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The Magazine for Food Professionals in the U.S.A.

February 2019


Vol. 29 No.243 $5.00

2013年 “和食 ” ユネスコ無形文化遺産登録

Japanese Cuisine Designated intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO

2018 Hichimi-kai General Meeting and Seminar -Contributing to local communities through Japanese cuisine-

七味会 2018 年総会とセミナーを開催 ―日本食を通して地域社会に貢献―

Japanese Restaurant Trends in the U.S. The number of Japanese restaurants operating in the U.S. reached 18,000



Los Angeles, CA Permit No. 32641


Japanese sake made in San Diego, a mecca for the craft culture クラフト文化のメッカ サンディエゴで作る日本酒


February 2019 Vol. 29, No. 243

(電子版では12ページ部分が中国語、韓国語に翻訳されてます。 よければご意見ください。alljapannews@gmail.comまでお願いします)

(在電子版中,12頁部分被翻譯成中文。如果可以的話,請給我們意見。請聯繫 (전자 버전에서는 12 페이지 부분이 한국어로 번역되어 있습니다. 괜찮으시다면 alljapannews@gmail.com으로 연락주시기 바랍니다.)

16 Sake Shochu Beer Institute of America Appropriate Storage and Management 米国酒焼酎麦酒研究所 / 適切な保存管理

17 Tokyo Jizake Strolling A journey through Shiga Prefecture 東京地酒散歩 滋賀県の旅



Japanese Restaurant Trends in the U.S.



SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB Perceptional changes


社長22人が明かす「オンリーワンの店づくり、 わが社ならではの組織づくり」


Sommelier Talk 60 / The Optimum Kanzake: Aiming For The Best Temperature ソムリエトーク 60話:熱燗の温度


California SaKe Challenge 136: Nanbu Bijin Introduced to Los Angeles: Part 2 酒豪大陸136: 南部美人ロサンゼルスへ その2



2018 Hichimi-kai General Meeting and Seminar -Contributing to local communities through Japanese cuisine-


Validation to Prepare Delicious Hot Sake




A restaurant that offers Okinawan cuisine using Japanese cooking skills effectively 和食の技効かせた沖縄料理の店

七味会 2018年総会とセミナーを開催 ―日本食を通して地域社会に貢献―

24 “Highest-quality sushi you can taste at a metropolitan train station you happened to stop by” is the concept



Japanese sake made in San Diego, a mecca for the craft culture


1467 W. 178th Street. Suite 201 Gardena, CA 90248 Tel: (213) 680-0011 Fax: (213) 680-0020 E-mail: ©2019 All Japan News Inc. All rights reserved.

Publisher All Japan News Inc Managing Editor David Kudo Editor-in-Chief Hiroshi Kawabata Designer Ritsuko Lynch Contributing Writers Keiko Fukuda, Kosuke Kuji Yasuo Kumoda, Yuji Matsumoto Aya Ota, Elli Sekine Special Thanks to JETRO / JETAASC

We’re Member of Japan Business Association, Japanese Chamber of Commerce of Southern California, Hollywood Chamber of Commerce, Japanese Restaurant Association of America and Supporters Conference for WASHOKU.

ジャパニーズ・レストランニュース 北米には 25,000 店を越す日本食レス トランがあります。その勢いは和食が ユネスコ無形文化遺産に登録されたこ ともありさらに伸びています。本誌は この日本食レストラン業界にスポット をあて、何が流行っているのか、また 繁盛店の紹介を通し、繁盛店のオペ レーションや時代を生き抜くヒントを 紹介します。最新の話題店舗や人気商 品などを紹介し、日本食レストランの 繁盛を応援します。また、アメリカの 最新の食品衛生管理に関する情報など も提供し業界の発展に寄与します。

クラフト文化のメッカ サンディエゴ

A place you can enjoy various kinds of Japanese local sake and cuisine to the fullest

Mission of Japanese Restaurant News



In North America, over 25,000 Japanese restaurants are in business. This momentum is increasing even more since Japanese cuisine was recognized by UNESCO as one of the world’s intangible cultural heritages. This magazine spotlights the Japanese restaurant industry to introduce the latest trends and successful restaurants along with their operations to provide hints on how to survive the competitive restaurant industry. Further, this magazine introduces the latest restaurants garnering attention and popular products, along with the prosperity of Japanese restaurants. Lastly, this magazine also introduces the latest information on food sanitation and management to contribute to the development of the Japanese restaurant industry as a whole.

Emperor’s Birthday Reception held by the Consulate General of Japan in Los Angeles 在ロサンゼルス日本国総領事主催天皇誕生日 祝賀レセプション


Was sake once prohibited in Japan?



18 “How to Create a One-Of-A-Kind Izakaya Restaurant, Creating an Organization Like None Other” as Revealed by 22 Founders

All Japan News, Inc.

February 2019


A GROBAL CHALLENGE They Call Me “Mr. Tofu”



By David Kudo

2018 Hichimi-kai General Meeting and Seminar -Contributing to local communities through Japanese cuisine七味会 2018 年総会とセミナーを開催 ―日本食を通して地域社会に貢献―

Takamitsu Ozawa, President of Hichimi-kai (left), Yoshiya Tokita of Tokio Marine North America, Inc.


ichimi-kai, consisting of sixty Japanese-affiliated food manufacturers expanding into the U.S. (founded by 1980 / President, Takamitsu Ozaka of Otafuku Foods). The Board of Directors Meeting and the winter seminar were held on December 4, 2018 in Torrance, Calif., attended by seventyfive corporate members. Toshikazu Hayashi, Deputy Consul General of the Consulate General of Japan greeted his guests and said, “This year, we provided the venue to sponsor an event to introduce specialty products from various regions throughout Japan. We very much appreciate the cooperation received from corporate members of Hichimi-kai during the Japanese Emperor Akihito’s birthday celebration, and look forward to seeing continued growth of each corporate member of Hichimi-kai.” Kaori Amano, Director of Japan America Society, gave a toast to kickoff the harmonious event, followed by a regular meeting marked by an announcement on outgoing/incoming executive members and the introduction of new members. During the seminar that followed, Yoshiya Tokita of Tokio Marine North America, Inc., discussed recalled food products. Some products are recalled for several hundreds of thousands or millions in quantity at once, with the discussion expanding from the latest information to strategies, received with many questions. Recalls of food products are not rare in the U.S., with

lifestyle improvements required to improve both the food product industry and allergies, with food products proposed to develop high immunity such as soy bean products, cacti, Fucoidan, etc. Also, the importance of preparing for lawsuits was discussed. David Kudo of All Japan News announced the latest trends in Japanese restaurants operating in the U.S., and the predicted number of restaurants anticipated to be operating in 2025. Also, Ai Kuriyama of JETRO expressed her appreciation for Hichimikai’s activities and announced the “Surveyed Trends among Japanese Restaurants in the U.S.,” summarized by JETRO. Takamitsu Ozawa, Chairman of Hichimi-kai, expressed his gratitude for the cooperation received by Hichimikai members, and requested continued support for future seminars and events. Hichimi-kai is contributing to the introduction of information pertaining to Japanese cuisine and the widespread

米カー 60 社で構成する七味会(1980


年設立 / 小澤孝充会長、オタフクフーズ) は総会役員会、冬のセミナーを 2018 年 12 月 4 日カリフォルニア州トーレンス 市において開催し 75 名が参加した。  在ロサンゼルス総領事館からは林 和 俊首席領事が挨拶し、 「今年も各地方か ら物産紹介イベント開催場所提供などで 協賛し、天皇誕生日祝賀会では七味会各 社の協力に感謝し今後も七味会各社の発 展に期待する」と述べた。  日米協会の天野香織ディレクターの乾 杯で会は和やかに開始し、定例会では役 員の交代、新入会員の紹介が行われた。 続くセミナーでは東京海上の鴇田佳哉氏 が食品リコールについて話した。  1回に何十万,何百万にも上るリコー ルもあり最新情報とそれに対する対策ま

consumption of Japanese cuisine in the U.S. We anticipate continued growth for our corporate members in the future.

で話は及び、多くの質問も飛んでいた。  米国では食品のリコールが珍しくな く、食品業界と、食アレルギーには生活 改善が必要で、免疫力が強い食材として 大豆製品、サボテン、フコイダンなどを 上げた。また、訴訟問題の準備が日頃か ら必要と話した。また、弊誌レストラン ニュース・デビッド工藤が、米国の最近 の日本食店舗の動向と 2025 年の店舗予 想数を発表した。  続いてジェトロの栗山 藍氏が七味会 の活動に感謝を述べた後、ジェトロのま とめた “ 米国における日本食レストラン ン動向調査 ” を近々発表すると話した。 七味会 小沢孝充会長は日頃の会員の協 力に感謝するとともに今後もセミナー、 イベントなどへ更なる協力を依頼した。  米国において日本食の普及に貢献し、 情報発信をしている七味会の果たしてい る役割は大きく、今後ますますの発展を 期待したい。

Ai Kuriyama , Director of JETRO Los Angeles (Left) Kaori Amano, Director of Japan America Society (Right)

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 243



Japanese Restaurant Trends in the U.S. 米国における日本食レストラン動向 The number of Japanese restaurants operating in the U.S. reached 18,000 The rapid growth in the number of Japanese restaurants operating in the U.S. in the past 26 years is evident in 18,600 Japanese restaurants total operating in the U.S., 1.32 times the reported figure in 2010 (14,129 restaurants) 8 years ago, 2.03 times the reported figure in 2005 (9,182 restaurants) 12 years ago, and 3.11 times the reported figure in 2000, 18 years ago. The number of Japanese restaurants in operation by state ranks California as the No. 1 highest state with 4,468 restaurants, 1.13 times the reported figure in 2010; New York ranking in at No. 2 with 1,892 restaurants, 1.31 times the reported figure in 2010. In 2005, Florida (previously ranked No. 4) surpassed Washington State to rank No. 3 with 1,266 Japanese restaurants in operation (1.35 times the reported figure in 2010), leaving Washington State at rank No. 4 with 898 restaurants in operation (1.09 times this reported figure in 2010).

全米の日本食レストランは 1万8千軒に  全米の日本食レストランの軒数は 18,600 軒 で、 こ れ は 8 年 前 の 2010 年 (14,129 軒)の 1.32 倍、12 年前の 2005 年(9,182 軒 ) の 2.03 倍、18 年 前 の 2000 年の 3.11 倍、本調査と同様の調査 が始まった 1992 年(3,051 軒)の 6.1 倍 であり、この 26 年間の全米での日本食 レストラン軒数の飛躍的な増加を確認す ることができる。  州別の軒数では、第1位のカリフォル ニ ア 州 は 4,468 軒 で 2010 年 の 1.13 倍、 第 2 位 の ニ ュ ー ヨ ー ク 州 は 1,892 軒 で 2010 年 の 1.31 倍 で あ る。 続 い て 2005 年に第4位であったフロリダ州がワシ ン ト ン 州 を 抜 き、1,266 軒(2010 年 の 1.35 倍)、ワシントン州は第4位で 898 軒(2010 年の 1.09 倍)であった。


February 2019

Since data aggregation on the number of Japanese restaurants operating in the U.S. began in 1992, Japanese restaurants concentrated in cities in the East and West Coasts such as California, New York, Washington, Florida, states where Japanese immigrants relocated, or Japanese expatriates and nationals preferred to reside, with higher population of Japanese and Japanese Americans. While there are various reasons for California consistently reigning as the top state with the highest number of Japanese restaurants in operation, one reason is because California is the first state where Japanese immigrants immigrated to the U.S. mainland. The history of Japanese immigration in this region spans across 134 years since a Japanese national opened the first Japanese restaurant in the U.S. in 1884, the background behind Japanese cuisine being consumed daily since.

Also, the sizeable population of their descendants increased the consumer population for Japanese cuisine, heightening the demand for Japanese restaurants in the mainland. California is where Japanese cuisine was first introduced in the mainland when Charles Kame opened “Kame Restaurant” in 1885, the first Japanese restaurant on the U.S. mainland, located on 340 East First Street in the Little Tokyo district of Los Angeles. This restaurant created an opportunity to establish Japan town, known as the “Little Tokyo” district in downtown Los Angeles, the starting point for Japanese restaurants to become widespread throughout the U.S. Eventually, Japanese restaurants opened in all U.S. states in 2003. In California, Japanese restaurants were in operation since 118 years ago, established much longer than other states where Japanese cuisine was familiarized through locals

 1992 年に米国内の日本食レストラン 軒数の集計が始まって以来、日本食レス トランはカリフォルニア州、ニューヨー ク州、ワシントン州、フロリダ州など、 西海岸と東海岸の都市部に集中してい る。これらの州には古くから日本からの 移民が移り住んだ土地や在留邦人が好ん で住む地域が多く、州内の日本人・日系 人人口が高い傾向にある。  特に一貫してトップの座を独走するカ リフォルニア州に日本食レストランが多 いのには様々な理由があるが、まず日本 人移民が最初に移り住んだ米国本土の土 地であることが挙げられる。この地の日 本人移民の歴史は 1884 年に日本人が日 本食レストランを米国に開店して以来 134 年以上に及び、古くから日常的に日 本食が食べられていた背景がある。  そして彼らの子孫である日系人が多く 育ったため、日本食を食す人口が増加し 日本食レストランへのニーズも本土でい ち早く高まった。実際、カリフォルニア 州は本土における日本食発祥の地でもあ る。1885 年にチャールズ・カメ・浜田 浜之助がロサンゼルス • ダウンタウンの 東一番街 340 番地に本土で初めての日本 食レストランとなる「カメレストラン」 を開店している。  これを契機にロサンゼルスのダウンタ ウンに日本人街「リトル東京」が起こり、 全米で日本食レストランが広がる出発点 となった。米国の全ての州で日本食レス トランが開店したのは 2003 年のこと。 カリフォルニア州では、その 118 年前か ら日本食レストランが存在し、他の州よ りも長い時間を掛けて地元の人々にとっ

て日本食が身近になっていったことが、 他州に比べ日本食レストラン数が多いこ との背景の一つである。  加えて、カリフォルニア州と日本との 距離の近さも重要な要素である。同州の ロサンゼルスやサンフランシスコが米国 本土内で日本から物理的に最も近い土地 であることは、日本人移民が最初に渡っ た土地であった事の理由の一つである が、その後日系企業が米国への進出する 際の窓口都市となった理由でもある。そ して同州では日系企業で働く駐在員やそ の家族の米国移住によって、日本食材の 需要が急速に伸び、同時に多くの日本食 品関連企業の進出先ともなったため、米、 魚、野菜、飲料、日本酒などの日本食材 が他州より早く提供された。また、全米 に先駆けて健康ブームが起こった土地柄 であり、健康志向が広がっていたため、 日本食材を受け入れる土壌もあった。さ らには、日本人・日系人以外のアジア 人・アジア系米国人人口が多い土地であ ることも挙げられる。後述するが日本食 レストランの経営者の大半は日本人・日 系人以外のアジア人・アジア系米国人で ある。カリフォルニア州はもともとアジ ア人移民の人口が多く、また日本人・日 系人以外のアジア人・アジア系米国人の 人口増加率も高い。そのため新しくレス トランをオープンする際に日本食を選ぶ オーナー層が厚かったことも原因の一つ である。 *この記事はジェトロが 2018 年 12 月に発行し た “ 米国における日本食レストラン動向 ” からの 転載です。

”To purchase Japanese restaurant data contact to All Japan News 213-680-0011” “ 日本食レストランデータの購入はオールジャパンニュース 213-680-0011 まで 問い合わせください。”

over a longer period of time, one factor indicating why California is home to a higher number of Japanese restaurants than other states. In addition, the short distance between California and Japan is another important factor. California cities such as Los Angeles and San Francisco are physically closest to Japan in the U.S. mainland, one reason why Japanese immigrants initially emigrated there. These cities became the gateway for Japanese companies to expand into the U.S. much later, rapidly increasing the demand for Japanese food ingredients for Japanese expatriates working for Japanese corporations and their families who moved to the U.S., thus also the initial destination for many Japanese food manufacturers and affiliated corporations that expanded to the U.S. to distribute Japanese rice, fish, vegetables, beverages, Japanese sake, etc., much earlier than other states.

California also led the health craze in the U.S., where heightened health consciousness became widespread, which generated greater mainstream acceptance of Japanese food ingredients. Further, California is also home to a higher population of Asians and Asian American populations other than the Japanese and Japanese Americans. Most of the Japanese restaurant owners are Asian and Asian Americans other than Japanese and Japanese Americans. California was always home to a higher population of Asian immigrants with higher rate of increase in Asian and Asian American populations other than the Japanese and Japanese Americans, another reason behind many owners choosing Japanese cuisine to open new restaurants. *This report was referred from “Japanese Restaurant Trends in the U.S.” (12/2018) published by JETRO.

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Vol. 29

No. 243


Ayaka Ito

Owner of BESHOCK Ramen & Sake Bar

by Ayaka Ito

Born in Nagoya, Aichi prefecture. Started going abroad including the US, Canada, and South Korea to study and deepen knowledge while still in high-school. Encountered with Japanese sake in Tohoku, while being involved in a long-term volunteering activity for the Great East Japan Earthquake. Sake of Miyagi, a famous region for sake making, was so impressive— ”I didn’t know such delicious domestic sake existed in Japan!” BESHOCK was opened in San Diego to let the world know the goodness of Japanese sake and Japanese cuisine for a responsibility as a specialist/Sake sommelier.

Japanese sake made in San Diego, a mecca for the craft culture



o you know there is a sake brewery in San Diego, a mecca for the craft culture? In this issue, I am featuring “Setting Sun Sake”, the only sake brewery in San Diego. This sake brewery was opened in Miramar in October of 2016 to make local sake which is unique to San Diego, where a motto, “Local production for Local consumption” is being carried out. The base ingredient, rice, is 100% Calrose rice made in California, and combining it with house-made rice malt and yeast makes this local sake. The strongest advantage of making sake locally is that unpasteurized sake which tends to change its characteristics easily can be enjoyed quickly. All the sake made at Setting Sun Sake is unpasteurized fresh sake. Josh, their brewer, has worked in the craft beer industry for a long time. “There are already plenty of beer breweries in San Diego, so I will try to make Japanese sake since nobody has tried to make it here yet.” He had no knowledge of making sake. By getting information from books and videos about sake which were very scarce, he imitated, simulated, and fumbled his way to make his first Japanese sake. He told me one of such episodes of those days. His first sake made to convince his business partner to build a sake brewery tasted so very awful! Is has been almost 2 years since its opening. The production quantity and tastes have been stabilized, and unpasteurized bottled and draft version sake are now sold at not only the tasting room, but also at local liquor stores and restaurants. At the tasting room in Miramar, you can enjoy their signature items, “Clear” and “Cloudy”, and other kinds infused with seasonal fruits and flowers/herbs by rotation. My favorites are “Violescent Waves”, infused with lavender and lemonade, and “Hoppy Sake”, very San Diegolike sake fused with beer. The Hoppy Sake is acidic, and tastes like sour beer,


February 2019

©Setting Sun Sake

©Setting Sun Sake

©Setting Sun Sake

©Setting Sun Sake

Setting Sun Sake: 8680 Miralani Drive, Suite 120, San Diego, CA 92126 (951) 757-1393, Mon-Thu: 3pm-9pm Fri, Sat: Noon-10pm Sun: Noon-9pm

and its refreshing taste should be best for hot summer weather. In Japan, the liquor tax act defines Japanese sake as an alcoholic beverage which is made with fermented rice and malted rice with water as its base, and its alcoholic content should be equal or less than 22%, and therefore, infused Japanese sake falls into the liquor category. However, in the US, there is no such regulations, and you can sell infused kind as Sake. Lately, in Japan, such sake-based liquors, for example, cloudy strawberry-infused or Yuzu flavored sake-based liquors, are becoming very popular among younger generation of drinkers. This should be a welcoming movement as a trigger to approach to the world of sake for the people in San Diego as well, where the craft culture has been rooted in. “Setting Sun Sake” brewery is located near Miralani Maker’s District, where locally rootedin private makers gather, which include wine, beer, cider, and mead breweries, vodka, gin, and whisky distillers, and coffee roasters. There, you can see the unique San Diegan craft culture as a whole. Please drop by there also when you visit this sake brewery.

クには、 酒蔵もあるのをご存知です


か?今回はサンディエゴで唯一の酒蔵 Setting Sun Sake を フ ィ ー チ ャ ー し ま す。この酒蔵は、2016 年 10 月に地産地 消をモットーにしたサンディエゴならで は の 地 酒 を 醸 す た め、Miramar に オ ー プンしました。原料となる米はカリフォ ルニア産のカルローズを 100%使用し、 自家製の麹と酵母で醸造しています。地 元で醸す1番の強みといえば、品質の変 わりやすい生酒をより身近に楽しんでも らえること。Setting Sun Sake の日本酒 は全て火入れをしていないフレッシュな 生酒です。醸し人の Josh さんは、長い 間クラフトビールの業界で仕事をしてい ましたが、 「サンディエゴにはビール醸 造所はたくさんあるから、誰も挑戦して いない日本酒を醸してみよう」と右も左 も分からないながらに、数少ない英語で 書かれた日本酒の本や動画を見ながら、 見よう見まね、手探りの状態で初めての 日本酒を醸したそうです。ビジネスパー トナーに酒蔵をつくろう!と説得するた めに醸した初めての日本酒は、とんでも なく恐ろしい味がしたよ!と当時を振り 返ったエピソードを教えてくれました。  オープンから約2年。今では生産量や 味も安定してきて、ボトルやドラフト 酒としてテイスティングルームだけで なく、地元のリカーショップやレスト ランでも取り扱いされるようになりま

し た。Miramar に あ る テ イ ス テ ィ ン グ ルームではシグネチャーとなる定番アイ テム「クリア」と「にごり」の他に季節 の果物や草花をインフューズした日本酒 もローテーションで楽しめます。私のお 気に入りは、ラベンダーとレモネードを インフューズした Violescent Waves と ビール文化と融合したサンディエゴらし い日本酒「ホッピー酒」です。ホッピー 酒は酸度が強めでサワービールのような 味わいで、暑い夏に最適なサッパリとし た日本酒でした。日本では、酒税法で 「米、米こうじ、水を原料として発酵さ せ、濾し、アルコール度が 22 度未満の もの」を日本酒の定義としているので、 インフューズをさせた日本酒はリキュー ル扱いになりますが、アメリカではその ような規定はないので Sake として販売 が可能。日本でも近年、苺にごりや、柚 酒など日本酒ベースのリキュールが若い 世代を中心に人気がありますが、それと 同じように、クラフト文化の根付いたサ ンディエガンにとって、このようなアプ ローチは日本酒の世界へのいい窓口にな るのではないでしょうか。Setting Sun の酒蔵近辺は、日本酒の他にワイン、ビー ル、サイダー、ミードの醸造所、ウォッ カ、ジン、ウィスキーの蒸留所やコー ヒーロースタリーなど個人経営の地元 に根付いた「造り手」が集まる Miralani Maker’s District という地区にあり、ユ ニークなサンディエゴのクラフト文化を まとめて見学することができるので、酒 蔵に遊びに行かれる際には、是非そちら もお見逃しなく。


Emperor’s Birthday Reception held by the Consulate General of Japan in Los Angeles

Text & Photo: Hiroshi Kawabata

An extravagant birthday celebration for Japan’s Emperor Akihito - last Emperor of the Heisei Era

在ロサンゼルス日本国総領事主催天皇誕生日祝賀レセプション ―平成最後の天皇誕生日を盛大に祝うー


he Consulate General of Japan in Los Angeles hosted a birthday reception on December 11 for Japan’s Emperor Akihito – the last Emperor of the Heisei Era – ahead of his eighty-fifth birthday on December 23. Government officials from each nation and representatives from corporate, educational, cultural, artistic, and Japanese-affiliated organizations totaling approximately 500 guests attended the lavish celebration. This is the third year Consul General Akira Chiba hosted the Japanese Emperor’s birthday reception in Los Angeles. A portrait of the Japanese Emperor Akihito adorned the venue, where Consul General Akira Chiba and his wife Yuko greeted each guest upon arrival. Consul General Chiba stood to welcome the guests to kick-off the reception as he expressed gratitude to the many community representatives who gathered to celebrate the birthday reception of Japan’s last Emperor of the Heisei Era. Reflecting on the past year, Consul Chiba also expressed his gratitude to the international support Japan received for the natural disasters, and expressed his desire for foreign nationals to visit Japan. Also, when Japan’s current Emperor Akihito abdicates his post in 2019, the new Emperor will resume his post on May 1, beginning a new Era for Japan. Consul General Chiba explained that in the end of June, Japan will be hosting the G20 Summit for the first time, and welcome leaders from African nations to host TICAD 7 in August, while various regions throughout Japan will be hosting the Rugby World Cup 2019. Further, the Consul General stated Japan’s Prime Minister Shinzo Abe met directly with President Trump numerous times, emphasizing

the strengthened relationship between Japan and the U.S. Also, the Consul General stated the local Major League Baseball team Los Angeles Dodgers advanced to the World Series for the second consecutive year this year, while Shohei Ohtani of the Anaheim Angels was named MVP by the American League, invigorating the Japanese American community. However, the most significant event of the past year was the full opening of all halls inside the Japan House in Hollywood. Consul General Chiba stated the Grand Opening of Japan House was attended by Los Angeles Mayor Eric Garcetti, U.S. Representative Mark Takano, and Japan’s Minister of Foreign Affairs Taro Konno, who flew in from Japan to attend the celebration with other Japanese Parliament Members, as the Consul General eagerly invited, “For those of you who haven’t yet visited the Japan House, please do so.” Also, the Consul General further stated sister cities Nagoya and Los Angeles celebrate their 60th year of friendship to further strengthen U.S. – Japan relations, as he expressed his eagerness to improve the Japanese conflict in North Korea and other foreign conflicts. During the reception, Japanese saxophone player Chika Inoue active in the Los Angeles area said after she performed the national anthems of


皇陛下が来年 4 月 30 日に退位され

の誕生日のレセプションが 12 月 23 日の 天皇陛下の誕生日に先立ち 12 月 11 日に 在ロサンゼルス日本国総領事主催により 総領事公邸で開催した。85 歳になられ る天皇陛下を各国の政府関係者、企業、 教育、文化、芸術、日系団体関係者ら約 500 人が盛大に祝った。  千葉明総領事にとって、当地で主催す る三度目の天皇誕生日祝賀レセプショ ン。天皇皇后両陛下の御真影が飾られた 会場で、裕子夫人とともに来賓ひとりひ とりと挨拶を交わした。  レセプション冒頭あいさつに立った千 葉明総領事は、平成最後となる天皇陛下 誕生日祝賀レセプションにコミュニティ を代表する多くの参加者が集ったことに 謝辞を述べた。今年一年を振り返り、日 本は自然災害に見舞われたが、国際社会 からの支援などもあり復興を遂げている

both Japan and the U.S., renowned film and theater actor George Takei led a toast to wish the Japanese Emperor Akihito great health and happiness. At the reception venue, the Consul General’s chef prepared sushi, appetizers, oden (fish cake), takoyaki, Wagyu beef from Kagoshima prefecture, and uni (sea urchin) with Japanese sake, shochu, and wine produced in Japan, etc., to guests who enjoyed a relaxing dining experience.

ことにも感謝を述べ、ぜひ日本を訪れて ほしいと話した。また、2019 年は今上 陛下が御退位され、5 月 1 日に皇太子殿 下がご即位され新たな時代を迎える。そ して、6 月末には日本で初めてのG20 サミット、8月にはアフリカ諸国の首脳 を招き TICAD 7 を議長国としてホスト し、ラグビーW杯が日本各地で開催され るなど重要な行事が予定されていると話 した。更に安倍首相とトランプ大統領が 度々直接会談をしており日米関係は強固 とアピールした。また、地元ドジャース の2年連続ワールドシリーズ進出、エン ゼルス大谷選手がア・リーグ新人王選出 に選ばれ日系社会が盛り上がったことな ど列挙したが、最大の出来事はハリウッ ドのジャパンハウスが全館開館したこと と強調した。ジャパンハウス開館式典に はエリック・ガルセッティロサンゼルス 市長、マーク・タカノ下院議員や日本か らは河野太郎外務大臣をはじめ国会議員 が出席したことなどに触れ「来館してい ない方は、ぜひ」と呼びかけた。また、 名古屋市とロサンゼルス市が姉妹都市提 携から60年の節目となり、日米が友好 を深める一方、北朝鮮情勢など国際情勢 改善に意欲を示した。  レセプションでは、ロサンゼルスで活 躍するサックス奏者の井上知香さんが日 米の国歌を演奏した後、舞台・映画俳優 のジョージ・タケイ氏が、天皇陛下のご 多幸とご健康を祈念し乾杯の音頭をとっ た。会場では、公邸料理人が用意した寿 司やオードブル、おでん、たこ焼き、鹿 児島牛、ウニなどの他、日本酒、焼酎、 日本産ワインなどが振舞われ、招待客は 和やかな雰囲気に包まれた。

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 243


Find Us

s @Los Angeleke Meetup a Japanese s KIKISAKE-SHI


Honorary Sake Sommelier & Saka-Sho

Honorary Sake Sommelier

SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB Info All Japan News, Inc. /

Sake Shochu Beer Institute of America (213) 680-0011,

Kosei Yamamoto

Takayuki Kanai

Katsuya Uechi

President Mutual Trading Company Inc

Chairman & President Wismettac Asian Foods, Inc

Chairman Katsuya Group

Honorary Sake Sommelier & Saka-Sho Honorary Sake Sommelier & Saka-Sho Honorary Sake Sommelier & Saka-Sho

Rick Smith & Hiroko Furukawa

Honorary Sake Sommelier & Saka-Sho


Yuji Matsumoto Master Sake Sommelier

Finalist of the 2nd World Sake Sommelier Competition. Graduated from Keio University Faculty of Law, Department of Political Science. Worked for Nomura Securities for 10 years. Former president of California Sushi Academy Former chief of planning dept. at Mutual Trading.

David Kudo Sake Sommelier Master Sake Sommelier

Born Kita-Akita City, Akita Prefecture. Emigrated from the nation of sake to the nation of whiskey, employed by a major Japanese-affiliated insurance company for twenty-five years before starting his own business. Many cases of sushi rice disposed following inspections by the Board of Health were reported among rapidly increasing sushi bars. The Japanese Restaurant Association was launched with a food distribution company in 1999 to face off with the Board of Health, and after four years of petitions, won the procedural change from temperature management to PH management. Took over as Executive Officer of the Japanese Food Trend News founded in 1991, when the predecessor was assigned back to Japan. Currently distributed as Japan Restaurant News (20,000 issues published electronically) in North America, Japan, and Southeast Asia.


February 2019

hile sake and food pairing is now the norm, why not try to change your perception in your approach? While comparisons are made regularly, wine is compared to other wine, sake is compared to other sake, and shochu is compared to other shochu. This is great to compare the subtle differences in flavor with other brands. Why not try a fun food pairing that invokes a mind-blowing reaction like “I never imagined this type of pairing!” from consumers. For example, serve fresh oysters with champagne and sparkling wine together to have consumers compare the delicious flavors of both pairing. • Try pairing red wine with cheese, along with Kimoto sake, aged sake. • For salads, try pinot grigio and flavored sake (yuzu, blueberry)

最ドペアリングだが、少し思考を変 近は当たり前になった酒とのフー

えておこなってはいかがであろうか? 通常行われているのが、ワインはワイン 同士、日本酒は日本酒同士、焼酎は焼酎 同士の並列な比較である。これは、確か にその微妙な味の比較をするのには良い が、消費者にとって違う「こんなこと予 想もしてなかった!」と喚起させる、楽 しいフードペアリングを探ってみてはい かがであろうか?  生カキにシャンペンとスパークリング を同時に提供し、それぞれの美味しさを 比較してもらう。 ・チーズの盛合わせに赤ワイン、キモト 造りの酒、古酒

Kats Miyazato

Owner “True Sake”

Owner of M&M Enterprise

Honorary Sake Sommelier


Perceptional changes


Beau Timken

Honorary Sake Sommelier & Saka-Sho

• For sashimi, try pairing with chardonnay, pinot grigio and Daiginjo • For main meat dishes, try pairing with Junmai sake or red wine • For fried dishes or creamy pasta, try pairing with Barley shochu and white wine. Try pairing with these combinations and have your customers sample them. While these three types of beverages (wine, sake, shochu) differ greatly in brewing method and ingredients, each are no doubt successful in boosting the dishes they’re paired with. By trying these combinations, why not try to find creative ways to bring a moving culinary experience that would invoke reactions like, “What is this!? This is delicious!” from customers?

・サラダにピノグリジオとフレーバー (柚子、ブルーベリー)酒 ・刺身にシャルドネ、ピノグリジオと大 吟醸 ・メインの肉料理に純米酒と赤ワイン ・揚げ物やクリーミーなパスタには、麦 焼酎と白ワイン などと組み合わせて顧客に楽しんでも らう。  醸造方法、原料など全く違うこれら三 種(ワイン、日本酒、焼酎)だが、どれ も食を盛り上げる酒であることは間違い ない。それらを組み合わせることにより、 消費者に「なにこれ、本当に美味しい!」 と感動を与えてみた企画をしても面白い のではないだろうか?

轉變觀念 最近,酒與食物的搭配變得理所當然;但何不稍微變更 一下想法? 平常進行的比較,均是葡萄酒與葡萄酒、清酒與清酒, 燒酒與燒酒的同酒類比較。當然,對同酒類那味道上細 微的分別進行比較固不失為良案;但引起消費者不同 的“我甚至沒有想過這一點!”,嘗試探索令人愉快的美 食配對何如? 同時為生牡蠣提供香檳和氣泡酒,以比較它們的味道。 ·什錦奶酪配以紅葡萄酒、生酛清酒、古酒 ·沙拉配以灰皮諾和加香(柚子,藍莓)酒 ·生魚片配以灰皮諾、夏多內和大吟釀 ·主要肉類菜餚配以純米酒和紅葡萄酒 ·油炸食品和奶油類意大利面,配以小麥燒酒和白葡 萄酒 等等的組合供顧客享用。 雖然是三種釀造方法和原料等完全不同的酒(葡萄酒, 清酒,燒酒);但能肯定全部都能襯托食物。通過組合 它們,計劃出付予消費者“這是什麼,非常美味!”的感 動的項目不是很有趣嗎?

발상의 전환 최근 술과 음식의 푸드 페어링이 당연시 여겨지는데, 생각을 조금 바꿔보면 어떨까요? 보통 와인은 와인끼리, 일본주는 일본주끼리, 소주는 소주끼 리 나란히 비교하곤 하는데 이렇게 하면 분명 미묘한 맛을 비 교하기는 좋습니다. 그러나 소비자 관점에서 "이런 건 생각하 지도 못했다!"며 분위기를 전환시킬 수 있는 색다르고 즐거운 푸드 페어링을 찾아 보면 어떨까요? 생굴에 샴페인과 스파클링을 함께 제공하고 각각의 맛을 비 교해 볼 수 있도록 합니다. ・모듬 치즈에 레드 와인, 기모토 방식의 술, 고주 ・샐러드에 피노 그리지오와 과일맛(유자, 블루베리) 술 ・생선회에 샤르도네, 피노 그리지오와 다이긴죠 ・메인 육류 요리에 쥰마이슈(純米酒)와 레드 와인 ・튀김이나 크림 파스타에는 보리 소주와 화이트 와인 위와 같이 음식과 술을 함께 준비해서 고객이 맛을 즐겨볼 수 있도록 합니다. 와인, 일본주, 소주는 양조 방법이나 원료 등은 전혀 다르지만 모두 음식 맛을 더해주는 술이라는 점은 똑같습니다. 이 술들 을 조합해서 소비자가 "와, 이거 정말 맛있다!’ 라며 감동할 수 있도록 기획해보는 것도 재미있지 않을까요?

オーガニック Using only the premium Californian rice, Hakutsuru Organic Junmai Sake is carefully brewed with sophisticated skills and techniques. Ingredients, brewing process, aging process, and bottling process are all USDA certified organic. Sharp and exhilarating. Dry and light-bodied. Enjoy this Sake in a wide range from cold to warm/hot, and sweet/dry changes can be enjoyed depending on the temperature.






Brewery Owner


Sake Sommelier and Others

All Japan News, Inc. /

Sake Shochu Beer Institute of America (213) 680-0011,

Akira Yuhara Sake Sommelier

Kosuke Kuji

Joe Mizuno

Nanbu Bijin Inc. Fifth Generation Brewery Owner

Head of the “Regional Sake Tasting Club”

Hirohisa Kikuchi Sake Sommelier

Miyako Hybrid Hotel

Keita Akaboshi

Yoshihiro Sako Sake Sommelier Yuzuki

Mei HO

Sake Sommelier

Sake Sommelier

Kuramoto US Inc.

True Sake

Miyuki Yoshida Sake Sommelier

Chizuko Niikawa-Helton Sake Sommelier Sake Samurai

Takao Matsukawa

Philip Harper

Latin Region Specialist Mutual Trading Company Inc.

Tamagawa Hand Made Japanese Sake Master Sake Brewer

Sake Sommelier

Kaz Tokuhara Sake Sommelier

Manager Wismettac Asian Foods

Toshiyuki Koizumi

Alice Hama

Liloa Papa

Certified Wine & Sake Sommelier

Certified Sake Professional Level LL

Rachel Macalisang

Koji Wong

Koji Aoto

Sake Sommelier

Owner “WASAN”

Savannah Distributing Co. Inc.

Sake Samurai

Kurtis Wells Mixologist

Owner Japon Bistro

Sake Sommelier

Stuart Morris Sake Sommelier

Hana Japanese Restaurant

Michael John Simkin MJS Sake Selection Owner

Masato Kato Wismettac Asian Foods

Young’s Market Company

Sake and Wine Sommelier

Sake Sommelier

Timothy Sullivan

Mai Segawa

Don Lee

Advanced Sake Sommelier

Sake Sommelier

Tako Grill

Yama Sushi, Owner Chef

Nanbu Bijin Introduced to Los Angeles: Part 2 南部美人ロサンゼルスへ その 2 he most important objective of this business trip to Los Angeles was the “30th Japanese Food & Restaurant Expo,” sponsored by Mutual Trading, held at the Pasadena Convention Hall. This business-to-business event, held for the thirtieth time this year, drew 133 food and sake producers, etc., and 2,667 customers in one day, the highest number of exhibitors and attendees in it’s thirty-year history. Nearly seventypercent of customers are restaurant industry professionals, with twentypercent of the consumers consisting of Japanese nationals. These statistics indicate how many non-Japanese professionals and consumers in the U.S. today are working in the Japanese cuisine and sake industry, or consuming Japanese

cuisine, indicative of the widespread consumption of Japanese cuisine among non-Japanese consumers. In other words, Japanese cuisine and sake are no longer consumed only by Japanese nationals homesick for their homeland. Sake producer Nankabijin never received such high customer turnout at their booth as they did this year. Their “Awasake Sparkling,” debut in the U.S. during this expo, was especially popular with many orders received. High-end sparkling Japanese sake is definitely accepted in the U.S. market. Also, my college classmate from the Tokyo University of Agriculture, currently residing in Los Angeles, attended this expo. It was truly encouraging to receive support in the U.S. from my

college classmate. In the evening, I visited “Chateau Hanare,” the Los Angeles branch restaurant of the Japanese restaurant “Washoku-en,” very popular in New York, along with sake “Houraisen” from Aichi prefecture, and “Tatenokawa” from Yamagata prefecture. I greatly enjoyed the wonderful cuisine prepared by chef Abe, visiting from New York. The restaurant scene changes quickly in Los Angeles leading California, the most populous state in the U.S., where the market for Japanese cuisine is anticipated to continue growing. We must continue producing even higher quality of sake to bring satisfaction to our U.S. consumers! P.S. Right after I left, restaurant “Chateau Hanare” welcomed Leonardo DiCaprio as a customer…! Very disappointed to know I missed his visit!

ものお客様を 1 日だけで迎えて開催され ました。30 回の開催で歴代最高の出展 者、入場者の数だったそうです。お客様 は 70%近くがレストラン関係者、お客 様全体に占める日本人の割合はたった の 20%しかいません。それだけ今のア メリカでは日本人以外が日本食、日本酒 をビジネスにしている、食べたい、飲み たいと思っている、ということで、ノン ジャパニーズ、アメリカ人への浸透がす さまじい勢いで進んでいるということで す。もう日本人が日本を懐かしみながら 食べるのが和食や日本酒なのではありま せん。

 南部美人も今年ほどブースにお客さん が来てくれた年は無いくらい忙しかった です。特にこのエキスポにあわせてアメ リカデビューを果たした「あわさけス パークリング」。これが大人気で、たく さんの注文をいただきました。アメリカ でも確実にスパークリングの日本酒の高 価格帯のものが受け入れられています。 さらに、このエキスポには私の東京農業 大学時代のロス在住の同級生も来てくれ ました。本当に農大のつながりがアメリ カでも心強く感じます。  夜は NY で大人気のレストラン「和食 えん」のロサンゼルス店の「シャトー・

ハナレ」に愛知の「蓬莱泉」さんと山 形の「楯の川」さんとお邪魔しました。 NY から駆けつけている阿部シェフの素 晴らしい料理とお酒を楽しみ増した。  どんどん様変わりするロサンゼルス。 アメリカ最大の州カリフォルニアをリー ドして、和食の市場がどんどん伸びてい く予感しかありません。私達も今まで以 上に高品質なお酒を醸し、アメリカ人の 皆さんに喜んでいたけるようにさらに頑 張っていきたいと思います! 追伸:シャトー・ハナレさん、私達が帰っ たすぐ後にディカプリオがご来店だった そうです・・・。残念、ニアミスでした!

T 136

by Kosuke Kuji

Kosuke Kuji Fifth Generation Brewery Owner Nanbu Bijin, Inc. Born May 11, 1972. Entered Tokyo University of Agriculture’s Department of Brewing and Fermentation. In 2005 became the youngest person ever to receive the Iwate Prefecture Young Distinguished Technician Award. In 2006 was selected to be a member of the board of trustees of his local alma mater, Fukuoka High School. Currently is featured in a number of media outlets including magazines, radio, and television. *Positions of Public Service: Chairperson, Cassiopeia Corporation Youth Conference; School Board Member, Fukuoka High School, Iwate Prefecture, Vice-Chairman, Technology Committee, Iwate Prefecture Brewers and Distillers’ Association

今的でもある共同貿易主催の「第 30 回のロサンゼルス出張の最大の目

回レストランエキスポ」がパサディナコ ンベンションホールで開催されました。 今回で 30 年を迎えたこのアメリカ最大 の B to B イベントは、何と 133 の食品、 お酒などのメーカーが集まり、2,667 名


February 2019

日本 百味 酒 百題 S

ake was first prohibited in Japan on March 22, 646 for the purpose of prohibiting alcohol consumption and fishery by field workers during the busy farm work season. However, this was not a law that was strictly complied with, but was more a loosely-followed law, where as

美味しい酒を150種類 日本全国から輸入 全米のネットワークを通じて 皆様に直送中 Yoshihide Murakami

Was sake once prohibited in Japan? 日本にも禁酒令はあったのか long as the sake was delivered beforehand, alcohol consumption was actually permitted in practice. Afterwards, sake prohibition was promulgated numerous times in 732, 737, 746, 749, 758, 790, 806, and in 900, seemingly to admonish drunkenness and overindulgence, with penalties stipulated just in case. For example, the sake prohibition was promulgated in 758 by Emperor Kouken to admonish drunkenness rampant among citizens to maintain social order, thus offenders were punished harshly. If the offender was a government official holding a management position for example, he would not be compensated for a year, while lower positions would be relieved of their duties. For civilians, the penalty was eighty lashings. On the other hand,

a loophole was in place for special guests and occasions, where as long as permission was requested and granted in advance by the official entity, no penalties were administered. An ancient poem cited during this prohibition was published in the ancient Japanese poetry collection, “Manyosyu.” The poem reads, “Although sake consumption is prohibited in gatherings at this time, consumption amongst a small group of relatives is allowed, so please have some.” The period from the Asuka Era into the Nara Era was when sake transitioned from a beverage offered to the deities by worshippers to a beverage enjoyed by commoners, where many occasions emerged not only for nobles and government officials, but also for civilians to gather and consume sake together. Therefore, it was likely

that inconveniences resulting from overindulgence could not be ignored. However, the majority still subsisted on agriculture at this time, where farm workers involved in planting and harvesting closely associated with sake in various agricultural rituals, thus it was questionable how effective the sake prohibition actually was at the time. In 1252, the five regents of the Kamakura Shogunate and Tokiyori Hojo promulgated the prohibition of sake production (illegal sake production) and sales among civilian breweries and consumers. When civilians during the Kamakura Era were ordered to keep only one sake barrel and turn in the rest for disposal, the number of sake barrels collected were said to be up to 37, 274 barrels.

り、社会秩序を維持することが目的だっ たため、違反者に対しては厳しく取り締 まっている。役人の場合、五位以上では 年俸 1 年の停止、それ以下の者は免職。 平民は 80 回の鞭打ちの罰だった。しか し、一方で抜け道も用意されており、祝 い事がある時や、大事な客がある時など は事前に役所に届け出て許可を得ていれ ば、お咎めなしだった。この禁酒令下で 詠まれた歌が、 『万葉集』にも出てくる。

とを介するものから楽しむためのものへ と変わっていく過渡期であり、貴族、官 人ばかりでなく庶民も寄り集まって酒を 飲む機会が増えていた。そのため、多飲 による不都合も見過ごせなくなっていた のかもしれない。しかし、この時代はま だまだ農耕社会であり、農民は田植えや 収穫などでのさまざまな農耕儀礼で酒と 縁が深かったため、これらの禁酒令がど れほどの効果を上げたのかは疑問ともさ れる。  建長 4 年(1252)、鎌倉幕府五代執権・ 北条時頼は鎌倉での民間の酒造り(密造 酒)や民間人による酒の売買を禁止する 「沽酒禁制」を発令している。 「沽酒」と は酒の売買のことで、治安維持を目的に 発令された禁令とされる。鎌倉中の民家 所有の酒壺壷のうち一壺を残して、残り 全部の酒壺の廃棄を命じたところ、その 数は 37,274 個にのぼったという。

Master Sake Sommelier Liquor Manager JFC International Inc.

わ大 化 2 年(646)3 月 甲 申(22 日 )

が 国 で 最 初 に 出 さ れ た 禁 酒 令 は、

BRANCHES & SALES OFFICES Head Office: LOS ANGELES (800) 633-1004, (323) 721-6100 LOS ANGELES Branch SAN DIEGO Sales Office, LAS VEGAS Sales Office PHOENIX Sales Office, DENVER Sales Office SAN FRANCISCO Branch SACRAMENTO Sales Office SEATTLE Branch PORTLAND Sales Office HOUSTON Branch DALLAS Sales Office BATON ROUGE Sales Office CHICAGO Branch TOLEDO Sales Office NEW YORK Branch BOSTON Sales Office BALTIMORE Branch ATLANTA Branch ORLAND Sales Office MIAMI Branch HAWAII Branch JFC GROUP OFFICE HAPI PRODUCTS, INC. JES INC. Interbranch Distribution Center (IDC)

Gezenshu 9 Junmai SMV: +4

の「薄葬の詔」 (はくそうのみことのり) である。その趣旨は、農作業の忙しい時 期に農民が魚や酒を摂ることを禁止す る、というものだが、何が何でも服従さ せるといった厳しい令ではなく、あらか じめ届け出ていれば飲酒が許されるとい う緩やかな禁令だったという。   禁 酒 令 は そ の 後、 天 平 4 年(732)、 同 9 年(737)、同 18 年(746)、天平勝 宝 元 年(749)、 天 平 宝 字 2 年(758)、 延 暦 9 年(790)、 大 同 元 年(806)、 昌泰 3 年(900)と何度も発布されてい る。いずれも酒乱や賛沢を戒めるための 禁令だったようで、一応罰則も設けられ ている。  たとえば、孝謙天皇の天平宝字 2 年に 出された禁酒令は、国民の酒乱が目に余

Juemon Muroka Genshu Junmai SMV: +3.5

Hakutsuru Sho-Une Junmai Daiginjo SMV: +2

夢も許し給へり今夜のみ飲まむ酒かも 散りこすなゆめ  「いまは集まって酒を飲むことが禁止 されているが、近親の者が少人数で飲む ことは許されているからどうぞ」という 説明に応えて詠まれた歌である。飛鳥か ら奈良にかけての時代は、酒が神々と人

Ozeki Platinum Limited Edition Junmai Daiginjo

この記事は株式会社柴田書店より提供されています。 This article was courtesy from Shibata Shoten Co Ltd.

SMV: -5

Denshin Yuki Junmai Ginjo

Makiri Junmai Ginjo

SMV: 0.5

Japanese Restaurant News

SMV: +8

Vol. 29

No. 243





SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB Master Sake Sommelier Info

All Japan News, Inc. /

Sake Shochu Beer Institute of America (213) 680-0011,

Ask me

Yuji Matsumoto Master Sake Sommelier

Master Sake Sommelier

Toshio Ueno

Ami Nakanishi

Yoshihide Murakami Master Sake Sommelier

Master Sake Sommelier

David Kudo

Ryuji Takahashi

Beverage Manager Kabuki Restaurant

Vice President Sake School of America

Vice President New York Mutual Trading, Inc.

Liquor Manager JFC International Inc.

President, All Japan News

Owner “Ji . sakeya” Shuto-Meijin

Master Sake Sommelier

Master Sake Sommelier

Expiration Dates for Japanese Sake 日本酒の賞味期限


Sake Shochu Beer Institute of America


Sake Shochu Beer Institute of America was founded with the purpose to promote further understanding of Japanese sake, shochu and beer in a shared where 500 million people enjoy wine in North America. We strive to increase Japanophiles by furthering understanding of the sake culture through online Japanese sake and shochu colleges and books related to Japanese sake, shochu and beer, etc. Especially sampling parties directly approaches consumers and no doubt contributes to expanding the market. Also, our final purpose is to facilitate communication with sake breweries, sake producers, and distribution companies, etc., to introduce Japanese sake, shochu and beer to American consumers in a way that’s easy-tounderstand.


February 2019

apanese sake labels, caps, and bottoms of the bottles do not list the expiration date. Changes to the sake aroma and flavor occur despite no expiration date, even if the sake temperature is managed correctly as ‘aged’ sake. Once the lid is opened, Japanese sake will change aroma and flavor between one to two days, even if the sake temperature is managed correctly. On the other hand, some sake brands will not change in aroma and flavor for several months. Although Japanese sake brands are not required to display the expiration date, the flavors can be maintained for a lot longer than people expect. Most sake once heated will not deteriorate in flavor, still fresh several months after the production date, likely due to the gas used during filtration. However, there is still a peak period in sake flavor, thus our recommendation is not to keep sake on the shelf long-term, but to finish it off as quickly as possible since the expiration sake depends on “whether or not sake is delicious to you when you drink it.” Also, I am often asked, “If sake is stored long-term, will it turn into aged sake?” My answer is the sake quality cannot be guaranteed. Sake breweries select sake suitable for aging, arrange to set the appropriate aging conditions such as temperature, humidity, etc., and determine if blending is necessary, investing both efforts and costs to prepare aged sake.



 賞味期限は無いが正しい保存管理をした場合で も香味に変化が生じる。これを熟成と呼んでいる。    開詮した日本酒は、温度・湿度などの正しい管 理下においても、1 - 2 日で変化するが、数ヶ月 変わらないものもある。日本酒には賞味期限の表 示義務が無い。思っているよりもずっと長く、そ の味を保ってくれる。特に、火入れをしているも のはほとんど味が崩れない。製造年月から数ヶ月 経っていてもフレッシュで、上槽時のガスが絡ん でいることもある。しかし、それでもピークはあ るので、もったいないからと長く放って置かずに 飲んでしまうことを推奨する。日本酒の賞味期限 は “ あなたが飲んで美味しいかどうか ” だから。  また、“ 長年保管しておけば古酒になりますか ” という質問を受けるが品質は保証出来ない。蔵元 では熟成に向く日本酒を選び、温度・湿度など適 切な熟成条件を整え、ブレンドの必要性を見極め て手間とコストをかけて古酒に仕上げているから である。

Ryuji Takahashi

by Ryuji Takahashi

Regional Sake Specialty Store “Ji Sakeya” Owner, Master Sake Sommelier, Shuto-Meijin, and the charismatic guru of ordinary sake. Plans and manages events and seminars with his own unique flare to introduce the appeal of Japanese sake and cuisine, unaffected by the latest trends, while managing a jizake retail store.

A journey through Shiga Prefecture 滋賀県の旅


he winter cold starts to set in right before sake production starts in Echi-gun, Shiga prefecture, when sake festival is held at the Echi brewery, producer of the sake “Tomitsuru.” I visited the sake brewery as an instructor as requested for the SSI Sake Navigator Seminar. Echi Brewery is located on the east side of Lake Biwa, on the west side of Hikone Castle. The Aichi banquet in Aichi prefecture is held over a two-day period, divided into 3 sessions: one daytime & evening session each on day 1, and one daytime session on day 2, resulting in 3 sessions total with each set consisting of the Sake Navigator Seminar, a brewery tour, and the banquet; held in 3 sets total. First, I gave a class on the most cost-effective way to purchase sake, which encompassed how to memorize basic premium sake names, and the recent descriptions often seen on labels, and discussed the success rate of purchasing sake via visual selection vs. selection based on price, etc., and how to raise one’s success rate for the respective purchases. Afterwards, the brewery owner led the brewery tour for visitors, who enthusiastically toured the long-established brewery, followed by the long-awaited banquet. Of course, the guests were allowed to drink as much sake from the Echi Brewery’s Tomitsuru series to their heart’s content, as they savored delicious, luxurious, catered cuisine, marking the end of the evening session and the conclusion of day 1. I had arranged lodging in Hikone, so I returned to the hotel ten to twenty minutes away by train. Although I

already ate during the banquet at the brewery, I still didn’t have enough to drink, so I headed to the izakaya “Hikoichi” in front of the Hikone Station. Various sake selections from Shiga prefecture are available at this izakaya, where the best-selling menu items are Oumi Wagyu Beef and Oumi Chicken dishes. I only wanted a light snack since I already had dinner, so I tried the Stewed Oumi Beef Tendon with beer and the local sake “Okubiwako,” and enjoyed a flavorful culinary adventure to conclude day 1. On the second day, the lecture, brewery tour, and banquet ended just past noon, similar to the first day. Since I already enjoyed the Stewed Oumi Beef Tendon the day before, I decided to try the Oumi Beef before I headed home. After returning to the Hikone Station, I headed to the Hikone Castle to work up an appetite at the sake brewery after lunch. The Hikone Castle is one of the few castles still standing in Japan that still retains its original form, definitely not an easy castle to tour for visitors. The original form of the castle still standing indicates the position is difficult for the enemy to attack, meaning the slopes are so steep, elderly tourists had to abort the journey. Calculating backwards to determine what time the next scheduled stop is for the bullet train, I climbed to the castle towers drenched in sweat and took in the scenic view of the Lake Biwa, then headed to the new tourist spot “Yume-Kyobashi Castle Road.” My destination was the restaurant “Sennaritei Nikushokuya,” serving the Oumi Beef Hot Pot course for only 3,500 Yen. I smacked my lips to Oumi Beef sushi and hot pot as I sipped the

本少 し 前 に 滋 賀 県 愛 知 郡 で「 富 鶴 」 格的な寒さが訪れ酒造りが始まる え

という銘柄を醸す愛知酒造で蔵祭りが行 われた。その中でSSIの日本酒ナビ ゲーター認定講習会を行いたいという依 頼で講師として酒蔵を訪れた。愛知酒 造は琵琶湖の東側に位置し有名な彦根 城の少し西側にある。2 日間行われる愛 知の宴と銘打った蔵祭りは全部で 3 部に 分かれており、1 日目昼の部・夜の部と 2 日目の昼の部で、日本酒ナビゲータ― 認定講習、蔵見学、宴会のセットを 3 回 行うわけである。まず、授業を行うのだ が、今回のテーマは上手にお得に日本酒 を買う方法として基本的な特定名称酒の 覚え方や最近よくラべルで見られる文言 を説明し、見た目だけで日本酒を買った 時の成功パーセンテ―ジや金額だけで 買った時の成功パーセンテージを知って もらい、買い物を失敗しない為にその数 字を上げる方法をレクチャーした。その 後、蔵元による酒蔵見学が始まり、皆真 剣に歴史ある酒蔵の中を見学していた。 見学が終わりお待ちかねの宴会。当然、 愛知酒造の富鶴シリーズは飲み放題で私 も、お燗番となり参加者に豪華な仕出し 料理と日本酒を楽しんでもらった。同 様に夜の部が終わり、1 日目が終了。彦 根に宿を取っていたので電車で数十分の ホテルに戻り、食事は酒蔵の宴会で済ま

sake “Kinkame,” and rushed to the train station after my meal to jump onto the train. My two-day trip was rushed since it was a business trip, yet I somehow managed to enjoy the local cuisine and sake to my heart’s content. Next time, I’d love to sink into a local hot springs, I thought to myself as I purchased a Tomitsuru sake cup to take with me on my way home.

せていたが飲み足りず、彦根駅前の居酒 屋「彦一」へ。滋賀県の酒が数種類有 り、近江牛と近江鶏が売りの店の様だっ たが、夕飯は済ませていたので軽くつま みたいと思っていたら近江牛の牛筋煮込 みがあるというので、それを肴にビール と地元酒「奥琵琶湖」を飲み、少しだけ 旅気分を味わい 1 日目が終了した。2 日 目も 1 日目と同様に講習・蔵見学・宴会 が昼過ぎに終わり、前日に近江牛の牛筋 煮込みを食べたせいか、帰る前に近江牛 の肉を食べて帰ろうと決めていた。彦根 駅に戻り、昼飯は酒蔵で食べていたので 腹を空かせる為、彦根城へ。彦根城は日 本国内でも数少ない、昔の状態を残して いる城で、観光客が見学しやすい城では ない。昔の状態が残っているという事 は、敵が攻めにくい状態なので、年配の 観光客は途中で断念するキツさである。 新幹線の時間を逆算しながら、汗だくで 天守閣まで登り琵琶湖を眺め、城の近く に新たに出来た観光スポットの「夢京橋 キャッスルロード」へ。向かった店は、 「せ んなり亭二九食や」。なんと近江牛の牛 鍋コースが 3,500 円で楽しめるのだ。近 江牛の肉寿司や牛鍋に舌鼓を打ちながら 「金亀 上撰」を飲み、食事が終わると 駆け足で駅に戻り電車に飛び乗った。2 日間、仕事で行っているだから急ぎ足の 旅ではあったが、たらふく食べて地元酒 を沢山飲めたのは良かった。次回は、ノ ンビリ温泉にでも入りに来たいと思いな がら新幹線で富鶴のカップ酒を飲み帰路 に着いたのだった。

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 243


社長    人が明かす

「オンリーワンの 店づくり、



“How to Create a One-Of-A-Kind Izakaya Restaurant, Creating an Organization Like None Other” as Revealed by 22 Founders 居酒屋という商売は社長のDNAが そのまま投影されると言っても異論はなかろう。 だからこそ経営者の生き方・考え方が 店づくりに大いに反映されると言っていい。 業界全体を眺めると決して明るいエポックがあるわけでは ないが、それでも個性を活かして “ここだけ”の店づくりに徹する経営者が 繁盛店を生み続けているのも事実なのである。 そうした経営哲学を持つ居酒屋経営者22人を直撃。 「オンリーワンの店づくり、 わが社ならではの組織づくり」の ノウハウについて聞き出した。 Very few would disagree with the notion that an izakaya is a business that directly reflects the founder’s core values. This is the reason why the founder’s way of life and views are greatly reflected when starting a restaurant. While examining the overall industry does not reveal an optimistic era from an economical perspective, it’s true that founders who capitalize on their individuality and devoted to opening a “one-of-a-kind” izakaya restaurant are nevertheless successful. In this article, we interviewed 22 izakaya owners who each possess their own unique management philosophy. We asked for all the particulars surrounding “How to Open a OneOf-A-Kind Restaurant, A Unique Organization.”


February 2019

(株) ららら

内田譲二氏 LaLaLa Inc.

Joji Uchida Profile 1962年佐賀県生まれ。現パナソニックのグループ企業 に入社し、公共施設や民間企業へ向けたシステム商品の 営業に携わる。青年会議所でらららの幹部と知り合い、 2006年、創業者の牛島太会長の誘いでらららに入社。 2010年、同社代表取締役に就任。

Born in Saga Prefecture in 1962. Joined the current Panasonic Corporate Group, where he was involved in sales of system products targeting public facilities and private enterprises. Uchida met with an executive of La La La Inc. at the Japan Junior Chamber, Inc., and was invited by the founder Ushijima to join the corporation. Uchida assumed his post as CEO in 2010.

僕の信念 My Convictions

地元の生産者と共存共栄する Co-exist with and generate mutual profit for local food producers


Focus efforts on proposing courses with careful attention to locality


Create a restaurant loved by local customers

佐賀という地域全体を盛り立てる Invigorate the entire community of Saga prefecture

地産池消をテーマに事業を展開 Expand the business based on the concept, “local production for local consumption”


niko, Inc., the parent company of LaLaLa Inc., is a corporation established by Founder Futoshi Ushijima (current Chairman) in 1989. “LaLaLa Inc.” is Uniko Inc.’s core subsidiary in the restaurant industry, supported by other subsidiaries in the real estate, construction, and publishing industries. Our group concept is to acquire real estate associated with the restaurant industry, construction, etc. Also, we advertise restaurants using our own resources and publish free papers as well. Chairman Ushijima founded our corporation after his return from Saga prefecture to Tokyo. Chairman Ushijima sold takoyaki on a used light truck renovated into a food truck. Studying product development, costs, purchases, etc., on his own, Ushijima sold 2.5 million ~ 3 million yen in sales out of one light truck. Afterwards, he became associated with the night leisure industry such as a snack bar, etc., before he officially entered the restaurant industry by opening “Bar LaLaLa” in 1998. We’re currently expanding in various industries with the most stable restaurant being “Yakitori Kadoya,” expanding since 2005. Most of our creative products are Saga beef skewers and foie gras skewers with average customer spending transitioning around 4,000 Yen. “Pork Specialty Restaurant Biton” capitalizes on the health benefits of pork dishes, targeting female customers. Our popular pork dishes are grilled, fried, simmered, steamed, and prepared in various ways. Also, “Teppanyaki Restaurant Murata” serves teppanyaki dishes prepared from Saga Beef and

local seafood, while “Nihachimaru” serves menu selections and beer at a flat economical rate of 280 Yen, and various other izakaya restaurants. In Saga prefecture, many people are sake drinkers, so all-you-can-drink privileges are a must for izakaya restaurants. The average customer spending at Nihachimaru is 2,300 Yen, while other brands generate average customer spending between 3,000 Yen ~ 4,000 Yen. As for business categories other than izakaya restaurants, we have “Passionate Yakiniku Restaurant Kakura,” doing well. Restaurants certified to serve the local brand Saga Beef is a business format suitable for opening restaurants in both the cities and suburbs. The recently renovated restaurant Omura in Nagasaki city is a huge hit for their All-you-can-eat Yakiniku and Sushi Course for 2,480 Yen. The sushi and yakiniku combination has a luxurious feel with the high cost of meat combined with the low cost of sushi easing the control of costs. On the other hand, our curry rice delivery service “Yellow Spice” is expanding as a franchise (FC). In the ramen industry, we have “Kadoya Ramen,” “Maruhachi Ramen,” and “Dragon Ramen” – a new brand of lowcost ramen for 390 Yen a bowl - are expanding as well. We’re planning to


ららの親会社である㈱ユニコ は、1989年に創業者である牛 島太(現会長)が設立した企業です。中 核となる外食業を展開する子会社が「ら らら」で、その他に不動産業や建築業、 出版業などの子会社があります。外食事 業に関連する不動産取得や建築などをす べて自社グループでやっていこうという 考え方です。また、飲食店の宣伝広告も 自社ソースで行なっており、フリーペー パーも発行しています。  この会社は、東京から佐賀に戻ってき た牛島会長が、中古の軽トラックを改造 してたこ焼きの移動販売を始めたのがス タートでした。牛島会長は商品づくりや 原価のこと、仕入れのことなどを独学で 身に付けて、軽トラック1台で月に250 万~300万円を売ったといいます。その 後、スナックなどのナイトレジャー産業 にも携わりましたが、1998年に「レス トランバーららら」を開業し、飲食業界 への本格な参入を果たしました。  現在はさまざまな業種を展開していま すが、最も安定しているのが2005年か ら展開している「焼鳥 かど屋」です。 佐賀牛の岩塩焼きやフォアグラ刺など、 創作系の商品が中心で、客単価は4,000 円で推移しています。

 女性客をターゲットに、豚肉のヘル シーさを訴求しているのが「豚肉専門店 美豚(びとん)」。焼く、揚げる、煮 る、蒸すなど、豚肉をさまざまな調理法 で提供し人気を博しています。また、佐 賀牛や地元の魚介類などを鉄板焼きで提 供する「鉄板焼 無量多」、低価格志向 に合わせてフードやビールを280円均一 にした「消費者熱狂酒場弐八丸」など、 さまざまな居酒屋業態を展開していま す。佐賀にはお酒好きの人が非常に多い ため、居酒屋では飲み放題の採用が不 可欠。弐八丸は客単価2,300円ですが、 それ以外のブランドは客単価3,000円 ~4,000円が多いですね。  居酒屋以外の業種では、「情熱焼肉  爀蔵(かくら)」が好調です。地元ブラ ンドの佐賀牛の認定店となっていて、街 中にも郊外にも出店できるフォーマット です。最近リニューアルした長崎の大村 店は、焼肉とすしの食べ放題2,480円コ ースが非常にヒットしています。焼肉と すしの組合せでごちそう感が出ますし、 原価の高い肉と原価の低いすしでコスト コントロールがしやすいのも利点です。  その他、カレーライスの宅配「イエ ロースパイス」ではフランチャイズ (FC)展開を進めています。ラーメン 業態では、「かどやラーメン」「丸八ラ ーメン」、そして1杯390円という低価 格の新ブランド「ドラゴンラーメン」な どを展開。今後はラーメン業態を伸ばし ていこうと計画しています。

expand in the ramen industry in the future. Our current concept is “local production for local consumption.”


To be continued.

ららら LaLaLa Inc. 佐賀県を拠点に事業を展開する、県下最大の地場外食企業。 (株) 居酒屋事業では、創作串料理の 「焼鳥 かど屋」 、豚料理専 3-14F Chuo-honcho, Saga, Saga prefecture 門店 「美豚」 、280円均一業態の 「消費者熱狂酒場 弐八丸」 な 佐賀県佐賀市中央本町3-1 ジックスビル4F どを展開。新事業として農業法人も設立した。 ☎0952-29-4354 No. of Restaurants/ 店舗数:30店 A restaurant corporation founded in and expanding Annual Corporate Turnover/ 企業年商: throughout Saga prefecture. Currently expanding 1.6 billion yen/ 16億円 (2013年3月期) creative fusion restaurant “Yakitori Kadoya,” pork specialty restaurant “Biton,” and restaurant “Ni Hachi Main brands/ 主なブランド:“Yakitori Kadoya,” “Yakiniku Kakura,” “Specialty Pork Restaurant Biton,” Maru” serving menu selections and beverages at a “LaLaLa Ramen,” “Curry Shop Yellow Spice,” etc.「焼 flat rate of 280 Yen, etc., in the izakaya restaurant 鳥 かど屋」 「情熱焼肉 爀蔵」 「豚料理専門店 美豚」 「ら industry. As a new business, we founded an らら らーめん」 「カレーショップ イエロースパイス」他 agricultural corporation as well.

*This article was referred from “Mook Izakaya 2014” published by Shibata Shoten Co Ltd. *この記事は株式会社柴田書店発行の“Mook居酒屋2014”からの転載です。

食の総合出版社  株式会社 柴田書店


hibata Publishing Co., Ltd. is a publishing company founded in 1950, comprehensively covering the culinary industry for “food and service professionals” through publications such as “Gekkan Shokudo” and “Gekkan Senmonryori.” SHIBATA PUBLISHING CO., LTD. Their theme of providing “content that meets the high demands IYASAKA Building 3-26-9 of professionals” hasn’t changed since their foundation. Especially now, Yushima, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo 113-8477, Japan at a time when the entire publishing industry is faced with the need for Tel. +81-3-5816-8269 structural changes, we must all the more uphold this theme to provide Fax.+81-3-5816-8262 fresh content. Capitalizing on our strength of knowledge and providing strong content through the publication of books and magazines, we must continue to challenge ourselves with new products and business e-mail: areas. By doing so, we will continue our mission at Shibata Publishing: to FACEBOOK contribute to the development of the culinary, restaurant and lodging Twitter @shibatashotenSD industries, and undertake business activities in various fields.

■月刊誌ご案内■ Introduction to our monthly publications (GEKKAN SHOKUDO) We logically analyze and produce articles on the rapidly growing restaurant industry and bustling restaurants!!! For readers like you, who want to learn the operations of a popular restaurant, management of restaurant figures and popular menu selections, we thoroughly report the management methods of growing restaurant businesses! 勢いのある外食産業や繁盛店を論理的に分析し、記事に します!! 繁盛店のオペレーションが知りたい、飲食店 の数値管理を学びたい、売れるメニューのレシピが知り たい、そんなあなたに成長する外食企業の経営手法を徹 底的に分析します

1950 年に創業した食の総合出版社で 柴田書店は す。出版を通じて “ 食とサービスのプロ ” に貢献

するべく、『月刊食堂』『月刊専門料理』などの専門雑 誌によって実現されています。  「プロの厳しい要求に応える内容を」という商品づ くりのテーマは、創業以来一貫して変わることはあり ません。出版ビジネスの構造転換が迫られる今だから こそ、われわれはそのテーマをより鮮明にしていかな ければならないと考えています。書籍、雑誌づくりを 通じて蓄積したノウハウとコンテンツの強みを生かし て、新しい商品や事業領域に挑戦していくこと。それ によって料理業界、外食・宿泊サービス業界のさらな る発展に貢献することを柴田書店の使命として、これ からも多彩な事業活動に取り組んでまいります。


(GEKKAN SENMONRYORI) Gekkan Senmonryori provides the latest techniques and information on Japanese, Italian, French and Chinese cuisines, desserts, and other cuisines from various countries. We also follow and report on recent trends and the latest information on food ingredients garnering attention. With “highly specialized” as our key word, we thoroughly explain the food preparation methods of top-rated professionals. 日本料理、イタリア料理、フランス料理、中国料理、デザ ート、その他各国料理の技術と情報を満載。近年、関心が 高まっている素材の動向、食材生産地の現状もフォローし ます。 「専門性の高さ」 を キーワードに一流の調理技術を 惜しみなく解説

café-sweets is a specialized magazine filled with useful information as reference for both coffee and pastry professionals and amateur readers alike. Following industry trends, we introduce how to decorate your restaurant appealingly, products and techniques. We report information on the popular coffees, breads and pastries, cakes, Japanese confections, chocolates, and interviews with owners about their experiences after the shops open.

カフェとスイーツ・パンのプロフェッショナル、アマチュアの 皆様にも参考になる専門誌です。業界のトレンドを追い、魅力 ある店づくり、商品や技術を紹介。コーヒー、パン、ケーキ、 和菓子、チョコレート情報、またお店開業後、活躍するオーナ ーの体験談、海外情報も満載です


「レストラン」 「料理」 「外食人」 「食ニュ ース」 「文化・知識」 に焦点を当てて、日々 変化を続ける食情報を毎日発信します。 最新オープンニュース、イベント情報の 他、人気店や話題店の料理レシピから外 食人のインタビューまで楽しい記事・コ ンテンツが満載です。

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 243



PROFESSIONALS Los Angeles Habuya Okinawan Dining 14215 Red Hill Ave. Tustin, CA 92780 (714) 832-3323 Mon.-Fri. 11:30am-2:00pm 5:30pm-11:00pm

Text & Photo: Keiko Fukuda

Habuya Okinawan Dining A restaurant that offers Okinawan cuisine using Japanese cooking skills effectively 和食の技効かせた沖縄料理の店

Sunday Closed

DATA 1. Average Price 客単価 $15/ L, $35/ D 2. Monthly Sales 月間売上平均 N/A 3. Food Cost フードコスト (%) N/A 4. Alcoholic Beverage Sales (%)



5. Alcoholic Beverage Sales by Type アルコール売上高 ( 種類別 ) N/A 6. Target Customer 客層 Business, Local 7. Featured Menu メニューの特徴 Okinawan cuisine Izakaya menu 8. Food Supplier 仕入れ先 Mutual Trading, JFC, Wismettac 9. Number of Staff 従業員数 15 people 10. Number of Seats 座席数 28 seats 11. Opening Date 開店年月 December, 2010 12. Varieties of Sake in Store



Dassai, Nanbu Bijin

February 2019

A parfait with natto “Oshin parfait” $4.50

Ryukyu Gozen (with dessert) $29.50


Okinawan restaurant, Habuya Okinawan Dining, was opened in December of 2010 in Tustin. Mere 3 months after the opening, it was featured as “The Best Hidden Japanese Restaurant” in the Los Angeles Times, which gave this restaurant a big boost. Mayumi Vargas from Okinawa, the owner of the restaurant, says, “Back then, people used to form a long line that went over the street corner.” Since then, this place has become a very popular restaurant known to many people, and no longer could be described as a hidden place. Some of their regular customers I interviewed described the charms of this place as “good ambience” and “authentic Okinawan dishes”, followed by a fantastic comment, “everything they serve here is delicious!” I thought Mayumi was the chef here because she is from Okinawa. But, actually, it is her husband, Hiroki Kimura, who is from

Wagyu with Uni $7.50/pc

Yamagata prefecture, is in charge of cooking. He came to the US after working several years in Japan as a chef, and worked at a Japanese restaurant in Los Angeles. He met Mayumi around the time he was thinking about going back to Japan. She told him about her dream of opening an Okinawan restaurant in the US. Coincidentally, Hiroki grew up listening to his grandmother who used to tell him how his great uncle (the grandmother’s brother) survived during the war thanks to the kindness of Okinawan farmers who hid him from the enemy to protect him so he could go home alive. Hiroki, then, developed a sense of someday returning the favor to the people in Okinawa. He thinks back and believes that his becoming a chef, and meeting Mayumi in the US were meant to happen to connect the two points to form this line of events. “However, 90% of the people I consulted with said, “Okinawan food is not a common everyday food, and succeeding in running an Okinawan restaurant here is unlikely, but I didn’t give up. I tried different things, which included researching for tastes that would be more easily accepted by people who are not Okinawan natives by using bonito or konbu-based dashi instead of tonkotsu, adding menu items other than Okinawan specialty dishes, etc.,” says Hiroki. The Ryukyu Gozen, which was served on my interview day was the Okinawa version of a gorgeous full course menu. It consisted of “Deep Fried Banana Fish”, “Okinawa Mozuku”, “Okinawa sea grapes and Sashimi”, “Stewed Pork Belly”, and “Okinawa soba”. It reminded me of the true local tastes I experienced in Naha. Especially, sea grapes, which should be

Uni with Okinawa Sea Grapes Bowl $28.00

very rare in the US, is one of hard-toget precious ingredients. I heard that they try their best to get as much madein-Okinawa ingredients as possible. “Our desire to contribute to Okinawa is very strong. Therefore, we naturally promote Okinawa-made products, not only for the food ingredients, but also for sake brands in our drink menu,” says Hiroki. Mayumi continues, “We are the number one seller of the draft version of Orion beer”. Horoki further adds, “The more Okinawan food ingredients people consume in the US, the more Okinawa gets benefited. However, it won’t be meaningful unless this keeps going. Such flow of movement will die down if we fail our restaurant business and end up closing the restaurant. I realize that it is so important to keep up with the success in this business. This is my way of returning the favor to Okinawa for my family”. The cooking part is relied on Hiroki’s hands, but servicing and marketing part is the responsibility of Mayumi. She came to the US when she was 21 years old. She was commuting to the Japanese restaurant she worked for taking an hour and a half by bus. While she worked at the restaurant, she was also busy creating Okinawan-themed arts. She came to the US originally to get married, but later got divorced. She kept hanging



Owner, Mayumi Vargas and Owner Chef, Hiroki Kimura

on her dream of running an Okinawan restaurant while working hard as a single mother, and that dream became real when she met Hiroki. Mayumi’s talent as an artist is now well reflected upon Habuya’s interior space. Colorful Hand-written menus decorate the walls, and items bought in Okinawa, and brought to the restaurant by regular customers fill the place. Mayumi says, “For customers who are anime fans often describe that his place makes them feel as if they have wondered into the world of “Spirited Away”. This restaurant, which has been increasing the number of customers with its comfortable ambience and delicious food, has welcomed its 8th anniversary in December of 2018.

TP-1 100-200 servings/hr

010 年 12 月 に タ ス テ ィ ン に オ ー プ ン し た 沖 縄 料 理 の 店、Habuya Okinawan Dining。 そ の 3 カ 月 後 に ロ サ ン ゼ ル ス タ イ ム ズ に「Best Hidden Japanese Restaurant」として紹介され たことが店の大きな転機となった。沖縄 出身のオーナー、真弓バーガスさんが言 うには「角を曲がった先まで入店を待つ 長蛇の列ができた」そうだ。それからは 「Hidden」という修飾語が似つかわしく ない、誰もが知る繁盛店へと成長した。 何がこの店の魅力かを周囲の常連客に聞 くと「雰囲気がいい」 「本格的な沖縄料 理が食べられる」に続いて、 「何を食べ ても美味しい」という絶賛のコメントが 返ってきた。料理を手がけているのはウ チナーンチュの真弓さんかと思いきや、 実は山形県出身の夫、木村裕樹さん。裕 樹さんは料理人として日本で数年の経験 を積んだ後に渡米し、ロサンゼルス近郊 の日本料理店に勤めた。帰国を控えた頃、 真弓さんと知り合い、彼女から「アメリ カで沖縄料理店を開けたい」という夢を 聞く。裕樹さんは幼い頃から祖母に、大 伯父(祖母の兄)が戦時中、沖縄の農家 にかくまわれて無事に復員することがで きたことを聞かされて育った。 「いつか 沖縄の人に恩返しをしたい」と思うよう になり、料理人になった自分がアメリカ の地で真弓さんと出会ったことで「点と 点が繋がって線になった」と振り返る。  「しかし、相談した人のうちの 90%か

らは『沖縄料理なんて毎日食べるもので はないから、店を開けても成功しない』 と言われました。それでも諦めず、豚骨 よりもかつおや昆布だしを使うなど沖縄 の人以外にも食べやすい味を研究した り、また沖縄料理以外のメニューも揃え たりすることで工夫しました」と裕樹 さん。  取材当日にいただいた琉球御膳は、グ ルクンの唐揚げ、もずくの酢の物、海ぶ どうと刺身、ラフテー、さらに沖縄ソバ とまるで満漢全席の沖縄バージョンのよ うな豪華さ。那覇で食べた本場の味の記 憶がよみがえる。特に海ぶどうはアメリ カではほとんど口にできない貴重な食材 のはず。これらの食材、同店では可能な 限り、沖縄産を仕入れているそうだ。  「沖縄に貢献したいという思いが強い ので、料理もそうですが、お酒も当然沖 縄のものをプッシュしています」と裕樹 さんが話すと、 「オリオンビールの生ビー ルの売り上げはうちが全米ナンバーワン です」と真弓さんが続ける。さらに「沖 縄産食材をアメリカで食べてもらえばも らうほど、沖縄にお金が行きます。しか し、これは続けなければ意味がありませ ん。店を潰してしまえば、その流れは途 絶えてしまう。だから、店を継続させる ことが非常に大切だと認識しています。 このことは私の家族が沖縄から受けた恩 返しです」と裕樹さん。  料理は裕樹さんの腕にかかっている

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が、接客や広報、マーケティングは真弓 さんが担う。21 歳で渡米した真弓さん は、最初の勤務先である日本食レストラ ンまでバスで片道1時間半をかけて通っ た。レストランで働くかたわら、沖縄を テーマにしたアート作品製作にも精を出 した。渡米の理由は結婚だったが、その 後、離婚。シングルマザーとして奮闘し ながら沖縄料理店経営の夢を抱き続け、 裕樹さんとの出会いで夢は花開いた。そ して、真弓さんのアーティストとしての 才能が、今は Habuya の内装にも反映さ れている。壁を賑やかな手書きメニュー が飾り、常連が沖縄で買って持ち込んだ というアイテムが所狭しと配置されてい る。 「アニメファンのお客さんは『千と 千尋の神隠し』の世界に迷い込んだよう、 と表現しますね」と真弓さん。その居心 地の良さと美味なる料理で顧客を増やし 続けた同店は、2018 年 12 月、開店8周 年を迎えた。


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油槽が浅く お手入れ簡単! 廃油が少ない! Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 243



PROFESSIONALS San Francisco Oma San Francisco Station 1737 Post Street., Suite 337 San Francisco, CA 94115 Email:

Text: Mayumi Schroeder, Photos: Elli Sekine

Oma San Francisco Station “Highest-quality sushi you can taste at a metropolitan train station you happened to stop by” is the concept. コンセプトは “ 都会で立ち寄った駅で食す最高級寿司 ”

Mon.-Sun. 12:00pm–10:00pm (Last Seating: 8:30pm) DATA

1. Average Price 客単価 $85 (with a drink)

2. Monthly Sales 月間売上平均 N/A 3. Food Cost フードコスト (%) N/A 4. Alcoholic Beverage Sales (%)



5. Alcoholic Beverage Sales by Type アルコール売上高 ( 種類別 ) Sake, Beer 6. Target Customer 客層 A wide variety of customers include tourists and families. 7. Featured Menu メニューの特徴 Seasonal Nigiri 8. Food Supplier 仕入れ先 NA Sales, etc. 9. Number of Staff 従業員数 Under 10 staff members. 10. Number of Seats 座席数 8 seats 11. Opening Date 開店年月 July 2018 12. Varieties of Sake in Store




February 2019


rowth of popularity of sushi in San Francisco’s Bay area in recent years is quite amazing. Many sushi restaurants including sushi bars and revolving sushi places have opened. Among them, one place is particularly attracting people’s attention as a restaurant where true authentic sushi is served. It is “Oma San Francisco Station”, which opened in Japan Town’s West Mall in July of 2018. This place has been featured in various media such as ABC News, Hoodline, and Eater SF as a retaurant where reasonably-priced high-quality sushi omakase courses are offered, and good reviews have been given. Even the Michelin Guide said, “It is wonderful that you can eat this good-quality sushi at this kind of price!”

Wilson Chan, the owner/chef, is Chinese American from Northridge area of Los Angeles County. He has a 16-year career as a chef, and has worked as a skillful chef at many highquality restaurants such as“Wasabi + Ginger, Kentaro” in Los Angeles area, ”Yuzuki”, “Tsubasa”, ”Kappo Gomi”, and ”Ozaoza” in San Francisco area. For this opportunity of opening his own restaurant, Mr. Chan, who has also worked as an art designer, did everything from designing the modern interior, 3-dimentional art, to the website by himself. The name of this restaurant, “Oma San Francisco Station”, with a wooden counter for only 8 seats, was named after an image in which, although you are in a metropolitan area, you go to a train station to taste omakasestyle sushi. The menu consists of only 3 omakase courses, “Nozomi” ($85), “Hikari” ($55)”, and “Kodama ($30)”. The courses are uniquely named after Japanese bullet trains (Shinkansen). The “Nozomi” consists of 12 nigiri sushi pieces, and 1 hand-roll. The “Hikari” consists of 6 nigiri sushi pieces, and 1 hand-roll. “Kodama” consists of 5 nigiri sushi pieces, and 1

hand-roll. Each course ends with akadashi miso soup. If you felt not quite satisfied with the quantity, you can also add individual nigari sushi pieces of your choice. As for the ingredients, Mr. Chan himself carefully selects only fresh and seasonal produce. On top of air ordering from Toyosu in advance, he also orders certain seasonal ingredients from even Hokkaido and Kyushu. As for fish, this place has rare kinds such as red bream, rockfish, red snapper, amberjack, and scallops from Iwate prefecture, which are not well known and usually unavailable as popular sushi ingredients. Each ingredient is prepared using uniquely effective methods such as konbu-jime, and aburi (charring), to enhance each ingredient’s characteristics to the fullest. The konbu for konbu-jime method is Rishiri dried kelp from Hokkaido. Mackerels from Hokkaido are marinated in dashi for 2 hours, and red breams are marinated for 6 hours before they are prepared. The ikura (salmon roes) dish I tasted was prepared after marinated in konbu dashi and mirin, and every bite was fresh, and soothing while I could still taste ikura’s natural deep taste and aroma,




張るものがあり、寿司バーや回転寿司な ど数多くの店舗が広範囲で展開されてい る。その中で、本格的な寿司が食べられ るレストランとして注目されているの がサンフランシスコ日本街のウエスト・ モール内に 2018 年 7 月にオープンした 「Oma San Francisco Station」だ。リー ズナブルに高品質の寿司のおまかせコー スを食する事が出来ると ABC7 ニュース や Hoodline、Eater SF な ど の 情 報 誌 に 取り上げられレビューでも高い評価を獲 得している他、ミシュランガイドでも “ この様な高品質の寿司を、この価格で 食べられるのは素晴らしい事だ ” と記載 されている。  オーナー兼シェフのウィルソン・チャ ン氏はロサンゼルス市ノースリッジ地区 出身のチャイニーズ・アメリカン。シェ フとして 16 年の経験を持ち、ロサンゼ ルス市の「Wasabi + Ginger, Kentaro」、 サ ン フ ラ ン シ ス コ 市 の「Yuzuki」,

「Tsubasa」「 , Kappo Gomi」や「Ozaoza」 など数多くのクオリティーの高い店で シェフとして活躍してきた。今回、自分 の店を持つにあたりシェフだけでなく アートデザイナーとしての経歴も持つ チャン氏は、店内の近代的なデザインや 立体アートからレストランのウェブサイ トのデザインまで全て自分で作り上げた という。  8 席の木製カウンターのみの当店の名 前である “Oma San Francisco Station” は、“ 都会にありながら、駅に立ち寄っ て食べるおまかせ寿司 ” というイメージ で付けられたという。メニューはおまか せメニューのみの全 3 種類。それぞれに “ のぞみ(85 ドル)”、“ ひかり(55 ドル)”、 “ こだま(30 ドル)” と新幹線の名前を 付けるユニークさだ。“ のぞみ ” では握 り 12 貫と手巻き 1 本、“ ひかり ” では握 り 8 貫と手巻き 1 本、“ こだま ” では握り 5 貫と手巻き 1 本で、全メニューとも最 後に締めとして赤ダシの味噌汁が提供さ れる。食後に物足りなさを感じる人には

最後に 1 品ずつ握り寿司を追加する事も できるという。  食材は旬で新鮮な物のみをチャン氏が 自ら選んで厳選、プレオーダーをして豊 洲から空輸される他、九州や北海道から も旬の食材を空輸する徹底ぶり。寿司ネ タにはキンメダイ、のどくろ、真鯛、か んぱち、岩手県産の帆立など一般の寿司 ネタにはない物も取り揃えており、調理 方法も昆布締めや炙りなどで個々の食材 の旨さを最大限に生かすように調理され ている。昆布締めに使用されているのは 利尻昆布で、北海道産の鯖はダシに 2 時 間浸してから、キンメダイは 6 時間浸し てから調理されるという。今回、賞味さ せて頂いたイクラは昆布ダシと味醂で漬 けられてから調理されており、噛む度に 新鮮で爽やかな口当たりながらも、イク ラそのものの深い味わいが口の中に広 がっていく。又、炙りサーモンは若干の 焦げがもたらす香ばしさと、柔らかな食 感が口の中で溶けるようで病みつきにな りそうだ。シンプルだが最高なネタを提

which slowly spread in my mouth. The charred salmon was very aromatic due to slight charring burn, and its soft texture that melted in my mouth made me feel like getting addicted to it. Simple, yet only highest-quality fish is used, therefore, “no soy sauce is needed”, is true as written in the menu. The best

possible sushi has been created here by ultimately bringing out each ingredient‘s umami. Presently, only sushi kaiseki can be offered because there is no kitchen space, however, he indicated his desire of opening a restaurant with a kitchen in the future. Right now, the seating is

limited to 8, and the same-day reservation is not accepted, so making an online reservation in advance is recommended. Otherwise waiting can be very long especially for dinner time due to its popularity.

供しており、メニューに “ 醤油は必要な し ” と書かれているように、個々の素材 の旨味を最大限に引き出した最高級の寿 司を作り上げている。  現在はキッチンが無い為に寿司懐石の みの提供となっているが、将来はキッチ ン付きの寿司屋を開店したいとチェン氏 は意欲を示している。席数が 8 席と限ら れおり同日予約を受け付けていない人気 店の為、ディナー時には行列が出来る事 も多いので事前にオンラインでの予約が 推奨される。

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 243



Text&Photo : Aya Ota (


Sakagura East Village

New York

A place you can enjoy various kinds of Japanese local sake and cuisine to the fullest

Sakagura East Village 231 E 9th Street New York, NY 10003 (212) 979-9678

日本各地の地酒と郷土料理を心ゆくまで楽しめる 『酒蔵イーストビレッジ』

Tue.-Thu. 6:00pm-10:45pm Fri.& Sat. 6:00pm-11:45pm DATA

1. Average Price 客単価

$70 to $80 (with a drink, tax and tip not included)

2. Monthly Sales 月間売上平均 2 rotations on weekends 3. Food Cost フードコスト (%) Approximately 20-30% 4. Alcoholic Beverage Sales (%)


Approximately 30-35%

5. Alcoholic Beverage Sales by Type アルコール売上高 ( 種類別 ) Japanese sake is sold significantly more than others followed by beer, shochu, and cocktails

Pintxo with Truffled Chicken Pâté and Pepitas on Rice Bread

6. Target Customer 客層 A wide variety of clientele including business people, artists and designers

Carpaccio Medley with Ponzu Jelly and Salted Seaweed


unique exterior; walls without windows, which make it impossible to peek in, and the thick and heavy door, both of which remind you of a kura (an old-fashioned Japanese building for storage); catches your eyes. This is “Sakagura East Village” which opened its door in September of 2018. As soon as you step inside, its gracious interior space decorated with

7. Featured Menu メニューの特徴 True authentic Japanese cuisine using Japanese food ingredients of all four seasons Especially particular about rice and miso 8. Food Supplier 仕入れ先 They do business with almost all Japanese trading companies 9. Number of Staff 従業員数 6 kitchen staff and 5 servers run the place 10. Number of Seats 座席数 49 seats (including counter seats) 11. Opening Date 開店年月 Their soft opening was in August of 2018, and the grand opening was in September

12. Varieties of Sake in Store


Nearly 100 brands of sake lineup from 80 breweries Many sake connoisseur customers prefer unique brand such as Namazake, Kimoto, and Yamahai.

plentiful of woods and stones, and a small Japanese garden-like space open up in front of you, and you feel as if you suddenly stepped into another world. “I want to pursue the basics of Japanese food culture. I want people to fully enjoy various kinds of Japanese local sake with authentic Japanese cuisine,” says Bon Yagi, CEO of T.I.C. Group. This Group’s motto is “Enjoy Japan without Airfare (You can enjoy authentic Japanese tastes and ambiences without actually going there)”. From true traditional Japanese foods such as sushi and soba to more current foods like curry and ramen, street foods such as takoyaki and rice burgers, Japanese sake bars and tea salons, a total of as many as 13 different kinds of business models are forming their 20 plus Japanese restaurants under the operation of this Group. It would not be an

Bon Yagi, CEO, T.I.C. Group (Right) Ryoma Miki, General Manager (Left)


February 2019

Snow Crab Steamed Egg Custard

Hot Stone Grilled Premium A5 Wagyu Beef

exaggeration to say that he is the person who has been making the history of New York’s Japanese cuisine scene for the last 40 plus years. He was awarded for his contribution. He was selected as one of the 5 winners in the world for the Minister's Award for Overseas Promotion of Japanese Food in 2018. This place is positioned as a sister restaurant of “Sakagura” in Midtown, which has been running as a popular restaurant where the high number of customers has been sustained for more than 20 years, however, this place deserves more than positioned as the second location of a popular restaurant because it is filled with its own charms. The person, who creates gracious dishes with plentiful seasonal ingredients imported from all over Japan, is Masaru Kajihara, Executive Chef. He has been displaying his skills at notable kaiseki restaurants in both Japan and the US, such as “Suzuki” in Tsukiji, Tokyo, and “Kyoya”, a New York Times 3-starred restaurant. The “Sakagura Omakase Course” is offered only at the East Village location. The first item of the course, the “Pintxo with Truffled Chicken Pâté and Pepitas on Rice Bread”, specially baked bread with cooked rice mixed in the dough, surprises you. The “Carpaccio Medley” is accentuated with ponzu gelee and salted konbu. The “Wagyu Ishiyaki”, served with sizzling sound and aroma, pleases your five senses fully. To show their particularity about rice and


窓い壁に、重厚感ある扉…まさに蔵 がなく中を伺い知ることのできな

を思わせる外観に目を奪われる。ここは 2018 年 9 月に開店した『酒蔵イースト ビレッジ』。一歩足を踏み入れると、木 や石をふんだんに使った端正な内装や日 本庭園を思わせる箱庭が広がり、一瞬に して別世界になる。  「日本食文化の原点を追求したい。日 本各地の地酒を、本格的な和食ととも に堪能してほしい」と語るのは T.I.C. グ ループ最高経営責任者、八木秀峰氏。同 グループのモットーは「日本に行かなく ても本格的な日本の味や雰囲気を楽しめ る(Enjoy Japan Without Airfare)」と いうこと。寿司や蕎麦など本格派和食か ら、カレーやラーメンなどの現代的和 食、たこ焼きやライスバーガーなどのス トリートフード、日本酒バーや日本茶サ ロンなど、実に 13 種類もの業態で約 20 店舗もの日本食店を経営している。40 年以上の長きにわたり、ニューヨークの 日本食の歴史を作ってきた人物と言って も過言ではない。その功績が認められ、 2018 年には、農林水産省の日本食海外 普及功労者表彰受賞者として世界 5 人の うちの 1 人に選出された。  同店は、ミッドタウン地区で 20 年以 上も客足が衰えることのない人気店『酒 蔵』の姉妹店という位置づけではあるが、 単なる 2 号店にとどまらない魅力にあふ れている。

 日本各地から取り寄せた四季折々の食 材をふんだんに取り入れ、端正な味を作 り出すのは料理長の梶原勝氏。東京・築 地の『すず木』やニューヨーク・タイム ズ三つ星『饗屋』など日米の会席料理店 で腕を奮ってきたシェフだ。 「酒蔵おま かせコース」はイーストビレッジ店のみ の展開。はじめに登場する「お米のパ ンの鶏トリュフピンチョ(Pintxo with Truffled Chicken Pâté and Pepitas on Rice Bread)」 は 炊 い た ご は ん を 練 り 込 ん だ 特 製 の パ ン に 驚 か さ れ る。 「五 種 の 旨 味 カ ル パ ッ チ ョ(Carpaccio Medley)」は、ポン酢ジュレや塩昆布が

miso, the Japanese cuisine basics, a kamameshi, cooked super high-quality rice from Uonuma, Niigata, with a lot of seafood such as scallops, Snow crab meat, etc., is served accompanied by miso soup using uki-koji miso and nukazuke style pickled vegetables to finish the course. The Japanese sake selection of nearly 100 different brands from about 80 breweries have been carefully selected by Ryoma Miki, General Manger/sake sommelier. There is even a premium kind of sake you cannot find anywhere else. Recommended pairing with the omakase course is well accepted, and it impresses you even more when the sake that matches each dish perfectly is served in each appropriate container that matches the sake. Many sake connoisseurs visits “Sakagura” which carries the most selection of sake in New York, and they like to order unique brands such as Nama-zake, Kimoto, and Yamahai. The casks of sake piled up high by the wall at the deep end of the restaurant are donated by the breweries from all over Japan. This display shows their passion and aspiration to convey enthusiasms of brewery owners and masters of sake brewers of each brand, and to represent characteristics of each sake to as many people as possible.

A unique event called “Taste of Japan” which started to realize their hope to introduce Japanese local cooking specialties, is particularly noteworthy. Every other month, one of Japan’s regions is picked, and a special menu is created and offered featuring the picked region’s local specialty food and their local sake. For the first time of this regular event, Niigata prefecture was picked, and the highest-quality Uonuma-made rice and miso made by Hakkaisan brewery was used. They are planning to continue this event featuring prefectures such as Nagano, Hyogo, Miyagi, etc. in this respective order. One big difference of this place from the Midtown location is its interior space. You can sit alone at the counter, you can enjoy and relax in a semi-private space with a friend, or you can even bring a group of 20 to use a private space for a large group. This place can accommodate almost any situation. There are plenty of spaces among the tables, and they are creating an ambience which draw a line between them and other casual and noisy East Village restaurant. “Sakagura East Village” which is like a concentration of the wonderfulness of Japanese food culture, is definitely the kind of restaurant you want to visit again and again.

Assortment of Appetizers (Eel Sushi, Homemade Tofu with Caviar, Aigamo Duck, Fried Shrimp Stick, Anchovy Potato Salad)

Highest Grade Koshihikari Rice imported from Uonuma, Cooked with Scallops, Snow Crab, and Salmon Roe in Kama Iron Pot served with Miso Soup and Japanese Pickles

Sweetened Chilled Red Beans with Chestnut and Mochi

アクセント。ジュージューと音と香りを 立てて運ばれてくる「和牛石焼き」は五 感をフルに楽しませてくれる。日本食の 原点であるコメと味噌にこだわり、〆の 一品は、新潟県魚沼産の最高級米にホタ テやズワイガニなど海産物をふんだんに 炊き込んだ釜飯に、浮き麹味噌を使った 味噌汁、ぬか漬けが登場する。  約 80 の蔵から約 100 種類にも及ぶ日 本酒ラインナップは、ジェネラルマネー ジャー兼酒ソムリエの三木龍馬氏が厳選 したもので、同店にしかないプレミアム 酒もある。おまかせコースとのペアリン グも好評で、それぞれの料理と酒に合っ

た酒器で飲めるのが感動を増す。ニュー ヨークで最も多くの日本酒を取りそろえ る『酒蔵』には、日本酒通の客が多く、 生酒、生酛、山廃など、個性ある酒が好 まれるという。店内奥の壁を埋め尽くす 一斗樽は、全国の蔵から提供されたもの だ。 「蔵元や杜氏の酒に対する熱い想い、 ひとつひとつの酒に込められた個性を、 できるだけ多くの人に伝えたい」という 同店の心意気が現れている。  特に注目したいのは、日本各地の郷土 料理を伝えたいという意図で開始した 「Taste of Japan」という独自企画。約 2 カ月おきに、ひとつの都道府県に焦点を 当て、郷土料理と地酒を組み合わせて楽 しめるメニューを提供する。初回の新潟 県特集でも、魚沼産の最高級米や八海山 が醸造する味噌を取り入れた。この後、 長野、兵庫、宮城…と続く予定だという。  ミッドタウン店との違いのひとつは内 装だ。一人でカウンターに座ってもよい し、個室風に仕切った空間で二人でくつ ろぐのもいいし、最大 20 人で使える個 室もあり、どんなシチュエーションにも 対応できる。客席間隔もゆったりしてお り、カジュアルで賑やかな店が多いイー ストビレッジ地区の中では、一線を画す 雰囲気を醸し出している。  日本食文化のすばらしさが凝縮された ような『酒蔵イーストビレッジ』、何度 も通いたくなる店だ。

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 243


Validation to prepare delicious hot sake 旨いお燗を作るための検証

Validation 5 How does hot sake taste when diluted with water? 検証 5  割り水燗の味わいは ?


ater added to Japanese sake prepared as hot sake is called “Diluted Hot Sake.” According to written records, the beverage manager(*) at restaurants traditionally diluted hot sake with water to differentiate flavors during a time when Japanese sake selections were few, or to lower the alcohol content of sake served to customers who already had too much to drink. To this day, this practice is still alive among brew masters and brewery workers to lower the alcohol content of their evening sake, becoming an increasingly common practice among restaurants. In this issue, we verified what type of sake is most suitable as diluted hot sake, and how much water is most suitable to add. We sampled refreshing (non-premium) sake and pure sake, poured into vessels in hot water (176 °F) and heated to 113°F. Also, we added water at the rate of 10 percent and 20 percent (with 15 percent alcohol content for both sake samples, meaning



食店のお燗番※が、日本酒の種類が少な い中、味の変化をつけるために行ってい たとか、酒量の過ぎたお客には割って薄 めて出していたなどと文献に残っていま す。現在でも、杜氏や蔵人が日々の晩酌 で行う場合もあるようで、通の飲み方と して、飲食店でも採用する所も増えてい ます。今回は、割り水燗に向く日本酒の タイプはどれか?どのくらいの加水率が 適切なのか?を見極めるための検証を行

いました。サンプルには爽酒(普通酒)と 醇酒を使用。湯煎(80℃)で 45℃に仕上 げました。また加水率は 10% と 20% を試 しました(サンプルの日本酒のアルコール 度数はどちらも 15%。よって 10% 加水で は Alc13.5%、20% 加水は Alc12%)。 ※


ひと昔前は、女将を引退したおばあさんがその役 割を担っていたとされています。現在、日本酒人 気と共に、お燗専門の従業員がいる飲食店も見ら れるようになってきました。

・10%割水 長田 薄くなったという感はない。生酛特 有の酸味や香りが減少することなく、ほん

10 percent water added to sake with an alcohol content of 13.5 percent, and 20 percent water added to sake with an alcoholic content of 12 percent). *The beverage server specializes in serving beverages / warming hot sake. Traditionally, an elderly lady retired as a hostess would perform this task. Currently, as Japanese sake is increasingly popular, some restaurants have a designated staff member warming hot sake.

• Sake diluted with 10% water Nagata: Doesn’t taste diluted. The acidity and aroma unique to the Kimoto type sake is still evident with a slightly lighter aftertaste. I highly recommend people try this. The flavor is slightly lighter than refreshing sake, but the crispness is less notable in the aftertaste. Kitahara: The change detected in pure sake is not bad, softer to the palate and recommended for entry-level sake drinkers. Although the refreshing sake also becomes softer, the flavor

のり軽やかな後味になったという感じ。 ぜひこれは、多くの人に試していただき たいと思う。爽酒も、より軽やかに変化 したが、後味のキレが感じにくくなった。 北原 醇酒の変化は悪くない。やわらか な飲み口になり、ビギナーにはおすすめ できる。爽酒もやわらかに変化するが、 味わいがややフラットに感じるので、も のによってはおすすめしないかもしれ ない。 ・20% 割水 長田 醇酒は、20%の割水燗でも持ち 味がさほど損なわれない。生酛らしさも ある。爽酒は軽くなったというよりも、 薄まったと表現するほうが適切。20%

becomes slightly flat, not necessarily recommendable. • Sake diluted with 20% water Nagata: Pure sake diluted with 20 percent water does not lose much of its distinct flavor. The kimoto sake flavor is still present. I would say the refreshing sake is more diluted, than lighter in flavor. My impression is that 20 percent water is too diluted. Kitahara: The richness unique to pure sake is slightly lost, but still presentable. This type of sake is recommended diluted for light meals or in a lighter mood. With refreshing sake, all characteristics get lost. Our concluding recommendation is to use diluted hot sake as one variation of the hot sake. Especially the pure sake type is recommended as arranged sake. For many customers interested but hesitant to try sake because “the alcohol content is too high,” diluted hot sake can be proposed as a safe introduction to hot sake without any hesitation.

では加水しすぎと感じられた。 北原 濃醇な醇酒らしさがやや欠ける が、これはアリだと思う。このタイプを 少し軽やかに仕上げたい食事や気分の時 に実行してみたい。爽酒はすべての要素 が薄くなりすぎてしまう。  割り水燗は、ぜひお燗バリエーション の一つとして活用したいという結論にな りました。特に醇酒タイプのアレンジ版 として十分におすすめできます。 「日本 酒は飲みたいけど、アルコール度数が高 くて苦手」と躊躇しているお客様が多く いるので、身体に優しい燗酒、気兼ねな く楽しめる燗酒として提案したいもの です。

This article was referred from “Motenashibito May 2017” published by Food & Beverage Specialists Organization. この記事はNPO法人 料飲専門家団体連合会発行の“もてなしびと”2017年5月号からの転載です。

NPO 法人 料飲専門家団体連合会 (FBO)


Food & Beverage Specialists Organization

SSI International

料飲専門家団体連合会は、飲食の総合プロフェッショナル育成の為に日本ホ スピタリティサービス産業団体(JSC)などの業界団体や大学の観光学科 やホテル科等の専門学校を始めとする様々な教育機関と協力しあい、過去 20 年間にわたり研究教育活動を行っています。

日本の酒である「日本酒」「焼酎」の提供方法の研究を中心に酒類の 総合研究を行い、その教育啓蒙活動を通じて、日本における酒文化の 発展および関連業界の支援、そして日本食文化の継承発展に寄与して います。

The Food & Beverage Specialists Organization has been actively promoting research and education programs for the past 20 years to develop general food and beverage professionals in cooperation with the industrial organizations such as Japan Hospitality Service Industry Group Convention, and various educational institutions led by special schools such as Universities’ tourism departments and hotel departments.

NPO 法人 料飲専門家団体連合会 (FBO) 日本酒サービス研究会・酒匠研究会連合会


February 2019

SSI International conducts research on alcoholic beverages with a main focus on methods of providing Japanese alcoholic beverages, Sake and Shochu, to the world. Through educational campaigns, we aim to diffuse and expand Japanese sake and food culture internationally and to support, inherit, and develop relevant industries.

東京都文京区小石川 1-15-17 TN 小石川ビル 7 階 Tel. 03-5615-8201 Fax. 03-5615-8200 1-15-17 TN Koishikawa Bilding 7F Koishikawa, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo 112-0002 Japan 


Chapter 4: The Many Hardships of Expatriates My Passport is Expired! “We have an important business meeting in Mexico. Our executives from headquarters will fly in through Los Angeles, so I need you to head to Mexico,” read an order from our headquarters in Tokyo via fax. I arrived at the airport earlier than the arranged meet-up time, so I checked-in and waited for the executive to arrive from Tokyo. Since I arrived too early, the group I was waiting for was nowhere in sight. Since standing around would eventually hurt my lower back, I sat down on a seat and started reviewing the documents and schedules I stayed up late to prepare the night before, when I glanced down at my passport. Years passed quickly since I first came to the U.S. with this passport in hand, filled with many stamps from entering/leaving various countries over the years. The dates turned brown with each stamp from every country I visited giving evidence to my sweat and tears as I introduced our beloved tofu products to each respective nation. I reflected on my memories from each respective nation in a nostalgic feeling of distress mixed with satisfaction when I came across an old photo depicting my younger self – sporting a vivacious expression with thick, black hair. How different I looked then compared to today. As I thoroughly examined the old photo of myself, I came to a realization that almost stopped my heart. “My passport is expired…!”


My hand trembled as I held my passport that expired three weeks ago. Although I checked my airfare itinerary numerous times, I somehow managed to forget checking my passport…At this moment, a group of Japanese businessmen who had no idea I was wallowing in my pit of misery approached me and said, “Thank you for coming out to greet us. We look forward to your support during this business trip.” What on earth can I say to explain my ordeal to them? I felt conflicted, wondering if I should explain my situation or not. Explaining to the executives honestly that my passport was expired would surely get myself a scolding with them yelling, “You idiot!” There was no way out, I was stuck between a rock and a hard place. I resigned myself to letting whatever will happen, happen. This was no time for me to strategize for our upcoming business meeting in Mexico, not when I not even sure if I can make it there. In my flight on my way to Mexico, I envisioned the various worst-case scenarios I will soon encounter when I land. The group from Japan appeared to not notice yet. As soon as I landed in Mexico City International Airport, I stood with a ghostly expression of a dead person as I waited my turn for immigration inspection. My heart was beating so loud in my chest; I feared the group of executives from Tokyo could hear my pounding heart vibrate towards

Yasuo Kumoda Born in Karafuto in 1941. Raised in Hokkaido. Graduated Aoyama Gakuin University in 1965 and joined Morinaga Milk Industry Co Ltd. Went to IPC in Denmark as a university in 1971. Resumed his career in 1973 and joined the new product development division where he developed Bifidus milk. Joined the international division afterwards and participated in the project to preserve tofu long-term. Assigned to the U.S. to start a local company in 1985. Founded the Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. in May 1985, and assumed the post of President. In 2005, left the post of President and assumed an advisory role.

my fingertips. “Next.” Called the immigration inspector in a scary tone. The color drained from my face so clearly that even the inspector asked, “Are you ok?” I tried to appear calm in my flustered demeanor as I answered, “Yes… Yes, I’m fine.” I held my breath, anticipating the end of my career any moment now, when the inspector stamped my passport, granting me permission to enter Mexico. He apparently missed my expired deadline on my passport. Can this be real? I thought to myself when the inspector said “Gracias” with a smile, leaving me speechless. I quickly walked away before he asked “Show me your passport one more time.” I could never recall another meeting I was happier to attend than this one. パスポートの期限が切れている!   「メキシコで重要な商談がある。本社 から役員がロサンゼルス経由で現地入り するので、一緒にメキシコへ行ってくれ」 と東京本社からの命令ファックスが届 く。約束の時間より早めに空港に着いの で、チェックインを済ませて日本から合 流する予定の人を待った。こちらが早す ぎるのだろう、まだその一行は見当たら ない。立ちっ放しは腰にくるのでイスに 腰掛け、前日に夜ふけまでかかって準備 した資料と日程表に目を通していると、 ふとパスポートに目が止まった。  このパスポートを片手に渡米して早く も数年。年に何度となく繰り返す出入国 のスタンプも数多い。茶色に変色した日 付。出入国の一つ一つのスタンプが、愛 する豆腐をその国へ紹介しにいった汗と 涙の足跡なのだ。苦悩と満足感が交錯す るそれぞれの思い出があふれ、センチな 気持ちになった。そしてこの写真、若々

しいじゃないか。元気ではつらつとした表 情、髪も黒々としている。昔の自分と今の 自分の違いが何と大きいことか。しみじみ と穴のあくほど見つめていた瞬間、私の心 臓は止まりそうになった。 “ パスポートの期限が切れている! ”  3 週間前に切れてしまったパスポートを 持つ手が震えた。航空券はあれほどチェッ クしたのに、よりによってパスポートが ……。そのとき、私が絶望感に陥っている とはまったく気づかない日本からの一行 が「出迎えご苦労。よろしく頼む」と近づ いてきた。この人たちになんと説明すれば いいのか。正直に一部始終を話すべきか悩 んだ。でも正直に話したら “ バカ野郎! ” と罵詈雑言を浴びせられるのが関の山だ。 “ どの道、絶体絶命。この際行くとこまで 行こう ” と決死の覚悟だった。もう商談の 進め方を考えている場合ではない。そこま で行き着くかどうかさえわからないのだ。 メキシコへ向かう機内では、入国時に起き るであろう最悪の事態がまざまざと頭に浮 かんできた。まだ日本からの一行は気づい ていない様子。メキシコ国際空港に到着し たとき、私はすでに死人のような表情で入 国審査の順番を待った。心臓の鼓動が日本 からの一行に聞こえるのではないかと思う ほど高まり、大きく波打つ鼓動が指先まで 伝わってきた。  “Next.” と、入国審査官の怖そうな声が 飛んだ。私の青ざめた顔を心配して、審査 官も「大丈夫か」とたずねてきた。平静を 装って、しどろもどろになりながらも「イ エス、イエス、アイム・ファイン」と答える。 “ もう一巻の終わりか ” と思ったとたん、 ポンと入国許可のスタンプが押された。ど うやら期限切れを見過ごした様子だった。 まさかと思った瞬間、審査官に笑顔で「グ ラシィアス」と言っていたのには自分で驚 いた。 「もう一回見せろ」と言われない前 に足早にその場を離れた。そのときの会議 ほど、出席できることに喜びを感じた会議 はほかになかった。

Japanese Restaurant News

Vol. 29

No. 243










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