5816-8262 http://www.shibatashoten.co.jp http://www.ss-foodlabo.com/ e-mail: foodlabo@shibatashoten.co.jp FACEBOOK http://www.facebook.com/ss.foodlabo Twitter @shibatashotenSD

S

hibata Publishing Co., Ltd. is a publishing company founded in 1950, comprehensively covering the culinary industry for “food and service professionals” through publications such as “Gekkan Shokudo” and “Gekkan Senmonryori.” Their theme of providing “content that meets the high demands of professionals” hasn’t changed since their foundation. Especially now, at a time when the entire publishing industry is faced with the need for structural changes, we must all the more uphold this theme to provide fresh content. Capitalizing on our strength of knowledge and providing strong content through the publication of books and magazines, we must continue to challenge ourselves with new products and business areas. By doing so, we will continue our mission at Shibata Publishing: to contribute to the development of the culinary, restaurant and lodging industries, and undertake business activities in various fields.

1950 年に創業した食の総合出版社 柴田書店は です。出版を通じて “ 食とサービスのプロ ”

に貢献するべく、『月刊食堂』『月刊専門料理』な どの専門雑誌によって実現されています。  「プロの厳しい要求に応える内容を」という商 品づくりのテーマは、創業以来一貫して変わるこ とはありません。出版ビジネスの構造転換が迫ら れる今だからこそ、われわれはそのテーマをより 鮮明にしていかなければならないと考えていま す。書籍、雑誌づくりを通じて蓄積したノウハウ とコンテンツの強みを生かして、新しい商品や事 業領域に挑戦していくこと。それによって料理業 界、外食・宿泊サービス業界のさらなる発展に貢 献することを柴田書店の使命として、これからも 多彩な事業活動に取り組んでまいります。

■月刊誌ご案内■ Introduction to our monthly publications (GEKKAN SHOKUDO) We logically analyze and produce articles on the rapidly growing restaurant industry and bustling restaurants!!! For readers like you, who want to learn the operations of a popular restaurant, management of restaurant figures and popular menu selections, we thoroughly report the management methods of growing restaurant businesses! 勢いのある外食産業や繁盛店を論理的に分析し、記事に します!! 繁盛店のオペレーションが知りたい、飲食店 の数値管理を学びたい、売れるメニューのレシピが知り たい、そんなあなたに成長する外食企業の経営手法を徹 底的に分析します

■公式WEBサイト■

(GEKKAN SENMONRYORI) Gekkan Senmonryori provides the latest techniques and information on Japanese, Italian, French and Chinese cuisines, desserts, and other cuisines from various countries. We also follow and report on recent trends and the latest information on food ingredients garnering attention. With “highly specialized” as our key word, we thoroughly explain the food preparation methods of top-rated professionals.

café-sweets is a specialized magazine filled with useful information as reference for both coffee and pastry professionals and amateur readers alike. Following industry trends, we introduce how to decorate your restaurant appealingly, products and techniques. We report information on the popular coffees, breads and pastries, cakes, Japanese confections, chocolates, and interviews with owners about their experiences after the shops open.

日本料理、イタリア料理、フランス料理、中国料理、デザ ート、その他各国料理の技術と情報を満載。近年、関心が 高まっている素材の動向、食材生産地の現状もフォローし ます。 「専門性の高さ」 を キーワードに一流の調理技術を 惜しみなく解説

カフェとスイーツ・パンのプロフェッショナル、アマチュアの 皆様にも参考になる専門誌です。業界のトレンドを追い、魅力 ある店づくり、商品や技術を紹介。コーヒー、パン、ケーキ、 和菓子、チョコレート情報、またお店開業後、活躍するオーナ ーの体験談、海外情報も満載です

FOODLABO by 柴田書店 (FOODLABO by SHIBATASHOTEN)

「レストラン」 「料理」 「外食人」 「食ニュ ース」 「文化・知識」 に焦点を当てて、日々 変化を続ける食情報を毎日発信します。 最新オープンニュース、イベント情報の 他、人気店や話題店の料理レシピから外 食人のインタビューまで楽しい記事・コ ンテンツが満載です。

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 244

19


CULINARY

PROFESSIONALS Los Angeles

Text & Photo: Keiko Fukuda

Chinchikurin Taste Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki in the US!

Chinchikurin

広島のお好み焼きをアメリカで

350 E. 1st St. Los Angeles CA 90012 (213) 626-0480 http://www.chinchikurin-usa.com Tue.-Sun. 11:30am-2:00pm 5:00pm-11:00pm Tuesday Closed DATA 1. Average Price 客単価 $18 2. Monthly Sales 月間売上平均 N/A 3. Food Cost フードコスト (%) N/A 4. Alcoholic Beverage Sales (%)

売上に対するアルコール比率

N/A

5. Alcoholic Beverage Sales by Type アルコール売上高 ( 種類別 ) N/A 6. Target Customer 客層 Tourists, Business, Local 7. Featured Menu メニューの特徴 Okonomiyaki, Tsukemen 8. Food Supplier 仕入れ先 Mutual Trading, JFC, Wismettac 9. Number of Staff 従業員数 20 people 10. Number of Seats 座席数 64 seats 11. Opening Date 開店年月 March, 2018 12. Varieties of Sake in Store

22

取り扱い日本酒の種類数、売れ筋

Sayuri

March 2019

The Loaded Kaisen

O

konomiyaki restaurant, Chinchikurin, stands in front of the Yagura of Japanese Village, the symbol of Little Tokyo. Teppan-yaki tables are laid out in an orderly way in a large space, and their kitchen is an open style. If you get seated at the counter, you can watch Okonomiyaki being made by chefs in front of you. “Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki is difficult to make because it requires one to make many layers, therefore, although a teppan is installed for each table, we don’t ask customers to cook at the table. Instead, we deliver Okonomiyaki cooked by a chef in the kitchen to the teppan, so the customer can eat while it is still hot,” explains Tsuyoshi Sahara, the manager. Mr. Sahara is from Hiroshima. His family had a teppan at home when he was little, and it was his father, who didn’t usually cook, who took the responsibility whenever Okonomiyaki was chosen for dinner. The Chinchikurin chain was founded in 1999 in Hiroshima which

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The restaurant is facing the street. They also have some outdoor dining space.

Mr. Sahara is also from. The chain has developed 10 locations in Hiroshima, and 3 locations in Tokyo as restaurants which offer various izakaya style menus that contain mainly Okonomiyaki and Teppanyaki items. The first overseas location was in the Sawtelle District of West Los Angeles, which opened in January of 2017. The Little Tokyo location opened in March of 2018 after a strong determination of success was felt at the Sawtelle location. There have been Osaka style Okonomiyaki restaurants in the US; however, there was no place where you could eat Hiroshima style Okonomiyaki. What is the difference between the Osaka style and the Hiroshima style? As mentioned earlier, Hiroshima style has many layers. The Chinchikurin menu explains that in an easy-to-understand way with an illustration. First comes the dough, then fish powder, shredded cabbage, tenkasu (fried tempura batter crumbs), bean sprouts, pork belly slices, soba, eggs, sauce, and dried seaweed flakes are piled on top of each other, pressed down, and grilled, one by one in order. When you take a bite of a piping hot piece, it feels like those ingredients are trying to make an impression in your mouth with each of their tastes and textures. The most popular menu item is the Chinchikurin yaki ($17.00). It is a signature item in Japan, which is called “Shoburiyaki” in Japan. Boneless short rib of beef is used in Japan, but in the US, ground beef is used for easier acceptance by Americans. On the interview day, I tried the second most popular item, “The Loaded Kaisen ($18.50)”. In addition to the basic ingredients such as cabbage, soba, and eggs, it had plenty of seafood such as

Teppan table

shrimp and sliced squid on top. It is a very satisfying and luxurious menu item both visually and volume wise. What is indispensable to complete the piece is Hiroshima’s Otafuku brand sauce. This sauce is produced locally at the Otafuku sauce factory in a Los Angeles suburb. Menu items such as Basil Cheese and Broccoli Shrimp Yaki are unique to the American market. There are 8 kinds in Okonomiyaki alone, and one for vegetarians has been added newly to respond to many requests from the Los Angeles area. There is no need to say that no meat is used for this piece, but even no eggs or fish powder are used. In addition to the Okonomiyaki menu, you can also order Hiroshima style tsukemen and soup-less tantanmen. They are planning to add more appetizers and desserts. Most of their customers are non-Japanese. What do they do to secure the number of customers? “We don’t use prints or other media advertisements much. As for the Little Tokyo location, the huge glass windows facing the street is the key, I think. It seems that people get curious watching people inside eating an unfamiliar-looking food in front of an iron grill. We also try to maintain a cheerful ambience of the restaurant at all times. We train our staff to serve customers cheerfully and as loudly as possible,” says the manager Sahara. As the result of such efforts, the restaurant has become so popular that on weekends, people wait in line in front of the restaurant. They sometimes serve as many as 500 people a day. The 3rd US location is being planned to open soon in Torrance (this information is as of December of 2018). Such a day may be near that you can eat Hiroshima style Okonomiyaki anywhere in the US.


CULINARY PROFESSIONALS

リニーズビレッジプラザに建つ火の見 トルトーキョーのシンボル、ジャパ

櫓の正面に店を構えるのが、お好み焼き のちんちくりん。広々とした店内には鉄 板焼きテーブルが配置され、キッチンは オープンスタイル。カウンターに陣取れ ば、お好み焼きをシェフが焼く過程を目 の前で見ることができる。  「 広 島 の お 好 み 焼 き は 何 層 に も レ イ ヤーが分かれていて、作るのが難しいん です。だから、テーブルに鉄板にあって もお客様に作っていただくのではなく、 キッチンでシェフが焼いたお好み焼きを テーブルに移動させて、それを温かい状 態で食べていただくための鉄板です」と 説明してくれたのは、マネージャーの さ は ら つよし 佐原毅さん。広島市出身の佐原さんも物 心ついた時から家庭には鉄板があり、お 好み焼きの日には普段料理をしない父親 が腕を振るったそうだ。  さて、ちんちくりんは佐原さんの地元 でもある広島で 1999 年に創業された。 お好み焼き、鉄板焼きを中心に多数の居 酒屋メニューを揃えた店として、広島 に 10 店舗、東京に 3 店舗展開している。 海外1号店は、2017 年 1 月にオープン したウエストロサンゼルスのソーテル 店。リトルトーキョー店はソーテルで確 かな手応えを得た後の 2018 年 3 月に店 を開けた。  アメリカにはこれまで大阪のお好み焼

Manager, Sahara, Front row, middle

きの店はあったが、広島のお好み焼きを 食べられる店はなかった。大阪スタイル とは何が違うのかと言うと、前述のよう に、何層も分かれているのが広島のお好 み焼きだ。ちんちくりんのメニューに、 それがわかりやすく図説されている。ま ず、生地があり、その上にフィッシュパ ウダー、キャベツ、天かす、もやし、豚 バラ、そば、卵、ソース、さらに青のりと、 順番に重ねて押さえて焼き上げる。熱々 をいただくと、それぞれの具材の食感が 口の中で主張する印象だ。  同店で一番人気のメニューは、ちんち くりん焼き($17.00)。日本では「しょ ぶり焼き」と称される看板メニューで、

The kitchen is visible from the VIP room.

本来であれば牛肉の中落ちを使うそうだ が、アメリカではより受け入れやすいよ うに牛ひき肉を使用。そして取材当日、 試食したのは2番人気の海鮮スペシャル ($18.50)だった。キャベツやそば、卵 などのベーシックな具材以外に、エビ、 イカが豊富にトッピングされている。見 た目にもボリューム的にも豪華で満足度 が高い一品。仕上げに欠かせないのが、 広島のオタフクソースの存在だ。ロサン ゼルス郊外のオタフクソースの現地工場 で生産されているものだ。  メニューには。バジルチーズ焼き、ブ ロッコリーシュリンプなどアメリカなら ではと思わせるユニークなものも見られ

る。お好み焼きだけで 8 種類、さらに、 ロサンゼルスでの要望が多いことがわ かって、新しく加えたのがベジタリアン 向けのお好み焼き。肉はもちろん、卵、 フィッシュパウダーも使っていない。  お好み焼き以外にも、広島スタイルの つけ麺と汁無し担々麺も食べられる。ま た、今後はアペタイザーやデザートも増 やしていく意向だ。  顧客はほぼ非日系で占められる。顧客 を確保するためにどのような努力をして いるのだろうか?「広告や宣伝はあまり 利用していません。まず、リトルトー キョー店に関しては、通りに面したガラ ス張りの作りが大きな武器になっている と思います。鉄板を前に店内にお客様が、 あまり見たことがない料理を食べている 光景が興味をひくようです。また、店の 雰囲気を常に明るくするように努めてい ます。スタッフにも、できるだけ大きな 声を出して接客するようにトレーニング をしています」。  こうした努力の末に、週末になると店 の前には行列ができるまでになった。1 日の来客数が 500 人に達することもあ る。近くアメリカ3店舗目のトーランス 店も開店予定(取材した 2018 年 12 月時 点)。広島のお好み焼きが全米各地で食 べられるようになる日も近いかもしれ ない。

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 244

23


CULINARY

PROFESSIONALS San Francisco

Text & Photo: Elli Sekine

Ebisu A long-established sushi restaurant loved by the region —Sustaining while changing—

Ebisu 1283 9th Ave. San Francisco, CA   (415) 566-1770   https://ebisusushi.com

地域に愛される寿司の老舗 —変わりながら持続する—

L: Mon.-Fri. 11:30am-2:00pm Sat. 11:30am-2:30pm D: Mon.-Thurs. 5:00pm-10:00pm Fri. ,Sat. 5:00pm-11:00pm DATA

1. Average Price 客単価 L:$25, D:$80

2. Monthly Sales 月間売上平均 N/A 3. Food Cost フードコスト (%) N/A 4. Alcoholic Beverage Sales (%)

売上に対するアルコール比率

20%-

5. Alcoholic Beverage Sales by Type アルコール売上高 ( 種類別 ) Beer, Sake, Wine, Shochu 6. Target Customer 客層 Local, Family, Business, Tourists 7. Featured Menu メニューの特徴 Sushi made of fresh ingredients 8. Food Supplier 仕入れ先 Variety of Japanese food distributors 9. Number of Staff 従業員数 35 staff 10. Number of Seats 座席数 48 seats at table +16 counter 11. Opening Date 開店年月 1982 12. Varieties of Sake in Store

24

取り扱い日本酒の種類数、売れ筋

Masumi, Onigoroshi, Izumij-yudan

March 2019

E

bisu, which is going into their 37th year of operation this year, is a long-established restaurant that has been leading the sushi boom in San Francisco. This restaurant is located near the center of the Golden Gate Park, and had become a super popular place in the nineties, where people would wait in line for a long time. Since then, they have tried diversified management styles, and tried out new sushi business models. Actually, in the past 30 years, they have expanded the business by opening 3 new restaurants, then closing them, and currently running only the main location. In their history, you can identify the pros and cons of a familyrun operation. Ebisu has always been particular about quality and originality, and therefore, it was their management

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strategy to match the trends of the time. “The fundamentals are the most important things for the operation, which are consistent procurement of fresh ingredients, and the management,” says Erick, the 2nd generation owner.

Changing of management style according to the time… In 1999, Ebisu Family’s second location, “Hotei,” opened. It was a noodle specialty restaurant which no one paid attention to at that time. The secret dashi made at the main location across the street was used for the noodle soups, and their wide variety of menu items that included udon, soba, somen, showa-taste ramen, etc., and its casual atmosphere made this place a hit. “As long as the base for Japanese cuisine is solidly mastered, you can create any dish,” at that time said Steve who is the founder, and currently the chairman. Especially, the “Reimen (cold noodle)” with house-made rich sauce, which you could not get anywhere else, was their top menu item. Ususally, average time people spend at a noodle specialty restaurant is not long, and therefore, its rotation is quick. From the customers’ point of view, it was really convenient that the restaurant was open from lunch through dinner time, and it was nice that they could have Ebisu’s roll sushi at a reasonable price. This location, thus quickly became very popular. Some customers who could not get into “Ebisu” went there, too. However, due to the ramen boom that came later, those customers slowly left for wanting of the new thing, ramen. For the 2 years prior

to closing “Hotei”, they tried to continue by changing the owner, but finally closed its doors in 2015.

Catering sushi for parties… In the 2000s, the core business that they were running along with the restaurant business was catering of sushi for parties, and catering for business offices. With catering for weddings to business meetings at renowned hotels, they were extremely busy. The catering business was rapidly growing around that time as a new food business model. Erick, who was the leader of their catering business said, “It was really crazy, the situation we were in”, as he reminisced about those days when he was rushing around like crazy with his father and brothers. Presently, they are developing a well-balanced business based on the main location as the core. “Airport Ebisu”, the second location of “Ebisu”, and “Hotei”, the second location of “Hotei” at the Financial District In the early 2000s, the “Ebisu” family opened a branch at the new international terminal of SFO (San Francisco airport) which is known as “the most gourmet airport”. Ebisu was really standing out amongst the selection of restaurants and stores there, where the food culture unique to Northern California with the highest Asian population was symbolized in. Furthermore, the second “Hotei” opened in the Finance District, and their business was at its peak. On the


CULINARY PROFESSIONALS

今サンフランシスコで寿司ブームを

年 で 創 業 37 年 目 と な る Ebisu は、

牽引して来た老舗。ゴールデンゲート パークのほぼ中央に位置するサンセット 地区で 90 年代、行列の出来る繁盛店と して人気を誇っていた。その後多角経営 に挑戦し、新しい寿司店の経営法を実践 してきた。実際、この 30 年で3軒の新 規店舗を拡大しクローズし、現在は本店 のみが既存している。そこには、家族経 営の良さと難しさが見えてくる。また、 品質とオリジナリティにこだわる Ebisu ならではの時代に合わせた経営戦略でも あった。 「経営は基本が最も大切。それ は一貫して新鮮な食材の仕入れとマネー ジメントです」と2代目店主のエリック さんは語る。

時代に合わせ経営形態を変える  1999 年、Ebisu ファミリー第 2 号店と なる「Hotei」をオープンした。当時ま だ誰も見向きもしなかったヌードル店 だ。通り向かいに位置する本店で毎日取 る秘伝出汁をヌードルスープに応用す る手順でうどん、蕎麦、そうめん、そ して昭和の味のラーメンなど豊富なメ ニューとカジュアルさがウケた。 「和食 の基本さえしっかりしていれば、どんな メニューでも創作できる」と当時、創始 者で現会長のスティーブさんは言ってい た。特に自家製コッテリタレの「冷麺」 はここでしか食べられない絶品メニュー だった。ヌードル店は平均食事時間が短 く回転も早い。客にとっては営業時間は ランチからディナーまで通しなので便利 な上に、お得な値段で Ebisu のロール寿 司を食べられると言う事でたちまち繁盛 店となった。 「Ebisu」に入れない客も流 れていた。しかしその後到来したラーメ ンブームにより、客は新しいラーメン を求めて散って行った。閉店前 2 年間は

オーナーチェンジをし、2015 年「Hotei」 はそのドアを閉じた。 パーティ寿司ケータリング  2000 年代、レストラン営業と同時に 経営の柱となっていたのが、パーティー 出張寿司とビジネスケータリングだ。結 婚式から著名なホテルのミーティングま で引っ張りだことなった。ケータリング が新しい食ビジネスとして急成長したの もこの頃。その中心となって支えてきた エリックさんは、 「状況はクレージーだっ た」と父、兄弟と走り回った当時を振り 返る。現在、本店を軸としたバランスの 良いビジネスを展開している。 エアポート「Ebisu 」2号店と金融街 の「Hotei」2号店  2000 年代初頭、 「Ebisu」ファミリーは、 「全米で一番グルメな空港」と呼ばれる SFO( サンフランシスコ空港)の新国際 ターミナルに支店を出した。アジア人口 の比率が最も多い北カリフォルニアなら

ではの食文化を象徴した店舗セレクショ ンの中で Ebisu は際立っていた。さらに 「Hotei」2号店も金融街にオープンし、 経営は最高潮に達していた。しかしその 裏では人事やマネージメント面での苦労 が耐えなかったという。本店から距離 が遠いこともあり、 「常に目が届く範囲」 というスティーブさんの思惑からかけ離 れていたようだ。急激な日本食需要に人 材確保が追い付かない時代でもあった。 本店の大改装  2000 年代後半からサンフランシスコ は IT バブル期に突入し、和食高級店が 続々と出現し、Omakase や懐石メニュー を提供する “ ハイエンド ” レストランが 一 気 に 増 え た。Ebisu は 2008 年 に 店 内 の全面改装をしたが、30 数年間通して きた地元密着型のカジュアルレストラン の位置付けは変えなかった。その為トレ ンドに惑わされる事なく長年の常連客を 確保している。更に改装により、90 年 代の平凡な寿司店のイメージはモダンで 明るく広々としたイメージに変わり、新 しい客も呼び込んでいる。カウンター席 が増えた事で一人客も増えた。  一代で築いた老舗 Ebisu は時代と共に ビジネスの形態を変えながら歩んで来 た。変わらないのは新鮮なネタの提供と 地域の常連客のサポートだ。他人任せに しない家族経営店の信念は今2代目へと 引き継がれ、更なる進化を遂げようとし ている。

other hand, in the background of such successes, they were having constant hardships with administering of employees, and the management. The distance from the main restaurant seemed to be one of the reasons. The idea of Steve’s, “to keep everybody within the reach of his supervision”, was far from the reality. It was also the time when maintaining of human resources was not catching up with

the demands of the rapidly growing Japanese food businesses. In the second half of the 2000s, San Francisco went into the IT bubbling period, and high-end Japanese restaurants were appearing one after another. Fine dining restaurants that served Omakase and Kaiseki courses increased in number in a very short time. Ebisu did a renovation of the entire restaurant in 2008, but did not change their position all throughout the past 30 years

as a casual, locally based restaurant. Because of it, they still keep long-time regular customers without getting distracted by new trends. Moreover, due to the renovation, the older image of them, which is a usual typical sushi restaurant of the nineties, has transformed to a modern, bright, and spacious kind, which is drawing new types of customers. Adding more counter seats is contributing to the increase in the number of single customers.

The long-lasting Ebisu, which was established by a single generation, has been going forward by changing their business format along the way with the times. What has not changed is their offering of fresh ingredients, and their support of the local regular customers. Their family operation principle in which they do not rely completely on strangers, has been carried over to the second generation, and is still evolving.

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 244

25


CULINARY

PROFESSIONALS New York

Text&Photo : Aya Ota (www.bioartsnyc.com)

Kaikagetsu NYC Taste local Hida-region cuisine and sake in an old Japanese house-like atmosphere!

Kaikagetsu NYC 162 Orchard Street New York, NY 10002 (646) 590-3900 www.kaikagetsunyc.com

飛騨地方の郷土料理と地酒を、 古民家のような雰囲気で味わう

DATA

1. Average Price 客単価

About $100 (drink included, tax and tip not included)

2. Monthly Sales 月間売上平均 N/A 3. Food Cost フードコスト (%) Approximately 20-30% 4. Alcoholic Beverage Sales (%)

売上に対するアルコール比率

Approximately 30%

5. Alcoholic Beverage Sales by Type アルコール売上高 ( 種類別 ) Japanese sake accounts for 70% of the entire drink sales followed by beer, wine, and shochu. 6. Target Customer 客層 Younger-generation foodies in their twenties and thirties. 30 to 40% Japanese Man to woman ratio is 50/50. 7. Featured Menu メニューの特徴 Hida’s local cuisine. 3 Kaiseki courses (Kai course: $80, Ka (Vegan) course: $110, Getsu course: $220), plus plenty of à la carte dishes for pairing with sake 8. Food Supplier 仕入れ先 Mutual Trading, JFC International, Daiei, etc. Hida beef is procured through a special trader 9. Number of Staff 従業員数 15 staff members. Run with around 10 members all the time 10. Number of Seats 座席数 53 seats (including counter seats) 11. Opening Date 開店年月 September, 2018 (Soft open on June, 2018) was in September 12. Varieties of Sake in Store

取り扱い日本酒の種類数、売れ筋

N/A

Five Kinds of Appetizer

Hida Beef Nigiri Sushi Sampler ($35)

C

uniquCharacteristics of New York City are strongly reflected upon old brick buildings and graffiti on the walls of the Lower East Side. In this town, new hotels, galleries, restaurants, and bars have been appearing one after another in the past few years, and the scene of the town has been rapidly changing. One of them is “Kaikagetsu NYC” that has the Hida-region of Gifu prefecture as their theme, with a brand-new concept. When you step into the restaurant, being enchanted and led by the elegant swaying paper lanterns hung in the front, its beautiful interior catches your

Interior

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eyes first. You see lamps standing in line like on a street in the space where deep charcoal brown grainy woods, white walls and ceilings are effectively laid out. As you keep walking forward towards the heavy door in the back, you feel like you are walking down the street of the Hida region where old houses stand in line along the streets. A truly relaxing and elegant ambience has been produced there with impressively presented Mino Washi paper and local artifacts, etc. The dishes served there are dominated by the Hida-region’s local cuisine. Hida beef, a Gifu prefecture specialty, is featured as the main menu item, and they serve a wide variety of both traditional dishes such as “Hida

Interior

Beef Hoba Yaki” ($60) and “Hida Beef Toban Yaki” ($60), and modern version dishes such as “Hida Beef Curry” ($24) and “Hida Beef Skewers” ($24). The “Hida Beef Nigiri Sushi Sampler” ($35), which is sushi of lightly charboiled Hida beef, is particularly well received. Variations of possibilities of wagyu beef are exhibited one after another, which surprises and impresses you. As for Japanese sake, it is extremely carefully selected mainly amongst the Hida-region brands. “Tenryou Koshu” Junmai Daiginjo, which has a distinctive aroma, is especially popular, and many customers order it for pairing with Hida beef dishes. There, you can either choose to sit at a table to relax to enjoy a Kaiseki course, or sit at the bar to enjoy sake while having à la carte dishes. “Their unprecedented unique concept, Hida, and the ingredient, Hida beef, which is very attractive to Americans, must be appealing to New Yorkers,” says Tomoyuki Iwanami, the owner. Mr. Iwanami was born and raised in New York. He has a unique background. He worked in both the music and fashion industries. He was specialized in marketing and branding. The joint effort with Mr. Yasuo Shigeta, CEO, Forrest Fooding, Inc., also his friend of 10 years, who runs 37 various types of restaurants in Japan,


CULINARY PROFESSIONALS

煉グラフィティ…ニューヨークらし 瓦造りの古い建物や壁に描かれた

さを色濃く遺す街、ロウアーイーストサ イド。この数年、ホテルやギャラリー、 レストランやバーが次々登場し、急速に 変貌を遂げる中、またひとつ個性的な店 が誕生した。 『海華月 NYC』――岐阜県 飛騨地方をテーマにした、全く新しいコ ンセプトの店だ。  店頭で揺れる上品な提灯に誘われるよ うに足を踏み入れると、まず、その内装 の美しさに目を奪われる。深い焦げ茶色 の木目と白い壁や天井との対比を活かし た空間に、街頭のように並ぶランプ。店 の奥にある重厚感ある扉に向けて進む と、まるで飛騨地方の古民家が立ち並ぶ 街を歩いているかのような気分になる。 美濃和紙や民芸品を印象的に配置し、お 洒落かつ心からくつろげる雰囲気を演出 している。  料理は飛騨地方の郷土料理を取り入れ た内容。特に、岐阜県名産の飛騨牛を メニューの核に据え、 「飛騨牛の朴葉焼 き($60)」 「飛騨牛陶板焼き $60)」など の伝統的な料理から、 「飛騨牛のカレー $24)」 「 飛 騨 牛 の 串 焼 き(($24)」 な ど 現代的な料理まで、幅広く提供する。ご く軽く炙った飛騨牛で握る寿司 $35)も 好評で、和牛の可能性を次々に見せてく れ、驚かされる。日本酒は飛騨地方の地 酒を中心に厳選。特に、純米大吟醸『天 領古酒』は個性的な風味があり、飛騨牛 とあわせて楽しむ客が多いという。ゆっ くりとテーブルに着席して懐石料理コー スを満喫したり、バーカウンターに座っ てアラカルトをつまみながらお酒を味

Hida Beef Hoba Yak ($60)

Exterior

わったり、さまざまな楽しみ方ができる。  「飛騨という他にないコンセプト、飛 騨牛という米国人客に魅力的な食材が ニューヨーカーを引きつけている」と話 すのは、オーナーの岩波智之氏。岩波氏 は、ニューヨークで生まれ育ち、音楽や ファッション業界出身というユニークな 経歴があり、マーケティングやブラン ディングが専門分野。同氏の十年来の友 人であり、日本でさまざまな業態の飲食 店を 37 店舗経営する『フォレストフー ディング社』の代表取締役社長・重田保 夫氏と提携し、約 5 年前に「世界の食の 中心地・ニューヨークで、高級和食店を 開店する」という軸を元に、徹底した市 場調査を開始した。最も時間を割いたの

は、立地と物件探し。当初からロウアー イーストサイド地区には目を付けていた ものの、特にこの 1 年のめざましい変化 を見る中で、他の地域にはないエネル ギーや成長性を感じ、この場所に決定し たという。 「飛騨地方をテーマに据える」 ことは、実は、後から決めたことだとい う。既存物件の状況や、この地域の顧客 層や特性などを見極めた上で、フォレス トフーディング社が経営する業態から 『海華月』を選んだのだという。

started extensive market research about 5 years ago for the main purpose of opening a Japanese fine dining restaurant in New York, which is the center of the world of eatery. What they took most of their time was to look for the location and building. They had their eyes on the Lower East Side since the beginning; however, they felt a special energy and growth potential of this area by seeing the past year’s remarkable changes there, and eventually decided to choose this location. I found out that they had decided on the theme as the Hida region later on. They first determined the condition of the existing real estate candidates, local clientele and their characteristics, etc., and then chose “Kaikagetsu” as their themed restaurant among the running business models of Forrest Fooding Inc. The strong selling point of “Kaikagetsu NYC” is, no need to say, its particularity about ingredients and cooking style. They brought as many as 3 chefs from Japan, who are experienced and well established in Kaiseki cuisine. Their truly authentic and delicately crafted dishes are very well recognized. The colorful presentation of each dish that makes you feel the

present season, looks like a piece of art. Playful arrangements are applied to daily changing ingredients by the chefs, and never bore even the repeating customers. Such strengths of theirs was taken into their branding strategy, and used for choosing the media that are particular about foods and drink, for their advertisements. They also invited concierges of nearby hotels to introduce their concept and dishes so they can recommend the restaurant to the hotel guests. Diligent efforts such as those worked out, and the restaurant has become a place where gourmet customers who want to eat good food, gather despite the location which, you cannot say, is really convenient to reach. “As a Japanese who was born and raised in New York, I wanted to do something for Japan,” continues Mr. Iwanami. Aside from running the restaurant, he is contributing to the exchange of Japan/US food cultures by hiring novice chefs who are interested in Japanese cuisine, and training them, etc. I’d really like you to visit this restaurant where you can fully enjoy good old Japanese elegant ambience and local cuisine.

 『海華月 NYC』の強みは、なんと言っ ても食材と料理にこだわっていること。 日本から、懐石料亭で経験と実績を積ん だシェフを 3 人も連れてきており、本格 的で丁寧に細工された料理には定評があ る。季節感や大事にした彩り豊かな盛り 付けは、まるで芸術作品のようだ。毎日 の食材に応じて、シェフたちが遊び心あ ふれるアレンジを施し、常連が何度訪れ ても飽きさせることがない。その強みを ブランディング戦略にも取り入れ、ソフ トオープン当初は、食や酒にこだわりの 強い媒体を選んで、記事掲載を仕掛けた という。また、近隣のホテルのコンシェ ルジェを招待し、コンセプトや料理を紹 介し、宿泊客に勧めてもらうように働き かけた。こういった地道な戦略が功を奏 し、決して交通の便がよい立地とは言え ないが、 「美味しいものを食べたい」と いうグルメな客が集う店として注目され ている。  「ニューヨークで生まれ育った日本人 として、日本のために何かできれば」と 岩波氏は続ける。レストラン経営の一方 で、和食に興味のあるシェフの卵を見習 いとして雇いトレーニングするなど、日 米の食文化交流にも貢献する。  古き良き日本の風情や郷土料理を心ゆ くまで楽しめる店、ぜひ足を運んでほ しい。

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NEWS TRENDS

Tochigi Rice & Strawberry Tasting Event

-A tasting event of rice and strawberries of Tochigi Prefecture was held.栃木のお米といちご試食会 開催

Presentation for Mr. Watanabe

On

January 20, a tasting event of Tochigi-produced rice and strawberries was held at Wadatsumi, a Japanese restaurant in a Los Angeles suburb, and gathered a lot of participants. To open this event, Mr. Kazuaki Watanabe, the Director General, Department of Agriculture of Tochigi Prefecture Government, who was visiting Los Angeles to promote the prefecture’s produce, made a presentation about the Tohchigi Prefecture. Mr.

Strawberry Pie

Strawberry Mont Blanc with Skyberry

Watanabe introduced in his speech, the charms of the prefecture; “Strawberry production in Tochigi Prefecture is so much that it is called the strawberry kingdom. Its strawberry production quantity has been the highest in Japan throughout the last half century. Tochigi also produces highly acclaimed rice brands called Tochigi no Hoshi, and Nasuhikari. As for the strawberry production, Tochigi has a one and only specialized research and development

Wrapped with Tochigi Wagyu

center, where new strawberry brands are developed daily. From the tourism point of view, there are many places to visit. There is Nikko, which has been certified as a World Heritage Site, Nasu, where our Emperor visits often in the summer for vacation, and Ashikaga Flower Park, where a fantasy-like scenery is created when wisteria flowers bloom’. In the dining space of the chosen place, Wadatsumi, a buffet style display of sushi and desserts using strawberries, rice balls made with Tochigi-produced rice, etc., was set up, and entertained a long line of visitors. Wadatsumi’s chefs cooked the wonderful food there. The Tochiotome brand

Rice Balls and Tochigi Strawberry Sushi Roll

strawberries and big SkyBerries were brought in from Japan. The aforementioned Mr. Watanabe stated as follows regarding the prospect for Tochigi strawberries in the future American market, “The SkyBerry brand strawberries are not only big in size, but also solid with no hollowness in the middle. I expect that they would do well as nice gift items. However, if we want to promote the sales of them in full scale in the US, bringing them by air from Japan would raise a cost performance issue. So, I would like to achieve this goal of bringing them to the US by studying the best possible way of transportation.”

Left: Tochihonoka, Above: Skyberry

1 月本食レストラン、わだつみを会 20 日、 ロ サ ン ゼ ル ス 近 郊 の 日

場に、栃木県産の米といちごを使った料 理の試食会が多くの参加者を集めて開催 された。最初に、県産品の PR のために ロサンゼルスを訪れた栃木県農政部長の 渡邉和明氏より、栃木県についてのプレ ゼンテーションが行われた。渡邉氏は「栃 木県はいちご王国と言われるほど、いち ごの生産が盛んで、過去半世紀にわたり 日本一の生産量を誇っている。また、と ちぎの星、なすひかりという品種の米の 評判も高い。いちごに関しては日本で唯 一、専門の研究開発センターがあり、そ こを拠点に新たな品種開発に日々取り組 んでいる。観光に目を向けると、世界遺 産に認定された日光、天皇陛下が頻繁に 訪れる避暑地の那須、開花時期には藤の 花が幻想的な美しさを見せる足利フラ ワーパークなど見所も多い」と、栃木県

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の魅力について紹介した。  会場となったわだつみのダイニングス ペースには、いちごを使った寿司やデ ザート、栃木産の米で作られたおにぎり などがビュッフェ形式で並べられ、参加 者が長い列に並んで楽しんだ。今回の料 理はわだつみのシェフが腕を振るったも の。いちごはとちおとめと大粒のスカイ ベリーが日本から持ち込まれた。  前出の渡邉氏は、栃木産いちごとアメ リカ市場での今後の見通しについて「ス カイベリーは粒が大きいだけでなく中央 に空洞がなくぎっしりと身が詰まってい るのが特徴。ギフト用に活躍すると期待 している。アメリカで本格的に売り出す ためには、航空便を利用するとコスト面 が課題となる。今後、最適な輸送方法を 検討することで、アメリカ上陸を果たし たい」と語った。


70

Chapter 4: The Many Hardships of Expatriates Overcoming a greatest crisis from my tofu products returning a favor I couldn’t get out of my head the very next time I entered the U.S. Although I was happy to enter Mexico, not being able to get back into the U.S. was going to present a problem. After the meeting, I quickly headed to the Consulate General of Japan in Mexico to explain my grave dilemma and begged for permission to leave Mexico with my VIP executives. As expected, the reception I received at the passport agency was cold. Their demeanor was decidedly accusatory as if to imply, “If you leave Mexico right now, you could be arrested at the airport for using an expired passport for unlawful entry into Mexico,” as if I am a criminal. Perhaps from regretting being cold towards me, the service agent continued in a more compassionate tone mixed with sympathy, “You have two ways to exit Mexico. First, return directly to Japan. Your other option is to have your passport re-issued at the Consulate General of Japan in Mexico. However, getting your passport reissued requires documents such as the Certificate of the Family Register, etc. You’ll be required to stay in Mexico until your passport is reissued.” Since Japan was in the middle of a holiday, government offices were closed. Even if I were able to get my documents, it would still take at least over a week. The VIP guests will be leaving tomorrow. I have to go with them, no matter what. Not to sound dramatic, but my future as “Mr. Tofu,” the businessman, was at stake. I had no option left but to beg the

駐在員の悲哀 

Consulate General of Japan for support. I asked the President of a Japanese travel agency residing in Mexico for the past thirty years if there was anyway I could meet and speak to the Consul General. The President pleasantly agreed to my request. Nothing is more comforting in a foreign land than someone’s kindness. My meeting was immediately arranged. The Consulate General was younger than I expected with the air of dignity of an elite diplomat. As I started to feel depressed by his question, “What is your profession in the U.S.?” I gathered my courage to respond, “I sell tofu products.” I quickly continued in one breath, “I promote Mori-Nu Tofu products that can be freshly-prepared and stored long-term to both Japanese and American consumers to contribute to increase Japanese exports.” I can’t help getting passionate when I start talking about our tofu products. Even I am surprised by my own affection towards my tofu products I’ve sold long-term. That was the moment when the Consulate General’s expression changed. “Do you sell this tofu product packaged in red and blue?” he asked. “Uh, yes. Absolutely.” I stumbled in my response as the Consulate General leaned forward. “When I was first appointed here in Mexico several months ago, I was very happy to come across this tofu product. I have a weakness for tofu.” Even though I had no recollections of focusing my efforts into sales in Mexico, the Consul General is a very important appreciated customer of Mori-Nu Tofu. After the Consul General

Yasuo Kumoda Born in Karafuto in 1941. Raised in Hokkaido. Graduated Aoyama Gakuin University in 1965 and joined Morinaga Milk Industry Co Ltd. Went to IPC in Denmark as a university in 1971. Resumed his career in 1973 and joined the new product development division where he developed Bifidus milk. Joined the international division afterwards and participated in the project to preserve tofu long-term. Assigned to the U.S. to start a local company in 1985. Founded the Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. in May 1985, and assumed the post of President. In 2005, left the post of President and assumed an advisory role.

left, the passport service agent came and いのだ。大げさだがミスター・トーフのサ said, “Please come back to the Consulate ラリーマン人生がかかっている。かくなる three hours later for your passport. We’ll うえは領事にお願いするしかない。30 年 間メキシコに在住する日本人旅行会社社長 issue it urgently.” It happened so suddenly; I was at a に、何とか領事と面会できないかとお願い loss for words. As I was leaving, I was した。社長は快く引き受けてくれた。見知 encouraged with the supportive words, らぬ土地での親切ほど身にしみるものはな “Best of luck in your business promot- い。面会はすぐ実現した。 ing tofu products.” I was so happy; I  領事は予想外に若く、エリート外交官 「アメリカでの職業 could’ve floated up to heaven. I spent らしい風格があった。 years passionately selling my beloved は?」との質問に、落ち込む気分の中、残 tofu products. Perhaps, my passion for り少ないエネルギーを振り絞って「豆腐の 販売です」と答えた。 「長期間作りたての tofu products resonated. I exited the pretentious iron gate ま ま 保 存 で き る Mori-Nu Tofu を 日 本 人、 of the Consul General of Japan, greeted アメリカ人に普及させることにより、日本 by the same blue sky I left back in Los の貿易に貢献しているのです」と、一気に Angeles. The sun shining in the Mexico 続けた。豆腐の話になるとつい力が入る。 sky stung my eyes as the breeze blew 長年連れ添った豆腐への愛着には、われな by. As I was relieved of all concerns, I がら驚くほどだ。そのとき、領事の顔色が thought to myself, “This must be my tofu 変わった。 「あの赤と青のパックに入った豆腐です products returning the favor.” “ 豆腐の恩返し ” で 最大の危機を乗り切る  私の頭から離れなかったのは、次のアメ リカへの入国だ。メキシコへ来たのはいい が、帰れないようでは話にならない。会議 が終わった後、さっそくメキシコの日本大 使館領事館に出向き、一部始終を説明し、 弊社の VIP たちと一緒に出国できるように 懇願した。旅券窓口の対応は予想通り冷た かった。 「このまま出国しますと空港で旅 券偽造、不法入国で逮捕される」と、もう 罪人と決めかかった言い方だった。  しかし、係員は少し冷たくしすぎたと 思ったのか「出国の方法としては二つあり ます。一つは、日本に直接帰国することで す。もう一つが、メキシコ日本領事館で再 発行する方法です。しかし、再発行には戸 籍抄本 extract of family register 等の書類 がどうしても必要です。発行まであなたは メキシコに滞在することになります」と少 しやさしく哀れみの口調で言った。日本は 連休の真っ最中、役所はすべてお休みだ。 書類を取り寄せるのにどうしたって 1 週間 以上かかる。VIP の出発は明日に迫ってい る。私はどうしても一緒に行かねばならな

か?」 「ハ、ハイ。そうです」とどもりながら答 える私に、彼は身を乗り出してきた。 「私が数カ月前にメキシコに赴任して、偶 然この豆腐を見つけたとき、それはそれは うれしかった。豆腐には目がなくってね」  メキシコでの販売には力を入れた記憶は ないが、確かにこの領事が Mori-Nu Tofu のありがたいお客であることは間違いな い。領事が立ち去った後、旅券発行の係官 が来て言った。 「パスポートの件ですが、3 時間したらま た領事館にお越しください。緊急発行しま しょう」  突然だったので、あっけにとられてし まった。帰り際には「豆腐の販売促進、が んばってください」と励まされもした。私 は天にものぼる気分であった。あきらめず に情熱を注ぎ込んできた我が愛する豆腐。 その豆腐が、そんな私の気持ちをわかって くれたのだろうか。日本領事館のものもの しい鉄の門を出た。ロサンゼルスを出発し たときと同じ青い空がそこにあった。メキ シコの空にかかげられた日の丸が、そよ風 に揺られやけに目にしみたものである。す べての心配から解き放たれ、自由の身に なった私はふと思った。“ これは鶴ならぬ 豆腐の恩返しだ ” と。

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Vol. 29

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C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

UNITED STATES Corporate Headquarters

Address: 24 Link Drive, Rockleigh, NJ 07647 Phone: 201-750-0024 | Fax: 201-750-0025

Atlanta

Address: 4554 Stonegate Ind. Blvd., Stone Mountain, GA 30083 Phone: 678-317-9200 | Fax: 678-317-9201

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Address: 300 Dominion Drive, Morrisville, NC 27560 Phone: 919-655-1290 | Fax: 919-782-5899

Sacramento

Address: 8384 Rovana Circle, Sacramento, CA 95828 Phone: 916-383-6007 | Fax: 916-383-4799

San Diego

Address: 7727 Formula Place, San Diego, CA 92121 Phone: 858-831-7728 | Fax: 858-831-7752

San Francisco

Address: 1815 Williams Street, San Leandro, CA 94577 Phone: 510-352-8140 | Fax: 510-352-7488

Phoenix

Seattle

Portland

Tampa

Address: 835 W. 22nd Street, #107, Tempe, AZ 85282 Phone: 480-377-8783 | Fax: 480-377-9379 Address: 301 East Grand Blvd., Vancouver, WA 98661 Phone: 360-695-9577 | Fax: 360-695-9578

Address: 1501 South 92nd Place, Suite D Seattle, WA 98108 Phone: 206-766-8006 | Fax: 206-766-8176 Address: 5606 N. 50th Street Tampa, FL 33610 Phone: 813-422-7263 | Fax: 813-422-7272

CANADA Vancouver

Address: 12417 #2 Road, Unit #155D, Vancouver, BC V7E6H7, Canada Phone: 604-878-1994 | Fax: 604-275-3265

Halifax

Address: RR#2 40 Goodick Road, Shelburne, NS B0T1W0, Canada Phone: 902-875-2310 | Fax: 902-875-2353

Montreal

Address: 705 Meloche Avenue, Dorval, QC, H9P2S4, Canada Phone: 514-990-0611 | Fax: 514-631-1664

Toronto

Address: 2480 Cawthra Road #28, Mississauga, ON L5A2X2, Canada Phone: 905-279-5977 | Fax: 905-279-5574

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