ISSUE 17, SPRING/SUMMER 2010 PRINTED IN THE NETHERLANDS PRICE NL €8,95
INOUE BROTHERS London based Inoue Brothers are not only as friendly as they appear, they make some very fine knitwear too.
SHUBANKAR RAY A chemist turned artist turned marketeer, Ray, was born in an Indian communist family, and is now responsible for the brand communications of G-Star RAW. Never predictable.
ROLLER DERBY What happens when you mix a DJ, cheap booze, a famous drag queen, a rowdy audience and a bunch of sexy girls on roller skates with a penchant for violence? A great night out at the Montreal Roller Derby.
NEW DEAL An homage to the creative and liberal face of Holland.
FROM LODZ TO WARSAW Lodz and Warsaw: only 2.5 hours from each other.,two different worlds. Lodz, the art city with the movie penchant, and Warsaw, ‘where everything is possible.’ are both booming.
DON’T WATCH THAT The story of two London photographers who’ve been documenting grime from the beginning and who became founders of an online television channel. CODE documents a tiny part of their world.
BARBARA COUTINHO One of the most exciting design museums in the world is located in Lisboa, Portugal. With it being the stage for the Portuguese Fashion Week,, it was time to have a chat with 38-year-old museum director Barbara Coutinho.
CUBIC ZIRKONIA ”Our music makes the audience horny.” What more can we say?
NOKO A denim label that is not allowed to be called denim label. Meet Noko from Sweden and denim made in North Korea.
Plus some of the finest running gear for this season
FROM BERLIN WITH LUV Berlin became home for creatives in self chosen exile worldwide. CODE reports on one of them, the extraordinary Mz. Sunday Luv.
K-SWISS Simply a californian sports company.
ORIGINALS: 10 CITIES, 10 PEOPLE, 10 ORIGINALS 10 photographers curate 10 true originals. A collaboration with Adidas.
COLORBLIND Almost 10% of men are color blind. How does the world look through their eyes?
INTO THE LIGHT The sunglasses special. With among others…more than 20 special sunglasses.
STORED What’s in store? Some of the best shops in the world.
THE DARK SIDE Charlie Dark and the Cult of Running
SNEAKERS The coolest sneakers of this season selected by Raju ‘Ilovesneakerz’ Doerga.
CODE BRANDS Our favorite brands of the moment.
CLOSE UP AND PRIVATE A first visit to Sergei Sviatchenko’s offbeat blog Close Up & Private is a strangely comforting experience. Scrolling trough the many close-ups you get a sense of nostalgia and wonder.
After the most convincing winter in ages, spring has finally come. Looking outside at a sunny and crisp, blue sky I can’t help but feel our world has been fundamentally altered. It’s a feeling that first hit me in September of last year. Recession was tearing apart some old structures, reinforcing others, and generally accelerating the change that had been in the air for years. Change is hardly ever pleasant. But always exciting. And this era of transformation especially has been pretty wild. So since this past year was the most transformative in ages, we chose and dedicated this issue’s theme to the new order. Working on this issue has made me reflect on other big, ‘transformative’ years: clearly 2001 (things did not change for the better then), 1999 when the Internet bubble burst (no idea if this was good or bad), and, of course, 1989 when the Wall came down. The latter sparked a sense of triumph and radical economic growth for the West…. Erhmm, what is history doing in a fashion magazine? Well, obviously history, economics and style have everything to do with one another. And especially right now when all the rules, from marketing to distribution to production, are up in the air. Yup, the old familiar structures are still there, but the paradigm of the remix is all prevalent. (Read Matt Mason’s ‘The Pirate’s Dilemma.’)
It was also time for us at CODE to wake up to the new world. We’ve long been focused on delivering our content in the beautiful interface that is a high-quality magazine and we will continue to do so, but it was about time we woke up to digital reality. With CODE being published twice a year, we’ve been busy working on a new digital platform that is about to go live any day now: Documenting Style. It will be a new space to explore, share and connect. A project in process. What’s more, this September will mark five years for CODE—reason enough for some special collaborations. Can’t say much more about it at this time, but stay tuned. There’s some fun and exciting stuff ahead.
Peter van Rhoon Editor in Chief email@example.com
CODE Magazine BV PO Box 69654 1060 CS Amsterdam Phone: +31(0)20 4085511 Fax: +31(0)20 4082280 www.codemagazine.eu
Clyde Semmoh, Jason Jules, Ann Binlot, Valéria Siniouchkina, Melanie Brisson, Patricia Giesbers
Editor in chief Creative director
Peter van Rhoon
Type design, Art direction & Lay-out concept
Kanako B. Koga Graphic design
Production / Ass creative director
Nadine van Asbeck Printed by
Pit Bomans Fleur van den Berge
CODE Magazine is a carbon neutral production printed by Chevalier International (FSC and ISO 14001 certi¿ed)using vegetable inks.
Editorial contibutions by
Jason Jules, Victor Verbeek, Raju Doerga, Mo Veld, Tom Ryling, Marlo Saalmink, Caia Hagel, Ina Sotirova, Aaron Richter
Head of sales
Patrick HoÀand firstname.lastname@example.org
Kareem Black, Tyrone Lebon, Ben Rayner, Brooke Nipar, Tim Georgeson, Uzo Oleh, Tim & Barry, Carolin Leszcinski, Bianca Pilet, Amit Berlowitz, Lis Timm, Christian Knorr, John Londono, Ben Sullivan, Jens Andersson, Tine Claerhout, Albrecht Gerlach, Madi Ju, Cindy Heijnen, Alex Salinas, Tiago Miranda
Aaron Richter, Anneke Bisschops, Teri Duerr
A Acne: www.acnestudios.com Adidas: www.adidas.com Alife: www.alifenyc.com American Apparel: www. americanapparel.net And Beyond: www.andbeyond.nl Arc’Teryx: www.arcteryx.com Asics: www.asics.nl
Denham: www. denhamthejeanmaker.com D&G: www.dolcegabbana.com Diesel: www.diesel.com Dita: www.dita.com Dopechef: www.dopechef.co.uk Dr. Martens: www.drmartens. com Dsquared2: www.dsquared2.com
B Back to noise: www.backtonoise.com Barton Perreira: www.bartonperreira.com Bellerose: www.bellerose.be Benetton: www.benetton.com Bjorn Borg: www.bjornborg.com Bronson: www.bronson.be
F Fabric Interseason: www. fabrics.at Fi¿ Chachnil: www. ¿¿chachnil.com Filippa K: www.¿lippa-k.com Forest & Bob: www. forrestandbob.com Fresh Cotton: www. freshcotton.com
C Calvin Klein: www.calvinkleininc.com Camper: www.camper.com Cazal: www.cazal-eyewear.com Christian Louboutin: www.christianlouboutin.com Clae: www.clae.eu Clarks: www.clarksoriginals.com Cock and Bull Story: www.cockandbullstory.it Colab: www.colab.com.au Converse: www.converse.com Superdry: www.superdry.com Cutler and Gross: www.cutlerandgross.com
G Georgina Goodman: www. georginagoodman.com Geox: www.geox.com Girls From Omsk: www. girlsfromomsk.be G-Star: www.g-star.nl Gourmet: www. gourmetinyourface.com
D Day Birger et Mikkelsen: www.day.dk
H Hackett: www.hackett.com Hixsept: www.hixsept.com H&M: www.hm.com House of Holland: www. houseofholland.co.uk Hugo Boss: www.hugoboss.com Humor: www.humorclothing.com I Ichi: www.ichi.biz Insight: www.insight51.com
J JC de Catelbjac: www.jc-de-castelbajac.com Jeevice: www.jeevice.com Juun.J: www.juunj.com K Karen Walker: www.karenwalker.com Kiliwatch: www.kiliwatch.fr Komono: www.wearekomono.com Ksubi: www.ksubi.com Kuyichi : www.kuyichi.com L Lee: www.lee.com Leg Avenue: www.legavenue.com Levi’s: www.levistrauss.com Lin: www.linfashion.com Linda Farrow: www.lindafarrow.co.uk LuLuLemon: www.lululemon.com M Maison Martin Margiela: www.maisonmartinmargiela.com Mads Norgaard: www.madsnorgaard.com Maharishi: www.maharishistore.com Maria Mudman: www.mariarudman.com Moscot: www.moscot.com Mustang: www.mustangjeans.com
N Nieuw Jurk: www.nieuwjurk.com Nike: www.nike.com
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Non by Kim: www.nonbykim.com Norse Projects: www.norseprojects.com O Ontour: www.ontour.nl P Patta X Huf: www.patta.nl Paul Smith: www.paulsmith.co.uk Peak Performance: www.peakperformance.com Petit Bateau: www.petit-bateau.com Puma: www.puma.com R Ralph Vaessen: www.ralphvaessen.com Reebok: www.reebok.com Replay: www.replay.it Reserved: www.reserved.com Riedel: www.riedellskates.com Rodeo King: www.rodeoking.com S Samsoe Samsoe: www.samsoesamsoe.dk Sjaak Hullekes: www.sjaakhullekes.blogspot. com SpicePR: www.spicepr.nl Stamp’D: www.stampdla.com Stussy: www.stussy.com Super: www.retrosuperfuture.com Surface to Air: www.surfacetoair.com
T The Hundreds: www.thehundreds.com Tom Ford: www.tomford.com U Urban Ears: www.urbanears.com V Vans: www.vans.com Vintage Pierre Cardin: www.pierrecardin.com Vivienne Westwood: www.viviennewestwood.co.uk Von Zipper: www.vonzipper.com W Wesc: www.wesc.com Wig Anthology: www.wiganthology.com Wrangler: www.wrangler.com Wunderkind: www.wunderkind. de Y Yarn Unit: www.yarnunit.com Z Zipper: www.zipperstore.nl 0-9 0044: www.0044paris.com
GO FORWARD, MOVE AHEAD. THE WHIP. ONE STEP AHEAD.
WHO THE F IS CODE
Introducing some of the contributors for this issue.
AARON RICHTER Aaron Richter grew up in St. Louis, Missouri, but now calls Brooklyn home. A displaced writer and editor, he has worked for such publications as Rolling Stone, Spin, BlackBook, URB, Ponytail and DIW. Richter now works primarily as a photographer, shooting models and musicians, but in his spare time, he still edits magazines and steers the art direction for self-titled, a web-based publication he helped launch in 2008. Aaron is CODE’s new copy editor. Aaron enjoys kissing his girlfriend, reading Norman Mailer, re-watching DiG!, and the words ‘rad’ and ‘satiate’—though not necessarily used in the context of each other. www.aaronrichter.com
Aaron Richter Joanna Mroczkowska
JOANNA MROCZKOWSKA Joanna Mroczkowska is a Warsaw-based freelancing, fashionobsessed journalist. In addition to being an “opinionated alcoholic” (her words) who is attempting to finish the last semester of her journalism degree at Warsaw University, she’s also CODE’s Warsaw blogger. For this issue Joanna produced the Warsaw section of the ‘Lodz to Warsaw’ feature, a production which involved some semi-illegal shooting in a museum in Warsaw. She is also a “kind and loving person” (again, in her own words). AMIT BERLOWITZ Photographer Amit Berlowitz, was born in Connecticut, USA, but lives and works in Tel Aviv. Her aesthetics on one hand destabilize, while on the other simultaneously induce a sense of peace. For this issue of CODE Amit was flown from sunny Tel Aviv to minus mucho Poland and survived the challenge gloriously. “I had a fantastic and inspiring experience,” said Amit. Her images seem to position themselves at the fine line between photography and video art, making Amit a wonderful match for cinematographic Lodz. www.dimanches27.com CAIA HAGEL Montreal based Caia Hagel immersed herself for this issue of CODE in the Montreal roller derby scene. Hagel’s personality profiles, travelogues, and art critiques appear from time to time in magazines and on television networks internationally. Hagel seems to collect awards. She won amongst others ‘Best Feature Article’ at the New York Folio Media Awards for her profile on Rem Koolhaas, and the Tiger Award at the Rotterdam International Film Festival. Her chapbook Acts of Kindness and Excellence in Times Tables is available at www.thecupboardpamphlet.org. CAROLIN LESZCZINSKI German Carolin leszczinski (36) studied photography at the Gerrit Rietveld Akademie in Amsterdam before moving to New York in order to continue studying at the School of Visual Arts. After that, she returned to Berlin and shot for several international magazines. Her work was selected for the Festival de la mode et de la Photography Hyere, France. One of her long-term projects is to photograph rodeos throughout North America. Carolin loves horses, her dog Austin, and real cowboys. For this issue of CODE she shot wild girl Mz Sunday Luv. www.surrendertome.de
Photo: Catharina Gerritsen
JOE HOLBROOK Joe Holbrook is a painter whose work recreates his world with detail and vibrant energy. For this issue of CODE he was responsible for the drawings in the ‘Into the Light sunglasses special.’ Though originally from the south of London, Joe has recently found himself living in Amsterdam for love and work. Together with Dutch artist Jeroen Smeets, he runs YOUR:OWN gallery. The Amsterdam gallery recently invited nine artists to exhibit solo shows and Joe will end the series with his own portrayals of the group for his upcoming closing show at the space. www.joeholbrook.co.uk / www.your-own.nl
BEST BRANDS. BEST BUYERS. BEST BUSINESS.
W W W. B R E A D A N D B U T T E R . C O M
“HOME IS AN ABSTRACT WORD FOR US.” Inoue Brothers
Back in London after a trip to South Africa, designers Satoru and Kiyoshi Inoue are prepping to unveil their upcoming projects. Using fashion, music, art and design, the Inoue Brothers—as they’re known in the industry—will create a tribute to the continent that “emphasizes its contrasts and challenges.” Born to Japanese parents and raised in Copenhagen, the multimedia artists (who now split their time between Copenhagen and London) created the term Scandinasian as a means of exploring Scandinavian simplicity and Japanese sensibility within design. The duo’s eponymous fashion line draws inspiration from around the world; past collections have been made with fabrics sourced from the Bolivian Andes and manufactured by indigenous communities. “Our philosophy is based on approaching every project through utmost human respect, transparency, creativity, dialogue and teamwork,” says Kiyoshi. The brothers’ work has steadily achieved more recognition and garnered many fans, including Comme des Garçon’s Rei Kawakubo, with whom they created a Christmas knitwear collection in 2008 and
whose London-based Dover Street Market store was among the first to stock the Inoue Brothers’ early collections. Since childhood, the brothers have always had a collaborative drive. “In 1997— Kiyoshi was in high school—we designed, produced and sold study-trip uniforms,” says Satoru, referring to a trip that Kiyoshi financed, with his brother’s help. As professional designers, they’ve worked with such names as Anthony Keast, with whom they run Environment, their salon and store in London; South African artist duo Gazelle; film director Lars von Trier; and Nicholas Taylor of the ’80s New York band Gray. With Taylor, the brothers developed an exhibition that explored the legacy of Jean-Michel Basquiat, who also played in Gray. “Through Nicholas Taylor, we were inspired to rediscover the courage and boldness it takes to truly be creative and free,” Sartoru says, “and to remain uninfluenced by marketing strategies, sales forecasts, profit margins and all such elements that suffocate modern art.” www.theinouebrothers.net
PETER VAN RHOON
WE LIKE THIS KIND OF UNEXPECTEDNESS Shubankar Ray The laws of communication and distribution are rapidly changing and everyone, from individuals to companies big and small, has to navigate their way through this new reality. G-Star is one of the larger players that showed the ability to reinvent itself during the most recent fashion week. Shubhankar Ray is G-Star’s Global Creative Director. Shubhankar, I couldn’t imagine there were two people with the same name when I was researching you on the web. Are you also the artist that painted ‘Spirit of the Tree?’ No, that’s not me. Good that we’ve set that straight, I was already starting to worry a bit. But who are you then? I was born into a fourth-generation, freedom-fighting family from Calcutta. When I was two and a half years old I moved to England, during the ‘70s. I grew up very much as a product of first-wave immigration. When I was around 18, I was working at the Hacienda [a legendary club in the ‘80s—ed.]. I was the guy collecting the glasses. New Order owned the club and all the people like me, the kids who then were 18,19, 20, were later going to become the Happy Mondays, Stone Roses, etc. That moment was just a special moment in time. I was studying chemistry and, by accident, got exposed to that culture. When those things get inside you, it’s difficult to get them out again. What was the bridge from chemistry to art? In science there’s a degree of creativity, there’s a degree of experimentation and the outcome is often unknown. Same as in art. But apart from that I guess I’ve been lucky. When I was working as a research scientist at a subsidiary of Nestle, I got disillusioned with the job. So I started to study for an MBA and work on their ad campaigns, and later got a job at Levi’s, which was just switching from being a product-oriented company into a branding-oriented one. Then I moved on to work for Caterpillar as creative director, and after working at Camper I arrived at G-Star. The most striking intervention for G-Star was to take something as mass-product as denim to New York Fashion Week and apply a super specialist approach. This ended up in Dennis Hopper doing live poetry on the catwalk. So we brought a bit of high art into it, without pretending it was high art. Right now we’re working on a project at the New Museum in New York. This is going to be the reverse of Raw Nights. Raw Nights was taking a nightclub, stripping it and redesigning it, and turning it into a museum experience with pop-culture curators who do something they are not used to doing. But The Raw Salon idea for the New Museum is the other way around. We want to put in curators from the world of fashion, art and music and expose them to the [museum] audience. We like this kind of unexpectedness or forbidden combinations. www.gstar.com