Page 1

Intimate portraits

Flipping heck

A helping hand

A Dulwich man’s life in pictures

Lordship Lane’s new burger joint

The charity tackling local loneliness

ue Iss 2

A f r e e n e w s p a p e r fo r D u lw i c h

/ ly

Ju

The Dulwich Diverter

st gu Au 2016

A Hamlet hero Talking tactics with Gavin Rose


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NEWS | 3

Welcome to issue two of The Dulwich Diverter Thank you for picking up the second edition of The Dulwich Diverter, a new local newspaper for SE21 and SE22. The Diverter is the sister title of The Peckham Peculiar, another local paper covering Peckham and Nunhead. Both titles are published six times a year. Since launching the first issue of the Diverter in May, we now have more than 130 stockists in East, West, North Dulwich and the Village. They range from cafés, pubs and bars to shops, salons and libraries. To view the full list, go to tiny.cc/ddstockists.

This paper aims to shine a spotlight on the many different people who live and work in Dulwich and who make it the special place it is. We will feature familiar faces with interesting stories to tell; and people you had no idea lived locally who have led fascinating lives. In this issue we speak to Tim Sheehan from Franklins, who tells us about his regular tips to Calais to cook for 5,000 refugees (page 12); and meet Magnum photographer Chris Steele-Perkins, who has snapped everyone from Mods to Margaret Thatcher (page 8).

We discover the invaluable work that Link Age Southwark does to help the elderly in south-east London (page 20); and Dulwich Hamlet manager Gavin Rose tells us what’s in store for the Pink and Blues as the 2016-17 football season kicks off (page 10). You’ll find the regular Diversions pages at the back of the paper, featuring an allotment column penned by Independent journalist and East Dulwich resident Jane Merrick, a Dulwich-themed crossword, a book review and lots more. The Diverter was crowdfunded by 150

hugely generous people, most of whom are local to Dulwich or the surrounding area. It’s entirely thanks to them that we’ve been able to write, photograph, design and print our first two issues. From now on we will rely solely on advertising to keep printing the paper. If you’re a south-east London business who would like to advertise with us, please drop us a line at dulwichdiverter@gmail.com to find out more. We hope you enjoy the issue! Mark McGinlay and Kate White

Save our school playing field Plans to build sheltered accommodation for elderly people on a primary school playing field are expected to be submitted later this summer – but parents have warned the impact on pupils would be “truly devastating”. The Dulwich Almshouse Charity is proposing to relocate 20 residents from the almshouses in Dulwich Village to new homes in the grounds of Judith Kerr Primary School (JKPS) on Half Moon Lane. The charity is partly funded by the Dulwich Estate, which owns the freehold of the school grounds. It wants to build a new development of assisted living accommodation on top of the state school’s only playing field. The charity said the existing almshouses were first declared unfit for purpose back in 1935, and it has appointed Brighton-based architect Pollard Thomas Edwards to draw up plans for the new homes. But JKPS’s Save the Green Space Campaign said that if the development goes ahead, the school will lose two thirds of its outdoor play and sports space and all of its usable green space. JKPS currently has 195 pupils and this is expected to rise to 350 in a few years’ time. Campaigners said: “The playing field is an integral part of the school, used for sports, play, education and social events. The removal of the playing field will severely restrict the opportunities for education, play and sport for generations of schoolchildren. “Including the green space, the school still has only just over half the recommended minimum external space for PE [set by the Department for Education]. Without the green space it would be just 19 per cent. “The local community needs good schools and the playing field is a vital resource to JKPS to achieve this. The local community and JKPS will be best served now and in the long term by JKPS retaining its playing field.” Katherine Leopold, secretary of the

PHOTO © CLAUDIA LEISINGER

Friends of Judith Kerr, added: “The Dulwich Estate is an extensive landowner in this area. We are asking them to look elsewhere for possible development sites and to safeguard our children’s right to play, exercise and learn outside. “As an educational charity the Dulwich Estate know how important this is and how unjust they are being pitting their beneficiary the Dulwich Almshouse Charity against a thriving state primary school.” The second draft of Southwark Council’s New Southwark Plan proposes to designate the playing field as protected open space. The plan will go through several further stages including a public examination and is unlikely to be formally adopted before

2018. A council spokesman said the relevant planning officer will decide how much weight to attach to the proposed designation when the almshouse scheme comes to planning but that it will be “relevant”. Responding to parents’ concerns, Dulwich Almshouse Charity’s Catrin Waugh said: “We provide warden-assisted living for almshouse residents who are at least 60 years of age and in need, hardship or distress. “This is the third site that has been explored as a potential home for a new almshouse since I was appointed as a trustee in 2005. The previous two sites turned out to be unsuitable in terms of location or size. “We are preparing proposals for a new almshouse designed specifically to meet the

needs of older people. Accessibility, generous internal space, plenty of natural light, energy efficiency and shared communal facilities will all contribute to a higher quality of accommodation. “The Dulwich Almshouse Charity is committed to consultation and keen to understand the views and ideas of the wider community. The consultation is ongoing on our website where comments are welcome. In the meantime, we are considering the feedback we have received so far. We believe this is the proper approach prior to an application later in the summer.” Have your say on the plans at tiny.cc/ almshouse.

The Dulwich Diverter Editors Mark McGinlay, Kate White | Design The Creativity Club http://thecreativity.club | Cover design Jake Tilson Photographer Lima Charlie | Sub-editor Jack Aston | Illustrators Jessica Kendrew, Peter Rhodes | Marketing and social media Mark McGinlay Contributors Lorna Allan, Jessica Cargill Thompson, Emma Finamore, Helen Graves, Jessica Gulliver, Dan Harder, Lanre Makele, Jane Merrick, Elizabeth Rust, Luke G Williams For editorial and advertising enquiries, please email dulwichdiverter@gmail.com dulwichdiverter.tumblr.com | dulwichdiverter | dulwichdiverter dulwichdiverter |

JULY/AUGUST 2016

THE DULWICH DIVERTER


4 | NEWS

Back on track

... And don’t forget Bea’s Baby Bop, every Thursday at 10.30am!

The final phase of works to secure the future of Herne Hill Velodrome has begun. The 450-metre track was built in 1891 and has welcomed some of the world’s greatest cyclists, as well as thousands of young and aspiring riders. It was home to Crystal Palace Football Club during World War One and was used as a gun battery in World War Two. It hosted the track cycling events for the 1948 Olympic Games, which saw English cyclist Reg Harris take home two silver medals for Great Britain. It is the only venue from the Games that is still in operation. In the 1950s and 60s stars including five-time Tour de France winner Jacques Anquetil, Fausto Coppi and Tom Simpson visited the velodrome, and Olympic gold medallist Bradley Wiggins started racing there when he was 12. But by 2001 the iconic venue, which is celebrating its 125th birthday this year, was facing closure due to the poor condition of the surface and the dilapidated pavilion. In 2005 it shut when landlord the Dulwich Estate failed to extend the lease with Southwark Council. However, thanks to Velo Club Londres, British Cycling and cooperation from the Dulwich Estate, the site was maintained until 2010, when local residents launched a campaign to save it for future generations. The campaign grew into the Herne Hill Velodrome Trust (HHVT), a registered charity with patrons from across London and the wider sporting scene. It has already secured two of its three major objectives.

First, the track was fully refurbished in 2011 with a £500,000 grant from British Cycling. Second, trackside lighting, a multiuse games area and a brand new junior track were installed thanks to Southwark Council’s Olympic legacy funding. Now the original pavilion, which has been unsafe to use for many years, has been pulled down to make way for a brand new structure designed by Hopkins Architects, the firm behind the London 2012 Olympic Velodrome. HHVT signed a 99-year lease with the Dulwich Estate earlier this year, and once

the new pavilion is completed they will oversee the day-to-day operation of the track, working with the clubs who already support and use the venue. Hillary Peachey, chair of HHVT, said: “What better way to celebrate Herne Hill Velodrome’s 125th birthday this year than by starting the final phase of our ambitious project to construct a new pavilion, which will safeguard cycling here for the next 99 years.” The new pavilion will include function rooms with a viewing gallery, a bar and refreshment area, bike storage and a new

grandstand with seating. It is funded by grants from Sport England, Southwark Council, the Mayor of London and the London Marathon Charitable Trust. To celebrate the 125th anniversary of the velodrome, there will be a series of events throughout 2016 and 2017 highlighting the rich history of the venue, which today welcomes riders aged from two to 82. A new logo has also been designed to reflect both the heritage of the site and the soon-to-be completed modern facilities and offering. The pavilion is expected to be finished early next year.

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NEWS | 5

Final chapter for bookshop owner A veteran bookseller is swapping Dulwich for Devon after 20 years in business. Julian Toland took over Village Books on Calton Avenue in 1996 with former colleague Hazel Broadfoot. He will hang up his hat in September and Broadfoot will continue to run the shop. Toland began his career in 1970 at Caravel Press, a small bookshop on Marylebone High Street, and joined Hatchards on Piccadilly two years later. He was one of eight people who set up Waterstones in 1982 and co-managed the company’s first shop on Old Brompton Road. He went on to open Waterstones branches on Charing Cross Road and High Street Kensington before moving to head office and becoming a director. He launched the Bath branch in 1988 and left the company in 1994. A year later he and fellow ex-Waterstones director Broadfoot decided to open a bookshop of their own and bought the lease for Village Books in 1996 from the previous owner, who was moving to the country. The property has been a bookshop since it was built in 1925. “The industry has changed monumentally over the last 46 years,” Toland said. “Independent bookshops have had to adapt and provide something Amazon can’t. They have to offer a personal service that people can’t get on the internet. “There’s not a lot of passing trade in Dulwich Village, but we have lots of regular customers who come back over and over again. We get to know their likes and dislikes

and we cater accordingly.” Village Books has about 6,000 titles in stock and an excellent children’s section. “We were quite lucky because soon after we opened the whole Harry Potter phenomenon took off,” Toland said. “We were able to ride that wave if you like.” While doom-mongers predicted that ebooks would kill off print, Toland said this has failed to materialise. “A lot of people still like the physical book, thank God. They’re beautiful objects and reading a book is different from reading online – it’s a more sensory experience.” Village Books is known for its events and hires nearby Alleyn’s theatre to host author talks and cookery demonstrations. Notable guests have included Michael Palin, Mary Berry and Yotam Ottolenghi. Toland’s last day in the shop will be at the end of September, when he and Broadfoot will celebrate 20 years at Village Books. “We’ll have a party and that will be that as far as I’m concerned,” he said. The Nunhead resident and his wife Lizzie are moving to Devon next year. Asked what he’ll miss the most about Village Books, Toland said: “I’ll miss the people I work with and I’ll miss serving the customers, because that’s one of the greatest joys of the job.” One aspect of retirement the 66-year-old will relish, however, is the chance to read more books. “I read a lot of fiction, biography and crime fiction,” he said. “But I’ve got a lot of books that I haven’t read yet and I’m looking forward to that.”

The Bigger Picture Film Club M O N T H LY

F I L M S

Fear Eats the Soul

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Smiles of a Summer Night

Thursday 18 August 2016 (1955) Sweden Cert. PG 108 mins Director/Writer Ingmar Bergman An exquisite romantic comedy in which six individuals find love during an endless summer night. The film is about infidelity and desire in the early 1900s and ushered Bergman onto the international scene.

7pm Bar, themed snacks 8pm Film Free raffle prize courtesy of Rye Books Tickets £7 Available in person from: EDT, 1 Lordship Lane; Or online from: WeGotTickets Upstairs at East Dulwich Tavern, 1 Lordship Lane, SE22 www.thebiggerpic.co.uk

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6 | NEWS

Revelry on Ryedale A bake-off judged by local café Norris and Knight was a highlight of the Ryedale summer party last month. The event, one of a string of summer street parties held across Dulwich, celebrated the 90th birthdays of two national treasures: the Queen and David Attenborough. It also featured a fire engine, fancy dress, bunting and a barbecue. The party brought together residents young and old including the Stock family, three generations of whom live in East Dulwich. Ryedale residents Jackie and John Stock are pictured left with their children and grandchildren.

Fine fare

Plans for new cycle route on pause

Farmers, fishmongers, bakers and cheesemakers are plying their trade at a new weekly food market in Dulwich. The Dulwich Village farmers’ market is organised by London Farmers Markets (LFM), who have been running similar events in the capital since 1999. It takes place on Saturdays from 10am-2pm in the Dulwich Village C of E Infants’ School playground on Turney Road. Traders are made up of independent producers including farmers, fishermen, bakers, fruiterers, cheese and pie makers and plant growers. Stallholders must grow, rear or produce everything they sell within 100 miles of the M25. Many are based within half that distance, in Kent, Surrey and Hertfordshire, and the market also welcomes local and community growers. LFM’s Cheryl Cohen said: “The Dulwich Village farmers’ market will provide a community hub, a place to shop, meet, greet, taste and swap recipes every Saturday.” She said it could potentially host family days, cooking events and Punch and Judy shows. The market is running under permitted development rules that allow 14 sales a year on private land. LFM have submitted a planning application to Southwark Council to make the event a permanent fixture.

Campaigners objecting to Southwark’s plans for the Dulwich section of Quietway 7 have welcomed calls by Dulwich Community Council to pause the process. Quietways were introduced by the last London mayor, Boris Johnson. They are meant to be a network of bike routes for less confident cyclists, located on back streets with low levels of traffic. But according to local residents, some of the busiest roads in the area – including Calton Avenue and Turney Road – have been chosen for the Dulwich part of Quietway 7, which will run from Elephant and Castle to Crystal Palace. Crispin Southgate, chair of the Calton Avenue Residents’ Association, said: “About 10,000 children make their way through Dulwich at peak times during school terms. On a typical morning the traffic is so bad on our road, with nose-to-tail cars and coaches, that cyclists have to use the pavements.”

Turney Road is also a busy street, with two schools and two nurseries. “The new controlled parking zone at North Dulwich has had a knock-on effect,” said Sue Badman from the Turney Road Residents’ Association. “There are far more cars on the road than there used to be. We all support safe cycling, but we just couldn’t see how the proposals were going to work.” While plans for a new segregated cycle lane at the Dulwich Village junction have received support, campaigners expressed concerns about the removal of guard rails and a change of priority that could push traffic on to minor roads, making them less safe for cyclists and pedestrians. Following representations at June’s community council meeting from residents, Southwark Cyclists, Dulwich and Herne Hill Safe Routes to School

To watch a local resident’s clip of busy traffic on Calton Avenue, go to tiny.cc/ calton

Making merry Leading amateur theatre group the Dulwich Players will perform Shakespeare comedy The Merry Wives of Windsor in Dulwich Park this summer. The play sees buffoonish knight Sir John Falstaff arrive in Windsor short on cash. Keen to swell his dwindling coffers, he decides to seduce two wealthy married women. When a jealous husband, a host of hapless suitors seeking the hand of a local maiden and a hilarious incident involving a tub of dirty laundry are thrown into the mix, mayhem quickly ensues.

Toy shop turns three Darth Vader ditched the dark side to help a Dulwich toy shop celebrate three years in business. Rosendale Road shop Wigwam sells toys, games, gifts and clothes for children and babies. Owner Katharine Spence, pictured above, dreamed of running a toy shop as a child and she opened Wigwam in June 2013.

THE DULWICH DIVERTER

and local MP Helen Hayes, councillors recommended a pause in the process while the key issues are properly considered. They called for no further action on the Quietway 7 proposals until a study is completed into alternative routes for school coaches for Alleyn’s, JAGS and Dulwich College, which all use the proposed Quietway. They also suggested a trial for the changes to the junction. The final decision for Quietway 7 rests with Southwark councillor Ian Wingfield. He said he has received hundreds of emails about the scheme and will continue to listen to all views put forward over the next few weeks. Contact him on ian.wingfield@southwark.gov.uk.

The shop held a party last month with colouring competitions, craft and cake for children, who dressed up as their favourite Star Wars characters. Spence said she was “delighted” to be celebrating three years in business, adding: “Thanks to everyone for their continued support.”

July 12 and 13, 2pm and 5pm in the American Garden, Dulwich Park. Tickets £8 (seating is on the grass but guests are welcome to bring a chair). To book, call 07936 531356, email boxoffice@dulwichplayers.org or buy from the Art Stationers, 31 Dulwich Village.

JULY/AUGUST 2016


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8 | DULWICH PEOPLE

Pioneering pictures CHRIS STEELE-PERKINS’ REMARKABLE PHOTOGRAPHS DEPICT DAILY LIFE IN BRITAIN AND BEYOND. WE MEET HIM AT HIS EAST DULWICH HOME BY JESSICA CARGILL THOMPSON

To flick through the portfolio of photographer Chris Steele-Perkins is to be invited into the lives of strangers from across the globe – from the 1970s to the present day – and to feel an instant connection with all of them. During his 45-year career, Chris, a member of the prestigious Magnum international photography collective, has presented a rare and compassionate insight into everyday life in countries such as Burma, South Africa, Bangladesh, China and Japan. He has reported from the front line during the battle for Beirut in 1982, and depicted people’s daily lives in Afghanistan in the mid-90s, when the Taliban were consolidating their power. Closer to home, he’s documented the peculiarities of English tribes, exposed austerity and urban deprivation, explored life on an aristocratic country estate, and met some of Britain’s 10,000 centenarians. He’s also encapsulated 1980s England in his book The Pleasure

THE DULWICH DIVERTER

Principle, which includes a hastily snapped then-prime minister Margaret Thatcher as she and her ruddy-cheeked entourage fight their way through the press scrum. Although Chris’s images are arresting and their subjects fascinating, his intention is not to shock, or to romanticise situations, but to show people’s lives as they truly are. In his 1979 book The Teds, immaculately bequiffed youths flaunt their highly stylised dress sense and their rockabilly dancing, while projecting a frisson of menace as they stare deep into the camera lens. It was this series of striking black and white images that first brought Chris attention as a photographer, and it’s about to be republished for the second time this September. “My work really falls into two halves,” Chris explains over a quiet cup of coffee in his modest home and studio behind East Dulwich Station. “The first is England; the second is the rest of the world.

“For me, photography is about exploring the things I don’t know. There’s plenty to find out about England, and obviously even more to discover about the rest of the world.” Chris’s own experiences have placed him somewhere between the foreign and the familiar, the exotic and the conventional – and it’s a position that has afforded him a unique vantage point. Born in Burma in 1947, he was brought up in a small seaside town in Somerset from the age of two by his English father. He spent his childhood thinking he was “the only person who looked like me” and suffering playground taunts. This search for identity from an early age has fuelled much of his lifelong quest to get to the heart of what it is to be “English”; or at least to ascertain where he fits into the picture. “I suppose this enquiry into being English was something that I just kept on doing,” he says, “sometimes by taking on a small element of culture

PICTURED ABOVE: CHRIS’S FAMILY PORTRAIT FOR HIS LONDONERS PROJECT

LONDON IS ALMOST ITS OWN CITY STATE

and sometimes by taking a broader sweep of things.” Chris’s current project celebrates London’s identity, specifically its 21st century multicultural makeup. He is aiming to photograph a London family or couple from every country in the world – no mean feat considering there are almost 200 of them. Now just over halfway through, with what he estimates to be a year and a half to go, he has shot Norwegians in national dress, Palestinian architects, music-making Serbians, and more. Some are quietly contemplative studies, while others depict riotous scenes where the whole extended family has piled in – with relatives spanning several nationalities. It’s an evocative statement about what it means to be a modern-day Londoner. “Many of the people I’ve photographed have lived in other parts of the country where they don’t feel comfortable, but coming to London, they’ve said they can relax,” Chris says. “London is special. It’s almost its

JULY/AUGUST 2016


DULWICH PEOPLE | 9

own city state, really. The proportion of immigrants here is obviously higher than any other area in the UK, but what I take away from that is, it works.” Proud of his own heritage, Chris chose himself to represent Burma in the series. In the photograph he is positioned in a doorway at the rear of the shot, outside the family group but also a focal point of it. His Japanese wife Miyako Yamada sits in the foreground, with a small framed photo of his Burmese mother, Mary, subtly placed on the table. When it comes to his photography abroad, Chris describes his work as “a bit like being a junkie. There are places that give you a fix, if you like. They’re the ones you have to go back to.” Among his current legal highs is China, a country that he’s now visited several times. “China’s at a really interesting place right now,” he says. “It’s on that cusp of moving into a more open, accessible society and the development of a middle class with different values from communist state values. There’s a great buzz there.” In particular he’s fascinated by China’s 15-year masterplan to win the World Cup, starting at grassroots level and building the world’s biggest football academy just outside Guangzhou. In July he plans to visit the academy, with a view to capturing

JULY/AUGUST 2016

and documenting this new cultural movement in its embryonic stages. While some people might argue that a photographer’s role is to observe, Chris’s natural affability and genuine curiosity push him to go beyond the image. “Generally I want to know a bit more about people’s lives, I want to find out how they live – maybe go into people’s homes,” he says. “For me, you’re a photographer because you’re curious about things; it doesn’t stop with what people look like.” Chris’s career has included several trips to Afghanistan, initially reporting on the war in the 90s for Médecins Sans Frontières, but then finding he wanted to know more about the country. “I went around the rural areas with an old Russian jeep and a driver,” he recalls. “We’d sleep on people’s floors and just eat whatever we could. I knew that if I was going to get the sort of picture of Afghanistan that I had in my mind, then that was where the focus had to go.” His relationship with war zones, however, came to an abrupt halt. “I remember being in Afghanistan – in 1998, I think – and being chased by the Taliban north of Kabul with an RPG [rocket propelled grenade]. “I could hear it coming and it landed about three metres away from me.

I was with another photographer. We both hit the ground and lay down. It didn’t go off. Then we both got up and started running again. “We got away, but I thought to myself, ‘I don’t need this any longer.’ I had a couple of kids who were then around 10 or 12 years old. So I made a promise to myself, and to them, that I wasn’t going to do that anymore. “I never was a conflict photographer per se; it was something that I dipped in and out of. I could get on a plane, go home, have a glass of wine in the garden, but the people you’ve photographed, they can’t.” Chris moved to East Dulwich 19 years ago from Brixton. He treasures the abundance of open space here, particularly Dulwich Park’s American Garden: “At this time of year, the rhododendrons are magnificent.” He also enjoys the variety of shops and services on Lordship Lane, although he finds it “a pity that one or two of the pubs didn’t stay pub pubs”. The biggest change he’s seen in the area though, and one that gets this hitherto mild-mannered gent quite animated, is the prohibitive house prices and the creeping homogeneity that results. He talks of neighbours who have lived on his road a long time – people who could never afford to move into

PICTURED ABOVE: THE TEDS, BLACKPOOL BEACH (1982), AFGHANISTAN WITH THE TALIBAN, MARGARET THATCHER (1985)

I WAS CHASED BY THE TALIBAN WITH A GRENADE

the street now, and who he thinks will inevitably be replaced by loft-adders and knockers-through when they eventually move away. “You want a pluralistic mixture, not people divided by economic differences,” he says. With such a wide-ranging body of work, which book or project to date is he most proud of? “That’s like asking who’s your favourite child,” he says. “The Teds was my first book, so I’ve got a particular affection for that. And the first book I did on Japan [Fuji] is also special for different reasons – my wife’s Japanese and I wanted to find out more about where she’s from. It’s the most poetic book I’ve done.” In the meantime, he’s packing for China, chasing the world in London, and always on the hunt for the next photographic buzz. Luckily on this big and ever-changing planet, there will never be a shortage of those. If you’re a family or a couple who would like to be photographed for Chris’s current project, email him at newbritish21stcentury@gmail.com. View the series so far (and which nationalities he has already covered) at tiny.cc/londonfamilies. All those taking part receive a free signed photograph. The Teds will be reprinted in September. £15.99, Dewi Lewis Publishing.

THE DULWICH DIVERTER


10 | FOOTBALL

A manager for all seasons WITH THE NEW FOOTBALL SEASON BEGINNING IN AUGUST, WE MEET DULWICH HAMLET MANAGER GAVIN ROSE TO FIND OUT WHAT’S IN STORE BY LUKE G WILLIAMS

Gavin Rose is the longest serving manager in Dulwich Hamlet FC’s 123-year history and, arguably, the most important and transformative. Since taking charge of the club in 2009, the Peckham-born and bred manager has masterminded a rapid expansion of the club’s community development initiatives and has overseen an impressive year-on-year increase in attendances, while also raising the club’s media profile and guiding the first team to the higher reaches of the Ryman Premier League. It is, therefore, a measure of just how far Dulwich Hamlet have come under Gavin that when The Dulwich Diverter caught up with him for a

THE DULWICH DIVERTER

pre-season chat, the straight-talking 39-year-old was candid enough to admit that the 2015-16 season, which ended in a fifth-place finish and a 3-1 play-off final defeat at the hands of East Thurrock United, was a “disappointment”. “I felt that we had built a good squad, a very experienced and capable squad,” Gavin explains. “So the fact that we didn’t get as much consistency as last year was a disappointment. “As a management team we weren’t able to galvanise the boys to get as much consistency as I thought they were capable of. So, yes, there’s disappointment on a personal level. “We did quite well towards the end of the season, beating some of the strongest teams in the league to get

into the play-offs. In fact we seemed to produce some of our best form of the season, although on the last day we lost to Needham. “We then played really well to a man against Bognor Regis in the play-off semi-finals – we only scored the winner in the last minute, but I thought we were the better team and deserved to win. “In the final though, we were a nonentity from my point of view. We didn’t put up a fight or a real challenge or show anyone what we were capable of as a team or as a group. So I felt we ended the season with a lot left to give. The boys will always remember the final as a regretful day I think.” With another campaign in the Ryman Premier League fast

PICTURED ABOVE: GAVIN ROSE Luke Wolagiewicz photo

approaching, and pre-season friendlies against Norwich City, Crystal Palace, Charlton Athletic and Millwall already in the diary, Gavin and his coaching team are now in the process of revamping the Hamlet squad. “We’ve had a big overhaul,” Gavin admits. “We looked at the squad as a management team and asked ourselves whether we could better how we did last season and we basically didn’t feel we could with the group we had. So we thought it was best that players who could move on to a higher level did so, and we then talked about which players were a good fit for us. We’ve talked to all the players now and have made some changes.”

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FOOTBALL | 11 Among those leaving Champion Hill are Phil Wilson, Jack Dixon, Jordan Brown, Mitchell Nelson, Damian Scannell and Danny Waldren. “Phil has been with me at the club for the best part of seven years,” Gavin says. “He’s a great guy, a great goalkeeper, who always had time for supporters and other players alike, so we wish him all the best for the future. “Jack improved us as a team with his combative style and never-saydie attitude. Another lovely guy. We couldn’t keep him on because we are going to have at least one morning training session a week next year and he’s not able to do that. Jordan and Mitchell were offered deals that we couldn’t match – so being with us has given them a platform to move on and we wish them luck. “Danny was a very good leader in our dressing room. He had a bit of an up-and-down season in terms of his form but never in terms of his attitude. I felt we weren’t able to pay him the same rate we’d been paying him. We took a risk and a gamble and we needed to get promoted to carry on paying him. It’s a similar story with Damian. All the guys who’ve moved on were good lads. It’ll be hard work if we come up against any of them next season.” Despite the changes in personnel, Gavin remains confident that a newlook Hamlet can once again challenge for promotion. “I’m always confident that we’ll be there or thereabouts,” he declares.

“It’s not easy – there’s 46 league games. There’s a lot that can go right but can also go wrong, with form and fitness. It’s our job to manage that and get to work. It’s a long year, so we can’t get too carried away about the good times, or get too down about the bad times – because we know they happen.” Despite Gavin’s frustration at missing out on a place in the National League South, he is also keen to provide some perspective, by pointing out that promotion isn’t the be-alland-end-all of how footballing success should be measured. “The job we try and do at Dulwich Hamlet, from a development point of view, isn’t just about success on the pitch,” he explains passionately. “We are a development management team – on and off the pitch. We believe that managing a football club is about cohesion – with the boardroom, with the fans and with the community. “There’s been a groundswell in attendances over the past few seasons as we’ve built a jovial atmosphere, a family environment for people to come into. We’ve got that to build on. Everyone at the club should take a lot of pride and pleasure at what’s been built at Dulwich Hamlet over the past few years.” An obvious source of pride for Gavin is the fact that Dulwich Hamlet were named Community Club of the Year at the recent National Game Awards. The club has organised a fundraising match in aid of Syrian refugees and a

clothes collection for migrants housed in refugee camps in Calais. It also runs a robust anti-homophobia campaign. However, Gavin argues that these events are merely the tip of the iceberg in terms of Dulwich Hamlet’s commitment to community and the greater good. “We’ve had a lot of publicity about some of our events, but there is far more community work that also goes on behind closed doors,” he points out. “The grassroots stuff we’ve been doing for many years makes it a very valid award. “We are now able to reach out further and further afield. In the greater scheme of things, it’s because people are coming to watch us that we are able to show our support to various bodies and people who are sometimes excluded within society. We’re trying to show that no one should be excluded – we want to use the opportunities and platform we have as a football club, because it’s the right thing to do, and it’s very rewarding as well.” The next step in Dulwich Hamlet’s evolution is undoubtedly the planned development of a new, state-ofthe-art, 4,000 capacity stadium, a project that is also proposing 155 homes (16 per cent social rented and intermediate housing) for Champion Hill. It will also deliver new leisure facilities for the local community, but most importantly of all, the structure of the project aims to ensure the club is owned by supporters and thus

OUR JOB ISN’T JUST ABOUT SUCCESS ON THE PITCH

brought out of private ownership. Local group the Friends of Green Dale, which protects and conserves Greendale Fields, are objecting to the proposals, which they say will result in the loss of green space that is an important haven for nature. The plans have received more than 470 comments, both for and against the scheme, on the council website. Gavin says: “Long term stability is important and this development delivers that. We’ve had some rocky years in recent times where it wasn’t always clear what would happen to the club, in terms of sustainability. With this development, we’re now nearing an era where sustainability looks to be within our grasp.” Gavin then issues an inspiring rallying call to Dulwich Hamlet supporters to wholeheartedly support the project. “We have a lot of support on a Saturday – that vocal support is great,” he points out. “We need our supporters to put forward positive comments about the proposals via our website and social media. Then the council will hopefully understand how important the club is to locals and supporters. It’s about voicing their opinions about how important the club is – that can only help us. “If everyone pulls together and makes sure the future of Dulwich Hamlet is at the forefront of our minds, there’s no reason why we can’t move to another level as a football club.”


12 | FRANKLINS

Food for thought EAST DULWICH RESTAURATEUR TIM SHEEHAN TELLS US WHY HE’S USING HIS CULINARY SKILLS TO COOK FOR REFUGEES IN THE CALAIS JUNGLE CAMP BY EMMA FINAMORE

“Cooking has been good to me so I thought I should do something good with it for other people,” says Tim Sheehan, owner of Franklins restaurant and farm shop. “To have a skill you can do something useful with is quite an extraordinary thing.” Tim isn’t talking about the food served up at his popular Lordship Lane restaurant, but about cooking on a far larger scale, with far greater implications: at the Jungle camp in Calais for 5,000 people at a time. Tim is one of a team of chefs who volunteers in the camp’s kitchens, feeding the refugees who are living there. He’s heading back to Calais again a few days after we meet. He tells me about the industrialscale cooking that he and his co-volunteers have to get to grips with: huge vats of food bubbling away in tents and warehouses, ready to be whisked away and delivered across the Jungle. It might sound a far cry from the Franklins kitchen in leafy East

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Dulwich, but Tim’s used to working in all sorts of environments. Hailing from Darlington in County Durham, his first job was on a farm in the school holidays and at weekends. He then became an ice cream boy, and later moved on to a cocktail bar. Catering and food is in his blood: his mum was a good cook, his grandfather was a butcher and his grandmother was a baker. He left north-east England for London in the 1980s, and remembers well the turmoil of the miners’ strike. “It was Thatcher’s Britain,” he says. “There were no jobs up there – it was chaos really.” However, finding work and affordable housing in London 30 years ago was a whole different story. “At one point I lived in a housing association place in Camden for £6 a week,” Tim recalls. “You could definitely wing it then. You could just walk into a kitchen somewhere and ask for a job. Now people have to do internships – I would never have dreamed of working for free.”

Tim ran the dining room at iconic Soho pub the French House in the 1990s with Fergus and Margot Henderson, who later opened renowned English restaurant St John in Smithfield. “That was great fun,” smiles Tim. “I worked with some amazing chefs. “I learned more there in three years than I could have learned in 10 years. None of us knew anything to start with, we were just muddling through, but we knew we wanted to cook the best food we possibly could.” Tim then opened a place of his own, renting a space at the back of an antiques shop called Franklins on Camberwell Road. The venture was named the Secret Garden Café. “You’d never have known it was there,” he explains. “When I took it over it was a sort of vegetarian food co-op, so I immediately managed to alienate the entire customer base by starting to serve meat. Then out of nowhere we got a really good review in the Independent, and suddenly we were full all the time.”

PICTURED ABOVE: TIM SHEEHAN Lima Charlie photo

IN THE 80S YOU COULD WING IT IN LONDON

The café had no bookings, staff had to let customers in through a side door, and there was a limited menu, seating in a walled rose garden and retro kitchenware. “We had a 1940s oven. How I cooked with that I do not know,” Tim laughs. Keen to open a bigger place, Tim then spent a year and a half looking for a suitable site before finally landing on Lordship Lane. He and his wife named the restaurant Franklins and it opened in 1999, with the farm shop following nine years later. “We brought the name with us from the shop on Camberwell Road. It’s also my business partner’s name, and as luck would have it the Franklin from The Canterbury Tales was also a greedy gourmand. “That was 17 years ago and it’s changed a lot around here since then. We were one of the first places in, but I can’t think of any negatives at all about the change that’s happened. It’s a nice bit of London to live in, it’s got a great feel to it.” Tim says he brought the St John spirit with him to Franklins, but that

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FRANKLINS | 13 it took a bit of time for customers to get on board. “We’ve always been very seasonal and British farm-orientated, using every bit of the animal – it was all I knew,” he says. “I was fairly fixed in what I wanted to do – I was taught a format at St John and stuck with it. I remember someone coming in when we first started and saying, ‘Have you not got any proper food?’ and I thought, ‘Well, what’s that then?’” However, it didn’t take long for Franklins to attract a loyal following, and Tim’s quality cooking hit the crest of a foodie wave: suddenly London diners were interested in the provenance of the food on their plates. Luckily, this suited Franklins, and Tim’s ethos, down to the ground. “You’ve just got to cook with the food on your doorstep, the food nearest to you is always going to taste better,” he says. “You kind of get into the swing of the seasons – so at the moment it’s peas, then it will be game, and so on. During the year you’re always looking forward to the next thing. “The other week I was walking to work through Sydenham Hill Wood and realised that elderflower was coming into season, so I started thinking about what we could do with it. “I don’t understand why everyone doesn’t cook like that – it tastes better, it’s cheaper, so you can keep your prices down, and arguably it’s

ecologically ethical and sustainable.” The Franklins team make everything from scratch, including bread and even crackers for the ice cream. They are passionate about using fresh local produce in the restaurant and the shop. They’ve got a “salad guy” from Sidcup, for example, and they’re increasingly sourcing produce from small market gardens. “We have a guy in Kent who does the best asparagus we’ve ever had,” Tim says. Tim cites a range of places where he loves to eat when he’s not in his own kitchen, including the Clove Club in Shoreditch Town Hall, which uses “often overlooked” British ingredients and produce. But it’s not just British food that gets his tastebuds going. Modern European restaurant Piquet in Fitzrovia is another favourite spot, as are Peckham’s Miss Tapas and Italian eaterie Il Giardino. “I love family places like that,” he says. Tim’s bugbear when it comes to eating out is snobby, patronising service. “You’re meant to make people feel comfortable. It’s got to be nice and relaxing. Going out should be an enjoyable experience, you’re not going to school to be educated.” This back-to-basics, no nonsense approach is what led Tim to volunteer in Calais. “It seemed better to do something practical rather than send in your 50 quid on Red Nose Day,” he says. “It’s non-hierarchical, non profitmaking. I saw on Twitter that a couple

of chefs were looking for people to help out, so I just went down there and cooked. Everything is donated, so you’ve got to cook with anything that’s there. “You get weird stuff sometimes. Someone donated half a tonne of marzipan, so we turned that into sweets for the kids. Everyone living there is offered a main, a vegetable side dish and a dessert every day. “It’s all vegan, so there are no food hygiene issues and you know that everyone can eat it – it’s just straightforward. I thought it would be gruelling but it’s quite uplifting.” It sounds like Tim’s experience in the camp has changed the way he looks at food; what it means to cook for others and the symbolism of eating together. “There are some people there who don’t want the cooked food,” he says. “They use the food parcels to do their cooking themselves, and there’s a real dignity in that. “Everybody’s got a harrowing story to tell, but people want to show you their home and make you tea and feed you. It doesn’t matter what your religion is, or your ethnic background. A bowl of food is the great leveller.” Despite their plight and hardship in the camp, the refugees have created a growing number of ways to come together and break bread. Restaurants are cropping up, including one that was recently reviewed by The Times critic AA Gill. There are other shops and services

A BOWL OF FOOD IS THE GREAT LEVELLER

too. “There’s a main street running through with barbers and cobblers,” says Tim. “There’s a Somalian doctor, an Eritrean dentist, places of worship and lawyers to help people with applications.” The experience has also reaffirmed Tim’s conviction that more needs to be done to help the refugees. “These people come from all over the world, from all sorts of horrendous situations,” he says. “But a community forms and they’ve got a lot of hope. They have a belief that they’re going to improve their lives. It’s hard to talk about without getting angry because there’s no political will to sort it out.” Tim describes the plight of the lone children of the camp, likening their experiences to the trauma of his mother’s generation who were evacuated from their homes during World War Two. And he recalls another mass migration in the 19th century, when his father’s side of the family came to England from Cork during the Irish Potato Famine of 1845-52. “They call it the ‘Spud Famine’, but what they really mean is, ‘the English threw us out on the street and tried to starve us to death’,” Tim says. “That was only three generations ago.” While the Calais refugees of today wait to see how many generations it will take to rebuild their own lives, here’s hoping that with people like Tim around, at least they won’t go hungry.

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14 | COMMUNITY

Heavenly harmonies EAST DULWICH RESIDENT XENIA DAVIS FOUNDED COMMUNITY CHOIR PECKHAM RYE SINGS A YEAR AGO. WE JOIN HER FOR REHEARSAL BY ELIZABETH RUST

Xenia Davis may have just flown back to London on a red-eye flight from Vietnam, but you wouldn’t know it from her infectious energy. The East Dulwich resident is the founder and leader of Peckham Rye Sings, a community choir who come together every Monday evening to sing folk, gospel and pop songs from around the world. Xenia wasn’t sure how successful the choir would be when she launched it, but this is the group’s first anniversary – and judging by the tea and cakes that the 35 singers have brought in to celebrate, it’s clear she has formed a special bond with them. Technical musicians may find the learning approach at Peckham Rye Sings unfamiliar. The group is a natural voice choir that is taught by ear, and no sheet music or musical terms are used. Xenia is part of a natural voice practitioners’ network, who believe in an inclusive way of learning. She doesn’t put pressure on the group to be technically perfect. “The only reason we’re here is to make music and enjoy it,” she explains. “When I’m teaching I don’t use words like ‘right’ or ‘wrong’. If you take the pressure off, it usually clicks into place. That’s not a criticism of groups who are very accurate. There are different ways of doing things.” Xenia played the clarinet at school

THE DULWICH DIVERTER

but she didn’t identify herself as musical. She certainly would never sing out loud on her own. But when she discovered natural voice choirs six years ago at a festival, it was a Eureka moment. “The songs were taught by ear and it was quick to pick up. It blew my mind,” she says. “The harmonies were wonderful even though we weren’t proper singers. I thought, ‘Does this style of singing exist outside a festival?’” When she got home, she joined a choir in east London. “I got so much joy out of it that I had to go every week,” she says. “Even if I was stressed, because it was taught by ear, it means you have to be very present and in the moment.” Xenia’s workplace got wind of her extracurricular singing and asked her to start a choir with her colleagues. When she moved to another job, they heard about her work choir, and asked her to set one up there too. Then two and a half years ago, she was asked to lead community choir Sing Out Streatham. She realised she wanted to lead choirs as a career and decided to launch one in her own area. She prepared herself for a tough slog to get a large enough group together, using social media to advertise the choir. To her surprise, it went really well. “People just kept joining,” she says. “They’ve been very committed and it’s quite sociable.”

Tony, a music therapist, agrees. “The social side is really good,” he says. “Everyone goes to the pub afterwards, which is great.” Cate is a civil servant and moved to London from the north of England in September. She joined the choir to meet people locally. “An area isn’t home until you bump into people you know,” she says. “And I usually do on a Sunday when I go to Sainsbury’s.” Peter is a retired chef who has lived in the area for 33 years. “The songs are very easy to pick up,” he says. “It relaxes me, and takes all the tension away.” Peter’s son has also joined. “He’s a chorister at Southwark Cathedral – a proper singer.” There’s also Marianne who works in marketing, Laura a teacher, Helen an upholsterer and Emma, a social worker. They all agree that the choir is a good way to chill out – a sentiment that is backed up by academics. A recent study published by Oxford Brookes University suggests that being part of a group gives choral singers a higher sense of wellbeing than pursuing an activity individually. BBC television programme The Choir also aims to raise awareness of singing with a group. Choirmaster Gareth Malone works with people who have little singing experience to form a group with a final performance at a grand venue. But Xenia admits that for her, the most recent programme was too

PICTURED ABOVE: XENIA DAVIS AND PECKHAM RYE SINGS

WE’RE HERE TO MAKE MUSIC AND ENJOY IT

similar to The X Factor in its approach. “That is unhelpful for me,” she says. “It encourages viewers to be very critical of anything that isn’t brilliant.” Peckham Rye Sings have performed at events such as Pexmas Christmas market and the Southbank Centre’s chorus festival. In between rehearsals members keep in touch using WhatsApp. This evening Xenia is introducing them to Gershwin’s Summertime, which they will be performing at a local street party. She asks everyone to choose what part they want to sing: soprano, alto, baritone or bass. The rehearsal ends with Hlonolofatsa, a traditional song from Lesotho. This is a piece the group have sung before. Everyone knows the words, and soon the room is filled with a tapestry of wonderful harmonies. When the song finishes, Xenia puts her hands down. The powerful tone of the room quietens. There’s a small clap from the group. Everyone takes a deep breath, subconsciously, perhaps, and with that the room subsides into a sense of calm. Peckham Rye Sings runs drop-in rehearsals at the Copleston Centre, Copleston Road, on Monday evenings from 7.30-9pm. The first session is free and it costs £6 (£4 concessions) thereafter. To join the choir, contact Xenia on xenia@naturalvoice.net or 07833 670266.

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16 | DULWICH IN PICTURES

THE DULWICH DIVERTER

JULY/AUGUST 2016


DULWICH IN PICTURES | 17

More than just a market WORDS BY SEAMUS HASSON PHOTOS BY LIMA CHARLIE

The Saturday market on North Cross Road offers an eclectic mix of stalls selling everything from healing crystals to popcorn. There are food stands, antiques, vintage jewellery, holistic goods, vinyl records, organic ground coffee, children’s clothing and adult fashions. And then there are the traders themselves, the people who turn up every week to make the market such a unique experience. There is an evident sense of community among them and they enjoy a special bond with the customers. Alison Rose, who runs women’s clothing stall Cielo, says: “I’ve had stalls in markets all over London, but this is by far the best atmosphere I have worked in. It’s just a really fab and relaxed, friendly market.” Pie in the Skyz proprietor Zandra Palmer is originally from New Zealand but moved to London 26 years ago.

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She has worked on the market for nine years and makes all her food from scratch, including free range pork sausage rolls, scotch eggs and pies. “The support we have had from the local business community here has been excellent,” she says. “The Fresh Flower Company in particular have been a major help, even allowing me to use their electricity in the early days.” Dogfather Diner – a “vintage pop-up diner” – has been a fixture at the market for the past three years. “It’s a community thing,” explains owner Joan Cole, who hails from Atlanta. “Even during the week people stop me on the street and ask how I’m doing.” Martha Van Bakel runs the stall for Pasta Di Grazia, which imports fresh artisanal pasta straight from Italy, while next door, Brandy Carpenter from Blackwoods Cheese Company sells raw milk soft cow’s cheese handmade in Brockley along with guest cheeses from Neal’s Yard Dairy.

The market attracts traders from a rich variety of backgrounds. Hatty Lee owns Mrs Benn, a vintage secondhand children’s clothes stall. She used to be a teacher at Camberwell College of Arts but left two years ago as the market gives her more flexibility. Some have been at the market for the best part of two decades, like Tony Couse, who runs a vintage furniture stall with the help of his family. Fishmonger Geoff Bowman has been on North Cross Road for 35 years. By contrast Emily Price, who owns Amelie, a vintage-inspired clothes stall, arrived here just four weeks ago. She has started trading to help fund her art studio at the Bussey Building in Peckham. Before I leave, I speak to Dzidzia Schweizer, who runs a jewellery stall. She plans to leave the market after 15 years and relocate to the coast for health reasons. She says: “I’ll miss the ambience and the banter with the customers and traders. It’s been wonderful here.”

THE DULWICH DIVERTER


18 | DULWICH IN PICTURES

THE DULWICH DIVERTER

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20 | CHARITY

Forming friendships LINK AGE SOUTHWARK’S WORK TACKLING LONELINESS AMONG THE ELDERLY IS VITAL – BUT WITH AN EVER-GROWING WAITING LIST, IT NEEDS YOUR HELP BY KATE WHITE

Tucked away in a wing of Dulwich Community Hospital, up several flights of stairs, is a local charity that offers a lifeline to hundreds of elderly people. Link Age Southwark (LAS) was founded in 1993 by Peckham resident Ted Salmon, with a mission to alleviate loneliness and isolation among older residents from the south of the borough. What began as one man and a telephone now has more than 400 volunteers and 600 clients – and demand is rising daily. “We have about 70 people on our waiting list and we can’t meet the need,” says LAS chairman Katharine St John-Brooks, when we meet for a cup of tea on a rainy Monday at the charity’s office. “We’ve experienced a real surge in demand within the last year and we’re assuming it’s because the council is having to cut back on services.” Most of those on the waiting list are looking for a befriender – a volunteer who can spare an hour or two a week to meet for a chat. The charity is desperately trying to recruit more people to help. “The volunteers who do befriending get a lot out of it,” says Katharine. “They often tell us how it has enriched

THE DULWICH DIVERTER

their lives and has given them a sense that they’re making a real difference.” More than 9,000 people aged 65-plus live alone in Southwark and the number of residents aged over 90 is set to double in the next decade. “As time goes by there are more and more elderly people and loneliness is a growing issue,” Katharine says. “It’s partly due to the fragmentation of families. Jobs can be difficult to find these days, and people often move away for work. It means more elderly people are finding themselves with no family around them. “As you age your friends begin to die off and your support mechanisms often shrink too, unless you’re someone who’s always making friends with younger people. But not everyone is a raging extrovert. “As an older person there can be a feeling that you’re sort of on the scrapheap, but actually a lot of us do massively value the elderly people in our community. They’re so interesting to talk to because they have so many stories and life experiences to share.” As well as befrienders, the charity needs volunteer drivers to transport clients to and from events. Drivers can commit to anything from one trip a year (or less) to once a week. The charity operates more than 20 regular social and activity groups in Southwark, with themes including

yoga, bridge and reminiscence. It also runs groups for people with mild to moderate dementia. As well as befriending, volunteers can help at the groups or assist with light gardening and odd jobs. The charity is also developing a telephone befriending service. LAS clients have an average age of 83, but a quarter are over 90 and there are several centenarians. “There’s a lot of research that shows the link between isolation and loneliness and things like depression and anxiety,” Katharine says. “It really is terribly important that we look after our elderly people. Other societies look after older people a lot better than we do. I think we have something to learn from that.” Katharine is a Dulwich Village resident whose day job is executive coaching. “I coach managers and directors within organisations to be more effective at what they do, and that’s really all about holding conversations that are richer and more purposeful,” she says. “That was partly what drew me to the charity, because it’s all about helping people form relationships and bringing friendship to people who are feeling lonely. What could be more brilliant than that?” With plans in the pipeline to redevelop the Dulwich Community

PICTURED ABOVE: LINK AGE SOUTHWARK CLIENT CELIA

ELDERLY PEOPLE HAVE SO MANY STORIES TO SHARE

Hospital site into a school and health centre, LAS, whose offices have been based there for more than a decade, is now seeking new premises. “We’ve been very lucky to have these offices at a very good rent,” Katharine says. “That does of course mean that when we move somewhere else our costs could go through the roof, but I’m hoping we’ll find somewhere affordable.” LAS receives between 35 and 40 per cent of its income from Southwark Council and the NHS, and the rest comes from various trusts and foundations, local organisations and individuals. It also holds community events to raise funds. The charity is taking on two new staff members this year, which Katharine says was a “difficult decision” financially. However, with plans to increase LAS’s number of clients from 600 to 800, it was also a necessary one. “We’re hoping to be a third bigger than we are at the moment so it’s a massive aspiration,” says Katharine, “but I’m determined that we’ll do it. There’s such a demand out there and it’s not going away.” To volunteer with Link Age Southwark or to donate, call 020 8299 2623 or email info@linkagesouthwark.org. linkagesouthwark.org

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FOOD | 23

A meaty story KINGS OF THE DIRTY BURGER SCOTT COLLINS AND YIANNI PAPOUTSIS ARE OPENING A NEW DINER ON LORDSHIP LANE. WE FIND OUT MORE BY HELEN GRAVES

I remember very clearly the moment I first tasted the green chilli cheeseburger that would end up on the menu at every MeatLiquor restaurant. It was one of those defining food moments that stick with you, and I couldn’t believe how a simple arrangement of ingredients, one I’d had many times before, could suddenly taste so good. I knew I was on to something special. That was back in 2009, and I was standing in the car park of an industrial estate in Peckham. A man called Yianni Papoutsis had cooked the burger in front of me in a tiny van, flipping meat, frying chillies in butter, toasting the bun and adding cheese, sauce and pickles. Yianni, who was then working as a technician at the English National Ballet, was about to fly out to the States to do more burger research. Neither he nor I knew that he would end up meeting Scott Collins and selling his burgers in a highly successful set of restaurants. The duo currently have eight burger joints open in the UK, one in Singapore and are working on two new London sites, one in East Croydon, the other here on Lordship Lane. I meet Scott Collins over a drink and we reminisce about the time that has passed since those early days. “I met Yianni in that industrial estate in Peckham too – I remember tasting that burger and having an epiphany,” he says. “We became pals and then we did stuff together, like the #Meateasy [a pop-up restaurant/dive bar] in New Cross. It started out in a very lovely, honest way and the whole thing just grew. It was all south-east London, born and bred.” The #Meateasy was a big deal when it opened back in 2011, creating something in south-east London that was truly unique. No one on the London food scene had done anything as edgy or as interesting as that pop-up before and people flocked there from across the capital. Scott’s background is in pubs (he’s known on Twitter as @thepubgeek) and he was opening venues in southeast London with Capital Pubs, meaning that he and Yianni were able to run burger pop-ups at various sites. Capital Pubs was bought out by Greene King around four years ago, Scott moved on, and the rest is history. I ask Scott about the Lordship Lane site, which will open in late July in the former Sea Cow premises. “There’s been a lot of talk about smaller businesses being pushed out by larger ones, moving out because of rent increases, but that’s not the case with Sea Cow,” he says. “Paul decided he

JULY/AUGUST 2016

wanted to move on to other things, and funnily enough he’s working on rolling out a burger business in the Midlands. “I’ve lived in East Dulwich for 10 years and I live and breathe it. I spend a lot of time and money locally, in Franklins, Franco Manca, Hisar, the EDT, the Palmerston and so on. The new site is 20 feet from my house, and our operations team both live in East

PICTURED ABOVE: SCOTT COLLINS AND YIANNI PAPOUTSIS

Dulwich, it’s where we have our daily meetings. We’re very involved in the area.” Even the look of the new venue is inspired by East Dulwich. “We’ve based some parts of the interior on Inside 72, for anyone who’s lived in the area long enough to remember that. It’s where Yama Momo is now,” Scott says. “Also Lawrence from Roullier White is designing the toilets

for us. We’re very much about keeping it local. “It’s a small site and so it will have a different vibe. We’ve tried to keep it kind of like a dive diner, it only seats 46 people. One of the cool bits is that I bought the original bar from the Groucho Club when it was refurbed, so that makes up the bar. It had been there 30 years and I won it at a charity auction. If that bar top could talk…” So what will be on the menu at MeatLiquor ED? “We always open with a menu and then see what sells, and we just keep tweaking,” Scott says. “Every six weeks now we put on a set of part-timers, which are six new dishes that sit alongside the original menu. “For example coming up this Monday we’ve got a Chicago-style hot dog, which is really summery: a beef frank with spears of gherkin, New York relish, some cherry tomatoes, white onion, ketchup, mustard – it’s really zingy. We’re doing some lighter dishes for summer.” Yianni’s technique is what makes MeatLiquor’s burgers taste so good, Scott says. “He’s honed it over many years, way before he even started selling them to the public. Then it’s our attention to detail, and just not taking our eye off the ball. “People out there might use the best meat, the best buns, but you still have to know how to cook the meat, how to handle the buns and so on. We do everything in a very labour intensive way.” So how has Scott seen East Dulwich change over the years? “It’s obviously incredibly gentrified now, but it’s still very, very cool. There’s still a great mix of different people here.” The new restaurant will be childfriendly, he says. “Children are welcome at all our sites as long as they’re well behaved. We even get families in the original [Bond Street] MeatLiquor, which is the loudest and the darkest. There will be a pram store outside the new East Dulwich site.” It’s an exciting step for a business that germinated in south-east London, has travelled as far as Singapore, and has now returned to where it all started. “We’re hoping we can bring a bit of fun back to the area,” Scott says. “There’s been this seismic shift towards Peckham, where everyone tends to drink now, and some of the retailers around here have said how it will be good to draw a different demographic into the area.” I for one can’t wait. There’s a spirit about the MeatLiquor restaurants that has as much to do with the people as the food, and that’s what will make this site so special. Yianni and Scott really care about East Dulwich and that, combined with some of the best goddamn burgers in London, is going to be a killer combination.

THE DULWICH DIVERTER


24 | LAUNCH

Party people PHOTOS BY WILLIAM HARTLEY

The Dulwich Diverter officially launched on May 5 with a party at Roullier White on Lordship Lane. As some readers will know, the paper’s start-up costs were crowdfunded by 150 generous backers on Kickstarter and it was great to meet so many of them on the night. Thanks to Lawrence, owner of Roullier White, for allowing us to use the lovely garden at the back of his shop; to local caterer Suzanne James, who supplied the delicious food and drink; and last but not least, to everyone who came along and made it such a fantastic evening.

THE DULWICH DIVERTER

JULY/AUGUST 2016


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ELIA OLIVE OIL AND GREEK PRODUCTS

Delicious organic olive oil, honey, olives and herbs sourced from Greece and sold locally. www.eliaoliveoil.com Find us at Franklins, East Dulwich Little Village, Wandsworth West Norwood Feast Haynes Lane, Crystal Palace Lambeth Country Show

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FOR BEAUTIFUL BEER GARDENS

BRICK HOUSE BREAD CLASSES From the beginning of June, we’ll be running weekly bread classes at the bakery. ‘Sourdough in a Day’ is a hands-on workshop introducing the key principles of making & baking beautiful sourdough bread at home. The day includes making and baking 4 different styles of bread, lunch, drinks and a few key items to get your home bakery started. The classes will run on Sundays from 11am - 5.30pm, and cost £150. If you’re interested in finding out more, pop in to the bakery or e-mail sharmin@brickhousebread.com.

65 Rosendale Road, West Dulwich, SE21 8EZ 020 8761 9008

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DIVERSIONS | 27 TO THE GARDEN 1

TO THE KITCHEN 1

On the allotment BY JANE MERRICK

The weather has been even more unpredictable than normal for the UK this year. After a particularly mild week in January on my sheltered East Dulwich allotment, a thin asparagus spear shot up, confused, before shrinking away in the cold. My peach tree was full of blossom in March but those blooms were wiped out by frost in April so I won’t have any fruit this year. One crop that has been an outstanding success this season is the lettuce – it has loved the long, slow slog to summer because too much heat makes it bolt. The best varieties were Sweetheart, a cos lettuce; Amaze, an open, maroonleaved type; and Maravilla de Verano Canasta, a semi-open lettuce streaked with red. Its name roughly translates as “basket of summer wonder” and it can be sown in succession throughout the season. Now it is July I am sowing leaves for autumn and winter. The leaves from the chicory family – radicchio, escarole, endive and puntarelle – will grow late into the season in London unless there is a particularly hard frost. Radicchio is the thick, purpleleaved hearting type that can also be dug up in November, cut down to just an inch high and forced in darkness into bright yellow chicons.

Endive has a frizzy, serrated leaf, puntarelle looks like a jagged dandelion with thick shoots at its heart, while escarole has a broader, flatter habit. All of these leaves are thicker than lettuce and are therefore better for cooking. Leaves from the chicory family are popular in Italy, where the winters are warmer than ours. I have bought puntarelle grown in Rome from shops in London in January. Am I too optimistic to think that, 1,100 miles north in East Dulwich, I can harvest my own next winter? Perhaps with the help of my plot neighbour, Maurizio, who has kindly shared this recipe for puntarelle alla romana from his home country: Take one head of puntarelle, chop it lengthways and plunge it into water and ice, with optional lemon juice according to taste, for one hour. This will remove some of the bitterness and make the leaves crunchy. In a bowl, crush one garlic clove into a paste, then combine with four or five thinly sliced and mashed anchovy fillets, 10ml of white wine vinegar and 30ml of olive oil. When ready, drain and dry the puntarelle and cover with the garlic and anchovy dressing. Jane tweets from @janemerrick23. For more on her allotment, go to www.heroutdoors.uk

Chard and ricotta cannelloni INGREDIENTS (SERVES FOUR)

Pasta dough 375g pasta flour (type 00) 125g semolina flour 6 whole eggs Pinch of salt Cannelloni filling 500g ricotta cheese 80g grated Lincolnshire poacher (or a strong cheddar/ parmesan) 1 tsp sea salt 1 tsp cracked black pepper 1 head rainbow chard/Swiss chard 1 clove garlic, finely chopped Cheese sauce 45g butter 55g plain flour 650ml milk ¼ onion, chopped 1 bay leaf 4 cloves Pinch of salt and pepper 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 90g grated Lincolnshire poacher Illustration by Jessica Kendrew

JULY/AUGUST 2016

BY JAMES DONNELLY

At The Palmerston we strive to adapt and update our menu constantly to offer beautiful, fresh and tasty food that is made with in-season ingredients. This recipe for rainbow chard and ricotta cannelloni with English asparagus and Lincolnshire poacher is an easy but delicious way to use very seasonal produce. METHOD

Pasta

Make your pasta the day before if you have time. If not then an hour or two before will suffice. If you're really pushed for time, buy some fresh pasta sheets. Place the flour in a bowl. Make a well in the centre and crack the eggs into it. Beat the eggs with a fork until smooth. Using the tips of your fingers, mix the eggs with the flour, incorporating a little at a time until everything is combined. Knead the dough until smooth, then wrap it in cling film and leave to rest in the fridge overnight or for a minimum of one hour. Once it has rested, roll it out as thinly as possible on a floured surface and cut into rectangles. Drop it into boiling salted water for two minutes and then into ice water. Take a sheet of pasta and at one end, place two heaped tablespoons of the cannelloni filling and gently roll into a tube shape.

Cannelloni filling

Mix your ricotta, grated cheese and salt and pepper in a bowl. Wash the chard thoroughly, chop off the root, then shred the whole chard (stalks and all). Add this into the cheese and mix well. Add the garlic and taste for seasoning.

Cheese sauce

Melt the butter in a pan on a low heat, then add the flour and cook out for five minutes stirring regularly. While this is cooking, place the milk, onion and spices into a pan and bring the milk to a simmer. Pour the milk little by little on to the flour and butter mix, stirring all the time over a low heat. Add the salt and pepper, then bring this to a slow simmer for five minutes. Add the mustard and cheese and whisk until smooth.

Method

Heat your oven to 200°C and place the rolled cannelloni into the oven on greaseproof paper. They will take around 12 minutes to turn a golden colour on top. Warm your cheese sauce and steam some lovely English asparagus for two minutes (I like mine with a bit of a crunch still) just before the pasta comes out of the oven. Put a spoonful of cheese sauce on the base of the plate, place the cannelloni on top (be careful as they will be very hot inside) and your asparagus on the side. Enjoy!

THE DULWICH DIVERTER


28 | DIVERSIONS TO THE GALLERY 1

TO THE BOOKSHOP 1

Emmanuel Philibert of Savoy, Prince of Oneglia

The Summer of Broken Stories BY JESSICA GULLIVER

Sir Anthony van Dyck Emmanuel Philibert, Viceroy of Sicily and Prince of Oneglia, summoned a 25-year-old Van Dyck to paint this portrait of himself upon his betrothal to Maria Gonzaga in 1624. Soon after the artist’s arrival in Palermo, the city was struck by the plague, which claimed the lives of most of the population. Van Dyck was not allowed to leave under quarantine laws. According to a biography of Philibert, shortly after this work was completed, the prince returned to his lodgings to find the picture had fallen face down. Philibert took it as a sign of his forthcoming death and he did die of the plague months later in August 1624, aged 36. Flemish artist Van Dyck (15991641) was the leading court painter in England. He famously depicted King Charles I exuding an air of relaxed elegance and instinctive sovereignty – a style that would inform English portrait painting for the next 150 years. Philibert's outfit in this painting still survives and is preserved in the Royal Armoury of Madrid.

Source: dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk

TO THE ARCHIVES 1

A slice of history This cake-top decoration belonged to Reg and Eileen Flavell, who met at Mechanical Cleansing Service Ltd on Burbage Road in Dulwich. The company was founded by Eileen’s father Alfred Rice in 1927 and specialised in liquid waste disposal. Reg worked there as an accountant and fell in love with the founder’s daughter, who was employed at the company as a secretary. Because the Mechanical Cleansing Service played

THE DULWICH DIVERTER

such an important part in Reg and Eileen’s courtship, they decided that the pride of its fleet – an Albion petrol gully emptier – should be represented on their wedding cake. The icing sugar model was proudly perched on the top of the cake when the couple married in July 1937 and is now stored in the archives at the Museum of London. Source: museumoflondon. org.uk. Image © Museum of London.

East Dulwich resident James Wilson’s fourth novel is a highly engaging read with a pertinent message for these uncertain times. Mark is a child living in a small English village in the late 1950s. He’s on the brink of turning 10 – double digits – and the world he inhabits is on the verge of big changes, too. World War Two has left terrible scars, while newfangled technologies – and all that comes with them – aren’t far off. When Mark stumbles upon a vagrant called Aubrey Hillyard living in the woods, it’s not clear if this man is friend or foe. Aubrey’s biggest crime, though, is that he doesn’t conform to what the other villagers deem right and proper. Witnessing them close ranks against him makes for uncomfortable reading, with parallels to today’s fear of the immigrant, the outsider. Anyone different, in fact. Wilson brilliantly conveys the innocence of the child facing very adult issues. Mark’s father suffers frequent migraines and is reticent and often absent, locked away in his study. We sense it’s the lingering horror of the war that has silenced him. But he’s also a photographer who captures the local wildlife through his lens. He is a man of quiet intelligence and a sharp observer of the smallminded villagers living around him. The novel questions how we record our history and stories. Technology is creeping into the daily lives of the villagers, heralded by the arrival of the television in Mark’s home. Aubrey Hillyard is writing his own dystopian tales, which imagine a future where mass media renders us brainless, incapable of independent thought and susceptible to noisy, persistent voices. Mark is on the verge of adulthood and has acquired his first crush on a girl. With boarding school looming and winter nights setting in, there’s a sense of change in the air, of an ending, of the unknown. A meticulously plotted novel, this is a thought-provoking read, warning against bigotry, small minds and limited futures. Heartily recommended. £12.99, Alma Books.

JULY/AUGUST 2016


Dulwich Village Farmers’ Market

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30 | DIVERSIONS TO THE PUZZLE 1 2

4

3

5

9

10

10

13

12

11

8

7

6

00

15

14

16 18

17 19

21

22

25

ALDHELM

20

28

24

23

26

27

29

TO THE HAMLET 1

Each of nine Dulwich-related answers with italicised clues refers to a 5 Down. ACROSS 1 JAMES (6) 5 ILLUMINATION (8) 9 SOFT-COVERED BOOK (9) 10 SHIMELL (5) 11 MICHAEL (8) 13 SHUT (6) 14 SLEEP (3) 15 SOLELY (4) 17 CATHERINE (4) 18 SIMMONS (4) 19 TRIBE (4) 20 GESTURE OF AGREEMENT (3) 21 REMOVE CARGO FROM (6) 23 SKATING VENUES (3,5) 25 FOLKLORE OGRE (5) 26 RELATING TO VENUS, MARS ETC (9) 28 RADIO USER (8) 29 EARLY FLIGHT (3-3)

DOWN 2 TEXAS CITY (8) 3 HUNKY MAN (8) 4 CHAFE (3) 5 ANAGRAM OF NO COOL LILAC CURL (5,10) 6 JON (7) 7 DEMAND (6,2) 8 AVARICIOUSLY (8) 12 BANISH (5) 16 LONG SPEAR (5) 17 COUNTER-ARGUMENT (8) 18 HOOKED (8) 19 SMITH (7) 22 JANE (5) 24 ANNE (5) 27 AND NOT (3)

SOLUTION ACROSS: 1 Barber, 5 Lighting, 9 Paperback, 10 Rosie, 11 Mitchell, 13 Closed, 14 Kip, 15 Only, 17 Rose, 18 Andy, 19 Clan, 20 Nod, 21, Unload, 23 Ice rinks, 25 Troll, 26 Planetary, 28 Listener, 29 Red-eye. DOWN: 2 Amarillo, 3 Beefcake, 4 Rub, 5 Local councillor, 6 Hartley, 7 Insist on, 8 Greedily, 1 2 Expel, 16 Lance, 17 Rebuttal, 18 Addicted, 19 Charlie, 22 Lyons, 24 Kirby, 27 Nor.

1

TO THE PAST 1

In 1538 Henry VIII seized control of Dulwich and sold it to London goldsmith Thomas Calton six years later for £609. Elizabethan actor and entrepreneur Edward Alleyn then bought the manor of Dulwich from Calton’s grandson Sir Francis Calton in 1605. Calton Avenue in Dulwich Village takes its name from the family, as did the old Thomas Calton School (now an adult learning centre) in nearby Peckham. Illustration by Peter Rhodes.

TO THE STREETS 1

Hussein Hegazi

IS THAT YOU, MA’AM?

Position Striker Born September 14, 1891 Egyptian national Hussein Hegazi joined Dulwich Hamlet in 1911 and was one of the first African footballers to play competitively in England. The spoilt son of a wealthy aristocrat, Hegazi was born in the Nile Delta. According to Hamlet historian Jack McInroy, he was obsessed with football from a young age. Hegazi moved to London in 1911 to study engineering and joined Dulwich Hamlet the same year. A prolific goal-scorer, he fast became a crowd favourite and was nicknamed “Nebuchadnezzar” by fans. Hegazi was soon wooed by Fulham but remained loyal to the Hamlet. He stayed with the club for three seasons before returning to Egypt in summer 1914, where he was one of the most celebrated players in the country. He later flitted between Cairo clubs Al Alhy and Zamalek – one of the fiercest derbies in the world – several times before retiring aged 40. He died in 1960 and is regarded today as the father of Egyptian football. Hussein Hegazi Street in Cairo is named in his honour. To read more about Hussein Hegazi, go to tiny.cc/hegazi. Illustration by Peter Rhodes.

THE DULWICH DIVERTER

Passers-by admire a new work of graffiti on Lordship Lane, which depicts the Queen on a hoverboard walking her corgis. It was created by street artist Catman.

JULY/AUGUST 2016


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KEEP CALM AND LET

SUZANNE JAMES CATERERS OF DISTINCTION

TAKE CARE OF IT

www.suzannejames.co.uk #canapéqueen

twitter.com/eastdulwichchef facebook.com/SuzanneJamesCatering uk.pinterest.com/canapequeen instagram.com/eastdulwichchef

Issue 2 of The Dulwich Diverter  
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