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DAN'S PAPERS, June 11, 2010 Page 62

So Much Is New!


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net sauvignon planted in the right places in the right years) it’s maybe a bit surprising that this is the first carmenere here, but before I tasted it, I still wondered if they’d be able to ripen this grape fully to minimize the bell pepper flavors that can come from under-ripe grapes (sound familiar?). Maybe they have it planted in a spot in their vineyard where reds ripen particularly well, or maybe it’s just because this wine came from the hot, dry 2007 season, but this wine shows none of that green pepper character. In fact, this wine almost seems overripe in some of it’s aromas and flavors. Ripe, almost port-like aromas of dried cherry, fig and sweet red cherry are layered with those of Chinese five spice, cedar and green peppercorns. Juicy on the palate with medium-soft tannins, rich cherry fruit, more five spice, toasty oak and clove mingle with a bit of smoke and sweet herbs. The dried fruit and fig character comes back on a medium finish. A fine first effort, I’m curious to taste the 2008 and 2009 editions of this.


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as “a dream situation for us” when I spoke with him last week, pointing to Olsen-Harbich’s “experience, accomplishment and knowledge” as three key reasons for the hiring. OlsenHarbich describes his departure from Raphael, where he’s served as head winemaker for more than a decade, as amicable, adding “I was winemaker at Raphael for 14 years and did a lot. I was ready to pursue new challenges. I look forward to working with people at Bedell that I’ve known and respected for a long time — Dave Thompson (vineyard manager) and Donna Rudolph (assistant vineyard manager), Trent (Preszler, CEO) and of course Kip, who I’ve known and been friends with for many years.” “I’m excited. I haven’t been excited like this in a few years. This is a great opportunity for me.” Osprey’s Dominion Vineyard has also just released its first Carmenere, an original Bordeaux grape that is now much more popular in Chile. As far as I know, this is the only carmenere being made on the East Coast. Given the success growers and winemakers have had with the other Bordeaux varieties (even caberPhoto by Lenn Thompson

With the Memorial day holiday behind us, the busy season has begun out in our local wine country — and it sure has been busy already. First, two new tasting rooms have joined the main wine trail along Route 25 on the North Fork — Sherwood House Vineyards and McCall Vineyards. You might recognize Sherwood House, they have had (and continue to have) a small tasting shed smack-dab in the middle of their vineyard just off of Route 48, but they’ve opened a new tasting room in Jamesport, right on the main drag. If you enjoy Old World-styled chardonnay, they are a must-stop. If you’re a North Fork wine lover, you’d probably driven past McCall Vineyards a million times without even realizing it. McCall is that vineyard directly across the street from Pellegrini Vineyards. Owner Russ McCall has been selling his fruit to Long island and upstate New York wineries for years, but now has his own wines available in a new tasting room. In other news, Rich Olsen-Harbich, long-time winemaker at Raphael in Peconic has resigned that post to take over head winemaking duties at Bedell Cellars, joining a winemaking team that includes Bedell’s founder and now founding winemaker Kip Bedell and consultant Pascal Marty. Bedell’s owner Michael Lynne described his new winemaking team

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Dan's Papers June 11, 2010  

Dan's Papers, the 51-year-old bible of the Hamptons, is owned by Manhattan Media, a multi-media publishing company based in New York City,...

Dan's Papers June 11, 2010  

Dan's Papers, the 51-year-old bible of the Hamptons, is owned by Manhattan Media, a multi-media publishing company based in New York City,...