EDITORIAL These are exciting, chaotic times. Not only in politics and economics, but also in fashion! But we can always be reassured that out of chaos, order arises. We strive to do more than just selling clothes to our customers. We’re returning to a bygone age, where service, a love for the profession and dedication are taking centre stage once again. For us, this is not going backwards, but going forwards. This is the charm of the independent retailer: small is beautiful! Our aim is to create a haven in the life of the customer, something he looks forward to. With a little creativity and hard work, we’ve made this possible. So, we are now very proud to present the next chapter in the book of Princess, our latest project “Renaissance”. Our new store is an environment created to surprise and stimulate, with a trust in beautiful objects and time as a luxurious antidote to today’s hectic lifestyle. Renaissance is there for the modern individual searching the ultimate balance between work and play. We are very pleased to invite you to this eccentric and innovative space where fashion is disassembled to its very essence. It is a universe to wile away the hours and escape the mundane. We hope to see you soon, Yours, Frederic
CONTENT 02 | EDITORIAL 04 | WHAT’S NEW 08 | TREND REPORT 18 | RENAISSANCE 22 | MARC PHILIPPE COUDEYRE 24 | THE VELVET UNDERGROUND 34 | BRANDLIST 35 | MAPS 36 | CONTACT
COLOFON EDITOR IN CHIEF FRÉDÉRIC EDITOR ALEXANDRA VANTHOURNOUT PHOTOGRAPHY ZEB DAEMEN GRAPHIC DESIGN GREGORY VAN BUGGENHOUT STYLING EMMANUELLE BASTIAENSSEN MAKE UP & HAIR SOPHIE VAN BOUWEL MODELS LOUISE MASELIS | EMMANUELLE BASTIAENSSEN SVERRE DENIS | MAAIKE DE PAUW LOCATIONS RENAISSANCE | MOLOTOV CLUB THANKS TO GLENN SESTIG | MICHAEL KOBLOV
abro+, akkesoir, aiko, caliban, coming soon, drôme, emma cook fleamadonna, francesco scognamiglio, hogan coats, kimberly ovitz joanne vanden avenne, lempelius, monroe by amber valetta, n21 mike gonzalez, natan shoes, naven, peuterey, pollini, post&co pleasure doing business, rag&bone, rizal, sam edelman, sprb szen, tigha, why shy, willow, victoria beckham Joanne Vanden Avenne Although this is only her first collection, 23 year-old Belgian designer Joanne Vanden Avenne has already been making quite a splash. Her clothes show an amazing level of sophistication and maturity with a hint of playfulness. She is definitely an exciting new homegrown talent to keep an eye out for!
Victoria Beckham Denim We don’t need to introduce Victoria Beckham to you, surely. She is fast becoming an established name on the fashion scene , with several collections to her name. Victoria Beckham Denim features a lot of her trademark superskinny jeans, with a lot of focus on details like zips, dyes, … The line also features leggings, tanks and jackets. All very simple with a slight rock ‘n roll vibe.
Neil Barrett English designer Neil Barrett made his name as a menswear designer at Gucci and Prada for years before starting his own label. The entirely monochrome collection is very minimalist and pure and focuses mostly on cuts and fabrics. The perfect skintight trouser, a sharply tailored jacket and a crisp white shirt are exactly why you need Neil Barrett in your wardrobe.
Michael by Michael Kors Michael Kors is eponymous with all-American chic. He continues his signature luxury American sportswear style in his second line Michael by Michael Kors, which is slightly more casual and accessible. Expect plenty of feminine dresses and laid-back pieces.
Francesco Scognamiglio You may not know Francesco Scognamiglio, but you might know his clothes – he’s been dressing Lady Gaga in some of her most memorable outfits after all! Fear not, his collection is actually a lot more sophisticated than Gaga’s usual wardrobe. The label is known for its avant-garde pieces, but mixed with more wearable elements. There’s always a slight Italian vibe, with plenty of furs, crystals and plenty of leather.
Mauro Grifoni A new name for casual menswear at Princess Blue is Mauro Grifoni. At first sight it looks like a pretty classic collection, but this is really a label for the modern man. Top-notch tailoring, beautiful fabrics, but with an unexpected twist in the details. A beautiful trouser, but with turned up borders. A blazer, but knitted. Classic, but not.
Moncler Grenoble Moncler Grenoble is the latest the Moncler lines, for which the Italian luxury brand dug deep into their archives and went back to their roots. Founded in Grènoble in 1952, they have a lot of history to look at, after all. The result was a beautiful contrast of traditional outerwear mixed with highly technological fabrics – as if to showcase the evolution of the brand. The wonderfulness of it all is that most pieces have been designed to work both on a ski slope in the French Alps as well as in an urban setting.
N21 (by Alessandro Dell’Acqua) Last year, Alessandro Dell’Acqua parted ways with his successful self-named label, took a little time and came back with his new project N21 for A/W 10. It may be a new name, but the essence of his previous brand is still there. His signature feminine sensual style was still there, but N21 appears to focus more on daywear. Lots of wonderfully cut trousers, smart jumpers, preppy shirts and shirts make up the hip working girl’s wardrobe.
trend report winter 2010/11
Dress Carven Shoes Neil Barrett 9
Dress Celine Belt Celine Boots Eduard Vermeulen
Jacket Balmain Blouse See by Chloe Leather Trousers Balmain Bracelet Akkesoir 11
LIVING IN A MAGAZINE
up wo o l ME me UP WOOL Pullover Michael Kors Bracelet Akkesoir Bag Alexander Wang
Sheep Skin Overcoat Rizal Scarf Burberry Top Anne Claire Skirt Max Mara Bag Marc by Marc Jacobs Cap Muhlbauer
Parka Marc by Marc Jacobs T-shirt Acne Jeans Helmut Lang
Suitjacket J.Lindeberg Trousers Helmut Lang Bracelets by MalĂ¨ne Birger Hat Maison Michel
RENAISSANCE IS THE NEWEST ADDITION TO THE PRINCESS FAMILY. HOUSED IN AN ICONIC BUILDING IN THE MODENATIE, IT WILL BE HOME TO SOME BRAND NEW LABELS, A BAR - RISTORANTE AND CUTTING EDGE DESIGN. THE ARCHITECT, GLENN SESTIG, GIVES US SOME INSIGHT IN THE CHALLENGES AND THE IDEAS IN CREATING THE DESIGN OF ONE OF BELGIUM’S MOST EXCITING NEW STORES.
WHAT WAS YOUR VISION FOR THE INTERIORS OF RENAISSANCE? Because of the location in the Modenatie, where the main lines were already outlined by the architect who had taken on the previous refurbishment, I wanted to keep the basis of this architecture and strengthen it. I pulled through the existing lines in the entire design. I also looked into making the space lighter. The change of use from the original auditorium and brasserie to a Multibrand Store and Bar - Ristorante seemed quite clear from the beginning. We moved the restaurant part to the head of the building situated in the top of the building - in the round part - and we moved the store part with a new entrance to the Nationalestraat next to Copyright, a more commercial approach with a smaller threshold. We also followed the structure of the building further in the functional layout of the store part â€“ the clothing racks are worked as much as possible into the existing structure, loose furniture was architecturally placed between the columns. The Princess Group did ask for flexibility within the layout, so we also integrated moveable clothing racks in the design. In the middle, to contain the white space a little easier, we placed visually floating walls, in carbon colour, like a sculpture into the room. Underneath, central to the shopping space, an element was created where clothes are wrapped and where customers lay contact with the staff and pay. It is like a nightblue eyecatcher in the minimalist white space.
For the restaurant part we collaborated with the owners of Ferrier 30 and Arte, who decided on an open kitchen. Here we also chose floating walls to accentuate the cooking zone and bar, but also seem less present. The open space was quite easily filled with a combination of benches and chairs in different colours and materials. A touch of gold was used to give the minimalist black & white space a sexy vibe. WAS IT EASY TO COMBINE YOUR PERSONAL VISION WITH THE VISION OF PRINCESS?
WHAT INSPIRED YOU MOST DURING THIS PROJECT? To accept the challenge with this space as a whole, to make it stronger and to add a commercial aspect to it. To bring it back to life! RENAISSANCE ALSO HAS A RESTAURANT. HOW DID YOU CONNECT THE FASHION ASPECT TO THE CULINARY PART OF THE STORE?
HOW DID IT FEEL BEING ALLOWED TO WORK ON SUCH AN ICONIC SPACE?
We wanted to create an international feel: New York, Paris, Milan,… everywhere I’ve been in the past few years, fashion seems to be combined with nightlife, bars and restaurants. For me this felt quite natural. The atmosphere of the store will be different to the restaurant part, due to the different functions, but we did approach it as 1 whole. The uniformity in lighting, materials and outline that our architecture created, will bring the two together!
In the beginning it was really hard! But it turned out amazing the longer we worked on it.
nationalestraat 28 - 32 antwerp www.renaissance-antwerp.com
Absolutely! In fact, usually most stores I’ve worked with before put their emphasis on glamour, but here we got to focus on the minimalist. We approached this project a lot more architecturally than usually, due to the already present architecture, but also the vision of of Princess.
At Princess, weâ€™re always looking for young talent to present to our customers, designers who we believe have that something special. This season, weâ€™re very happy to introduce to you the very first collection by Belgian fashion designer Marc Philippe Coudeyre. So who is Marc Philippe Coudeyre?
These are exciting times for Marc Philippe Coudeyre (35). Only 3 years after graduating at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, the designer is on the brink of hitting the big time with his first collection named AVALON. The collection was not only snapped up by Princess exclusively for Belgium (Sketch and Renaissance), but was also handpicked as one of their “25 most promising designers” by Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana to be in their upcoming concept store “Via Della Spiga 2” in Milan.
The road to this point wasn’t always the easiest. Coudeyre originally studied architecture before realising his heart was in fashion. After later graduating from the Academy cum laude, he was immediately snapped up by Edouard Vermeulen to work at Belgian couture label Natan, where he really learned his trade. After 4 seasons, he is very excited about now starting his own line.
His first collection was baptised Avalon, a mix between the 80’s Roxy Music hit and the mysterious island of Avalon, known from the legend of King Arthur. What this really means is that Coudeyre brings together a blend of Eighties rock, with lots of glam elements like gold and copper materials, mixed with a medieval touch found in the rock elements. Eye-catching pieces include a silver jumpsuit, a golden jacket with pants, golden leather shorts and a copper jacket. The softer, very elegant pieces in silk give away his couture history at Natan. And all of it is 100% made in Belgium, something Coudeyre values a lot.
So now he’s finally got his first collection in stores, focus is already on the second one, named KOI. Coudeyre is off to London Fashion Week, then Paris Fashion week, where he will showcase his SS11 collection to the rest of the world – who will no doubt fall in love with him just like we did.
How did the collaboration with Princess come about? In 2007 I met Axel Somers during the “Vitrine Project”,
when I had the chance to create a window display with my graduation collection in the Princess Blue store. Three years later, Axel was the first who dared to purchase my collection. I am very grateful for that.
How do you feel about having your first collection in 2 exciting new stores like this? We are very excited, that our work is appreciated by experienced buyers and we feel very lucky to have the opportunity to display our collection in such prestigious stores in two of the most fashionable cities of Europe: Antwerp and Milano!
Where will we see Marc Philippe Coudeyre in 5 years’ time? Our aim is to create clothes for women who are proud of what they do and who are looking for functional, yet very feminine garments. We want to develop on an international scale and hope to have our first fashion show by then. What is the importance of keeping your label 100% Belgian to you? Being a graduate of the Royal Academy of Antwerp, I worked with different Belgian companies of the garment industry. The exceptional quality standards meet with our wish to create beautiful products.
How does your Architecture background influence your design? “Before you start building you always have to look at the context and the surroundings. Fashion works in the same way”.
How would you describe the Marc Philippe Coudeyre woman? “The woman I have in mind is a mysterious femme fatale, an elegant but strong woman. Fashion is like communication; everybody has to find his own way of dressing. Currently I mix French couture with ethnic elements.”
THE VELVET UNDERGROUND
SUIT J.LINDEBERG SHIRT RAF BY RAF SIMONS TIE NEIL BARRETT
DRESS NATAN FUR WAISTCOAT JOSEPH BRACELET CARVEN EARRINGS ERICSON BEAMON
CARDIGAN MARC BY MARC JACOBS T-SHIRT ACNE
TROUSERS J.LINDEBERG HAT MAISON MICHEL BELT ACNE
SHE GOWN VALENTINO BELT CELINE PURSE DRAP BRACELET YOSHIKO CREATION EARRINGS WOUTERS & HENDRIX SHOES CAMILLA SKOVGAARD HE SUIT ACNE SHOES SC NAPOLI
DRESS PETER PILOTTO SHOES CAMILLA SKOVGAARD
SUIT J. LINDEBERG SHIRT TESTITALIA TIE NEIL BARRET DRESS WHY SHY FUR STOLA AKKESOIR BRACELET CARVEN
SUITJ.LINDEBERG SHIRT RAF BY RAF SIMONS TIE NEIL BARRETT
DRESS MARK FAST
BRANDLIST A Princess Antwerp |Z Princess Knokke |B Princess Blue | R Renaissance S Sketch | L “Little” Princess | Q Space
WOMEN Abro + (A,Z) Acne Jeans (R) Adidas (R,S,A) Aiko (R) Akkesoir (R) Alexander Wang (R,S) Alexia (A,Z) Allude (A,Z) Altea (A,Z) Anne Claire (A,Z) Anne Zellien (A,Z,S) Armani Collezioni (A,Z) Aymara (A,Z,B) Balmain (S) Barlow (R) Blanc Kelly (A,Z) Brax (A,Z) Brunello Cucinelli (A,S) Burberry (A,Z-) Caliban (A,Z) Cambio (A,Z,B) Camilla Skovgaard (R) Carven (R,S) Celine (S) Christian Hirth (A,Z) Christophe Coppens (A,Z,S) Cinzia Rocca (A,Z) Citizens Of Humanity (A,Z,B) Coast (A,S) CominG Soon (R) C.R.A.F.T. (R,S) Drome (R) Drap (A,Z) Eddie Borgo (R) Eduard Vermeulen (A) Emma Cook (R) Essentiel (A,Z,B) Fabiana Filippi (A,Z) Faliero Sarti (A,Z,B,S,R) Fc Farrington (A,Z) Fay (A) Feliz (A,Z,S) Fleamadonna (R) Francesco Scognamiglio (R) Ftc (A,Z,R,S,B) Gossip (A,Z) Gunex (A,Z) Gx-2 (A,S) Hartford (A,Z) Helmut Lang (R) Hogan (A,B) Ingrid Verhoeven (R,S,A) Jeff (A,Z,B) Joanne Vanden Avenne (R,S) Jonathan Saunders (R)
Joseph (A,R) Joyrich (R) Jimmyjane (R) Kaylee Tankus (R,A) Kimberly Ovitz (R) L’ Agence (R,S,A) L’ Altra Moda (A,Z) Lempelius (A,S) Lascivious (R) Le Sentier (A,S) Le Tricot Perugia (A,Z) Les Cordes (A,Z) Linda Farrow (R) Lipsy London (A,B) Marc By Marc Jacobs (A,B,S) Marc Philippe Coudeyre (R,S) Markus Lupfer (R,S) Marella (A,Z) Margiela 6 (R) Marina Rinaldi (A,Z) Mark Fast (R) Malene Birger (A,B,S) Matthew Williamson(R,S) Max Mara (A,Z) Max Mara Black Label (A,Z) Max Mara Studio (A,Z) Max Mara Weekend (A,Z) Msgm (R) Michael By Michael Kors (A,Z,B) Michael Kors (A,S) Mike & Cris (R) Mike Gonzalez (R) Milestone (A,Z) Moncler (A,Z,R,S,B) Moncler Grenoble (R) Monrow By Amber Valetta (R) Moschino Cheap & Chic (A) N 21 (R) Natan (A,Z) Natan Edition 5 (A,Z) Natan+ (A,Z) Naven (R) Neil Barrett (R) Number 4 (R) O Collection (A,Z,B) Odd Molly (A,Z,B) Parajumpers (A,Z,B) Paul & Joe Sister (A,S) Pauw (A,Z) Pennyblack (A) Persona (A,Z) Peter Pilotto (R,S) Peuterey (B,A,Z) Philosophy Di Alberta Ferretti (A,S) Piazza Sempione (A,Z) Play Me Jeans (R) Pleasure Doing Business (R)
Pollini By Jonathan Saunders (R) Post & Co (A,Z) Preen (R) Rag & Bone (R) Rivamonti (A,Z) Rizal (A,Z) Robert Friedman (A,Z) Schneiders (A,Z) See By Chloe (A,S,B) S’ Max Mara (A,Z) Sprb (R) Szen (A,Z) Tigha (A,S,B) Tod’s (A,B) Trussardi (A,Z) Unconditional (R) Uslu Airlines (R,S) Valentino Roma (A) Victoria Beckham (R,S,A) Voltan (A,Z,S,B) Why Shy (R) Willow (R) Wouters & Hendrix (A,S) Y-3 (R)
MEN Acne Jeans (R) Alexander Wang (R) Altea (B) Blue Velvet (R) Closed (R) Dior (R) Eddie Borgo (R) Essentiel (B) Fay (B) Grifoni (B) J,Lindeberg (R) Joyrich (R) Kiryuyrik (R) Kitsune (R) Marc By Marc Jacobs (R) Moncler (R,B) Moncler Grenoble (R) Neil Barrett (R) Parajumpers (B) Peuterey (B) Play Me Jeans (R) Pop (R) Raf By Raf Simons (B) Ralph Lauren (B) Roberto Collina (R) Test Italia (R) Tigha Men (R,B) Used Future (R) Unconditional (R) Y-3 (R)
KIDS Converse (L,A,Z,Q) Anne Kurris (L,A,Q) Anne-Marie Herckes (L,A,Z,Q) Antik Batik (L,A,Q) Armani Junior (L,A,Z) Artigiano Italiano (L,Z,Q) Aymara (L,A,Q,Z) Bonpoint (L,A,Z,Q) Burberry (L,A,Z) Dominique Ver Eecke (L,A,Q)
Eddie Pen (L,A,Z) Essentiel (L,A,Z) Fay (L,A,Z) Finger In The Nose (L,A,Z,Q) First (L,Z) Hakka (L,A,Q) Hartford (A,Q) I Belgium (L,A,Q) Il Gufo (L,A,Z) Imps & Elfs (L,Q) Inge Van Den Broeck (L,A,Q) I Pinco Pallino (L,A,Z) Lili Gaufrette (L,A,Z)
Little Marc (L,A,Q) Maan (L,A,Z,Q) Max & Lola (Q) Mer Du Nord (L,A,Z) Moncler (L,A,Z,Q) Parajumpers (A,Z,Q) Paul Smith (L,Q,Z) Ralph Lauren (L,A,Z) Rita Co Rita (L,A,Q) Simonetta (L,A,Z) Simple Kids (L,A,Q) Van Hassels (L,A,Z)
MEIR 51 - 55 2000 ANTWERPEN 03 231 21 22 NATIONALESTRAAT 28 - 32 2000 ANTWERPEN 03 369 01 08 SCHRIJNWERKERSSTRAAT 5 - 7 2000 ANTWERPEN 03 213 51 21 ZEEDIJK 756 8300 KNOKKE 050 60 36 31 KUSTLAAN 339 - 345 8300 KNOKKE 050 60 93 06 DE WIELINGEN 18 - 20 8300 KNOKKE 050 33 62 33
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