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DAN'S PAPERS, August 27, 2010 Page 85 www.danshamptons.com

Restaurant Review: Oso in Southampton By Susan Galardi If you’re lucky enough to be staying in the Hamptons at all this summer, and lucky enough to be staying at the very convenient Southampton Inn, life isn’t so bad. But if you’re hungry and want room service there, that’s when you’re really in luck. The food at the Southampton Inn comes from their in-house restaurant, Oso, headed up by Executive Chef Bryan Nadler. This is not hotel food by any stretch. Nadler offers nicely thought-out, interesting and very fresh/local dishes (he had a salad called 2 o’clock arugula – because that’s when he PICKED it). Oso serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, in the rooms, by the pool, in the courtyard. And in the restaurant. You don’t have to be a guest at the Inn to try Nadler’s specialties. Just book a table at Oso (in the dining room or in the outside spaces mentioned above). The restaurant features modern American fare with a twist, like a potpie – of lobster rather than chicken; fondue – with roasted filet mignon. At dinner you can order a la carte, or choose the $32 per person Prix Fixe, that includes appetizer, entrée and dessert. A la carte, soups are $10 and $12 for Corn Puree and Lobster Bisque. Salads range from $9-$14; appetizers “to share” run the gamut, from steamed dumplings at $9 to Lobster Tacos and Peconic Scallops for $15. The main courses are largely in the low to mid $20 ranges, with only a New York Strip going above, at $39. There is a really nice kids menu, at just $12, for entrée, dessert and beverage. In the appetizer department, we tried something new on the menu – something at the market that day – squash blossoms, tempura-battered and stuffed with buffalo mozzarella and ricotta. They were rich, decadent and delicious, served with a lit-

tle pile of fresh diced tomatoes and a salad of micro basil. The three treats worked beautifully together. This was my favorite of the three appetizers, but I’d be happy to have the following two again. First came steamed Lemongrass-scented Chicken Dumplings with soy miso dipping sauce. The dumpling dough was light and tasty; the filling dense and flavorful; the sauce rich and well balanced. Next was Peconic Scallops with pancetta, chanterelle mushrooms, sweet pea-truffle foam. I defy any meat eater not to like this dish, which was enriched by the pancetta and chanterelles in a demi-glaze. The green pea emulsion was a light, sweet, fresh foil to the otherwise rich dish. At $15 for four huge scallops, this could easily be a entrée. We chose two fish entrées. The first, Steamed North Atlantic Halibut with a Dijon cream sauce. This very white fish was in its pure essence here: simply steamed with a lovely dense texture. This isn’t the dish for those who need to have their fish camouflaged. But for this halibut lover, I found the presentation bold and minimalist, celebrating this great fish. The sauce added richness. The potato bird nest accompaniment was fresh potato ‘sticks’ – adding the element of crunch to the dish. The fluke entrée pulled all the stops: Delicate filets of perfectly sautéed crunchy fluke atop a lob-

ster risotto. This was essentially risotto cooked in a lobster bisque (shallots, cognac) and was more lobster than rice, with chunks of the sweet meat in every bite. It came with fresh peas. A very good dish, for those with big appetites. Desserts, also made by Naylor, range from $8 for an old fashioned sundae with homemade ice cream, to $12 for a “Study of Chocolate.” We ordered the Fallend Chocolate Soufflé with local berries and vanilla gelato. This was an exploding chocolate pot that oozed out of the ramekin. Still quite warm, with not too sweet gelato. Oso also has a great bar menu, at just $4 or $5 for snacks, up to $13 for calamari, pizzette and inventive sliders. The wine menu is extensive; in fact, Oso just won an impressive distinction: the 2010 Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator Magazine for its extensive wine program – 150 wines hand picked by executive chef Bryan Nadler. The dining room at Oso, simple and casually elegant, is “windowless.” But if it’s the outdoors you crave, the courtyard in the evening or poolside tables at lunch will give you all the vitamin D or stars that you need. Oso at Southampton Inn. Daily, breakfast 7:30-11 a.m.; lunch 11:30-3 p.m.; dinner A La Carte & Prix Fixe Wednesday-Sunday 6-9 p.m. 91 Hill St., Southampton. 283-1166. Southamptoninn.com

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Dan's Papers Aug. 27, 2010  

Dan's Papers, the 51-year-old bible of the Hamptons, is owned by Manhattan Media, a multi-media publishing company based in New York City,...

Dan's Papers Aug. 27, 2010  

Dan's Papers, the 51-year-old bible of the Hamptons, is owned by Manhattan Media, a multi-media publishing company based in New York City,...

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