Page 83

DAN'S PAPERS, August 27, 2010 Page 82

Over The Barrel... with Lenn Thompson

Photo by Lenn Thompson

Tasty rieslings are being made right here on Long Island by winemakers like Greg Gove at Peconic Bay Winery, Kareem Massoud at Paumanok Vineyards at Roman Roth for his own label, Grapes of Roth at Woffer Estates. But lately I’ve been drinking more Finger Lakes riesling than anything else. They deliver great bang for the buck and bring create, thirst-quenching acidity on hot summer days. And because they are still New York wines, I consider it drinking local. Here are several of the best and best value Finger lakes rieslings I’ve tasted this summer. Yes, they can be difficult to find in local shops, but every New York winery can ship within New York. And some do make their way into NYC shops as well. Citrusy and floral, the bright nose on Ravines Wine Cellars 2008 Dry Riesling ($17) shows intense lime, citrus blossom and green apple aromas with subtle peach character (that emerges as the wine warms a bit) and a stony vein beneath. Focused and intricate, the palate is — of course — dry (.3% RS) with more lime, Granny Smith apple, floral and slate flavors that are at once delicate and intense. The finish is long an all about the stony slate character with just a little citrus zest. Red Tail Ridge Winery 2008 Dry Riesling ($18) is another great dry riesling (.4% RS). I even put it in my New York Cork Club — a NY wine-only club I curate for a Rochester-based wine shop. It features a citrusy nose of lime and sweet grapefruit with obvious flinty slate character, and subtle floral and sweet herb notes. Extremely focused and zesty on the palate, green apple, lime and lemon peel flavors are framed and energized by electric acidity. The finish is long with trailing slate flavors that linger along with more citrus

Good Fingerlake Riesling

and sweet herb. Hosmer Winery 2008 Dry Riesling ($12), made with grapes grown in the oldest section of their vineyard, planted almost 30 years ago, is very apple-y on the nose with hints of tropical fruit, fresh herbs and lime. The palate is fruity and for-

ward, showing more apple and some melon fruit character with a squirt of lime and a sprinkling of lemon zest. It’s dry (.7%) with nice balance, but not austere or harsh. The finish isn’t super-long, but for $12 you can do far far worse — not just in the Finger Lakes, but the world over. Though clearly outside of the “bargain” realm Complex and classically Finger Lakes on the nose, Hermann J. Wiemer 2008 Magdalena Vineyard Dry Riesling ($36) shows ripe peach aromas with notes of orange blossom, green apple, lime and just a little spring water minerality. Anything but austere, this wine presents mouthfilling and similarly complex fruit flavors greet the palate — peach, lime, kiwi and papaya — with a delicate floral quality and minerality that begins mid-palate and carries through to the end of a long finish. There is some residual sugar here, but also plenty of well-integrated acidity to bring freshness, balance and focus — all of which point to an interesting evolution in the bottle over the next 5-10 years. Hermann J. Wiemer 2008 Dry Riesling ($17.50) is Wiemer’s ‘regular’ dry bottling, but it’s anything but ordinary. The nose erupts with classic Finger Lakes character — bright lime, Kaffir lime leaf, lemon zest and grapefruit aromas with an undercurrent of wet slate minerality. In a mouthwatering, Kabinett style, the palate is dry (.8% RS) with electric acidity that is both balanced and integrated. Lime flavors drive the palate with white grapefruit and slightly less minerality than the nose might indicate. There is also a distinct flavor that reminds me of the candy shell on sugar-coated almonds. It shows great length and has a bright-butsmooth finish, begging for another sip — as well as a place on the lunch or dinner table.




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Dan's Papers Aug. 27, 2010  

Dan's Papers, the 51-year-old bible of the Hamptons, is owned by Manhattan Media, a multi-media publishing company based in New York City,...

Dan's Papers Aug. 27, 2010  

Dan's Papers, the 51-year-old bible of the Hamptons, is owned by Manhattan Media, a multi-media publishing company based in New York City,...