JUNE 15 2013 £4.75 www.drapersonline.com
FASHION WEEK A-grade collections from this year’s class of student designers LONDON COLLECTIONS
Our exclusive men’s show preview / P28
CLOSE-UP HoF’s Allan
Winstanley shakes up womenswear / P16
SHOPWATCH We check
out Selfridges’ new Denim Studio / P18
THE WEEK Drapers COVER IMAGE: GFW GEORGE GOLD AWARD WINNER LAUREN SMITH / CATWALKING.COM
Get in the mood for spring 14 menswear
Telephone House, 69-77 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NQ Tel: 020 3033 2600 Email: email@example.com EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Caroline Nodder, 020 3033 2759 Deputy Editor Ana Santi, 020 3033 2760 News Editor Catherine Neilan, 020 3033 2771 Senior News Reporter Victoria Gallagher, 020 3033 2861 Reporter Jill Geoghegan, 020 3033 2767 Features Editor James Knowles, 020 3033 2761 Fashion Director Ian Wright, 020 3033 2763 Junior Fashion Editor Graeme Moran, 020 3033 2768 Junior Fashion Writer Emily Norval, 020 3033 2914 Online Editor Keely Stocker, 020 3033 2762 Group Stores Editor John Ryan, 020 3033 2997 Deputy Special Projects Editor David Brooks, 020 3033 2846 Group Art Director Alison Fisher, 020 3033 2764 Group Production Editor Steve Draper, 020 3033 2765 Deputy Production Editor Digby Bodenham, 020 3033 4235 Senior Sub-Editor Alice Hall, 020 3033 4268 Supplements Production Editor Tracey Gardner, 020 3033 2769 Editorial Administrator Nadine McKen, 020 3033 2770 Contributors Simon Adamson
You may be sitting on more spring 13 stock than you’d have imagined halfway through June after an unseasonably cold start to the season, but it’s already time to prepare for spring 14. This week, we bring you a preview of London Collections: Men ((p28), with a sneak peek at the labels to watch ahead of the weekend. It should also get you in the mood for menswear show Pitti Uomo in Florence next week. Speaking of menswear, we catch up with House of Fraser’s Allan Winstanley, who swapped his menswear remit for womenswear almost 10 months ago, but is applying his menswear recipe to transform the women’s business (p16). If you’re looking to find the next generation of design talent, then look no further than p36 – our coverage of Graduate Fashion Week and the biggest winners on the gala night, including the recipient of the George at Asda Gold Award. Finally, if you didn’t make it to our Etail Awards on Wednesday, here’s a round-up of all the winners (p20). And for more news on the awards – and across the fashion industry – log on to Drapersonline.com (it’s free to subscribers – just log in using your subscriber number).
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CONTENTS Issue 15.06.13 REGULARS
2_ News Our edit of the week’s news, including H&M’s results and Jane Norman 9_ Opinion Comment from The Bio Agency’s Peter Veash and Becci Cornelius of Ann’s Cottage Surf Shops 12_ Fashion Index Trading info in the UK and overseas, plus the Indie Index 20_ PayPal Etail
PUBLISHING Managing Director Retail Group Tracey Davies, 020 3033 2895 Chief Executive of EMAP Natasha Christie-Miller, 020 3033 2691 PA to Chief Executive of EMAP Clair Sabel, 020 3033 2692 Subscriptions UK £249, UK independent retailers £195. Europe (by airmail) £342, worldwide airmail £356. EMAP Publishing Ltd. For UK subscription queries please call 0844 848 8858. For all other subscription queries please call 01604 828705. Newstrade Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd. Tel: 020 7396 8095. Origination by F1 Colour, Copperfield St, London SE1. Printed and bound by Headley Brothers, Ashford, Kent, TN24 8HH. ISSN Number: 1479–1617. Drapers is published by EMAP, part of Top Right Group Ltd. © EMAP 2013
All the winners from this year’s celebration of etail excellence in London 44_ Careers Kaleidoscope’s head of marketing Helen North on her rise up the ranks 56_ This Fashion Life Aitor Throup tells us about his skull bag
and his anatomical design inspiration FEATURES
16_ Close-Up How Allan Winstanley is shaking up the womenswear offer at House of Fraser 18_ Shopwatch Selfridges aims to become London’s jeans capital with its new Denim Studio
23_ This Week’s Hero We’re excited about the Designer Showrooms at London Collections: Men 24_ The Buzz Hot trends and brands, including Rascals’ and Diesel’s Jogg Jeans line 27_ Style Council Do you see London Collections: Men as an event for buying or simply viewing?
28_ LCM Preview Ahead of next week’s catwalks, designers give us an exclusive insight into their collections 36_ GFW 2013 The award-winning collections from this year’s gathering of student talent 42_ GFW Interview We catch up with last year’s Gold Award winner, Chloe Jones
Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 1
_Ana Santi, deputy editor
Rivals pile pressure on underperforming H&M / Multiples /
Analysts warn that previously dominant chain could spiral into decline if it fails to up its game against rivals
Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 2
By Catherine Neilan
Swedish fast-fashion giant H&M faces a drop in customer loyalty as a result of increased competition and a poor online experience, analysts have said. The retailer this week published second-quarter sales figures showing a 4% decline in like-for-like sales since March. Although last month was flat, H&M Group’s March sales dropped 12% and April only edged up 1%. It has seen similar monthly declines over the past year, variously blaming both excessively cold and excessively hot weather as well as currency fluctuations, tough comparisons and the economy. But analysts have warned this could be the beginning of a decline for the retailer, which has until now dominated high streets in the UK and further afield. While H&M has blamed external factors for its decline, experts claim it is intensified competition from the likes of Primark and Asos that is denting sales. Independent analyst Nick Bubb said: “Just as New Look has been struggling in what is a pretty competitive young fashion market, H&M has been underperforming. Primark is becoming a problem for it, not just in the UK but in Germany and as it goes to other markets H&M’s monthly like-for-likes vs previous year May 2013
like France, and it’s hurting other European operators too.” Bubb noted that Zara owner Inditex, which published its first-quarter results this week, was “also pretty flat” and that “H&M has been underperforming Inditex for a while now – on product, on segmentation and on store format”. Asos was also becoming a serious contender in Europe, Bubb noted. “It’s still small beer compared with H&M and Inditex but the bigger it gets the more impact it will have.” Verdict Retail associate analyst Jessica Fioriti said competition had “caused H&M’s overall customer loyalty to fall”. While Primark was luring younger customers away, retailers such as Whistles were also undercutting the 35 to 44-year-old customers targeted by H&M’s Cos chain. Fioriti also identified Asos – which
Fashion dilemma: H&M’s product is losing out to cheaper retailers such as Primark
reported a 43% increase in sales for the three months to May 13 – as a threat to the Swedish giant. “[H&M] should further invest in its online experience as it’s not comparable to the likes of Asos and River Island,” she told Drapers. Ashma Kunde, apparel analyst at market research firm Euromonitor, said: “Primark expanding into western Europe could pose a threat to H&M, especially since it is its core market. H&M has lost its focus, and is trying to be all things to all people – launching sportswear, a red carpet collection, the Conscious Collection – there is a lot going on. Primark is more centred and it knows who it’s talking to.” H&M declined to comment. Has H&M taken its eye off the ball? Read Catherine Neilan’s thoughts at www.drapersonline.com/blogs
/ Independents /
falling short isabel marant x h&m: the most uninspiring collaboration yet? www.drapersonline.com/ blogs
playing chicken? harvey nichols was among those kicking off their summer sale this week
By Victoria gallagher & Jill geoghegan
Independent retailers are holding fire on launching summer Sales early despite promotions spreading rapidly across the high street this week. Department store chains House of Fraser and Selfridges launched their summer Sales this week, along with multiples including H&M and uSC. Luxury retailers Harrods, Harvey nichols, Liberty and Matches also kicked off their Sales with savings of up to 50%. Debenhams is also advertising a 50% promotion, although a spokeswoman said this was not the retailer’s official summer Sale. Indies told Drapers that despite this they would attempt to retain margin by selling at full price. Chris Roche, owner of young fashion indie Ciren Jeans in Cirencester, said despite slow sales caused by bad weather he would remain at full price.
“I’ve started to see the big etailers discounting heavily. That’s something brands need to look at if they want to keep their indies onside,” he added. Henry Scott, assistant buyer and supervisor at young fashion indie Javelin, which has two stores in Suffolk, said savvy buying meant there was no need to ditch stock at lower prices. He added: “The weather was undoubtedly a consideration when we were buying for this season. We cut down on the number of shorts and made sure we bought styles that would work for next season. It has definitely helped us in the long run.” Denise Potter, owner of three-store Suffolk womenswear indie Darcy B, said despite summery items being difficult to shift in overcast weather, she would also hold firm. “We never go on Sale early. We try to match prices rather than reducing entire stock lines,” she said.
/ Ecommerce /
amazon wins Consumer Etail award Pure-play giant Amazon has taken home the Consumer Choice prize at the Drapers & Retail Week PayPal etail Awards for the second year in a row. Organised in association with market research company OnePoll, more than 6,000 consumers voted in the award category, placing Amazon on top. The PayPal etail Awards, which took place in London on June 12, celebrated the best in fashion etail. Winners included Topshop, which won the Best use of Innovation award for its London Fashion Week initiative. The Smaller Pure-Play etailer category was taken home by furniture
company Loaf, which was commended for having a strong brand proposition. Best Mobile-Optimised Site was a closely fought category, with John Lewis pipping Reiss to the post. Childrensalon won Success Digital Best Multichannel – Small, while footwear retailer Dune scooped Best Redesign/Relaunch. Best Digital Marketing award went to Very, which was commended for an integrated cross-channel campaign. To see the full list of winners at this year’s PayPal Etail Awards, turn to p20
News in Numbers
number oF primark piEcEs launching on asos as part oF its trial
pre-tax earnings at maTaLan For the year to February 28
1.3% increase in EBiTda aT hoBBs in the year to January 26
sales at Zara parent company indiTEx in the three months to april 30
rise in asos sales to £197m in the three months to may 31
7,070 sq ft Floorspace at cath Kidston London fLagship to open later this year
Drapers / June 15 2013 _ 3
Indies hold fire as chains jump into summer Sales
Young fashion /
Jane Norman to get makeover as it moves upmarket
Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 4
By Jill Geoghegan
Jane Norman is preparing to unveil a reinvented look for autumn 13 – but the young fashion retailer has angered some suppliers by cancelling orders at the last minute. No imagery has yet been shot but Philip Day, chief executive of Jane Norman’s parent company Edinburgh Woollen Mill (EWM), said the new collection would focus on separates, denim and a “head-to-toe signature look” rather than the “glitzy gypsy wedding-style dresses” the company has produced in the past. Price points of the ‘New Jane’ will remain the same “on the whole”, but Day said the quality of the product has been “vastly improved”. He said: “There was a lot wrong with the brand at the beginning and we had to reinvent the collections for
Jane. It has been a slow and difficult process but we have dealt with the situation properly and worked through it with stores that we didn’t necessarily want to keep open.” EWM acquired Jane Norman two years ago, and Day committed to opening 50 to 75 stores over a 15-month period. However, the business is now looking to downsize, with Day confirming he was reviewing individual
‘There was a lot wrong with Jane Norman and we had to reinvent the collections’ Philip Day, chief executive, Jane Norman owner EWM
stores when leases came up. He told Drapers the strategy was to “remove Jane Norman from the mass market and make the brand more exclusive.” Day is also looking to expand Jane Norman internationally, with plans to enter China, Japan, South Korea and India in the next two years. At present the retailer has 20 stores in the Middle East. He said: “Jane Norman has the potential to be the next great British brand on the international market. Unlike Peacocks and other mass-market retailers, Jane Norman is a fashion brand and could be rolled out to a huge customer base across the globe.” But while EWM is looking to move Jane Norman in a new direction, Drapers has learned that suppliers are being left out of pocket through last-minute cancellations of orders. One such case saw a supplier losing out to the tune of five figures. Day said poor weather had dampened trading, and therefore “every fashion retailer” was being cautious about stock intake. He insisted orders were only being cancelled for “late or inferior products”. Jane Norman has undergone a significant period of change since it was bought out by EWM, including the closure of its London headquarters, which resulted in around 40 redundancies.
No more glitz: collections like spring 13 will be a thing of the past
Becksöndergaard invests in leather and tees By Jill Geoghegan
Danish scarf and accessories label Becksöndergaard is extending its range following a cash injection from private equity firm Valedo. The partnership will see a continued emphasis on “developing and cementing” the accessories label in the UK and international markets, as well as expanding the brand’s T-shirt and leather collections. Becksöndergaard founder Anna Søndergaard said the label would “take a step further” with its T-shirt range to “bring it into line with the look of the scarves”. Its leather accessories range, which had been “a bit neglected” due to a lack of funding, will now “match the level of the rest of the Becksöndergaard label”.
Expansion kitty: Becksöndergaard plans to use the cash to grow its collection
The brand is currently stocked in 120 outlets in the UK and Søndergaard said she wanted to “strengthen existing relationships”, rather than “aggressively expanding” into other stores. Deryane Tadd, owner of St Albans womenswear indie The Dressing Room, said sales of Becksöndergaard were up 146% at the store this season. Although this was largely driven by scarves, Tadd said T-shirts were “selling well”. She added: “People like the Becksöndergaard aesthetic. The prints are easy to wear and work well with the other brands in store. The price points are great too – customers feel they can afford to invest in a couple of items at a time to pull a whole look together.” Wholesale prices range from £9 to £70, with a mark-up of 2.5 to 2.7.
Morrisons ramps up Nutmeg roll-out
Picture caption style three lines deep please Picture caption style three lines
Morrisons’ kidswear line Nutmeg could enter 300 of its stores in the next couple of years as the supermarket chain looks to build the brand nationwide. Nutmeg, which launched into 80 stores 10 weeks ago, has already expanded to 130 stores and is moving into three new branches every week. Head designer Katy Percival said it would be available at 200 locations by the end of the year but there was an “appetite to go on to more”. However, there are still no plans for Nutmeg to be made available online as Morrisons will not have a transactional website for its food arm until next February. Clothing is expected to follow, but there is no timeline as yet. The team also insisted it was still focusing on kidswear – the autumn 13 range has built on the launch collection, with a bright “happiness” theme complementing a more muted “craftwork” theme – and had no plans to launch adult clothing. “We have no fixed plans to do that, we just want to concentrate on kids,” Percival said. “We would have to do lots of research first into what customers would want [from an adult range].”
top of the class CoLLECtioN HigHLigHtS FroM tHiS yEar’S graduatE FaSHioN wEEk award wiNNErS p36
News in Brief Stella McCartney ups denim offer
Designer womenswear label Stella McCartney is expanding its denim range for spring 14, offering 10 styles in 20 washes, including prints and colours. The styles will focus on jeans and shorts in skinny, wide-leg or boyfriend fits with a low, high or mid-rise. Currently, the website stocks 12 denim items in total.
Child’s death to be investigated
Hugo Boss has said it will assist authorities with an investigation after a four-year-old child died after a mirror fell on him at the retailer’s Bicester Village store. Hugo Boss said the company was “devastated by this tragic accident”.
Emma Hill leaves Mulberry
Mulberry creative director Emma Hill (pictured) is leaving the luxury brand after more than five years at the helm. Reports said her exit followed disagreements with management over creative and operational strategy. It comes a month after Mulberry non-executive director Robin Gibson stepped down.
Fourmarketing wins Lot78
Distributor Fourmarketing has bolstered its brand portfolio with British contemporary label Lot78. From spring 14 the company will manage distribution both in the UK and internationally for the menswear and womenswear brand, which already counts Net-a-Porter and Harrods among its stockists.
Subscribe The King’s Road Sporting Club is facing closure after 20 years. Initially suppliers were told the store would be closing this September but that has been pushed back to next April, leaving the business “frantically” trying to secure stock.
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Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 5
News What's the biG idea? deSigNerS prepAriNg for LoNdoN CoLLeCtioNS: meN teLL uS tHe iNSpirAtioNS beHiNd tHeir CoLLeCtioNS p28
Hunting for stockists: Samsøe & Samsøe
/ Brands /
Changing path: New Look chief executive Anders Kristiansen has ‘streamlined’ the team
Drapers / June 15 2013 _ 6
/ People /
New Look chief axes five in management shake-up By Catherine Neilan
new Look’s chief executive has started putting his mark on the fast-fashion retailer with a restructure that has seen several high-profile departures with immediate effect. This week, five directors or department heads were made redundant as part of what one source described as Anders Kristiansen “streamlining” management. Customer and multichannel managing director Guy Lister – who last year was heralded as playing a key role in new Look’s digital future – was the most senior member of staff to go. He was joined by head of commercial development James Brien, Fiona Forrest, head of merchandising for
denim, knitwear, formal and casual jersey, HR director David Bannister and Anna Lloyd, head of HR. The restructure, which has also seen the promotion of group buying director Roger Wightman to managing director of buying, merchandising and design, comes just months after the surprise departure of footwear and accessories boss Malcolm Collins. new Look declined to comment, but insiders indicated it was Kristiansen starting to put his stamp on the business six months into the role. “Anders wants direct input into certain parts of the business, including marketing and multichannel, so this will allow him to do that,” one source said.
/ Womenswear /
GFW winner crowd funds collection Former Graduate Fashion Week winner Kelly Shaw is using crowd funding to finance her spring 14 collection. Shaw, who won the womenswear award in 2007, said that while orders were already coming in for next year, it had been “impossible” to secure funding from banks. She said: “The push needs to be on the creative side of things rather than the commercial. If, like me, you are a new designer in the industry, you just can’t compete without a huge budget.
It’s easy to see why so many people fail when they are just starting out.” The former Drapers cover star has raised a third of her £4,800 funding target on Sponsume.com and has until June 26 to generate the remainder. Shaw said the money would go towards fabric lining, a first sample production, screen printing and a photo shoot. Shaw’s spring 13 womenswear collection is currently stocked at etailer Young British Designers, with retail prices ranging from £160 to £450.
Zone Two gears up for expansion Distributor Zone Two is targeting new stockists and opening shop-in-shops as it looks to expand. Sales director Chris Akrimi, who was promoted a month ago, will spearhead the growth. “I’m looking to strategically drive the business in new revenue streams by way of brand acquisitions, shop-in-shop concepts and maximising our current portfolio to make sure they are reaching their full potential,” he said. Zone Two will work with young fashion label Scotch & Soda’s existing 120 accounts to develop the business while launching shop-in-shops, with a 550 sq ft space opening in Harrods for autumn 13. Scandinavian contemporary brand Samsøe & Samsøe has 45 stockists but Akrimi plans to up this to 70 for spring 14. Akrimi also hopes to increase performancewear range Dual-ism Project’s stockists from the 30 already secured for its debut season in autumn 13 to around 45 for spring 14. Its second season will see the brand expand into new categories including jerseywear, knitwear, polos and T-shirts. Zone Two is in discussions to take on several “high-profile” brands, although Akrimi could not disclose further details. To help facilitate the planned growth, Zone Two has acquired more than 3,000 sq ft of showroom space close to its offices near Old Street, north London.
‘I’m looking to strategically drive new revenue streams’ Chris Akrimi, sales director, Zone Two
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Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 9
Decline at H&M as it falls short of etail greatness _ Caroline Nodder
he news this week that H&M has posted another decline in like-for-like sales this quarter underlines again the fact that huge pressure on retailers in the current market means you are only as good as your last collection. With competition in the UK market as fierce as it has ever been, it is interesting that industry observers quote a ‘pincer movement’ by two British companies, Asos and Primark, as being partly to blame for the continued slowdown in sales at the Swedish young fashion chain. So what’s gone wrong for the retailer which at one time led the fast-fashion segment and grabbed countless millions of column inches with its high-profile and critically acclaimed collaborations? First, in arguably the most price-sensitive part of the fashion market, if H&M is not going to be the cheapest (that honour goes to Primark) then it needs to offer its shoppers something more fashion forward than its direct competitors or invest in quality, store experience or customer service to offset the extra cost. For a while H&M was doing just that, using clever collaborations to give product the wow factor and give shoppers a reason to visit – we all remember the queues around the block for the Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Lanvin collections. But this trick has lost its effectiveness and some of the more recent efforts – notably Versace and Maison Martin Margiela – were lacking in
commercial pieces and, not to put too fine a point on it, looked cheap. They ended up on Sale, not a good sign for a collection that is meant to pull people in store. Meanwhile, the quality of the standard collections has certainly not outshone Primark and the store environments now also arguably lag behind too, after Primark upped its game with stores such as its new Tottenham Court Road flagship. But in my view the main problem for H&M lies online. I was chatting to one retail chief executive a couple of weeks ago, before these latest results came out, about what customers now expected online from fashion retailers. H&M came up in conversation at least twice in the context of how not to do it – a bad sign. Asos is wiping the floor with most good etail offerings, and it is tough to compete, but check out the H&M website and you’ll see how far off the mark it is. It looks basic, lacks functionality and, where Asos gives you content and community, H&M sticks with grid format product listings – not inspiring to the younger shopper. But my top complaint is delivery. H&M only delivers in the daytime to a domestic address, and it usually takes a week to arrive. So you receive a ‘we tried to deliver but you were out’ card and have to wait even longer. I’m not going to lie – I’ve stopped ordering online with H&M altogether, and you can bet I’m not the only one. Drapers editor-in-chief / email@example.com
TELL US YOUR THOUGHTS – DO YOU THINK H&M IS LOSING OUT TO ITS COMPETITORS? www.drapersonline.com
/ Talking Business /
‘Asos’s established platform is a perfect match for Primark’ _ Peter Veash
Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 10
e all spoke too soon when Primark said it would not be pursuing ecommerce last month, as trialling products through Asos is super-smart. Primark is taking advantage of a highly established platform already in place with an already doting audience that plays right into its hands. How convenient for Primark that Asos offers a brand experience that goes beyond one path to purchase. Needless to say, this strategy has drawn a vast and loyal customer base. Distributing through a large site that’s already hugely successful with Primark’s target audience means the retailer is not required to invest in developing ecommerce platforms and, furthermore, spend time
creating engagement from scratch with its target customers. What’s more, Asos and Primark are the perfect match, both famed for their cheap and stylish products aimed at young shoppers. As customers look to identify with a brand, low prices may no longer be enough to entice customers into the store. Digital needs to be at the heart of a business model and this is set to grow in significance with the roll-out of 4G next month, aiding shopping on-the-go to become even more speedy and convenient. This partnership, where Primark shadows Asos, couldn’t be sweeter. Chief executive of digital creative agency The Bio Agency
/ Talking Shop /
‘Good customer service will win over disposable fashion’ _ Becci Cornelius
t’s becoming increasingly important for consumers to know exactly what they’re buying. Where did it come from? What makes it better than the one I can find for half the price? The love affair with fast-paced, throwaway fashion is showing no sign of diminishing, but it is giving indie retailers the chance to shine. There’s growing demand for transparency in the retail industry, allowing customers to make informed decisions not entirely governed by the price tag. As an indie, we are taking every possible opportunity to stand apart from the alternatives. Staff are knowledgeable about product, breeding confidence and passion in
the team, which in turn creates a better experience for our customers. People are astute about disposable fashion, understanding the reasons behind the low price. If we can offer outstanding service and unrivalled quality, it isn’t always about how much something costs. Good customer service and product knowledge are priceless. Enticing people from behind their computer screens to embrace an honest shopping experience doesn’t need a complicated formula. At Ann’s Cottage, we’ve learnt from 35 years of practice that people will always buy from people. Director of Ann’s Cottage Surf Shops, which has eight stores in Cornwall
NEWS & VIEWS READ OPINIONS ON THE BIGGEST FASHION STORIES BY CHECKING OUT THE DRAPERS BLOG AT
05 Comments from Drapersonline.com
01 ‘Republic’s future in doubt’ – With footfall dropping and etail growing, retailers don’t have much choice but to close or push the supply chain for sustainability. Landlords, are you willing to have empty malls? Anonymous
02 ‘B&B imposes €500 entry fee on non-buyers’ – Brands beware, this will be the hardest sell ever. Trade shows will struggle to get Brits and the Irish to travel Anonymous
03 ‘Mystery buyer close to Coggles deal’ – Well it can be only one of two players. JD or Sports Direct. Either one will be a shame, and just another nail in the industry’s coffin Anonymous
04 I think you may be surprised, I don’t think it is. A new player in the arena may be found at the bottom of this garden path Anonymous
05 ‘Wholesale arm to close as Jackpot and Cottonfield sold’ – IC Companys never understood the UK market, that’s for sure. Pan-European ranges rarely work Anonymous
Online Poll This week’s poll result Do you have the skills you need to progress your career? YES
45% 55% This week’s question Is H&M losing out to Primark and Asos? www.drapersonline.com
‘Best Multichannel Retailer - Small’
#Congrats to this year’s winner
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‘Pop-up shops pave the way for retail innovation’ _ Dan Coen
Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 12
wo important forces seem to be converging in the retail sector. First, we’re seeing a lot of distressed businesses being held back by their legacy bricks-and-mortar business models and, second, there are a number of young, innovative fashion businesses that are thriving but would benefit from a more flexible property portfolio. Enter a clever website called Appear Here, an online marketplace that allows people to book short-term retail spaces around the UK. It’s a smart idea that has clear benefits for retailers that want to avoid hefty start-up expenses – and who don’t want the fixed cost and associated headaches of a long-term lease. People often complain about the lack of innovation in retail but this concept is very clever. The model effectively gives up-and-coming retailers all the benefits of a bricks-and-mortar shop but with fewer obligations, which means they’ll be more willing to take chances and try out new and creative ideas. For example, a pop-up shop has just opened to sell products from businesses set up by students at University College London (UCL). The Launchbox shop in Shoreditch, east London, will sell products including clothing, jewellery and posters designed and made by student entrepreneurs. Short-term deals like these not only give landlords the opportunity to speak to fledgling businesses that can’t yet secure a permanent retail space of their own but also give them an instant pipeline to the country’s next wave of creative and inspiring retailers. Plus, landlords can use these relationships to see what works (and what doesn’t) in their location, so they can make more informed choices when deciding on their next tenant. The Government and commercial landlords both agree that empty shops have become a real blight on the retail landscape – and pop-up shops may be the answer. Short-term lets like these will help to create a much more dynamic high street, with new shops bringing fresh ideas to areas that have begun to look like ghost towns. Even though UK retail still faces many challenges, a healthy dose of flexibility and creativity can only help this hard-hit market. Even if short-term leases can’t solve all our problems, pop-up shops could be a clever way of revitalising the high street and town centres. Director, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper
WEEKLY FOOTFALL RETAIL INDEX
National UK footfall figures Week 23 – June 3 to 9, 2013
-8.6% YEAR-ON-YEAR CHANGE
The latest national retail traffic report from Experian FootFall shows a 8.3% week-on-week decline in shopper traffic and a decline of 8.6% year on year. The daily figures reflect the fact that last year was the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee and extended holiday. Monday and Tuesday show a year-on-year uplift of 6.4% and 3.2% respectively; last year both days performed poorly as most consumers focused on the celebrations. The rest of the week shows a sharp decline year on year. Last year saw a huge rise as many people shopped during extended breaks after the two-day bank holiday.
HIGH STREET SALES TRACKER
Like-for-like sales figures across the high street Week ending June 9, 2013
-0.04% Total fashion
The fashion index posted flat like-for-like sales figures and mixed results within the sector. Generally, fashion reported strong results, but a number of retailers with negative results brought the figure down. For more information, email Don Williams at BDO at don.williams.bdo.co.uk
The UK’s employment hot spot and the most popular roles
The most applied for jobs 1. Sales 11.9% NOTTINGHAM 23.41%
2. Design 6.9% 3. Merchandising 5.7% 4. Production 4.8%
Highest growth location (defined by % increase in traffic to DrapersJobs week on week)
5. Buying 3.9% As a percentage of total applications on DrapersJobs last week
ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES
/ Talking Trade /
SALES & TRENDS – MAIL-ORDER WOMENSWEAR
The traditional mail-order womenswear sector is in growth but at a slower pace than the total online womenswear market
Retail sector share £%
Average selling price
Number of units
24 weeks ending April, 14, 2013 versus 2012
Natasha Shatford, category analyst, Kantar Worldpanel
24 weeks ending April 14, 2013 versus 2012, according to Kantar Worldpanel Fashion
Increase in average prices at mail-order retailers, deterring women from shopping online
Drop in sales of women’s underwear, the sharpest decline in mail-order firms’ online business
Shoppers are putting fewer items in online baskets (-3.2%), and a rise in average prices often deters them from buying large baskets
The five top stories from around the globe ● GAP will introduce its brand to Paraguay
and Hungary through new agreements with existing franchise partners. These partners are Neutral in Paraguay and Gottex Brands in Hungary. Neutral launched Gap in Uruguay in November 2012.
● ZARA HOME has opened an outlet in
Madrid’s Calle Hermosilla with a click-and-collect counter. The service will be rolled out to other stores if successful. Inditex is also considering launching click-andcollect for Stradivarius and Pull & Bear.
● NEIMAN MARCUS has reported that AUSTRALIA PARAGUAY
sales increased 3.8% to $1.10bn (£729m) in its third quarter of fiscal 2013. On a comparable store basis, its sales were up 3.6% from the same period a year ago.
● MYER fashion chief Nicole Naccarella said
etail has changed shopper behaviour in store. The department store is stocking both winter and summer fashions so shoppers don’t have to wait to buy Northern Hemisphere trends.
Women with the disposable income to buy a designer coat will buy it in November and put it away because they have to have it Nicole Naccarella, group general manager for women’s fashion, Myer
● PULL & BEAR has opened its first German
store. On Tauentzienstrasse, Berlin’s main commercial street, it has a sales area of around 7,500 sq ft. The Inditex-owned young fashion chain has been selling online in Germany since September 2011.
Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 13
Best-selling brands of the week
Best-selling brands of the week
Top 10 1
Diane von Furstenberg
Paul & Shark
tAKINGS tHIS WEEK -2.5% year-on-year change
-4.2% year-on-year change
£277 AVERAGE SPEND
Best-selling categories of the week 1
Brands with the best sell-through
Brands with the best sell-through Diane von Furstenberg
Week ending June 8, 2013
Armani Jeans Boss Black
Brands with the best margin 1
Diane von Furstenberg
-9% FOOtFAll Change for week ending June 8, 2013 compared with same week in 2012
Brands with the best margin 1
Paul & Shark
AVERAGE MONtHlY tAKINGS
FOOtFAll Change for week ending June 8, 2013 compared with same week in 2012
82 THE bIg NumbEr
Comparative four-week periods (2012 v 2013) for the UK independent retail sector
Week ending June 8, 2013
of indies will introduce new brands for spring 14
AVERAGE NuMBER OF uNItS SOlD
Data for April 29 to May 26, 2013, compared with the same period in 2012. Data provided by Top to Toe, fashion industry stock management and EPoS specialists (Top to Toe: 0845 130 3535)
ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES
Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 14
tAKINGS tHIS WEEK
Best-selling categories of the week
We're proud to work with some of the nationâ€™s most respected retailers including George, Harvey Nichols, John Lewis, Mint Velvet, SuperGroup, Tesco and Whistles. They trust us because of our unique mix of ability and agility. It's why we're considered to be the UK's specialist when it comes to fashion and multichannel logistics. To find out more visit www.clippergroup.co.uk or call our Managing Director, Tony Mannix on 0113 204 2050. Clipper is proud to sponsor the PayPal Etail Awards 2013. Logistics evolved.
CLOSE-UP I allan winstanley
Putting the House in order
Since taking over womenswear at House of Fraser last year, Allan Winstanley has been applying the same winning formula that made its menswear a success Drapers / June 15 2013 _ 16
Words by CATHERINE NEILAN Photography by TOM CAMPBELL
llan winstanley is a man with a plan. almost 10 months after switching from House of Fraser’s menswear department to lead its womenswear division, he already has a clear sense of how to turn around the business to become a real contender again. winstanley added womenswear to his accessories and beauty brief last autumn after stephanie Chen – who had been responsible for the division for nearly four years – announced her departure for Marks & spencer. HoF does not break down its results by department but its recent annual figures show a 3.3% rise in like-for-likes to £1.2bn for the year to January 26, 2013. winstanley says womenswear underperforms menswear, although it is in “modest growth”. Gross profit, which rose to a record high of £403.8m, is stronger thanks to improved stock management, but winstanley is focusing on autumn 13 as the moment for change. winstanley believes the department has suffered from a lack of focus for many years. “i’ve always been critical of how our womenswear business was run,” he says. “it’s always been tracking behind our other fashion and beauty areas and, being in the business as long as i have, i already had a fair idea of the changes i wanted to make.” He isn’t the only one who saw the need for improvement. the chief executive of one concession tells Drapers he has “a real challenge on his hands”. “allan’s big job is to define why you would shop at HoF. strategically it’s quite disjointed,
and the proposition is quite out of touch with the vision of how women shop today. she doesn’t shop by age, she doesn’t see herself as a ‘classic’ woman, and they need to adapt to that.” winstanley appears to agree. He gave himself 90 days to forge a clear direction but it became apparent within a fortnight. “there was no point waiting – i wanted to get on,” he says. When he first took on the brief he began “to assess where i felt structural blockages were”. this prompted staff moves and redundancies, notably for concessions director for womenswear sue Dunn, who had been at HoF for 16 years, and Marie Jones, design director of womenswear and accessories. in their place, a new team emerged. Claudia Battistel has been promoted to director of external brands for womenswear, while anna Rogoza has joined from Oasis to become buying manager for womenswear house brands. Chris Pitts has moved up to director of merchandise and Jakki Pay was promoted to head of womenswear design. within accessories, samantha Henworth is buying manager and susan Campbell is director of merchandise, with sandy Rayner as design manager. “everyone now is accountable for their own areas,” winstanley says. “in the past there was a lot of grey, where it could get a bit muddled. Fundamentally, the structure wasn’t particularly customer-focused but now it’s very simple.” House brands have similarly been tackled, with pricing a prime focus. From autumn 13 the 10 brands – which include Pied a terre, linea and Biba – will all feature lower entry prices. For example, Biba handbags typically started at
around £160; from next season, the cheapest will be £89, something winstanley says was “key to getting volume in the business again”. the Mary Portas range, which has dresses costing around £150, will see roughly 30% of the collection come in below the £100 mark. Quality is not being compromised, winstanley insists, but the move will result in a more defined “good, better, best” offering. “the analogy i always use is that we were ‘all icing and not much cake’. we still need that top tier but it just wasn’t driving the kind of volumes we wanted, unless we discounted,” he explains. as a result, he also hopes the department store business will resort less to deep discounting, using promotional activity far more strategically than in the past. He shrugs off the impact of competitors such as Debenhams, whose heavy discounting often sets a trend that the rest of the high street is compelled to follow. “we’ve been slaves to promotional activity and partly it’s been a situation of our making,” he says. as well as pricing, work has been put into better defining the brands. there is now one designer per label to improve focus and clarity. winstanley expects these changes to boost the business, which last year outperformed the branded side, but adds it is unlikely to become a more dominant part of HoF’s proposition. “i don’t foresee our house brand business taking more than 20% of floor space, although it’ll probably drive 25% of sales,” he says. “we’re a branded business first and foremost.” this side of the company is also set for an overhaul, with more than 20 new brands being added to the mix this autumn.
Drapers / June 15 2013 _ 17 none of the existing labels are being dropped for the time being. winstanley says concessions are being “squidged” to add more product density to the shop floor but “natural selection” will see some of the more “sluggish” performers edged out over time. He avoids citing names but notes “our older, classic brands are definitely in decline” and need a serious shake-up if they are to reverse their fortunes. But it is clear that he believes HoF’s future lies with the style and trend-led labels. AUtUMn WiLL see hof introDUCe German lifestyle brand Hal Huber, MaxMara’s sub-brand sportMax and Hugo Boss woman, among others. it will also feature a Paperdolls concession – the new short-order, slightly older brand from the people behind women’s young fashion brand little Mistress. winstanley is conscious of the need for HoF to “give ourselves a point of difference, a reason for women to come”. while there is enthusiasm for the future under winstanley, some remain sceptical. the chief executive of another womenswear
concession told Drapers the strategy was still unclear and that the new brands being brought in “don’t seem to have much cohesion”. “they go from one extreme to the other – some of them are quite bizarre – and it doesn’t seem to hang together in any strategic way,” she says. “i don’t really see any real quality of management within that business. is it a downmarket selfridges or is it an upmarket Debenhams? i don’t know.”
‘We were all icing and not much cake – that top tier wasn’t driving the volumes we wanted’
nevertheless, winstanley is confident in his plan, which largely applies the same strategy that made HoF’s menswear such a success: breaking the discounting cycle, dropping out-of-date profiling methods for a more modern approach, ramping the typical brand profile up to a more premium level and tightening adjacencies. Currently these are “all over the place, the zoning of our stores is a muddle”, he admits. so from autumn 13, HoF’s three flagships – london Oxford street, Manchester and Glasgow – will all be rejigged around three new profile categories: fast fashion, contemporary and lifestyle. if the trial is successful, it will be rolled out further. all of this means autumn 13 is make or break time for winstanley but he is brimming with confidence. “we’re bringing in 20-odd new brands to womenswear, 50 into accessories. we’ve completely re-engineered our private label business from a price and product point of view, so i’m really expecting to see traction in the second half of the year,” he says. “i’m feeling quite confident that will happen. in six months i expect to be smiling from ear to ear – and perhaps [with] a look of relief.”
Denim Studio _ Selfridges, Oxford Street, London
Drapers / JuNE 15 2013 _ 18
JOHn RYAn is Drapers’ stores editor and has a background in fashion buying. He has covered the sector for more than a decade
wenty-six thousand square feet is a lot of space in any retail context and when it comes to selling jeans, this would normally confer flagship status. This is especially true when the area in question is enclosed within a department store. The newly opened Denim Studio in Selfridges is a case in point. Stocking 26 brands for women and with everything from a Primark denim area to a pair of jeans that can be yours for £11,000, the intention is for it to be all things to all people. As well as being a democratic concept, there are a number of things that mark it out: a vintage denim section allows shoppers to buy denim by weight, while in the fitting room area, aka the ‘Jeanius Bar’, shoppers can look at content relating to the offer on touchscreens. It isn’t easy to be a denim everyman but this comes pretty close.
This is an expensive shopfit but you’d expect nothing less of Selfridges. The concept is simple: lots of denim brands in a seductive environment with bolt-on services. These range from personal shopping, where you can get advice on which pair of jeans will suit you, to the aforementioned Jeanius Bar. Visitors may avail themselves of ‘The Denim Tailor’ – probably to shorten the improbably long leg length that seems to be the norm for jeans.
Stepping off the escalator on the third floor, it’s hard to miss the Denim Studio, thanks to the neon signs that are positioned to the side of the two archways that provide ingress to the department. Walking through, the first thing you see is a
regimented line of inverted lower bodies sporting denim. Although there is a lot happening on the perimeter, it is the mid-shop that grabs the attention, thanks to the many tables on which the various brands are displayed. The sense is of
plenty, in what is claimed to be the ‘world’s biggest denim department’, though views across the space are clear. For a mundane commodity, Selfridges generates real excitement – not least from the denim ostrich props.
THE BASICS Address third floor, selfridges, oxford street, W1a size 26,000 sq ft Number of brANds stocked 26 opeNed June 3, 2013
In most denim shops, buying jeans is a matter of finding a style you like and then seeing if the size you need is stocked. In this store, staffing levels are much higher than normal, which is because the emphasis is probably less on the Primark and Levi’s ranges and more on the premium jeans. These need to be sold and sold some more. This in turn is probably why a personal denim shopping service is offered. If it’s top-of-the-pile service that is sought, this is a good place to visit.
The thing about denim jeans is that there is always another brand to choose from just around the corner. On this reckoning, denim is the ultimate fad and brand names come and go, with few labels being readily regarded as hardy perennials. This means that a large space stocking
Room for improvement 01
there are entry-level jeans in the ranges on offer but a few more lower-cost labels might be a good idea – think Cheap monday, perhaps. 02
the glamorous male and female staff might be a good thing, but if they weren’t quite so glam, you might feel slightly less inadequate. 03
With a score of 43/50, the highest given thus far by our correspondent, it would be churlish to find further fault.
COmPETITIOn multiple brands in depth should do well. The Denim Studio is a space where brands will certainly wax and wane with demand. As such, provided the buying is up to scratch, it should prosper simply by being larger than its nearby rivals, as well as by offering more names and greater change.
Drapers / JuNE 15 2013 _ 19
There are 11,000 pairs of jeans in this department, with everything from 14oz denim to lamb leather jeans, which are things of rare beauty … as long as you’re not a lamb. With a brand menu that stretches from Primark, where you can self-scan your
purchase, to an £11,000 pair of black jeans with diamond studs from Paige, it runs the gamut of denim options. Between these two extremes, the biggest brand for Selfridges is J Brand. An ‘East End Thrift Store’ also sells denim by the kilogram.
VERDICT first among equals
A new department in Selfridges always comes with a media flurry but this one merits the noise. It was previously the kidswear department – an also-ran in this glamorous store. Now it is a space that makes the journey up to the third floor worthwhile. Not only does the shopper benefit from the scale of offer, but brand selection and service level put this one out on its own. You have to admire the bold statement made about denim equality, as represented by the proportion of the space that has been 43 50 given to Primark.
to see more pictures from this store, go to www.drapersonline.com/news/ shopwatch
PayPal Etail Awards 2013
Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 20
All the winners from this year’s celebration of etail excellence, which took place at Old Billingsgate in London this week
BEST REDESIGN/RELAUNCH Winner: Dune
DIGITAL MARKETING CAMPAIGN OF THE YEAR Winner: Very Highly commended: Chocolate Clothing
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BEST APP Winner: Mothercare
THE SHOPOW BEST USE OF SOCIAL MEDIA Winner:Appliances Online
PAYPAL BEST MOBILE-OPTIMISED SITE Winner: John Lewis Highly commended: Reiss
BEST CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE Winner: Morrisons Highly commended: Schuh
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THE CHASE PAYMENTECH BEST-PURE PLAY ETAILER – LARGE Winner: Appliances Online
SUCCESS DIGITAL BEST MULTICHANNEL RETAILER – SMALL Winner: Childrensalon Highly commended: Mish
CLIPPER LOGISTICS BEST MULTICHANNEL RETAILER – LARGE Winner: Argos Highly commended: Tesco
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PAYPAL OVERALL AWARD FOR EXCELLENCE Winner: Appliances Online
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October 17, 2013 The Waldorf Hilton, London WC2
Recognising innovation and talent within the independent retail sector There is also no better advertisement than a Drapers Winning logo for your shop window and website. This is surely a clear message to any potential customer that our business is one of the best. Keith Ewing, Managing Director, Number Eight Winner of Menswear Retailer of the Year
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Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 23
Pointing the way to the most important products, people, stories and shows in fashion right now
This weekâ€™s hero
AT LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN The British Fashion Council has made over London Collections: Men (LCM) this season, ramping up its designer showrooms to make the event more buyer friendly. Expanding across two official venues for spring 14, the Hospital Club and Victoria House will host 36 British menswear names, including Jean Machine and Dr Martens, as well as designer collections, with the opportunity to also write orders for collections. See Style Council (p27) for big-name buyersâ€™ takes on the change. LCM takes place on June 16 to 18
THE BUZZ / Fashion foreword /
Daylight snobbery over menswear has to stop
Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 24
_ Ian Wright
’ve come across a lot of reverse snobbery in menswear recently. While the pinnacle of the womenswear market is regarded as the catwalks of Milan, Paris, New York and London, those who show their menswear at the same level are regarded by some quarters with scepticism at the very least and at worst dismissed completely. Real brands and businesses exhibit their wares at trade shows, not on the “elitist” catwalk, apparently. “PR guff ”, “luvvies” and “irrelevant” are words chucked about with abandon, and no time is this in sharper focus than right now, on the eve of London Collections: Men. Despite maturing quicker than a caterpillar on Red Bull, LCM is by no means the finished trade article. But nor should we expect it to be after only three seasons. Think where it was two years ago – an afterthought tagged onto the end of London Fashion Week, a mere flicker in the fashion calendar. This season it’s grown to include new venues, bigger global brands and a renewed focus on the buying aspects of the event. Pitti Uomo, to which it is and forever will be compared due to the clash of dates, has had 40-odd years to perfect the art of the trade show, and wasn’t coming from a foundation of catwalk presentations as LCM has. In a way it’s a testament to the work that has been done with LCM that it’s mentioned in the same breath as Pitti, but to disregard what the likes of Agi & Sam, Burberry Prorsum and Oliver Spencer will show in the coming days as “frivolous” is to do a disservice to the work those brands have done. Being sniffy towards high-end, creative menswear doesn’t do anyone any favours – after all, if brands create clothes that the industry and in turn the public want to buy, isn’t that the whole idea?
Drapers fashion director / Ian.email@example.com
Don’t forget! Look out for...
ON THE RADAR — Rascals’ Danish men’s streetwear brand Rascals’ is launching its first mid-season collection in the UK for autumn 13. Loosely inspired by cycling and with a darkly tonal palette, the range incorporates sporty knits, sweats and T-shirts, as well as smarter printed shirts, jackets and trousers. Sales appointments are being made now. Wholesale prices range from €10 to €32 (£8.50 to £27). Contact: 020 3603 9253 www.rascals.dk
Diesel runs with Jogg Jeans
/ Trendwatch /
The spring 14 pre-collections have seen trouser styles cropping up, with slouchy, long-length styles dominating several collections. This fit is a welcome addition for changeable weather.
BERLIN BOUND? Check out next week’s preview of the upcoming Berlin trade shows
Diesel has announced a wholesale push on its Jogg Jeans line for spring 14, lowering its wholesale prices to appeal to a broader range of stockists. After seeing success with a trial launch for autumn 13, including a sell-out collection in Selfridges, the brand is rolling out a full wholesale package. The collection encompasses jersey trousers, designed to look like five-pocket denim jeans, as well as a co-ordinating jacket and women’s jumpsuit. Wholesale prices range from £60 to £83, and the order book is open now. Contact: 020 7520 7700
KIDS’ CORNER Spring 14 buying kicks off with kids’ show Bubble – read all about it in our next issue
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THE STYLE COUNCIL I DIRECTIONS
Do you see LCM as an event for buying or simply viewing?
Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 27
This week’s panel
Male bonding: Jonathan Saunders at the autumn 13 edition of LCM
GIULIO CINQUE Owner of designer indie Giulio in Cambridge
PAUL BAPTISTE Operations manager at lifestyle indie The Shop at Bluebird in Chelsea
DAMIEN PAUL Menswear buyer for designer indie mini-chain Matches
TIM STURMHEIT Buyer at premium menswear etailer Oki-ni
Giulio Cinque I’ll be viewing only. London Collections: Men may be more helpful to international buyers as I think it’s geared more towards them. I’m sure it’s aware UK business is tough so the effort is put into international, which is a good strategy as there are many more opportunities than in the UK, where there is little outside London.
Paul Baptiste We’ll use LCM to initiate our viewpoint in terms of trends and buying direction for spring 14, although it’s unlikely we’ll actually place orders there, as the environment is a little transient for us to give the dedication and attention we normally give to the collections in an appointment scenario.
Damien Paul LCM is a destination for buying – there are brilliant ideas on show but we’re also seeing an increasingly commercial mindset from the designers. The collections from the likes of Richard Nicoll and Nicholas Kirkwood last season were on a par with Paris and Milan for well-designed but wearable clothes.
Tim Sturmheit We’ve never used LCM for placing orders. It’s so early that we prefer to view, then amend our budgets if we see something we like. Many of the designers are keen to get orders in early so they can launch production, but I would only look to do this if it was a collection that we knew for certain we would buy.
WANT TO BE PART OF THE STYLE COUNCIL? Visit www.drapersonline.com/stylecouncil to tell us your thoughts on this week’s question
DIRECTIONS I LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN PREVIEW
Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 28
SPRING 14 PREVIEW Richard Nicoll
Returning with his third men’s collection, Nicoll promises more sleek and streamlined modern menswear. What were your inspirations for spring 14? I’ve been looking at minimal 1977 portraits by Pietro Mattioli of young patrons of Club Hey in Zurich. The collection is a celebration of DIY glamour, modern androgyny and the outsider’s ‘beautiful ugliness’, to establish a new standard of normal. What are the standout prints and fabrics? Linder Sterling collage prints, python jacquard and foil taffeta. Sunday June 16, 5.30pm, The Old Sorting Office
What do you get if you cross West Side Story with bonkers knitwear trio Sibling? All will be revealed! What were your inspirations for spring 14? The main theme for this collection is West Side Story, the all-singing, all-dancing version of Romeo and Juliet, with our modern-day Romeo prowling the streets in combinations of Sibling brights, patterns and embellishments. What are the key items? Our brand is well known for standout knits, so there will be more of the same as we’d hate to disappoint. And the standout colours? Red, mint green, lilac and denim blues, all framed in black. Monday June 17, 11am, Victoria House
Alan Taylor Dublin-born Taylor makes his LCM debut as part of MAN, the joint show by Fashion East and Topman. Look out for his very personal take on tailoring. What were your inspirations for spring 14? I looked at the theory of the fourth dimension. This came into my work through garments growing out of other garments, creating a surreal and almost mirrored silhouette. What are the standout colours? I’ve been working closely with Magee tweeds. Colours are a mix of pink and peach with greys and blacks. Sunday June 16, 3pm, The Old Sorting Office
London Collections: Men To view more LCM previews, go to www.drapersonline.com/fashion
Some of LCM’s big names and upcoming talents offer an exclusive first look at the collections they’ll be unveiling ahead of this week’s catwalks Compiled by GRAEME MORAN
Lou Dalton What’s it been like creating this collection? Intense. It feels like there’s a great deal riding on this collection, so as much as I’ve enjoyed putting it together, I do feel slightly overwhelmed by it all. Sunday June 16, 10am, Victoria House
Watch out for Raeburn’s take on tailoring and interesting fabrics. What were your inspirations for spring 14? It’s an exploration in aridity and layering. It started with my fascination with the stoic men of the Long Range Desert Group during the Second World War. What are the key items? This season sees the development in the tailoring element of my collection, giving this traditional
Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 29
Dalton will once again open this season’s LCM proceedings with her contemporary take on classic menswear. What were your inspirations for spring 14? Aviation, postpunk, isolation, light and conflict. What are the standout colours? Navy, black and ecru.
category modernity with the use of print and fabric. What are the standout colours? The Long Range Desert Group’s surprising use of pink Land Rovers during the war. What’s it been like creating this collection? This has been one of our most organised seasons; it’s allowed us to be a little more experimental. Tuesday June 18, 12pm, Victoria House
Oliver Spencer A complete wardrobe fit for a musical legend is what Spencer promises to deliver. What were your inspirations for spring 14? We took inspiration from one of our generation’s greatest music icons to design a complete, contemporary wardrobe for the modern, fashion-conscious man. What are the key items? Double-breasted jackets,
contrasted lapels and an interesting take on white striped shirts. What’s it been like creating this collection? The collection this season has evolved from luxury workwear to a range that is more influenced by art and colourful life, designed with an eclectic customer in mind. Monday June 17, 5pm, The Old Sorting Office
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LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN PREVIEW I DIRECTIONS
Rag & Bone
Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 31
Japanese fabrics and technical treatments will be the focus, say managing partners Marcus Wainwright and David Neville. What were your inspirations for spring 14? Traditional French workwear, Japanese fabrics and modern detailing with a nod to 1990s sportswear. What are the key items? Strippedback workwear and minimal sportswear-inspired pieces. What are the standout colours, prints and fabrics? Japanese fabrication. We’ve got a play on shibori [a tie-dye technique] and used an old Japanese military fabric. There’s a lot of technical treatments. Expect indigo, steel greys, muddy greens and graphic black and white. Monday June 17, 2pm, TBC
Richard James Look forward to an explosion of colour and lightweight summer suits. What were your inspirations for spring 14? The theme is sundown and the collection captures that cool, colour-drenched hour when the spent summer sun slips away from another long day and the dark of night steals in. What are the key items? A crisp and stunningly light single-button canary yellow linen suit perfectly captures the
vivid colour and warmth that rings through the collection. And then there are the markedly sharp, kaleidoscopic geometric trellis T-shirts. What are the standout fabrics? Sharp linens, fine-gauge cotton batiste, and some beautifully light Cool Wool suitings. What’s it been like creating this collection? This is an upbeat, colourful collection and I love working with colour. Monday June 17, 1pm, TBC
This season Rose combines the unlikely inspiration of musician Rick James and the world of interior design. Expect the unexpected. What were your inspirations for spring 14? I’m designing around the idea of furniture and interiors, in particular chairs and the idea of mashing styles together. Rick James has been a big influence this season. What are the key items? Development of my signature bomber jackets. And the standout colours? I’ve taken colour out this season. I think it’s an old-fashioned notion that people wear dark colours in autumn and pastel colours in spring. I’ve broken these rules. What’s it been like creating this collection? Challenging and exciting, as always! I think you have to design something you believe in and can stand by; people respond to authenticity in the end. Monday June 17, 4pm to 6pm, The Hospital Club
DIRECTIONS I London coLLections: men preview
Drapers / June 15 2013 _ 32
Andersen’s luxe sport-meets-street look promises to move in a fresh direction for spring 14. What were your inspirations for spring 14? The power of crystal stones and the fascination with lucky charms and rituals within the army and sports industry. What are the key items? Super bodyconscious technical tops and basket tanks. What stands out? The technique of my logo in mink, our transparent crystal stone camo and an outstanding lace from Sophie Hallette. Colours are green running water and bright whites. Sunday June 16, 1pm, Victoria House
John Smedley A riot of summery colour and boating inspirations will dominate the knitwear brand’s sportswear collection, says managing director Ian Maclean. What were your inspirations for spring 14? For our presentation, we’ve focused on our casual sportswear collection. Inspiration has come from a number of sources including the garments
worn by international rowing crews at the Henley Royal Regatta. What are the key items? My favourite piece in the collection is a fully fashioned piqué polo shirt. This style says everything about our core brand values. And the standout colours? California poppy orange and lemon drizzle yellow; pimento red; mid-aqua blue is a great men’s colour, combining
well with navy and white; and a black grape purple, which we’ve used in our sports outerwear. What’s it been like creating this collection? It’s been fun. Challenging the perception that John Smedley stands for anonymous elegance has taken some creative thinking and the development of many interesting ideas. Sunday June 16, 11am to 12.30pm, TBC
Green returns as one of three designers taking part in the MAN show for rising stars. Look out for his hand-painted and dyed garments and signature sculptures. What were your inspirations for spring 14? It is based around ideas of chaos and control. What are the key items? The knitwear I’ve collaborated on again with Helen Lawrence and the 3D sculptures, which I’ve created with David Curtis-Ring. What are the standout colours, prints and fabrics? I’ve developed a range of handpainted and hand-dyed prints with designer Helen Price – she’s an amazing colourist. It feels important to create a print without the use of digital techniques. Sunday June 16, 3pm, The Old Sorting Office
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ADVERTORIAL COTTON USA COMPETITION
A NATURAL TALENT After a deluge of entries from final year students, Amy Critchlow is the winner of COTTON USA and Drapers’ search for the next big fashion designer working with cotton
hen COTTON USA teamed up with Drapers to launch a competition searching for the next big fashion designer working in cotton, we were inundated with entries from final-year design students – all eager to create a collection from the versatile material. However, there can, of course, only be one winner. And that is Amy Critchlow, a final year BA (Hons) Fashion Design and Technology student at Manchester Metropolitan University. Critchlow wowed the judges with her collection of 30 interchangeable pieces which take full advantage of the benefits of cotton. She incorporates high-quality durable styles that
transcend seasonal trends and can be mixed and matched to last well beyond the next season. Speaking about Critchlow’s win, Stephanie Thiers-Ratcliffe, international marketing manager at COTTON USA, says: “We had so many great entries that choosing just one winner was a difficult decision; we’d like to thank those who entered and congratulate all the finalists. However, Amy’s designs stood out for members of the panel at both COTTON USA and Drapers. “Her concept is well considered and we were impressed with the way she thought about the fibres she’s incorporated to complement her designs. She’s highlighted the versatility and durability of cotton, creating stylish apparel with the wearer very much in mind.” Drapers fashion director Ian Wright agrees that Critchlow’s designs stood out. “Amy displayed an innate understanding of how cotton moves and can be manipulated. The way she reworked familiar shapes and styles to incorporate an interesting drawstring detail was on the whole done with a lightness of touch – a promising capsule collection with just the right amount of differentiation,” he says. Critchlow’s collection features relaxed shapes, an effortless style and includes pieces such as a handloom cotton wrap top and skirt as well as a stylish Cambridge cotton trench. Speaking about her win, she says: “I think what helped set the collection apart is that the pieces can be worn for more than one season because it incorporates really high-quality cotton which is durable, easy to look after and versatile, allowing the wearer to get the maximum potential out of them.” The final year student, who has just completed her final collection, for which the lookbook along with her portfolio was exhibited at Graduate Fashion Week, hopes winning the COTTON USA and Drapers competition will be the start of a promising career. Thiers-Ratcliffe says Critchlow is one designer working with cotton to watch. She says: “Her creativity has resulted in some beautiful designs and we believe she’s a very worthy winner with a big future.”
â€˜Amy has highlighted the versatility and durability of cotton, creating stylish apparelâ€™ Stephanie Thiers-Ratcliffe, COTTON USA
White magic: the relaxed shapes and an effortless style impressed the judges
DIRECTIONS I GFW 2013
Graduate Fashion Week Some of the winning collections from this yearâ€™s crop of student design talent at GFW
Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 36
Words by GRAEME MORAN & EMILY NORVAL Photography by CATWALKING.COM
Drapers / MOnTH 00 2013 _ 37
GEORGE GoLd aWard
Edinburgh College of Art The winner of the George Gold Award receives a prize of £20,000 to kick-start their fashion career, plus the opportunity to work with the George at Asda team on a capsule collection. It’s no surprise, then, that one aspect of winner Lauren Smith’s collection praised by the judges was how commercially ready it was. They said her personality shone through and it is easy to see how, with imaginative doodles and paperclip adornments used across stunning separates. The thoughtfulness of the design was obvious throughout the collection, which would certainly look at home on the high street. But it was Smith’s skill that stood out, with leather work, appliqué and printing techniques all utilised to great effect. Though tying in nicely as a fully realised collection, each look was surprising, balancing creativity with commerciality to take u home the top prize.
shauni douglas & olivia Creber Edinburgh College of Art
Shauni Douglas and Olivia Creber sent a collection of sharp tailoring down the GFW catwalk, with clothing by Douglas and accessories by Creber. A crisp white shirt in a super-long silhouette was printed with dusky greys and complemented by deep burgundy separates. The silk burgundy fabric also featured in a slick collarless shirt and matching shorts. Elsewhere, Prince of Wales check and tartan pieces added interesting fabrication. Creber’s unusual accessories included mouthpieces adorned with hair, and even the odd whip. A hint of modern dandy and a moody colour palette made this collection stand out as a sophisticated menswear winner.
Hannah Williams UCA Epsom Hannah Williams bagged both the Womenswear Award and the Fashion Innovation prize for her calm, modern and minimalistic clothes. Shimmering wet-look and dry matt latex sat side by side on simple dresses, skirts and tops, all pumped up to create a fresh, voluminous silhouette, with a chilly palette of white, lilac and cream. Technical prowess came in the form of zips and embellishments pressed into and buried beneath latex, with a standout knee-length dress featuring a charming sunken trompe l’oeil blazer and necklaces. Williams is one of this year’s names to watch.
Drapers / june 15 2013 _ 38
DIRECTIONS I gfw 2013
ADVERTORIAL NOTTINGHAM TRENT UNIVERSITY
NEW TALENT UNLEASHED
Nottingham Trent University let the talent do the talking on the catwalk at this year’s GFW
For full information about undergraduate and postgraduate study, see www.ntu.ac.uk/art NTU also offers tailor-made short courses to top up skills for individual business requirements – email email@example.com
Adnan Ebo Samantha Pearce
The GFW verdict “NTU’s class of 2013 conjured up a display of incredibly impressive collections that highlighted the established visions of their designers … they showed a confident use of colour and knit, in creative collections honed to perfection” Rhianne Sinclair-Phillips, blogger, @mybfswardrobe “The collections were very strong and really varied in terms of concept and design. It’s great to see that students are encouraged to express themselves as individuals, an approach that NTU is highly regarded for within the industry” Alice Wedge, designer and former NTU graduate, BA (Hons) Fashion Design, Vivienne Westwood “The students at NTU put on a corker of a show … when it came to the show-stopping finale, the audience went bonkers!” Tatler.com, June 2013 Trent talent: Work by Thea Sanders, NTU Fashion Knitwear Design, winner of the Stuart Peters Visionary Knitwear Award, Graduate Fashion Week 2013
PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVID BAIRD
ottingham Trent University (NTU) is a leading UK provider of fashion, art and design education; its creative heritage dates from 1843 (celebrations of the 170 years will be announced later this year). Graduate Fashion Week’s 2013 catwalk, by students of BA (Hons) Fashion Design and BA (Hons) Fashion Knitwear Design and Knitted Textiles, featured an incredible diversity of inspiration, with innovation in structure, colour, shape, fabric combination, manufacturing technique and finish. The show was fitting testament to the wide range of industry-aligned development and manufacturing facilities available to students. Graduates consistently quote outstanding technical support and a commercially-focused teaching ethos as key course strengths. Gilly Staples, Fashion Design course leader, says: “Students have the freedom to develop in whichever direction they want – for us it’s important that we play to our students’ strengths and interests, giving them the choice of how they want to take their collection.” With over 40 years’ expertise in fashion and knitwear design, NTU enjoys exceptional industry links. All students undertake live projects and competitions set by industry experts; NTU’s fashion marketing, promotion and business course areas also benefit from these outstanding global connections. In 2012, 90% of NTU’s fashion graduates were in employment or further education within six months of graduation. Recent destinations include Paul Smith, Miu Miu, Kenzo, Vivienne Westwood, All Saints, River Island, Topshop, MaxMara, Ralph Lauren, Elle, Grazia, Burberry and Abercrombie & Fitch to name a few.
TURKEY ALMODO AKBEN ALTINYILDIZ ANTIK DANTEL BAHARIYE M BEZSAN BOSSA BTA TEXTILE BTD TEXTILE EBRAR TEXTILE ESENTEKS FEMTEKS TEXTILE FORM DIS. TIC. GULIPEK HAS ORME JOYTEKS
KARYA TEXTILE KONAK FASHION FABRICS KOTONTEKS LA-TEKS LINOTEKS TEXTILE LINSET TEXTILE OZDOKU TEXTILE OZEL TEXTILE PASTEL by YILMAZIPEK PORTAKAL FABRICS SAVE TEKSTIL SOKTA TEKSTIL YARANGUMELI YUNSA YUREK TEXTILE ZUMRUT TEXTILE
17 -18 July 2013
ISTANBUL TEXTILE AND RAW MATERIALS EXPORTERS’ ASSOCIATION
GFW 2013 I DIRECTIONS
This year’s Textile Award went to Northampton University’s Kirandeep Bassan, with her brightly coloured womenswear collection. Her use of paint-stroke effects gave a sense of randomness to each look, while bold primary colours backed up this modern art effect. It was good to see a print design that felt truly personal and crafted. Fabric-wise, draped silhouettes in billowing silks could have left the collection feeling somewhat ‘art teacher does couture’, but sharper cuts were on show, with a rusty orange and pale blue parka-style jacket demonstrating a commercial eye and artistic flair.
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Nottingham Trent University Described by judge Adam Jones, former knitwear designer at Dior and Kenzo, as a combination of “Chloe meets Marni”, Thea Sanders’ highly technical collection was a worthy winner of GFW’s top knit prize. Deftly mixing and matching kitschy 1970s colours, swirling retro shapes and geometric patterns, her tapestry-style dresses, cropped cardigans and textured jumpers had a prim secretary vibe. Although appearing simple, each piece was highly technical and displayed numerous knitting skills, with her dimensional stitches and wonderful fluffy textures all perfectly executed. The collection pushed boundaries but had a strong commercial element and wearability.
Shih Chien University, Taiwan GFW’s International Show brings together 20 collections created by graduates from 16 universities. This year’s winning collection was designed by Taiwan’s Angus Chiang, whose zany, psychedelic spacemen were the big talking point of the week. Space suits and cropped bomber jackets took performance outerwear to the next level, clashing with out-ofthis-world kaleidoscopic floral pom-poms fit for day-glo astronauts and space-age ravers. Beneath Chiang’s eye-catchingly outlandish showpieces were some truly well designed and superbly executed pieces.
INTERNATIONAL SHOW AWARD
ZANDRA RHODES CATWALK TEXTILE AWARD
ALMODO AKBEN ALTINYILDIZ ANT K DANTEL BAHARIYE M BEZSAN BOSSA BTA TEXTILE BTD TEXTILE EBRAR TEXTILE ESENTEKS FEMTEKS TEXTILE FORM DIS. TIC. GULIPEK HAS ORME JOYTEKS KARYA TEXTILE KONAK FASHION FABRICS KOTONTEKS LA-TEKS LINOTEKS TEXTILE LINSET TEXTILE OZDOKU TEXTILE OZEL TEXTILE PASTEL by YILMAZIPEK PORTAKAL FABRICS SAVE TEKSTIL SOKTA TEKSTIL YARANGUMELI YUNSA YUREK TEXTILE ZUMRUT TEXTILE
Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 41
STUART PETERS VISIONARY KNITWEAR AWARD
DIRECTIONS I GFW INTERVIEW
Last year’s GFW George Gold Award winner on standing out from the crowd and designing for Asda
ou scooped two of the top prizes at Graduate Fashion Week 2012. What do you think helped set your collection apart from the competition? From the feedback I’ve heard, I think people found my presentation to be quite atmospheric. The inspiration was initially gothic architecture. But then I looked at religion and religious figures and the places that I visited were quite haunting. I think the music [which accompanied the show] reflected that mood and that set it apart from the competition.
➝ What has winning meant for you Gothic inspiration: Bath Spa graduate Jones’s winning collection
professionally? It was such an honour to win and even just to show my collection at GFW. To win both awards was surreal, really. In terms of my career, it’s been a brilliant platform. There is so much competition, it’s amazing to start out with that on your CV. After winning I was invited to show my collection at London Fashion Week last September and as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s graduate showcase, which was incredible exposure. As a graduate, to have the opportunity to show my collection at LFW was such a privilege. I think I was the only one of 10 graduates not to come from a London university, which shows the talent that’s out there. What was designing a collection for George at Asda – part of your prize – like as an experience? It was amazing. While I was at George I designed two ranges: one was the Gold Award range based on my collection, which was out for autumn 12; and the other was a whole new capsule range for spring 13, which was released in April. It was really exciting to see the whole process through from start to finish. How easy was it designing to a specific brand’s handwriting? This whole
Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 42
Words by JAMES KNOWLES
past year has been a massive learning curve in terms of adapting to that. It’s one thing working for yourself and finding your own route, but working for another company’s handwriting and aesthetic ... it’s a completely different experience. But I enjoy adapting. What advice would you give to this year’s winner? Take every opportunity that is offered to you and don’t get too bogged down by pressure. I think you get so much attention and exposure that there is a pressure to do something amazing straight out of university. Actually, the industry doesn’t work like that. The industry is hard work, especially for graduates. It’s rare that we walk out of university and go straight into Prada, for example. So just enjoy it. Looking back, this year has been an insight into the industry, from working at George to LFW and interning at various levels of the market. I’ve spent the last year learning and observing, and absorbing everything I can as a designer. You’ve since interned at companies such as Nicole Farhi and LK Bennett. What’s next for you? I’d love to make the transition into a design role and go to work permanently with a company.
ADVERTORIAL ISTITUTO MARANGONI
THE ESSENCE OF FASHION
Its Graduate Fashion Week showcase demonstrated the outstanding work of Istituto Marangoni graduates
stituto Marangoni London Fashion School was invited for the first time to showcase the talent of its exceptional graduates at Graduate Fashion Week (GFW) in London, the world’s leading event for fashion graduates. Following the growing success of Istituto Marangoni’s participation at the GFW International Show, the collections of 19 graduates from the London Fashion School were presented last Sunday, June 2, to an exclusive audience of editors, buyers and key industry opinion formers. This celebration of Istituto Marangoni’s future talent shared the Italian taste and fashion heritage acquired over the college’s 75 years. “At the London Fashion School we are proud to see how the work of our graduates represented at its best the essence of what Istituto Marangoni is – a combination of Italian fashion design heritage combined with the ‘made in London’ diverse creativity,” says Linda McIntyre, Istituto Marangoni, London Fashion School director. “We were very pleased when GFW invited us to participate with a Istituto Marangoni London solo show. It seemed the perfect way to celebrate the outstanding work of our graduates, following the great success of the participation of our Milan and Paris graduates at the International Show on previous editions” says Roberto Riccio, Istituto Marangoni Group managing director. Istituto Marangoni is a renowned international school founded in Milan in 1935. Throughout the past 78 years, thousands of students have learned the essence of fashion and design with an Italian touch. Its teaching staff is formed of professionals who are passionate about their work and are willing to share their expertise with their students, empowering young talent to become the future
professionals in fashion and design. Istituto Marangoni’s alumni include globally renowned names such as Domenico Dolce (Milan, Dolce & Gabbana), Franco Moschino (Milan) and Fyodor Golan (London). The London Fashion School, now entering its 10th anniversary, is in Shoreditch, London’s thriving creative hub, a melting pot of cultures and design that inspires students to give birth to the new trends that will influence the whole world tomorrow. At the London campus, all students have access to advice career services, a professional consulting service that provides them with the essential tools to become the future professionals of the global fashion industry, offering a great network of contacts and the guarantee of the right knowledge to understand the competitive and complex fashion industry market. Students who successfully complete the BA (Hons) degree programmes in London will be awarded with a BA (Hons) degree by MMU (Manchester Metropolitan University). There are also other exclusive opportunities at the London campus such as the BA (Hons) degree (sandwich), a four-year course which includes a 36-week placement. Furthermore, students successfully completing the master’s degree programmes taught in English will be awarded with a master’s degree by MMU. Istituto Marangoni today counts campuses in Milan, Paris, London and Shanghai – a global education network enhancing talent since 1935. Contact: firstname.lastname@example.org
Catwalk stars: designs by Istituto Marangoni’s Juliena Siqueira (left) and Nicolas Wirth (above)
CAREERS I CLIMBING THE LADDER
How I got here _ Helen North
Home shopping womenswear retailer Kaleidoscope’s head of marketing on her rise through the ranks
_ PB Drapers // JUNE JUNE15 15 2013 2013 _ Drapers 44
What does your diary look like today? Our autumn 13 press day is coming up, so this morning we’re preparing a selection of our fashion and homeware products to be presented to the media. The last few seasons have seen a real development in our product offer and we’re excited to be able to share this with the press and let them see first-hand how the brand is evolving. This afternoon we have our trading meeting to look over last week’s trading performance, analyse our results and the marketing activity. Following this I have a heads of departments meeting with creative, ecommerce and buying and merchandising to discuss next season’s plans. What task are you most looking forward to today? The trading meeting, as it always gives a true picture of the work my team and I have been doing. It gives us the opportunity to look at how the business is performing, see the product that is selling well and where our new customer recruitment is coming from. I’m always interested to see what activity and channel is working best
to drive new customers, retain our existing ones and what products they are buying, as this affects our overall marketing strategy. What task do you wish you could postpone? I’m working with our creative and design department to sign off the catalogue pages for our winter collection. Although it’s exciting to see all the products together on the page, I’m a perfectionist and would always love more time to work on it. How did you get to where you are today? I started at the bottom in a junior role and worked hard for several companies and progressed through the ranks. Before joining Kaleidoscope, I worked mainly in advertising and marketing agencies on a number of well-known high street fashion and mail-order brands. What has been your career highlight? In my previous role [at Principles Communications] I was appointed to the board after a year with the company. That was a real highlight as it made me realise just how far I’d come. Who is your mentor? I don’t have a specific mentor, but I’ve
CV 2013 Head of marketing, Kaleidoscope (Freemans Grattan Holdings) 2003 Account director and board director, Principles Communications 1994 Account director, PWN 1988 Account executive, Store House Group 1986 Distinction in Spatial Design, Leeds College of Art
been lucky to work with inspiring people from different sectors. If I were to pick someone from a retail perspective who inspires me, I’d say Mary Portas. I love her passion, drive and determination to bring about change on the high street. What’s the best piece of advice you’ve been given? A brand isn’t always what a business
or marketer thinks it is; a brand is what a consumer thinks it is. How do you see your career progressing? I’d hope to become more involved with the FGH group. At the moment I’m focused on Kaleidoscope, but as our parent company is a global business I’d like to think this could open up further opportunities. What advice would you give to someone wanting to follow in your footsteps? Gain as much exposure and experience as you can in the industry. I’ve not had a conventional route to get to where I am today but working across many fashion and mail-order brands has stood me in good stead. Salaries for this position range from £60,000 to £70,000 (estimate provided by CVUK)
If you want to be featured on the Drapers Jobs page, email email@example.com
The UK’s leading specialist retail recruitment consultancy.
Buying & Merchandising Technical, Production & Sales Design Digital & Marketing Retail Operations International successapppointments.co.uk
APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior Sunspel Final logotype MASTER
Sunspel is a fast growing luxury heritage fashion brand with a focus on quality and fabric which sells worldwide in over 100 high-end fashion stores including; Harrods, Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Lane Crawford and Mr. Porter. We are a privately owned brand manufacturing & outsourcing high quality men’s & ladies clothing, with our goods selling into wholesale, retail & on line for both UK & export markets. International Sales Manager and UK Head of Sales
We are presently looking for an International Sales Manager and UK Head of Sales. You will be responsible for opening new business and to manage existing accounts/relationships as well as developing the sales strategy for the brand, and manage all planning and forecasting. The role also involves managing agents and distributorships and working closely with product design and development to share market and customer feedback. This is a pivotal position for the business driving the growth of the critical wholesale channel.
We are presently looking to employee a Garment Technologist with experience of working with all product types covering jersey, knitwear, wovens, outerwear in both men’s and womenswear. Jersey experience is essential. Experience of developing and working with patterns would be preferable. Applicant requires a minimum of two years’ experience of working in the clothing industry. The successful candidate must have knowledge of the British luxury lifestyle industry and understand fabric, with good production skills. A great position is on offer here with a well-established and growing company.
Key Account Administrator
We are presently looking to employee a Sales Administrator is to liaise with all UK & overseas clients which are either retailers or independents, ensuring that wholesale orders are processed and tracked correctly and efficiently. Sales Administrators are the key contact between the Sales Managers and the customer, dealing with any queries or problems that may arise. Experience of managing Seasonal Forward orders, all stock orders, allocation, dispatch preparation and shipping would be beneficial.
We are presently looking to employee a Key Account Administrator with experience of managing the relationship with key customers, from working on collections, overseeing pricing and coding, to chasing in orders and to planning and working with Production to deliver within the deadlines agreed. You would be responsible for customer relationship management on the key accounts and to engage with the customers regularly in an efficient and effective manner.
For more information and to apply, please visit www.sunspel.com/info/careers
For more information and to apply, please visit www.sunspel.com/info/careers
To apply for any of our vacancies, please visit our careers site at www.sunspel.com/info/careers or email your CV and covering letter directly to firstname.lastname@example.org
Product Manager, Manchester
Competitive salary Excellent benefits package
The UK’s leading outdoor clothing and footwear specialists are currently looking for a Product Manager to join our team to create commercial, innovative and cohesive lifestyle product ranges in line with our brand strategy. To succeed you will have a deep understanding of lifestyle or sports/outdoor clothing and product markets across Europe, you will be an excellent communicator with good presentation skills, the ability to listen to and analyse different views, and be able to guide and present facts persuasively. You will be able to build great relationships across different teams, negotiating and communicating ideas whilst recognising commercial constraints and you must be able to motivate people to achieve a range of business targets. Please email your CV and cover letter to HRinbox@regatta.com
Seeking Luxury Leather Repair Specialist A fantastic opportunity has arisen for an experienced Leather Repair Specialist to join our new Repair Department. You will have a proven track record of working with luxury leather accessories. A minimum of 3 years previous experience working within this niche sector is required, as you will be repairing high value leather goods made from calf or lamb skin. You will also have strong communication and inter-personal skills and you will be highly organised. This position supports the UK Fashion Boutiques and will primarily be responsible for the repairs of luxury leather goods. The successful applicant will be based in Bourjois House, South Croydon. Please send your CV to: email@example.com
To advertise in this section please CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com
JUNE 15 2013
For more information and to apply, please visit www.sunspel.com/info/careers
For more information and to apply, please visit www.sunspel.com/info/careers
Sunspel logotype Phase 3
Specialists in digital, marketing and creative recruitment.
Find your perfect digital job eCRM MANAGER
ONLINE DESIGN AND VM MANAGER
We have a great opportunity to join a fast moving fashion business as e CRM Manager. You’ll analyse and provide performance Insights across their E Commerce & Marketing activities covering campaign effectiveness & performance. The ideal candidate should have at least 3 years’ online acquisition & retention marketing experience from a multichannel retail business. The right individual should also have line management experience and knowledge of HTML and understanding of SQL.
Excellent opportunity for an outstanding creative with a strong awareness of the forever growing online marketplace. Responsible for the visual and editorial direction of this market leading brand, overseeing web design, content and visual merchandising strategies. You will report directly into the Head of E Commerce and be accountable for giving direction to a talented in-house digital team, sharing knowledge of competitors and visual, web design and content improvements within the fashion industry.
Contact Deepak Saluja: firstname.lastname@example.org
Contact Toni Lamb: email@example.com
ONLINE ACQUISITIONS EXECUTIVE
PPC MANAGER x 2
This is an exciting opportunity to shape this leading fashion brand’s search acquisition strategy for the UK, US and international markets. You will be responsible for developing and optimizing PPC and SEO across web, mobile and tablet with a good understand of affiliates and social media campaigns. You will be passionate about digital and highly analytical with a commercial eye and at least 3 years’ experience within a successful digitally focused business.
Well known fashion group based in Liverpool looking for 2 new PPC Manager’s to join growing team. You will be fully responsible for the performances of the campaign which will involve; managing spend, performance to budget and campaign optimisation utilizing PPC bid management technology across all devices. You will have a minimum of 5 years’ paid search experience either client-side or within an agency environment. You should also be able to demonstrate managerial capabilities.
Contact Kathryn Yardley: firstname.lastname@example.org
Contact Charlotte Yates: email@example.com
Speciality fashion brand c£40,000 / London
Leading fashion brand £Competitive / Central London
Leading fashion brand £Competitive / Central London
Fashion group £34,000 + package / Liverpool
For the best digital roles in the industry visit our new website
_ 47 JUNE 15 2013
As the UK’s leading footwear brand on an exciting global journey, we’re on the lookout for talented designers to create best-selling shoes that’ll fly off our shelves. There’s no other footwear brand in the UK with such incredible facilities and design capabilities all under one roof. See for yourself at www.pinterest.com/designatclarks
Customer Insight Manager
Branded Travel Retailer £Competitive + benefits including car allowance London + East Midlands Fantastic opportunity in this fast growing, innovative travel retailer. You will influence and direct a global, customer insight function. You are commercially astute and have the charisma to communicate and lead the delivery of meaningful customer intelligence. Experience in a similar role and relevant qualification is a must.
Ecommerce Executive Premium Fashion Brand £30,000 + package Gloucestershire
Working for this stylish clothing brand you will be responsible for all the content management of the site, ensuring that SEO, PPC and Social Media are optimised. You will be highly motivated with the drive to go that extra mile to achieve operational excellence. Experience in a similar role is essential.
London 020 7436 0220
Midlands 0115 933 4778
My Client is a well-established corporatewear managing agent. They are specialists in corporatewear design and distribution and deliver exceptional garment supply chain management solutions to some of the UK’s most iconic, brand-driven businesses. They are now seeking an experienced Account Manager from either from the corporatewear sector, or with a retail clothing background. Linguistic ability would be considered advantageous but is not essential. More important is a robust outlook, confidence and commercial acumen. The Account Manager role will require that specified client requirements are met in full and will include the management of pricing, forecasting, the provision of KPI reporting and adherence to SLAs. Skills in developing enduring positive client relationships are essential. The Account Manager will also be expected to increase turnover through organic and cross-selling sales growth opportunities. This role will be based in the West Midlands and may involve broad UK and overseas travel as required. This is a superb opportunity to join a growing dynamic company who will be offering an attractive salary within the range £35,000 - £50,000 plus a fully expensed car and health benefits. Please apply with your CV by email to John Soulsby, Email JohnSoulsby@SCA-Search.com, Telephone 01938 811931
JUNE 15 2013
For further information about this role and for a confidential career discussion, please call Dinah Quainoo on d 020 7462 9986 or email e firstname.lastname@example.org
Iconic brands. Exclusive designs. Prestigious careers. eCommerce, Buying, Merchandising, Design Central London House of Fraser is the home of prestigious names, iconic brands and a VIP experience for every customer. Our style is individual, with a philosophy built around creating, design and delivering iconic, exclusive brands like Biba and Linea. It’s a formula that has brought us great acclaim and huge success. Following a year of record growth, we’re offering outstanding opportunities for talented people. People who share our vision for a premium experience, offering the most exciting, innovative thinking in on and offline retail. To find out more and to apply, visit www.houseofcareers.co.uk
JUNE 15 2013
APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior JACKET/TAILORING DESIGNER NORTH WEST – Dependent upon experience This is an excellent opportunity to work with some of the biggest names on the UK High Street including the likes of M&S. You will be working within a busy design room alongside the other members of the design team, creating on-trend & cost-effective products as well as liaising with the technical teams, in order to drive development of fabrics, silhouettes in line with agreed pricing strategy & customer brief. You must have previous experience in ladies jacket design &/or tailoring for this position, ideally coming from a supplier background as well as excellent fabric & garment construction knowledge.
JUNE 15 2013
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641310’
MARKETING MANAGER – MATERNITY COVER – BEAUTY LONDON – Salary of £35,000 to £50,000 An exciting opportunity has arisen to join a young and revolutionary skincare company as their Marketing Manager on a maternity cover in London. You will manage the execution of the marketing strategy in order to launch and elevate this new consumer skincare brand successfully to market. Overseeing all marketing, advertising and promotional activities, you will form a vital role in the Sales & Marketing team, forging relationships across the industry and successfully launching their UK flagship store GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641215’
PRINT DESIGNER GIRLS’ TOPS BRUSSELS, BELGIUM – An attractive salary which is negotiable - DOE, +benefits package
A successful High Street Fashion Retail Chain is seeking a talented Print Designer to focus on printed tops for their girlswear collection and experience an international lifestyle in Belgium.You will have at least 3 years’ experience designing girlswear graphics and all-over prints, researching relevant fashion trends and constantly updating the latest directions for girls’ graphics and all-over prints. A creative and confident fashion graduate you will be proficient in Illustrator and Photoshop, with excellent hand-drawing and painting skills; passionate about girls’ wear fashion prints and graphics and possessing excellent knowledge of the girls’ wear market on an international scale.For this and other similar childrenswear roles based in Belgium, please check our website.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641339’ SENIOR DRESS DESIGNER MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA – Competitive Salary and Sponsorship
Forever New is a womens fashion brand which celebrates the feminine beauty of women and is inspired by global trends in fashion, art, music and theatre. With over 260 stores across eleven countries including Australia, China, India, Philippines, Indonesia, Singapore, South Africa, Turkey and New Zealand, we are rapidly expanding and are fast becoming the first choice fashion destination where our customers can get the latest ‘up to the minute’ international looks. Forever New is currently seeking an established senior designer to join our Dress Category. You will be responsible for trend inspired design direction, development of mood boards and colour palettes in line with the Forever New hand writing, by designing a balanced range in collaboration with the Buying Team.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640420’
BLOUSE DESIGNER MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA – Competitive Salary and Sponsorship
Forever New is a womens fashion brand which celebrates the feminine beauty of women and is inspired by global trends in fashion, art, music and theatre.With over 260 stores across eleven countries including Australia, China, India, Philippines, Indonesia, Singapore, South Africa, Turkey and New Zealand, we are rapidly expanding and are fast becoming the first choice fashion destination where our customers can get the latest ‘up to the minute’ international looks.Forever New is currently seeking an established Blouse designer to join our Woven Tops Category. You will be responsible for trend inspired design direction, development of mood boards and colour palettes in line with the Forever New hand writing, by designing a balanced range in collaboration with the Buying Team.
EMBELLISHMENT AND EMBROIDERY GRAPHIC DESIGNER MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA – Competitive Salary and Sponsorship
Forever New is a womens fashion brand which celebrates the feminine beauty of women and is inspired by global trends in fashion, art, music and theatre.With over 260 stores across eleven countries including Australia, China, India, Philippines, Indonesia, Singapore, South Africa, Turkey and New Zealand, we are rapidly expanding and are fast becoming the first choice fashion destination where our customers can get the latest ‘up to the minute’ international looks.Forever New is currently seeking an established Graphic Designer to join our Embellishment and Embroidery design team. The graphic designer is primarily responsible for creating print designs, embellishments, embroideries and any other graphic work for the Forever New brand. They must be commercially aware of current and future trends at all times.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640421’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640424’
LICENSING ADMINISTRATOR MANCHESTER – Competitive Salary
DUCK AND COVER SALES EXECUTIVE NORTH – BASED IN MANCHESTER – Competitive Duck and Cover are seeking a Sales Executive with wholesale distribution experience, to develop the business in the North of England. The ideal candidate will have a good knowledge of the branded fashion market and be well connected with retailers in the territory. A highly motivated, self-starter, who is able to work well under pressure and is committed to delivering the highest standards of customer service. Good interpersonal skills and the ability to work as a team member are essential.
With a reputation for excellence in the children’s character nightwear market, Cooneen is a leading supplier to the UK high street retail market, and to mainland Europe customers. Our goal is to take the characters kids know and love, and create nightwear products that are safe, comfortable, and most of all fun to wear. As a Licensing Administrator you will be responsible for supporting the Licensing Coordinator in the procurement and management of licensees.The successful candidate will be required to maintain ongoing relationships with licensors, ensuring that our licensed character nightwear complies with licensing guidelines. The successful candidate will be responsible for managing the license contract approval process and for updating staff as to any changes.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2639051’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2639297’
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GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640565’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2639646’
EXPERIENCED LADIES FOOTWEAR TECHNOLOGIST SWEDEN – Competitive H&M in Stockholm is looking for experienced Footwear technologists who want to broaden their horizons and grow with an exciting and successful company. Fashion and quality for the best price, this is what H&M stands for. If you are interested in growing with one of the world’s largest fashion companies this is the opportunity for you. We work in a fast pace environment with new challenges and exciting projects all the time. Working as a Footwear technologist at H&M means you will be part of developing H&M Shoe range. You will work closely with a team of buyers and designers, in ladies division, to create new collections.
ACCOUNT MANAGER CENTRAL LONDON / WEST END (W1) – From £40,000 to £50,000 per annum + benefits We are high quality leather garments and accessories supplier for high street retailers. We are looking for an experienced Account Manager to join our head office in West London. You will be the main point of contact between the factory and customers to conduct sales activities and to provide excellent customer service. The candidates should be self-motivated, resourceful and have strong communication and marketing skills to achieve the sales targets. Experience on the customer side and a working knowledge of production process are a must, fitting knowledge is an advantage.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640004’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641432’
SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER LONDON – Competitive Salary + Excellent Bens Reputable premium retailer has a job opening for a talented Senior Graphic Designer. You will have experience on brand identities and communications campaigns online and offline and be able to manage and work to multiple design briefs. You will have a keen eye for graphic design and pay strong attention to detail and understand the importance of brand awareness and being customer focused. The ideal candidate will possess a strong portfolio and have luxury retail experience.
ASSISTANT GARMENT TECHNOLOGIST NORTH WEST LONDON – Competitive + excellent benefits
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641408’
We’re looking for a talented Assistant Garment Technologist to join our Mini Boyswear team, could it be you? Our garment technology teams are fanatical about our product, ensuring the highest level of detail, fit and quality. In this role your responsibilities include assisting the Senior Garment Tech, preparing and attending fit sessions, updating the critical path,reading and approving test reports. This is an opportunity to learn and progress within the wovens team and gain a sound knowledge of catalogue and mail order business processes. The pace is fast and vibrant. As well as the garment technology team you will work closely with the design and buying teams. We’d love to hear from someone with supplier/retail background with at least 2 years of relevant experience.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640680’
ASSISTANT BRAND COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER NORTH WEST LONDON – Competitive with excellent benefits
Although Boden is a global business with over a million customers, we’ve only scratched the surface when it comes to brand engagement. We’re looking for someone with a head office retail/fashion background to work with our Marketing Communications Manager to develop and deliver our brand communication plans each season.This hand-on role is responsible for the day to day management of brand communications including partnership promotions, events, competitions and customer campaigns. The successful candidate will have plenty of experience in these areas and will also have worked with closely with media agencies and media owners. You’ll also be a dab hand at writing clear briefs, both for creative and media requirements.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640770’
SENIOR MERCHANDISE ADMIN ASSISTANT KENSINGTON – Competitive An integral part of the Buying and Merchandising department, the Senior Merchandise Assistant role provides a crucial link between head office and the retail stores.The Senior Merchandise Assistant anticipates customer needs to plan the most effective product placement through managing stock replenishment, aiming to ensure the best possible use is made of the season’s stock. Responsible for maximising sales and profits by analysing seasonal trends, branch and stock performance ensuring that the right quantities of stock are in the right location, at the right time. Main duties include entering initial purchase orders and any in season re-orders, invoice posting and stock allocation, monitoring the warehouse stock, analysing assigned area on measured performance and profitability. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2639766’
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Juicy Couture embraces the bright, glamorous and fun of fashion by discovering the couture in the everyday, and delivering an element of surprise in all its designs. Key responsibilities will include : Manage London Showroom OTB by category – Work closely with Finance and Sales team to build up a buy plan based on sale in and sale out per category per season. Buy plan should include number of skus, options and size breakdown per category. Review inventory performance across wholesale to make recommendations on promotions, inventory and go forward product strategies. Collate customer orders (top level) from the book/ship reports and feed through into fiscal shipments model whilst actualizing prior month from BI as well as others.
JUNE 15 2013
Jigsaw is a British company that has been involved in the design, manufacturing and retailing of clothes and accessories for over thirty-five years. The first store opened in Hampstead in 1972 and the company has steadily expanded to currently operate over 40 stores in the UK. We are always interested in passionate, motivated and entrepreneurial people to join our growing and exciting close-knit business. As Area Manager you will assume overall responsibility for the success of your stores by directing all operational aspects of each store. You will manage multiple Jigsaw retail sites and Concessions through the development and performance management of Store and Concessions Managers. The role will involve travel covering around 23 Jigsaw stores and concessions sites. This is a broad reaching role that will require high levels of autonomy, energy and commercial acumen. You must have a strong commitment to customer service, credible approach with excellent communication skills and the willingness to role your sleaves up.
MERCHANDISE PLANNER WEST END LONDON – Dependent on experience
AREA MANAGER – LONDON OR SOUTH WEST BASED LONDON OR SOUTH WEST – Competitive Salary
SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR
In Store Products and Services EPOS
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JUNE 15 2013
t: 0844 544 1108 e: email@example.com www.trcepos.co.uk E-COMMERCE
AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | TheRetailStack.indd 1 03/06/2013 12:27 AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT | MULTI CHANNELS | INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG BRANDS | PAYMENT GATEWAYS | CAMPUS ADVERTISING | MEDIA BUYING | BEHAVIOURAL DISPLAY MARKETING | DIGITAL PR | ADVANCED ANALYTICS | COLLABORATIONS | TRANSLATION | AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT Call 0845 130 3535 | MULTI CHANNEL | INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG BRANDS | PAYMENT GATEWAYS | CAMPUS ADVERTISING | MEDIA or visit: www.toptotoe.com BUYING | BEHAVIOURAL DISPLAY MARKETING | DIGITAL PR | ADVANCED ANALYTICS | COLLABORATIONS | TRANSLATION | AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | GARMENT STANDS METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | KENNETT & LINDSELL LTD EST 1913 FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT | MULTI CHANNELS | Consultants and specialists in the design and manufacture INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG
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JUNE 15 2013
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JUNE 15 2013
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ORDER No. DATE
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THE GRADING BUREAU
Registered Office: Sentinel House Sentinel Square Brent Street London NW4 2EP Reg No. 2211489 VAT No. GB 494731613 Directors CI Marx GI Marx
WE BUY...WE SELL... • Surplus stock • Late deliveries • Cancelled orders • Clearance lines
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BUYERS GUIDE TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com
JUNE 15 2013
DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR
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PEOPLE I THIS FASHION LIFE
‘The symbology of the skull is important as it’s a reminder of our own death’ ➝ Which stores bought into your autumn
13 collection? We’re working with Dover Street Market in London and Tokyo, IT in Hong Kong, H Lorenzo in Los Angeles, Atelier in New York and Rail in Brescia, Italy. We haven’t made anyone buy the full collection as such, because everyone’s market is different. We’ve had a great relationship with Dover Street Market in the UK and we’re maintaining that exclusivity for now as there’s been a wait for this collection for six years and we want to uphold that demand. What are the merits of static presentations versus catwalk presentations for you? If you think of a catwalk presentation, the psychology of how the work is perceived by the audience is that they’re static and the work they’re seeing is active. I want to subvert that and allow the audience to be active and much more in control of how they’re seeing and interacting with the work. Your fascination with the human anatomy is well known – where does it come from? I see clothing as a kind of problem solving – it’s how to create a 3D structure from 2D fabric. So I start with the body itself and see how to manipulate the fabrics and treatments to work ergonomically with it. I was always interested in the body before clothing. I grew up with my mum learning to be a doctor, so I was surrounded with biology books. What else inspires you? Human anatomy and ergonomics has an effect on the shape and design of my clothing. I’m interested in invention and construction. Your skull bag has become iconic – what inspired it and why do you think it appeals so much? There’s a fascination when we see things reminiscent of ourselves. The symbology of the skull is important as it’s a reminder of our own death. The Latin notion of memento mori fascinates me. I used it as a launch piece as it was a challenge to start with the trickiest piece I’ve ever designed. Also, people have a preconceived idea of skulls in fashion. We’ve seen them so many times, they’re almost cheesy. If you can build integrity from something as culturally and historically charged as a skull, or do something new with something we’re almost ‘over’ at this point, you’ve succeeded.
Drapers / JUNE 15 2013 _ 56
The menswear designer tells EMILY NORVAL about his fascination with human anatomy and his infamous skull bag
You generated a lot of buzz at London Collections: Men (LCM) earlier this year – how was it? For me it was a long time coming with a full ready-to-wear collection, so it was really exciting. I feel I managed to figure out a new format of how to present the collection. With LCM we were able to make bespoke [display] frames for each theme, which looked much more refined. We found the right space with the right tone and designed the lighting to look like it was a black-and-white world. It was received really well.
To read Aitor Throup’s interview in full, visit www.drapersonline.com/fashion/ people
A D D I CT E D TO S H O E S
H i g hli ne U ni te d Sh ow ro o m L o n d o n , S u ite 5, Fu s io n H o u s e , 5 Ro c he ste r M ews , L o nd o n , N W1 9J B , C o n tac t : in fo @ h ig h l in e u n ite d . e u
Digital issue: Drapers June 15 2013