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C limbs and Expeditions: Greenl and


to the summit. On the second a few meters required aid (A1), as did a few meters on the fourth (A2). Otherwise we climbed the route free in 15 pitches from the head of the couloir. The altitude was 1,555m; we spent an hour on top soaking up the view before heading back down. We had difficulties with rope jams on the lower rappels but made it back to the tent that night and off the mountain next day. There are many great peaks in this area, and I have to go back. This trip was spontaneous, and our desires outran our abilities. Our main mistake was going too early. In July and August you do not have to plow deep tracks in the snow, and parties can be delivered to a point not far from our base camp by boat. We named our route Dance on Tiptoes (915m, 1,210m of climbing, VI 6c A2).

Alexander Ruchkin, Russia Watkins Mountains, Mt. Augustine Courtauld (ca 3,150m). In the second half of May, a Tangent expedition led by Ian Barker and Mark Basey-Fisher (U.K.), with Warren Allen, Julian Cooper, Mark Morrison, Sebastian Sloane (all U.K.), Andrey Pogudin (Russia), and I made the first ascent of a peak in the Gunnbjornsfjeld group. First, though, from our base camp at 68°54.319' N, 29°43.5' W, we made the year’s first ascent of the highest mountain in the Arctic, Gunnbjornsfjeld (Hvitserk, 3,694m). The usual route following the southwest ridge does not keep to the crest throughout, but skirts a rocky section by climbing out left on the west face. However, inclement weather had made these slopes dangerous, and we were forced to climb on or close to the crest (ca 50°). Pogudin and I became the first Russians to summit Gunnbjornsfjeld. Initially we also planned to attempt the second and third highest summits, Dome (3,683m) and Cone (3,669m), but we instead became interested in a 3,000+m summit

Panorama southeast to south from base camp. (A) Peak 3,175m (FA 1998). (B) Augustine Courtauld (FA 2011). (C) Peak Cappuccino (3,266m: FA 1998). (D) Deception Dome (3,526m: FA 1988). There is a minor top (hidden) between (B) and (C). Maxim Bouev

Looking north through to east over the Woolley Glacier from the summit of Augustine Courtauld. Fine pyramid on the left is Peak 3,175m, climbed in 1998 by Hans Christian Florian (Denmark) and an Austrian team. Maxim Bouev

Panorama of the highest peaks in the Arctic, seen from advanced base camp below Mt Augustine Courtauld. (A) Peak 3,369m. (B) Dome (3,683m: FA 1988). (C) Cone (3,669m: FA 1988). (D) Peak ca 3,450m (climbed). (E) Peak Osterrike (ca 3,288m: FA 1998). (F) Gunnbjornsfjeld (3,694m: FA 1935: leftskyline is southwest ridge). (G) U-Turn (3,307m: FA 1999). Maxime Bouev

American Alpine Journal 2012  

The 2012 edition of the American Alpine Journal from the American Alpine Club

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