e m k n i r d
lifestyle beyond th
c a r n e r o s r e d e f i n e d.
p l e a s e e n j o y r e s p o n s i b l y ÂŠ 2009 Imported by W.J.Deutsch & Sons, Ltd. www.wjdeutsch.com
F eatures Issue number 6
Does This Count as Overtime? By Jonathan Yaffe
The Old Can at the Back of Your Dad’s Fridge By Vanick Der Bedrossian
Women Bartenders By Ted Munat
28 Relax. it's only wine
Digressions of a Sommelier By Gus Vahlkamp
issue 1 EDITOR IN CHIEF Daniel Yaffe MANAGING EDITOR Eriq Wities DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Pablo Perez DESIGNER Tia Hopkins DESIGN CONCEPT Megan Grosberg WEB DESIGNER Aman Ahuja COPY EDITOR Sam Devine WRITERS Vanick der Bedrossian Jonathan Yaffe Gus Vahlkamp Ted Munat PUBLISHER Open Content www.opencontent.tv THANK YOU David Nepove, Janell Moore, Megan Grosberg, Kiri Henderson, David Slade, Skylar Werde, Sitar Mody, Erin Hunt, Debbie Rizzo, Katie Sweeny, Sacha Ferguson, Sangita Devaskar, Cantina, 15 Romolo ADVISORY BOARD: Gus Vahlkamp, H Ehrmann, Hondo Lewis, Carrie Steinberg, Jeremy Cowan, Genevieve Robertson, Dominic Venegas Thank you to the countless others who have supported us and made Drink Me possible.
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Recent Suddenly a fraternity breakfast worthy of attention. To deal with excess milk, a Japanese brewery invented “Bilk”. Abashiri Beer, a small brewery in Hok kaido, Japan has created a low-malt beer made out of locally produced milk. Although beer floats come to mind, this lacto-beer has a fruity flavor. They are purportedly going to market it towards women, but babies seem like an ideal consumer. An American marketing cam paign would be too good to resist: Beer. It does a body good.
Ever wanted to start a winery but never knew where to get the $2 million? You’re not alone. Although it sounds like a drunken Trekkie invention, the Wine Pod integrates some new technology and brings winemaking into your home. The Wine Pod crushes your grapes and connects wirelessesly to your computer to monitor and direct the fermentation process; it lets you control the temperature and sugar content from the click of your mouse. All you need to do is buy the grapes, play some winemaking computer games, and voila! Perhaps we’ll be pouring our batch of 60 bottles of Drink Me Syrah at our next party.
apanese “Salary-Men” Does This Count as Overtime?
A look into Japan’s corporate drinking culture
Photo by Open Content
fter the night’s last train leaves just after midnight in starless Tokyo, train stations become littered with the inebriated bodies of Japan’s “salary-men” sporting identical suits, 1000 yen ($10) cookie-cutter haircuts, and company loyalty pins. The fact that, on any night, myriad respectable professionals end up passed out in front of train stations proclaims something slightly distu rbing about Japan’s corporate drinking culture.
Alcohol is as much a part of Japan’s modern culture as it is in any other society, although Japan's acceptance of extreme drunkenness and the way in which alcohol plays a central role in their work atmosphere creates a very different aesthetic. It’s not uncommon for coworkers and business associates to go out drinking socially together after work. In Japan though, drinking is a frequent necessity of the corporate world marked by company bonding, one-upmanship in alcohol tolerance, and expense accounts (which justify exorbitant drink prices, because if company is paying, you’ll gladly have another $50 martini).
By Jonathan Yaffe
Shochu was the favorite beverage of the worldâ€™s longest-living man, Shigechiyo Izumi of Japan, who lived for 120 years and 237 days. He was born on June 29, 1865 and died on February 21, 1986.
Japanese corporate drinking culture is not devoid of its customs and etiquette though; on the contrary, the entire night out is marked with a certain expected protocol:
Donâ€™t even think about pouring your own drink. You are expected to pour first for your superiors and they will then reciprocate. Keep your eye on the glasses of your compatriots and do not let their glasses remain empty. That would be very bad form.
Order shochu. Though sake is the alcohol most traditionally associated with Japan, in these modern times it is primarily saved for traditional ceremonies or served with sushi, while shochu (which is distilled) is much more common in everyday drinking status. Shochu can be made from pretty much anything, with wheat, potato, and brown sugar versions among the most popular. Drink this smooth, clear alcohol on the rocks or mixed with water, oolong tea, or juice, and do be careful of the associated hangover.
Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, you must show up to work the next day on time and without any remaining sign of drunken revelry the night before. Whether you spent the night on a cardboard bed outside the Shinjuku train station or shelled out for the $70 taxi back home, you are expected to arrive prompt and clean-shaven to work. In addition, any potentially embarrassing antics or hilarious, impromptu karaoke renditions of Bon Jovi songs you performed half-naked with your boss while your ties were hung Rambo-like around your forehead are to be classified as a dream within a dream and never brought up in conversation.
Japanese drinking-life and work-life are simultaneously convergent and distinct. They are both telling of the long hours that businessmen in Japan are expected to loyally dedicate to their companies during both their daytime and nighttime hours, and of how bars get away with charging $15 for a beer. The telltale signs of the neon-laden, tabledancing night before are apparent in the weary hoards packed on the 5:00 a.m. trains, heading alcohol-breathed and red-eyed back to work after an apologetic call to the missus. Rest-assured though, no matter which laws were breached the night before, or how many expletives were cursed at the boss in a drunken fit, in an hour the sun will rise on multitudes of wide-eyed and conspicuously professional men and women beginning another 15-hour workday with poise and composure. Kanpai!
SAN FRANCISCO SCHOOL OF BARTENDING
A Rabbi, a Priest and Buddhist Monk walk into a bar. The Rabbi asks, "What is this some kind of joke?"
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1 oz. [ yellow tail ]® Sparkling White Wine 1.5 oz. blueberry-f lavored vodka 1 oz. watermelon liqueur 2 oz. fresh lemonade Shake all ingredients except [ yellow tail ]® Sparkling White Wine in a martini shaker with ice. Strain into a chilled martini or collins glass. Add ice. Top with [ yellow tail ]® Sparkling White Wine. Garnish with fresh blueberries and a small watermelon wedge.
1.5 oz. [ yellow tail ]® Chardonnay 0.5 oz. brandy splash of agave nectar (or .0.5 oz. of simple syrup) 2 orange slices 2 fresh basil leaves f loat of orange liqueur In the bottom of a mixing glass, add the orange slices, agave nectar and basil leaves, then muddle well. Add ice, [ yellow tail ]® Chardonnay and brandy. Shake well, then double strain into a chilled martini glass rimmed in sugar. Float orange liqueur and garnish with an orange twist.
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A man walks into a bar. He approaches the bartender and asks for seven shots. "Of what?" the bartender asks. "Whiskies. Make them doubles." "OK," the bartender replies as he fills the shots. The seven glasses sit in front of the man. He grabs the first glass and pounds it. Grabs the second and pounds it. He slams through the other five shots, drinking each one faster than the shot before. Within seconds, seven rocks glasses are sitting on the bar, empty. "I've never seen anything like that before," the bartender tells him in disbelief. "Why did you drink them so fast?" The man calmly stands up. "You'd drink them this fast if you had what I had." Apprehensive, the bartenders asks, "What's that?" The man quickly replies, "A dollar."
“I feel sorry for people who don’t drink. When they wake up in the morning, that’s as good as they’re going to feel all day.” Frank Sinatra Photo by Open Content
RECIPES sponsored drinks
Ginepro Amaro cocktail by Bols Bartending Academy 1 shot of Bols Genever 1 shot of sweet vermouth 1 shot of freshly squeezed ruby grapefruit juice 1 shot of rich sugar syrup (2 parts sugar: 1 part water) Technique Stir the ingredients with large, hard, cold ice cubes and double-strain into the glass Garnish Spray and rim a zest of orange Notes Genever is the predecessor to gin it is maltwine based while Gin uses a white grain spirit
Pomegranate & Fig wine[tail] 1 oz Yellow Tail Shiraz-Cabernet 1 oz Fig Vodka 1 oz Pomegranate Juice 1 oz Simple Syrup Technique Combine all ingredients in mixing glass with ice. Shake and strain into a chilled martini glass Garnish
Fig slice or pomegranate seeds
Notes Fig Vodka: Cut a few pieces of fresh fig and let them macerate inside the vodka bottle for a few days
Websites to drink to:
Have some random bottles in your cabinet? www.idrink.com gives you the chance to put some panache in your drinks and use what you’ve got. The website has an “enter your ingredients” option that allows you enter the ingredients you have laying around–idrink search will find drinks you can make easily. They have a ridiculous amount of recipes – over 13,700. Having A.D.D. while drinking? They also have a laundry list of drinking games and contests.
The Old Can at the Back of Your Dad’s Fridge
Pabst Blue Ribbon! Rare are those who haven’t at least once decided to pop open a cold can of PBR at an all-too-rowdy party. Even rarer are those who, after the first swig, don’t wonder in drunken stupor how on earth this beer got those damn blue ribbons. PBR’s humble beginnings date back to 1844, when a German immigrantfamily set up a brewing company in Milwaukee. Called Empire Brewery, it produced a number of different ales using imported German brewing techniques. Yet by the 1850s the family was losing interest in the company and began looking for a successor. They met a young and intrepid sailor by the name of Frederick Pabst who soon married into the Best family, and groomed him to become the new company president. Being entrepreneurial by nature, Pabst quickly expanded the company’s operations, increased production and sold his beer across the United States.
By Vanick Der Bedrossian
Drawing By Dylan Toomey
The blue ribbons were individually tied around the neck of every bottle But why the blue ribbon? Pabst beers were first brewed in the 1870s and were widely popular from the get-go. While Pabst beers did win awards at various beer-tasting contests during the 1870s and ‘80s, the blue ribbon was never awarded through a contest. The ribbons were introduced by the company itself, first appearing on bottles of Pabst beer in 1882. The blue ribbons were individually tied around the neck of every bottle by a factory line worker. Savvy marketing scheme or dumb luck, sales increased to new highs and soon enough the Pabst Brewing Company was scrambling to find ribbon producers who could produce enough blue ribbons to keep up with the beer’s demand. This explosion in sales may not have happened by chance alone. Mr. Pabst made concerted efforts to keep his employees happy. They received better pay than other industry workers and were given a whole turkey and a case of beer every Christmas. “An intelligent man is sometimes forced to be drunk to spend time with his fools.” Ernest Hemingway
Photo By Robert DeBusshere
Craft Beer Tavern
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The Pabst beer company positioned its product as a beer made by the working class for the working class – it even inscribed “UNION MADE” on the label. So, beyond its good value as a cheap beer, Pabst and its hand-tied blue ribbons were seen as symbols of the livelihood and values of the bluecollar, American working class.
Paul Pacult, Spirit Journal One of the Best & Brightest Vodkas in the U.S. – Robert Plotkin
Please drink responsibly. Square One® Organic Vodka, 40% ALC/VOL. (80 proof) 100% organic grain neutral spirits distilled from 100% certified organic American Rye. (c) 2009 Square One Organic Spirits LLC, Novato, CA
Square One® Organic Vodka is certified organic and made from the finest, 100% organic American rye. To make a great tasting vodka, we started at Square One. Our organic vodka is created in one place, using high-quality organic grain and pure water from the Teton Mountains.
During World War II Pabst beers were painted olive-green and shipped off to the American soldiers fighting in Europe.
Pabst’s popularity during that period tells the tale of the American Dream, with immigrant families managing to not only survive, but also thrive. This immigrant-founded company is a classic example of assimilation and integration into American society, creating a product that contributes to America’s national pride and heritage. During World War II Pabst beers were painted olive-green and shipped off to the American soldiers fighting in Europe. Who would have ever imagined that U.S. soldiers fighting Nazis would be drinking a beer first made by German immigrants? That cult classic image of Americana brew has proven to last well into recent years.
by ork tten w t Ru Ar ron Aa
Mixologistas Women Bartenders
We can all agree that the most accurate reflections of our cultural attitudes come via the Google search. When asked about female bartenders, Google is quick to bring us to “Sex Advice From… Female Bartenders,” “Easy Methods for Picking Up Hot Female Bartenders,” and a YouTube video of “Cute Female Bartender Performing Bottle Tricks.” Don’t tell me this isn’t the perfect synthesis of stereotypes regarding women behind the bar. Women prove to be outside the lines of the nostalgic image of bartenders donning vests and arm garters - the glory era of cocktails, an era completely devoid of female bartenders. Place a woman behind the bar and the fantasy suddenly feels precarious.
By Ted Munat
Photos by Darwin Bell
Mixologistas continued ... If you haven’t yet put this article down to go look for that bottle trick video (it’s not as provocative as it sounds) then stick with me here. The beautiful truth is that an ever-growing number of brilliant, female bartenders have emerged in a male-dominated industry, representing a peak of creativity, sophistication, and passion for the craft of bartending and mixology. The bartenders chronicled below weren’t placed behind the bar for ornamentation, but have earned starlit spots by paying dues and by being exceptional at what they do. Make no mistake, they’ve been doubted throughout.
Photo by Frankie Frankeny
In 2006, Jackie entered a cocktail competition (virtually an Iron Chef event, using just one spirit or liqueur, in this case it was a tequila) – despite the fact that she was working as a cocktail waitress and not as a bartender. As if this didn’t engender enough eye-rolling in-and-of-itself, imagine the extra ocular-muscle strains that occurred when she won the competition. The boost she received from the victory parlayed into a career behind the bar and a membership with the San Francisco chapter of the U.S. Bartenders’ Guild, the latter coming over the vocal protests of several guild members.
The Baby Doll
1/2 oz Marie Brizard Crème de Menthe, Blanche 2 oz white rhum agricole 1/2 oz simple syrup 3 chunks of yellow doll melon 3 chunks of lemon cucumber 3/4 oz key lime juice Soda water Garnish: lime peel and a mint sprig
Fast forward three years, and Jackie has recently returned from a trip to Bordeaux, France, after winning the U.S. Championship of the Marie Brizard Cocktail Challenge (with a drink called, “The Baby Doll”). She’s firmly established in the guild, her original cocktails dot the menus at many of the Bay Area’s best spots, and she’s working her magic every night at Heaven’s Dog.
Photo by Tiago Russo Pinto
Jennifer says she began bartending “as soon as she was legally allowed to do so” (I picture her camping outside a bar in the days leading up to that birthday, as if angling for concert tickets). Over the years of bartending in San Francisco, she’s crafted an impeccable resume and reputation. Jennifer has her own ways of honoring the classical era of cocktails. Through her own company, Small Hand Foods, she’s re-introducing high quality, pre-prohibition era cocktail ingredients to the world. Her catalog of homemade ingredients includes a gum syrup (a classic, viscous take on a simple syrup), a pineapple gum syrup and orgeat (a French almond syrup). Jennifer’s creations have opened the door for bartenders to craft true re-creations of many classic cocktails.
Photo by Jordan Mackay
Brooke Arthur manages the bar at Range with flawless grace, and is the brand ambassador for St. Germain (a French elderflower liqueur) in the Bay Area. Brooke is crafting a clever way to bolster the status and skills of female bartenders by starting a women’s consulting group. The idea was inspired by the Boston organization, Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails (LUPEC). Much like LUPEC, the San Francisco crew hopes to educate women in the industry about spirits and cocktails, hold industry events, and “dismantle the patriarchy one drink at a time.” At the heart of Brooke’s goals is the desire to tweak things around to allow women to use their femininity to achieve their goals, not hinder them. Thanks to the successes of these women—and to their continued success in the future—it’s safe to say that someday soon, on career day at the local elementary school, little Sally might stand up, smile, and proudly announce to her teachers and classmates:
“When I grow up, I want to be a bartender!”
Relax. It’s Only Wine. Digressions of a Sommelier
By Gus Vahlkamp
Wine should be fun again.
I’m concerned about you. Not concerned in the same way that I am about our overheated Earth or my underachieving liver, but concerned nonetheless. Our downward-facing dog of an economy has actually made it cheaper for you to sample more good wine from more far-flung places than ever before. Over the last decade or so, as the American wine-drinking public has grown more savvy, so too has it attached more significance to its wine – often to the point of missing the point. All of these recommendations and choices have only served to foster a creeping pressure to pair wines perfectly— a vinous performance anxiety.
The notion that
food and wine For many, the wine list seems more an invitation to gnash teeth than it does a ticket to ride. It doesn’t look like fun, but it should be.
can elevate each Back in the old days, Dad would order a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, maybe Mom would have a glass of Chardonnay, and that would be that, regardless of what was on the menu. The notion that food and wine can elevate each other, and thus enhance the experience, just wasn’t applicable.
Nowadays, thanks to the nascent (if often deliberately obtuse) interest in food-and-wine pairings amongst the mainstream gastronomedia, we know better; but a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.
©2009 Imported by HobNob Wine Company, Harrison, NY 10604 Please Drink Responsibly
At The Center Of It All
w w w.hobnobwines.com
Relax. It’s Only Wine. Last week a young couple at the restaurant fussed over their wine selection for almost ninety minutes, their cocktail glasses and first-course plates long since finished and removed from the table. Though I admired their impassioned remonstrations, they had just missed an hour that they could have better spent simply enjoying each other’s company. Now, far be it from me to speculate on the nature of their relationship—though, if you were faced with not enjoying your dinner partner’s company, wouldn’t you rather do it with some wine on the table? Nobody likes to talk about wine more than I do, but I prefer to do it, and am much better at it, with a glass in one hand and a bottle in the other. "Nobody likes to talk about wine more than I do …" The anecdote has a happy ending. We sold the couple some Riesling simply because it goes with everything; they drank it happily with their main courses, and left the restaurant smiling and holding hands.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m grateful that people have tasted enough wine to at least have some idea of what they like and what they don’t. It makes my job easier—usually. I work as a sommelier at a popular restaurant in downtown San Francisco, and run wine programs for two other businesses, which includes training staff and continuing wine education. But, at the risk of sounding overly Californian, I say to you: Relax. It’s only wine. If you’re looking at a wine list and can’t find a suitable candidate for drinking with dinner, chances are someone like me is only steps away and eager to help. And if you don’t like my recommendation, send it back. I’ll drink it, and we’ll get you something else.
Photo By Donald Gruener
J u ly 8th through 12th,20 09
this summer, spirits from around the world will descend on America’s most soulful city as tales of the Cocktail returns to New Orleans. For tickets, event schedules and accommodations for this year’s soul stirring time, visit www.TalesoftheCocktail.com.
our generous annual partners:
Tales of the Cocktail salutes the generous spirit of their sponsors: 10 Cane Rum, 42 Below Vodka, Absolut Vodka, American Express, American Distilling Institute 2009 Directory, Angostura Bitters Angostura Orange Bitters, Averna, Aviation Gin, B&B, Bacardi Rum, Bailey’s Irish Cream, Bar Business Magazine, Basil Hayden’s, Barsol Pisco, Beefeater Gin, Benedictine, Bluecoat Gin, Boca Loca Cachaça, BOLS Liqueurs, Bols Genever, Bombay Sapphire, Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Bulleit Bourbon, Boiron Fruit Puree, Bureau National of Cognac, Bushmill’s Irish Whiskey, Cabana Cachaça, Campari, Captain Morgan Spiced Rum, Casoni Limoncello, Catdaddy Carolina Moonshine, Cherry Heering, Chile Pepper Magazine, Chilled Magazine, Ciroc Vodka, CocktailTimes.com, Cointreau, Corzo Tequila, Crown Royal, Cruzan Rum, Death’s Door Gin, Dekuypur, Del Maguey, Dewar’s Scotch Whisky, Diageo, Dimmi, DiSaronno, Domaine De Canton, Don Julio Tequila, Dress the Drink, Drink Me Magazine, Drinkupny.com, Dubonnet, Evolver Mobile Bars, Fee Brothers Bitters, Fernet Branca, Fever Tree Products, FIJI Water, Firefly Sweet Tea Vodka, Flavorbank Spices, Food & Beverage Magazine, Galliano, Glazer’s of Louisiana, Grand Duque d’Alba, Grand Marnier, Grey Goose Vodka, Harrah’s New Orleans, Hayman’s Old Tom Gin, Hendrick’s Gin, Herbsaint, Hornitos, Hotel Monteleone, Imbibe Magazine, JacquelineChurch.com, Jim Beam, Johnnie Walker Scotch, Jose Cuervo Tequila, Junior Johnson’s Midnight Moon, Knob Creek, Kold-Draft Ice, Kubler Absinthe, La Clandestine, La Fée Absinthe, La Maison d’Absinthe, Laphroaig, Laird’s Applejack, Leblon Cachaça, Lillet Blanc, LOFT Liqueurs, Lucid, Luxardo Marsca Cherries, Maker’s Mark Bourbon Whiskey, Magnum Music Group, Malt Advocate, Marteau Absinthe, Martell Cognac, Martin Miller’s Gin, Martini & Rossi, Martini Asti/Prosecco, Mekhong, Mixerz, Milagro Tequila, Modern Spirits, Mount Gay Rum, Mud Puddle Books Inc., Munat Bros., Museum of the American Cocktail, Navan Vanilla Liqueur, New Orleans Bourbon Society, Nightlub & Bar Magazine, Noilly Pratt, nola.com, Nouvelle Orleans, Old New Orleans Rum, PAMA Pomegranate Liqueur, Parrot Bay Rum Perfect Puree, Pernod Absinthe, Pernod-Ricard, Peychaud’s Bitters, Plymouth Gin, Preiss Imports, R1, Rain Organic Vodka, Rhum Clément, Riedel Glassware, Ron Zacapa Rum, Rum 1919, Sagatiba Cachaça, Sauza Tequila, Saveur Magazine, Sazerac Rye Whiskey, Scorpion Mezcal, SerindipiTea, Siembra Azul, Smirnoff Vodka, Square One Botanicals, Square One Vodka, St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur, Stolichnaya Vodka, Sunkist Growers Association, Tanqueray 10, Tanqueray Gin, Tanqeray Rangpur Gin, Tito’s Handmade Vodka, TYKU, United States Bartenders’ Guild, Uvix Vodka, VeeV, Weddings Magazine, W Hotel New Orleans, Wild Turkey Bourbon, and Zespri Kiwifruit.
PROVENANCE: First traditional absinthe distilled in France since the 1915 ban. AUTHENTICITY: Each distillation is tasted and approved by world-renowned absinthe expert and historian MarieClaude Delaheye, Musée de l’Absinthe. QUALITY: Traditional 68% ABV, following an authentic 19th century recipe - La Fée Absinthe Parisienne is classic in style, strength and signature color. AN ICONIC BRAND: The perfect cocktail ingredient; used by mixologists the world over. READY TO SERVE: Each bottle comes with a free classic serving spoon and absinthe timeline.
Bangkok - Milan - Paris - London - New York - Singapore FOR TRADE SALES: Southern Wine & Spirits; California & Colorado, MHW/Genesis; New York
FOR LOCAL RETAIL: LaFee.com
Enjoy La Fee Responsibly ‘La Fée’, ‘La Fée Absinthe Parisienne’, the ‘La Fée Eye’ device and ‘Sophisticated Decadence’ are Trademarks and/or Registered Trademarks of Green Utopia Limited and/or La Fée LLP © 2008. Imported by Green Utopia, Manhasset, NY.