Page 49

DAN'S PAPERS, September 25, 2009 Page 48 www.danshamptons.com

Anything But Chardonnay?

Over The Barrel... with Lenn Thompson Many wine drinkers think they hate chardonnay. There’s an entire club for these chardonnay haters: ABC, or Anything But Chardonnay. It’s not chardonnay that they hate, though – it’s the aggressive use of new oak during chardonnay production, both for fermentation and for aging. I say blame it on the winemakers for forcing you to suck on butter-soaked two-by-fours. Who can blame these ABCers? Heavy, overmanipulated chardonnay is too often boring, even redundant. Throw in the flabby, low-acid West Coast renditions and they are virtually useless at the dinner tabl – no matter what some sales-minded winemakers and wine marketers try to tell you. On Long Island, there are some very well-done barrel-fermented and aged wines. Don’t get me wrong. Local winemakers are talented in many styles. But these wines aren’t distinctive. There is very little – if anything – that makes them truly “Long Island.� You hear comparisons to Burgundy,



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even Chablis. Steel-fermented chardonnay that doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t see a splinter of oak is a great opportunity for local wineries to define a local style â&#x20AC;&#x201C; by making affordable,

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Motorcoach Service between

Fall 2009 Schedule

The North Fork & New York City

Effective Thurs., September 24 through Wed., January 6, 2010

p

G W

To Manhattan Westbound+

Q

READ DOWN

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 6:00 6:10 6:15 6:20 6:30 6:35 6:40 6:45 6:50 6:55

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 7:00 7:05 7:07 7:15 7:25 7:30 7:35 7:45 7:50 7:55 8:00 8:05 8:10

9:30 9:35 9:40 9:42 9:50 10:00 10:05 10:10 10:20 10:25 10:30 10:35 10:40 10:45

11:30 11:35 11:40 11:42 11:50 12:00 12:05 12:10 12:20 12:25 12:30 12:35 12:40 12:45

DEPARTING

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 4:45 4:50 4:55 5:00 5:10 5:15 5:20 5:25 5:30 5:35

Orient Point Orient Village East Marion Peconic Landing Greenport Southold Peconic Cutchogue Mattituck Laurel Jamesport Aquebogue Riverhead Tanger Outlet

Airport Connection 7:05 8:50Q 9:50 12:20 2:20 5:20 6:50 8:20 9:20 10:35 12:20 7:20 9:00 10:00 12:30 2:30 5:30 7:00 8:30 9:30 10:45 12:30 Manhattan 

+

G

2:30 2:35 2:40 2:42 2:50 3:00 3:05 3:10 3:20 3:25 3:30 3:35 3:40 3:45

On select trips, North Fork passengers may be required to transfer in Manorville.

The â&#x20AC;&#x153;Greenporterâ&#x20AC;? Non-stop service to and from Southold and Greenport, available Eastbound on Friday; Westbound on Sunday through October.

4:00 4:05 4:10 4:12 4:20 4:30 4:35 4:40 4:50 4:55 5:00 5:05 5:10 5:15

W Sun Only Sept./ Oct.

ARRIV.

AM LIGHT PM BOLD

Mon Mon Only thru Fri 7 Days 7 Days 7 Days 7 Days 7 Days 7 Days

W

Avail. Sun Sept.-Dec. Sun Only Avail. Sat thru Nov. Sept./ Avail. Mon. Oct. Sept./Oct.

5:30 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 7:45 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 5:35 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 7:50 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 5:40 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 7:55 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 5:42 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 7:57 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 5:50 6:50 8:05 9:50 6:00 7:00 8:15 10:00 6:05 8:20 10:05 6:10 8:25 10:10 6:20 8:35 10:20 6:25 8:40 10:25 6:30 8:45 10:30 6:35 8:50 10:35 6:40 8:55 10:40 6:45 9:00 10:45

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Qâ&#x20AC;?: Non-stop service to Midtown Manhattan Q Theon Monday (airport connection is not available).

â&#x20AC;Ą

This trip arrives approximately 20 minutes earlier on Sat. and Sun.

To The North Fork Eastbound+G READ DOWN AM LIGHT PM BOLD

DEPARTING

g

ARRIVING

p

Fri Only â&#x20AC;Ą Sept./ Sat Only 7 Days 7 Days 7 Days 7 Days Oct.

8:00 Airport Connection 8:20

9:20 9:25 9:30 10:00 10:20

11:20 11:25 11:30 12:00 12:20

1:20 1:25 1:30 2:00 2:25

3:20 3:25 3:30 4:00 4:25

4:20 4:25 4:30 5:00 5:25

5:20 5:25 5:30 6:00 6:25

6:20 6:25 6:30 7:00 7:25

7:50 7:55 8:00 8:30 8:50

9:40 9:45 9:50 9:55 10:00 10:05 10:15 10:20 10:25 10:35 10:45 10:50 10:55

11:40 11:45 11:50 11:55 12:00 12:05 12:15 12:20 12:25 12:35 12:45 12:50 12:55

1:40 1:45 1:50 1:55 2:00 2:05 2:15 2:20 2:25 2:35 2:45 2:50 2:55

3:40 3:45 3:50 3:55 4:00 4:05 4:15 4:20 4:25 4:35 4:45 4:50 4:55

6:15â&#x20AC;Ą 6:20â&#x20AC;Ą 6:25â&#x20AC;Ą 6:30â&#x20AC;Ą 6:35â&#x20AC;Ą 6:40â&#x20AC;Ą 6:50â&#x20AC;Ą 6:55â&#x20AC;Ą 7:00â&#x20AC;Ą 8:00 7:10â&#x20AC;Ą 8:10 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

7:45 7:50 7:55 8:00 8:05 8:10 8:20 8:25 8:30 8:40 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

8:40 8:45 8:50 8:55 9:00 9:05 9:15 9:20 9:25 9:35 9:45 9:50 9:55

10:10 10:15 10:20 10:25 10:30 10:35 10:45 10:50 10:55 11:05 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

86th St. bet. 3rd & Lex.

7:20

Wed thru Fri 7 Days 7 Days

69th & Lex (bet. 69th & 68th) 7:25 59th & Lex (bet. 60th & 59th) 7:30 44th St. & 3rd Ave. (corner)

Tanger Outlet Riverhead Aquebogue Jamesport Laurel Mattituck Cutchogue Peconic Southold Greenport East Marion Orient Village Orient Point

everyday whites that thrive when paired with Long Islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seafood bounty. These bright, fresh chardonnays, ones with citrus, pear and apple flavors rather than toast, vanilla and oak, have a crisp, clean, often minerally mouthfeel and finish that is attractive even to card-carrying members of ABC. Most local wineries are already making these wines â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but only as a part of their chardonnay programs. Yes, I know that customers still like and buy woody chardonnay, but those numbers are dwindling and will continue to decline. Plus, without the costs involved in expensive oak barrels and the time spent barrel-aging, wineries can save money and get wines to market faster. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve tasted several newly released steel chardonnays over the past few weeks, with three standing out. First is Lieb Family Cellars 2007 Bridge Lane Chardonnay ($15), quite possibly the best vintage of this wine ever. Bright and fresh, it offers aromas of peach, Granny Smith apple and pineapple. The medium-light body features palate-cleansing acidity, more apple, pear and stone fruit flavors with a subtle, minerally-saline edge that lingers longer than youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d expect at this price point. Channing Daughters 2008 Scuttlehole Chardonnay ($16) is a long-time favorite of mine, and the new vintage doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t disappoint. More minerally and less tropical, this wine is characterized by juicy green apple and lemon-citrus with hints of rainsoaked gravel. Of winemaker Chris Tracyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chardonnay-based wines, this is probably my favorite. And itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s definitely the best value. Sherwood House Vineyards 2008 Oregon Road Chardonnay ($15) is a new, second-label wine from a producer best known for rich, Burgundian-style chardonnay. It won â&#x20AC;&#x153;Best Chardonnayâ&#x20AC;? in the 2009 New York Food & Wine Classic this summer and is a beautiful example of steel-fermented chardonnay. The nose is citrusy, but richer â&#x20AC;&#x201C; more tangerineMeyer lemon than straight lemon â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with attractive floral and apple beneath. On the palate, extended lees contact brings a roundness and slightly spicy edge to loads of green apple and tangerine flavors. The acidity is softer here, but still very well balanced. These are just three examples of the deliciousness that is local steel chardonnay. Other good ones to check out include Paumanok Vineyards Festival Chardonnay, Peconic Bay Winery Steel Fermented Chardonnay, Raphael Grand Cru Chardonnay, Shinn Estate Vineyards Chardonnay and Macari Vineyards Estate Chardonnay.

Danâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Papers Best of the Best 2009

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Dan's Papers Sept. 25, 2009  

Dan's Papers, the 51-year-old bible of the Hamptons, is owned by Manhattan Media, a multi-media publishing company based in New York City,...

Dan's Papers Sept. 25, 2009  

Dan's Papers, the 51-year-old bible of the Hamptons, is owned by Manhattan Media, a multi-media publishing company based in New York City,...

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