FORM THE INAUGURAL ISSUE
FORM EDITOR IN CHIEF mona ascha
EXECUTIVE EDITOR caroline long FASHION directors – kate pobuda, david kim styling director – camila vignaud, dan acquaah assistants – guillermo echarte, liz portnoy, fei chen, jamie confino, erin radley, ranaah amjadi, grace shuting PHOTOGRAPHY director – jenna gates photographers - libby busdicker, genevieve werner MARKETING director – brithny zhang assistant – emily shiau FUNDS director – reed few assistant – joanna valk LAYOUT director – hilah almog assistants – blair melocik, bean sharif-askary team - genevieve werner, courtney lang, lydia chow, christine chen, christina chen, jenn bell COPY caitlin brown jake stanley WEBMASTER karen he ART patrick yan BLOG arielle silverman CONTRIBUTING WRITERS dan acquaah, cameron mcelroy, christin martahus, jane moore, angela yun, yanyun xiao, christina chen, wonnie song, allie prater, bessie zhang MODELS jane moore, elliot johnson, paul asack, dan lasowski, michael stanley, caroline gagne, jon pipas, lauren brown, lauren budorick, caroline roberts, john kunemund SPECIAL THANKS TO RACHEL WEEKS, MIKE RYAN, LYNNE GROSSMAN, CRAZY TOWEL GUY, AND DUKE SPORTS PROMOTIONS
EXECUTIVE STAFF arielle silverman (blog director) first designer purchase: a Louis Vuitton messenger I bought at a thrift shop in San Francisco for $30 caitlin brown (copy editor) first fashion obsession: red cowboy boots. I rocked them with every outfit from ages 3 to 5 – gotta love texas
caroline long (executive editor) first successful diy: sewing a floral print circle skirt from scratch mona ascha (editor-in-chief) first designer purchase: black dior cutout high heels
karen he (webmaster) first perfume: anna sui dolly girl patrick yan (art director) first american apparel flex fleece hoodie: purple. i bought it online after i got my first part-time job paycheck in high school. now i’ve added red and flourescent orange to the collection
jenna gates (photo director) first schoolhouse purchase: gray duke zip-up hoodie hilah almog (layout director) first fashion faux pas: joining the limited too fan club blair melocik (layout assistant) first purchase at duke: rain boots
reed few (funds director) first time in cameron stadium: the january 5th game against princeton- the 65th anniversary of cameron! brithny zhang (marketing director) first time i modeled: a target commercial “sizzlin’ swimsuits for a sexy summer!” joanna valk (marketing/funds assistant) first time living in a tent as a cameron crazy
david kim (male fashion director) first designer splurge: 3.1 phillip lim boycut hunter jacket kate pobuda (female fashion director) first pair of heels: black steve madden mary-janes daniel acquaah (male styling) first designer i met: marc jacobs camila vignaud (female styling) first fashion job: being signed with ford models and styling for lf stores
FORM FORM FORM FORM
in this issue TRENDS_8 CAMPUS FASHION_12 student spotlights MARCH MADNESS_14 LOCAL FASHION_24 q&a with rachel weeks FASHION AT HOME_26 spring break steals diy INTERNATIONAL FASHION _28 je t’aime paris FASHION WEEK_30 trends designer reviews OPINION_34 collaboration overload? stay fresh FEATURE_38 online shopaholic “FIRSTS”_40 CAMPUS CANDIDS_50 LAST LOOK_51
Bonjour Duke University… How many times have you and your friends made plans for a fun night out, and ended up staying in? How many times have you planned a vacation but never actually booked the flight? How many times have you bought a book you wanted to read, but never actually read it? The answer is too many. The idea to start a fashion magazine here at Duke had always been planted in my head. It was a trivial matter that I had discussed with friends—“oh, it would be so cool if we had a fashion magazine here!” It was something I didn’t expect myself or anyone else to follow up on; just something that I wish had existed. But why not follow through? Why not pursue it further? It is a scary thought—taking on a leadership role, the potential for failure, balancing an already hectic academic schedule with extracurricular activities, among other things. However, if this was something that Duke students wanted, and if it was something that I wanted, then why not take the initiative? So here we are. After countless meetings with Caroline, approval from SOFC and DSG, 40 executive staff applications, an 8:30AM photo shoot, about one thousand e-mails, one hundred phone calls, Fashion Week, editing, layout, a blog, a website, and much more, here it is: the first issue. However, this would not have been possible if it weren’t for the fervor Duke students have for fashion. Your eagerness, intelligence, and style have helped this magazine succeed, and I thank all of you for it. I am absolutely sure that I was not the only person at Duke with the idea for a fashion magazine—I was merely the first to act upon it. So to all of our readers, the next time you make plans, buy a book, or have an idea: follow through with it. You will not regret that you did.
1. Peacock feather necklace, $19.99, ModCloth 2. Antique keyhole ring, $10, fredflare.com 3. Fedora for men, $29.50, Dillards 4. Nixon watch, $99.99, Boardco.com 5. A portion of the profits from this Ralph Lauren bag go toward Breast Cancer Research, $45, ralphlauren.com 6. This shirt is a donation for the World Wildlife Foundation, a group that seeks to promote conservation and harmony between animals and humans, $50, worldwildlife.org 7. Gap’s Product RED line contributes up to 50% of profits to help fight AIDS in Africa, $28, Gap 8. All proceeds from Brad and Angelina’s jewelry line “Asprey” go to her charity, Education Partnership for Children of Conflict, starting at $525
1. Frye boots, $395, piperlime.com 2. Fringe rodeo, $78, Urban Outfitters 3. Bean boots, $94, LLBean 4. Benyo boot, $140, Aldo 5. James Zippered Jeans by Genetic, $198, FreePeople.com 6. Slim Straight 514 Jeans, Blue Bolt, $79.50, Levis.com 7. Distressed Boyfriend Jeans, Rich and Skinny, $119, bluefly.com 8. Grey studded slim fit, $115, Armani Exchange
B O O T S
2. 3. 4.
D E N I M
FORM campus fashion
caroline roberts BY ALLIE PRATER Caroline Roberts is a Trinity sophomore majoring in Psychology with a minor in Philosophy. When she isn’t busy DIY-studding everything she owns, the Charleston, SC native loves horseback riding, tennis, painting and cooking in her spare time. With fashion idols ranging from Edie Sedgwick to Lauren Santo Domingo, Caroline, 19, says she can’t remember a time when she wasn’t interested in fashion. A: What is your favorite thing about fashion? C: Most people think of fashion as highly superficial. There’s this Oscar Wilde quote, “Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.” However, I think the visual aesthetic that we literally carry everywhere should be an extremely important thing. I think fashion is about experimenting and creating tension with contrast; I love taking something kind of ugly and try to wear it in a beautiful way. A: What was your first vintage purchase? C: I used to be obsessed with buying colored sunglasses from vintage stores.
I remember a pair of red aviators and a green pair that always looked like they were upside down. A: What was your first big fashion faux pas? C: Dressing like everyone else. Also showing too much skin and some awful makeup blunders – these are kind of ongoing problems. A: When you walk into your closet, what’s the first thing you reach for? C: My leather jacket, a short dress or men’s sweater, tights, and a pair of boots. A: How would you best describe your style? C: Schizophrenic. My best friend says I tend to look like some combination of Oliver Twist, Freddy Mercury, and a stripper. A: How do you find a balance between splurges and bargains in your outfits and purchases? C: I’m only happy buying things dirt-cheap or dropping a fair amount of cash. I’m a fan of extremes, so I’m not sure that I do achieve a balance. A: Who is your favorite designer, and why?
C: Nicolas Ghesquière [Balenciaga]. He designs an entirely different collection every season, and he’s the only designer…who consistently blows me away. Not only does he have a highbrow, experimental aesthetic, he also influences the layman market. A: What advice would you give to Duke students on fashion? C: Experiment more; I don’t think one should necessarily think about looking pretty, at least not in the traditional sense. [Fashion] has an indirect effect on your personality, not only in how others interact with you but in the way you carry yourself. People have a very reactionary way of dressing here, which is inescapable, but it should also be fun. Secondly, don’t follow trends just for the hell of it. Lastly, dress for your body; admit and accommodate when you’ve gone up or down a size. There’s no shame in it, and everyone’s happier.
vintage leopard coat, anthropologie fur chubbie, bill blass dress cut short, aldo over the knee boots, urban ear cuff
BY ALLIE PRATER When asked about his hobbies, it’s not surprising that junior John Kunemund lists “not getting enough sleep” alongside other interests like dancing, going out, and watching The Jersey Shore. An Economics-German double major from Jacksonville, FL, John also manages to find time for shopping and a fashion blog. And, if you check out his blog (http://johnscardigan.blogspot.com) you’ll see how even Mr. Rogers can be a source of fashion inspiration. A: What is your favorite thing about fashion? J: I like to think of fashion as a creative form of expression, or a way of presenting yourself as a piece of art. It may be a bit of a post-modernist view, but fashion is a spectacle, and can transform the way you feel about yourself, and how others perceive you. Unlike other forms of art, fashion really entices all of your senses. A: How would you describe your style? J: Polished, clean, and a bit offbeat. I’m really big on color coordination and wearing surprising pieces that may not make sense to everyone, but really complete the entire outfit. A: How do you balance splurges and bargains? J: Most of my clothes fall in the mid-range
in terms of cost. I’ve never been one to really bargain hunt, as I’m too lazy for that, and I don’t really like to spend too much money on one item, as I get bored with my clothes pretty easily… When I dress myself, I don’t really ever consider what the cost of each item I’m wearing is. What matters to me most is how every piece I’m wearing compliments the others. If that means it’s a $250 coat with $30 shoes or a $50 shirt, so be it. A: What’s the best bargain piece you’ve ever purchased? J: Thanks to the magic that is Gilt Group, I’ve gotten a lot of great pieces at a major discount - my favorite of them being a floral printed shirt by Marc Jacobs. A: Who is your favorite designer and why? J: Karl Lagerfeld. He, too, likes to wear his shoes one size too small because he likes the way it feels. A: What is your advice for Duke guys on fashion and choosing what to wear? J: Sweats are not meant to be worn in public and don’t wear flip-flops, your feet are gross. Stop being so damn lazy! But seriously, I think there are certain essentials that every guy need and a good gateway to wearing appropriate outfits and pieces is to buy some solid basics at J. Crew, Banana Republic, or even Ameri-
can Apparel. Once you’ve done enough shopping and put in the work, then you can start to develop your own style and become more adventurous from there. But always remember, nothing is more important than fit because baggy is not always the answer. A: What’s your favorite thing in your closet? J: My silver boots from Topman. They’re always a crowd pleaser. A: How do you think blogging contributes to the fashion world? J: Blogging has absolutely, one hundred percent, changed the fashion world. With the advent of lookbook, the sartorialist, stil-in-berlin, hel-looks, etc., people have found an outlet to express themselves and share with the rest of the world. Inspiration comes from learning from others, seeing what else is out there, and how you can learn and adapt to make things your own. Blogging is the culmination of this fantastic transfer of ideas and style.
topman boots, levi khakis, h & m shirt and peacoat
MA RC H MA DN E SS photographed by libby busdicker, jenna gates, camila vignaud
itâ€™s that time of the year again...
arm in kville, get loud in cameron
our house Duke graduate Rachel Weeks brings her School House fashion line back home to Durham
Not many recent college grads can say they’ve built a business from the ground up. Rachel Weeks, who graduated from Duke in 2007 with a major in Women’s Studies, has earned a Fulbright scholarship, traveled to Sri Lanka, established an ethical clothing brand, thrown a fashion show, and recently just launched e-commerce through her website, www.shopschoolhouse.com. Luckily for us Dukies, Rachel recently relocated her office and store to downtown Durham! With a business that hasn’t ceased expanding, Rachel Weeks and her clothing line are in high demand. Jane Moore (2012), a model for School House, sat down with Rachel Weeks to learn a little bit more about the woman behind it all. J: What would friends say is most unique about you and your personal style? R: I have a big hair obsession and have been wearing bouffants since I was in the 8th grade. J: What goes on in a typical day in the life of
Rachel Weeks? Through your hectic schedule are there any constants, or things you always do? R: No two days are the same for us right now, which is a lot of fun but also very hectic. I have a few routines that I rely on to keep me sane - working out, staying in touch with my sister, watching Mad Men or Golden Girls reruns, and exploring restaurants in Durham. J: What is the most important accessory to any outfit? R: The hair. J: When you attended Duke, what did you typically wear around campus or to class? R: I had a lot of fun with my wardrobe when I was in college, despite the lack of closet space. I was heavily into vintage – everything from 1940s hats to 1960s shift dresses – but tried to mix it up as much as I could. I always loved a theme party... J: Starting your own company takes a lot of courage. Would you say you are normally a risk-taker in life? What made you take the plunge for School House?
R: I’m not sure I’ve self-identified as a risktaker, but I am very passionate about what I do and that gives me courage. When I was on the Fulbright in Sri Lanka, I had a real moment where I realized that I would never have so little to lose by trying to do something so big. I had the opportunity to spend a year living abroad, no college debt and $20,000 from an accident I’d been in while I was an undergraduate at Duke. I could have come home and gotten a job working in Corporate Social Responsibility, or I could try to do something really big while I was still young and fearless. All that said, it has definitely been a long, difficult road, and I really just try to take it a day - sometimes an hour - at a time. I need constant inspiration, and I’m very lucky to encounter it every day. J: Do you have a favorite item in the School House line? If you had to pick, which one item best represents the School House brand? R: I have a serious crush on our varsity cardigan right now - it was a best-seller at Harvard and Yale last fall, and will be in Duke Stores sometime in April! Our hoodies represent all my favorite parts about School House: the quality of the fabric, the gold touches, the hidden pockets, all of the customization that goes into them for each and every school we design for... a lot of love goes into those babies.
R: One of the many reasons I love social entrepreneurship is that it requires you to figure out how to make money while doing good. So one of my basic goals as a CEO is to create value for our shareholders by building School House into a highly profitable business. We are also a socially responsible enterprise, however, and have a “triple bottom line” approach to the way we operate. So another goal is to make a positive impact on the developing world by creating viable economic opportunities in the garment sector. There is a constant tension there, and I love the challenges that brings.
there is no road map out there for how to live your dreams
J: Where do you see yourself (and School House) in the next 5-10 years? R: I’d love for School House to establish itself as the leading collegiate lifestyle brand in the U.S. That kind of scale will allow us to expand our living wage factory in Sri Lanka to include other facilities, and to do broader work in the field of ethical fashion. I am so inspired by all of the corners of it, from eco and environmentally friendly manufacturing to the fair trade movement. This industry has the power to change the world. Personally, I’d like to see more of the world and expand my work to the government and nonprofit sectors. J: What is your ultimate goal as an entrepreneur or as a founder of a business?
J: As a role model for young women everywhere, what is the best advice you would give to someone who is nervous or hesitant about pursuing their business and life goals? R: Starting this company has taught me more about myself and the world than I ever could have imagined. I would tell young women never to be afraid of what they don’t know. There is no road map out there for how to live your dreams, you just dive in and learn every inch of the way by making mistakes and learning from them. I’ve had so many people say “no” to me, experienced so many failures, and realized that succeeding is mostly about never giving up. Eventually, you find your path.
FORM fashion at home
spring break essentials under $55 Girls: 1_Floral Bow Front Bikini $55, TopShop. 2_French Connection Retro Inspired Sunglasses $48, Nordstrom. 3_Steve Madden ‘Saahara’ Sandal $49.95, Nordstrom. 4_BDG Boyfriend Short $48, Urban Outfitters. 5_Essie Spring Mini 4-Pack $17, Nordstrom. 6_BDG Breezy Button Down $38, Urban Outfitters Boys: 7_Toddland Shipwrecked Shorts $44, Urban Outfitters. 8_The North Face ‘Acca Dacca’ Board Shorts $48. 9_Dupont Thong $20, Fossil. 10_Berkel Aviator $10, Urban Outfitters.
the not so classic
EMPIRE TIED TANK
1. Crop the botttom to fit. 2. Cut holes in the band of the sleeves for decoration.
1. Cut off sleeves into thin straps. 2. Cut off neck. 3. Secure small pieces of fabric around the straps and tie to secure. 4. Cut neckline straight. 5. Cut slits into the back in descending size as you get to the bottom of the shirt.
1. Cut neck to fit and cut off sleeves. 2. Wrap the extra fabric around the straps in the back. Tie or sew to secure. 3. Cut the neckline and straps to fit
1. Cut neckline to fit. 2. Cut off the bottom band and cut up into the shirt 1-2 inches for each â€œfringe.â€? 3. Each fringe should be about 1/4 inch in width and vary systematically in length.
1. Cut neckline and sleeves to fit. 2. Cut 2 holes on either side of the bottoms of the sleeves. 3. Use the bottom of another shirt to thread through both holes and tie in the back to fit.
1. Cut in a straight line underneath the sleeves all the way across the shirt. 2. In the back, cut a slit in the shirt and cut upwards to make two strips that you can tie together. 3. Fold the strip over in the front and tie in the back.
white hanes tee. By: Fei Chen
FORM international fashion On many chilly weekends, I’ve wandered aimlessly around Paris, stopping frequently in the countless boutiques that bejewel the city. One secret gem is a perfumery that stocks scents named “Fat Electrician” and “Magnificent Secretions.” When I have a free afternoon, I love exploring the great vintage shops in the 4th arrondissement. Here is one of my favorite finds: a leather cross-body bag with beautiful detailing.
Party in the F-R-A? Yes, please. My favorite club, Neo, features sleek magenta and black décor, swirling lights, brilliant guest DJs, and a dance floor packed with pretty people. Here, blazers and leather jackets make beautiful dresses seem effortless, while killer accessories keep things subtly sexy.
Elizabeth and James blazer
Alexander McQueen booties
Okay, so it’s not one of my favorite places to be, but a sizeable chunk of my Parisian life is spent at school. My classes take place in what can only be described as a giant block of cement. From the industrial beige tones to the florescent lighting, it truly is a concrete jungle (where dreams are made of? Unclear as of yet). Regardless, this doesn’t discourage my classmates from looking perfectly put together at 8 am. Think less sweatpants and Uggs; more chunky knits, the skinniest of jeans, and heeled boots. Also, the rumors are true: everyone in Paris wears black (or, if they’re feeling particularly wild, gray.) I rarely don colorful pieces to class, for fear that doing so will cause my French counterparts to poke their eyeballs out.
God Save the Chic In the few months I’ve spent under the Parisian skies, I have quickly fallen in love with the city. Between the endless supply of pain au chocolat and warm espressos, the stunning architecture lining the cobblestone streets, and the occasional string quartet on the metro, what’s not to like? Paris has been stamped with many monikers - the city of lights, the city of love, and so forth - but in my mind, it’s simply a city of beauty and style. Check out a few of my favorite things to do and wear.
Fashion Week Kris Van Assche boots
I was lucky enough to receive an invite to my first couture show during Fashion week in January. I ended up wearing a derivative of the outfit shown below, with tights and a honey-colored clutch. The venue, a former convent now abandoned for several years, created a stunning juxtaposition of rustic architecture, graffiti-covered walls and couture gowns. As I expected, the people-watching was highly fulfilling. J. Crew shorts
FORM fashion week: trends
This season, an assortment of prints and graphics were wrapped, draped, and haphazardly layered with plaid, lace, fur, and florals. Household names like Diane von Furstenberg and rising star Suno pulled off this trend with elegance and grace. Prints are used from season to season, but for Fall 2010, they never looked so youthful and upbeat than when tossed together in an effortless, yet well-thought out way. Anna Sui mixed strong colors and bold medieval-inspired designs of the American arts and crafts movement with her traditional Art Nouveau style. The Mulleavy sisters, the creative force behind Rodarte, paired plaid skirts with a patchwork of fabrics and textures and paraded them down the runway in romantic, whimsical way. Designers have a message to share: Donâ€™t be afraid to mix it up.
It is a truth universally acknowledged, that women love to sparkle with rocks on their fingers and glitter on their clothes. Designers from Badgley Mischka to Reem Acra gave ladies exactly what they wanted in metallics. Any girl, from fashion-shy to flamboyant fashionista, can find happiness during the day wearing a simple Erin Fetherston bronze blazer or a Milly gem encrusted gold mini-dress. She will light the night in a Marchesa or Marc Jacobs floor-length iridescent evening gown of silver siren and satin. Even the daring among us can feel satisfied wearing full body metallic suits from designer threeasfour. The shimmering fabrics, gold sequins, tulle, and ribbons reflected in the eyes of every audience member, and Bryan Park flooded with a feeling of desire. Fall 2010 is your time to shine. COMPILED BY CHRISTINA CHEN
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
From Marc Jacobs to Vera Wang, there was fur everywhere at NYFW 2010. Countless collections featured fur as an antidote to what was largely a stark, minimalist New York season. The fur and feathers added luxury and decadence to the clean cuts that dominated the week’s runways. The houses used fur to different extents in their collections—some like Zac Posen went all out with colorful fur coats and boots while others kept it small with some trims here and there. But the fur of Fall 2010 is not your grandmother’s mink coat. All of the collections played with texture and color to create some truly unique combinations. Fur found a perfect partner in leather at Diane von Furstenberg and Elie Tahari and the unusual juxtaposition gave the collections an edgy, modern look. The bold hues of Carolina Herrera’s collection certainly neutralize any hint of mothball-mustiness you might expect from fur. So, morally questionable or unquestionably mesmerizing? I think New York would argue the latter.
Last season’s embellished shoulders have translated into oversized collars, furry boleros and sculpted shoulders for Fall 2010. Proenza Schouler, for one, had electrifying blue and purple collars on her coats and even at Marc Jacobs where the A-line reigned supreme, our focus was consistently held around the neckline with statement fur trims and shawls. Indeed, most of the drama came from fur but Derek Lam also used panelling, embroidery, chunky knits and oddly shaped lapels to draw attention to the shoulders. Donna Karan’s strong shoulders and sculpted shawl collars ensured her almost entirely black collection was as anything but monotonous and even her eveningwear featured attention-grabbing accents around the shoulderline. Badgley Mischka had a less theatrical take on the trend, with airy capes and draping around the neckline but the emphasis was no less noticeable. Experimenting with proportion can be risky, but used wisely, this trend can draw the eyes up and elongate the body. COMPILED BY WONNIE SONG
FORM fashion week: designer review
Refined gentleman meets rough and gritty mountaineer – such is the essence of the bold and eclectic Fall 2010 Menswear collection by Michael Bastian. Rendering a classic yet edgy ensemble fit for the contemporary American guy with a taste for luxury, Bastian transformed basic pieces into highly stylized silhouettes. The show featured high-low looks, integrating tailored blazers paired with destroyed jeans and flannel button ups then layered with luxe cashmere sweaters or fitted wool sport coats. Bastian focused on detailed combinations of colors, textures, and cuts: the button-down with a graphic sweater; plaid and stripes dressed up with suits of cashmere, velvet, tweed, and suede, completed by sharp suit vests and smart ties. Fitted moleskin and dress pants in every shade and wash cascaded down the runway. From the red plaid quilted hunting coat to the featherweight long-sleeve polo, from the leather bomber jacket to the doublebreasted pinstripe suit, the collection was an exhibit of contrast and flamboyance. Exquisite detailing, tailoring, and patchwork characterized nearly every article of Bastian’s otherwise simple clothing, giving his casual wear a sumptuous spin. Each model strolled down the catwalk with a pair of Doc Marten high-cut patent leather boots. Key accessories like aviator sunglasses, leather and cashmere gloves, chunky knit scarves, suspenders hung carelessly about the waist, and whimsical high-cut socks all added an element of surprise to looks. The panache of Michael Bastian’s work marks it as anything but ordinary. Sleek sophistication, coupled with bold elements and quirky vibes, furnished a collection that is both treasured and wearable. By: Yanyun Xiao
Vera Wang, notorious for her wedding gowns, took a rather dark approach for Fall 2010. “The Bride Wears Black” steered away from voluptuous white dresses in favor of sleek city wear. Wang noted inspiration from film noir and cited “non-color” as a primary theme in her collection. Black, in Wang’s non-color world, does not signify a somber tone but instead exudes sophistication, mystery, and sensuality, without revealing too much skin. Vera Wang’s fall line communicated simplicity from a distance, but don’t let her color neutrality fool you. The collection was bombarded with an eclectic assortment of fabric and visual textures that easily became the focal point of each design. The looks covered a variety of moods from playful sassy to sexy austere. Wang juxtaposed high-class formality with everyday comfort. For instance, the tuxedo jacket dressed with loose cotton pants reflected authority and ease. The slack white top with baggy pants accessorized with a tangled pearl wristlet and booty strapped platforms offered a tasteful and relaxed look. Chic and edgy numbers included a gold and silver sequined one strap halter worn with a meshlayered skirt. Black leather gloves gave the collection unity and added that extra edge to each design. Although black isn’t a new idea in fashion industry, Wang made black rise from its grave, giving the classic theme a refreshing new life.
By: Angela Yun
COLLABORATION OVERLOAD? BY CHRISTIN MARTAHUS
The economic recession has not been kind to the fashion world. Magazines, stores, and even high fashion designers such as Christian Lacroix and Yohji Yamamoto are wavering on the brink of bankruptcy. However, as detrimental as these losses might prove to be in the future, the economic crisis has also encouraged positive changes within the fashion community, in particular the increase in collaborations between high fashion designers and mainstream, commercial clothing brands. One of the best and first examples of this new fashion phenomenon can be seen at Target stores nationwide where designers such as Alexander McQueen, Rodarte, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Anna
Sui have collaborated with the superstore to produce designer inspired pieces at lower prices than their ready-to-wear or diffusion lines. Other successful collaborations this year have included Jimmy Choo and Swedish fast fashion company H&M, supermodel Kate Moss and British fast fashion company Topshop, and Italian prĂŞt-a-porter design house M Missoni with sneaker giant Converse. These collaborations are an asset to fashion lovers everywhere who admire the work of such notorious designers but are unable to shell out the substantial amount of money that their original products cost. With these partnerships, anyone can purchase their own piece of designer genius at a price that fits their budget!
However, since the Target Corporation helped to pioneer this fashion phenomenon many years ago with the creation of their GO International line, the trend has gotten a bit out of hand. I love my designer pieces as much as the next fashionista – especially when conceived by fashion gods such as Gaultier and icons such as Kate Moss – but my appreciation stems from the fact that these designers are established successes within the fashion community. They have earned their status among prêta-porter and even couture, making their pieces coveted by many but affordable to few, thus explaining the huge success surrounding their relatively inexpensive collaboration efforts. It is this success that has encouraged companies to try and attract designers wherever they can find them, unfortunately leading to some less than stellar partnerships. Take, for instance, Jane Aldridge, the 17-year-old “author” of a blog entitled “Sea of Shoes,” who posts photos of her daily outfits and attracts particular attention to her large collection of designer shoes. Over the past year or so, she has catapulted to stardom due to the apparent popularity of her blog, and in turn has been featured in Vanity Fair, and Teen Vogue. As a result, she has been commissioned to design a shoe line for Urban Outfitters and, alongside her fellow blogger and mother Judy, she is working on a collaboration with Gryphon. In my opinion, this is a
perfect example of how the collaboration trend has been taken too far. Jane Aldridge is merely a 17-year-old blogger who does happen to have an extensive designer clothing and shoe collection, but does not have a background in design. Because she lacks credentials and training, I do not believe she is worthy of comparison to actual designers such as Geren Ford, who also have collaborative lines with Urban Outfitters, or to be presented the opportunity to design for Gryphon. Collaborations like those formed with Jane Aldridge are detrimental to the fashion industry, because, much like Lindsay Lohan being appointed “artistic advisor” to Ungaro, the lack of training and talent does not result in pieces that I would ever consider buying. The fact is, being able to dress oneself does not mean one is able to dress others—something that should not be forgotten, even in the midst of economic insecurity.
“the lack of training and talent results in pieces that i would never consider buying”
S T A Y F R E S H… BYDANIELACQUAAH
While girls love giving and receiving fashion advice, the men here at Duke never have any guidance when it comes to style. Too many times I’ve walked around this campus and seen the same old black Northfaces and pair of neon Nikes—it’s time to switch it up. That’s why I’ve listed four college essentials for every alpha male on campus. Cardigans aren’t only for your grandpas and Ivy League chums, everyone is wearing them. Even your new favorite rapper Drake spits about them in his critically acclaimed mixtape So Far Gone—“Black hearts on my cardigan, at the crib tellin’ your girl that we should order in” alluding to a black on black cardigan from Japanese fashion house Comme des Garçons. You can wear them in almost any setting, so replace your blazer for a thick wool card or throw one over your favorite t-shirt.
LEVI501‘S The classic jean from the company that revolutionized denim. The 501’s are a regular straight leg jean, not too skinny but very form-fitting. These pants are truly timeless; I know people who have had the same pair for over fifteen years. When it comes to wash, try to go as dark as possible without hitting black. My first pair of 501’s was the button-fly shrink-to-fits and I wear them at least twice a week in the colder seasons. The best thing about the 501’s is that you can wear them for almost any event, from playing football (Brett Favre wears Wranglers—fail) to going out.
The v-neck might be the most versatile shirt since well…the crewneck. From hipsters to hip-hop aficionados, everyone is sporting this tee. Wear it with a sports coat, under a sweater, or even by itself. The quality of vee’s is almost infinite as well. You can get Hanes 5-pack from almost any department store or designers like Marc Jacobs. My favorite places to get v-necks would have to be American Apparel (they’re ridiculously comfortable) or J. Crew (they’re a bit heavier but still soft). Don’t forget to stock up on colors; you can literally get any hue of the rainbow.
T W O W O R D S: C O N V E R S E A L L S T A R S Is that three words technically? These kicks actually go with anything and everything, hell you could wear them with a suit or tux (I don’t recommend it but you could still pull it off). My personal faves are the Jack Purcell Converses and the all white high-tops.
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woes of an online shopaholic
It makes sense that I’m the one writing this article considering I procrastinated writing it by…shopping online. I like to tell myself that I’m simply buying more online because I’m too lazy and too busy to go to the mall, and that this is the reason I’m receiving daily visits from the UPS man (we’re on a first name basis). But frequent phone calls to my mother about why I blew threw my monthly budget in a week and why my account has $6.38 balance, say otherwise. Dr. Nicole Schramm-Sapyta, a Duke School of Medicine Assistant Professor in Psychiatry & Behavioral Sciences and expert on drug addiction, confirms that there are “a lot of parallels between drug, alcohol and behavioral addictions” such as gambling, sex, videogames and online shopping. There is even evidence that the same neurological pathways are used in all of these types of addiction. But, assuming that my self-diagnosis as an online shopaholic is correct, how exactly does this addiction work? Dr. Schramm-Sapyta says that addiction occurs when the brain’s reward and executive control processes go awry. For you fashionistas who are not premed, the part of your brain involved in rewards is the part that makes you feel good when you eat after being hungry or have sex when you’re horny. The same feeling is produced when you shop. This reward center is balanced out by your executive control,
located in the pre-frontal cortex, which says to you “don’t do that now; wait until later.” Addiction results from excessive immediate reward seeking behaviors as well as a lack of control. Fortunately, I’m not the only one with this problem. According to eMarketer, projections for 2010 number American online users at 139 million, while Jupiter Research analysts claimed that 114 million users shopped online during the recent holiday season alone, with around $30 billion in online sales. Other Duke students also confessed to overeager online spending. Jen Zwilling, a Duke sophomore and Public Policy major, replied that, for her, online shopping “isn’t a big deal. I’ll just return something if I don’t love it.” However, even when something is returnable, you forget about shipping prices and the inconvenience of mailing the package back. And with the increased popularity of sample sale websites (think Gilt Groupe, Ideeli, Ruelala…), consumers are compelled to buy because a, its 70% off designer clothing and accessories, and b, you only have 15 minutes to contemplate buying them before another addictive online user somewhere else in the world can steal it from your Shopping Cart. I try to make myself feel better when I see other people outshop me. One student who wished to remain anonymous admitted to a $900 Shopbop.com tab but says this year she has kept her purchases to under $200 and hopes not to relapse. She blamed her ex-
cessive e-shopping habits on the excitement of getting something in the mail, as well as the fact that every piece of clothing is worn by gorgeous models with legs 6 feet long, so everything’s bound to look better online than
my fingertips, simply one click away. All I have to do is enter a bunch of numbers on the back of my credit card and within 3 business days I have the dopest pair of Nikes this side of the Mississippi.”
...you only have 15 minutes...before another addictive online user... can steal it from your shopping cart... on the average college student battling the Freshman 15. It seems that our location in Dur-hole doesn’t exactly help the situation either. Kate Salzman, also a Duke sophomore and an Art History major, explained that Durham shopping is pitiful, and although our options were greatly improved with development of the Streets at Southpoint mall 8 years ago, there is still a huge lack of variety. Kate also pointed out the effortlessness of shopping websites saying, “Shopping sites constantly update their inventory, and they keep customers posted about sales and other discounts. Many sites also provide look books and new ideas, which help keep my closet fresh and interesting, and a shopper can compare pricing from several different places to guarantee the best deal.” For Kathleen McDeavitt, a pre-med sophomore and Literature major, online shopping is more of a coping mechanism to deal with the high stress environment of college and let’s face it, spending too much money is a much better than some other addictions out there). She’s also too lazy (thank goodness it’s not just me!) to go to the mall and doesn’t have her car here at school; getting off campus to visit the few stores in the area becomes very difficult. Although women make up 63% of online shoppers, men are not immune to this addiction. Sam Zakria, a sophomore and Psychology major, explained, “Online shopping really allows me to express myself as a human being. There’s nothing like the adrenaline rush of having the world at
Online shopping can be very dangerous. Its accessibility fuels addiction and provides instant gratification. This satisfaction is produced with the immediate purchase and then again 5-7 business days later when the package arrives at your front door. Starting today, well maybe tomorrow, I will work to reduce my overactive e-commerce. After all, acknowledging the problem is the first step to recovery, right? Either that, or maybe my parents will just cut me off. We’ll see when the next credit card bill comes through… Good luck to all of you shoppers out there. By: Cameron McElroy
INSIDE CAMERON MCELROY’S CLOSET
Skinny Boyfriend Jeans, Rich & Skinny
UO Narrow Leather Belt, Urban Outfitters
Jersey U-Neck Dress, American Apparel
Classic Cropped Blazer, Zoa
Heeled Ankle Bootie, Forever 21
Floral Printed Mini Skirt, Miss Selfridge
Shiny Legging, American Apparel
Narrow Scoop Neck Tee, James Perse
Sequin Cascade Vest, Alice + Olivia
Zoe Satin Flats, Maloles
essential items for your wardrobe FORM’s first issue shows you how to mix and match these ten essentials for all the momentous “firsts” in life.
first date four
first marketplace brunch
first day of work
first day of school
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C A M P U S
C A N D I D S
C RA Z Y SH O ES
photo credits google images, miss selfridge, style.com, duke chronicle, bessie zhang, caroline long clothing credits david kim, kate pobuda, grace wei shuting, duke sports promotions, school house, the models