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Dora Yzerman Hetherington M.Des Fashion and Textiles 2010/11 Design Process Portfolio (DPP) Component 3: Evaluation and Resolution

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CONTENTS

INTRDUCTION 7 ‘100 DRAWINGS’ 32 SKYPARK 59 MDES SUMMARY 76 CONCLUSION 80 FIGURES 85 BIBLIOGRAPHY 89

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INTRODUCTION

Design Process Portfolio 1: Origination and Investigation was my initial research and exploration into the design of pyjamas. I gathered market intelligence; historical fashion research; drawing and colour work; 2D/3D exploration; fabric/ silhouette experimentation. Design Process Portfolio 2: Experimentation and Progression was a continuation of my work from Stage 1. This included experimentation of sampling and toiling resulting in a full collection of fabric samples that were mocked up in drawings and from them I could then chose my Final Five to be made into my pyjamas. Design Process Portfolio 3: Evaluation and Resolution is a continuation from DPP1 & DPP2 that aims to see all of my work come together to a final outcome. I have chosen what samples to take forward for my collection and aim to demonstrate this and how I am going to go about making that collection a reality. In this Design Process Portfolio I have aimed to be more self reflective than in the previous. Even though I haven’t finished the course I am trying to summarise my thoughts. This stage sees me mainly creating my final woven fabric for my collection, so expect lots of weaving! Together with weaving we are still attending our pattern cutting class with Juliet Dearden. I already have my toiles looking the way I’d like them too, so I will be using this class to help me create my final garments as perfectly as possible! My DPP3 is evidence of the evaluation and resolution of my collection. Page 7


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Figure 1: DPP2, Dora Hetherington, April 2011

Thursday 14th April 2011.

DPP2 is in the printers! Yas! I’m feeling quite proud of it. It only took 2 days! (Well 4 if you include writing it up.) Monday was a hardcore day in the library inserting all my text and images into their new homes! Tuesday I went home for the doctor- would have liked to have done more DPP but ended up going out for high tea with my parents and getting back to Glasgow quite late. Michael quickly had a scan over it and suggested some adjustments. Wednesday was spent indoors staring at a computer screen writing all the text that wasn’t in the log. But it was that simple! (I hope the finished product doesn’t look as though it took no time at all!!- That would be bad.) Pattern cutting today with Juliet. At first we thought it would be better to start from scratch to get my dressing gown toile perfected. We soon realised it was really just the collar that we needed to sort. So I unpicked the first collar and then Juliet sewed on the new one.

It was that easy! Now we just need to sew on 55cm in length (or pin), just to make sure it works, and add the pockets and facing! Had a meeting with Beca this morning about the ‘100 drawings’. First I need to do a little research into the Russian movement of Constructivism as Beca feels this is how my drawings should be illustrated! I’ll need to look at each garment on my mannequin and draw in the constructivism way! Pyjama Shirt Boxer Shorts Long Shorts Trousers Nightshirt (x2) Dressing Gown (2 lengths) So next week I will scan my fabrics to size and scale down. Reckon I’ll have to ask Sean to print these! Have to do things mega cheap this term!! Then cut out lots of garment shapes to photograph and mix ‘n’ match.

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Figure 2: (2011) An Example of Russian Constructivism


Friday 15th April 2011.

I think I went a bit mental today. After my meeting with Beca yesterday I just felt mega stressed out. Since being back from India I’ve felt a bit lost because I don’t think I’ve had time to think properly. I was ill for the first week and then in major DPP2 mode the second. There has just been a lot of information to process and I feel like I haven’t caught up with anything. Today I was meant to have a class with Frances Robertson but I couldn’t face making up some nonsense to discuss. I phoned mum and burst into tears. It was then I realised I had to stop, take a step back and sort things out. So instead of going to class I have stayed home and written a MASSIVE ‘to do’ list. It looks quite daunting but it should keep me busy and help to feel like I’m catching up with things.

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Monday 18th April 2011.

Tuesday 19th April 2011.

Got up all early and excited to pick my DPP2 up, but I had to wait until 10am so I went for breakfast in Beanscene. DPP2 cost me £49. ! was So relieved!

I had a very lazy morning, a total waste really. I’ve realised I don’t enjoy lazy days when I know I have work looming over me.

Hand in was fine; it’s completely out of my control now!! Scanned in all my fabric for these ‘100 drawings’, then went home to work on them and realised I hadn’t saved them on my USB. DOH! At least the start of the day was simple!

However, during my lazy morning I have realised I am craving sketching, really craving it! I can’t wait to go home now and draw. Draw for me, not as a part of the course. When I finally got to uni I sat down and sorted all of my fabrics on the computer. I scaled them down and put them into repeats, now I just need to get them printed to see how realistic they are!

Figure 3: Woven Pattern in Repeat, Dora Hetherington, March 2011.

I’ve figured out my new warp for tomorrow, although I’m not sure what I am meant to be doing at the moment. Should I be sampling? Should I be weaving finals? I just don’t know.

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Wednesday 20th April 2011.

I was In The Zone this morning! I sorted my new warp right out! (Still no idea what I am actually going to weave but I figured it was best if I just put something on and kept powering throughsomething might come to me right?!). So my new warp, I decided to keep it in line with my colour wraps, so I decided on black sections separated by a small block of beige with a red stripe in the middle of that. I have warped up with 2 warps, one simply black, and the other with beige and red. Did all the warping up, pulled all the threads through and tied them to the front beam in 4 hours!

Pretty going going I say! All done before lunch, I’m very pleased with myself; I enjoy this part of the process, when I can just get my head down and d the work. Putting in headphones is def best for this. Really REALLY dislike the stupid health and safety rule that dictates we can’t wear headphones. Sod it. I really need to sort these scaled fabrics out. I realised last night that they need to be scaled down even more for them to fit with the drawings I plan on doing. At the moment they aren’t realistic at all, they barely look any smaller than the real deal…

Figure 4: Colour Wrap, Dora Hetherington, October 2010.

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Thursday 21st April 2011.

RANT

Aaah lots of worrying. I’m rubbish*. Rubbish company, a big teary mess. I should just curl up in a corner and feel sorry for myself without bothering anyone! It’s unfair that Michael has to pick me up. I could put on a happy front but that wouldn’t be true and I’m not one for lying to him. He’s so good but he just doesn’t get that I feel completely rubbish about myself and everything else everyday- unfortunately it’s not something I can just snap out of. During the summer I was so happy but as soon as I started this course I’ve been full of worry and self-doubt! In India I was all happy again and now I’m back at school I’m sad. What’s up with that!? When I’m on holiday I don’t tend to worry and therefore I seem to be really happy. Now that I have a lots of worries I’ve turned into rubbish company. I’ll be all fine one moment but as soon as conversation turns to my future, my interests or me I go blank and well up with tears. It’s not nice, makes me look like a complete idiot and it just makes me think, “what is the point in me?”

On a separate note, today was pattern cutting with Julietwe began by adding the facing to my dressing gown toile. Looks good! I now want to go through each of my paper patterns and perfect them. Redo every single one; make sure all of the seam allowances are shown and correct; make sure all of my garments have a 5cm hem on all of the sleeves and bottoms. I need to create an extra paper pattern for my longer length dressing gown. Still need to pin that extra 55cm! Woops! So I’m getting there. Today I managed to redo my dressing gown, a second dressing gown with added 55cm. I then began on a nightshirt (one that buttons all of the way down). They’re perfect! Took a little longer than expected but I have the satisfaction of knowing they’re perfect. They’re all rolled up in their poster boxes, all labelled and organised. Feeling quite proud of myself! *Rubbish would not be the term I would use right now, it would be much stronger. (don’t fret, life gets better later on!!)

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Figure 5: Image of Rolled up Paper Patterns, Dora Hetherington, April 2011.


Friday 22nd April 2011.

Will come in over the weekend and do some work. I need to get my bum in gear and get these constructivist drawings on the go. I figure as long as I have the basic shapes of the pyjama, nightshirt and dressing gown I can just churn the shapes out. I’ve got a lot done this week but it just doesn’t feel good enough- I’ve got too much on my mind and I’m feeling particularly down at the moment.

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Figure 6-12: Constructivist Inspired Drawings, Dora Hetherington, April 2011.

Spent this morning doing elective work, searching for flats and trying to sort out my financial situation! The entire day has pretty much been dedicated to elective work.


Tuesday 26th April 2011.

Today has been mega productive. I have been cutting out all of my garment shapes with the print outs of my fabric. There are maybe about 20 different samples. 20 x dressing gown, nightshirt and pyjamas is a lot of cutting out! Looks bloomin’ awesome though! My review went very well, Beca is loving what I am doing with my cut outs and gave me a few pointers (to add a belt and pocket detail). When I’m photographing them I need to remember to split the dressing gown so you can see what’s happening in the layer below. Plan is to take all the photos in the morning! Page 17

THE SUN IS OUT !

Another amazing review with Beca! I’ve been trying to catch up with all the work this week. Yesterday I spent the day with mum but managed to do a little work in the evening. To get the ‘constructivism’ look through in my drawings I looked at photographs of my toiles and outlined very simply the shape of each toile. I then played about with the scale so it matched my fabric printouts correctly. Then went to bed.


Wednesday 27th April 2011.

Came in early this morning with the sole intention of powering through these photographs of combinations of my ‘100 drawings’ (didn’t get around to it last nightdon’t know where the time went!). Found a nice quiet spot in the studio and began snapping away. I got to about 148 photos and my battery died! Typical! I need a plan! I need to see Frances at 10.40 but I also need to get photos developed, charge my camera, take new photos, get the new photos developed and go to the library and find some inspiration for this dreaded Aesthetics in Creative Practise essay! New plan! Go to Jessops and get what photos I already have developed. Go to the library THEN visit Frances and blag an essay plan. Go home, charge my camera, take more photos and get them into Jessops this afternoon. Possibly weave afterwards. Maybe. I didn’t weave, I went home and looked at the photos on my computer. I HAVE TOO MANY! Page 18


Thursday 28th April 2011. Picked up all 450 odd photographs from Jessops this morning. It’s so awesome to see all the cut out garments working together! SO MANY variations to choose from!!

TOO MANY!

I began whittling them down by going through each packet of photos quickly and being ruthless about selection! Once I had done that with each packet I had my ‘100 drawings’ sorted!! (see page 38.) Choosing the final 5 as my collection proposal was mighty hard. I laid out all the photos in batches and chose my favourites until I had about 20. When I had 20 I had to think a bit and make sure I had pyjamas, nightshirt etc and make sure everything matched! Whittled it down to 6! My meeting with Beca, Juliet and Jimmy was meant to be at 12.40. I didn’t go in until 3pm. Meeting went really well, they liked what I had chosen. They swapped the blue dressing gown for the red double cloth but that was all the changed! I also need to

redo 1 sample so the colours are more like the photograph. (Darker, more of a red wine colour). Then I just need to work out the shrinkage and meterage, buy my yarns and get weaving! It’s all getting a little bit scary now! In-between identifying my chosen garments and meeting with tutors I had the intention of weaving the warp I had on the loom… but then I thought “why?” It isn’t relevant to what I’m doing. Why should I weave more than I need to right now, I’ve chosen my final collection after all, and I don’t need to do anymore sampling. I wasn’t being lazy, I was just very aware that soon I will need to weave my final collection, so why waste time and yarn! So I decided to take the warp off the loom, ill take it home and put it on my table loom at some point! It has been an all round good and productive day I feel. A very nice start to the Royal weekend! Will get back to work on Tuesday and get organised again. A fresh start to the final chapter!

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INTRODUCING...

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MY FINAL FIVE Page 21


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Figure 13: Proposed Final Collection, Garment 1, Dora Hetherington, April 2011.


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Figure 14: Proposed Final Collection, Garment 2, Dora Hetherington, April 2011.


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Figure 15: Proposed Final Collection, Garment 3, Dora Hetherington, April 2011.


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Figure 16: Proposed Final Collection, Garment 4, Dora Hetherington, April 2011.


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Figure 17: Proposed Final Collection, Garment 5, Dora Hetherington, April 2011.


Wednesday 4th May 2011.

May already! It’s come so quickly- this is a little worrying! I’ve had a very slow week, been feeling exhausted from the weekend. (Drove down to Coventry for a wedding and back the same day, that’s A LOT of driving!) As soon as I got into uni on Monday the tiredness hit me hard so I went straight home and pondered over a few things. Tuesday I felt the pressure on so off to school I went! I had to redo a sample to show Beca a different colourway, so I warped up a little mini warp! This time, instead of using a pale pink like I did on my first sample, I used beige because when I washed the first sample the colour from another yarn ran and changed the pale pink to beige! I found a maroon colour in the yarn store so that did the trick!

seem to be incredibly selfish with a lot of weavy things. Anyway, I got all warped up but by the time all my threads were pulled through and tied on I couldn’t face weaving! Instead I tidied my desk and put up my chosen 5 designs on the wall with accompanying fabric! Wednesday morning I just came in and wove my samples, I had 2 darker shades of red to choose between. They both worked well but I think ill go for the maroon shade. The other yarn was just too dark and it just looked as though I was putting black across the weft. Off to the library now to check out some texts for this essay, found out that some groups aren’t even getting assessed! What’s the deal with that, this just adds to my rage regarding that class!

Those pesky 4th years had left their warps on the warping stakes so I had to wait for them to roll out of bed and do something about them before I could do anything! Oh I had the rage towards them today!! They Page 28


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Thursday 5th May 2011.

Washed my woven sample last night- it only shrank my ½ an inch that is awesome. I know my garments are going to be washed and look worn but I cant remember if we’re doing all that to the fabric before it gets cut up! Today in our pattern cutting class I continued to retrace all my pattern pieces and file them away neatly ready for when I need them! Scary stuff. Juliet was a huge help in reminding me to do lots of little things I would have otherwise forgotten about, for example, increasing the facing, putting in notches and just lots of little things that are going to make the construction process a lot simpler!

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Friday 6th May 2011.

Juliet, bless her! She has worked out all of my meterage for me! So so kind of her. In total I’m looking to weave about 50 metres!

Its fair enough that she is away the following week and cant mark our work any other time, I’m just angry that she didn’t tell us until now.

FIFTY METRES!!

MEGA RAGE. We don’t need this right now.

It hasn’t sunk in yet… I’ve been trying t compile a list of the yarns I’m going to have to use. Haven’t got a clue where to start! My warps are so varied with all the different colours that it’s going to be very difficult to work out the weight of each warp. These calculations are usually the ones I get very wrong! So I think for the first few warps I’m going to wing it and hope for the best. I think weaving this amount it totally do-able! I have a 3-week head start already and we have until august so that’s plenty of time! Right? So we had a meeting with Beca this morning who had neglected to inform us our Stage 2 deadline has been brought forward a week to next Friday- the same day that our stupid essays are due in!

Next week I had planned to weave my entire silk collection and get it out of the way. OH NO. NOT ANYMORE. There is no way I can write an essay, get all of my Stage 2 stuff together and looking presentable PLUS weave 8metres of double cloth silk! HA! So quick change of plan.. I’ll attempt to do as much essay as I can at the weekend, weave the pockets and sample 1 scarf next week Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday. Thursday is pattern cutting/ Stage 2 hand in and Friday is essay hand in! Oh the plus side, my silk arrived!

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Figure 18-41: ‘100 Drawings’, Dora Hetherington, April 2011.

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Figure 42-68: ‘100 Drawings’, Dora Hetherington, April 2011.

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Figure 69-102: ‘100 Drawings’, Dora Hetherington, April 2011.

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Figure 103-126: ‘100 Drawings’, Dora Hetherington, April 2011.

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DISASTER NO.1.

Sunday 22nd May 2011.

I know, I know, it’s been too long! Had my last ever essay to hand in 2 weeks ago along with all the Stage 2 work. It was a very manic week. No design work got done; it was just a case of getting everything together.

As I was stretching my warp out it became very apparent I would have problems with the tension! The threads were taught in certain places and completely floppy in othersit was a horrid sight. A complete mess. Alas I thought it would be okay if I managed to correct the tension when putting my warp on the loom.

DISAS 16th- 20th May 2011.

Warping up ‘Africa’ pattern. Not too sure why I’m calling it Africa, colours I relate to Africa I guess! It makes sense to me anyway to call it Africa! So I began warping up on Monday morning. I’ve had to warp up in sections of colour because they change so much. This is taking a lot more time than I was willing to put in! It was VERY frustrating! I got most of it done but got very frustrated and left! Tuesday I went to school and continued making my warpsuch a Looooooooooong process because of this entire colour changing nonsense!

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DISASTER NO.2.

DISASTER NO.3.

For a while I was trying to wind my warp on the back of the loom myself- a 36 inch wide by 6 metres long warp is virtually impossible to do on your own, let alone sort the tension at the same time, who knows why I was attempting that alone. Anyway, it turned out to be a 3-person job in the end!

I had to pull half of yesterdays work out in order to fix my stupid mistake. Then redo it all again! There were A LOT of tears today! Bad bad bad day. But I was brave and powered through, managed to get everything sorted.

STER ! We quickly realised the tension would still be horrendous so I would need to pull the threads through the heddles and reed, THEN wind the entire warp forwards, THEN wind the whole thing back again! Wednesday I began pulling the threads through the heddles in the correct order. No drama, just got on with it. Thursday- as I was pulling the threads through the reed I realised I had missed a heddle half way through.

Friday- today is the day for fixing the tension! With the help of Chantal we wound it to the front and then to the back. This took about 2 ½ hours! It looked awful- I honestly thought all of my threads were going to snap. It wasn’t fun!

It was a painful experience but I got it done. This whole process was meant to take 2 days max. It has taken 5! Thank goodness it’s the end of the week, going back to the parents to relax over the weekend! Made my pegplan today… planning ahead you see!

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(Right) Figure 127: Image of warping up a loom, Dora Hetherington, May 2011. (Above) Figure 128: Image of a warped up loom, Dora Hetherington, May 2011.

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Monday 23rd May 2011.

So I made my pegplan last week, provided I stay on the same loom I can use this pattern for all of my weaves! Started weaving properly today but after a while I noticed I had a lot of threads that were ‘floating’ along the back. After a lot of poking around the loom I realised a shaft wasn’t lifting because it was jammed. Fixed that and the loom works fine now. Happy days! Fixing the loom took ages actually; so to keep my sanity I went home.

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In for 8am this morning! I feel like this is what I’m going to be doing for my remaining months here! But all is well today weaving wise. Very pleased! Wednesday 25th May 2011.

In again for 8am! Weaving weaving weaving! I’m slowly going insane. This mornings weaving has been going well. I have just been continuing with my tartan Africa pattern. I’ve become quite aware that I’m more productive before lunchtime… This afternoon my threads began snapping all over the place. This makes me very frustrated and a little bit mental! I’m so close to finishing this pattern and things are just going wrong! I did manage to power through so I just have one more repeat left to do in the morning!

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WEAVE WEAVE WEAVE WEAVE

Tuesday 24th May 2011.


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Thursday 26th May 2011.

Figure 129: Woven ‘Africa’ Pattern, Dora Hetherington, April 2011.

In for 8am AGAIN! I love early mornings when no one is around yet!! Got my first pattern complete! Pyjama bottoms are officially done! So far I have woven 5 metres (including pockets and 1 sample scarf!). Only 45 metres to go!! Went to the pattern cutting class at 9am and began to make pockets for my dressing gown. (This afternoon was supposed to be spent weaving but I helped a friend put up her degree show instead) I’m absolutely amazed at the standard of work of all the 4th years. Some people are clearly going to go far. Very proud of all the weave girls, they’re stuff looks awesome. I snuck into the Strathclyde DMEM degree show this evening- some of the stuff was quite cool, a good bit

of design going on, but other stuff I just felt was a complete waste of space. Having studied at GSA for 4+ years, I’ve had the importance of presentation drilled into me at every given opportunity and to see some of the stuff at another universities degree show that looks so flung together and unpolished just looks disgraceful. The background material wasn’t even ironed for goodness sake! It’s such a fun time of year to see what other universities are doing. GSA looks way better! I’m so excited for degree show opening, it feels very different for me having been there and moved on. I don’t feel jealous anymore. I did the best I could and I did well. I’m finding it quite exciting to see what others are doing this year.

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Figure 130: Image warping up for pockets and scarf on Swiss Arm Loom, Dora Hetherington, May 2011.

Figure 131: Weaving for pockets and scarf on Swiss Arm Loom, Dora Hetherington, May 2011.

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Friday 27th May 2011.

Friday was a bad day. Think I was just mega exhausted from all this weaving and I’ve had a lot on my mind. It was one of those days that started off with me not being able to get out of bed! So instead I took the day off and got a few things done, all the boring little things I had been regretting. Monday 30th May 2011.

Wove the final last metre of my pyjama top! Woo Hoo! Spent the weekend weaving away. I think my break on Friday must have helped. I have been getting very fed up with this loom. Occasionally it doesn’t want to lift a certain shaft, which is leaving me with flawed fabric! Not impressed. There is no logic to the faults, they’re just totally random!

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Tuesday 31st May 2011.

Warping up Africa again! My warp was so wide last time that bits were super tight and others really slack. This was because I was tying up after each colour so they were all separately tied on. What I should have done was tie each colour to the nextthis way the tension can be more easily spread. So this time, I’m doing that, I’m tying each colour onto the next but I’m also making

2 warps, using 2 beams. Hopefully with this concentrated amount of yarn the tension will even out a bit better. I can’t quite face tying these onto my loom today; I don’t think I could face it if anything went wrong! The last time was such a disaster! My aim for this warp is to be tear free!

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Figure 132: Warping up ‘Africa’ Pattern using 2 beams, Dora Hetherington, May 2011.

We had our DPP3 briefing this morning, some of the information was quite repetitive but it was like something clicked for me. The ‘overview’ suddenly made sense! I think this is what my DPP has been missing! As ridiculous as it sounds… I don’t think I’ve done a very good job in the past of answering these questions, which is just laziness on my part. Honestly, it just feels like something clicked! So this is good. DPP3 should be even more to the point. I need to start thinking more reflectively now and start answering some questions! Instead of going back and amending my log I’d like to slot in particular topics where I see their relevance. If I were to go and change my log I think it would just read all wrong and forced where as if I simply submit extra reflective thoughts here and there I think it would be much nicer.

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3 months left…

Wednesday 1st June 2011.


Final line up of toiles today! I’m ready! Have got all my toiles ready, fabric combination ready, mock up drawing to represent each look ready. I’m ready! I went into my tutorial. Laid everything out clearly- had the model wear the pyjamasdone! It was over very quickly. Beca seemed happy. I was very straight to the point and clear. Everyone else seemed to take ages in their tutorial; I was just in and out. This makes me doubt myself! Perhaps I have forgotten something! But I know what I’m doing and I think I got that across. No need to waste time! NOW I NEED TO DO MY LAST BIT OF WEAVING IN THE NEWBERY...

SOB.

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Figure 133: Image Loom Room in the Newbery Tower, Dora Hetherington, June 2011.

Thursday 2nd June 2011.


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I AM SUCH AN IDIOT.

3rd- 8th June 2011.

Got warped up in record timethe 2-beam warp thing seems to be working well. Tension seems to be fine. I’m a little behind schedule but that seems to be the norm when warping up. I can catch up when I’m weaving! Wove the 2 metres for the boxers on Monday. Done! No problems! A nice royal blue colour. I started off weaving my dressing gown in a ‘tobacco’ lambswool. It’s weaving up so quickly, guaranteed to finish early!

WEAVE WEAVE WEAVE So Wednesday 8th June, I thought I had woven enough for the dressing gown. I unwound a back beam to calculate how much warp I had left. Doing this was such a stupid mistake. The tension is now royally [insert swear word] not that I’ve tried to wind it back again. So I couldn’t weave anymore if I wanted to. I cut off my fabric- it measures just under 6 metres which is 1.5 metres less than what I need for my long dressing gown. (All is not lost; I have another Africa warp later so I can add 1.5m on then.) Page 54


Friday 10th June 2011.

DPP2 critique with Helen went blooming well today! Helen was very positive which was reassuring considering we haven’t got our grades back yet! (I’m annoyed because some of the postgraduate groups have got their Stage 2 grades back already!) Helen is a whizz with fonts! I’m so impressed she can tell one font from another and distinguish between such fine detail- and name the fonts too! This is a skill, I’m totally impressed! Apparently the font I was planning on using for this DPP is very ‘90’s’, I’m okay with that! I don’t need some fancy contemporary font!

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Figure 134-142: Various Images from the Newbery Tower, Dora Hetherington, June 2011.

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4TH FLOOR

SKYPARK

5 45 FINNESTON STREET GLASGOW G3 8JU Page 59


Monday 27th June 2011.

Day 1. At Skypark! It’s a building site. I didn’t think it would be cleaned and polished but I did expect a working environment… FOR STUDENT! Not the bloomin’ workmen. The looms are up! Covered in dust! Warping posts aren’t secured so we can’t make warps! There is nowhere to stretch the warps! The computer looms haven’t been linked up to the computers because there is too much dust and eh, we’re missing electricity! Not really sure what’s going on to be honest, some of the equipment hasn’t even arrived yet- we don’t have sewing machines, or a yarn store. I know it’s a lot to ask but I really was expecting more! I honestly thought we could come in and start working immediately.

This is quite unfair having to move; it’s a building site here- how are we expected to work constructively in this place! Over the holidays- to be honest I didn’t really do much textile related! I went through my fabric and tied in all the broken threads and just made it look prettier! I still need to create my final yarn list and get everything ordered. I also need to make up my garments with the fabric I’ve already woven. I need to get weaving dammit! I’m freaking out slightly with all this building work going on. Skypark seems a bit of a shambles and I’m getting worried I’m not going to have time to do everything. BUT it will get done, one way or another!

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Figure 143: Image Master’s Room in Skypark, Dora Hetherington, June 2011.

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Tuesday 28th June 2011.

Had a meeting with Beca yesterday afternoon, just a Stage 2 feedback type of thing.

I DID WELL! I did really well. Lots of commendation! Beca said she really admired my drive. When we had our DPP2 critique I commented on various peoples DPP’s saying how I wished I had included this or done something that way. This shows I’m constantly looking to improve myself and my work, and it is evident how it comes across.

Had an awesome CV workshop with Lesley Black this afternoon. So useful. I thought it would be a waste of time but I really feel it got us thinking and I suppose it kind of scared us a bit! I think we all realised we needed to be doing a lot more right now to be ready for our Promenade Show in September.

PANIC But our timeline doesn’t start until July. A few days left to relax. YEAH RIGHT!

Today was a rubbish day. I mis-read my warping calculations when warping up with my silk for the scarves. Instead of warping up with 4 cones (like in my notes) I warped up with 2, which meant I did the same amount of loops needed but I was left with half a warp! I felt so stupid! I only realised my mistake when I was nearly finished pulling the threads through! I spent the afternoon making another identical warp to put on in the morning! Page 62

Figure 144: Image of Swiss Arm Loom, Ready to weave scarves, Dora Hetherington, June 2011.


Figure 145: Image of Weave Workshop at Skypark, Dora Hetherington, June 2011.

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Wednesday 29th June 2011.

A better day today, quite simple, un-interrupted! Came in, got my new warp on the back of the loom no problem, pulled all the threads through the heddles then whizzed pulling them through the reed. HAPPY DAYS. Hooked the loom up to the computer and everything worked perfectly. Couldn’t have asked for anything more! My first scarf is going to be pure silk, the same colours in the weft as the warp (beige and coffee). No cheating allowed for this sample! I fully expect this scarf to take the longest length of time compared to the others. It’s come to the end of the day and I’ve woven 50cm, that’s okay! Tomorrow will be long I feel!

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Thursday 30th June 2011.

I’m still frustrated we have to work in a building site. But good news- we now have first aid kits! Honestly I don’t believe that legally we’re allowed to be here. It’s a joke- there are still men walking about in hard hats and high Vis jacketscables are hanging from the ceilings. Apparently most of the department’s stuff is still in the Newbery, why couldn’t we have stayed there if they’re just using it as storage.

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IT’S A JOKE!

I finished weaving yesterdays scarf! Wove one more and about half way through the 3rd! I’d like to have got that woven too but it just wasn’t meant to be! A productive day non the less!


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Friday 1st July 2011.

July- it’s okay Dora, there’s no need to freak out (well there is, but you shouldn’t!)

Stage 1: 9-10am; finish yesterdays scarf. (next page) Figure 147: Final 6 Woven Scarves, Dora Hetherington, July 2011.

Figure 146: Image of Scarves being washed in bath, Dora Hetherington, July 2011.

I have a 3-stage plan for today and I intend to stick to it!

Stage 2: 10-12.30pm; weave another scarf. (scarf 4.) Stage 3: 1.30-4pm; weave final scarf. And then anything afterwards is a bonus! Turns out I was all done by 4pm, got everything cut off the loom and tidied away. I managed to tidy my fabric as well! I separated each scarf which was ace having the time to properly do that and tie in all the tassels. It’s really incredible to see the lengths that I’ve woven turn into real things!

SCARVES ARE DONE!!!!

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Today I went to Skypark (I don’t like calling it ‘uni’ or ‘school’) and stretched half of my next warp. I’m going to put it on in 2 warps but on the same beam, hopefully this will fix my tension problems finally! This week is DPP3 priority week but I still feel pressured to weave.

Figure 148: Image Warping Stakes, Skypark, Dora Hetherington, July 2011.

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Figure 149: Image Stretching ‘Africa’ Warp, Skypark, Dora Hetherington, July 2011.

Monday 4th July 2011.


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Thursday 7th July 2011.

Pattern cutting today with Beca and Juliet. It’s very nice to see Beca in this environment, actively helping us out. Usually it’s just the one off tutorial we get with her. Today was super good! It was more of a one on one session, Juliet and myself and Li with Beca. It was so good to have Juliet all to myself! I had my fabric all washed and ready to be cut up! (AArrrggghh!! The steam iron is still broken, so we have to use the rubbishy domestic! I’m being an iron snob I know!) Got my boxers and pyjama bottoms made up no problem! LOOKS AWESOME I’m so chuffed to see real garments made out of my fabric!

cut the fabric this way! Hopefully it looks just as good! This has made Juliet and myself doubt the calculations of the other pattern pieces! The dressing gown seems to be okay but the nightshirt pattern didn’t include allowance for the sleeves?! THE SLEEVES for goodness sake! So that’s another 1.5m to weave for that! My next warp is 8m; this should include a nightshirt, long shorts and the sleeves of the dressing gown I forgot! With the extra 1.5m of the nightshirt to weave I’m getting a little worried not everything will fit! One way to know for sure! JUST DO IT.

It wasn’t all plain sailing though, my pyjama shirt that I had woven with a black and white horizontal pattern didn’t fit the pattern pieces, the width I had woven wasn’t wide enough. It’s okay though, we found a compromise! Plan B, the stripes are going to go vertically, the pattern pieces all fit in if we

Beca brought an example of a belt in today. WOW. It’s beautiful, so thin and elegant. It has a metal hoop on one side, and on the other the leather tapers to a point, it’s really stunning. Ties around my waist perfectly and hangs wonderfully too. It makes my dressing gown toile look really good!

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So I’ll need 3 belts, I’m thinking all very thin, keep them the same theme but have each slightly different. Belt One: tapered to a point on one end and a hoop on the other. Belt Two: ends.

tapered on both

Belt Three: hoop on both ends

Figure 150: Image of Dressing Gown Toile, focusing on belt detail. Model: Dora Hetherington, Image: Dora Hetherington July 2011.

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(Opposite Page)(Top) Figure 161: Pyjama Top Pattern cut out with final fabric, to be sewn, Dora Hetherington, July 2011. (bottom left) Figure 162: Final Garment, Pyjama Bottoms, Dora Hetherington, July 2011. (Bottom Right) Figure 163: Final Garment, Boxers, Dora Hetherington, July 2011.

Figure 160: Image of Final Woven Fabric washed in bath, Dora Hetherington, July 2011.

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Monday 11th July 2011.

My scarves; boxers and pyjama bottoms are done! They’re real! My 1st pyjama top is half way there! That leaves long shorts, nightshirt, dressing gown (x2 and a little bit!), pyjama top and bottoms to go! I’m aiming to be finished weaving in 4-5 weeks, its going to be hardcore! I can’t wait to see everything come together and be able to match up my scarves with each completed outfit!! It’s getting exciting now! Looking back I don’t think I have had to compromise on too much. Just recently my 1st pyjama top didn’t work out exactly as I had hoped. The black and white stripes were meant to be horizontal but they had to be cut vertical (didn’t have enough fabric for horizontal- woops!). But that’s okay, it might even look better than I had anticipated! I just need to be careful with future warps to make sure they’re as wide as my calculations say they are! I’m getting nervous at the thought of weaving such a huge amount of double cloth fabric. Firstly that’s 2000

odd threads I need to pull through, not sure if there is going to be enough heddles on the shafts! Plus my pegplan is MASSIVE, so I don’t know if that’s going to be okay. It’s so long that I just know something will go wrong… I’ve never attempted anything like this before! All my double cloth patterns were woven on a computer loom at about 8” wide so I never had to worry about these issues! I’ve done the calculations and I think I’ll be okay! (word of warning!) I’ve had to be really careful this year when it comes to money, I have none you see! I made a huge point of working over the summer to save as much as possible, BUT NOTHING PREPARES YOU FOR THE EXPENSE OF THIS COURSE. I remember there was some information given at the start saying we should budget £2-3000 for course materials. When you read that you forget about all your other expenses because you just cant believe course material will cost you so much. But they do!

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I’m so thankful to my parents who have never questioned me when I’ve had to ask for money, they’ve been so kind and generous throughout my education. Just recently I’ve felt I have had to compromise on fonts and paper. After my last DPP feedback session with Helen, she suggested a font for me to use for this DPP, I had a look online and it costs around $39, which as a one off cost really isn’t a lot but I’ve done a lot of thinking and I’ve realised there is going to be A LOT of one off costs to come, just with getting this printed and accessorising my collection, lots of little things. Font is something I’ve had to cut. As is nice paper, the cost of P&P is just unjustifiable at the moment. I’m just going to keep it simple, all my DPP’s will have the same quality of paper for now. If I get the chance to later I’d like to mix it up a little and get some different qualities of paper on the go.

I’ve continued to surprise myself this year! I honestly thought when I started this course that It would be so much more stress and hard work than my Undergraduate degree, but it’s been nothing like that. Don’t get me wrong, there has been a hell of a lot of tear and stress. But last year I pulling some crazy hours, in at 8am, home at 10pm, in bed at 1-2am, 6-7 days a week. This year I still do decent hours but I’m home in time for dinner and it’s only now that I’m weaving I have to stay late into the evenings. I still have a little bit of a life outside Art School! During this course I have had to really manage my time efficiently. DPP and elective work really eat into things and I have to be strict with myself not to just focus on studio all of the time. I’ve leant to take a step back and not overwork everything. It’s okay to leave things alone. The research stage of the course was intense,

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just gathering, editing, gathering, editing… and so on, but it has been incredibly rewarding to see how that initial stage has influenced my collection. I’m so proud of my ‘100 drawings’, I found a technique that worked for me and I went with it. To think so many months ago when I was researching, that I would be creating a collection that looked as it does is just unreal. It’s been so rewarding. What’s really been a huge learning curve was speaking in front of people… and enjoying it! I don’t really know what’s come over me, I still get all nervous but as soon as I start talking I’m in my element! I never thought it would come so easy! I do doubt myself an awful lot but I seem to be doing something right. I always *touch wood, have great reviews with tutors, but perhaps they’re just really polite! I should have more confidence in my work. I’ve been getting A LOT of compliments this year and getting good feedback. I just need to believe what’s written and

said is true! I’ve been asking myself a lot recently, during my time at Art School, what have I enjoyed most? I’ve loved every second of my time here. As cheesy as it sounds I totally have been living the dream. I love the design process, seeing projects through- I love to see the outcome I come up with! At the beginning of term I thought I would be designing a suit collection! It’s so exciting how things change! Weaving is amazing, I don’t think I’ll ever get a job doing what I do now though. I love weaving lengths of fabric and seeing them turn into garments or whatever. But realistically if I do continue to weave, it’ll either be for someone else or I’ll only be weaving little samples before they get produced in mills. I’ve enjoyed being class rep (2 years), decant rep, New Designers rep and being in charge of the Sponsorship for the 3rd year Fashion Show. I’ve loved organising things and managing people, knowing

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what’s going on and relaying information. I love being super organised and knowing I have the answers to peoples questions, or at least knowing where to find the answers! Doing this and some aspects of my studio work would be my ideal working scenario! Will have to wait and see what the future holds! Creating these DPP’s has been a fantastic experience. I really believe it has been invaluable being forced to think about daily activities and my thought process. There are so many things you think of but forget quickly. Writing them down and working from them can really take your work to a new level and allows you to see things from different perspectives. I hope this is something I’ll continue with in the future no matter what I end up doing.

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Conclusion


To begin with I was a bit sceptical about creating a pyjama collection, I was very much focused on creating the ultimate suit fabric. In fact throughout the whole of the 1st term I was too shy to tell anyone about creating a pyjama collection for fear they would give me that ‘you’re a pretentious fashion student aren’t you’ look. I hate the fact that some people don’t respect what I do as a valid degree. The 1st term I was quite sceptical, I wasn’t sure how everything would come together successfully. Stage 2 was much more positive, things came together a lot more for me. My sampling went well, it took me a while to figure out the direction I was taking my collection but I got there! I could most defiantly see how my pyjamas were going to take shape. The ‘100 drawings’ was amazing for me. I was able to churn out so many variations in a short space of time, but they still looked ace! I’m so so happy with them. From them I could really start to see what fabrics went together and what my 5 garments were

going to look like! Stage 3 so far has been exciting. It’s good to not have that stupid elective class (which by the way, I got an A5 for! I honestly thought I would be lucky to scrape a C!). I’m just powering through making lengths of fabrics, which when doing so feels like I’ll never finish the warp, but when I see my fabric made into a garment- it makes everything worthwhile. I’m so proud of myself. I don’t even care about the all the discarded scraps of fabric that I’ve put so much effort into weaving!

I absolutely cannot wait to see my finished collection.

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Figure 1: DPP2, Dora Hetherington, April 2011. Figure 2: (2011) An Example of Russian Constructivism http://selfinterestandsympathy.files. wordpress.com/2010/02/057.jpg (last date accessed 11.07.2011). Figure 3: Woven Pattern in Repeat, Dora Hetherington, March 2011.

Figures

Figure 4: Colour Wrap, Dora Hetherington, October 2010. Figure 5: Image of Rolled up Paper Patterns, Dora Hetherington, April 2011. Figure 6-12: Constructivist Inspired Drawings, Dora Hetherington, April 2011. Figure 13: Proposed Final Collection, Garment 1, Dora Hetherington, April 2011. Figure 14: Proposed Final Collection, Garment 2, Dora Hetherington, April 2011. Figure 15: Proposed Final Collection, Garment 3, Dora Hetherington, April 2011. Figure 16: Proposed Final Collection, Garment 4, Dora Hetherington, April 2011. Figure 17: Proposed Final Collection, Garment 5, Dora Hetherington, April 2011. Figure 18-41: ‘100 Drawings’, Dora Hetherington, April 2011. Figure 42-68: ‘100 Drawings’, Dora Hetherington, April 2011.

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Figure 69-102: ‘100 Drawings’, Dora Hetherington, April 2011. Figure 103-126: ‘100 Drawings’, Dora Hetherington, April 2011. Figure 127: Image of warping up a loom, Dora Hetherington, May 2011. Figure 128: Image of a warped up loom, Dora Hetherington, May 2011. Figure 129: Woven ‘Africa’ Pattern, Dora Hetherington, April 2011. Figure 130: Image warping up for pockets and scarf on Swiss Arm Loom, Dora Hetherington, May 2011. Figure 131: Weaving for pockets and scarf on Swiss Arm Loom, Dora Hetherington, May 2011. Figure 132: Warping up ‘Africa’ Pattern using 2 beams, Dora Hetherington, May 2011. Figure 133: Image Loom Room in the Newbery Tower, Dora Hetherington, June 2011. Figure 134-142: Various Images from the Newbery Tower, Dora Hetherington, June 2011. Figure 143: Image Master’s Room in Skypark, Dora Hetherington, June 2011. Figure 144: Image of Swiss Arm Loom, Ready to weave scarves, Dora Hetherington, June 2011. Figure 145: Image of Weave Workshop at Skypark, Dora Hetherington, June 2011.

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Figure 146: Image of Scarves being washed in bath, Dora Hetherington, July 2011. Figure 147: Final 6 Woven Scarves, Dora Hetherington, July 2011. Figure 148: Image Warping Stakes, Skypark, Dora Hetherington, July 2011. Figure 149: Image Stretching ‘Africa’ Warp, Skypark, Dora Hetherington, July 2011. Figure 150: Image of Dressing Gown Toile, focusing on belt detail. Model: Dora Hetherington, Image: Dora Hetherington July 2011. Figure 161: Pyjama Top Pattern cut out with final fabric, to be sewn, Dora Hetherington, July 2011. Figure 162: Final Garment, Pyjama Bottoms, Dora Hetherington, July 2011. Figure 163: Final Garment, Boxers, Dora Hetherington, July 2011.

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Bibliography

Sherwood, James, The London Cut : Saville Row bespoke tailoring, Marsilio, Venice, 2007. Smith, Paul, You Can Find Inspiration In Everything*, Violette Editions, London, 2001. Walker, Richard, The Saville Row Story, Prion, London, 1988.

Websites Anon, (2011) An Example of Russian Constructivism <http://selfinterestandsympathy.files.wordpress. com/2010/02/057.jpg> (last date accessed 11.07.2011). Anon, (2011) < http://www.fairfieldyarns.co.uk/ index.htm> (date accessed 12.06.2011) Anon, (2011) <http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk> (last date accessed 11.07.2011). Anon, (2011) < http://handweaving.net/Home.aspx> Beggs of Scotland, (2011) < http://www. beggscotland.com/> (date accessed 19.04.2011) Emigre, (2011) <http://www.emigre.com/ EF.php?fid=124> (date accessed 17.06.2011). Emigre, (2011) <http://www.emigre.com/fontpage. php?PTarNR.html> (date accessed 17.06.2011).

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Emigre, (2011) <http://www.emigre.com/EF.php?fid=80> (date accessed 17.06.2011). Hand Weaving Studio, (2011) <http://www.handweavers.co.uk/ shop/Samples_Catalogues.html> (date accessed 23.05.2011) Linton Tweeds, (2011) < http://www.lintondirect.co.uk/about. cfm> (date accessed 15.06.2011) My Fonts, (2011) <http://new.myfonts.com/fonts/emigre/ tarzana/> (date accessed 17.06.2011). Texure Yarns, (2011) < http://www.texere.co.uk/> (date accessed 23.05.2011) Tom Ford, (2011) < http://www.tomford.com/#/en/thebrand/ video?id=1> (date accessed 23.06.2011) Uppingham Yarns, (2011) < http://www.wools.co.uk/> (date accessed 23.06.2011)

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WITH THANKS TO

BECA LIPSCOMBE JULIET DEARDEN JIMMY STEPHEN-CRAN HELEN McGILP CHANTAL BALMER FRANCES ROBERTSON SEAN BLACK LESLEY BLACK MICHAEL ALDRIDGE GWYNNE & DAVID HETHERINGTON

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Copyright Š Dora Hetherington July 2011 All Rights Reserved

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Design Process Portfolio 3  

Design Process Portfolio 3

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