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JANUARY 2018 VOL. 1 / NO. 1



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noun: a direct line of descent.

Diffusion Magazine is a publication dedicated to exposing people to the past and present surf culture in Northeast Florida. Surfing began as a counterculture that many people rejected at first. Diffusion is about the acceptance and spread of surfing in the community after its inherent good was realized. Our goal is to inform readers, whether they are part of the surfing community or not, about what is happening locally.

With this issue, we wanted to highlight the history of surfing in Northeast Florida and how it has made a mark on the area. Much like artists, surfers have influenced the local culture by expressing themselves through surfing as an art-form. It is easy to take the current state of surf culture for granted because, for most of us, it was already established by the time we picked up our first board. We hope to give people a new perspective on the history of surfing in the area, and shed light on people’s efforts to keep the community alive.

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Dylan Demers Adobe Stock Connor Cornell Tanner Swindell SurfDog Photography Sunrsie Surf Shop Austin’s Surf Shop Drew Miller Gunner Hughes Folio Weekly Surfer Today Florida Surf Museum East Coast Surf Hall of Fame Jacksonville Surfing Hall of Fame

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As always, I would like to say thank you to all of the content creators that make this magazine possible. North Florida is full of life and passionate people and it is incredible to be able to share that with the community. - Dylan Demers




featured STORY

featured STUFF



This article by Matthew B. Shaw digs deep into the foundation of the surf club that helped grow the surf community in Jacksoncille and Northeast Florida as whole into what it is today.


Have you ever thought about what surfers used before they could buy surf wax? We have an easy to follow recipe for surf wax that you can make at home, is good for the environment, and works like a charm.


surf SHOPS

sweet SPOTS



Sunrise opened in the late 1970s and has been a staple in the surf community ever since. They want to encourage people and provide them with the tools they need to succeed.


This issue features a few spots that local surfers frequent. These spots foster friendly competition among surfers and are well-known in the community.


IN THE community




Professor Trevor Dunn teaches a board shaping course at University of North Florida which allows students to better understand what goes into the production of surfboards while they shape and glass one for themselves.

Longboards are the most traditional surfboard shape and work well here in North Florida. We have some facts to help you understand why a longboard may be good for you.

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Sunrise opened for business on

November 6, 1976. SUNRISE SURF SHOP BY JOHN DOE With hard work and dedication through the years, Sunrise has become North Florida’s favorite core surf and skate shop. They have been voted the BEST “Surf & Skate Shop” by Folio Weekly and Void Magazine time and time again. Sunrise has been owned and operated as a small family business since day one and has provided North Florida surfers and skaters with a place where they can go and find everything they need. Throughout the years Sunrise’s motto has been “Surf & Skate With The Best” a slogan coined by our core surf and skate teams. The shop has helped athletes through the years achieve their individual goals and aspirations within their own sport. In recent years, the Sunrise surf team has been dominating the regional and national surf shop challenges in which Oakley sponsors. Since 2007,

Sunrise has won 9 regional events and in that time span has brought home 3-national titles, earning the title of the best and most core surf shop in the US. This success equates to product knowledge and customer service, which will help you find that perfect board. Sunrise is an avid sponsor of local surf contests, charities, and other sports affiliated teams. The shop is involved with various clothing drives and surf camps dedicated to children with autism. Sunrise has yet to lose sight of what is important– giving back to the local community. The Sunrise surf syndicate has been elevated on a scale where everyone in the surf industry knows the shop and its history. As the shop turns another page we want to take this time to thank all of our dedicated customers, families, and athletes for making Sunrise what it has become today.


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ABOVE Photo by Gunner Hughes RIGHT Mural at Green Room Brewing Co. 10 / Bloodline

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Here are a few of our favorite




Surf Location 4th Ave. North

Wave Quality

5/10 for a Florida wave; High Tide: punch lines that can get hollow; Low Tide: breaks outside near the end of the pier, and is great for long-boards

The Surfers

Very crowded, can get pretty competitive


Shortboard, longboard, fish, funboard, stand up paddle board

Paddle Out

Can be tough depending on the swell

Skill Level

Total beginner to advanced

Watch Out For

Jellyfish, sharks, fishermen

Water Condition Murky

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Surf Location

Surf Location

Wave Quality

Wave Quality

The Surfers

The Surfers



Inside Hanna Park 6/10 for a Florida wave. Good shortboard wave. Punchy lines that can get hollow. Very crowded, can get pretty competitive Shortboard, fish, funboard

Paddle Out Can be tough

Skill Level

Beginner to advanced

Watch Out For Jellyfish, sharks

Water Condition

Dirty water from the St. John’s River

A Street

6/10 for a Florida wave. A nice wave that can get hollow on larger swells Crowd is spread out and mellow Shortboard, longboard, fish, funboard, stand up paddle board

Paddle Out

Easy to moderate

Skill Level

Beginner to advanced

Watch Out For

Jellyfish, sharks, stingrays

Water Condition

Clean but can get murky after storms

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ABOVE Photo by Connor Cornell LEFT Mural at Carribbean Connection Diffusion / 15



representatives from Northeast Florida’s surf community met in an effort to consolidate power and provide a unified voice, illustrative of their mutual ideals. BACK TO BASICS BY MATTHEW B. SHAW

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Though the list of attendees varies depending on the source providing the information, all are in agreement that what was discussed that evening among a consortium of watermen— thought to include Bill Heath, Cesar Garcia, Bill Hixon, Tim New, Tim Ellis, David Lambert and a few others—would lay the foundation for one of the most influential surf clubs ever formed on the East Coast. Still dripping water and expounding stoke from an early spring morning spent sharing warm-water waves in Ponte Vedra Beach, Tim Ellis and Bill Holden convey a feeling many surfers know well—a casualness with each other and contentment with the world around them, a kind of post-surf Zen. Their friendship spans nearly five decades.

At the time, longboards and hot-dogging were still de rigueur and style-masters like Bruce Clelland were setting the performance bar in the water. California surfboard-maker Allen Surfboards established its own manufacturing facility in Jacksonville and afforded many a budding wave-rider the opportunity to maintain the lifestyle, at least for a few summers. After seeing what was coming in from the West Coast, guys like Lee Cliett and Harry Dickinson started building their own boards and, eventually, opening shops to sell them. When Bill Hixon opened Hixon’s Surf Shop in 1964, it quickly became the local hangout for the budding counterculture. “Back then, there were little pockets of surfers at the beach,” says Ellis. “There was a group of guys who surfed the pier and then there was a group of really hot surfers out of Neptune and Atlantic.”

“I was living on 33rd Avenue in South Jax Beach, and I was probably 14 or 15 when I met Bill,” says Ellis. “He was head lifeguard at the Ponte Vedra Inn and Club.” “I wasn’t a native, I didn’t grow up surfing like these guys,” says Holden. “It wasn’t until I was 18 and in college that these guys brought me in and taught me how to surf.” “They’ve been putting up with me now for 40 years.” These days, both men arguably spend more time in the water than ever (though Holden does so on a waveski and Ellis on a standup paddleboard). Ellis retired a few years ago after a long career as a partner in a Jacksonville law firm. Holden spent decades as a teacher and Neptune Beach lifeguard captain. But the men’s professions—regardless of the success they achieved in their respective fields—would never define them. Instead, the years spent chasing waves as part of a small, insular crowd of dedicated beach boys remain the most definitive of both men’s lives.



“There was [East Coast Surfing Hall of Famers] Larry Miniard and Joe Roland,” Ellis continues with Holden interjecting to add names to the list. “Vincent Roland, Tim New, Dickie Rosborough, Robbie Rosborough. They came out of that hotbed of surfers in Atlantic Beach.” And then there were the surf clubs. Well before the days of billion-dollar T-shirt companies, milliondollar prize purses, and luxury yacht surf trips—in fact, well before “Gidget”—surf clubs were responsible for disseminating surf culture. Members would get together to talk board design, spin narratives of recent surf safaris, drink beer, and plan the occasional competition among members or against competing clubs.

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Surf Clubs proliferated in Southern California in the 1950s and ’60s. Among the most famous was Windansea Surf Club out of La Jolla. Some of the best and most notorious waveriders of the early 1960s—Skip Frye, Mike Hynson, Butch Van Artsdalen— were Windansea members; accounts of their early trips to the East Coast would become prerequisite reading in the surf lore canon. As surfing grew in popularity and the Right Coast began cultivating its own crop of talented wave-riders, surfers in Florida began organizing as well. Oceanside Surf Club was formed in the mid-1960s and filled its ranks with older surfers, mainly from Jax Beach. However, it took a Fletcher High School party in the late 1960s, and a chance encounter with a random furnace of a vaguely Hawaiiansounding point of origin to inspire the coalescence of the younger generation of Northeast Florida surfers. Legend has it that party attendees from the surf community had been marinating on the idea of starting their own club to rival Oceanside. At some point, the gathering’s collective attention was brought to fixate on the house’s furnace, particularly its logo. Soon all were in agreement that pronouncing the “i” in Utica, the logo on the boiler, as a long “e” (U-Tee-ka) and changing the “c” to “k” would make for a radical surf club sobriquet. The Utika Surf Club was born. “It went from pockets, to us all coming together in middle school and high school, and by ’66 or ’67, we were all kind of, more or less, hanging out together,” says Ellis. The first Utika logo featured a lower-case “t” crossed with a surfboard, the skeg hanging down over the “i.” David Lambert drew that inaugural design. After adding names to the list of original members, “Johnny McKay, Tim New, Bill Longenecker, Jerry Hoey, Joe and Jimmy Steeg,” Lambert shares his regrets that the club was so short-lived. “There were a ton of good surfers. Really fun times,” he says. “We put on one of the first big surf contests in Northeast Florida, The Utika Surfing Invitational,” Lambert says. 18 / Bloodline

“But by ’72 or ’73, people had either moved away or grown out of surfing altogether.” Surveying any lineup of surfers in 2015, one is likely to find as many retirees in the water as groms. But in the last throes of the 1970s, the first crop of Northeast Florida surfers were charting new territory as they entered their mid-to-late 20s. “Back then, surfing didn’t have a very positive image in the community,” says Bill Holden. “I was a teacher, and a lifeguard, and still surfing—but, honestly, there were these punk groups who were giving the sport a bad name.” America in the 1970s and 1980s was in the midst of a crime wave and proliferation of fatherless homes, the effects of which are still felt. The beaches were no different. Drug cultures infiltrated idyllic beach communities up and down the East and West Coasts. Malapropisms from punk and post-punk rock movements gave rise to highly aggressive groups (see: the Point Break crew Warchild ran with) that assumed a license to break from long-held social norms and etiquette, especially in the water. “There were a few young guys going around the beach calling themselves surf Nazis,” says Holden. “They were cutting people off in the lineup and stuff like that.” “We were in our late 20s and we were some of the oldest in the water,” Ellis says. “I don’t think, at that time, surfing had become recognized as a valid lifelong sport.” At 68, Cesar Garcia—who claims, with great pride, to have been the first townie accepted into the Utika Surf Club—may be in the best shape of his life. Even before retiring in his late 40s, Garcia had already made surfing priority number one. He’s lived all over the world—Hawaii, Dominican Republic, Spain— and there’s a common thread every time he puts down roots: proximity to world-class surf. Around 1979, despite being in his late 20s and despite taking on a fairly straight-edge profession, young CPA Garcia was surfing a lot. And traveling a lot.


“I remember telling Tim New [co-owner of Hixon’s Surf Shop] about my trip to California. I told him about Windansea Surf Club starting back up again,” Garcia remembers. “I told him I thought we should start our own surf travel club.” In those pre-Internet, pre-Facebook days, Garcia was desperate to share his surf-exploration experiences with his Northeast Florida surf brethren. He thought bringing back Utika would be the best way. “I was taking all these trips alone and I basically wanted to people to start traveling with me,” Garcia remembers. Garcia says he and Tim New talked it over with Bill Hixon. “Hixon heard what we wanted to do and thought a club of older guys would help make surfing a legitimate sport,” Garcia laughs. “I thought it was kind of funny.” A plan was hatched to invite surfing business professionals, all of them over the ripe old age of 25, to start a surf club that could represent a positive image of surfers in the community. When a search for a doctor failed to unearth any candidates with legitimate surf cred, the group settled on a dentist named Steve Carpenter and Tim Ellis, fresh from law school, would fulfill the lawyer niche. “We all came up with a list of 25 to 30 people to invite to the first meeting. We held it at the former Jax Beach City Hall,” Garcia says. “All of the founders came up and talked about what we wanted to do. We asked for $30 [in membership dues].” The newly formed group needed a name. Members drew up a list of at least 10 possibilities. “Many of us thought we needed our location in the name,” Garcia says. “We wanted something like Jacksonville-Surf, or North-Florida-something. But we also wanted to have the word ‘wave’ in there.”


Ultimately, WaveMasters Society earned the most votes. From there, the club began holding monthly meetings, each summit including food, beer, jovial teasing, surf movie premieres and, of course, traveling exploits. Today, for any Northeast Florida surfer, a Central American trip is a rite of passage. But when the WaveMasters Society was formed, surf travel was still in its infancy. “It was all about reconnecting with old friends and a community,” says Tim Ellis. “We were learning about all these new places. I remember one particular set of pictures from Costa Rica and Nicaragua that made all of our jaws just drop. Growing up here, we had never seen any waves like that. It was always really exciting.” In continuing their efforts to improve the image of surfers in the community, WaveMasters Society members introduced their Diffusion / 19


share of charitable initiatives. Over the years, they’ve supported the Donner Community Center in Atlantic Beach and Carver Community Center in Jax Beach and sponsored college scholarships for promising young surfers. And as the WaveMasters expanded their ranks, the idea that the club should host a contest began to seem like a natural extension. J.D. Motes, who’d been involved in running contests with the Eastern Surfing Association, was instrumental in getting the WaveMasters contest off the ground and into the water, along with the late Sandy Forsyth, of Aqua East Surf Shop. From its inception in 1984, the WaveMasters Society Pro-Am brought some of the most talented surfers from across the U.S. to Northeast Florida—most notably, a young Kelly Slater, who took first place in the menehune (12 and under) division. The 11-time world champion’s brother, Sean Slater, also competed in WaveMasters. West Florida standout Yancy Spencer III would bring a contingent of Gulf Coast surfers to the contest. And California longboard surfer/shaper extraordinaire Robert August surfed WaveMasters (it’s the only contest the living legend ever actually won). But more than attracting talent from beyond the First Coast, the annual surf contest became a showcase for Northeast Florida’s immense homegrown talent. Though not often recognized as a talent hotbed by the public at large, Northeast Florida has a reputation in the surf media as a breeding ground for future stars. Surfing Magazine’s photo editor Jimmy “Jimmicane” Wilson has traveled incessantly in his 29 years on the planet, shooting the best surfers on the most critical waves in the world. Wilson honed his surfing and photography chops off the beaches of St. Augustine. “North Florida is definitely a hotbed,” says Wilson, whose job has rendered him a First Coast expat. “Living out in Southern California for the past seven years, I realize it even more. So many guys rip around Jax and St. Aug. The average surfer is actually much better back home than out here [in California].” Local pros like Asher Nolan, Ryan Briggs, and Karina Petroni, as well as St. Augustine upstarts like Gabe Kling all cut their early competitive teeth at the WaveMasters, climbing the ranks from menehune to the Pro contest. This crop of young surfers would help establish Northeast Florida as one of the strongest Eastern Surfing Association divisions on the Atlantic Coast, a perennial powerhouse at regional and national competitions. Wilson feels the contest brings out the best aspects of the area’s surf culture. By all accounts, Mitch Kaufman had a role in building the WaveMasters contest into a premier surf event. He’s been running the contest and competing in it for more than 20 years now. “WaveMasters came around at a time in the late ’70s, early ’80s, when the stoke was kind of wearing thin,” Kaufman says from the control room of his Atlantic Video headquarters. “I don’t know if it was the economy or what, but something needed to breathe new life into the sport.” 20 / Bloodline

"FROM ITS INCEPTION IN 1984, THE WAVEMASTERS SOCIETY PRO-AM BROUGHT SOME OF THE MOST TALENTED SURFERS FROM ACROSS THE U.S. TO NORTHEAST FLORIDA—MOST NOTABLY, A YOUNG KELLY SLATER." Though he knew all the former Utika members, during the first few years of the contest, Kaufman was too young to join the WaveMasters Society. “I never actually joined the club,” Kaufman laughs. “I always surfed the contest in the first few years. But I also filmed it and took pictures for my show [“The Radical Side”].” In the 1990s, Kaufman says, the contest needed some new blood. “I had all these ideas about judging and getting good judges. [The WaveMasters Society] just kind of handed it over to me.” Using WaveMasters as a rallying point, Kaufman helped many a young surfer blossom. “I had kids like [Ryan] Briggs out there judging contests from an early age. Usually young guys are running from the judges’ table. But I got him over there early on. That helped them with the competitive aspects of surfing,” Kaufman says. “I basically forced Karina [Petroni] to surf her first contest,” he laughs. “Looking back at all the kids who have come through the contest, and I’ve compared results from every year, you know—like the Thompson brothers—they all won menehunes and they all won boys’, then they turn pro, and now they’re winning the pro contest.” The WaveMasters contest became a revenue-generating endeavor, allowing the Society to ramp up its charitable efforts. A large part of the contest’s proceeds now go to the American Red Cross


Volunteer Lifesaving Corps, aka Jax Beach lifeguards. In turn, the city of Jacksonville Beach has become a supporter of the event, more affirmation of the WaveMasters efforts to paint surfing and surfers in a positive light. Unfortunately, just as the contest has grown in popularity, the WaveMasters Society as a surf club has lost much of its momentum. “[The club aspect] has really just died, OK?” Tim Ellis laments. “I think it’s attributable to when we were really involved, we all had our kids coming up through WaveMasters. But then there was a generation 10 to 15 years behind us, and we didn’t get to know those surfers.” “And honestly, we didn’t do a great job of replenishing our ranks and reaching out to the next generation,” Ellis says. Today, countless websites offer surfers the ability to find pictures and watch videos of waves ridden in distant lands, while social media allows surfers from different communities to interact with one another. “When you look at the rise of the Internet, and where people get information about surf travel,” says Ellis, “now you don’t even need to leave your office or your home, much less get together with a group of friends, to find out about a new place to surf.” “There’s too many other things to do,” Holden interjects. Though the surf club may no longer be the ideal vehicle for which to promulgate it, Jim Gann wants the original intentions of the WaveMasters Society—to build camaraderie and promote surfing in Northeast Florida—to live on. While attending the Beaches’ annual Springing the Blues Festival a few years ago, Gann, who has a background in advertising, says he began to feel that Jax Beach would be better served promoting one of its more interesting, homegrown exports.



“I just thought, we are a beach community, and we don’t really have anything going on that truly captures that culture, or lifestyle,” he says. Gann’s worked in surf shops, too. He says some of the bigger surf brands like RVCA and Volcom have integrated art and music to help promote surfing as a lifestyle. “The surf community here is so diverse and dynamic,” Gann says. The rebranded 32nd annual WaveMasters Surf Festival will pair the contest with a day of surf-related programming, including guest speakers, board-building demos, history lessons, and a range of instruction from paddling technique to nutrition and fitness. Former Atlantic Beach surf pro and world-renowned surf coach (and former WaveMasters contest standout) Sean Mattison will be on hand during the event to lead a seminar on contest strategy. "Really, we are trying to tap into the surf club days," Gann says. “The surf club was all about camaraderie. It was all about sharing ideas and interests. And what better venue to do that than the longest-running surf event in Florida, the WaveMasters contest?”


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ABOVE Photo by Surf Dog Photo RIGHT Mural at Carribbean Connection 22 / Bloodline

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Surfing has made its way into the classroom. UNF SHAPES BY SPINNAKER Students in the Surfboard Design and Fabrication class have been researching the mechanics of surfboards and the engineering involved. Ultimately the class allows student to design and build a miniature model board, and then apply the principles learned in order to design and shape whatever style of surfboard they want. Students purchase blanks and shaping tools from a local surf supply shop, Surf Source, and receive a discount for being enrolled in the course. The staff at Surf Source are always excited to see students inspired by surfing and try to help out in any way that they can. The class, taught by Associate Professor of Ceramics Trevor Dunn, is a three-credit elective course taken mainly by juniors and seniors. Dunn has been teaching at UNF for about six years and has only offered the course a few times, but the positive response students have had has led to an increased interest in the course among students. Dunn has surfed most of his life and he encourages his students to engage with their passion and teaches them to appreciate the craft of shaping. “Being able to create my own board is pretty gratifying,” said Angela Antigua, a Coastal Engineering graduate student. “It’s a lot more difficult than people think.” As well as fabricating a surfboard, the course description states that students use a cross-disciplinary approach to industrial design, problem solving, creativity, and critical thinking. “Surfing is one of my favorite things to do, so I’m looking forward to riding something that I made,” said International Relations major Scott Keith.

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We had a chance to talk to Professor Dunn about the course and the following was his response. Q: WHY WAS THE CLASS CREATED? A: “Its brings together my interest in art and design with my first passion in life which was surfing.”

Q: F AVORITE PART ABOUT TEACHING THE COURSE? A: “My favorite part is when you see the excitement in their face when something really starts to come together. Usually its when their starting to form the rails of the surfboard and its really starting to look like something that they recognize as a surfboard. Its like a light comes on in their head and their face just starts to glow.”

Q:  WHAT CAN SHAPING A SURFBOARD TEACH A STUDENT? A: “The class encompasses so many different aspects of

education as far as theres physics and engineering that goes into it as well as design. So their learning not only how to use the tools and refining their craftsmanship, but their learning why certain components drive the performance of the board.”

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ABOVE Photo by Connor Cornell LEFT Mural at Pine Gate Renewables Diffusion / 27

longb BOARDS


A classic longboard is the most traditional board shape. Longboards were what surfers in Malibu, California & Waikiki, Hawaii originally rode in the 1950’s & 1960’s. Someone learning to surf should start on a longboard shape to learn wave selection, paddling technique, and turning basics. Expert longboarders are the masters of style, surfing in a flowing and visually appealing manner. Riding a longboard will remind you that sometimes you have to take it slow. Due to the size it takes a lot of effort to swing the board around when turning. What they lack in maneuverability they more than make up for in glide. The planning surface on a longboard is huge. Combine that with a medium rocker and you have a board that will float over the surface of the water, cutting through chop and providing you with one of the cleanest rides you will ever experience. Everyone needs one longboard. If for nothing else, they are needed for small days. We think that if you take a second to appreciate the beauty of riding a longboard, you might just decide to take it out more often.

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oards BOARDS



Wave Type

Tail Shape

Longboard designs come in tri-fin, single fin and 2+1 which is one big center fin and two smaller support fins.

Longboards are the only way to go if you want to surf every day. When it is 1-2ft, a 足足足足big log will work wonders.

These boards can be anywhere from 8ft up to 12ft in length, though most people max out at around 10ft.

The tails can vary but it is very common to see a square or a round tail and sometimes even a rounded pin.

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ABOVE Photo by Surf Dog Photo RIGHT Mural at Carribbean Connection 30 / Bloodline

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Make your own


What you’ll need: Bee’s Wax

Smaller Container

Coconut Oil


Rubber Gloves

Old Newspaper

Large Pot


Find locally if possible

Most grocery stores sell it

Available almost anywhere

(Not your mother’s best pot)

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To place the ingredients

Food coloring works too

(Put down for protection)

Paper coffee cups are perfect (you can tear them up after)


MAKING WARM WATER WAX INGREDIENTS • 2.25 grams of bee’s wax • 750 ml of coconut oil DIRECTIONS All you need is bee’s wax and coconut oil. The scents for these will already smell awesome, so no need for extra smell and you can put in color. 1. Place all of the ingredients into the bowl. 2. Pre-heat the water and place the container with the wax ingredients into the water. 3. Stir, stir and then stir some more. When it melts down to a liquid, remove it from the burner. 4. Pour into the molds you have prepared and leave the wax to dry for about 3-4 hours or more. They are ready once they are hard.


INGREDIENTS • 3 parts bee’s wax • 1 part coconut Oil • 1 part tree resin DIRECTIONS Directions for making the cold water are identical to the warm water wax apart from the extra added ingredient of tree resin. 1. Place all of the ingredients into the bowl. 2. Pre-heat the water and place the container with the wax ingredients into the water. 3. Stir, stir and then stir some more. When it melts down to a liquid, remove it from the burner. 4. Like with the regular wax, pour into the molds you have prepared and leave the wax to dry for about 3-4 hours or more. They are ready once they are hard.

It's a fun process with friends or by yourself, and you get to be a lot more conscious of the products you use.

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