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DORA YZERMAN HETHERINGTON M.DES FASHION AND TEXTILES 2010/11

DESIGN PROCESS PORTFOLIO (DPP) COMPONENT 2: EXPERIMENTATION AND PROGRESSION

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Contents Page

Introduction

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Conclusion

73

Elective

78

Figures

85

Bibliography

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Introduction

Design Process Portfolio 1: Origination and Investigation was my initial research and expolration into the design of pyjamas. I gathered market intelligence; historical fashion research; personal research; drawing and colour work; 2D/3D exploration; fabric/ silhouette experimentation. Design Process Portfolio 2: Experimentation and Progression is a continuation of my work from stage 1. This stage aims to explore the potential of mt textile samples to cover the body. The initial job was to look at my work from stage 1 and decide what shapes (from my designs) and colours (from my colourwraps) to combine and take forward. My research had informed me that pyjama fabric is usually very light-weight, something else I had to consider. Whatever I wove would have to be to the same light-weight standard. I am used to weaving with a fine cotton yarn but I felt I should try something even finer for this collection

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and so I opted to weave with a very fine silk, for the first time! The samples turned out particuarly beautiful, with a very sleek finish. In fact they are so fine I am not sure if I can weave a large enough amount to cover any of my garments! Together with weaving, we attend a pattern cutting class each thursday with Juliet Dearden. During this class I have learnt how to trace patterns from already exsisting garments; alter the shape; pin and cut the fabric accurately; sew up the garment; include all finishing touches, for example, button holes and pockets. Over the course of the weeks I have created my own set of pyjama toiles, these include, a full set of pyjamas; long shorts; boxer shorts; two nightshirts; and a dressing gown. My DPP2 is evidence of the experimentation of sampling and toiling as well as the progression from the previous stage which I have achieved so far.


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Friday 7th January 2011

Oh dear oh dear. Definitely left this entry far too late. Sorry! Bad Dora! So, what’s been happening? Well, I had an awesome Christmas in Callander and a grand New Year in Forres and Aviemore with Michael. It was perfect and so good to get away from Glasgow for a few weeks! I finished my DPP1 over the holidays- it’s currently in Hobs, out of my control, which is a relief! Wrote my essay for Glynn’s class the day before it was due in! Never done that before and hopefully never will again. Saying that, it actually wasn’t too bad! The stress wasn’t nearly as bad as I thought it would be. But still- I don’t want the pressure of doing something so last minute again!

Studio wise- went pyjama shopping with Michael (as Beca requested!), we found some simple pyjamas in M&S, quite plain. Very simple shape, which I will have to play about with. I’ve taken lots of photos with Michael modelling. I played about with different variations of the same garment. Different lengths of the trousers and the sleeves rolled up. Considered high waist; low waist, pinning the shirt for a more fitted look etc. Still need to annotate the photographs and generate a list of what I’d like to continue with. Maybe it’ll be to continue taking more photos of what’s working. I’m still loving rolled up trouser legs and sleeves. Having the collar up is also good! As is a hood! A hood looks good! Need to really work on that.

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There are so many things that I’m loving at the moment. • Long shorts. Maybe with rolled up legs. Waistband showing. • A good fitted shirt. Sleeves rolled up. • Fitted trousers. Slightly rolled up legs. • Onesie. None of this baggy nonsense you see around the place. Maybe an elasticated waist or just something which will define the waist. Rolled up sleeves! • Nightshirt. Cover all the nightwear bases! • Boxers. Need to think about this one! I don’t want anything too tight. I’d like comfort but not have too much on display! Do I want a t-shirt? That might be quite good. Casual. Maybe need to create another look. Id like the long shorts to remain on their own, bare chest.


figure 1:

Pyjamas model- Michael Aldridge photo- Dora Hetherington, 2011

figure 2:

Pyjamas model- Michael Aldridge photo- Dora Hetherington, 2011

figure 3:

Pyjamas model- Michael Aldridge photo- Dora Hetherington, 2011

figure 4:

Pyjamas model- Michael Aldridge photo- Dora Hetherington, 2011

figure 5:

Pyjamas model- Michael Aldridge photo- Dora Hetherington, 2011

figure 6:

Pyjamas model- Michael Aldridge photo- Dora Hetherington, 2011

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figure 7:

Pyjamas model- Michael Aldridge photo- Dora Hetherington, 2011

figure 8:

Pyjamas model- Michael Aldridge photo- Dora Hetherington, 2011

figure 9:

Pyjamas model- Michael Aldridge photo- Dora Hetherington, 2011

figure 10:

Pyjamas model- Michael Aldridge photo- Dora Hetherington, 2011

figure 11:

Pyjamas model- Michael Aldridge photo- Dora Hetherington, 2011

figure 12:

Pyjamas model- Michael Aldridge photo- Dora Hetherington, 2011

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Monday 10th January 2011

Group tutorial with Beca, Beth and Juliet went well! I always fret these things will go terribly! The plan is now to start sampling! This is really good news but it also means the start of a gruelling 8-9 months! Bring it on! After discussing things with the group it’s been decided that I should stick to the shape I already have (M&S pyjamas) and work with that. I’m pretty certain I’d like to make a pair of long shorts as part of my collection. I’d also like to include a hood in one of these garments, perhaps the onesie… Apparently Jimmy has quite a nightshirt collection, I should quiz him on this!

I should really start thinking about sampling and buying yarn and all that! This makes me a little nervous… Where to begin! I’ll worry about it in the morning! Anyway, review went super well! AND more importantly, I got my DPP1 back from Hobs today. All £117 of it. Thank goodness for the 40% student discount. Looks good though, I think I can safely say it is the most expensive book I own. It had better last years and years and years! So sampling, I need to think about the weight of the fabric. I worry that a 2/12’s cotton will be too thick. In fact I was working with a 2/16’s cotton last year- don’t really want to go any finer if I can avoid it.

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2/16’s gave a very nice finish. Will need to work out some peg plans as well. This is the good stuff! This is why I’m here. Absolutely feel more motivated about this weaving part! I’d like to get all (23) warps ready this week, all patterns sorted etc and be completely ready to go by Monday 17th! Then I can have a solid week of hardcore weave. That might work but it might be better if I can get a warp on by Wednesday. Have a really hardcore day tomorrow sorting everything out. That might be best then that way I’ll have this weekend! Bring it on I say!


figure 13:

Anon, (2010) Dolce and Gabbana, Milan Spring 2011 [online].

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Wednesday 12th January 2011

I have made and stretched a warp yesterday! So good to be back doing what I love best. I went home all happy and satisfied for the first time in a long while! Whilst at home I spent an hour and a half trying to figure out a double cloth triangle pattern. I think I’ve got it. Will have to put it into Pointcarre to double check. It felt so satisfying to figure it out! Got all my 360 threads pulled through and tied up this morning. All before lunch- feeling quite proud. I’m really aware 360 isn’t a lot but it’s a good starting point. Warp 1 samples will be 10”. I think for this first warp I’m just going to keep it simple and do relatively boring things just while I’m getting back into the way of things.

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figure 14:

Warp 1 Cotton, Dora Hetherington, January 2011

figure 15:

Warp 1 Cotton, Dora Hetherington, January 2011

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figure 16:

Warp 1 Cotton, Dora Hetherington, January 2011


Monday 24th January 2011

Oh dear, I’ve done it again and left this diary entry a little too late! BUT I’ve been mega productive. Weaving has been going well. My 1st warp was a 2/12’s white cotton, wove 2m very quickly. Have just been playing about, I don’t want to take the first few warps too seriously, I just want to concentrate on getting back into the way of things first. I’ve been trying to stick to the colours from my colour work, I need to be careful and not get distracted by lots of pretty colours! Our pattern cutting class is going well, just been making pattern pieces from the M&S pyjamas, taking it piece by piece.

Our term 1 hand in went well, wasn’t too stressful, I had everything in order, just needed to make it look pretty! I finished in good time- all ready to make the most of my birthday weekend. The Max Comfort workshop today was ace. Very insightful, he seems very down to earth and realistic about life! For example, ‘don’t work too hard, you’ll burn out’ and ‘look after number 1’. The notes he gave are very useful too (although I cant bring myself to read them yet!). It was a very intense day and I’m knackered!!

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figure 17:

Warp 2 Cotton, Dora Hetherington, January 2011

figure 18:

Warp 2 Cotton, Dora Hetherington, January 2011

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figure 19:

Warp 2 Cotton & wool, Dora Hetherington, January 2011


Thursday 27th January 2011

The pattern cutting is going well. Already made up a pyjama toile with Juliet, surprised at just how simple it was! Maybe simple is the wrong word, I suppose maybe technical… But anyway, it made perfect sense to me so it was all good! It didn’t take too long to make the pattern pieces and now during the course of the following week Beth will sew them up for me. I’ve been weaving away, bit rubbish that we haven’t had a chance to speak to Beca; I’m not really sure what direction to take my work. Almost feel like I’m weaving just for the sake of it. Not a very good thing!

I really don’t like that we are being treated the same as the 4th years. 1 week per loom is a joke. The 4th years have all 5 days to weave where as we have 2.5 days. Something isn’t fair there!! As the student rep I’ve voiced this concern, but will anything get done? Doubtful. Spoke to Beca; all is good although she thinks my fabric is too heavy- which I totally understand. I hope she understands that I’ve just been playing about and this isn’t the standard I intend to keep weaving at!! We have decided I need different weights of fabric.

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Super heavy; heavy (the 2/12’s cotton); medium lightweight; super lightweight. Beca wants me to sort of copy Aaron’s (Master student from a few years ago) style and go super lightweight with my fabrics. Should perhaps speak to Chantal and ask if she can remember what he used!


figure 20:

Pyjama Toile model: Gerrit Hetherington photo: Dora Hetherington 2011

figure 21:

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Pyjama Toile model: Gerrit Hetherington photo: Dora Hetherington 2011


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Saturday 29th January 2011

I spoke to Chantal; she hasn’t got a clue what weight of yarn Aaron used. She thought it was heavier than a 2/12’s cotton. I have some yarn samples so I will quiz Beca again to see if anything looks familiar.

Tuesday 1st February 2011

It’s all a bit weird not weaving this week; I’ve just been helping Beth with the toiles and finishing off some samples. Nothing too exciting happening!

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Wednesday 2nd February 2011

First super productive day in a while! Spent the entire day sitting in front of the computer tidying images for the jacquard next week. Another weave complaint… We are meant to be entitled to a whole day on the jacquard but now we’ve been told that we’re only allowed on for half a day at a time! HALF A DAY! That’s no time to get all the samples done. Really not enjoying being treated as a 4th year again. As Master students we really should have some priority over them.

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figure 22:

Jacquard TIF Dora Hetherington, February 2011

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Tuesday 8th February 2011

What is the point in investing in a jacquard loom if it’s not going to work! Seriously, that thing is a joke.

FRUSTRATION FRUSTRATION At least my images are still viewable through all the floats and what not. I think I’ll just try out as many of my designs on the AVL computer loom as I can, see if I can salvage anything! I really don’t think I’ll want to use the jacquard at all this year, there doesn’t seem to be any way that machine will ever weave perfectly. It never has and never will!!

Thursday’s pattern cutting, I need to remember to sew on buttons and put in buttonholes to the shirt and trouser toiles. I have bought a dressing gown so will spend the next couple of weeks trying to recreate it! I also aim to make up the boxers and shorts this week. All is going well otherwise, a relaxing week and Friday is a holiday! Yippee! Also I was convinced today was Wednesday so I feel like I’ve gained a day!!

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figure 23:

warp 3 cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

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figure 24:

misc. Dora Hetherington, February 2011

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Wednesday 9th February 2011

It’s Wednesday the 9th of February and I’m on a high. We had our DPP1 feedback session with Helen and Beca yesterday. Overall I think it went quite well. Having seen everyone’s DPP’s and discussing them I think I now know how to better structure mine. ALSO- how to write mine! I think I had been writing too much what I was feeling rather than what I was doing or thinking about where my work was going. New notepad and pen= New start! Spent this morning weaving ‘danish medallions’, which is really just for my technical folder at the moment. It is interesting that you can get so many patterns and variations just by changing a tension here or yarn quality there! I felt like I had achieved something this morning! Today we received feedback from Beca on our grades.

I’ve come to terms with my C1. I think it is a good starting point for Stage 1 seeing as everyone is new and I’m not used to working this way just yet! Like I said to Beca, my grade can only improve! Beca was so positive and gave me so much praise- I really wasn’t expecting that. It was really nice. I did go into the meeting all smiles and cheery. I didn’t get any criticism!! We just went over each subheading, had a good little chat and talked about Stage 2, how I am now in my elementthis is where I get enthusiastic! Beca also commended me on my speaking at yesterdays DPP1 feedback session. Was. Not. Expecting. That!! Feeling quite chuffed with myself. Quite proud really. I am nowhere near as nervous as I was a few years ago. Page

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So much so that I now don’t tend to over plan what I want to say. I wing it a lot of the time, which I’m finding, works for me! Never thought I would be one of those people! A very good morning all round! This afternoon, as a class (almost, well, half a class) we went to see Beca’s exhibition on Stockwell Street. I thought it was lovely how the venue was just a disused shop. Good source of recycling there!! The exhibition itself was beautiful. A very spacious venue and everything was spaced to give maximum viewing potential. It wasn’t spaced in a way that made it look pretentious or anything like that! It was also very interesting to see what our tutor does outside of GSA! It gave us an insight into the kind of person that she is and what interests her.


figure 25:

Danish Medallions Cotton & wool, Dora Hetherington 2011

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figure 26:

Danish Medallions Cotton & wool, Dora Hetherington 2011

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Danish Medallions Cotton & wool, Dora Hetherington 2011


figure 28:

Nightshirst Toile Dora Hetherington, February 2011 figure 29:

figure 32: figure 31:

Nightshirst Toile Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Pyjama Trouser Toile Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Pyjama Trouser Toile Dora Hetherington, February 2011

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figure 30:

figure 33:

Pocket Detail Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Pyjama Trouser Toile Dora Hetherington, February 2011


Thursday 10th February 2011

Busy busy day! Spoke to Juliet first thing this morning and then proceeded to create a list of things to do today! • Put a notch in trouser template. • Unpick placket in nightshirt. • Perfect placket for nightshirt! • Pockets –width 12cm, height 14cm, 1cm seam allowance, 4cm hem. Pocket on left! • Talk to Fiona about buttons. • Start tracing off dressing gown. • Facing for nightshirts. For the final pyjama top and nightshirt I need to increase the facing to make it look more professional. (Extend the facing up to the collar seam).

Todays plan is to get my long shorts and boxers pattern pieces done and to start my dressing gown pattern. If I have the time I should start sewing the pockets onto the shirts! So then next week sometime I will go on a mega calico spree and cut and sort everything out ready to be sewn up. But DISASTER has struck! There is no calico in the building. Worst of all, there is no pattern paper. WHAT ARE WE TO DO! I am at a point where I can’t continue until I have paper. Not impressed… Its now just past 2pm- we have 2 hours remaining with Juliet. Still no paper.

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I’m at the stage now where I I’m thinking even if the pattern paper were to appear, 2 hours wouldn’t be enough time to create my dressing gown templateand I HATE to start things knowing I cant reach a finishing point that I’m happy with by the end of the day. At least today hasn’t completely gone to wasteI have got my long shorts all cut out and ready to be sewn. All of my pockets are cut and ready to be sewn and hopefully by the end of the day I’ll have a perfected nightshirt!!


THIS IS SO FRUSTRATING. What’s the point?! I can’t even stay late because I’m going to my parents and need to catch the 1718 train at the latest! Maybe I should go home early and start working out warp and weft patterns for next week. I have taken photographs of all my colour wraps so I know exactly what colours and proportions I’m working with. Its 3.10pm and paper has arrived! Bugger off. Its no use now- there is no way I can create a dressing gown template- Juliet is only here for another 50minutes and there is 10 of us who have to share that time! I suppose it is not all lost, I have put the facing on the nightshirt and perfected the placket. Page

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I’ve had a splitting headache all day and this lack of paper and waiting around isn’t helping!! I’m tired. I don’t like waiting. I want to go home. I had the thought earlier that I would like to look at edging my fabric samples rather than just cutting them straight and relying on the tape to stop them fraying. I would still like the sleeves and trouser legs of my garments to be rolled up and so the edges wouldn’t be seen but it would be a nice detail to know that they are finished to a very high standard.


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Saturday 12th February 2011

So today Michael and I went to the travel agents as Beca had said to take a 2 weeks holiday at Easter! To cut a long story short…

WE’RE GOING TO INDIA! That’s the plan anyway… we still need to book everything and plan it all!

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Monday 14th February 2011

I came into uni early this morning to figure out this triangular double cloth pattern that has had me stumped for a while! I didn’t sleep very well for thinking about it. I think I’ve done it… 8 sections of 1,3,2,4 sequencing, pulled through in a triangular setup! I will warp up with 2 colours, beige and khaki and pull them through in blocks of 16 threads! Simple!

figure 34:

log entry Dora Hetherington, February 2011

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figure 35:

Orange yarn Texure Yarns, Dora Hetherington February 2011

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Tuesday 15th February 2011

Slept like a baby last night! Having a clear head is so good, I had the best nights sleep in perhaps months! My mission for the day is to get all warped up and ready to go… So far so good. Its about 4pm, I’ve made good time! I’m too nervous to weave anything today for fear of it being wrong! (Besides, my head is too mush to work out any double cloth patterns!) I will leave it for tomorrow…

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I’m a little annoyed my yarn keeps snapping! My double sticks have a splinter and are just being plain difficult!! These are my first snapped threads as an MDes student! I’ve done well! I think I may have found some yarn that Beca approves of. ‘King Penguin’ cotton from Texure Yarns. It’s super soft!


INDIA INDIA INDIA INDIA INDIA

Wednesday 16th February 2011

Beautiful textiles here I come! Our flights are now officially booked! 20th March- 4th April 2011. The guy in the Flight Centre was so nice and helpfulas was my lovely father who came through all the way from Callander to pay for it all! Now off to the doctors for some vaccinations! I did a little weaving this morning, just to make sure I had my patterns correct! And they work! Hurrah!

It’s such a nice feeling I get every time my weave structures (double cloth specifically) work out to plan. BUT I’ve warped up slightly wrong! I stupidly didn’t realise the blocks I had warped up in would effect the pattern! OF COURSE THEY WOULD!! But at least now I am back in the game and everything double cloth is making sense once again! Id totally nail it if I was to warp up again!! So so chuffed! Big smiles!

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figure 36:

log entry Dora Hetherington, February 2011

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figure 37:

weave notes Dora Hetherington, February 2011

figure 38:

weave notes Dora Hetherington, February 2011

figure 39:

weave notes Dora Hetherington, February 2011


Thursday 17th February 2011

Had another awesome sleep (this is important info!). I think my mind is at rest knowing I’m definitely going to India- visa permitting! Flights are booked and need to go back to the doctors on Monday to get me some hepatitis A and typhoid! Thinking about my pattern, because its menswear, perhaps a more block like triangle pattern works a bit better. I think this maybe my first ‘happy mistake’! It’s not a perfect shape; it’s a bit more graphic which I think will work better for menswear. This collection is totally not turning out the way I thought it wouldIT’S BETTER!

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So we’re back to pattern cutting today. I’m trying to figure out my dressing gown pattern and it’s turning into a bit of a nightmare. This collar is just going in all sorts of crazy directions! Can’t keep it down! Had to get Henry (my mannequin) to assist me today!! It’s reading week so I suppose it’s okay that things are going slowly. I’m about half way through the dressing gown; Juliet has gone to look at Skypark so I am giving up pattern cutting for the day in favour of weaving.


figure 40:

warp 3 cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

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Friday 18th February 2011

I have been weaving with a 2/16’s cotton warp and cotton/silk/wool weft (depending on the sample). Best warp yet I think, getting good block shapes. Looking forward to cutting up the sample and washing them.

I LOVE DOUBLE CLOTH.

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figure 41:

warp 3 cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

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figure 42:

warp 3 cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

warp 3 cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

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figure 43:

warp 3 cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

warp 3 cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011


Monday 21st February 2011

It’s been decided that I’m not going to go into uni today! I’ve just had my hepatitis A vaccination and I have rubbish cold. They are not complimenting one another! So I am going to go back to my flat, put the heating, pyjamas and kettle on! I have another warp to work out and some reading to do.

Loom 6. 24 Shafts. Straight draw. EPI= 30 Width=10” Grey White Dark Red White Blush Red Dark Red Blush

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2.5cm 0.5cm 1cm 1cm 0.5cm 0.5cm 2.5cm 1.5cm

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figure 46:

Colour Wrap Dora Hetherington, October 2010

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Thursday 24th February 2011

Holy crap- where is time going. This isn’t on! I’ve been ill but have been trying to power through. I got warped up in record time on Tuesday. Exactly 3 hours to stretch my warp and pull all the threads through the heddles and reed! That’s pretty good going for 304 threads. In my ill state I was going to give myself all day to do it…

Goodness knows what I wrote but it felt good to have something written down instead of floating about in my head. I had been thinking about this for weeks and weeks and weeks.

Yesterday I happened to be speaking to Ingrid who mentioned the Deutche Bank. Turns out I had missed an email reminding us about the deadline to get our business proposals in. I could have cried. In fact I came very close. It had to be in for yesterday so I emailed to say it would be late, then rushed home and drafted something and got it sent off.

Trying to get some more weaving on the go but I feel far too exhausted right now. I already know tomorrow is going to be a late one, probably even Saturday too. Boo hoo!

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Pattern cutting with Juliet today, went well. I have all my pieces cut out for my men’s dressing gown! Just waiting to see it all sewn up!


figure 47:

warp 4 Cotton, Dora Hetherington February 2011

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Friday 25th February 2011

India visa is in! At bloody last! That whole process of figuring it all out ate up so much time. It was like a test, “how badly do you want to visit India?” So, phew, glad that’s over. I had a little scare last night, was looking through my Filofax and apparently we have 2 weeks of sampling left. This is far too scary to comprehend right now. Must speak to Beca about this, I’m not sure it’s correct. Did a little more weaving! My sample just looks like a nice red tablecloth! Not enjoying this warp very much- not sure that imitating my colour wraps works as a warp for me. Maybe if I reduce the colours and repeat them? Next warp?

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figure 48:

warp 4 Cotton, Dora Hetherington February 2011

figure 50:

figure 49:

warp 4 Cotton, Dora Hetherington February 2011

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warp 4 Cotton, Dora Hetherington February 2011


Monday 28th February 2011

Finished last weeks warp on Saturday. Not too thrilled about it, it looks a bit tablecloth like! I usually feel a bit more positive when I see my samples all washed and trimmed nicely. Need to decide what warp to put on next‌ My meeting with Beca today went very well. I’ve to just continue sampling. We stop sampling on the 17th but then we choose which fabrics to take through to the next stage and work on them! Phew!

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figure 51:

Colour Wrap Dora Hetherington, October 2010

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Tuesday 1st March 2011

For my new warp I have decided to go with another colour wrap. Green; beige/ orange; yellow/orange; black; black/purple; purple; light blue; black; green; brown. It looks awesome, almost African inspired in a way! It is a 2/16’s cotton warp so should be super soft once washed! Hopefully a little bit of fabric softener will do the trick nicely. Thinking about my samples, I would like to mirror the colour wrap in the weft. Mirror the warp and weft. Should get a bit of a colourful checker effect!

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Exciting news! Lucy phoned me this morning to tell me to contact Alan Moore of TEN30! So I did, we got chatting and after a few emails we have decided to collaborate! He has been nominated for Scottish New Designer of the year by the Scottish Variety Club, and IM MAKING THE FABRIC FOR HIS OUTFIT! This is so exciting for me. Last year in 4th year, I would have loved to have had the time and money to have woven fabric and then have it tailored into a suit! I weave, Alan tailors and we both get photographs for our portfolios! AND, he wears my design on the night! Very excited.


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Wednesday 2nd March 2011

It is confirmed, definitely collaborating with Alan Moore! I had to go home yesterday and check I still had pattern and enough yarn! I even went to the yarn store and stocked up on extras just in case! I wove my entire warp today, bloomin’ knackered now! I took a dinner break, which is good for me, but it totally throws me when I’m in the zone, I could have finished quite a bit sooner! I wove the mirror warp design and it looks quite nice! After that I just simply moved onto different colour ways. There are aspects of the colour ways that I really like, for example the sections of yellow/beige and orange. They seem to be working very well together; perhaps I will make another warp for just this. figure 52:

warp 5 Cotton, Dora Hetherington February 2011

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figure 53:

warp 5 Cotton, Dora Hetherington February 2011

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Thursday 3rd March 2011

figure 54:

I have spoken to Juliet and decided instead of making an adult baby grow today I should concentrate on perfecting each toile for the review on the 17th! So today I’ve been working on buttonholes… now I know this sounds simple in all meanings of the word but it’s really satisfying!! I’ve sewn them in every garment, trousers; shorts; boxers; pyjama shirt and my nightshirts!

Button Detail Dora Hetherington February 2011

I’ve got my yarn ready for weaving at the weekend; I’m good to go!

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figure 55:

Nightshirt Toile model: Gerrit Hetherington photo: Dora Hetherington 2011

figure 56:

Nightshirt Toile model: Gerrit Hetherington photo: Dora Hetherington 2011

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figure 57:

Nightshirt Toile model: Gerrit Hetherington photo: Dora Hetherington 2011


figure 58:

Dressing Gown Toile model: Dora Hetherington photo: Dora Hetherington 2011

figure 59:

Dressing Gown Toile model: Dora Hetherington photo: Dora Hetherington 2011

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figure 60:

Dressing Gown Toile model: Dora Hetherington photo: Dora Hetherington 2011


figure 61:

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log entry Dora Hetherington, March 2011


figure 62:

Threads and Heddles Dora Hetherington, March 2011

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Saturday 5th March 2011

Sunday 6th March 2011

Finished pulling all the threads through the reed. Job done. Peg plan pegged! I peg planned the wrong lags first time- bloody typical! Pirns wound. Job done!

Walked to uni at 8.30am for the second day running, I do very much enjoy being up this early and walking about. It’s very tranquil.

READY TO WEAVE!

Wove until 6pm. Finished. Cut off the fabric and had a cry. Going home.

Tonight I stayed until 7pm, the fabric is now wound around the front beam! Well done Dora, for a few hours weaving that’s fantastic! Very tired, going home for a munch and sleep!

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figure 63:

Weaving Cloth Dora Hetherington, March 2011

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Weaving Cloth Dora Hetherington, March 2011


Monday 7th March 2011

Thank goodness for Michael keeping me right. I was feeing very down yesterday. So some reason I felt very disappointed with the fabric I had woven for Alan. The fabric wasn’t as dense as my 4th year sample and so I thought it wasn’t good enough. Michael made me see the error in my thinking! I’m now pretty chuffed! I washed and pressed the fabric ready to go and meet Alan. He was so chuffed which in turn has made me feel very very happy and proud again. Now I can’t wait to see the final thing!

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figure 65:

Woven Cloth Dora Hetherington, March 2011

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Tuesday 8th March 2011

If Beca wants smooth and silky. Beca will get smooth and silky. I’m biting the bullet and weaving a double cloth with super fine silk!! I think I must be mad! I can only do a 5” sample because realistically I can’t pull through more than 600 threads for a sample!! So I suppose more realistically I couldn’t ever weave a final fabric out of this stuff! It would have more ends per inch than the jacquard!! My thinking for the silk is that it could be a pocket detail on the shirts or even a cravat!

I would like to tone down my colour palette a little so it is a bit more grey and tonal. Since doing that weaving for Alan it has made me realise how enthusiastic I am about my 4th year collection and it feels like this year I’m not really feeling it as much, I would really like to incorporate certain aspects of my 4th year work into my MDes project. I like that Beca sees my pyjamas as more of day wear rather than sleepwear. I feel more enthusiastic about my work when I think of it like this.

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figure 66:

Warp 6 Silk, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

figure 69:

Warp 6 Silk & cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

figure 67:

figure 70:

Warp 6 Silk, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Warp 6 Silk & cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

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figure 68:

figure 71:

Warp 6 Silk, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Warp 6 Silk & cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011


Wednesday 9th March 2011

Feeling absolutely shattered again today but I’ve got to hang on until 3pm to go to a decant meeting with Michael White. I’m using Pointcarre computer software to weave my silk, it’s taking some getting used to but I’m learning quickly. The samples are turning out beautifully; they’re very fine and very perfect! I’m very pleased; everyone who walks past is actually complimenting it!

I CAN’T BELIEVE HOW FINE THIS IS!

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figure 72:

figure 75:

Warp 6 Silk & cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Warp 6 Silk & cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

figure 73:

figure 76:

Warp 6 Silk & cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Warp 6 Silk & cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

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figure 74:

figure 77:

Warp 6 Silk, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Warp 6 Silk & cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011


Thursday 10th March 2011

Juliet is off ill so I’m going to continue weaving. I’m still pretty ill myself so would like to get back home as soon as possible. At the moment I’m just weaving different colour ways in a mixture of mercerised cotton and silk. I’m trying to keep things as fine as possible! I will work on my toiles and finishing my fabrics next week before our tutorials.

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figure 78:

figure 81:

Warp 6 Silk & cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Warp 6 Silk & cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

figure 79:

figure 82:

Warp 6 Silk, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Warp 6 Silk & cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

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figure 80:

figure 83:

Warp 6 Silk & cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Warp 6 Silk & cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011


figure 86: figure 84:

Pyjama Toile model: Israel Para-Zanabria photo: Dora Hetherington, March 2011

figure 85:

Pyjama Toile model: Unknown photo: Dora Hetherington, March 2011

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Dressing Gown Toile model: Unknown photo: Dora Hetherington, March 2011


Conclusion

Throughout this whole course I have envisioned my pyjama collection to be worn by men, however after having my review with Beca and Juliet and seeing my garments modelled on a female I have come to the conclusion I will have both men and women model my garments. I couldn’t help but feel my garments fitted the female model better. I have said from the start that I would keep women in mind as we are known to steal our partners clothes from time to time so including women in my final collection is quite an easy decision. I had very positive feedback from my review. Garment wise, my pyjamas and nightshirts are working nicely. I need to work on my dressing gown toile and really get that perfected by changing the collar and adding at least 55cm in length! Also I should consider including a smoking jacket into my collection- which I am quite excited about already! With regards to the feedback on my samples, all good, they have been

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edited down and then edited again into ‘collections’ for the nightshirt; pyjamas; and dressing gown. I would like different weave patterns for the tops and bottoms of my pyjamas, so they still go together but the pattern isn’t so overwhelming that it’s garish. I’d also like to implement this for the pocket details. I’d again like them to be different from the overall pyjama pattern. With regards to weaving with the silk, as much as I would love to see an entire garment kitted out with it, realistically I don’t think that is visible. There are just too many ends per inch to contend with. I would be warping up for days, the yarn is so fine that with a loom that can weave the width I would need, it would be a constant battle to stop the threads snapping, whereas with the new swissarm loom this isn’t an issue as the loom is incredibly smooth once in use. However there is a limit to how wide I can weave. Oh the dilemma!...


figure 87:

India Dora Hetherington, March 2011

figure 88:

figure 89:

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India Dora Hetherington, March 2011

India Dora Hetherington, March 2011


India Delhi - Jaipur - Pushkar - Ranthambon - Agra - Varanasi - Delhi

We had the most amazing time in India. Not exactly a relaxing holiday but it was just an absolutly incredible place to be for 2 weeks, I’m not sure we could have been there any longer though! We got ill pretty quickly and becuase we were off to so many differnt places we never gave our bodies a chance to recover! I lost half a stone and Michael lost more! But despite that, it was epic- we saw all the sights, did all the touristy things, and I don’t think we got ripped off too badly! It was important to me to visit lots of textile

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places and take as many photos of the art, colours, fabric, EVERYTHING! I can quite proudly say I have an extensive library of images from where we visited! On our second day we visited a textile factory in Jaipur and came away with a lot of beautiful silk handwoven farics traditional to that area. We bargined to a whole new level that day!! (Bargining for everything is V. daunting!!). For what we wanted we were quoted Rs.13,500. (£186.50). We left having paid Rs.5,500. (£76). We felt like pros!!


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Elective


Thursday 24th February 2011

Frances does love to make us talk! Oh gosh! Initial thoughts are that the class seems to be interesting enough, lots of reading to keep us busy!! Seriously. What the crap is this all about. I’ve been reading the handouts; it seems to be all about how men are scared of women because we represent castration. But written in some deep insightful way. How the hell is reading this nonsense enriching my life? I really don’t understand how this course is going to benefit me in any way. There are so many other things I could be spending my time with on a Friday afternoon than sitting through that awful class. And to give us reading to do in between is just outrageous. I really feel that we do enough research and writing with

the Fashion and Textiles course. I don’t understand why we need to take an elective too.

WHY WHY WHY???

It feels like a ‘filler’ and as if someone somewhere is having a right laugh. Not cool. I was reading the text last night and

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just thinking to myself “what the crap?! Why would someone take the time to write such bullshit?! Tomorrow we have to present a 10minute discussion on our interpretation of the text. FANFRICKINGTASTIC. If this had all been written in the course information I really doubt I could have signed up for it. I would have taken that nice drawing class instead! It’s going to be an interesting evening for me trying to write some nonsense about nothing in particular. And what’s even better is that it’s not even getting graded!! Utterly utterly pointless. I know I’m not the only one who feels like this, this is the general consensus! I’m tired and have the rage; it’s not the best combination.


I LOVE SURPRISING MYSELF. Friday 11th March 2011

Friday 25th February 2011

So after stressing for so long about this text and presentation… I rocked! (Still in class writing this). I came up with some interesting images and good points.

in shock that I enjoyed it! I held an audience for 20minutes! Ha! Was previously struggling when aiming for 5! I didn’t need my notes for the most part; I let my head do the talking.

I’m on such a high! I even enjoyed it! And that’s not like me what so ever! I enjoyed speaking in front of people!!! I liked that people were listening to me. I liked it!! Today has actually been quite a laugh. Totally

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Class was fun- lots of embarrassing stories! I should probably be thinking more deeply about this class. Need to think about embarrassment and shame relating to my work. I’m not super private about things; I’m quite the opposite really. Ill quite happily criticise my own work. I find it a bit bizarre when there is something I hate and Beca loves it!


figure 90:

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log entry Dora Hetherington, March 2011


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Figures

List of Figure Captions Figure 1:

Pyjamas, Model: Michael Aldridge, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

Figure 2:

Pyjamas, Model: Michael Aldridge, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

Figure 3:

Pyjamas, Model: Michael Aldridge, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

Figure 4:

Pyjamas, Model: Michael Aldridge, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

Figure 5:

Pyjamas, Model: Michael Aldridge, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

Figure 6:

Pyjamas, Model: Michael Aldridge, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

Figure 7:

Pyjamas, Model: Michael Aldridge, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

Figure 8:

Pyjamas, Model: Michael Aldridge, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

Figure 9:

Pyjamas, Model: Michael Aldridge, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

Figure 10:

Pyjamas, Model: Michael Aldridge, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011 Page

85


Figure 11:

Pyjamas, Model: Michael Aldridge, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

Figure 12: Figure 13:

Pyjamas, Model: Michael Aldridge, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

Figure 14:

Warp 1, Cotton, Dora Hetherington, January 2011

Anon, (2010) Dolce and Gabbana, Milan Spring 2011 [online]. London: CondeNetUKLimited. Available from: http://www.gq- magazine.co.uk/style/catwalk-fashion-shows/SS2011/Mens/ milan?Dolce_Gabbana/full-length-photos (date accessed 28/09/2010).

Figure 15: Warp 1, Cotton, Dora Hetherington, January 2011 Figure 16:

Warp 1, Cotton, Dora Hetherington, January 2011

Figure 17:

Warp 2, Cotton, Dora Hetherington, January 2011

Figure 18:

Warp 2, Cotton, Dora Hetherington, January 2011

Figure 19:

Warp 2, Cotton & Wool, Dora Hetherington, January 2011

Figure 20:

Pyjama Toile, Model: Gerrit Hetherington, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

Figure 21:

Pyjama Toile, Model: Gerrit Hetherington, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

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Figure 22:

Jacquard TIF, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 23:

Warp 3, Cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 24:

misc., Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 25:

Danish Medallions, Cotton & Wool, Dora Hetherington 2011

Figure 26:

Danish Medallions, Cotton & Wool, Dora Hetherington 2011

Figure 27:

Danish Medallions, Cotton & Wool, Dora Hetherington 2011

Figure 28:

Nightshirt Toile, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 29:

Nightshirt Toile, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 30:

Pocket Detail, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 31:

Pyjama Trouser Toile, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 32:

Pyjama Trouser Toile, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 33:

Pyjama Trouser Toile, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 34:

Log Entry, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 35:

Orange Yarn, Texure Yarns, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 36:

Log Entry, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

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Figure 37:

Weave Notes, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 38:

Weave Notes, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 39:

Weave Notes, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 40:

Warp 3, Cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 41:

Warp 3, Cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 42:

Warp 3, Cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 43:

Warp 3, Cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 44:

Warp 3, Cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 45:

Warp 3, Cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 46:

Colour Wrap, Dora Hetherington, October 2010

Figure 47:

Warp 4, Cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 48:

Warp 4, Cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 49:

Warp 4, Cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 50:

Warp 4, Cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 51:

Colour Wrap, Dora Hetherington, October 2010

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Figure 52:

Warp 5, Cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 53:

Warp 5, Cotton, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 54:

Button Detail, Dora Hetherington, February 2011

Figure 55:

Nightshirt Toile, Model: Gerrit Hetherington, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

Figure 56:

Nightshirt Toile, Model: Gerrit Hetherington, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

Figure 57:

Nightshirt Toile, Model: Gerrit Hetherington, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

Figure 58:

Dressing Gown Toile, Model: Dora Hetherington, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

Figure 59:

Dressing Gown Toile, Model: Dora Hetherington, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

Figure 60:

Dressing Gown Toile, Model: Dora Hetherington, Photo: Dora Hetherington, 2011

Figure 61:

Log Entry, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 62:

Threads and Heddles, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 63:

Weaving Cloth, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

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Figure 64:

Weaving Cloth, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 65:

Woven Cloth, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 66:

Warp 6, Silk, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 67:

Warp 6, Silk, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 68:

Warp 6, Silk, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 69:

Warp 6, Silk & Cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 70:

Warp 6, Silk & Cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 71:

Warp 6, Silk & Cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 72:

Warp 6, Silk & Cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 73:

Warp 6, Silk & Cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 74:

Warp 6, Silk, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 75:

Warp 6, Silk & Cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 76:

Warp 6, Silk & Cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 77:

Warp 6, Silk & Cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 78:

Warp 6, Silk & Cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

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Figure 79:

Warp 6, Silk, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 80:

Warp 6, Silk & Cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 81:

Warp 6, Silk & Cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 82:

Warp 6, Silk & Cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 83:

Warp 6, Silk & Cotton, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 84:

Pyjama Toile, Model: Israel Para-Zanabria, Photo: Dora Hetherington 2011

Figure 85:

Pyjama Toile, Model: Unknown, Photo: Dora Hetherington 2011

Figure 86:

Dressing Gown Toile, Model: Unknown, Photo: Dora Hetherington 2011

Figure 87:

India, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 88:

India, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 89:

India, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

Figure 90:

Log Entry, Dora Hetherington, March 2011

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Bibliography

Hayward, Catherine; Dunn, Bill, Man about town : [the changing image of the modern male], Hamlyn, London 2001. Malossi, Giannino, Material Man, masculinity, sex, style, Abrams, Harry N. (US) 2000. McDowell, Collin, The Man of fashion : peacock males and perfect gentlemen, Thames and Hudson, London, 1997. Sherwood, James, The London Cut : Saville Row bespoke tailoring, Marsilio, Venice, 2007. Websites Anon, (2010) Dolce and Gabbana, Milan Spring 2011[online]. London: CondĂŠNetUK Limited. Available from: <http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/catwalkfashion-shows/SS2011/Mens/milan/Dolce_and_ Gabbana/full-length-photos> (date accessed 28/09/2010). Anon, (2010) Nightshirts[online]. Kent. Available from: <http://www.pukkapyjamas.co.uk/acatalog/Nightshirts. html> (date accessed 4/10/2010). Anon, (2010) Nightwear[online]. Swansea. Available from: <http://www.toast.co.uk/category/ men+nightwear/nightwear.htm> (date accessed 4/10/2010).

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Anon, (2010) Traditional Style Nightshirts for Men [online]. Co Durham. Available from: <http://www.hextol.co.uk/buy-online/nightshirts/mensnightshirts.htm> (date accessed 4/10/2010). Anon, (2010) BODAS[online]. London. Available from: <http://cache.neta-porter.com/images/products/103773/103773_in.1.jpg> (date accessed 4/10/2010). McManus, Darragh, (2010) Real-life tragedies for real-life cash [online]. London. Available from: <http://www.guardian.co.uk/books/ booksblog/2010/aug/12/books-real-life-tragedies> (date accessed 4/10/2010).

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Copyright Š Dora Hetherington April 2011 All Rights Reserved

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Design Process Portfolio 2  

Design Process Portfolio 2

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