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FORM Editor in Chief Mona Ascha Executive Editor Caroline Long FASHION Directors David Kim, Kate Pobuda Styling Camila Vignaud Assistants Alexa Galan, Abby Mathieson, Betsy Santoyo, Kate Yang ART Layout Director Hilah Almog Layout Assistant Blair Melocik Photography Libby Busdicker, Liz Friedland, Gray Lyons, Robert Wainblat EDITORIAL Contributing Writers Lauren Acampora, Hannah Anderson-Baranger, Ali Bahrynian, Morgan Beard, Taylor Bloom, Libby Busdicker, CC Croxton, Sabrina Hamilton-Payne, Finn Leslie, Hannah Long, Blair Melocik, Kate Pobuda, Kate Salzman, Chloe Marie Songer, Genevieve Werner, Amanda Young, Taylor Zakarin Copy Kyra Socolof, Jake Stanley WEB Designer Aaron Rales Blog Editor Genevieve Werner PR-MARKETING Stormie Leoni, Jessica Stark Special thanks to Matthew Atkins, Connel Fullenkamp, Juline Chevalier, Mike Lefevre, Sarah Lytvinenko, Samara Reynolds, Kristine Stiles, Marialana Weitzel

Printed by Atkins Publishing & Processing Funded in part by the Undergraduate Publications Board of Duke University


in this issue Spring 2011

4 Trends 8 Look for Less 9 This Month with FORM 10 Student Spotlight 12 Faculty Spotlight 14 Shopping Report 16 Dress to Impress 19 Celebrity Inspired Beauty 26 Raleigh Denim 28 DIY: Decorate Your Converse 30 Fashion Week 32 Opinion A Fashion Alliance

Smooth Sailing for Silk Industry

34 Duke Through the Decades 48 The Lure of Luxury 50 FORM Sustains 54 Dining in Durham: Vin Rouge 56 Campus Candids


letter from the editor Hello fashionistas and fashionistos, After a semester away from Duke, I think I reflect the sentiments of the FORM staff when I say that it feels good to be back! While I loved being exposed to global fashion and new cultures, I surprisingly found myself craving chips and guac from the Dillo (side note: Europe really needs to learn how to capitalize on the late night fast food industry). The rest of the staff and I eagerly began production on this issue even before we were physically back on campus, and with new members on our team with lots of energy, we cannot wait to share all of the amazing things we have planned! In this issue, we go back in time and look at prominent trends across a number of decades, from the flirtatious flapper of the 1920s to the angst and grunge of the 1990s. This photoshoot was particularly enjoyable because the trends we highlighted for each decade have recently come back in style. Strong shoulders from the 80s, fringe from the 20s, and high waisted pants from the 70s have all reincorporated themselves into today’s mainstream fashion world. Sartorial history has a cunning way of repeating itself-except I’m glad we stayed away from overalls and MC Hammer pants.

Mona at the Leaning Tower of Pisa

Rather than having a unique style of its own, the first decade of the new millennium was a mélange of the preceding century. That being said, I look forward to what the 10s have in store-it’s pretty weird that we’re in the 10s, right? Maybe crinolines and powdered wigs will come back into fashion-Marie Antoinette is one of my favorite style icons after all. Much like the fashion world, I feel that FORM is constantly changing and evolving, building upon the old to make something new. With several name changes, a few website templates, and now three issues, we’ve taken our past achievements and recreated them to make something new and freshand now we’re finally in print! I don’t want to get all mushy, but I am truly proud of how far our team has come and how we’ve been able to improve ourselves each day to become something really great. I hope you enjoy this issue just as much as I did in creating it! Stay chic,

Mona

3


FORM market

Sheer Madness

2

1

Madewell Blouse, $95

Calvin Klein Bra, $44

3

American Apparel Tank, $22

5

6

4

Nasty Gal Tights, $18

Topshop Dress, $110 Rag and Bone Dress, $199

4

and that’s the long and sheer of it...


ADAM Skirt, $495

Maison Martin Margiela Clutch, $1415

3

2

ModCloth Necklace, $39.99

5 6

eat your heart out, Natalie Portman

1

feathers

Topshop Sweater, $50

4

Urban Outfitters Earrings, $29

ModCloth Tights, $29.99

Feathers: as controversial as fur? E-mail us your thoughts - info@dukefashion.org


DESIGNER

technology

2

1 3 4 6

CHECK OUT THESE IPHONE/ IPAD APPS: Gucci, Vogue Stylist, Dior, Mulberry, HermĂŠs

5

1. Jimmy Choo trent leather iPhone case $195 2. Marc by Marc Jacobs speakers $58 3. Yves Saint Laurent patent leather iPad case $595 4. Marc by Marc Jacobs color pop headphones $68 5. Alexander McQueen skull-print laptop case $395


PRIMARY colors 6 1 5

2

7

3 4

Be the primary focus

8 9

1. Rag & Bone blazer $625 2. Alternative Apparel t-shirt $24 3. Topman pants in sea blue $69 4. Sperry Top-Sider $85 5. Topman t-shirt $28 6. Moncler jacket $1601 7. American Apparel pants in poppy $74 8. Swatch watch $65 9. Tom’s Venetian drivers $395

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FORM market

runway

our way: $98

Utility Vest, J.Crew

$38 Bright on Romper, Modcloth

$15 Charlotte Ronson S/S, 2011

Cream lace trim knee socks, Topshop

$31

Leatherette Folded Cuff Booties, Forever 21

each piece under

$100

$10 Lavish Panel Bracelet, Forever 21


this month with FORM For those who missed it, we hosted a fashion show to celebrate the opening of a new Nasher exhibit. Sponsored by the museum and the Center for Documentary Studies, “The Jazz Loft Project” is a collection of photographs and recordings of some of the jazz world’s greatest legends. Be sure to check out this exciting display, free with a student ID from now until July 10, 2011. For more Behind the Scenes photos, check out our website: dukefashion.org

Want to model for FORM? Attend our open Casting Call March 18th!

We can’t seem to get enough froyo so thank goodness Local Yogurt is opening a new location in Erwin Terrace. Wednesdays are $1 off with your college ID.

With stereomood.com you choose a playlist based on how you’re feeling and listen away! My favorite playlists are “Sunday Morning” and “Just Woke Up.” Pinterest.com is a digital bulletin board that keeps track of all my inspiration photos. You can share with friends and also categorize by theme.

CAROLINE LONG

MONA ASCHA

EDITOR OBSESSIONS


FORM student spotlight BIOGRAPHY:

YEAR: Senior COURSE OF STUDY: Public Policy, Energy and the Environment certificate HOMETOWN: Philadelphia AFTER DUKE: I’m looking for a strategic planning job in railroading next year. Yep, literally working with freight trains. I’ve always liked railroads, and now I get to make a career out of them. Not too many Duke students tell that to the Career Center. NOTEWORTHY: I’m DSG President, but I don’t always like to let that define me. INTERESTS: commercial boats, Miami Vice series from the 80s, Parks and Recreation, snowboarding

MIKE LEFEVRE YOUR FASHION STYLE

The Brooks Brothers head to Italy for spring break.

MOST WILLING TO SPLURGE ON

A good tie clip. It keeps the tie from hanging in front of me like a metronome when I lean forward, and it’s one of the few things I can wear to give my dress clothes some character. That’s worth a few dough stacks.

FAVORITE PIECE IN YOUR CLOSET

My grandfather’s pastel plaid tie. Really anything that belonged to him. I find most clothes pretty boring, so I like to wear things that have a story to them.

HOW DSG AFFECTS YOUR STYLE

On a typical day I’m running to meetings in between my classes, so I have to find clothes that suit both environments. On the one hand I need to look professional, but on the other hand any one looks like a jerk wearing a tie to class. I try to avoid suits except when absolutely necessary, and it’s a

1o

great day if I get to wear a t-shirt. Fortunately khakis and an Oxford are like camouflage at Duke.

THE ESSENTIAL GO-TO OUTFIT

A green wool pullover hoodie—it takes the effort out of choosing a shirt, but doesn’t make me look homeless. Pair that with some khakis, and I’ve got something I could comfortably wear to class, a meeting, or Big Beers.

LEAST FAVORITE TREND

Justin Bieber’s hair. Or skinny jeans on dudes. Do I have to choose?

MOST ATTRACTIVE STYLE ON A GIRL

I used to drive a water taxi for a yacht club, and I have to say I’m a sucker for seersucker. I’ve always liked the preppy look because of its escapism— the carefree New England life of Ralph Lauren is entirely a fantasy, but navy blue skirts and madras shirts make me feel that, just for a moment, I can spend my whole life on Nantucket in August.

WHAT MIKE WEARS - PANTS: ABBIGLIAMENTO CONTEMPORANEO, VEST: BROOKS BROTHERS, SHIRT: BROOKS BROTHERS


student spotlight

FORM

BIOGRAPHY:

YEAR: Junior COURSE OF STUDY: Cultural Anthropology, French, Markets and Management certificate HOMETOWN: I am a native of Washington D.C. (the real D.C., not Maryland or Virginia). AFTER DUKE: Ever since I was little, I’ve had the aspiration to move to the vibrant city of New York and look for my creative niche in the fashion world. NOTEWORTHY: Member of Duke’s multi-cultural dance group Defining Movement. INTERESTS: discovering new blogs, DIY’ing, Dexter, and live performances

CC CROXTON YOUR FASHION STYLE

Dazed and confused. Seriously, the person-I-wasyesterday would look at the clothes that the person-I-am-today is wearing and say “What the..?”

WORST FASHION FAUX PAS

I’ve had many, but the one that comes to mind are these magenta/purplish mid calf length leggings that I still have for some odd reason. They’re such an awkward length and look good with absolutely nothing!

IDEAL FASHION INTERNSHIP

Even though it doesn’t limit itself to just fashion, I would love to intern for Nylon Magazine. I think Nylon relates to where I am right now in my life and I’m a big fan of its accessibility to young adults. It also indulges the hipster in me.

FAVORITE RECENT TREND

How to choose! I’d have to say really thick clunky heels. I love paying tribute to the late 60s-70s look and the platforms they wore were just unreal! Really skinny heels are a pet peeve of mine.

THE ESSENTIAL GO-TO OUTFIT

An oversized shirt, jeans or black leggings, knee high boots. Emphasis on the oversized top.

BEST ACCESSORY YOU OWN

My striped tan and brown wool beanie from Urban Outfitters. I got it so long ago and it’s really starting to show its age but I can never part with it. It’s my best friend on bad hair days (often) and it goes with everything-though most would disagree!

MOST VERSATILE PIECE IN YOUR CLOSET

I adore this old olive green military jacket that I got from a flea market in Paris. I wear it more times than not and I just recently added these colorful buttons with phrases on them. I love wearing it because it reminds me of the anti-war protest scene from Forrest Gump, one of my favorite movies. I feel like one of the many activists (in the movie and historically) rallying and ironically wearing their military jackets adorned by buttons and stickers with political slogans. Very revolutionary. - Hannah Long

WHAT CC WEARS - DRESS: THRIFTED, JACKET: EBAY, SHOES: THRIFTED, RING: FREDFLARE.COM, HAT: URBAN OUTFITTERS

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ON FULLENKAMP: Beau Tie Bow tie, Land’s End melton wool jacket (his favorite), Land’s End pinpoint oxford shirt

his favorite things: Beau ties of vermont ties

12

Bavarian

beer schnieder weiss

Doc marten wingtips


faculty spotlight

economics professor

connel fullenkamp Q: WHO OR WHAT INSPIRES YOU?

A: I find that I’m not inspired by individual people nearly as much as by art, literature, and sometimes even pop culture. But what inspires me most is music of different kindssongs, really, more than instrumentals. There’s nothing quite like the joy of hearing an incisive, witty, or provocative turn of phrase when it’s paired with an interesting beat or melody-even when the artist is a chump. We all shine on, eh? Q: WHAT IS THE LAST GOOD BOOK YOU READ?

A: I read Die Stadt der Trauemende Buecher by Walter Moers (City of Dreaming Books in English; I think you can get it in English now) last fall, which I thought was a good book because of the staggering imagination this guy has. In English, right now I’m finishing How I Killed Pluto and Why It Had It Coming. Q: WHAT IS YOUR DREAM VACATION?

A:I don’t know about “dream” vacation, because it sounds unattainable. But here’s what I like to do: go someplace pleasant but not too crowded for about a week or so, where there are a lot of mildly

White straw

summer hat

interesting things to look at, ideally within walking distance. Then I can walk around and enjoy looking at that or and hang out in cafes or read a book in my hotel room instead and not feel bad about missing out on something I really should see. If the area has good bakeries, that definitely helps too. For example, about a decade ago my wife and I spent spring break in Sevilla like that-yeah, just Sevilla. Q: WHAT TRAIT DO YOU DEPLORE IN YOURSELF?

A: I carry grudges. Q: WHAT TALENT WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO HAVE?

A: I go back and forth between really good guitar picking-like bluegrass or flamenco-and being able to pick up languages very easily.

FORM

the people in his administration either, but hear me out. Reagan made people optimistic again about America after a really, really profound set of political, military, and economic shocks to our national psyche had turned people extremely pessimistic and anxious about the future. He was genuine, and smarter than he looked. Q: WHAT IS YOUR TELEVISION GUILTY PLEASURE?

A. Definitely Tosh.0. It’s a guilty pleasure because he’s so mean-but he’s so good at it. I rationalize it by telling myself that he is only making fun of people who have voluntarily thrust themselves into the vortex. - LAUREN ACAMPORA

Q: WHAT FAMOUS PERSON DO YOU ADMIRE (LIVING OR DEAD)?

A: Hmm...there are lots of people I admire, for lots of different reasons. One of the people I admire the most is actually Ronald Reagan. Yeah, I wasn’t always crazy about his policies or some of

words to live by:

“try to take things just seriously enough”

1962 studebaker gt hawk

13


Magpie Shopping report:

A Diamond in Durham

By: Sabrina Hamilton-Payne

Quick Facts

In Chinese culture, the Magpie is a symbol of happiness. The singing of a Magpie denotes good luck, which was evident in my trip around Durham. Magpie Boutique is a hidden gem with its stylish lines, classic palate and eclectic jewelry. As you walk through the door there are nostalgic tunes broadcasting through speakers, comfortable colors to soothe your eyes, and clean lines to draw your attention to the clothes. If you’re looking for a showstopping sweater that lights up every outfit or if you’re in need of the perfect LBD, you’re guaranteed to find it here. I would especially recommend Magpie for people who are looking for dresses to wear to semi-formals and formals—the selection is cute, unique and relatively affordable. An interesting aspect beyond the clothes is the mix of miscellaneous accessories. Bath salts hang on the walls, and purses and wallets can be found on a table inside. They even have desk stationery. As the boutique manager told me, “At Magpie, you can find interesting options to put into your wardrobe.”

14

Customer

Price

Aesthetic

Location

From the Duke student preparing an interview outfit to the successful businesswoman in search of a cocktail dress.

$100 average but sales are frequent! (I managed to find an exquisite dress for $80—formal anyone?)

Colors range from neutral notes to interesting ethnic prints.

601 W. Main Street, Suite D
 Durham, NC 27701
 (919) 683 – 1981
 info@magpienc.com


Smitten

A Sweet Boutique

Many-a-time on my way down Main Street, I have come across Smitten, although I never managed to venture inside. However, this FORM assignment gave me the perfect opportunity to finally explore it. The colorful window displays, girly sign, and tongue-in-cheek name led me to believe that it was a quirky and dainty boutique. I walked into stacks of clothes scattered around the room, in shades of pinks and purples, but I couldn’t take my eyes away from the masses of jewelry. In nearly every corner, you are guaranteed to find a suitable piece for just about every birthday, anniversary, or just-because occasion that you could imagine. Perhaps if someone was willing to spend a good amount of time perusing the clothes, they might score a couple of stylish pieces, but on the whole it is not a boutique that I would recommend when looking for items to spice up a wardrobe. The visit to Smitten was not a lost cause, because I was enamored by the amazing accessory collection. There are some expensive pieces from Pandora if you’re looking for something special, but otherwise, more moderately priced items are available in all colors, shapes and sizes. If you want anything jewelry related, Smitten is your stop, or you can just enjoy the pink window displays on your way back from Shooters.

Price

Aesthetic

Location

Suited more to an older crowd but if you have the time you can sift through to find the good stuff.

Jewelry from $20 to $60.

Fabulous baubles and accessories.

1105 West Main Street
 Durham, NC 27701
 (919)-530-1000
 besmitten@thesmittenboutique.com

Quick Facts

Customer

15


FORM advice

dress to impress what to wear to score an internship

You have had your eyes set on that dream job ever since the beginning of college. After spending hours poring over the application, reading it over and over again until you’ve memorized every line of your resume, you press submit, praying that someone will read it and think, “This is the perfect applicant.” Then, a week later, you get an interview! But what are you going to wear? Don’t worry! Duke career advisor, Samara Reynolds, shares her interview tips.

1. do your research

Make sure that you look at the company website before going into the interview so that you can market yourself according to the company’s interests. Also, write notes on things that you want to remember to bring up during your interview. “The ‘tell me about yourself’ question will be asked in one way or another,” Reynolds says, “so you should remember the stories that will show key components that you want an employer to know about you.”

2. follow their lead

Try to express the same level of formality that your interviewer expresses. “Mirror the posture and voice volume of your interviewer,” Reynolds advises. “If they’re leaning forward, lean forward. If they’re casual, do the same.”

3. invest in a suit

Everyone should own a good suit that can be worn in any type of interview. “Pants suits or suits with skirts are good for girls,” Reynolds said. “Wear something that is kneelength, because you should be more on the conservative side.”

4. keep your fashion focused

Sometimes bold patterns can spice up an outfit, but be careful in an interview setting. “Crazy patterns can be distracting,” Reynolds notes. “And nothing distracts [more than] earrings that move. Keep things simple.”

5. represent the company

For second-round interviews, try to mirror the same type of clothing that people in the company wear. “For example, in engineering firms, if they wear khakis and polos, wear that same kind of thing,” Reynolds says. “However, it’s never a bad idea to be overdressed.” Also, if you’re applying for a job at a clothing store, make sure to wear their brand.

6. if you’re unsure, ask!

Feel free to call the human resources office of the company and ask for outfit recommendations. “On a company’s website, there may be an indicator of what to wear, or you can talk with the recruiter,” Reynolds says.

FORM’S AMANDA YOUNG SHOWS YOU A RANGE OF OUTFITS THAT WILL GIVE YOU CONFIDENCE TO ACE ANY INTERVIEW WHETHER IT’S FOR MICROSOFT OR VOGUE STILL NERVOUS? CONTACT OUR PERSONAL SHOPPER AT BLOG.DUKEFASHION.ORG

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fa s h i o n REFLECT YOUR PERSONAL STYLE

RELAXED AND FRESH

ngo FASHION - dress: ModCloth $67.99, necklace: ASOS $14.34, bangles: Antik Batik $70, bag: Alexander Wang $825, shoes: Zara $89.90 • NGO - cardigan: Red Valentino $650, chino pant: Vince $195, bag: Marc Jacobs $528, flats: Steve Madden $59.95


G

corporate POWER MEETS STYLE

A GEEK WITH GOOD TASTE

technology CORPORATE - jacket: Topshop $185, blouse: Theory $225, pants: Stella McCartney $525, bag: T. Anthony $295, watch: Michael Kors $250, shoes: Topshop $90 • TECHNOLOGY - blazer: Topshop $125, shirt: Rag & Bone $185, Trouser: Topshop $85, bag: Zara $79.90, pumps: Jessica Simpson $78.95


GET THE LOOK

CELEBRITY INSPIRED BEAUTY

PHOTOGRAPHY: LIZ FRIEDLAND MAKEUP/HAIR: ABBY MATHIESON, BETSY SANTOYO


Sienna Miller

when the weather gets warmer, opt for a beachy braid and bronze cheeks


Rihann

a

don’t be afraid of a b o l d lip and a dramatic eye


Scarlett

Johansson

the classic red lip never goes out of style


Kim Kar dash

ian

achieve come-hither eyes with black liner and some falsies


n

erspoo Reese With

a neutral eye with a rosy glow is just enough for class or meetings


Katy Perry

play with c o l o r by layering different shadows across your lids


RaleighDenim An Interview With

By: Taylor Bloom

While the rules of fashion are constantly changing, you can’t go wrong with denim. One would be hard-pressed to find a top, accessory, or shoe that clashes with this classic item. Jeans are and always have been the “it” wardrobe staple, and for good reason. They can be dressed up or down, and finding the perfect pair can transform not only an outfit, but also a mind set. Luckily for us Duke students, one of the highest quality denim brands has their factory located right here in Raleigh. Husband-wife duo Victor and Sarah Lytvinenko are the owners and designers of the company Raleigh Denim, whose jeans are sold through renowned retailers like Barney’s in New York City. The couple built their own manufacturing facility and now oversees the production of each pair of jeans. Their overall dedication and care for the jeans they create is truly inspiring, and restores faith in an industry that has a superficial reputation. FORM spoke with Sarah herself for insight on her downto-earth yet refreshingly energized style.

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Q: How did you meet your husband Victor?

A: Our best friends were dating in high school and they got a group together to watch the 1998 World Cup. The rest is history.

Q: How did you get started in the denim business? Did you always know you wanted to work in the fashion industry?

A: We didn’t always know we wanted to work in the fashion industry specifically, but we’ve always known we wanted to design and had a hunch we’d work for ourselves at some point. We got started by making jeans for Victor. It was a personal project during some down time, and it just kind of snowballed into our label.

Q: What inspires you?

A: Inspiration comes from everywhere: juxtapositions (old + new, soft + hard, strong + delicate, industrial + natural) family photos, rusty objects, LPs, uniforms (especially military and marching band), bicycles, history, and architecture.


Q: Who is your target customer?

A: Someone who wears Raleigh Denim is adventurous, conscientious, thoughtful, tough-but-polished, get-itdone types, movers, shakers, doers. People who wear Raleigh are aware of details, respect artisans and craftsmen, seek quality, think long-term, appreciate a well-made basic and make it their own.

Q: Why Raleigh?

A: It’s our hometown, our support system. North Carolina has a rich denim and textile history, so there are some really great resources here.

Q: What are your future plans?

A: We are in the process of expanding to a full line of men and women’s apparel. We are also coming out with leather goods and bags. Those will hit stores this fall, but we will have some in our local store, the Curatory, pretty soon.

Q: What is your favorite spot in the Raleigh/Durham area to relax?

A: Parks, museums, concerts, dinner with friends. Fraizers, Pooles, Foundation and Kings are favorite Raleigh spots and Vin Rouge in Durham.

Q: What advice would you give students looking to break into the fashion industry? A: Just get started. Start learning, making, asking questions, doing...college professors are amazing supporters and wonderful resources, so take advantage of the network you have now.

Another reason to buy Raleigh Denim? Sarah and Victor personally sign each pair of jeans. Q: How do you and Victor work together in the business?

Q: What is most important when designing and creating a pair of jeans? A: Fit. Construction quality. Material.

Q: What differentiates your jeans from other popular brands?

A: The most obvious difference is that we built our own production facility so that we could make our jeans our way, and so we could be present during that process, able to respond, improve, correct, oversee as much as possible. We take the building of our jeans quite seriously, and believe that how things are made is as important as the thing that’s made. We’re accessible and transparent; you can walk in and see things from start to finish in our workshop. The other really important thing is our fit. Am I allowed to say it’s really great?

Q: Do you have a favorite fashion blog or magazine?

A: Need Supply Co. in Richmond, VA has a really wonderful blog. Check it out at blog.needsupply.com

TheHappyCouple

photo credit: Nick Pironio

A: We both have a hand in every aspect of the business. There are certainly things that one of us is a little stronger at than the other, but we share most of the responsibilities.


diy: decorate your Converse Chuck Taylors are a classic, everyday shoe—nearly all of us how to make a seemingly ordinary pair of shoes stand out.

materials:

- 1 PAIR OF CONVERSE SHOES (or any type of sneaker; paint pens work on a variety of shoes) - OPAQUE PAINT MARKERS (available at Michaels, AC Moore, or other craft suppliers) * if you feel more comfortable, you can use acrylic paint and a small brush instead of pens

1.

I always start by figuring out what color/style Cons I want for my collection before I decide on a design. Obviously high tops are a bigger canvas so that’s something to think about when it’s time to plan your design. The color choice will also affect your decision. Once you’ve decided on your shoes, you can start thinking about what you might want to illustrate and how you want to arrange it within the available and irregularly shaped space of the shoe.

The Process

2.

Once you pick a design or object that you want to recreate, take some photos or do a Google image search to collect ideas. If you are trying to render an object on your shoes (in my case it’s feathers), it might be helpful to see a drawing instead of a photograph, which may be too complicated to translate onto shoes.

3.

Next, make a sketch of what the final product might look like. This will help you figure out the right arrangement and give you an idea of how it will look on a shoe. If you find you have to rethink your original idea a little at this point, that’s ok. Before you permanently mark your shoes, I’d recommend doing a light, vague sketch in pencil. It’s nice to have barely visible guidelines when you get started.


diy

converse

FORM

us have a pair in our closets. Morgan Beard, Trinity ’12, shows

AFTER

BEFORE

4.

Go to an art store and pick up your paint pens. Get as many colors as you think you’ll need. Even though I do it, I recommend trying to avoid using white or a color significantly lighter than the shoe color. It won’t be perfectly opaque and you will have to go over your lines a million times. If your heart is set on a color that is likely to not show up, you might want to consider an acrylic paint and tiny brush instead. Also, make sure that the tip size of your markers is appropriate before you buy them.

5.

When painting, the most important things to remember are to paint slowly and carefully—there is no rush—and not to get discouraged when things inevitably aren’t perfect. My shoes never come out the way I plan. It’s important to adjust the plan as you go and have fun!

6.

Another important thing to mention before you put the pen to the canvas is that the shoes will not look exactly like what you imagine. This could be true in a positive or negative sense, but it’s important to remember that it will look different 3D, in color, and in a different medium. Don’t let this stop you. Experiment, have fun, and be flexible when it comes time to actually paint.


FORM fashion week report: Fall 2011

below the knee

donna karan

rodarte

diane von furstenberg

victoria beckham

Rejecting the miniskirt, designers dramatically dropped hemlines for fall with skirts and dresses reaching a new calf-length. While Donna Karan channeled maturity, Diane von Furstenberg and Rodarte maintained a youthful approach to this more sophisticated cut by using bold colors and patterns. Of course Victoria Beckham achieved a contemporary cut-conservative shouldn’t compromise sexy.

the new tuxedo

ralph lauren

phillip lim

alexander wang

jason wu

From the classic bowtie to color block pants, the tuxedo embraces diversity more than ever. Ralph Lauren and Alexander Wang adhered to the traditional aesthetic, but played with bibs, capes and other accessories. The trouser took many forms with cropped and baggy cuts, offset against oversize vests or patterned fabric. Menswear for women is now a staple for day and night.


fashion week report: Fall 2011

FORM

embellished lace

doo.ri

jason wu

the row

monique lhullier

In a season focused on texture, lace became a standout against leather, fur, and knits. No longer solely an accent, this delicate fabric assumed a powerful base position. Jason Wu clearly claimed the trend with his Versailles collection. He deigned masks, tights, tops, gowns, and detailing from handmade French lace. The intricately woven patterns at Doo.Ri contrasted against The Row’s heavily beaded and exaggerated gowns.

split skirts

l’wren scott

ralph lauren

adam

jason wu

To counter the longer hemline, many designers found ways to still show a little leg. Oscar worthy evening gowns from Ralph Lauren, L’Wren Scott, ADAM and Jason Wu featured dramatic thigh high splits. This playful cut achieves movement and an element of surprise. - CHLOE MARIE SONGER


FORM opinion It seems as though the fashion industry is in a civil war. High fashion designers and magazine editors alike are frustrated by our culture’s obsession with immediacy and the critical impact of the internet. Women’s Wear Daily editor Bridget Foley writes, “...the web provides instant access to all...Twitter and the blogosphere provide platforms for a culture of selfproclaimed critical experts.” However, perceived negative consequences from digital media are at odds with the burgeoning blogosphere and rising celebrity bloggers like Tavi, the 14 year prodigy of Style Rookie, or Susie Bubble, Style Bubble’s British voice. Each side makes extremely well founded claims. The immediacy and ubiquity of the internet creates overexposure and allows other companies to create copies that will be released even before the runway collections hit stores. Designer Tom Ford said in a recent interview with WWD, “So it’s everywhere all over the streets in three months and by the time you get it to the store, what’s the point?” His message hits hard, but for a designer of such caliber, the frustration with this situation is understandable. However, New York Magazine’s The Cut blog states,“Before the internet, who was talking this much about ad campaigns, and the models and photographers who make them? Before the internet, who debated the design merits of a designer’s latest show at dinner with friends? Before the internet, how big of a fan base and how much name recognition could a designer like Tom Ford really acquire?” As an obsessive follower of the lives of designers, runway shows, fashion magazines, and style icons, I could very easily take the side of the bloggers and media and argue that the fashion industry today relies on the internet to promote fashion and design. But as an Art History major, I also value the creative brilliance of the artist. I admire the “elitism” and concept of connoisseurship that thrives in the art world. So why force this conflict into black and white terms? Though I am sure readers were not expecting philosophy from a fashion magazine, this “civil war” in the industry has a corollary in Hegel’s dialectic. Short recap in layman’s terms: there is a thesis which gives rise to a reaction, the antithesis. This clash between the thesis and antithesis leads to a synthesis, a sort of resolution of the conflict. Hear me out. The thesis is our fashion industry: elitism, haute couture, Bridget Foley, Tom Ford. The antithesis is the internet: the blogosphere, online shopping and live streaming of runway shows. The synthesis, in my view, was perfectly demonstrated at an exhibit at The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute entitled “blog.mode: addressing fashion.” The Costume Institute displayed some of its most famous pieces—such as Nan Kempner’s fire orange cloak and 18th century gowns—in glass cases, as though it were a normal exhibit. However, they also set up a “blog-bar”—computers throughout the exhibit that museum visitors could log into and write about the clothing—as well a website that served as an open forum. The Met created a dialogue between the two worlds: the elite world of a gallery space and high fashion with the democratic culture of blogs. I think that inviting bloggers such as Tavi or Bryanboy to fashion shows would be a continuation of this idea outside of the museum space. A synthesis of internet and high fashion combines the traditional veneration of couture shows with an immediate dissemination of information and style. Without high fashion, what is there for these bloggers to discuss? And the bloggers stimulate greater interest in high fashion through universal accessibility. Both industries need each other so let us welcome this fashion symbiosis.

Tavi from “Style Rookie”

A Fashion Alliance By: Taylor Zakarin

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Follow Taylor as she chronicles her thoughts in “Eccentric Glamour,” her column on the FORM blog - blog.dukefashion.org


Smooth Sailing for THE

Silk Industry? By: Kate Pobuda

It is no secret that our economy has seen better days. As consumers point the finger at Wall Street for the economic downturn, just uptown in the Garment District, the aftershock is still reaching consumers with a smaller, cocoonsized problem. Lanvin for H&M, pop-up stores, and the increased popularity of discount shopping sites like Gilt Groupe are evidence that the luxury consumer still wants luxury, but in the current economy, the consumer doesn’t have a luxury-sized wallet. Unfortunately, the quest for high fashion without the high price tag has encountered another speed bump: rapidly increasing silk prices in China. Silk, a fabric at one time reserved for the Chinese Emperor, is a natural fabric made from weaving the thread of silkworms. In the last 6 months, silk prices hit a 15-year high, rising from roughly $25 a kilo to between $35 and $40. The popular fabric mill C&J Textiles began posting signs at their register, notifying customers of the rapid increase in silk prices. A representative from C&J said that “people are actually beginning to consider synthetics” as an alternative to pricey silk. So how does this affect us, as consumers, and more importantly, as fashionistas? Well, silk wasn’t the fabric of the Chinese emperor for nothing. It has a long history of being considered one of the most luxurious fabric choices in couture and high-end fashion. So when the cost of the silk go-

ing into the production of these luxury goods rises, so does the retail price, or the price incurred by us. Why the drastic jump in price—what is happening in China to cause such a change? It is most likely a combination of factors. Last spring there was a shortage in spring silkworm cocoons because of a drought in China, so the supply was lower than usual. In addition, as China rapidly industrializes, the pressure to expand into the farming region of Shanghai has forced some silk farmers out of business, which also decreases supply. But let’s get to the bottom line—what does this mean for consumers and for the retail industry? The answer may surprise you. Christian Morel Journel, a silk merchant in France, decidedly states that the increase in silk prices will do little to affect the sale of luxury women’s wear. Rather, he thinks sales could increase, since there is an inverse relationship between price and demand when it comes to silk products. I’ll leave you to decide, fellow avid shoppers—silk prices are increasing, but will that stop you from busting out your patent leather wallet the next time you fall in love with the perfect frilly blouse? Now that’s a tough call…

“In the past 6 months, silk prices hit a 15year high”

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Duke Through The Decades Photography: Gray Lyons Fashion: David Kim, Kate Pobuda, Camila Vignaud, Kate Yang Hair/Makeup: Alexa Galan, Abby Mathieson, Betsy Santoyo


1922: Chronicle editors begin using the nickname “Blue Devils” for the athletic teams. “Les Diables Bleus” was the nom de guerre of a regiment of French alpine troops widely known for their exploits in World War I.

Claire (center): Dress, Elizabeth and James; Tights, Target; Shoes, Aldo. Jade (left): Dress, Forever 21; Gloves, Time After Time; Shoes, Vince Camuto. Lewis (right): Shirt, Geoffrey Beene; Pants, BDG; Vest, Urban Outfitters; Hat, Urban Outfitters; Shoes, Zegna; Belt, Geoffrey Beene.


The Twenties


1957: The term “Duke University Medical Center� is first used to describe the combined facilities for medical and nursing instruction, treatment, and research.

The Fifties


Claire (far left): Dress, Shoshanna; Shoes, Martinez Valero; Necklace, Madewell. Jade: Dress, Urban Outfitters; Shoes, Vince Camuto; Belt, J.Crew; Earrings, Nordstrom. Lewis: Shirt, Geoffrey Beene; Jacket, Herringbone; Pants, BDG; Shoes, Zegna.


Claire (left): Dress, Trina Turk; Shoes, Urban Outfitters; Earrings, Forever 21. Jade (right): Dress, Essentials by A.B.S.; Coat, Forever 21; Shoes, Diba; Headband, Target. Lewis (center): Sweater, Ralph Lauren; Blazer, Martin Gordon; Jeans, Standard Cloth; Shoes, Zegna.


THE SIXTIES 1961: The admissions policy is amended to affirm equality of opportunity regardless of race, creed, or national origin.


The Seventies

1972 : The Men’s and Women’s colleges were merged to form our present Trinity College of Arts and Sciences.


Claire: Dress, Urban Outfitters; Vest, Gap; Necklace, Forever 21; Shoes, Zara. Jade: Top, Rachel by Rachel Roy; Pants, Tibi; Belt, J.Crew; Shoes, Jeffrey Campbell.


Claire (left): Dress, Trina Turk; Skirt, Forever 21; Belt, J.Crew; Shoes, Aldo; Earrings, Forever 21. Jade (right): Dress, Urban Outfitters; Shoes, Jeffrey Campbell. Lewis (center): Shirt, Geoffrey Beene; Sweater, vintage; Pants, Ralph Lauren; Belt, Geoffrey Beene; Shoes, Lloyd Loafers; Sunglasses, KW.

1986: The K-ville tenting tradition is born after 15 Mirecourtfriends slept outside for the four nights leading up to the Duke-Unc game. Duke won 85-72.

The Eighties


Claire: Flannel shirt, L.L. Bean; Vest, J.Crew; Skirt, Leifsdottir; Boots, Boutique 9. Jade: Shirt, Laugh Cry Repeat; Skirt, Urban Outfitters; Shoes, Steve Madden; Bracelets: Forever 21. Lewis: Henley, All-Son; Flannel shirt, Salt Valley; Jacket, Levi’s; Jeans, Levi’s; Shoes, Converse.


The Nineties

1991 : The men’s basketball team, after advancing to the NCAA Final Four for the eighth time, wins its first national championship


FORM feature

THE LURE OF

Luxury

Despite the weak economic state of our country, luxury brands have continued to thrive. What exactly is this lure of luxury? According to Yann Truong PhD, a professor in Marketing at ESC-Rennes Business School, personal orientation and social orientation are the two underlying motivations. Personal orientation is internally driven; people buy luxury products for the superior quality and the uniqueness of the products. They admire the creativity and art that goes into designer clothing, which gives them an outlet to express their personality and style while making them look and feel good. Being able to afford luxury goods also reflects self-fulfillment of goals and economic success. The ability to treat oneself to something expensive and of supreme quality reinforces the happiness from success. I’m guilty of this habit: after 3 months of working full-time last summer I rewarded myself with the Marc Jacobs cross-body bag I’d been coveting.

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On the other hand, wearing luxury goods can be driven by social pressure – the need to depict status or impress others. Today’s competitive world underscores the importance of money and success; brands are a way to display your social status or indicate affiliation with a specific socioeconomic class. Luxury goods are bought to gain respect from others and emulate wealth or superiority. In Signaling Status with Luxury Goods Han, Nunes, and Dreze distinguish between four types of luxury signaling:

1.

Affluent consumers who pay premium prices for inconspicuously branded goods. They are of the highest socioeconomic class, so they do not need to prove their wealth. They buy luxury goods with subtle branding that only others in their elite group would be able to recognize.


2.

Affluent consumers who do not have the “cultural capital” to recognize the subtle branding on premium goods. They have a desire to prove their status and use designer goods with the brand prominently displayed to distinguish themselves from the masses and as an elite group.

3.

Non-affluent consumers who desire the image of status that luxury goods provide. They cannot afford the most expensive items so generally own counterfeit products or the less-expensive goods (sunglasses, wallets, belts, etc). They want to imitate being wealthy and set themselves apart from others.

4.

bag for $900. In a store that’s not Chanel or Gucci, $300 or $900 may seem absurd, but compared to the amazing $10,000 bag it’s really not that bad. So you purchase them. This sequence of events is one that entrances many shoppers every day. Designers are aware that they will sell very few of the highest premium goods, as there are very few who can afford them. What they count on is people being lured in by the premium goods and coming out with the accessories or lesser-priced bags and clothing. FOR EXAMPLE: BURBERRY’S BRAND/PRODUCT PLAN

Consumers who do not care about branding or signaling their status through luxury goods.

The existence of these different types of luxury good consumers is manifested in the products designers make. The highest priced items are generally those with subtle displays of branding. They are for consumers who are wealthy enough that they do not feel the need to flaunt it through loud branding. The less expensive goods possess the most designer labels because they are for those trying to emulate wealth or make everyone realize they bought a designer item. Whether buying for the beauty appreciation, as a reward for oneself, or to display status, the lure of luxury has a way of skewing our ideas of acceptable prices. How often have you walked down 5th Avenue knowing you can barely afford anything, but can’t help getting pulled into a store by the most amazing bag you’ve ever seen? You go in to get a better look, but realize $10,000 is not anywhere near your budget. Now you are already in the store, the sales people are looking at you like you cannot possibly afford these clothes. You feel the need to prove them wrong so you go towards the accessory section or, if you are really treating yourself, towards the more reasonable handbags. You find a pair of sunglasses for $300 or a great

What lures you in:

CHANEL CRUISE 2011

source: moore & birtwhistle, 2004

A strong brand is the most important asset in any business. It enables a company to charge a price premium and establish loyalty and repeat buyers. Designers know how to market their brands and assign an air of exclusivity and quality. While they distort reasonable spending habits, the achievement of status and the happiness associated with purchasing high-priced items will continue to support the success of luxury brands.

- Blair Melocik Christopher M. Moore, Grete Birtwistle, (2004) “The Burberry business model: creating an international luxury fashion brand”, International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, Vol. 32 Iss: 8, pp.412 -422 Jee Han, Young, Joseph C. Nunes, and Xavier Drèze. “Signaling Status with Luxury Goods: The Role of Brand Prominence.” Journal of Marketing July (2010): 14-30. Print.

What you actually buy:

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F O R M sustains FORM delves into the world of ecofriendly fashion and what it means to environmentalists, fashionistas, and all of us who fall somewhere in between.

Z E R O I N G I N:

Last season’s “Project Runway” introduced us to Portland-based designer Gretchen Jones. Despite varying opinions on the season eight winner, Jones’ work and design aesthetic confronted viewers with a new and growing trend in fashion: sustainability. Jones’ brand Mothlove produces collections with the environment at its forefront, using “organic cottons, silk, bamboo and soy blends, with low impact & natural dye processes.” Jones is not the only designer keeping the planet in mind. She is part of the ever-growing push to infuse principle and accountability into the industry, the beginnings of “fashion with a conscience.” Fashion, like other industries, is reflecting pressures from the socio-political climate to put an end to exhaustive practices and reduce carbon E C O - F R I E N D L Y footprints. Since Defined by the Sustainable 2005, we have seen large-scale initiaTechnology Education Project, ecologically friendly tives to present the ethical face of fashfashion encompasses ion, with the likes procedures that “take into of FutureFashaccount the environment, ion at New York the health of consumers Fashion Week and and the working conditions Portland’s Fashof people in the fashion ion week, which in industry.” 2007, switched to making the event

itself sustainable. But in an industry so contrived and manipulated by change, does eco-fashion have the wherewithal to endure the nature of the business? Will eco-sustainable fashion challenge the notion of “disposable clothing” and offer some permanency to the business? Furthermore, how do consumers fit into the broad view now, and where will they find themselves in the future? First, the criteria that qualifies practices in fashion as “sustainable” might be more expansive than you previously thought. The material used is considered sustainable depending on how it is transformed into a textile, its source, renewability, and overall carbon footprint. Materials including organic cotton grown without pesticides and recycled fabrics reprocessed into new fibers support such a philosophy. But the sustainability of fashion extends beyond its physical resources. Designers who embrace the movement guarantee safe conditions for their workers, including factories that are sanitary, fair wages, and reasonable working hours. By imparting ethics into the manufacturing process, companies such as American Apparel (AA) wholly embody these admirable ideals. With their policy of “vertical integration,” AA uses leftover scraps of fabric to make accessories, donates packaging and supplies to art programs, derives a percentage of their energy from solar panels, produces a 100%


sustainability organic line, encourages workers to use bikes, and even subsidizes bus passes. Furthermore, the company is joined by other commercial retail powers in their ecological efforts. New innovations in design also lessen the overwhelming burden fashion places on the environment. A radical new technique called “zero waste design” seeks to create clothing patterns that leave no material unused. Changing the inefficient way in which fabric is presently cut, with large spaces between pieces of the garment, zero waste creates a new alternative by constructing patterns that fit together like puzzle pieces. Though experimental and still in its infancy, zero waste is gaining substantial momentum in the fashion world. September 2010 saw one of the first courses in zero waste design, offered at Parsons the New School for Design. Despite economic and infrastructure challenges to this pioneering technique, the practice is truly reinventing the way we think of fashion production. Popular blogs such as zerofabricwastefashion.blogspot.com and leading international designers continuously bolster the technique’s reputation and support it as a reachable possibility in the future. Yet with talk of natural fibers, new ways of cutting, and worker’s rights, we have ignored an essential figure in the design trajectory: the consumer. With the shift in design rhetoric and focus on the environment, some argue that eco-fashion is not consumer friendly. The cost of making “clothes with a conscience” is undoubtedly more expensive than sweatshop

H&M/Lanvin’s

“Waste” collection: leftover fabrics from the normal Lanvin line regenerated

FORM

produced attire, as it places an elevated price tag on sustainable clothing. This in turn further polarizes fashion’s customer base, as shoppers (like myself) of more modest means cannot afford such designs and feel excluded yet again for failing to splurge on an overpriced item. Rather than creating an even larger disparity between the haves and have-nots, the push for sustainable clothing actually invites the everyday consumer to actively participate in the fashion world. Instead of buying the newest organic fashions off the racks, fashionistas are reclaiming the term sustainable and turning to vintage and thrift shops, swapping clothing with others, and venturing into the whimsical world of DIY to keep up with fashion’s ever changing pulse. Cult blogs like psimadethis.com and newdressaday.com show viewers the endless possibilities for reinvention and reveal how the old and economical can be fresh and exciting. While even green fashion may meet the same dismal fate as other clothing once it is “démodé,” resurrecting older styles keeps clothing in constant rotation and out of landfills. Thus, the once abstract nature of ecologically sound design, in its failure to become readily available to a wider audience, is made tangible through the efforts of cunning fashion enthusiasts. Our modified version of sustainability allows us to not only keep up with the demands and branching directions of the fashion world, but to also make sense of it in our own terms. In this way, fashion is in the hands of the beholder and liberated from the wills of design dictators. And don’t you just love being complimented on your shoes and being able to say, “They’re vintage”? I know I do.

- Chanelle “C.C.” Croxton


FORM sustainability

A Call to Arms:

UPCYCLING BY: Hannah Anderson-Baranger

A new trend arises from the vintage craze: upcycling. With the re-use of materials, often with a DIY approach, it is more commonly appearing in up-and-coming designers’ work. Upcycling ranges from embellishing a vintage piece to using remnant fabrics and materials in new designs. These materials are often cheaper for the designer to purchase, an economically appealing option for newer designers facing restricted budgets. Furthermore, the final products generated from upcycled materials are highly desirable, as they are unique creations from supplies that exist in a limited quantity. Indie designers and mass brands alike have jumped on the upcycling bandwagon. For example, Urban Outfitters launched the Urban Renewal line, whose unique pieces are handmade in the brand’s home city of Philadelphia with materials sourced from around the world. While many garments share the same cut, they are crafted from different UPCYCLING textiles. Colors and patterns vary from item to item, giving this national brand an upcycled edge. 12-NA, based in Argentina and Unlike downcycling that Chile, has been designing upcycled clothing since 2004. The recycles materials into a design duo, Mercedes Martinez and Mariano Breccia, strive for artistic deconstruction of clothing, characterized by surprising lesser quality, upcycling is pattern and fabric combinations. Similarly, after several years of “the process of converting owning a vintage boutique in New York City, owners Gerard Maione waste materials or useless and Seth Weisser launched a vintage inspired clothing line, What products into new materials or products of better Goes Around Comes Around (WGACA). In 2010, their Custom Vintage collection featured pieces that are upcycled back to life, like quality or a higher the Gridnail Flannel shirt adorned with nail heads. environmental value.” A prime source for upcycled clothing and accessories is Etsy.com, the online marketplace for handmade and vintage goods. Yana of Supayana creates limited edition pieces from secondhand fabrics. Her pieces often have a retro feel, but are still distinctly modern. If you’re looking for new purse, Studio Cat B specializes in leather handbags and wristlets. Many of the bags are made with re-purposed leather from furniture and decorated with appliquéd leather flowers and leaves. Gina Michelle Eco focuses on ecoconsciousness and makes her products with renewable natural materials, like bamboo fiber. Her designs are sophisticated, edgy, and sensuous. Cultivar, by Katie Reim, is a collection of “blooms cultivated from neglected fabrics.” Her hairpins are sourced from secondhand fabrics and findings, in conjunction with new beads – a precious addition to any spring outfit! Rachel Demsick of GetReadySetGO uses ink to draw designs on upcycled vintage luggage. Pieces range from train cases to messengers and designs include forests, birds, keys, and octopi. You can even request an original for your luggage! Upcycling is innovative with its promising ethical, financial, and aesthetic implications. The nature of upcycling is ideal for small businesses and designers because it thrives on a limited supply of a given material. They have an advantage over larger, mass-produced companies because they are restricted by low quantities and have greater control over creativity.


For eco friendly clothes in Durham, we recommend Vert & Vogue in Brightleaf Square! Upcycling also provides a golden opportunity to address the unethical practices and subsequent consequences of the garment industry, and should become a major component of modern clothing production. Upcycled and vintage goods could replace new animal-derived goods while the industry works to reform. The unique properties of animal skins are hard to replicate, so it is unrealistic to hope for the elimination of all fur products. Nevertheless, possible alternatives exist, such as using the skins of animals that die naturally or instating stricter regulations for the meat and leather industries.

Upcycling provides a golden opportunity to address the unethical practices and subsequent consequences of the garment industry

Upcycling is also an eco-friendly practice for other materials. While cotton production has a negative environmental impact, many materials are simply produced in excess. With limited natural resources and a growing world population, we cannot afford to waste perfectly usable fabrics, materials and clothing products. For instance, about 12.7 million tons of textiles were produced in 2009. Some leftovers, mostly clothing and shoes, are donated to developing countries and sold at minimal cost, usually a few cents. About 15% of textiles are recovered and recycled into new materials. The rest ends up in landfills. It is our duty as fashionistas to realize the ethical implications of our passion. We must start taking steps towards reforming the way clothing is produced or else the world will continue to suffer atrocities at our hands. Upcycling is a first step on the road to a redefined fashion world.

My Etsy.com Wishlist Eco

lle e h c i

M

Gina

“Re-purposed furniture leather is decorated with appliquéd leather flowers and leaves.”

Stu

dioC

atB

na

ya upa

S

“Made with renewable natural materials, her designs are sophisticated, edgy, and sensuous.”

“Pieces range from train cases to messengers and you can request an original for your luggage!”

“Her limited edition pieces from secondhand fabrics often have a retro feel, but are still distinctly modern.”

GetR

eady

SetG

O

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FORM eats

DINING IN DURH

2010 Hillsborough Rd, Durham, NC 27705 (919) 416-0466 Tue-Thu 5:30pm-10pm; Fri-Sat 5:30pm-11pm; Sun 10:30am-2pm, 5:30pm-9pm

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HAM V I N

R O U G E

Vin Rouge was the first restaurant I went to with my Mom during O-Week in 2008, and to this day it remains my favorite place to eat. Over and over again, Vin Rouge proves itself to be a trustworthy, price friendly and delicious choice within walking distance from East Campus. What’s not to love? Oh and something else: unlike most other restaurants in the Triangle, Vin Rouge is open Sundays! Sacrilege! No, I say it’s a gift sent from above. THE AMBIANCE: Shabby chic. Worn tables, vintage photographs on the walls, unfinished floors. In this cozy atmosphere, bluejeans are welcome! WHERE TO SIT: Anywhere but the front room, as the hustle and bustle of the servers dashing to the open kitchen to fire orders is not the ideal background noise for morning or evening dining. In the spring and fall take advantage of the warmer nights and sit outside. WHAT TO DRINK: Immediately upon walking in, the fully stocked top-shelf bar establishes its presence. For those who can partake, ask for the St. Germain cocktail. The bartender will whip you up something of his own creation with this excellently aromatic elderflower liqueur that leaves you asking ‘what the heck is an elderflower’? WHAT TO ORDER FOR DINNER: There have been very few times when I stray from the French Onion Soup. Whoever invented this perfect combination of deeply flavorful beef stock packed with caramelized onions and gruyere cheese bubbling over baguette toasts clearly had it right. Vin Rouge’s version sticks to the classic approach, but why fix it if it ain’t broke? This soup, only $8 for a bowl, would certainly suffice as your full meal. Trust me, it has been known to satisfy even the

biggest of men: ‘But it looked so small, I don’t know what happened…’. A personal favorite is the Shrimp Provencal. Simple comfort food that never loses its special something. Six shrimp are cooked in a miniature cast-iron skillet with garlic, wine, butter and barely discernable bits of tomato. It practically begs you to dip the whole breadbasket in it. I’ve found that this $9 dish isn’t often ordered, but as soon as I press people to try it, I never have any left for myself. Other Vin Rouge classics are the Macaroni with Bacon for $13, which will leave you with leftovers for a week, and the Steak au Poivre for $18.95 – I’m particularly partial to the dish as a béarnaise and pepper lover.

With warmer weather approaching, brunch is a great way to relax and enjoy the sunshine (but make sure you’re seated below an umbrella to avoid being blinded). WHAT TO ORDER FOR BRUNCH: I love the Fruit Salad with home made crème Chantilly: light and fresh with a touch of creamy goodness at $5.50, it’s perfect for mornings where you need to grab a bite before the library. But on those Sundays when I’m not sure coffee will keep me fueled, I gravitate towards the Croque Monsieur for $7.50 (make it a Madame by asking for a fried egg on top). Whoever thought of taking a ham and cheese with mustard and pouring melty cheese on top is a straight up genius. It’s served on a plate brimming with French fries, so don’t feel bad not being able to finish. I’ve never walked out of this Durhammeets-Paris bistro unsatisfied. There is truly something for everyone, including good prices and friendly service. If you don’t have time to eat in, call for take out. Now you really don’t have an excuse to miss out! - KATE SALZMAN


Campus Candids

FORM welcomes Trinity senior Robert Wainblat, founder of Campus Sartorialist. His website is a growing collective photography project that endeavors to capture the best and most original styles around campus, much like Scott Schuman, of the Sartorialist, does outside the college sphere. Wainblat encourages anyone to submit their own photographs of stylish students to his blog, because fashion is, after all, a collaborative effort.

Be sure to visit Wainblat’s blog at www.campussartorialist.com


SPECIAL THANKS TO:

of Chapel Hill

1000 West Main St Durham, NC 27701 (919) 428-4965

108 Meadowmont Village Circle Chapel Hill, NC 27517 (919) 967-6830

Clothing Credits: On Claire (36): Dress, Uniquities; Tights, Kate Pobuda; Shoes, Kate Pobuda. On Jade (36): Dress, Kate Pobuda; Gloves, Kate Pobuda. Shoes, Kate Pobuda. On Lewis (36): Shirt, Lewis McLeod; Pants, Urban Outfitters; Vest, Urban Outfitters; Hat, Urban Outfitters; Shoes, Lewis McLeod; Belt, David Kim. On Claire (38): Dress, Monkee’s; Shoes, Monkee’s; Necklace, Kate Pobuda. On Jade (38): Dress, Kate Pobuda; Shoes, Magpie; Belt, Kate Pobuda; Earrings, Kate Pobuda. On Lewis (38): Shirt, Lewis McLeod; Jacket, Lewis McLeod; Pants, Urban Outfitters; Shoes, Lewis McLeod. On Claire (40): Dress, Monkee’s; Shoes, Caroline Long; Earrings, Caroline Long. On Jade (40): Dress, Kate Pobuda; Coat, Caroline Long. Shoes, Jade Brown; Headband, Kate Pobuda. On Lewis (40): Sweater, David Kim; Blazer, Nordstrom; Jeans, Urban Outfitters; Shoes, Lewis McLeod. On Claire (42): Dress, Kate Pobuda; Vest, Kate Pobuda; Necklace, Caroline Long; Shoes, Kate Pobuda. On Jade (42): Top, Kate Pobuda; Pants, Kate Pobuda; Belt, Kate Pobuda; Shoes, Kate Pobuda. On Claire (44): Dress, Monkee’s; Skirt, Caroline Long; Belt, Kate Pobuda; Shoes, Kate Pobuda; Earrings, Caroline Long. On Jade (44): Dress, Kate Pobuda; Shoes, Kate Pobuda. On Lewis (44): Shirt, Lewis McLeod; Sweater, David Kim; Pants, Lewis McLeod; Belt, David Kim; Shoes, Lewis McLeod; Sunglasses, Nordstrom. On Claire (46): Flannel shirt, Kate Pobuda; Vest, Kate Pobuda; Skirt, Monkee’s; Boots, Kate Pobuda. On Jade (46): Shirt, Nordstrom; Skirt, Kate Pobuda; Shoes, Jade Brown. On Lewis (46): Henley, Urban Outfitters; Flannel shirt, Urban Outfitters; Jacket, Urban Outfitters; Jeans, Urban Outfitters; Shoes, Lewis McLeod.

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Welcome back from

SPRING BREAK!

From the FORM staff dukefashion.org facebook.com/dukefashion twitter: @dukefashionmag


FORM Spring 2011