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sew a PAPERBAG SKIRT Get started

• Main fabric , 1.4m (115cm wide), contrast fabric, 0.4m (112cm wide) • Elastic, 50cm (2.5cm wide)

Sizes 8-20

Cutting guide

Front and back: cut two on the fold from main fabric Side panels: cut two pairs from main fabric Waistband casing: cut one on the fold from contrast fabric Pocket: cut one pair from main fabric Pocket lining: cut one pair from contrast fabric, adding 2.5cm to the bottom edge Tie belt: cut two on the fold from main fabric Belt loop: cut one from main fabric 5mm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.


Download and print the pattern from templates. Cut all the pieces according to the cutting guide, then transfer any markings. Pin each pair of side panels right sides together and sew the curved edge. Neaten the seams and press them to one side.


Pin a pocket and pocket lining piece right sides together, stitch across the top of the pocket, then press the seam towards the lining. With right sides together, measure 1cm from the seam onto the pocket lining, fold over the top of the pocket and press in place. Topstitch close to the seam on the right side of the pocket. Repeat to make the second one.


With right sides together, place the unfinished bottom edge of the pocket in line with the placement mark on each side panel, face-down so the top is towards the hem edge. Stitch the pocket to the side panel along the placement line, then press it up towards the waist edge and pin at

Discover how to create a paperbag waist on a

PATSY SKIRT This knee-length skirt by mother and daughter duo Susan and Naomi of Posner & Posner is a great introduction to making a paperbag style waist, so called because it is elasticated to create a gathered effect at the top. There are no fastenings to contend with – just a tie belt with loops, so you can focus on adding patch pockets with a contrast lining that matches the waistband trim. The flattering design is guaranteed to become a wardrobe staple! the sides, making sure that the top-centre is in line with the joined side panel seam. Topstitch 1cm from the bottom pocket seam, then trim any excess fabric so it’s level with the edge of the side panel.


Stitch one long edge of each joined side panel piece, right sides together to one side of the front skirt, then repeat with the back skirt. Neaten the edges of each seam and press to one side. Mark the centre-front and centre-back of the skirt for positioning the waistband casing.


Press the belt loop strip in half lengthwise, open out and press each edge towards the centre, then fold again to enclose the raw edges and press. Stitch close to the edge of the pressed fabric, then cut the belt loop into three equal lengths. Fold each length in half and press. Pin one belt loop at the centre-back so the raw edges are level with the top waist edge. Position the other two belt loops in the same way, level with the front side panel seams. Stitch in place, 5mm from the waistband edge.


Fold the contrast waistband casing in half lengthwise, right sides together. Sew the short edges, then press the seam open. Place the centre of the casing at the centre-front of the skirt, right sides together, and the seam at

the centre-back with the edge of the casing level with the top of the skirt. Sew the casing to the waist edge, press it away from the skirt, then press a 1.5cm turning at the other edge of the casing.


Measure 1cm from the waistband seam onto the contrast casing, fold and press to form the contrast waistband trim. Topstitch close to the seam on the right side of the fabric, securing the belt loops in place at the top as you sew. Pin the casing in place and sew the bottom edge between each casing stitch marker, as shown on the pattern, carefully sewing over the bottom edge of the belt loops. Leave the centre of the casing at the front unstitched for now.


Thread the elastic through the casing and pin at the front casing stitch markers. Try on the skirt to check the fit around the waist. The centre of the front skirt is flat with no elastic. Check the elastic is centred within the casing and stitch in place securely at the casing stitch marker. Sew the remaining part of the casing at the front.


SHOPPER ************************

CUT THE MUSTARD We used this Japanese Tottorri Cross seersucker in mustard. £14 per metre,


Join both sections of the tie belt right sides together and press open. Fold the belt in half lengthwise and stitch close to the raw edge, leaving a 4cm gap. Fold the belt ends so that the seam is in the centre and sew across each end. Turn the belt right sides out, then press. Sew the gap closed by hand and pass the belt through the loops. Neaten the hem edge then turn it up, press and stitch in place.


EARN YOUR STRIPES Our contrast fabric is this fine stripe chambray in red. £6.99 per metre, ************************ thank you for shopping!

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