FORM Editor in Chief Mona Ascha Executive Editor Caroline Long FASHION Directors David Kim, Kate Pobuda Styling Camila Vignaud Assistants Alexa Galan, Betsy Santoyo, Kate Yang ART Layout Hilah Almog, Blair Melocik Photography Marissa Bergmann, Libby Busdicker, Tracy Huang, Gray Lyons, Alex Pherribo, Robert Wainblat EDITORIAL Contributing Writers Lauren Acampora, Hannah Anderson-Baranger, Morgan Beard, Lauren Budorick, Allison Candal, CC Croxton, Finn Leslie, Kate Salzman, Liz Turner, Monica Villar, Robert Wainblat, Yanyun Xiao, Taylor Zakarin WEB Designer Aaron Rales Blog Director Genevieve Werner Blog Editor Lauren Budorick PR-MARKETING Stormie Leoni, Jessica Stark, Brithny Zhang Special thanks to Matthew Atkins, Jim Bressler & Washington Duke Inn staff, Sandy Cheng, Lizzie and Kathryn Fortunato, Zack Green, Bobby Lam, Amy Pillsbury, Sara Rosenberg, Kimberly Skelton, Cameron Thompkins
Printed by Atkins Publishing & Processing Funded in part by the Undergraduate Publications Board of Duke University
in this issue Summer 2011
Market 4 How to Wear 6 Paint It Bright 12 By Sara Handbags Campus 13 I Never Leave My Dorm Room 14 Student Spotlights 16 Fashion Abroad: Madrid 18 Skate Life Style 25 DIY: Hex Nut Bracelet 26 Runway-Our Way 28 Fortunato Jewels 30 Summer Music Festivals 33 Tea Party Opinion 42 Add to Cart 46 Knockoff Nation 48 Sustainability: Nike Coalition 50 What’s In a Name? 51 Either/Or 52 Beyú Caffé 54 Campus Candids 56 Behind the Scenes
letter from the editor The other day I read an article on Yahoo! Finance speculating the onset of a new technology bubble, a reverberation of the ill-fated enormous dot-com bubble that burst in the early 2000s. The article elaborated upon the vast investments that companies such as JPMorgan Chase and Goldman Sachs are placing in budding social media websites like Twitter, Groupon, Zynga, and of course, the godfather, Facebook. Facebook has yet to go public but it has been valued at $50 billion, a figure that continues to rise. Meanwhile, the social shopping site Groupon that was founded a mere three years ago has been valued at $25 billion—just last year, the company was valued at $1.4 billion. Not to mention within the last year we’ve seen the launch of the iPad, iPhone 4, and 3D Nintendo console—there is no doubt we are in a technological era. With these revolutionary changes in communication and social networking, knowledge has traveled faster than ever before. Trends reach their peak and fade out much more quickly (does anyone remember Rebecca Black anymore?), and information is easily accessible by the public. This new world of social media has had a tremendous impact on the fashion world. Fashion bloggers are now lauded as important figures in the industry, one no longer needs to be physically present at fashion week to watch the runway shows (those live feeds were the worst distraction during mid terms week), and online shopping is beginning to replace actual shopping. In this issue of FORM, we hop on that social media train. Our interview with WingTipIt founder, Kimberley Skelton ’03, showcases her brilliant idea to combine social networking and online shopping. Personally, I couldn’t be more thankful for her website— I can finally delete the long list of bookmarked urls of clothing items I want and instead have them in a nice, organized space! We also have some new interactive elements to our digital issue. We’ve embedded videos for one of our photoshoots so we could illustrate the movement and skill of the skateboarders—something a still photograph cannot always capture. In addition like the last digital issue, our articles have hyperlinks so you can click on the product you are reading about and head directly to its website. Pretty cool, right? Maybe I’ve been listening to too much Bob Dylan these days, but the times they are a-changin. Life is more fast-paced than ever, with innovations in technology and communication evolving the world as we know it. While we are lucky to live in such an exciting epoch, just remember to stop every once in a while, catch your breath and enjoy the moment. Stay chic,
HOW to WEAR TAILORED PANTS J.CREW MINNIE PANT
ON THE QUAD
Jacket, Gap; T-shirt, Marc by Marc Jacobs; Shoes, Pour la Victoire; Headband, American Apparel.
ON THE TOWN
. Top, French Connection; Shoes, Steve Madden.
ON THE JOB
Blazer, Elizabeth and James; Tank, American Apparel; Shoes, Dolce Vita.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY LIBBY BUSDICKER
CLASSIC BROGUES ALLEN EDMONDS LACEUP BROGUES
MEET YOUR BOSS MEET THE PARENTS
. Sweater, Polo; Pants, Corneliani.
Sweater, H&M; Blazer, H&M; Jeans, Nudie; Belt, Oliver Spencer.
T-shirt, H&M; Shorts, Dockers; Belt, ASOS.
PAINT IT BRIGHT spice up your summer with vivid hues
photography by marissa bergmann
Y E L L O
Bag, Kate Spade; Ring, Old Navy; Bracelets, Caroline Culbertson; Watch, Michael Kors; Nail Polish, OPI Burlesque Collection in “Bring On the Bling.”
Shoes, Jessica Simpson; Bracelets, Monkee’s; Nail Polish, Sally Hansen InstaDry in “Grape Going.”
PU RP LE
Shoes, Pour la Victoire; Bracelets, Madewell, Forever 21; Nail Polish, OPI Swiss Collection in “Glitzerland.”
BO RW N
Shoes, Tory Burch; Ring, Handpicked; Watch, La Mer.
coral lip key product: MAC Lipstick in “M’Orange”
Ring, Monkee’s; Nail Polish, OPI in “On Colin’s Avenue;”
CoverGirl 3-Kit Eye Enhancers in “Blazing Blues”
TIP: Keep your skin protected this summer by wearing SPF, taking omega-3 vitamins and drinking plenty of water. 10
fishtail braid Check out our digital issue for a how to video.
by SARA handbags by finn leslie
When Duke parent Sara Rosenberg was here with her son a few years ago, a friend gave her a cross body bag in the shape of a basketball, which she wore to many of the games. “It was whimsical and a great conversation piece,” she says, however, the wooden material and construction made it a bit impractical. So Sara had the idea to design her own basketball bag, one that was both more comfortable and more appealing. By Sara features a variety of satchels, clutches and totes that are comfortable, attractive and reasonably priced. But that’s not all. Her bags, which are inspired by top designers like Louis Vuitton, Goyard and Prada, incorporate school colors and logos. “After exploring products out there, I felt there was room for my conceptual product,” Sara explains. She went straight to work and developed a support team with New York handbag designers. The result was not just a basketball cross body, but an entire line of bags and accessories such as wallets, cosmetic bags and key chains. Duke was the first institution to grant By Sara a license to make handbags that feature the university’s logo. “I will be eternally grateful,” Sara admits. And we should be too, because Duke students and enthusiasts can now buy these products in Duke’s retail stores and soon through their catalogue. Sara hopes to expand her market to spirited students around the country, and thirty other schools have already requested products from the line (but we don’t really care about them, do we?). In the meantime, she reminds us to “enjoy the bags and enjoy this time of life. You’re all very lucky to be part of the wonderful Duke family!”
the PRODUCTS grafitti clutch duke canvas tote crossbody bball bag
There’s a time in life to wear a serious, expensive handbag, but attending a sporting event or running around campus is a time to be carefree and spirited. My bags embody this spirit.
I never leave my dorm room without... must haves that get Duke students through the day Amy Pillsbury Age: 22 Year: Senior Major: Political Science Item: Red lip stain Why: “A girl always has to show off her smile!”
Eloïse Cartwright Age: 19 Year: Freshman Major: History Item: Cigarettes Why: “‘Nuff said.”
Christopher Rich Age: 20 Year: Sophomore Major: Biomedical Engineering Item: Pepto Bismol and 5 Hour Energy Why: “These two items go hand in hand. They’re all anyone should need to comfortably make it through the day.”
Tyler Thornton Age: 18 Year: Freshman Major: Undecided Item: Silly Bandz Why: “I feel weird without them. Depending on my mood I’ll wear different colored ones.”
Katherine Ross Age: 22 Year: Senior Major: International Comparative Studies Item: My fedora Why: “So I can always be fedorable.”
Alejandro Lequio Age: 18 Year: Freshman Major: Economics and Political Science Item: My iPod Why: “Music is my escape. Whenever I have a bad experience it helps me to forget.”
Age: 22 Year: Senior Major: Political Science Item: Palmer’s Cocoa Butter Swivel Stick Why: “Best chapstick ever. Been using it since middle school and everyone thinks it’s a glue stick.”
by Elizabeth Turner sketches by Finn Leslie 13
Interview and photography by Robert Wainblat
HOW WOULD YOU PERSONALLY DESCRIBE YOUR STYLE?
I don’t think a specific adjective exists to describe my style and I definitely enjoy it that way. I do however have a clear preference for extremely ‘slim fit’ or tight articles of clothing. I like to wear more conservative colors such as black or gray as my base and then use brighter colors for my accessories or tops. I also love to try new articles of clothing and branch out of my usual style. I am usually very outgoing with what I wear. YOU ARE ITALIAN BUT HAVE LIVED PREDOMINANTLY IN PARIS. BOTH ITALY AND FRANCE HAVE STRONG AESTHETIC VALUES. DO YOU PREFER ANY ONE OR DO YOU LIKE TO COMBINE DIFFERENT ELEMENTS FROM BOTH?
As much as I love France, I’m still Italian at heart and thus I am biased towards Italian fashion houses. I find that Italy has truly mastered the art of ‘casual elegance’ in the sense that many fashion houses have rendered articles previously viewed as luxurious into every day ‘readyto-wear.’ Personally, I am in love with Dolce & Gabbana even though they are not easy to afford. However, I must admit that French fashion is undeniably superior with houses such as Yves Saint Laurent, Hermés, Louis Vuitton, and Jean-Paul Gaultier that are constantly at the forefront of the fashion industry. HOW HAS GROWING UP IN PARIS INFLUENCED YOUR STYLE AND HAVE YOU FOUND IT DIFFICULT TO ADAPT FROM LIVING IN THE EUROPEAN FASHION CAPITAL TO LIVING ON A SOUTHERN CAMPUS?
Residing in France for my entire life has definitely influenced the way I dress. Being constantly exposed to the latest fashion trends helps to build and maintain your own image that you can then cater to your own personal preferences. However, my younger sister has played an instrumental role in the way I dress. She has introduced me to many of my favorite major fashion houses and remains to this day, the best fashionista I know. SHOPPING IN NORTH CAROLINA COMPARED TO PARIS MUST BE VERY DIFFERENT. HOW DO YOU GO ABOUT BUYING NEW CLOTHES?
I wouldn’t know... I do not shop in NC. I went to Northgate once, never went back. And I only go to Southpoint because I like the movie theatre and the Apple Store. But in all seriousness, the choices are so limited here that I rather not even bother. I sometimes shop online but I would much rather actually go to boutiques, try clothes on, and make a day out of it with friends or family. DO YOU HAVE ANY STYLE ADVICE FOR THE DUKE STUDENTS WHO ARE MOVING TO EUROPE AFTER GRADUATION OR ARE SPENDING THEIR SUMMERS THERE?
Try to soak in as much of the fashion trends as you can. Some trends and articles may look too ‘Euro’ and you might feel like you cannot ‘pull that off’ but remain open to trying new things and I think you will find that you might enjoy your new sense of style. ARE THERE ANY FASHION TRENDS ON CAMPUS THAT YOU FAVOR?
I really love to see people wearing something unique and a little ‘out there.’ I feel like our campus could use some more daring trend setters. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE PIECE OF CLOTHING?
My gray Duke sweatpants. I have had them since freshman year. They are really comfortable and I often wear them around the dorm and to bed.
Year: 2013 Course of Study: Political Science Hometown: Paris, France After Duke: Peace Corps; Foreign Service Officer Noteworthy: avid Duke Ski Team enthusiast
what he wears
American Apparel v-neck, Dior vest, 511 Skinny Levis, Canvas Penguin shoes, SaudiArabian keffiyeh, D&G belt, Ray Ban aviators
HOW WOULD YOU PERSONALLY DESCRIBE YOUR STYLE?
I am very sensitive to atypical proportions and I like to favor asymmetry as well as incorporate a limited minimalistic palette. Ideally, I aspire to dress like the love-child of Rick Owens and Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons. HOW HAS GROWING UP IN NYC AFFECTED YOUR STYLE?
As far as fashion is concerned, NYC is a place of subtlety that works with a limited palette. Living there has made me more interested in cuts and textures of clothes. As an impecunious high-school student, window-shopping and street style made me think more about outfits as constructions and made me more aware of how each individual pieces of clothing interact with the body. IS IT HARD TO ADAPT FROM CITY LIFE TO A COLLEGE CAMPUS?
When I transitioned to living on campus, I became more self-aware of my personal style. Since the way I dress might be viewed as atypical compared to the rest of the student population, living on campus has forced me to become more confident in my fashion choices. I wish more people would challenge the familiarity of living on campus would be more open to experimenting, at least as far as style is concerned. SHOPPING IN NORTH CAROLINA MUST BE VERY DIFFERENT FROM THE CITY. HOW DO YOU FIND NEW PIECES?
Local thrift stores and small boutiques, such as Magpie, provide more of a unique selection but I try to make most of my purchases in person when I go back home. Some of my favorite stores are actually the ones that don’t project their brand image unto their clothes. For example I enjoy Uniqlo, Muji and Zara. YOU ARE VERY PASSIONATE ABOUT ART AND HAVE BEEN INVOLVED WITH THE NASHER. HOW HAVE YOU INTEGRATED ART INTO YOUR DAILY LIFE AND DO YOU PLAN ON PURSUING A CAREER IN THE ART WORLD AFTER GRADUATION?
While in college I’ve become more interested in art commentary and last spring I started writing my own blog, UCQ, first as an intellectual exercise which later developed into a collection of working thoughts on the art world. Ultimately I would like to work with alternative spaces and publications and maybe eventually look into a career in art law. DO YOU HAVE ANY STYLE ADVICE FOR THE DUKE STUDENTS WHO ARE MOVING TO NEW YORK AFTER GRADUATION OR ARE SPENDING THEIR SUMMER THERE?
Simple cuts, patterns and colors go a long way in making a strong statement. ARE THERE ANY TRENDS ON CAMPUS THAT YOU DON’T FAVOR?
what she wears
Mom’s vintage shirt, Urban Outfitters pants, Silence and Noise shoes, vintage Monet necklace, Etsy ring
I personally don’t like clothes that through their movement or lack thereof attract too much attention as you walk, such as bodycons or overflowing dresses, and I am not particularly a fan of excess in any shape or form. Year: 2011 Course of Study: Art History and English Hometown: New York, NY After Duke: Art Commentary, Gallery Work and Art Blogging in NYC Noteworthy: Nasher Student Advisory board, Teaching a House Course on the Art World, Barista at Joe Van Gogh
duke abroad: MADRID Monica Villar, Trinity ‘12, explores Spanish fashion
When I first arrived in Madrid, I knew I was out of my league. The general female population at Duke in Madrid’s host university is willowy, deeply tanned, and wearing trim, conservative clothes that make me believe we’re still in Transition-era Spain. And since I have not yet committed to wearing high heels to trek to class, I can’t keep up, in height or otherwise. Every twenty-something Madrileña I’ve encountered seems to have a totally enviable, although somewhat similar style, which begs the question: where the hell are these girls getting their clothes from? The answer: Zara, Mossimo Dutti, Bershka, and a slew of other stores, all mysteriously owned by the same manufacturing corporation, Inditex. Inditex’s owner, Amancio Ortega is not surprisingly the seventh richest man in the world. All of these brands market a specific image. The more youthful labels like Berhska and Pull & Bear push something akin to Abercrombie and Fitch – an aesthetic that is surprisingly popular given its image back home. Everything else under the Inditex sun, however, tends towards multiple versions of the general Zara collection in different materials and to accommodate several budgets. Neutrals, smart looking LBDs, and Mediterraneaninspired leisure wear are the name of the game. Don’t get me wrong, I love Zara and have fond memories of waiting for the first store to open in Los Angeles, and I definitely wish I could shop at Zara Home when I outfit my new apartment next year. However, as time here passes I find myself trawling the racks and thinking “Can I even get away with wearing this here?” A pair of boots I narrowly decided against buying I have since seen on the feet of a different girl almost every day. If I were to bring back only one fashion lesson from my year here in this very stylish capital, it’s this: mix and match. The dangers of abusing one store for a good part of your wardrobe aren’t just apparent here in Madrid. I’m guilty of this habit back in the US. Thank goodness that H&M doesn’t sell its products online and that Crabtree Valley Mall remains mostly out of reach, otherwise we might have the same problem on Duke’s campus.
A few fashion remedies should the Inditex Empire ever collapse and Madrileñas find themselves with nothing to wear:
I was initially fooled into thinking this store was Japanese, but Hakei is actually based in the Basque region of Northern Spain. Its founders, the Bilbao family, brought over 60 years of expertise in fashion and leatherworking to the table and rebranded their company in 2003. Less than ten years later, Hakei’s clean design and luxe materials have caught the eye of Spanish consumers and the company is preparing to go international; their newest store will open this spring at Galeries Lafayette in Paris. Their all-greige womenswear is pretty basic, but I have a major soft spot for the shoes and handbags, all European-made and packed with quirky designs. The best part is the pricing; the most expensive items hover around 100 euro. Believe me, during Rebajas, or ‘discount’ season, this place is IN-SANE.
HAND is where Madrid women go to tune into their inner Parisian. The store owners make a trip there every three weeks to stock up on whimsical and ultra-feminine tops, dresses, and skirts and are extremely knowledgeable about every piece. The store itself is located on a sleepy side street just parallel to Madrid’s busiest shopping avenue, Fuencarral, and its innocuous storefront goes unnoticed by most. However, once inside the doors and in the shop (essentially the size of a hallway), you come across clothes and décor that seem to effortlessly achieve the kind of indie darling image that stores like Anthropologie have made a killing imitating. I almost never see anyone else in the store, but somehow each time I come back all of the clothes are different. Perhaps Madrid’s best kept secret?
This store is the brainchild of Totón Comella, a swimwear designer whose shops mix her collections of suits and intimate apparel with prêt-a-porter and resort collections from haute designers. Everything is organized by color, which makes the whole place look like some sort of adult candy shop. Sadly, while the clothes are casual, their price tags just make me want to get a job. After visiting TCN I usually go home, get on eBay, and start dreaming.
Monica in Plaza Mayor
Skateboarding at duke...
photography and text by alex pherribo
...There is nothing like it. For boarders, there is often nothing we would rather do than escape to a sunny afternoon cruising smooth pavement on our little pieces of heaven. From mastering technical tricks at the park, to free riding, to bombing hills pushing 40 mph on 46 inch longboards, skateboarding is such a rush. Though the boarding culture at Duke is relatively small compared to other universities in the area, those that are a part of it just canâ€™t get enough. Freshman Zack Green comments, â€œI just love the way bombing a hill feels. It just feels good to feel your whole self moving down a smooth street on a sunny day.â€? Skateboarding brings people together, with the common bond of what they love to do. 19
Bobby Lam [Midair, right] “I spent last summer in Beijing, and one day when I was out skating around the city and exploring, I ran into another skateboarder. He spoke no English and my Chinese level was equivalent to that of a 2nd grader, but it didn’t matter that we couldn’t speak the same language--we communicated perfectly through skateboarding and smiles. After only a couple of games of S.K.A.T.E., we had built up enough trust for him to let me ride on the back of his moped to a private warehouse/skatepark nested in the side alleys of the ChaoYang District of Beijing. His name was Xiao Dong, and we would end up meeting each other every week to skate for the remainder of my time in China. There was no other reason than skateboarding and the grace of God that such an unlikely friendship could have been formed.”
Skaters (left to right): Bobby Lam, Zack Green, Cameron Thompkins
There is an unspoken bond amongst those who ride that transcends social boundaries. In a constant push to get better and experience all that boarding has to offer, we sacrifice our bodies for what we love.
it’s like life. you’ll hit some bumps, scrape your knees, but you’re always happy to get back on your feet and keep pushing. 24
diy: hex nut bracelet materials
+ This can be tedious and difficult at first. It doesn’t hurt to have an extra set of hands available. + The smaller the nut, the better it will conform to the lovely braid shape. I made one with ¼” nuts and that’s the biggest I would go. + It can be difficult to make the nuts conform. Tightening the braid along the way will help.
+ Twine + At least 18 small brass hex nuts, depending on how much of the bracelet you want them to cover + Tape + Optional: Colored string if you want to add a bit of color to the braided part
By Morgan Beard
1. Cut twine into three strands, each should be one yard in length. If you want to incorporate colored string, cut three strands of this (also one yard) and include it in your knot. 2. Line up the strands and tie a knot at the top, with a couple inches of room above your knot. Tape this part to the table to anchor the bracelet. 3. Braid your strands until you’ve made a bit more than an inch of progress. 4. Now it’s time to start braiding in the nuts. Thread a nut onto the strand on the side that you are about to cross over the current middle strand. Once you’ve done that, do the same thing with the strand on the opposite side. (You are always just sliding a nut onto the string you’re about to move—this will alternate between the left and rightmost strands).
5. As you go, pinch the bracelet and slide your fingers toward the top to continually tighten and adjust the nuts. 6. Repeat until you’ve added all 18 nuts to the bracelet or as many as you’ve chosen to use. Then finish with another inch or so of braid and a knot. 7. Cut the twine to the length of your choosing, depending on how many times you want it to wrap around your wrist.
Inspired by a design from honestlywtf.com
Y A W
N U R OUR WAY Caroline Culbertson Necklace
American Apparel Tank Dress
Pleasure Doing Business Skirt
Bebe Shoes Spring 2011
Love a runway look but not its price tag? Our personal shopper on the FORM blog can help you find your own look within your budget.
Barneyâ€™s New York Scarf H&M Hat J. Lindeberg Shirt
American Apparel Jacket
Din Sko Shoes
Lizzie Fortunato Jewels Duke ’06 graduates and twin sisters, Lizzie and Kathryn Fortunato were a sought after duo by fashionable girls all around campus. Initially, Lizzie designed jewelry for formals or a weekend night out, when suddenly, as Lizzie remembers, “countless friends—and girls we didn’t know—started knocking on our dorm room door asking if they could borrow something for a dance or function.” For economics major Kathryn this was a telltale sign that she and Lizzie could develop a business out of their small operation. The girls made space in their West Campus nook for Lizzie to design, and by the end of their sophomore year, they held a trunk show at Parizades in Durham. With incredible success from their first show, they continued to hold events, garnering enough orders for two months worth of business. After graduation, both girls took separate jobs but came together again a year later to form Lizzie Fortunato Jewels now sold at fashion retail powerhouses such as
Bergdorf Goodman and Opening Ceremony. The pieces are no “plain Jane” uniform of little pearl earrings. Fortunato Jewels are intricate and complicated creations composed of various and unexpected materials – a “fusion of high and low...materials sourced from around the globe.”
Were there creative opportunities for you while at Duke?
Lizzie: From an academic perspective, art history courses taught by Kristine Stiles were really inspiring and continue to influence my work as a designer. Her introductory class on post-modern art (1940s to present) greatly informed the way I understand and appreciate art and I often begin each season of design by looking at both fine art and fashion trends. Her post-modern sculpture class - which looked at everything from Giacometti figures to massive land art installations - inspired a road trip several
summers ago, which culminated in visiting Walter deMaria’s Southern New Mexico outdoor installation “The Lightning Field”. That trip, and that specific piece, influenced our Fall/Winter ‘09 collection (entitled “Long May You Run”) tremendously.
What is the design process like?
L: If I have the luxury to travel (even if it’s to a flea market within Manhattan or a drive upstate) that helps to begin my process for each season. I constantly collect vintage pieces and will look for interesting fabrics or antiques, which speak to my mood and will often inform a collection. From there I tend to look at art or a specific geographical place and develop a “narrative” around my thoughts for a given season. A story tends to develop and I design accordingly. Each season I have a “girl” in mind that I am outfitting. For Fall/Winter ‘11, that girl was a western pioneer woman - someone who was fearless and creative. I was looking a lot at the 19th century British natural historian Isabella Bird who traveled hundreds of miles of the Colorado Rockies on horseback. Here was a lady who found medicines in herbs and looked at the stars. The whole collection has this organic and earthly feel with a hint of mysticism and astrology!
Any favorite pieces?
L: I tend to have a favorite piece from each collection. For Spring/Summer ‘11 it was the “Surf City” necklace; for Fall ‘11 I’m not sure yet... I haven’t gotten a chance to wear any of the samples because we’re still doing sales!
“I think we strive to have fearless, independent women in our work. Girls who are not scared to put on something over the top, but really embrace it.”
What advice can you provide undergrads about a profession in fashion or the arts?
L: Traditionally, entering into the world of fashion (particularly in NYC) can be terribly unrewarding in the beginning. Unlike my peers who entered finance, the compensation is trivial in the fashion arena (editorial, design, PR), and the hours are nearly as bad. It’s definitely a field that requires paying your dues, however it’s also a very small world. Editors bounce from magazine to magazine after short stints, designers move between fashion houses and there is a certain degree of mobility. It’s extremely encouraging that should you put in the work, make as
many connections as possible, and dedicate yourself, you can accomplish a lot. Also, the difference between entering this world five or ten years ago, and doing so today, is that the internet and the emergence of fashion blogs have really democratized the field. I think that these ways of expressing your creativity (while your first job may not give you an outlet to do so) are so important; they not only allow future employers to get an idea of your “vision” but they keep your own creative juices flowing, which is always necessary especially when the grind of work threatens to stifle creativity.
What is your proudest moment or greatest achievement thus far?
L: We’ve had several “pivotal” moments for the brand. About a year into the business (mid 2007), an LFJ piece was featured on the cover of Women’s Wear Daily. Waking up to that was a huge confidence boost and really encouraging. It makes you think ‘Ok, we can do this!” Last fall, LFJ was selected among 18 other accessories brand to participate in Harper’s Bazaar and Council of Fashion Designers of America-sponsored “Accessories Bazaar” at Lincoln center during NYC fashion week. We were surrounded by CFDA recipients, lines consistently featured in Vogue, and accessory designers like Alexis Bittar - he’s been around for 30 years, has a handful of storefronts and runs a multi-million dollar business so being in that kind of company was quite a milestone.
by Taylor Zakarin
*For an extended interview please visit our website*
guide to summer music festival style
By Allison Candal
5 . WHEN: April 15-17th WHERE: Indio, CA HEADLINERS: Kings of Leon, Arcade Fire, Kanye West, The Strokes, Black Keys, Mumford & Sons, National, Ratatat WHAT TO BRING: Camping equipment, sunglasses, layers (it gets cooler at night), cash (limited number of ATMs) TICKETS: Wristband valid for all 3 days
1. Strong & Dickerson vest, $184 2. J. Crew hat, $34 3. TopShop romper, $72 4. ASOS necklace, $14.34 5. Ray-Ban sunglasses, $135 6. Joie sandal, $255 7. Linea Pelle bag, $225
5. DREW BARRYMORE
1. Gilded Lily earrings, $80 2. Ray-Ban sunglasses, $145 3. Wildfox shirt, $64 4. Emilio Pucci bag, $1422 5. Blu Moon bracelet, $110 6. Insight shorts, $62 7. Gargyle boots, $185 8. Face paint
WHEN: June 9-12th WHERE: Manchester, TN HEADLINERS: Eminem, Arcade Fire, Lil Wayne, Mumford & Sons, The Strokes, The Decemberists, Bassnectar, Girl Talk, Florence + The Machine, Wiz Khalifa, Chiddy Bang, Matt & Kim, Best Coast WHAT TO BRING: Camping equipment (tents available to rent on site), energy bars, flashlight for porta-potties TICKETS: Tickets of various price levels (1,2,3,4), all tickets are 4-day passes and include camping and parking 31
5. 4. WHEN: August 5-7th WHERE: Grant Park, Chicago, IL RUMORED HEADLINERS (official lineup released on April 26th): Eminem, Muse, Foo Fighters, Best Coast, Girl Talk, Crystal Castles, Lykke Li WHAT TO BRING: Sunscreen (few shady areas), towel for seating (no chairs allowed), bike for getting around the park TICKETS: 3-day passes, or 1-day passes (Friday, Saturday, or Sunday)
1. Urban Outfitter sunglasses, $14 2. American Apparel swimsuit, $45 3. Kettle Black belt, $242 4. Peace Sign necklace, $9.99 5. Wildfox shorts, $145 6. TopShop sandals, $85
We would be delighted if you join us for afternoon tea and crumpets at the Washington Duke Inn and Golf Club photography by Gray Lyons fashion by Kate Pobuda & Kate Yang hair and make up by Alexa Galan & Betsy Santoyo
Allie: Top, Tibi; Skirt, J.Crew; Shoes, Forever 21. Necklace, Forever 21. Rosa: Dress, Hadley Emerson; Skirt, Urban Outfitters; Shoes, Limelight; Bracelet, Juicy Couture. Liz: Dress, Rodarte for Target; Shoes, Vince Camuto; Earrings, Forever 21; Ring, Winds of Change.
Beth: Top, Banana Republic; Skirt, Urban Outfitters; Bandeau, American Apparel; Shoes, Spike. Rosa: Top, Floreat; Pants, American Apparel; Shoes, Limelight; Hat, Forever 21.
Liz: Tank, American Apparel; Skirt, Urban Outfitters; Belt, Urban Outfitters; Hat, Grace Hats; Shoes, Madewell; Bracelet, Cockamamie Jewelry. Allie: Shirt, See by Chloe; Shorts, Just Ginger; Socks, Urban Outfitters; Shoes, Forever 21; Hat, Flora Bella; Bag, Nine West; Rings, Winds of Change.
Rosa: Dress, Nell Couture; Shoes, Vince Camuto; Necklace, Forever 21. Beth (below): Romper, Juicy Couture; Shoes, Elizabeth and James; Necklace, H&M.
Liz: Dress, Dress Shop; Necklace, Urban Outfitters; Flower pin, H&M.
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an interview with kim skelton, duke alum and founder of Wingtipit
by yanyun xiao
In an era where social media and online shopping dominate the majority of time we spend on our computers, a website that effectively combines both would seem like the perfect invention. Imagine being able to connect with friends and family to get the approval you need before making online purchases without the hassle of sending messy links, calling, and emailing back-and-forth—imagine having access to your favorite retailers in one web portal. Well, there’s no need to imagine anymore: this brilliant creation already exists. WingTipIt.com enables online customers to connect with their social network through online shopping, creating a social shopping community where people can discover, share, and recommend products to each other. Shoppers can select products from any retailer and save the desired items in their own “online closet” accessible by friends to get feedback before purchasing it directly from the retailer. Besides friends and family, WingTipIt users even have access to style experts, including bloggers and stylists, who can guide and enhance their shopping experience. I recently sat down with co-founder and former Dukie – Trinity ’03 – Kim Skelton to learn more about this exciting new product!
carla holtze and kim skelton Tell us about your experience at duke Kim: Duke is the best! I loved being a student at Duke and didn’t want college to end. I made a lot of great friends—many of them were from my freshman dorm Giles—and I’m still in touch with them today. I also met my husband at Duke (although we didn’t start dating ‘til the end of senior year). I think one of the best parts about my Duke experience is that every year was unique - from freshman year on East to sophomore year on West study abroad junior year (I went to Florence), and savoring senior year. I felt like I was looking forward to something new each semester. I also had many great professors and loved Duke’s “work hard-play hard” mentality.
When and How did you get the idea?
Kim: The idea was born while I was working at Tory Burch during the summer between my first and second year at Columbia Business School. I teamed up with a classmate at Columbia, Carla Holtze, to flesh out the idea. We both saw a great opportunity in helping online customers connect with their friends and family to get the validation they needed before making a purchase online, and to give retailers a conduit to directly reach their customers. We set our minds to creating a fun “social shopping” solution. Our values were to simplify user experience, to help shoppers filter through endless product options online, and to cater to the mobile, multichannel customer.
How did you make the idea happen? Kim: I was fortunate to be in business school when the idea was born. Carla Holtze and I were able to use our time at school to focus on studying the market. We leveraged our professors, the entrepreneurship center, and industry experts who would speak on campus. We took advantage of retail classes and attended guest lectures by CEOs of major retail companies. Being a student was also helpful because it got us in the door at retailers, which were the most valuable and constructive resources for us to evaluate our concept. They were willing to help students with a class project, and did not fear that we were trying to sell them something. After graduation, we believed we had a strong understanding of the market and the product we wanted to build. So we went for it.
What were some obstacles you had to overcome?
Kim: One of our biggest obstacles was figuring out the right execution. It’s one thing to come up with an idea, but it’s another to design a product that will be engaging for customers and easy for them to adopt. We initially started with a very complex product, which we eventually realized would be extremely costly to build, difficult to integrate with retailers’ systems, and timely for customers to adopt. Taking a major pivot to create a much simpler product was scary, and it meant retracing many of our steps. However, the incubation period was time well spent, because it made us much more confident in our final product.
My favorite part about WingTipIt is that it allows me to connect with my family and friends when we can’t physically be in a store together. I enjoy browsing closets and lists that my friends have made and commenting on items I think would look great on them.
how has virtual retail affected the retail industry?
Kim: E-commerce has become an important channel for retailers and continues to grow substantially each year as more people become comfortable with online shopping. The beauty of it is that flaws and deficiencies can be modified quickly. Companies now have the ability to find out the most effective style of merchandising their products online through A/B testing . Retailers can identify products that are trending online faster than they can detect them in-store, and they can collect highly focused data on customers, facilitating a better understanding of their online audience. Conversely, social media has given customers the ability to effectively communicate with retailers, allowing for better customer service and satisfaction. WingTipIt therefore serves and assists both the supply and demand side of the retail industry, for retailers benefit as items get shared with shoppers’ existing social graphs, triggering additional sales and boosting site traffic and conversion rates, while customers attain a superior online shopping experience. Furthermore, mobile technology is also becoming an increasingly important channel for retailers, who are in the process of creating the “multichannel” shopping experience, which means allowing consumers to shop and discover the brand in different places through different conduits (through free-standing stores, online stores, and now mobile stores). At WingTipIt we see mobile as the bridge between online and off-line shopping, and we are excited for our upcoming mobile app, which will enable customers to take their “closets” into the store so they can conveniently reference items they want to own, and to take the store home with them by adding products from the store to their online closets. For us, that will be the ultimate multichannel shopping environment.
Did you intend to work in social media?
Kim: I did not have specific plans of going into social media, although I think it’s becoming difficult for anyone, especially entrepreneurs and businesses, to not have some role in social media. While I was working in the e-commerce group at Tory Burch, social media was a major channel for us to communicate with our customers, and most companies (large and small) are increasingly utilizing this medium to connect with their customers as well. But now, social media is huge at WingTipIt. It inspired us during the design process, and it serves as a way for us to communicate with customers and form new relationships. We found that the main social media platforms available (e.g. Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn) all serve unique purposes, yet none of them are the right forum to share products you like. We recognized that people don’t necessarily want to ask all their Facebook friends (the nearest and dearest thousand) for an opinion, yet they would like a space to share products and get advice from their best friends. That’s the kind of social media WingTipIt provides.
have you always wanted to be involved in the fashion industry? what role does fashion play in your life and your career? Kim: I’ve always appreciated fashion as a product. When I was in business school, I was advised to do something I’m passionate about. That being said, I tried my hand at working in the fashion industry for my summer internship and found myself really enjoying it. I had also always dreamed about doing something entrepreneurial, so I was excited when I could combine these two passions.
have you always wanted to be an entrepreneur?
Kim: I have always dreamed of being an entrepreneur. I love to come up with new ideas. I tried a few ventures after Duke (on top of my day job) but was always held back by being in a market that was too niche, which meant it would be difficult to make money or by time and know-how constraints that prevented me from accessing the market quickly.
what are your favorite Online sites? Kim: WingTipIt of course! I also find myself on Facebook all the time and have recently picked up Twitter. I love to explore high fashion e-commerce sites and put all the items I like into my “closet.” Fashion blogs also serve as a source of inspiration. As for entrepreneurship, I enjoy reading Mashable and Tech Crunch. My guilty pleasures are page 6 of the New York Post and the “Sushi with my Girls” blog.
Before jumping too far into an idea, I would encourage people to...
1. study the market first 2. determine that your market is big enough 3. resolve the best execution for your idea I would also encourage people to try launching a venture while in school . It is an
environment full of resources, where you can speak with professors and experts, and easily find a team with various skill sets.
Now that you have come away with all this valuable information from the woman behind this innovative website, don’t forget to check it out for yourself and start building your own online closet to share with friends! I have already created an account to give it a try. My assessment of the experience: the clean interface and perceptive features make navigation throughout the site intuitive and effortless. WingTipIt’s “Bookmarklet” button (available for download onto your browser’s Bookmarks bar) allows me to add any item from any retailer’s website directly into my online closet, ready to be shared with friends. WingTipIt lives up to its name as “your wingman for online shopping.”
KNOCKOFF NATION by Lauren Budorick
For years, Forever 21 has been a favorite of mall rats and frugal fashionistas everywhere. Its diverse range of inexpensive fashions attracts those trying to keep up with rapidly changing trends without breaking the bank. And it’s no wonder why: at any given time, the retailer carries everything from formal dresses to faded tees, from girly to goth and so much more. Upon further inspection, however, one may notice a more disturbing trend that has yet to fade from the shelves. Forever 21 designs often channel scary similarities to high-end designer fashions.
Intellectual property “creations of the mind: inventions, literary and artistic works, and symbols, names, images, and designs used in commerce.” Indeed, the merchandiser is one of the most wellknown violators of intellectual property rights. Intellectual property, as defined by the World Intellectual Property Organization, refers to “creations of the mind: inventions, literary and artistic works, and symbols, names, images, and designs used in commerce.” But in fashion, intellectual prop-
erty is much more difficult to enforce than in other creative industries such as film and music. Some argue that a key component of the industry is the ability to entice customers to buy clothing based on setting trends, and intellectual property rules that infringe on the trend-making process would be detrimental to the industry. At some point, though, a designer’s individual creative contributions to fashion must be respected and protected. When seedy street vendors on Canal Street are making big bucks from knockoff Chanel Cambons, something has got to be done. The fashion industry is no stranger to issues with intellectual property. When late nineteenth-century trunk makers began imitating Louis Vuitton’s innovative and artfully made trunks, Vuitton’s son Georges designed the signature monogram pattern of interlocking LV logos interspersed with flowers and quatrefoils to make imitation more difficult. The irony of it all, of course, is that a century later, the logo has evolved from an anti-counterfeiting tool to perhaps one of the biggest causes of intellectual property infringement in the industry. The luxury logo has become a conspicuous status symbol, and everyone wants a piece of it. Throughout the past few decades the global economy experienced a “democratization of luxury,” creating a major demand for these status brands. At the same time China emerged as a capitalist
market economy with a huge workforce and the world’s manufacturing leader. Supply and demand coincided, and the counterfeit industry exploded. According to Indicam, the counterfeiting of all goods has increased by 1700 percent since 1993. The International Anti-Counterfeiting Coalition estimates that up to $600 billion of today’s global trade is counterfeit. In addition, the World Customs Organization has reported that the fashion industry loses up to $9.7 billion each year due to counterfeiting. Many middle-market consumers think that when they buy a knockoff Louis Vuitton, they are only hurting a luxury mega-giant that really does not need that extra price tag—a “drop in the bucket” sort of philosophy. But what most do not realize is how deep the rabbit hole goes. Behind the Canal Street storefronts and suburban purse parties lies an industry fueled by sweatshops exploiting child labor and run by crime syndicates involved in human trafficking, gang warfare, drug trafficking, and terrorism. There are issues with even legitimate retailers such as Forever 21. Their “knockoffs” fall into a grayer area of intellectual property: rather than replicating trademarked logos, the mall-giant copies individual designs and modifies them only slightly, if at all. Forever 21 has confidentially settled more than 50 lawsuits with designers who have made accusations of intellectual property infringement. Often they avoid copying bigger, better-protected companies like Louis Vuitton or
Chanel because of their aggressive intellectual property policies. Instead the retailer targets smaller labels such as Trovata and Alexander Wang, who are less able to pursue aggressive legal action. When a label does confront them about an item, Forever 21 executives have been known to pay them a percentage of the revenue from the specific piece in question. In other words, Forever 21 sees intellectual property infringement not as wrong, but simply as a cost of business. Not to mention, there is also the unspoken acceptance of counterfeiting. While brands combat counterfeiting, many corporations are clandestinely aware that their imitation means their brand carries a certain cachet. Marc Jacobs himself called counterfeiting “fantastic,” because “as long as I’ve been here, everything that we have done has been copied … We hope to create a product that is desirable.” Therein lies the perpetual struggle between those who create fashion and those who copy them. If no one copied luxury brands, would they be anywhere near as well known? If knockoffs were unavailable, would middle-market consumers buy the real thing anyway? While governments crack down on counterfeiting, counterfeiters will continue to get smarter and smarter. The only way to stop the counterfeit industry is for the economy to stop supporting it. The free market is at the mercy of the consumers, and while they continue to demand inexpensive luxuries, someone will continue to fill that demand.
An example of Forever 21’s spinoffs, this “Maven Top” (right) is priced at $17.80. Meanwhile, Anna Sui’s “Striped Rose Dress” (left) from Fall 2007 sold for hundreds of dollars. Berfield, Susan. “Forever 21’s Fast (and Loose) Fashion Empire.” Business Week. 20 January 2011. http://businessweek.com Sauers, Jenna. “Forever 21’s Bizarre Knockoff Empire.” Jezebel. 24 Jan 2011. http://jezebel.com Thomas, Dana. Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster “What is Intellectual Property?” World Intellectual Property Organization. 2011. http://www.wipo.int.
what do NIKE and DU sustainability.
“So let me ask you this. If you watched Duke play . . . did their uniforms look any different than anyone else’s uniforms?” Lorrie Vogel, General Manager of Nike Considered, offered this factoid when I asked if Nike’s sustainable products looked different from the regular ones. Little did I know that for the entire season our very own men’s basketball team had been wearing uniforms made from 100% recycled polyester. Designed by Nike, these uniforms exemplify Duke’s commitment to sustainability. The Duke Center for Sustainability and Commerce , a research division of Duke’s Nicholas Institute for Environmental Policy Solutions, and Nike are both founding members of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, launched earlier this year. Other members of the coalition include the Environmental Defense Fund, the Outdoor Industry Association, REI, Target, Marks & Spencers, Gap, and many more. These members collaborate to develop a non-competitive sustainability index that will help the apparel industry create sustainable products. Nike is at the forefront of the sustainable apparel movement, and I was honored to speak with Vogel. Considered Design is not one of Nike’s product lines, but rather “an ethos of the company.” It’s
The Products niform
all U b t e k s a eB
about “creating great performance products, but with a lower environmental footprint,” said Vogel. This includes reduction of toxins and waste, as well as using more environmentally friendly materials. One way Nike achieves this goal is with the Considered Index, a software that measures a product’s sustainability. As soon as designers start sketching a product, this tool gives them instant feedback on how sustainable the finished product will be. The designer then inputs the product’s specifications and the tool will evaluate the design choices and suggest the possibility for better ones. While this process sounded impressive, I was still curious as to how an artistic designer would use the tool: would it disrupt the flow of creativity? And what would come first, the sustainable materials or the aesthetic design? The way in which the designer actually interacts with the tool varies, Vogel explained. One designer might sketch first and then plug the details into the tool. Another designer might prefer to choose a fabric first and design the products pieces around that material. The tool is “teaching them how to make better choices,” Vogel said. And better choices are important, especially regarding material. Materials are the largest contributor to Nike’s impact on the environment, forming 60% of their environmental footprint. Evaluating these materials using the Index tool involves four key areas: waste, water, toxins, and energy. The
Trash Talk Shoe Nike’s Trash Talk shoe, the first performance basketball shoe to give a second life to waste generated in the production process.
UKE have in common? Index tool also takes into account the dying and finishing of the materials. The fewer processes used to finish the material, the lower the impact. I was happy to learn that although all these aspects of sustainability affect the aesthetic design in some way, it is not noticeable on the consumer’s end. Nike does not want the consumer to believe that sustainable means a decrease in quality. “Performance and sustainability have to be at the highest level,” Vogel told me. In the end, the Considered Index tool assigns the product a score, which Nike uses to determine whether the company is meeting its sustainability goals, which Vogel called “considered targets.” As of this year all of Nike’s footwear hit its baseline standard. This meant a 20% increase in Nike’s footwear use of environmentally preferred materials and a 19% reduction in waste—“that’s the equivalent of annually not producing 15 million uppers of shoes,” said Vogel. Nike plans to have all apparel hit their baseline standards by 2015 and all equipment by 2020. Nike has taken big steps to move towards a sustainable apparel future. Ten years ago, every pair of shoes Nike created generated enough waste to make one more shoe. “Today we’ve cut that waste in half and two thirds of that waste is recycled,” Vogel shared. Nike is committed to finding ways to reincorporate waste back into the products. One resourceful shoe was born after a designer visited Rubber from the outsole, foam from the midsole, and fabric from the upper of recycled shoes are ground into Nike Grind, used in the construction of athletic surfaces and new shoes. Since the birth of Reuse-A-Shoe in 1990, Nike has recycled more than 21 million pairs of athletic shoes which have contributed to hundreds of sport surfaces.
the factory floor and saw the quantity of waste created from cutting out pieces and parts. The result was the Trash Talk, a performance basketball sneaker with an upper created from factory floor waste. However Nike’s ultimate goal, said Vogel, is really to reduce the waste generated, eliminating the need to reuse excess material.
Nike’s dedication to sustainability prompted the industry release of a web-based version of the Considered Apparel Index, now externally called the Environmental Apparel Design Tool. The company “hopes that it will start to accelerate sustainable innovation,” Vogel elaborated. Nike also shared its Index with the Sustainable Apparel Coalition. In doing so, Vogel believes “there could be a great collaboration.” Vogel is hopeful that in the future more apparel companies, including those that make trendy items like jeans, will also make use of measurement tools and become more sustainable. Nike’s Considered Design and the Sustainable Apparel Coalition’s work make me hopeful that there will be such a future. Our very own Blue Devils are already wearing uniforms made of recycled materials. Before you know it, all of us will be as well. But until then, all you sneakerheads can satisfy your cravings with Nike kicks, all Considered Design. And the next time you need to buy a new pair of running shorts, you know where to go for the lowest environmental impact.
by Hannah Anderson-Baranger Lorrie
GM of Nike’s Considered Design
In a fashion climate where brands spend millions of dollars on advertisements, celebrity endorsements are a major part of many ad campaigns – and for good reason. According to a CNN report, studies show that celebrity endorsements can increase brand sales by more than twenty percent. The general consensus among fashion marketers seems to be that the a celebrity image will be more effective in imprinting a brand’s name in consumers rather than the face of an unfamiliar model. Potential customers, upon seeing the advertisement, will associate the personality and status of the celebrity with the fashion brand itself. Flipping through any magazine, it is clear how ubiquitous this tactic has become. Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring/Summer 2010 ad campaign featured Madonna performing a series of household chores, but dressed in excessive glamour – an obvious yet charming attempt on Dolce and Gabbana’s part to form a connection between Madonna and the women they are targeting as their potential customers. In a recent New York Times piece, “The Celebrity Endorsement Game,” Ruth La Ferla summarizes the dynamic of celebrity endorsements: “Fashion companies today are so reliant on endorsers that they practice celebrity speed-dating, courting and then discarding stars with increasing rapidity.” La Ferla points out the irony of such a system:
WHAT’S IN A NAME?
“Paradoxically the phenomenon is gathering steam in an era when celebrities have never been more tarnished by overexposure.” Society’s obsession with celebrities seems to have reached an all-time high. Popular websites like Perez Hilton and Just Jared function as super-tabloids, and are updated frequently throughout the day. They document each and every move of Hollywood’s A-listers, in addition to perpetuating celebrity gossip. Naturally, luxury fashion brands have tapped into this widespread obsession. However, they aren’t the only ones benefitting from an association with high-profile celebrities. Recently, a woman named Charlotte Todd raked in $125,853 auctioning off a dress she designed for a class project while a student at St. Andrews University, and which had taken less than $50 to produce. Why the sudden rise in value? Kate Middleton, who was also a student there at the time, wore the dress in a charity fashion show in 2002, where she allegedly first caught the eye of Prince William. The excitement of owning something that a celebrity would – or did – wear is enough to prompt some rather expensive purchases. But is this easily exploited fascination with celebrities something to be proud of? I urge our generation to explore the concept of fashion as a form of self-expression, rather than imitation. Our fashion choices reflect the way that we interpret art and beauty, and part of what makes fashion so interesting is how it differs from person to person, as we each have our own individual sense of style. So, I pose the question for reflection: why mimic celebrities? If you’re still unsure, look to Greek philosopher Epictetus: “Know, first, who you are; and then adorn yourself accordingly.”
by: Lauren Acampora
photo courtesy of google images
the story of the hipster
As a student majoring in Cultural Anthropology and a fashion enthusiast, it is no surprise that my interests would eventually collide. In a discussion on Levi-Strauss and structuralism during my Theoretical Foundations class, the topic shifted to our understanding of social outliers; those individuals who fall beyond the neat categories of identification. Embedded into our conversation on sub-culture and the rejection of norms was the term “hipster.” Perhaps more interesting was the almost tangible question mark looming over my professor’s head as she inquired, “A what? What is a hipster?” Our collective attempts to provide meaningful and helpful insight into the source of her confusion mixed together terms such as skinny jeans, cool, trendy, fixed gear bikes, Portland, and coffee shops. As more and more examples flew into the ever-expanding descriptive box, I contemplated why the word was so evasive. I too found myself scratching my head in an uncomfortable puzzling state. What exactly is the so-called hipster and why does it seem to change according to those who perceive it? And how does it mean everything all at once yet nothing at all? Undeniably, to be labeled a hipster or label another as such implies something about one’s appearance. Although the term gets tangled with politics, social structures, and ideology, it connotes a heavy emphasis on sartorial qualities. When one begins an exploration of the hipster it almost always starts with or includes a look at fashion. The hipster, intentionally or unintentionally, has an interesting take on style. As the name suggests, being “hip” is a requirement, and stepping outside of the “boring and bland” mold is obligatory. While narrower categories such as bohemian, grunge, or indie may also define the modern hipster, the disparity between these groups show that the hipster’s fashion sense lies outside of one particular movement. It is impossible to list exactly what hipsters wear and how they wear their clothes. What is more important, however, is how we understand the hipster in relation to the fashion world. On one hand, we see the hipster as foregoing a place in the fashion world. Hipsters reject the elitism of the industry and wish to align their loyalties to “low-culture.” This means running from big name designers and opting for the thrifty and fun. Hipsters as such might pay tribute to the past in vintage shops or shop at stores such as Urban Outfitters which markets a
“down-to-earth” response to highbrow couture. The other kind of hipster might invest heavily in fashion. These hipsters live for the art and incorporate major labels into their daily wardrobe. They are attuned to changing trends and operate through “that was so last season” logic. Although their affiliation with fashion separates them from the layman’s hipster, they are both forced under the same umbrella term because of their penchant for statement making. But bottom line, the hipster is a fashionista/o in his or her own right. Just as there is duality in the hipster, opinion regarding the persona is also limited to two options. Often, the term hipster itself is used pejoratively and signifies something inauthentic. For some, hipsters are the butt of all jokes and are blamed for mocking the industry. Accused of mindless rebellion, hipsters allegedly subscribe to the same fashion template and lack originality. To others, the hipster is the target of obsession. With blogs like The Sartorialist and Street Peeper, viewers fawn over the unique fashion explorations of the hipster and look to them as the makers of personal style. Hipsters seen from this perspective are admired and have become the fashion icons of our time. But due to such confusion whether to denigrate or worship the hipster, the term is rendered ambivalent and takes up residence in an odd fashion limbo. Under the structuralist view of culture, humans have a need to separate the objects in their world into distinct opposing categories. The ways in which one views the hipster exemplify such tendencies. In the fashion world, one relates to him/her in an either-or manner. The hipster must be a fashion aficionado or else deny all ties to the industry. One must love hipsters or else loathe them. Our fascination with figuring people out subjects the hipster to such black and white terms. We miss the big picture. People are never fixed objects and simply do not fit the binary model. Therefore, defining the hipster is useless. Instead, we should leave the hipster to move in tandem with the unpredictable nature of fashion. To steal a line from the Beatles, “let it be.” Whether actively participating in fashion, shunning it, or lying somewhere in the abyss between the two extremes, the hipster will always have a unique place. One should not seek to comprehend the hipster but recognize the hipster persona as another element that makes fashion the multifaceted, living, and sensational art form that it is.
by: C.C. Croxton
Sophomore year I made a vow with a friend of mine to explore more of downtown Durham. Our journey led us to a number of wonderful places we still frequent today. But a standout is Beyú Caffé, located on West Main Street (the same street as Devine’s and Alivia’s). Founded by a Duke grad in 2005, the restaurant/bar/café has been a huge success right from the start.
Beyú is an incredibly well-rounded eatery. Go for breakfast, lunch or dinner. With the free wireless, you can sit around and enjoy of their ridiculously amazing coffee concoctions and a snack while getting some work done. I promise you won’t see any Duke people there, so no temptation for distraction! You can even go to simply hang out at the beautifully stocked bar and catch the live jazz late night on weekends. Beyú’s low-key cool is set by the darker wall and furniture tones. I enjoy the variety of seating options– bar, couch/chair or table – so I can mix it up if I’m working there for several hours. The crowd is 100% local, which gives it a friendly neighborhood feel. The quick and easy service is done number style: you walk to the counter, place an order, take a number to your table and then your food is brought to you. Same applies for coffee.
Café and Breakfast
335 West Main Street Durham, NC (919) 683-1058
On the topic of coffee, Beyú has some of the best in Durham. They truly take pride in their roasts, and are more than happy to elaborate on the qualities of each. The bar offers an extensive menu of coffee and noncoffee creations with and without a little extra something-something. To sum it up, they’ve got every drink you could ever think of from fresh fruit smoothies to multiple different types of spiked hot cocoa and coffee to specialty shots and frostaccinos. My favorite non-alcoholic is the Eminem Mocha ($3.50). Yeah, you guessed it: it’s an espresso with white chocolate and steamed milk. Of the spiked variety I enjoy the Yorkshire Hathaway: coffee with butterscotch schnapps,
Irish cream, chocolate and coffee liqueur with whipped cream ($6.50). I always opt to order smalls or “poco” as Beyú has dubbed them—they’re about the same size as a Starbucks Venti… not small at all. The bakery case is always fully stocked with the best of the best: homemade chocolate truffles off all varieties, brownies, lemon bars, a million kinds of cheesecake (Pumpkin, Caramel Toffee…), cookies (Red Velvet, Oatmeal Raisin…), and, most importantly, cakes (ranging from $1.95 to $4.95). The first time I ever ate at Beyú was between lunch and dinner. A friend and I took one look at the cake case and burst into a heated argument: German Chocolate or Harvey Wallbanger (both $4.95 for a mega slice)? I went the Harvey route. The Harvey Wallbanger is made to taste like a popular and potent cocktail from the 70’s, heavy in vodka and limoncello. Beyú’s cake is light, lemony and smooth with a delicate lemon cake and a buttercream-limoncello frosting sent direct from heaven. I kid you not. I can’t speak for the German Chocolate— though my friend raved for weeks saying it was better than her Grandmother’s—because I’ve never ordered anything but the Harvey. It was love at first bite.
Lunch and Dinner After all this coffee and baked goods hype, you may think it impossible that Beyú’s brunch, lunch and dinner menus could compare. At least that’s what I had originally assumed, but I stand corrected. All of their menus feature farm fresh local ingredients, which is basically a guarantee of deliciousness. For breakfast they offer a wide assortment of options. I always gravitate towards savory and go for the croissant sandwiches, which are available with all combinations of bacon, sausage, ham, cheese, eggs ($3.95 - $5.95) and salmon, cream cheese and red onion ($7.90). One of my friends is a diehard breakfast burrito fan because he can eat steak and call it breakfast. The burrito has about seven add-on options, so it is impossible to get bored by eating the same one twice ($4.50-$9.50). Lunch-wise, you’ll never catch me eating a salad so I can’t speak to the quality of their extensive options, however,
the Southwestern Spicy Chicken Salad ($8.95) may be one I would enjoy if I ever were to experiment with rabbit food (I actually do feel this way about salads but I don’t discriminate against salad eaters). I am a mega-huge wing fan, and Beyú’s wings are dynamite, both the house and buffalo variety (both $7). Another favorite is Beyú’s spin on the Croque Monsieur ($7.95). You may have noticed that I raved about Vin Rouge’s melty load of deliciousness in my previous column. That’s because when you take a ham and cheese sandwich, add béchamel and mustard, then more melty cheese, then heat it up, there is really no possible way you could go wrong. The lunch menu also has several lighter sandwich and entrée options including a grilled chicken sandwich in a pita ($6.50), a fresh veggie platter ($6.50), oysters ($6.95 a halfdozen), and a selection of daily soups at market price. One of the best parts about dinner at Beyú is that service runs until 11pm, so if you’re running behind on work but still want to treat yourself to a bite out, Beyú is a great place to go. The dinner menu is also chock-full-of vegan and vegetarian options, for those who go down that route. Their menu is incredibly diverse featuring everything from Vegetable Thai Green Curry ($6.95) for vegetarians and vegans to individual gourmet pizzettes ($7.95-$8.95). I always love the Cajun Drunken Shrimp ($8.95) with saffron rice and beer broth. The assertive spice of the shrimp floating in the hearty and tummy warming broth beautifully complements the aromatic saffron in the rice, which soaks up all the wonderful juices. This is a truly luxurious dish presented in a comforting and homey way. I also order a side of the sautéed veggies ($2.50) so I get in some extra crunch and goodness. For dessert be sure to have the New Orleans Bread Pudding ($4.95) with whiskey crème anglaise… are you noticing a pattern yet? Spiked is better.
by Kate Salzman
photography by tracy huang
jon bedell, 2012
rachel fleder, 2014
chelsea pieroni, 2014 keoni kaâ€™ilimai, 2014
b e h i n d t h e s c e n es
for more visit www.dukefashion.org
Special thanks to...
108 Meadowmont Village Circle Chapel Hill, NC (919) 967-6830
of Chapel Hill
1112 Environ Way Chapel Hill, NC (919) 537-8264
402 West Franklin Street Chapel Hill, NC (919) 960-5005
1000 West Main St. Durham, NC (919) 428-4965
CLOTHING CREDITS How to Wear On Samantha [4, left to right]: Jacket, Kate Pobuda; T-shirt, Kate Pobuda; Shoes, Kate Pobuda; Headband, Kate Pobuda. Top, Kat Franklin; Shoes, Samantha Mackson. Blazer, Alexa Franco; Tank, Kate Yang; Shoes, Kate Yang. On Robert [5, left to right]: Sweater, Robert Mihalik; Pants, Robert Mihalik. Sweater, David Kim; Blazer, David Kim; Jeans, Robert Mihalik; Belt, David Kim. T-shirt, David Kim; Shorts, Urban Outfitters; Belt, David Kim. Accessories Yellow : Bag, Dani Dawkins; Ring, Caroline Long; Bracelets, Caroline Culbertson; Watch, Caroline Long. Purple : Shoes, Kat Franklin; Bracelets, Monkee’s, Kate Yang, Rachel Bowley. Brown : Shoes, Kate Pobuda. Bracelets, Kate Pobuda, Caroline Long. Green : Shoes, Monkee’s; Ring, Caroline Long; Watch, Kat Franklin. Runway Our Way On Noelle : Blazer, Abby Mathieson; Dress, Kate Yang; Skirt, Kat Franklin; Shoes, Kate Yang; Necklace, Kate Pobuda. On Felix : Shirt, Felix Weinberg; Jacket, David Kim; Shorts, Felix Weinberg. Scarf, David Kim; Hat, David Kim. Tea Party On Liz : Dress, Rodarte for Target; Shoes, Rosa Toledo; Earrings, Mona Ascha; Ring, Mona Ascha. On Allie : Top, Monkee’s; Skirt, Dani Dawkins; Shoes, Caroline Long; Necklace, Mona Ascha. On Rosa : Dress, Hadley Emerson; Skirt, Dani Dawkins; Shoes, Rosa Toledo; Bracelet, Caroline Long. On Beth : Top, Taylor Jones; Skirt, Dani Dawkins; Bandeau, Kate Yang; Shoes, Beth Feldman. On Rosa : Top, Dani Dawkins; Pants, Dani Dawkins; Shoes, Beth Feldman; Hat, Dani Dawkins. On Liz : Tank, Mona Ascha; Skirt, Urban Outfitters; Belt, Kate Yang; Hat, Dani Dawkins; Bracelet, Kate Yang; Shoes, Dani Dawkins. On Allie : Shirt, TJMaxx; Shorts, TJMaxx; Socks, Kate Yang; Shoes, Caroline Long; Hat, Monkee’s; Bag, Caroline Long; Rings, Mona Ascha. On Beth : Romper, Monkee’s; Shoes, Beth Feldman; Necklace, Kate Yang. On Rosa : Dress, Hadley Emerson; Shoes, Rosa Toledo; Necklace, Caroline Long. On Liz : Dress, Dress Shop Necklace, Kate Yang; Flower pin, Kate Yang.
The FORM staff wishes you a great summer break!
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