Issuu on Google+

UNIVERSITY OF THE ARTS london college of fashion bsc(hons) cosmetic science

!

CAN BINDER LEVEL REDUCED WITH TREATED PIGMENTS IN PRESSED POWDER?

presented by: vivian do 1 june 2010


contents • • • • • • •

Introduction Formulation Methodology Results and discussion Conclusion Limitation and further studies References 2


INTRODUCTION • Pigments is prime ingredients responsible for colour. • Pigments definition: “Pigments are coloured, black, white or flourescent particulate organic and inorganic solids....They alter appearance by selective absortion and/or scattering light. Pigments are usually dispersed in vehicle or substrates for application...” (Colour Pigment Manufacturers Association)

3


INTRODUCTION • Treated pigments introduced since 1980s by Japanese companies. • Treated with organic and inorganic compounds to enhance their characteristics. • Not commonly used due to high cost.

4


aim To investigate the effect of treated pigments against untreated pigments on a pressed face powder formulation on binder level in terms of the feel and application characteristics.


formulation Raw materials

INCI Name

Function

%w/w

Batch size (g)

J - 68 BC

Talc

Absorbents

76.70

19.17

Pigments

CI

Colourant

15.00

3.75

Paratexin (R) M Methylparaben

Preservatives

0.20

0.05

Paratexin (R) P Propylparaben

Preservatives

0.10

0.03

Binder

8.00

2.00

100.00

25.00

Phase A

Phase B

Binder

Total

6


formulation

7


formulation Untreated Pigments

7


formulation Untreated Pigments Trade name Sun Croma Yellow Iron Oxide C33-1700 Sun Croma Red Iron Oxide C33-2199 Sun Croma Black Iron Oxide C33-5000 Titanium Dioxide - White C47-051

7

INCI CI 77492 CI 77491 CI 77499 CI 77891


formulation Untreated Pigments Trade name Sun Croma Yellow Iron Oxide C33-1700 Sun Croma Red Iron Oxide C33-2199 Sun Croma Black Iron Oxide C33-5000 Titanium Dioxide - White C47-051 Treated Pigments

7

INCI CI 77492 CI 77491 CI 77499 CI 77891


formulation Untreated Pigments Trade name Sun Croma Yellow Iron Oxide C33-1700 Sun Croma Red Iron Oxide C33-2199 Sun Croma Black Iron Oxide C33-5000 Titanium Dioxide - White C47-051

INCI CI 77492 CI 77491 CI 77499 CI 77891

Treated Pigments Trade name Iron Oxide/CI77492, Isostearyl Sebacate, Disodium Stearoyl glutamate Iron Oxide/CI77491, Isostearyl Sebacate, Disodium Stearoyl glutamate Iron Oxide/CI77499, Isostearyl Sebacate, Disodium Stearoyl glutamate

INCI NHS-C331700-10 NHS-C332199-10 NHS-C335000-10

Titanium Dioxide/CI77891, Isostearyl Sebacate, Disodium Stearoyl glutamate

NHS-C347051-10

7


NHS TREATED PIGMENTS

8


NHS TREATED PIGMENTS

8


NHS TREATED PIGMENTS

Pigments 8


NHS TREATED PIGMENTS

Pigments 8


NHS TREATED PIGMENTS

Pigments 8


NHS TREATED PIGMENTS Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Pigments 8


NHS TREATED PIGMENTS Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Pigments 8


NHS TREATED PIGMENTS Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Pigments 8


NHS TREATED PIGMENTS Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Isostearyl Sebacate

Pigments 8


NHS TREATED PIGMENTS !

Figure 1: Micro image of Ester NHS treatment 9


formulation

10


formulation Binders

10


formulation Binders Trade name

INCI

DC 5562

Bis-Hydroxyethanoxypropyl

Thixcin R

Trihydroxystearin

10


formulation Binders Trade name

INCI

DC 5562

Bis-Hydroxyethanoxypropyl

Thixcin R

Trihydroxystearin Binder level

10


formulation Binders Trade name

INCI

DC 5562

Bis-Hydroxyethanoxypropyl

Thixcin R

Trihydroxystearin Binder level

Untreated pigments

Treated pigments

With DC 5562

CDC8

DC8

DC7

DC6

DC5

DC4

DC3

DC2

DC1

With Thixcin R

CTH8

TH8

TH7

TH6

TH5

TH4

TH3

TH2

TH1

Binder level

8%

8%

7%

6%

5%

4%

3%

2%

1%

10


methodology Colour measurement !

Pigment dispersion Binder dispersion

!

Drop test Penetration test !

Test panel on sensory attributes

Colour matching 11


RESULTS AND DISCUSSION


pigment dispersion

Before

13

After dispersion


no visible specks or streak occurs

14


colour matching !

! !

Control DC7 DC5 DC3 DC1 DC DC8 DC6 DC4 DC2

Control TH7 TH5 TH3 TH1 TH TH8 TH6 TH4 TH2

!

Figure 2: Number of panellist recognition on darkest and lightest samples

Figure 3: Samples in the North Light box (TL84 light)

- 100% panel test recognised there was colour differences between samples. - 19 out of 20 panellist indicated that Control DC which is untreated pigments with 8% DC5562 was darkest. 15


colour measurement !

!

Figure 4a: L* value at the beginning Figure 4b: L* value at after 8 weeks - The L* value indicates lightness, L* value increased after 8 weeks, that means the colour has changed over the time. - No statistically correlation coefficient. 16


colour measurement !

Figure 5a: The colour difference of treated pigments (with DC 5562) compared with Control DC at the beginning and after 8 weeks

!

Figure 5b: The colour difference of treated pigments (with Thixcin R) compared with Control TH at the beginning and after 8 weeks


drop test !

• Weight loss lower than 10%, endured more than 5 drops. • 1% DC 5562 made a weak compact strength. • Thixcin R had good compact strength. 18


penetration test

!

!

Figure 6a: The penetration force determined by Texture Analyser with DC 5562

Figure 6b: The penetration force determined by Texture Analyser with Thixcin R


penetration test !

!

Break Distance !

Figure 6c: Hardness at 1mm and Break Force 20

Work of Puncture


sensory test !

Figure 7: Payoff mean scores vs. creaminess and skinfeel 21


sensory test !

Payoff

!

Creaminess

Skin feel

!

Creaminess

Score 1 to 5: lower score = excellent pick up, no glazing

Score 1 to 9: higher score = better creaminess and skin feel

Figure 8: Sensory attributes range scores 22


sensory test !

Table 1: Summary of pair comparisions (based on Tukey HSD)


sensory test !

Rank: 10 is most preferrable

Figure 9: Preferrable ranking 24


conclusion • The results obtained were satisfactory. • Demonstrated treated pigments better than untreated pigments with lower binder level. • Saves time and cost of manufacting • 2% level binder ensure compact strength, good pay off, creaminess and skin feel. • Appealing to consumer. 25


LIMITATION & RECOMMENDED FURTHER STUDIES •

Different treated pigments have different physicals and chemical properties so that it could have a different affect no the binder. This study was experimented on an NHS treated pigment, DC 5562 and Thixcin R, therefore any application of the study is likely to be true for these only.

In the future, complementary study with other type of treated pigments enabling a better understanding and applications their advantages or eliminate any disadvantages might occur.

A further investigate on electrostatic during dispersion process would provide a better understanding of treated pigment dispersion.

Especially, a further study on how colour differences of treated pigments with spectrophotometer would be a great interest in the applications of eye shadow or blusher, which often requires good colour matching. 26


REFERENCES •

Dow Corning® (n.d.) Dow Corning® 5562 Carbinol Fluid Application. [Online] Available from: http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=1641EN [Assessed 29th November 2010]

Farber, L. (1992) Face Powders. In: Balsam, M. S. and Sagarin, E. (eds.) Cosmetics Science and Technology, Volume 1. 2nd edition. New York, London: Wiley-Interscience, pp. 335-354

Konica Minolta (2004) Spectrophometer CM-2500c. Japan: Konica Minolta Sensing, Inc

Korochi, R. and Tranchant, J. (2009) Decorative Products. In: Barel, A. O., Paye, M. & Maibach, H. (eds.) Handbook of cosmetic science and technology. 3rd edition. New York: Marcel Dekker. pp. 391 - 406

Miyoshi Kasei, Inc. (2009) Miyoshi Product Range [Presentation] S. Black Ltd. October

S. Black Ltd. (n.d.) Formulation reference 2365: Pressed Powder with Natural Dry Binder [Online] Available from www.sblack.com [assessed 29th November 2009]

S. Black Ltd. (n.d.) Thixcin (R) R – Trihydrostearin [Online] Available from www.sblack.com [assessed 29th November 2009]

Stable Micro Systems (n.d.) Texture Analysis Overview [Online] Availalble from: http:// www.stablemicrosystems.com [Accessed 20/11/2009]

VeriVide (n.d.) Verivide North Light Box CAC60. [Online] Available from http://www.verivide.com/ start/en/products/colour-assessment-cabinets/cac-60 [Accessed 1st December 2009]

27


Can using treated pigments reduced binder level in pressed powder