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MAKE ME TODAY! Simple Sew Zadie top
Fun fabric stash
Behind the scenes:
COUTURE GARMENT ARCHIVE
MIDI SKIRT Expert guide Swimwear made easy! ISSUE 55 UK Â£6.99
Inspire Imagine Create
See Christina's dress on page 23
â€Ś to issue 55 of Love Sewing
o need to stay trapped inside while all this gorgeous sunshine is on our doorsteps! Take your crafting outside with a portable and fun hand-sewing project. I've spoken before about how embroidery has taught me to slow down and enjoy learning new stitches. Why not start with our embroidered tote bag on page 68?
Love Sewing's Art Editor Simon has become addicted to English paper piecing, working on a baby blanket for his nephew. There's nothing like a handmade gift and a small quilt like this is great for mixing fabric prints in a unique way! We have so many fabric discounts inside this issue I can barely keep track so take a look and see if you can find something for your next quilting project (and save a few pennies at the same time).
Simon is hooked on EPP
One of my favourite projects in this issue are the adorable cactus ornaments on page 98 which could easily be turned into pincushions to decorate your sewing space. If you're sprucing things up in your craft room, why not try the fun fabric storage boxes on page 30? They're a bit nicer than a basic plastic tub and you can customise them with cheeky slogans to encourage you to be tidier. Maybe it's just me that needs a powerful kick into action to make sure I tidy up after each project.
Bag of style on page 68
Simon ART EDITOR Simon is passionate about design and has a keen eye for detail. He's creative in his spare time too and we love his range of bright and cheeky enamel pins. See more at www.instagram.com/ simonsayspins
Bethany I hope you find lots of exciting things to make and read in this issue. There are plenty of dressmaking projects to try and once you read Christina's review of this issue's McCall's dress pattern I'm sure it will jump to the top of your must-make list!
Mini makes on page 98
DEPUTY EDITOR Bethany loves nothing more than indulging in a quiet spot of cross stitch in her free time. Sheâ€™s also the creator of the Make It Betty 'Sketch it Stitch it' notebooks and pins available at www.makeitbetty. etsy.com
Lorna EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Lorna has buckets of enthusiasm for making magazines. She loves to see your makes so remember to send them to letters@lovesewingmag. co.uk
Inside this ISSUE REGULARS AND FEATURES
3 6 9 10 12 14 18 23 24 26 28 33 34 37 41 50 52 55 59 60 62 67 70 74 78 79
Welcome Love Sewing Loves Save 20% at Fabrics For Sale 15 minutes with Lauren Guthrie This month I’m making Fabric focus – Save 30% on 30 fabrics at Fabworks In the good books Reader review: McCall’s 7714 Couture sew-along with Alison Smith MBE SUBSCRIBE TODAY The Dressmaker’s Diary with Elisalex de Castro Peake Machine review Pattern picks – Own the runway Swatch Selector with Kerry Green A Brief History of Cath Kidston Fabric focus – Save 30% on Threaders fabric Sewing workshops DISCOUNTS AND GIVEAWAYS Readers’ makes Thrifty Stitcher with Claire-Louise Hardie Shop of the month Save 50% on Butterick patterns Fabric focus – Double gauze PATTERN READING BASICS AND FITTING ESSENTIALS Shop local news Fabric focus – Back to bed
Sew a classic day dress!
Save 40% on the cover price when you subscribe to Love Sewing – see page 26 for further info
80 Skill building with Wendy Gardiner 86 Jade Earley the girl with the bright red hair 88 Couture inside out 92 Behind the seams with Wendy Ward 94 Exclusive reader offer 96 Coming next issue
19 Your McCall’s pattern gift – 4-in-1 princess-seam dress 30 Boxing clever storage baskets 38 Camera ready selfie bag 45 Start at the top Zadie pattern 48 Life’s a picnic patchwork blanket 64 Fresh as a daisy button-down skirt 68 From bags to stitches embroidered tote bags 72 Shake it off baby bear rattles 82 Beachy keen top and shorts 98 Can’t touch this cacti ornaments
Find us online
Editorial Editor Amy Thomas Deputy Editor Bethany Armitage Editorial Assistant Lorna Malkin Senior Sub-Editor Justine Moran Sub-Editor Kayleigh Hooton Senior Art Editor Sher Ree Tai Art Editor Simon Kay Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Amy Worrall Hair & make-up Nina Rochford Contributors Claire-Louise Hardie, Alison Smith MBE, Elisalex de Castro Peake, Wendy Ward, Jade Earley, Wendy Gardiner, Kerry Green
Publishing & Advertising Head of Softcrafts Ruth Walker Advertising Sales Executive Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practical publishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul Sales & Information Support Executive Stacey Oldman Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Distribution Manager Lauren Murray Production Executive Anna Olejarz Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Managing Editor Kate Heppell Managing Art Editor Jennifer Lamb Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Financial Director Chris Dunbar Strategy & Insights Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson
Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd
Contact Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG firstname.lastname@example.org www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202
Tel: 01858 438899 email@example.com
Tel: 0844 561 1202 firstname.lastname@example.org Love Sewing is published by Practical Publishing International Ltd ISSN 2054-832X All material © Practical Publishing International Ltd. The style and mark of Love Sewing is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of Practical Publishing International Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity.
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CONTRIBUTORS Sarah Wadey & Freya Gilbert
As well as being the designers behind My Handmade Wardrobe patterns, Sarah and Freya run Leicester-based shop and website www.craftysewandso.com, offering sewing supplies, machines and workshops. On page 82 they share a top and shorts set perfect for your summer break.
Editor of our sister mag Sew Now, Sam describes herself as a Jane of all crafts. On page 98 she’s sharing three charming cacti ornaments that you could easily turn into pincushions! Discover more about Sew Now at www.sewnowmag.co.uk
Meet the former Sewing Bee contestant and step inside her wonderful shop with our interview on page 10! Lauren is both an avid maker and a successful businesswoman, and we loved chatting with her. See the shop for yourself in Birmingham or online at www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk
We’re delving into the history of this iconic businesswoman and her irresistible brand of quirky, feminine and fun products. Hear about how Cath Kidston got started on page 41 and shop the range at www.cathkidston.com
The patterns, people, fabric and finds getting us sewing this month
Scandi -style sewing
Turn to PAGE 57 for an exclusive 20% OFF discount!
GIRL Whatever the weather, we can’t resist a lovely cotton jersey. Wonderfully soft and made from high-quality 95% cotton with 5% Spandex, the Ocean Gulls cotton jersey from Lamazi Fabrics has really caught our eye. Ideal for an everyday T-shirt or sweatshirt, it could even make a fun fabric choice for a nautical maxi skirt, with classic navy and white stripe interspersed with cheeky seagull characters. Lamazi Fabrics began life in March and is quickly building a loyal fan base, stocking some of our favourite fabric, including Cloud9 and Lady McElroy, as well as a large range of sewing patterns, kits and haberdashery. Plus, it offers free delivery on all UK orders! Price: £7.25 per 0.5m at www.lamazifabrics.com
High Cuff Sweater
Three Pleat Skirt
We’re big fans of the carefully crafted and contemporary Scandinavian feel of Swedish indie brand The Assembly Line. Each piece has been designed with care, including everything from box-pleat dresses to high-cuff sweaters, tulip-style skirts and utility cover-ups. The Draper’s Daughter is the first UK retailer to stock the full range of The Assembly Line patterns, perfectly complementing the online shop’s beautiful collections of designer and organic fabric. Shop: Explore the full range of The Assembly Line patterns at www.drapersdaughter.com
Sewing room swoon Finally we have our own crests! Rudy Boddington, otherwise known as Roodles Runique, has designed lots of bold prints, stickers and tote bags emblazoned with sewing machines and fun phrases like ‘Sewing is my superpower’, and others featuring lots of creative tools and the mantra ‘Makers gonna make’. They’re perfect for jazzing up your sewing space. Price: A6 prints from £2.50 at www.roodlesrunique. etsy.com
SOCIAL Celebrate all things sewing and dressmaking with the Sewisfaction Big Summer Stitch Up! A great chance to get together and meet fellow sewists, the event, hosted by sewing shop Sewisfaction, also gives you the opportunity to show off your best handmade outfit (with the chance to win a prize for it too!). There will be demos from leading craft tutors, a fantastic raffle, BBQ and Pimm’s bar and lots of time to pore over lovely fabric with the other sewists. Going on your own? Don’t worry, it’s a really social bunch. You can even join the Sewisfaction Facebook group beforehand to chat to people and see if anyone is coming from near you or fancies meeting up on the day. Where: Sewisfaction, Wokingham, Berkshire When: 11am – 4pm, Saturday 14th July Price: Free, with optional registration. Head to www.sewisfaction.co.uk to find out more
STITCH The cross stitch and embroidery we’re loving this month
Bethany Deputy Editor
These baby bootees are the cutest! Each slipper is made from soft and cuddly 100% cotton and the adjustable strap uses 18-count aida. Personalise them by stitching a name or motif for a superquick and thoughtful gift. Available for $10 (approximately £7.47) from www. stitchedmodern.com
MAKE A STATEMENT
Continuing my wearable theme, www. namasteembroidery. etsy.com has some really brilliant jewellery kits. I especially like this gorgeous handembroidered silver-plated necklace, which comes with background fabric, 10 DMC floss colours, a 4” embroidery hoop, needles and links to easyto-follow tutorials. It’s available for £24.79.
Summer heralds wedding season, and if you’re anything like us, this is a great excuse to sew up something a little bit special. For a gorgeous range of lace and occasionwear fabric, take a peek at the huge selection at Croft Mill. There are lots of lovely lace, satin-backed crepe, silk dupion, sequins and more to choose from. We especially love the idea of a lace bodice or skirt overlay. Or why not use it to make statement clutch bag to finish your outfit in style? Shop: For more inspiration, go to www.croftmill.com
WEAR YOUR ART ON YOUR SLEEVE
The needlework artist Juno has been on my radar for some time. She incorporates beautifully detailed hand embroidery to create realistic characters and motifs to adorn garments, bags and walls. These are incredible works of art and I definitely recommend giving her a follow on Instagram junoembroidery if you’re in need of stitching inspiration! www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 7
Staying organised is far from boring thanks to this clever little to-do list from Emma Giacalone. Created in her own unique free-motion embroidered way, Emma has stitched the notepaper and text, and popped it into a 10x8” frame so you can use a wipe-away pen to write onto the glass front and keep note of all of your daily tasks. This would make a beautiful gift and you can even ask Emma to personalise your list with your own notes, written in your handwriting or hers. What a lovely idea! Price: £35 from www. emmagiacalone.com
TEST-DRIVE YOUR NEXT
Kirstie Allsopp’s Handmade Fairs are in full swing, with the next big event taking place at Hampton Court Palace from 14th – 16th September. As well as the chance to take in inspiring talks from some of our favourite sewists, like Tilly Walnes and Debbie Shore, you can also get stuck into lots of workshops! Janome has generously provided the new M100QDC machines for all sewing classes, allowing you to make lovely projects to take home with you and test-drive this brilliant sewing machine at the same time. A computerised model, the M100QDC has a flat-bed conversion (perfect for large projects and quilting), 100 built-in stitches and a huge range of accompanying standard accessories. Shop: Tickets to Kirstie Allsopp’s Handmade Fair are £16 per adult from www.thehandmadefair.com To find your nearest Janome stockist, visit www.janome.co.uk
Love to learn
To celebrate its eighth anniversary, The Sewing Directory has introduced some exciting changes to make the site even more user friendly for visitors. There are now 60% more listings than it had at the end of 2017, which means there are plenty of new sewing shops and schools listed for you to discover in your local area! A fantastic resource for sewists, there are hundreds of free sewing patterns and projects, as well as a huge number of technique guides to help you grow your sewing confidence and take your skills to the next level. Discover: Take a look around the updated website at www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk
Lisa Comfort, queen of vintage-inspired patterns, has just launched a brand-new range of patterns designed for babies. Poppy & Jazz, named after her dog Poppy and her one-year-old daughter Jasmine, includes five adorable easy-to-sew patterns, ideal for beginners and beyond. This includes a dress, dungarees, hoodie, trousers and a sweatshirt, for newborns all the way through to toddlers, so little ones can look every bit as cool as their mummy! Sizes: 0-3 to 24 months Price: £5 PDF download at www.lisacomfort.com
Tangerine trousers and Strawberry sweatshirt
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15 MINUTES WITH...
We chatted to Lauren Guthrie to talk about her rapidly growing sewing emporium and school, Guthrie & Ghani, and of course to catch up on her Sewing Bee days!
What’s on your to-sew list right now? I’ve just cut out the pop-over version of the Closet Case Patterns Kalle tunic and I’m making it in a beautiful sashiko-style Japanese cotton which I’m really excited about. Also lined up is another pair of Closet Case Patterns high-waisted Ginger jeans and the Tunic from the Uniform book by Grainline and Madder.
ormer Sewing Bee finalist Lauren Guthrie has come a long way in the last five years. Since appearing on the first series of the show, she’s gone on to start fabric shop with her partner, lead her own sewing school and even write a brilliant book! Hi Lauren, how are you today? Tell us, what are you working on at the minute? Hello, I’m great thanks! With summer on its way, this is my favourite time of year to sew and I’ve always got lots of projects in my queue. On the business todo list, we are getting our plans ready for a special summer blog series which will run over June and July in the lead up to our summer event in the shop.
It’s been five years since you were a finalist on The Great British Sewing Bee, how has life changed for you since 2013? The filming for The Sewing Bee took place back in 2012 and by the time it was broadcast in April 2013, it also happened to coincide with the opening of my fabric and haberdashery shop and sewing studio, Guthrie & Ghani. So life has definitely changed a lot since then. I’ve written and published a book, had a baby, built up my G&G team, and the shop has also won several awards for best haberdashery in the Midlands. What’s been your proudest sewing achievement since the show ended? In terms of things I’ve sewn, it was making my own jeans that I feel really proud of. They really weren’t as complicated as I thought they would be and, for someone who wears jeans a lot, it’s a really nice feeling to know I’ve made them myself. In general though, I feel really proud that through the shop and the workshops I teach, I’ve been able to teach and encourage so many people to sew their own clothes.
Lauren's Ginger jeans
Lauren in her Kelly anorak
Lauren Guthrie Grainline Lark tee & Pauline Alice Rosari skirt
WIN A FAT QUARTER BUNDLE FROM GUTHRIE & GHANI! ONE LUCKY READER WILL WIN 12 FAT QUARTERS FROM THE NEW LIBERTY QUILTING COTTON COLLECTION! TO ENTER, VISIT WWW.PPJUMP. COM/LOVESEWING55 BEFORE 2ND AUGUST 2018
How do you think the sewing community has changed in the last five years? I think the community has continued to grow through social media and blogs, and people have been able to make new friends on and offline, be inspired, challenge themselves and learn new skills. It’s become such a supportive place and much more accessible for different skill levels, styles and body shapes. What fabric are you loving for summer? I really want to make more dresses this summer. Linen and viscose mixes are a lovely summer fabric as they are cool, lightweight and have more drape than 100% linen. What’s new for Guthrie & Ghani over the next few months? I’m really excited to be hosting two mini summer capsule wardrobe retreats. These workshops offer you three blissful days of sewing in our beautiful studio where you can make three different garments to mix and match, while learning new skills and techniques. We will also be attending the Knitting & Stitching show at Alexandra Palace in October. I’ll be there all four days, giving demos at The Creative Living Theatre as well as on our stand. Our popular dressmaking kits will be back with a new range of gorgeous garments to make as well as a selection of our best fabric!
After reaching the final of the very first series of The Great British Sewing Bee, Lauren went on to set up her own fabric emporium and sewing school, Guthrie & Ghani with her husband Ayaz. Housed in a beautiful mock-Tudor building on the outskirts of Birmingham, the shop hosts regular workshops aimed at all levels of sewists and stocks a huge collection of stunning fabric, patterns and haberdashery items. See more at www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk
I feel really proud that I’ve been able to teach and encourage so many people to sew their own clothes
Guthrie & Ghani
Ogden cami & Flint pants
This month |'m making Sophia created these bright and floaty trousers by adapting the Tilly and the Buttons Marigold pattern. To see more of Sophia’s fabulous makes, visit her blog www.jessalliblog.com
his month's make is really exciting for me, mainly due to the fact something in my head actually turned out well! And it's just in time for the gorgeous weather we’re having at the moment. I needed a nice pair of light summer trousers, and as I love the Marigold pattern so much I knew I’d like the shape and fit.
THE MINERVA CRAFTS BLOGGER NETWORK The Minerva Crafts Blogger Network is a collection of amazing sewing and craft bloggers from across the world. Every month each blogger creates a unique kit from the thousands of gorgeous fabrics and notions available at Minerva Crafts. They wow us with their makes every month by blogging a project made with their kit on the network. There are new projects going live daily to inspire and educate sewists of all levels and abilities. Each blogger's unique kits are available to buy at www.minervacrafts.com
I’ve seen a lot of frilly-topped loose-fit trousers not only on the handmade scene but on the high street too. The fabric I chose was candy pink, plain viscose – it’s so light and drapey and perfect for hot weather. I love this tone of pink, it's really bright but I hope you agree I can pull it off! The fabric is soft and cool and feels lovely against your skin. I did use a sharps needle in my machine for this fabric and it definitely helped. I started off making the waistband double the height so I knew I would have extra for the paperbag top. I then cut out two long strips for the tie waist (approximately 60x12cm). I folded the tie piece in half lengthways and stitched it together, tapering it at the ends to make a slight curve. I turned these right sides out and folded the open ends in half. I slipped the open ends in the side seams of the waistband piece, approximately a third of the way up, and carried on with the usual instructions.
Sophia says... The Marigold pattern is a must for your stash, it’s so versatile and easily adapted!
Candy pink viscose, £4.99 per metre. Marigold pattern by Tilly and the Buttons £12.50. Both from www.minervacrafts.com
I was going to add little belt loops, but I quite like the tie front being a little more casual and loose. I really love the way these have turned out. I know they’re quite bright, but I feel really good in them. I can imagine wearing them for a special occasion with heels and a blouse. I'd definitely recommend you try something out that you haven’t got a pattern for. It’s taught me how to work out a different shape and use my head when putting the garment together. The Marigold pattern is a must for your stash, it’s so versatile and easily adapted. Plus, you should absolutely make something light with this beautiful drapey viscose.
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Recreate the look using Fabworks wide-stripe terracotta organic jersey, £6 per metre.
Stripe tee, £39.95 www.whitestuff.co.uk
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Shopping list Red and Black Plaid, ÂŁ4 per metre Earth Adventure 1, 2 and 3, all ÂŁ5 per metre Palm Beach, ÂŁ5 per metre Elephant Trail, ÂŁ1 per metre Little Star Magenta Pink, ÂŁ5 per metre Paintbox Party, ÂŁ5 per metre Wide-stripe terracotta and white organic cotton single jersey, ÂŁ6 per metre Alhambra Tile, ÂŁ5 per metre Best Foot Forward, ÂŁ6 per metre Sugared Almond Bouquet, ÂŁ5 per metre This offer will run until 29th July
Stars in Cerise, £5 per metre Crème Caramel, £1 per metre Neon Nightlife Abstract Floral, £7 per metre Orla Slinky Viscose, £6 per metre Meadow Ditsy in Hot Pink, Yellow, Blue and Red, all £5 per metre Monochrome Aztec Tile, £5 per metre Counting Sheep in Primrose, Baby Blue and Baby Pink, all £5 per metre Sweet Candy Floral, £5 per metre What a Hoot! £5 per metre Colourful Chameleon, £7 per metre Stars in Turquoise, £5 per metre Olive Floral Bouquet, £5 per metre Hibiscus Dream single jersey, £5 per metre All fabric is available at www.fabworks.co.uk/collections/love-sewing-special
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BOOK OF THE MONTH
IN THE GOOD
BOOKS Our pick of this month’s new sewing and dressmaking books
Flowerbomb! by Hannah Read-Baldrey. Photographs by Tiffany Mumford. £14.99, Pavilion Hi Hannah! Tell us, what inspired the new book? I am eternally inspired by the beauty of flowers and I don’t think I’m alone in this. Each season there are new colours, scent, meanings and forms. I love the way flowers can inspire and influence design, from a fabric print to a party decoration. The Flowerbomb! idea came about a couple of years ago when I wanted to create a joyful book, inspired simply by the complexity of flowers!
CREWEL INTENTIONS Use colour, texture, beading and all manner of adventurous stitches in Hazel Blomkamp's awe-inspiring new book Crewel Creatures. This beautiful title is available for £15.99 from www. searchpress.com
What is your favourite sewing project in the book and why? There are lots of sewing projects and to be honest I worked on them so intensely I love them all! The Adieu bag (below) uses an intricate sewing pattern featuring specific flowers that mean its namesake, and the Rosie skirt is super fun to wear, with layers of red fabric petals. The Folk cushion is so beautiful and now sits proudly on my pink velvet boudoir chair at home and then the Flower-bomber jacket, embroidered with sequin flowers looks like it’s just come off the catwalk. Like I say, it's very hard to pick a favourite. What are your top tips for incorporating a love of florals into your summer wardrobe? This summer (as every summer) florals are all over the catwalks. This year though it's in a more
CREATIVE QUILTING Lori Kennedy guides you through the exciting art of machine quilting, with 62 innovative designs to try. More Free-Motion Machine Quilting 1-2-3 is available for £26.99 from www.ctpub.com
conservative way. Shirt or maxi dresses are knee length or beyond with one bold print. I’ve just bought a gorgeous mustard dress from H&M. If you are bold enough you can clash prints in a patchwork way too. Finally, do you have any exciting plans over the next few months that you would like to share? I’m actually going to be taking some time out until the end of the summer. I’m looking forward to going on holiday and wearing lots of floral dresses.
SEW PRACTICAL Heavy-Duty Sewing by Anton Sandqvist shares how to make wonderfully practical bags and other useful items with ease. We love the professional finish he achieves with every project included. It is available now for £16 from www. quartoknows.com
This 6-in-1 dress from Butterick is a great all-round design. Remember the finished measurements are printed on the pattern tissue to help you pick the perfect size!
A tailor's ham is a rounded, padded two-sided surface used for pressing. One side is wool and the other side is cotton. This tool is used when pressing any curved surface to help replicate the shape of the body for a smooth finish.
Sewing print and Harris Tweed ham. ÂŁ24.50 www.clothbound.co.uk
VIEW C Make the ultimate shift dress with sweet cap sleeves and easy-fit princess seams but keep things fresh by using a grown-up novelty print. No one does that like Cath Kidston!
London spots cotton duck fabric, ÂŁ20 per metre www. cathkidston.com
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McCALL PATTERN CO. DESIGN IN YOUR SIZE WITH EVERY ISSUE! See page 26 for details
Why not try a retro version with a v-neckline, full skirt and eye-catching fabric design? It's nautical but nice!
Whitby Waters cotton duck, £20 per metre www.cathkidston.com
Hear the story of Cath Kidston's sensational world of prints on page 41
PRINCESS SEAMS Princess seam lines are a great feature for achieving a perfect fit, but it can be a little fiddly to achieve a smooth finish. Here are a few top tips to help you create perfect princess seams. 1 Remember you’re matching the seam lines when you pair up the two bodice pieces, NOT the raw edges of the fabric. 2 Sew the two princess seams in the same direction, meaning you should sew from the top to the waist for both, or the opposite for both. 3 Snip into the seam allowance of the centre bodice piece to allow it to spread around the curve. 4 Notch the seam allowance of the side bodice piece to allow it to curve inwards without bulk. 5 Then snip straight lines into the straight areas of both seam allowance, nearest the waist. 6 Press the seam allowance open using a tailor’s ham for a smooth finish.
Available from fabric stores and websites countrywide. Or visit www.sewdirect.com
te: t e s i L Sew r Style! You
Reader Review McCall's 7714 Christina Snellgrove, vintage vixen and blogger behind www.gussetsandgodets.com, shares her version of this issue’s McCall's pattern gift
ummer is well and truly upon us, so cue the picnics in the park, BBQs in the garden and ice creams on the pier. That's when you need a sweet little summer dress in a gorgeous print to swan about in, and a twirling skirt just makes it all the more fun. I knew that's exactly what I was getting from McCall’s 7714. A super-cute and comfortable dress that calls out for a fun print. The Lisa Comfort cotton lawn that I used was an absolute dream, and the print is completely adorable! I chose the lilac colourway of the Busy Blossom cotton lawn, sent kindly by www.minervacrafts.com who has it for sale at £15.99 per metre. As soon as it arrived I knew it would make the perfect summer frock! All Lisa's new fabric prints are really pretty and feminine with that cheeky vintage flair that I find irresistible. I did make a couple of basic adjustments to the pattern. I lengthened the hem a touch and also added a little length to the sleeves. What I really like about this pattern is the ability to adjust and customise it to fit your personal style. And the princess
seams mean that you can get a great fit too. I found the instructions easy to follow and the dress came together so quickly. The pleated skirt is floaty without being too full, while the waistband means that I don't have to bother wearing a belt because it frames the waist beautifully. I'm already scheming more versions to whip up. The narrow skirt option in particular will be perfect for me at work – it's a flattering shape in a simple and chic silhouette, definitely a wardrobe staple. And I would love to try some colour blocking with this pattern too. There are just so many options to play with!
In issue 57 modern maker Sarah C reviews M7631
Say hello to Christina on Instagram gussetsandgodets www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 23
ASK THE EXPERTS
Sew-along Part 2
Alison Smith MBE continues her new sew-along, sharing tips and tricks for making a flawless pair of jeans
y current sew-along is for jeans! Have you thought about making jeans? They really are not that difficult. I am using the Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans. These jeans require denim with 2% stretch. This is the type of denim widely used in RTW.
Jeans are really difficult to toile as calico does not stretch, and if you toile in a stretch fabric it may behave differently to your chosen denim. Unless you have excess fabric you might find it best to press ahead with these tips.
|n this issue Alison takes us
through perfect pockets!
Rivets create a professional finish
Why not make a pressing guide from a manilla envelope?
This incredible offer is nearly over! Use the code GINGER at www.fabrichq.co.uk before 5th July to get your copy of the Ginger Jeans by Closet Case Patterns MACHINE SETUP
Insert a jeans needle into your sewing machine, use a good-quality thread for the bobbin and sewing the seams (I recommend Gütermann) and you will also need a contrast topstitching thread. If you have two sewing machines I would take the luxury of having one machine threaded with the topstitching thread and one with the regular thread. Both would require regular thread in the bobbin. You will also need a three-thread overlocker (with stitch length of 3) or an overcast setting for your machine.
Last time we interfaced the back pockets and coin pocket as indicated on the pattern pieces and finished the raw edges. Attach the back yoke sections to the trouser backs and overlock the seam allowances together and then press the seam down.
Now three pieces are ready, we will top-stitch as much as we can before progressing. While a twin needle stitch would be extremely neat, many machines cannot handle twin needle stitches on such thick layers of denim. Using a single row and stitching twice where necessary is better. Turn down and press the top edge of the coin pocket and the back pockets. Using a stitch length of 3/3.5, machine one or two rows of top-stitching along the pocket tops. Turn under the remaining edges on the back pockets and press. Turn under the remaining straight edge on the coin pocket. Before attaching the pockets, top-stitch the back yoke seam – if you do this after the pocket has been attached the pocket may push against your machine foot as you endeavour to top-stitch! Top-stitch the coin pocket to the front yoke and pin and top-stitch the back pockets in place. One side of the back pockets is slightly curved and this goes toward the CB seam. When positioning the pocket on the back take care – if they are too low they look odd, the same applies if they are too high. Compare the pocket placement on some existing jeans. You can of course wait until you have constructed your jeans to position the pockets but this will be much more fiddly as you’ll have less room to manoeuvre and the risk of lopsided pockets is higher, so please be warned! When you are happy with the placement, why not add a strengthening rivet at the corners? These are quite easy to insert if you have the pliers! (Prym are the best option in my book.)
Top-stitch with two rows of single stitching lines
Check the pocket positon on your favourite jeans
Let's pause there and pick things up next time!
ABOUT ALISON SMITH Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert in classic couture and a published author. Alison has her own shop and line of patterns, and you can also learn with Alison at one of her exclusive workshops. Find out more on her site www.schoolofsewing.co.uk
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The Dressmaker's With Elisalex
This DIY petticoat will add extra flounce to your McCall's pattern gift
afe to say that at least 80% of the population of my wardrobe lies in the fullskirted cotton day dress region. Iâ€™d also wager that a good 80% of you reading this article can probably say the same. As much as I love the printed cotton fullskirted look, there are two things that get on my nerves â€“ when the wind blows it up over my head and when it never looks as full as it does on girls on vintage pattern sleeves. Enter the petticoat. Once upon a time this was a wardrobe staple, for both practical and aesthetic reasons, but I feel the petticoat is in dire need of a comeback. The bonus is that the extra layers will keep you warm on chilly nights and also provide extra modesty for sheer fabric. The petticoat consists of two layers. The cotton lawn underskirt, which is a halfcircle skirt cut using your hip measurement plus a couple of extra inches of dressing ease, and the tulle top layer, which is also a half circle cut in the same way as the cotton underskirt but with a gathered hem ruffle for extra flounce! Cutting the petticoat according to your hip measurement as opposed to your waist results in a half-circle skirt that is easy to slip on and off without the need for a zip or fastening. It also means your petticoat will be just a tad fuller than a half circle cut according to your waistline.
Find a range of tulle in different shades at www. fabricsforsale.co.uk and use the discount code on page 9 to save 20% at checkout!
MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 2-3m cotton lawn • 3-4m net or tulle (avoid the scratchy stuff) • elastic or a drawstring long enough to encircle your waist • circle skirt calculator tool at www.byhandlondon.com/pages/ circle-skirt-app
6 Hem your cotton underskirt. I wanted to add a little secret hidden detail to mine so I chose one of the decorative stitches to hem my underskirt. It took an absolute age and used up a lot of thread, but I love the texture and finish of the white on white!
HOW TO MAKE: CUTTING YOUR FABRIC 1 To cut your cotton underskirt, use your hip measurement plus 2" to figure out the radius of your half circle. Fold your fabric in half lengthways and map out your skirt using the diagram below as a guide. SELVEDGE
7 If you haven't already and need to, join the ruffle lengths to form a continuous loop. I overlocked mine, but a wide zigzag stitch on a regular sewing machine works just as well. Radius
2 The length you go for is entirely up to you – I opted for a finished length of 24" as that's how long the vast majority of my full skirts and dresses are (classic on-theknee length). Just remember to factor in 5/8" seam allowance at the waistline and 1/2" hemming allowance. 3 To cut your tulle top layer, the tulle is cut in exactly the same way as the cotton underskirt, but shorter in order to accommodate the length of the hem ruffle. I cut mine 16" in length. The hem ruffle is simply a length of tulle that, in my case, was 11" deep and 200" long (2.5 x the circumference at the hemline of the tulle top layer). Of course, I had to cut the hem ruffle as two lengths of 100" each, which I later seamed to form a continuous loop.
Now that your ruffle is perfectly in place, you can remove any visible gathering threads. JOINING THE TWO LAYERS AND FINISHING THE WAISTLINE Lay the tulle skirt over the cotton underskirt, both RS facing up and pin together along the waistline. Baste. Now fold the waistline over by 5/8" and press carefully BUT check first how your tulle reacts to your iron! If it is likely to melt, use a pressing cloth to avoid destroying the petticoat before it's done. Stitch the waistline down, leaving enough space to provide a casing for the elastic or drawstring, and leaving a gap of about 2" unstitched to allow you to feed your elastic through. To easily feed the elastic through the waistline, attach the end to a safety pin and push it through and along and out the other end.
GATHERING AND JOINING THE RUFFLE 8 The next step is to gather the ruffle. I usually like to gather by running two parallel lines of wide machine or hand stitches, but you could also try zigzagging over a length of dental floss for an express version!
9 Gather the ruffle so that it matches the hemline of the tulle skirt, and don't forget to tie off the gathering threads in order to prevent your gathers from undoing as you sew!
ASSEMBLING THE LAYERS 4 Start by closing the back seam of both the cotton and tulle skirts individually. Use a regular straight stitch for the cotton skirt, but switch to a wide zigzag when working with tulle or net. 5 Stay-stitch or overlock the waistline of your cotton underskirt.
If you've used elastic, simply tie the ends of in a secure double knot and then stitch down the opening at the waistline. If you've used a drawstring, you'll need to leave that opening open! Your petticoat is done! If you made yours to the same lengths and measurements as I did, you'll have a pretty little overhang of tulle past the hem of the underskirt but if you'd rather your petticoat be uniform in length, simply trim the excess away and start twirling!
ABOUT ELISALEX We're going to sew the ruffle directly onto the tulle skirt, WS of ruffle facing RS of skirt, as opposed to RST. Choose a wide zigzag stitch and sew from the WS, so that the gathered ruffle is helped along by the feed dogs on your sewing machine, and your foot can glide easily over the flat layer of tulle of the main skirt part.
Elisalex de Castro Peake is the head of design and co-founder of By Hand London. An independent pattern company, it produces gorgeously designed, high-quality patterns that are available as PDF downloads through the site www.byhandlondon.com
Keep your sewing table tidy with a handy fabric storage box Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER
MATERIALS & TOOLS: â€˘ 50cm floral fabric (Fabric A) â€˘ 50cm denim fabric (Fabric B) â€˘ 40cm blender fabric for lining the smaller basket (Fabric C) â€˘ 50cm blender fabric for lining the larger basket (Fabric D) â€˘ 1m Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding â€˘ 1.5m Vlieseline Style-Vil foam interfacing â€˘ large scrap of tan leather (enough for 8 2.5x25cm handles) â€˘ orange Perle #8 cotton â€˘ co-ordinating thread â€˘ heavier tan denim thread â€˘ gold iron-on foil â€˘ manual die-cutting machine â€˘ alphabet dies â€˘ leather hole punch
CUTTING: From Fabric A, cut: â€˘ 2 20x40cm side pieces (13x26cm) â€˘ 2 20x30cm end pieces (13x20cm) From Fabric B, cut: â€˘ 2 10x40cm side pieces (8x25cm) â€˘ 2 10x30cm end pieces (8x20cm) â€˘ 30x40cm base (20x26cm) From Fabric C or D, cut: â€˘ 2 29x39cm side pieces (19x25cm) â€˘ 2 28x29cm end pieces (19cm square) â€˘ 29x39cm base (19x25cm) From leather, cut: â€˘ 4 3x20cm pieces (3x15cm)
HOW TO MAKE:
Seam allowances are 0.5cm unless otherwise stated This pattern is in two sizes. The main instructions are for the larger of the two baskets with the smaller in parentheses Interface each of the pieces after you have cut them. Ensure to cut the Style-Vil slightly larger than each panel
Prepare the leather handles by lightly gluing two strap pieces suede sides together. Use tan denim thread to sew around the outer edge, laminating the pieces together. Repeat for the other handle. Punch four holes in each end. Repeat for the other strap.
Debbie says... Tidy away all kinds of sewing supplies in these caddies or make a set for extra storage under your bed!
Using alphabet dies and the manual die-cutting machine, cut your desired words from gold foil and set to one side. Take a side piece of Fabric A and a piece of Fabric B and sew together with Fabric B on the bottom. Top-stitch above and below the seam between the floral and denim panels. Repeat for the other side pieces and press. Fuse H630 to the WS of the base and the sides. Decide which side will be the front and follow the manufacturerâ€™s instructions to attach the gold letters to this side. Lay each panel (including the base) onto a slightly larger piece of Style-Vil foam and attach with a very narrow
The Sizzix Big Shot die-cutting machine and dies are fantastic for lots of crafts. Cut paper, fabric and vinyl or use the machine to emboss details using the wide range of dies. The machine and dies are available from www.sizzix.co.uk
seam all around. Trim the foam if needed. 9 Attach a handle on each end 6cm (4cm) in from each end and 9cm (5cm) down from the top. Use the Perle cotton to do this and the holes that you made in the end earlier. (See Pic A.) Put the basket outer together by sewing the pieces but do not sew into the seam allowance at the bottom. This ensures nice sharp corners. Begin at the very top but stop 0.5cm from the bottom each time. For the base, avoid the seam allowance on all corners. Sew the lining together as you did the outer, again avoiding the seam allowance. Leave a turning gap in the lining along one long side of the bottom. With the outer the RS out and the lining inside out, pull the lining on over the outer and get all of the
If you havenâ€™t got a die-cutting machine, download a clear font, cut out by hand and use this as a template
corners perfect. Sew all around the top edge, leaving no gaps. Turn the RS out through the gap in the base and then close the gap. Push the lining down into the basket and arrange the top edge so that it is perfect. Top-stitch around the top edge. Define the corners with a few stitches with the Perle cotton to finish. (See Pic B.)
The Old Stables 17-23 Poplar Road Kings Heath Birmingham B14 7AA T: 0121 443 5555 E: email@example.com
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Lots of honest, helpful and friendly advice. Around 100 sewing machines and overlockers on show, ready for demonstration. We stock Bernina, Bernette, Brother, Elna, Husqvarna, Janome, Juki and Singer machines. Creative free-machine embroidery workshops with Claire Muir. We have an extensive range of Horn cabinets and chairs on display. We also do machine accessories, software, dress forms and workshops. Free customer car park.
Request your free fabric catalogue today!
or visit the shop
This month we take a look at the fantastic range of Brother sewing machines stocked by Frank Nutt. Find out more at www. franknutt.co.uk
BEST FOR THE ALL ROUNDERS
BROTHER INNOV-IS 27SE SEWING MACHINE Perfectly suited for beginner to advanced sewists, the Brother Innov-is 27SE offers heaps of versatility for taking on everyday sewing projects. The machine hosts an impressive list of features such as 50 built-in stitches – including five buttonhole styles – which can be accessed easily via the electronic jog dial. The high-definition LCD screen provides information about the chosen stitch and enables you to make modifications to stitch sizes at the touch of a button. Sewists will appreciate a quick and easy set-up and fluid sewing experience with the help of the automatic needle threader, quick-set top-loading bobbin and handy drop feed system for free-motion stitching.
BEST FOR CREATIVE TYPES
BROTHER INNOV-IS NV1300 If you’re keen to stretch your skills and broaden your creative horizons the Brother Innov-is NV1300 is the perfect sewing companion. Offering a generous workspace and a knee lift to manipulate the presser foot, this machine makes working on larger projects a breeze. Add unique designs to your fabric by taking your pick of a wide range of decorative stitches that can be adjusted and saved to the machine’s memory card so you can pick up where you left off. Brother’s Square Feed Drive system guarantees the smooth feeding through of fabric, giving you a precise and professional finish. This really is a great machine for encouraging sewists to channel their creativity and make unique pieces for themselves or the home.
£900 BEST FOR ADVANCED SEWISTS
BROTHER INNOV-IS NV2600 You’ll never tire of trying out all of the incredible gadgets on this machine. Featuring over 200 built-in stitches, 138 built-in embroidery designs, built-in monograms and 10 buttonhole styles, this intuitive machine offers sewists artistic freedom and the means of creating a variety of makes to a professional standard. Use the impressive touchscreen to edit the in-built embroidery designs to suit the shape and size of your projects, there are also 10 frame shapes and 14 border styles to aid your design customisation. Enjoy hours of uninterrupted sewing as the machine automatically adjusts the thread tension to suit your fabric and continuously monitors fabric thickness to ensure greater stitch quality. Sewists will also appreciate the hands-free knee lift which can be used to raise and lower the presser foot should you be working on larger projects.
£2,000 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 33
RUNWAY We’ve rounded up six fabulous designer patterns brought to you by the team at Vogue Patterns
Wear the trousers
The great cover up
We love the relaxed vibes of this classic cover-up top from Elizabeth Gillett NYC. It will work in all kinds of fabric like chiffon, georgette, crepe and cotton lawn. Vogue 9323, one size fits all, £14.
Breeze into the warmer weather with statement trousers. Pick a bold print and turn all eyes onto you! We love the impeccable print matching by Sandra Betzina on the envelope version. Vogue 1580, all sizes in one envelope, £14.
Go for bold This pattern pack from Anne Klein is a two for one treat; try the chic banded blouse or tapered trousers. We love the safari sleeve tabs and hidden placket on the top. V1509 sizes 6-14 and 14-22, £15.
Nicola Finetti has created a vision in white with this multi-garment pattern. Make a chic jumpsuit and layer the romantic frill-sleeve tunic over the top! Vogue 1538, sizes 6-14 and 14-22, £15.
All for one
Jumpsuits can be so versatile! We love this widelegged version from Rebecca Vallance. The tie-up back and chic shoulder straps make it a great summer staple. Vogue 1591, sizes 6-14 and 14-22, £15.
It's a tie!
Look and feel great in this loose-fit dress by Rebecca Taylor. It's cinched with a matching tie to define your waist without being tied too tight, making this the perfect dress for a sticky day. Vogue 1395, sizes 8-16 and 16-24, £15.
Atelier Saint Clare
Haute Couture Embroidery workshops Tambour Beading
New fabrics added every week
sewoverit.co.uk/shop ÂŁ2.50 UK P&P 0207 326 0376 FREE for orders ÂŁ75+ 36 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Embrace the animal kingdom and all its charming critters with our selection of wild and wonderful prints
Kerry Kerry Green is co-author of 500 Quilt Blocks and is a contributor to many other books and magazines. Find sewing tips, free tutorials, patterns and more at Kerryâ€™s blog www. verykerryberry.blogspot.co.uk
nimal prints always seem to fly out of the shops â€“ from woodland creatures to wildlife safari, we canâ€™t get enough of them! Dashwood Studioâ€™s Chalk Hill collection features graphic-style prints, including foxes, on its new cotton/linen substrate. It has a wide width, good drape and a bit of body to it â€“ suitable for clothing or smaller projects like cushions and bags. The aqua forest bears and golden cheetahs are on similar lightweight canvas. For something a little softer, Lion Love from Higgs and Higgs is from a collection of cute modern childrenâ€™s cotton prints and is also on wide fabric. Moda has an appealing animal-themed panel as part of its Savannah range designed by Gingiber. Each panel includes a variety of line-drawn wild animals in two sizes of ready-to-cut boxes â€“ ideal for fussy cuts and quilt block centres. Simple traditional quilt blocks often work well with modern prints. Barbara Brackman has a useful tutorial on her blog at www.civilwarquilts.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/14-fox-and-geese.html
Chalk Hill, Foxes, Louise Brainwood for Dashwood Studio, cotton/linen blend, ÂŁ4.25 per FQ, www.eternalmaker.com Lion Love, in blue, ÂŁ2.75 per FQ, www.higgsandhiggs.com Enchanted Forest, White Happy Hedgehogs, by Betsy Olmsted for Windham Fabrics, ÂŁ3.75 per FQ, www. oliveandflohandcraft.co.uk Serengeti Paw Prints in Olive by Elena Essex for Dashwood Studio, ÂŁ3.50 per 0.5m www.thelittlekraftshed.co.uk Capsules Campsite, Among the Pines, Art Gallery Fabrics, ÂŁ3.50 per FQ, www. oliveandflohandcraft.co.uk Around Town, Cheetahs in natural canvas, by Sarah Golden for Andover Fabrics, cotton/linen blend, lightweight canvas, ÂŁ4.80 per FQ, www.misformake.co.uk Savannah, Critters Galore Panel in charcoal, by Gingiber for Moda, ÂŁ9 per 112x61cm panel, www.backstitch.co.uk Japanese Canvas, Forest Life on Aqua, Cosmo Textiles, ÂŁ3.85 per FQ, www.eclecticmaker.co.uk
CAMERA ready This cute make-up case has a cheeky slogan that will get you ready for your close up! You're going to love how quick this is to make
MATERIALS & TOOLS: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
FQ denim FQ pretty floral fabric FQ co-ordinating lining FQ H630 Vlieseline fusible wadding 23cm navy metal zipper contrasting topstitching thread denim machine needle gold iron-on foil Sizzix Big Shot manual die-cutting machine 2 alphabet dies (one block & one cursive style) motif die (we used a hashtag from the alphabet set) 0.5x9cm tan leather scrap leather hole punch fabric glue templates provided on pattern sheet or downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER www.sallyandcraftyvamp.blogspot.co.uk
HOW TO MAKE:
Seam allowances are 0.5cm (1/4”) unless otherwise stated
1 Make the front and back exactly the same and at the same time. 2 Cut two 33x16cm pieces of denim and two 33x11cm pieces of floral fabric. Sew the floral to the bottom of the denim, press and interface both on the back with H630. 3 Position the template on the panels and place the horizontal line on the fabric join. Cut out the front and the back including the darts. 4 Cut two pieces of lining using the same template. Remember to cut the darts. 5 Prepare the zipper next. Cut a piece of straight binding from the floral fabric
A denim needle and good quality thread are essential to get through all the layers of this project
measuring 5cm wide x 10cm long. This will be more than enough to do both ends of the zip and the excess can be cut away. 6 Cut the binding in half and bind each end of the zip. The zip is now 26cm long from end to end and ready to use. I find it easiest to machine-sew the front and finish the back by hand. A tiny amount of fabric glue helps to keep things from moving around too. 7 Top-stitch along the denim and the floral, each side of the seam. Practise with the denim thread and needle on a spare piece to get your stitch length right; you’ll want to set your
stitch length a bit longer, eg 2.8mm. Then go slow and steady to get it perfect on the bag – it will stand out for the wrong reasons if you wobble. 8 Die-cut the letters to make the words ‘be selfie ready’ – mixing fonts gives the best effect. Cut your chosen image too. 9 Find the vertical centre of the bag front and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to apply the letters approximately 2.5cm from the top edge. Make a zipper sandwich with one outer panel and a piece of lining. Pin and then sew along the length of the zip from the end of the binding on the zipper to the
MASTERCLASS other end. This is quite important for the smooth running of the bag finish. Mark it with a removable marker so that you donâ€™t go over. Repeat on the other side and then flip the lining and the outers over to reveal the zipper and then with co-ordinating thread, top-stitch again, only working from bound end to bound end of the zip. Sew the darts for each inner and the outer fabric piece at this stage. Open the zip part way (if you forget to do this you will have to unpick the next step).
With the RST, pin outer to outer and lining to lining. Sew around the perimeter, leaving a turning gap in the lining. Turn out through the gap and close it. Stuff the lining down into the bag. (See Pic A.) Make a zipper pull embellishment with the scrap of leather. Thread it through the zipper pull and use the punch to make a hole through both pieces very close to the zipper pull. (See Pic B.) Stitch in place with navy thread to finish.
Lorna says... This is a great way to use up leftover fabric from your other projects, and the slogan options are endless!
When you see an arrow-shaped dart with the centre cut open it can be a little scary, but this is a great way to reduce bulk in your finished project. Pretend the dart is actually a seam; fold the dart in half so the raw edges align and then sew parallel to the edge at the specified seam allowance. This works best when the raw dart edges are going to be covered by lining and won't be at risk of fraying. This is something to consider if you're tempted to trim the darts on your handmade garments.
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A BRIEF HISTORY OF
Affectionately labelled as â€˜modern vintageâ€™, the Cath Kidston brand remains as iconic as ever, 25 years after opening its first store
A brief history of
CATH KIDSTON www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 41
© Featureflash photo agency
he name Cath Kidston is instantly recognisable to shoppers and sewists alike, offering an eclectic collection of prints across everything from fabric to homeware. 2018 sees the company celebrate its 25th year of trading and a quarter of a century of instantly recognisable products and designs, making it the perfect time to take a look back on the brand and how it has become such a national treasure.
Cath Kidston grew up in Hampshire, where she revelled in the English countryside and gained her first taste of business, selling vegetables from her aunt’s garden to passersby outside her house. Early memories of her childhood home proved to be the beginning of her creative journey, planting the design seeds of what would eventually grow into Cath’s own distinctive style. Cath describes her bedroom as having “pale blue walls and striped rosebud curtains” and her playroom as reflecting an “overblown chintz” aesthetic, motifs and colours she has referred to throughout her career. Cath moved to London when she was 18 and got stuck into a number of creative roles, including working for an antique fabric dealer and alongside interior designer Nicky Haslam. In 1987, Cath made her first foray into retail and opened a small curtain shop called McKinny Kidston with a friend. The ‘Eureka moment’ came when Cath was flicking through a magazine and stopped to take a closer look at a simple bathroom setting. It had a classic tub but with pretty rose wallpaper, demonstrating how the combination of old and new could work well alongside one another and tie in with the trend for laidback, timeless interior décor. The concept of ‘modern vintage’ was starting to come together but Cath needed to find a new outlet for her design ideas.
Whitby Waters frame backpack, £55 www.cathkidston.com
The race was on to find a store that Cath could really stamp her identity on. In 1993, Cath found a tiny shop near Holland Park and Notting Hill and set about making it her own. She had a start-up budget of £15,000, of which a third was invested
All items from the Cath Kidston anniversary collection
in her first print, the classic Rose Bouquet, inspired by a traditional floral wallpaper. As well as her own fabric, Cath used vintage fabric and embellishments to sew cushion covers, cotton bags and ironing board covers all with her colourful, fresh aesthetic. “When I set up Cath Kidston in a small shop in Holland Park in 1993 I had no idea what a journey the company would take me on,” Cath admits.
Antique Rose cotton, £20 per metre www.cathkidston.com
With a mix of fabric, wallpaper, handmade items and carefully curated second-hand and upcycled Park Wildlife cotton, homeware, the store was ticking £20 per metre along nicely but not growing at www.cathkidston.com the pace Cath was hoping for. To get the Cath Kidston brand seen by a larger audience, the business began exhibiting at small trade fairs and wholesale avenues emerged as more and more shops expressed an interest in stocking the products.
© Photography: Ron Ellis/Shutterstock.com
This led to a lot more publicity, and the collection of signature floral prints evolved to feature spots, stars and novelty prints like the lovable cowboy character. As well as expanding the number of prints, oilcloth was added to the cotton fabric range – opening up a new world of bag styles and homeware design options.
Mornington Leaves cotton, £20 per metre www.cathkidston.com
By 1999 Cath Kidston had opened new stores across London and over the next three years it was involved in many brand collaborations, licensed lines and launched a number of new print designs (including some based on Cath’s dog Stanley!). The business was growing at an incredible rate and with more offers, collaborations and partnership opportunities arriving, Cath realised that she needed some expert help and financial support from investors. “When you’re self taught, you always wonder when you’ll be found out,” she explains. Cath sold the majority share in the business and it expanded out of London, opening a store in Bath in 2005, followed shortly by other shops in cities across the UK such as Brighton, York and Edinburgh. In 2006, Cath Kidston took the decision to take the brand overseas and opened a store in Tokyo, Japan. The brand was a great fit for Japanese shoppers, who quickly fell in love with the chintzy prints, heritage colours and iconic motifs. There are now over 100 international stores in countries such as Korea, Spain, Malaysia and China.
Cath Kidston's 'modern vintage' style remains as clear as ever
When I set up Cath Kidston in a small shop in Holland Park in 1993 I had no idea what a journey the company would take me on
Today, Cath Kidston sells an evergrowing list of items, including adult and children’s clothing, accessories, homeware, toiletries, stationery, craft books and, of course, lots of lovely fabric! There are over 200 stores worldwide in 16 countries, with more shops overseas than in the UK, proving that the modern vintage style is as popular as ever with customers at home and abroad.
We used the Whitby Waters cotton duck for this issue’s McCall’s M7714 dress on
FIND OUT MORE Discover more about Cath Kidston and her iconic brand, product range and growing fabric collection at www.cathkidston.com
PAGE 21 Introduce some 'cool' Britannia into your home
Rutland Sewing Unit 1a Rutland Village, Ashwell Road, Oakham, Rutland LE15 7QN Tel 01572 756468 www.rutlandsewing@ btconnect.com Ample free parking Very close to picturesque Rutland Water Coffee shop on site Classes and workshops Also training for sewing machines, Pfaff embroidery machines, Premier Plus Software & all makes of overlockers Open Tuesday to Saturday 9am – 5pm Sunday 10am – 4pm Closed Mondays
clothbound makers of exquisite pressing tools
CHOOSE FROM A WIDE SELECTION OF HAMS TO SUIT YOUR SEWING NEEDS CUSTOMERS ORDERS ALSO UNDERTAKEN
15% OFF with code SEW15
www.clothbound.co.uk e: firstname.lastname@example.org
Start at the
TOP The easy-fit Zadie boxy top is great for throwing on with jeans while getting all your errands done Project CLAIRE GARSIDE Simple Sew
Shopping list Dear Stella Blossom Triangles cotton, Â£3.50 per FQ www.oliveandflohandcraft.co.uk
Why not get scrap-busting and use different fabric from your stash to create a dramatic mixed top of prints and solids?
CUTTING: 45"-wide fabric
MATERIALS & TOOLS:
• 1.4m of 45”-wide or 1.1m of 60”-wide cotton fabric • 50cm of lightweight fusible interfacing • co-ordinating thread • templates provided on pattern sheet or downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
NOTES: Seam allowance is 1.5cm unless otherwise instructed
HOW TO MAKE: 1 Neaten the seam allowance of the back
bodice panels, at the centre back and with RST sew together at this edge. Press the seam open. (See Pic A.) 2 Repeat for the front bodice panels and press the seam open. 3 Top-stitch the CF and CB, a few mm on each side of the seam, securing the seam allowance underneath. 4 With RST join the assembled front and back at the shoulders. Press the shoulder seam open and neaten each shoulder line edge using zigzag stitch or an overlocker. (See Pic B.) 5 Apply interfacing to the facing WS of the facing pieces. Then with RST join front and back facing at the shoulder seam. Press the shoulder seam on the facing open and neaten the outer edge of the facing using zigzag stitch or an overlocker. (See Pic C.) 6 Position the facing and top RST at the neckline, matching the shoulder seams. Sew in place using a 1cm seam allowance. 7 Clip and notch the curved seam allowance, taking care not to snip into the stitching line. (See Pic D.) Press the facing over to the inside of the garment. 8 Top-stitch the neckline 3cm from the neckline edge, sewing through all the layers. 9 Fold the cuff in half WST at the long edge and, with the top opened out on your worktop, attach to armhole, matching the raw edges.
Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or on an overlocker. (See Pic E.) Press the cuff over beyond the armhole, with the seam allowance pressed towards the top. Top-stitch around the armhole, securing the seam allowance to the top. Sew the side seams, starting at the hem and finishing at the cuff hem. Neaten seam allowance on each side then press the seams open. (See Pic F.) The underarm seam might need you to release the tension on the fabric by cutting into the seam allowance. Two snips should do it and take care not to snip into the stitching line. Finish the raw lower edge of the top then press the hem up by 2cm and secure with a topstitch to finish.
Dress HACK This classic boxy top makes a great dress too. 1 To extend the pattern, gather some extra pattern paper, extend the centre edges of the front and back by the required amount for your height (ie adding 60cm to create a kneelength tunic dress. 2 Next draw a new hem line at a right angle to the centre line about 40cm long. 3 To join the side seam lines, draw a slightly curved line over the hip point and straighten off before reaching the hem. 4 Ensure the front and back match in length by laying the pieces on top of each other and matching the side seams.
MATERIALS & TOOLS: • • • • • • • • • •
150cm-square tie-dyed panel 1m tie-dyed fabric for the back 1m contrast fabric for the back 40cm navy fabric for bias binding 170cm square Vlieseline #279 80/20 cotton-mix wadding 2-3 50g balls yellow cotton yarn for tassels gold iron-on foil Sizzix Big Shot manual die-cutting machine Sizzix Bigz Tim Holtz Alterations Cutout Upper Alphabet die set Sizzix Bigz Craft Asylum Ethnic Elements die set
NOTES: Seam allowances are 0.5cm (1/4”) unless otherwise stated You can of course use regular main fabric but we recommend tiedyeing an old duvet cover, sheet or tablecloth as a fun extra project
HOW TO MAKE: 1 Begin by making the bias binding from the navy fabric. You need 6.3m. Cut 3.5cmwide strips on the bias and then join them together at right angles to form a long strip. Fold in half lengthways and press and then fold the raw edges into the centre and press again. Set to one side. 2 For the tassels, cut a 10x6cm piece of cardboard and wrap the yellow yarn around it approximately 25 times. 3 Tie off the top and cut from the bottom. 4 Now tie a ‘waist’ about 2cm down from the top. Take the two middle threads and stitch them into the middle of the tassel for extra security. (See masterclass on page 49.)
PICNIC This groovy picnic blanket mixes cool blue and popping yellow for an eye-catching design Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER
A my says...
Impress your friends at your next summer picnic with this fabulous tie-dye creation!
TASSELS Wrap the yarn 25 times.
Tie off the top.
Cut the bottom free.
Tie a waist 2cm from the top and stitch the threads into the tassel.
Make another 31 of these ready to attach to the edge of the quilt. Ensure the top panel measures 150cm square with the middle of the tie-dye design in the centre of the panel. For the back, cut 24 yellow 25cm squares and 25 blue 25cm squares. Sew them together in an alternating chequerboard pattern. Press the seams open as you work. The back of the quilt will be larger than the front. Make a quilt sandwich with the pieced back (face down), the wadding and the top (centred and face up).
Quilt the blanket with a simple font to print so that your favourite design. We there is not too much fussy used a diagonal random detail to navigate when wave, which is easy to do on cutting out. Arrange the words in a large a normal sewing machine. Trim the edges to match circle (draw a chalk circle as a and round the corners with guide if needed) and fuse the a coffee cup or similar. Bind letters in place following the with navy bias binding on manufacturerâ€™s instructions. your machine by attaching it Always cut the letters upside to the reverse of the blanket down if using a Sizzix Bigz die first then folding over to the front and top-stitching into place. Tuck under the ends for a nice neat finish. Use the alphabet die and the manual die-cutting machine to cut the Bias binding tools make words â€˜let folding and pressing selfthe sunshine made bias tape a breeze, inâ€™ from gold and they come in a foil. Cut the range of widths spacer motifs too â€“ in this case an arrow. You can hand-cut the letters if you prefer. If you do decide to do this, choose
so they will be the right way when you apply them. Aim to have a circle large enough to fit the sentence three times with a motif between each time. To finish, attach the tassels by hand so they are equally spaced around the edge with seven on each side and one on each corner.
FABRIC FABRIC Embroidered PU jacket ÂŁ60 www.jdwilliams.co.uk
Zip up, Rooting look sharp
Pick up some new blossoming with your Personalise thisprints spring-summer exclusive discount from biker jacket with our pick of Crafterâ€™s Companion sturdy yet stylish fabric 33
on the Threaders fabric range from 23rd June until 2nd August 2018 by entering the code LOVESEWING30 at checkout www.crafters companion.co.uk
Flower Power tiered dress from Girls on Film
Fabric shopping shopping Fabric Threaders Home Grown Delicate Petals (Yellow) Threaders Cottage Garden Fabric English Country House (Grey) Threaders Loving Flower Bank Threaders Home Grown Delicate (Grey) Copper Eco leatherette, Cognac ÂŁ15 per metreMeadow www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk 0.55mm-thick leatherPetals skin, ÂŁ17 per 5ft square www. Threaders Home Grown Funky Cactus Threaders Cottage Garden Rose Blossom pittards.com Burgundy leatherette, ÂŁ6 per metre www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk Mama pink 0.7mm-thick(Grey) leather skin, ÂŁ17 per 5ft square www.pittards.com SpotAll print mid-blue denim, at ÂŁ8.99 per metre www.abakhan.co.uk Shell pink soft faux suede, ÂŁ9.80 per ÂŁ11.98 per metre www.crafterscompanion.co.uk metre www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk 50 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
We offer a variety of premium fabrics: Cottons • Silks Wool • Rayon Patterned & Prints End of Roll remnant pieces and much more
our print or patterned fabric when you spend over £20 Use our online code PRINT20 upon checkout, be quick this offer expires 25.07.2018. Or alternatively call us on 0116 3266477
To view our extensive range of premium fabrics visit
CRAFTY SEW & SO Leicester
Crafty Sew & So aims to inspire everyone who walks through the door to pick up a new hobby or develop their skills in an old one. It offers workshops in a wide range of crafts and is excited to bring you new and exciting products. www.craftysewandso.com
MINISTRY OF CRAFT MANCHESTER
With locations in crafters' paradise Fred Aldous in Manchester’s Northern Quarter and Crafts and Makes in Didsbury, the Ministry tutors teach a huge variety of fun, friendly and sociable workshops for all tastes and abilities. 07740 860390 email@example.com www.ministryofcraft.co.uk
28TH JULY Sew your own kimono A kimono is perfect for swanning around the house, covering up in the sun or channelling your inner bohemian at festivals, but this lovely floaty fabric is notoriously tricky to sew! We’ve designed a course to help you to sew your ideal kimono-style garment, no matter what your sewing ability. Cost: £57.50
Book yourself in to one of this month’s top workshops and expand your sewing horizons
13TH JULY Sew a sun-ray bag
27TH JULY Zips masterclass
Make a panelled shoulder bag with plaited straps ideal for holidays to take you from beach-to-bar or perfect as an eye-catching everyday handbag. In this workshop you will learn how to apply interfacing, how to make a lined bag, create a plaited handle and insert extra-large eyelets and other hardware. All materials are included in the cost. Cost: £70
This skills masterclass will help you to improve your sewing skills and techniques. Through demonstrations and practical hands-on experience, you will learn three simple ways for inserting a regular zip (for skirts and dresses), an invisible/concealed zip (for homewares and dressmaking) and a tab-ended zip (for cushion covers and bags). You will leave with samples and instructions for all three techniques and lots of confidence to put zips in all your future makes! Cost: £30
22ND JULY My Handmade Wardrobe Everyday Amazing shift dress or top Make a simple curved hem top or dress with this easy pattern. The pattern includes features suitable for beginners and improving dressmakers alike. The semi-fitted style looks great worn loose for a summer look or belted over tights on cooler days. This workshop will equip you with essential skills you will use in many makes to come! Suitable for UK sizes 8-22. Cost: £60
10TH AUGUST Introduction to patchwork and quilting A great introduction to the basics of patchwork and quilting, this will teach you easy ways to measure, cut and sew your first patchwork project, or pick up tips and tricks to develop your skills. Cost: £30
28TH JULY Sew your own wiggle dress Free your inner bombshell and sew this seriously sexy wiggle dress to flatter your womanly curves. Choose to make either a sleeveless shift-style dress or one with a flattering mid-length sleeve and make the ultimate garment to flatter your figure. You’ll learn how to use a pattern block, sew double point darts, insert sleeves or add a sleeve facing, add a neck facing, put in an invisible zip and finish hems perfectly. Cost: £87.50
28TH JULY Sew your own Capri trousers Look every inch the cool cat in your own handmade, perfectly fitted Capri pants. You’re already no stranger to a sewing machine but by the end of this
course you’ll be able to sew waist darts, put in a waist facing, sew in a clever invisible side zip, and conjure a lovely fitted, tapered leg. What’s more, you’ll get a professional finish while learning to use one of our Janome overlockers. Cost: £67.50
JANOME TRAINING SCHOOL Stockport, Cheshire
Janome has a fantastic range of classes that will enable you to broaden your skills and meet like-minded sewists in a friendly environment. All classes are £70 per day, please book direct with tutor unless otherwise stated. Tutor details can be found on the website. www.janome.co.uk
17TH JULY Half-scale dressmaking with Celia Banks Get to grips with darted tops, facings and princess line patterns by making several simple outfits for the previously completed dress form. However, it is not vital that you have a dress form to work with. During the day you will learn how to sew a simple darted top and then rework it into a princess line top. You can work on a basic skirt pattern and then change the pattern to create several other designs. All materials provided.
18TH JULY Half-scale dressmaking – developing patterns with Celia Banks Discover how to redevelop a pattern into several wardrobe basics using half scale patterns. Once you have a basic jacket pattern that fits you can redesign the pattern to create a coat or a waistcoat, a pattern with different collars and sleeves, add or remove waistlines and learn how to create lining patterns for unlined garments.
19TH JULY Half-scale dressmaking – learn the basics of dress designing by draping fabric on the stand with Celia Banks During this one-day workshop you will use the previously completed half-scale dress form to learn the basics of dress designing by draping fabric. Learn how to set the grain and to fold, pleat and drape fabric to create your own designs. Then discover how to transfer the information from each draped design to create a paper pattern in fashion fabric. You will also learn how to resize half-scale designs into full scale ones.
STARTING 25TH AND 26TH SEPTEMBER Evening class 7.30-9.30pm nine weeks Our dressmaking classes are suitable for all students with a desire to learn or develop their clothes-making abilities. Students may work on any project of their choosing although it is advisable to bring along a pattern utilising new techniques. Cost: £112.50
STARTING 26TH SEPTEMBER Daytime class 9.30am-12.30pm nine weeks Can’t do evenings? These longer, threehour sessions are great for completing lots of projects. Cost: £170
SEW SEW FABRICS Bexleyheath, Kent
If you’re thinking about learning to sew or perfecting new skills come along to our classes. Spaces are limited to ensure everyone gets the most possible from the experience. For full details and to book visit the website. www.sewsewfabrics.co.uk
will need to bring your overlocker to the class and any instructions you received with your machine. All other materials will be provided. Cost: £25
11TH NOVEMBER Free-motion embroidery 10am-4pm Machines and all equipment are provided for this class that will cover the techniques required to get you started with free-motion machine embroidery with teacher Stacey Chapman. Cost: £75
LAST THURSDAY OF THE MONTH Block of the month 7-9pm
30TH SEPTEMBER Overlocker class 12-3pm Bought an overlocker and too scared to get it out of the box? Are you worried about changing the thread? This class is the perfect start for anyone new to the world of overlockers. You will learn to thread and use your machine under the guidance of our experienced teacher. You
Each month, we will learn to make a different block with the possibility to put them all together at the end of the year to make a sampler quilt. The price of the class includes use of our precision-cutting machine and instructions to keep. 12 month class £120 per person or pay as you go for £12.50 per session www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 53
Rooftop Fabrics are proud to offer an every expanding range of fabrics, including: Plush, Cottons, and other specialist items. Tel: 01420 260036 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
Free UK delivery with code
Presenting a beautiful collection of fabrics and patterns from Sew Over It, Tilly And The Buttons, Atelier Brunette, Aime Comme Marie, Kimsa, Art Gallery, Lady McElroy, See You At Six, Soft Cactus and many more!
fabulous fabrics, haberdashery, sewing machines, workshops & sew much more 20-22 Lavant Street, Petersfield, Hampshire, GU32 3EW
T: 01730 858 020 E: email@example.com
Temptations Craft Boutique An Aladdin's cave full of fabrics including Cotton Poplins, Linens, Wool Tweeds & Polyesters 100% Cottons for Patchwork and Quilting Knitting yarn and haberdashery Courses and workshops Agents for Brother Sewing Machines Visit our shop or buy safely online 31 Main Street, Bentham, North Yorkshire, LA2 7HQ Tel: 015242 61868 www.temptationsbentham.co.uk For shop opening times please see our website
Pretty sewing goodies, patterns, tools and the chance to win some gorgeous fabric from your favourite suppliers
WIN A SASHIKO to2win STARTER KIT
Two lucky readers will win a Sashiko starter kit from Sew Easy! Originating in Japan, sashiko is a running stitch technique related most closely to embroidery. This kit contains all the materials needed for creating a 40cmsquare standard cushion cover – you’ll receive dark blue cotton, four assorted pattern templates and a 40m skein of pure cotton embroidery thread in white. There is also a fabric pencil and a pack of embroidery needles – all you need is the cushion pad! Sew Easy products are available nationwide from craft, haberdashery and sewing suppliers. For stockist information, email groves@ email stockistenquiries.co.uk
WIN A BUNDLE
OF SEWING BAGS Organisation is truly in the bag with this incredible bundle of prizes courtesy of Groves. One lucky reader will win a bundle of sewing bags from the Hobby Gift range which will include two matt PVC sewing bags to help you carry your sewing machine and projects with ease and style, as well as two square sewing boxes for keeping all your precious notions organised at home. Each of the bags features cool pastel tones and an adorable dog print. For stockist information, contact firstname.lastname@example.org or call 01453 883581.
Worth over £100!
WIN a copy of the Royal School of Needlework Book of Embroidery WIN A SIMPLE SEW PATTERN BUNDLE
One lucky reader will win a selection of Simple Sew patterns! Top up your pattern stash with five versatile patterns including a classic sweatshirt, button-back dress and high-waisted trousers. To see more of the fantastic Simple Sew patterns range, visit www.simplesewpatterns.com
Worth over £50!
Keen to brush up on your embroidery? We have six copies of Book of Embroidery: A guide to essential stitches, techniques and projects (Search Press, £25) to give away! Featuring an impressive range of stitches and projects, this book covers many principle techniques including crewelwork, goldwork, whitework and silk shading. If you want an embroidery reference with trusted content that will give you excellent grounding for this craft, this certainly warrants a place on your bookshelf. To see more impressive titles from Search Press, visit www.searchpress.com
Turn over for many more discounts & pri zes www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 55
WIN A BUNDLE OF POMPOM MAKERS!
The lovely team at Clover is offering three lucky readers a bundle of pompom makers in various sizes. Enjoy hours of fun crafting vibrant pompoms for a multitude of projects; why not add a bobble to your winter accessories or a colourful addition to your favourite bag? The creative opportunities are endless! Clover products are available nationwide from all good craft, knitting and hobby shops. For stockist information, contact email@example.com or call 01453 883581.
3 to win
WIN A COPY OF SWEETLY STITCHED HANDMADES
We have six copies of Sweetly Stitched Handmades: 18 Projects to Sew for You and Your Loved Ones by Amy Sinibaldi (Tuva Publishing). Discover 18 wonderful embroidery and patchwork projects that would make perfect gifts for family and friends. Sinibaldi shares useful advice and techniques and includes a variety of projects suited to beginner to advanced sewists. Projects include a modern colour block quilt, jam jar pincushion, stacked hexagon mug rug and a starburst Dresden plate pillow. To see more great titles from Tuva, visit www.tuvapublishing.com
WIN A HONEYCOMB SHIRT AND DRESS PATTERN
4 to win
CocoWawa Crafts has launched the new Honeycomb Shirt and Dress pattern and we have four digital patterns to give away! Pair your favourite jeans with the gathered peplum shirt or opt for the midi-length dress in a lightweight fabric for a floaty feminine look. The straps can be easily amended to suit your preferred fit and there are various sleeve lengths available to see you through the seasons as well as a Mandarin or stand-up collar option. The digital pattern is £10 and the printed version is £14, visit www.cocowawacrafts. com to find out more.
WIN A BUNDLE
OF VOGUE PATTERNS Love vintage style? We have a wonderful bundle of Vogue Vintage patterns to give away to one lucky reader this month. These beautifully elegant designs are perfect for portraying classic vintage style at its best. The bundle includes three dress patterns with sleeve variations to see you through the seasons and plenty of impressive details to really help you stretch your skills. To see more patterns from the range, visit voguepatterns.mccall.com
WIN A HAERAE DESIGN
ARCHIVE FAT QUARTER BUNDLE We having a stunning fat quarter bundle to give away to one lucky reader! With a calming pastel colour palette and prints of animals and nature, these 100% organic cotton prints are an absolute must for your fabric stash. The Haerae Design Archive collection includes specially selected prints from a range of designers and is a great option for dressmaking and soft furnishing projects. For more information, visit www.hantexonline.co.uk
SAVE 20% at Fabrics for Sale with the code LOVESEW55. www.fabricsforsale.co.uk SAVE 30% on Threaders fabric at Crafter’s Companion with the code LOVESEWING30 www.crafterscompanion.co.uk SAVE 20% at Lamazi Fabrics with the code LOVESEWING (excludes sale items and the minimum order value is £20), visit www. lamazifabrics.com Offers valid until 2nd August 2018 on full-priced items only
WIN A BUNDLE
OF SEWING TOOLS FROM PRYM Brighten up your sewing kit with this fabulous prize from Prym. The lovely team is offering one lucky reader a vibrant set of tools from Prym’s Love range. Along with a handy Prym click box to store all your items in, you’ll win textile scissors, a thread cutter, corner and edge shaper, chalk wheel, magnetic pincushion with glass-headed pins, needle twister, pompom set and more! Phew! Prym is a leading provider of sewing and needlework supplies, make sure you check out its fantastic range of products at www.prym.com
WIN A PIPPI
Combine classic and contemporary style by trying your hand at the flattering new Pippi Pinafore pattern from Jennifer Lauren Handmade. We have five digital patterns to give away! This dress looks wonderfully chic and includes some great features to really help you stretch your skills. The pattern includes deep patch pockets, side button fastening and a fitted bib that can be easily amended to suit your shape and create a flattering finish. Opt for lightweight fabric like chambray or linen to see you through the warmer months or layer up with a wool, corduroy or denim version in winter. The pattern is available in digital format for $12.99 (approximately £9.77) from www.jenniferlauren handmade.store
WIN a bundle of Whitehaven fabric If you’re searching for fabric that will evoke a gentle sea breeze and idyllic scenery then Whitehaven by Feena Brooks certainly fits the bill, and we have a fabric sample pack to give away to one lucky reader. Her new collection of canvas fabric is released in partnership with Cloud9 and comprises 12 lovely prints that are perfect for soft furnishings and other small craft projects. To find out more, visit www.cloud9fabrics.com
HOW TO ENTER
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9 Fresh ideas for you and your home Issue 22 9 . 8 on sale 1 ÂŁ now!
dress pattern tie-back top pattern In sizes XS-XL Fun granny square cushion
Stylish water carrier
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Lorna asked you on Facebook…
DLE FABRIC BUN VA FROM MINER CRAFTS
Have you ever sewn a swimsuit? Cassie
“I tried out the McCall’s 7547 dungarees pattern from issue 53. I made some adjustments to make the shorts longer and looser and used all the pockets. You can never have too many pockets!” – Great job, Cassie!
A: Yes, I’ve done it! B: No, but I’d like to try it. C: Oh my goodness, never!
A 29% B 44% C 27%
This Star Wars-inspired dress looks incredible! Bonnie used a duvet cover and the Threadcount 1501 pattern (a cover gift from issue 22!). #maytheforcebewithyou
Sandra looks fab ulous in her hom esewn top, she sa id: “I made this sim ply by taking my ow n measurements as featured in Lo ve Sewing 53. Th e crinkly fabric he lped with fit issue s and I have since made two more in black for myself and my daughter .”
You said... Chantal: A. Yes, four swimsuits and a bikini in a two-week stretch before my beach holiday last month. Tania: A. Yep, I did it when I was at school, and they were the best I ever owned.
Anna has done an amazing job of adapting the Butterick 5926 pattern that was featured in issue 49. This jacket is perfect for light layering during the summer.
Maria looks lovely in her Threadcount dress that was featured in issue 22. We love the fabric she has chosen.
Kate: B. I’m planning to make the Sophie swimsuit from Closet Case patterns. Amélie: C! I don’t think I’ll ever be brave enough to try that! Gemma: A. It’s one of my favourite things! It was a real experience sewing with Lycra for the first time! www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 59
ASK THE EXPERTS
STITCHER If you're looking for a sewing challenge this summer, why not try a DIY swimsuit? ClaireLouise shares her top tips for a flawless finish
Try the Ipswich swimsuit & bikini from Cashmerette Patterns
ABOUT CLAIRE-LOUISE Claire-Louise is an author, pattern designer, teacher and costumier. We recommend Claire-Louise's latest course www.learntosewwithapro. com/ultimate-beginners Claire-Louise’s book, The Great British Sewing Bee: Fashion With Fabric, accompanied the third series of the show and is priced at £20 from www.quadrille.co.uk
here’s never been a better time to try sewing your own swimwear, with plenty of fabric suppliers, lots of great patterns and an abundance of online info to help you along the way. If like me you’re an unconventional size, sewing for yourself can be the only, and often cheapest, way to get a great fit.
TIPS FOR SEWING SWIMWEAR:
1 Go and try on some actual swimsuits that are similar to pattern styles you like. No point sewing up a style that’s not right for your figure when there are so many styles available. 2 Chlorine in swimming pools can destroy fabric and cause the elastic to disintegrate if you don’t buy supplies designed for swimwear.
3 Ensure your fabric is four way (stretches both vertically and horizontally). Without stretch running up and down the body, the swimsuit will be very uncomfortable (don’t ask how I know!). 4 Gather your supplies together before starting. Since the pieces are relatively small, swimwear can be a speedy project, so it’s frustrating to almost finish and then realise you don’t have the right clasp. 5 Make a toile in fabric that’s the same stretch percentage as the one you plan to use or buy extra fabric. Compare the pattern to a well-fitting swimsuit you already have. 6 Practise all your seaming and edge finish techniques before you get started. Your machine may not like the settings suggested by the pattern, but there are usually other options that will work. For edges that require elastic, it's a good idea to practise stretching the elastic as you sew, because not even a pro like me gets it perfect on the first attempt. 7 You don’t have to own an overlocker to get a good result, but you do have to use a stretch or microtex needle, and some people find a walking foot useful. I’m a total sewing nerd, and I love poring over sewing instructions (probably stems from developing instructions for the Sewing Bee contestants to use). So, I’ve checked out a load of swimwear patterns for you.
MEASURE TWICE CUT ONCE HENRIETTA SWIMSUIT
This PDF pattern appealed to me as a sun worshipper who doesn’t want to get
Skill focus SPECIAL my tummy out! The criss-cross straps and low back create support whilst allowing me to get some sun on my back! The picot elastic edging is a pretty feature and can be substituted for a regular elastic edge if you’d prefer a cleaner line. My top tip is to buy an inexpensive cupped bikini, remove the outer fabric and cut at the sides. Then insert into the front panel. This is a great cheat if you’re time poor and don’t want to sew fiddly boning channels. www.measuretwicecutonce.com.au
CLOSET CASE PATTERNS SOPHIE SWIMSUIT & BIKINI
This structured balconette bra-style cup, includes vertical panelling that offers lots of colour-blocking options (black sides for that magic slimming effect!) and I love the higher-waisted bikini bottoms. Once you master the cup fit this will be a very useful pattern for those of us who like to move about and get active in our swimsuits, and need good support! There is a comprehensive post on how to choose the right size based on your under-bust. Find the PDF pattern and the blog post at www.closetcasepatterns.com/choosingsize-sophie-swimsuit-use-bigger-cup
JALIE 3671 GIGI BIKINI
I’m a big fan of Jalie patterns, who specialises in activewear. One thing that is unique to this pattern company is that the instructions and pattern appear on the same sheet. These bikini designs (below) feature an under band designed as a 'no roll' with a clasp, so you have enough support for those of us who get really active on the beach. There’s a bikini bottom option with a roll top, so you can
Jalie Patterns feature instructions printed next to the pattern pieces
There’s never been a better time to try sewing your own swimwear!
be high waisted when walking about and roll it down for tanning! The bikini tops would also make great sports bras. Find your local stockist at www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist
This is another great-value pattern (right) with two swimsuit styles and a very nice cover up. I’m only sad that this plus-size pattern isn’t in my size! The size range starts at 18W all the way to 32W, and has different cup options, so there’s no need to try and work out tricky bust adjustments on asymmetrical pattern pieces. There are instructions for foam cup inserts, so I wouldn’t say this is a full support swimsuit, but is will definitely provide some support and introduce you to the concept of making hidden inner bras. Don't overloook the skirted swimsuit, as I know many of us would like to keep our bums covered. Buy the paper pattern from www.sewdirect.com
CASHMERETTE IPSWICH SWIMSUIT & BIKINI
I would say that this is the most complex of all the patterns I looked at (page 60), as there are many pieces. The instructions for creating the inner bra support are very comprehensive, as this is something those of us with larger busts really need in a swimsuit. The vertical panelling offers multiple colour-blocking options. Having multiple seams also offers many more fitting options too. All Cashmerette patterns are well sized; US 12-28, cups C-H and Jenny has an online course that walks you through every step of construction. Find your local stockist at www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist
Here are my suggestions for where to start gathering the different supplies you'll need for your project:
• www.funkifabrics.com has a large selection including plains and prints. It also sells swimsuit lining. • www.fabrics-hemmers.co.uk sells coloured swimwear elastic too! • www.flo-jofabrics.co.uk has a modest selection, but nice fabric.
• www.fit2sew.co.uk has a great selection of lining as well as fasteners and supplies
• www.jaycotts.co.uk offers a great range of clasps, foam bra cups and plus underwires if your swimsuit needs extra support. • www.minervacrafts.com similarly has plenty of options.
SHOP OF THE
GATHER ‘N’ SEW Bourne, Lincolnshire
This month, we spoke to Leanne who owns Gather 'N' Sew. This friendly shop stocks a fabulous range of fabric and haberdashery and runs regular sewing workshops Hi Leanne! How are you and what are you up to at the shop today? This morning I am still feeling pretty excited about all the wonderful items our customers made in our Sew Well Dressed evening last night. These are social evenings where our customers can share their dressmaking experiences, show off their fabulous makes, set themselves goals and, of course, have a little retail therapy. We have a different theme every month and last night we gave a demonstration on bust adjustments. And I'm also putting together a new list of workshops that will be released this weekend. Tell us a bit about how you came to own your own shop Sewing has always been a huge part of my life and some of my earliest memories are of turning the handle of the old Singer sewing machine for my mum whilst she made all our clothes.
I couldn't wait to sew for myself and at age eight I made matching tops for my best friend and me. I was hooked and now sew at every opportunity. A few years ago, I began teaching some of the children and their mums from our village how to sew and soon realised there was a huge gap in the market in and around Bourne for sewing classes and fabric. Opening the shop has been the most scary yet rewarding thing I have ever done. What sets you apart from other shops? I like to think of the shop as an oasis and an escape from the real world. Today a lady came into the shop feeling distraught after having had a difficult encounter. After stroking fabric for a while she was feeling so much better and that showed me that we are achieving our goal of being more than just a sewing shop. Is there anything new or exciting coming up that you’d like to tell our readers about? We sell the beautiful and very irresistible quilting cotton from Lewis & Irene and Makower and are also building up our collection of soft-furnishing fabric. However, we have noticed an increase in demand for dressmaking fabric, patterns and classes, so since the beginning of the year we have been focusing on building up our collection of dressmaking fabric and have gorgeous new deliveries arriving all the time. These include jersey, linen, cotton lawn, polyester crepe and viscose, amongst others. We also stock the very popular Tilly and the Buttons and Sew Over It patterns, and have plans to start stocking some other indie patterns very soon.
GATHER ‘N’ SEW Unit 8 Crown Walk, West Street, Bourne, Lincolnshire PE10 9NE 01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk
Fresh as a
DAISY Everyone needs an easy-tothrow-on skirt, and this button-down style ticks all the boxes with its midi length and bold fresh print Project CLAIRE GARSIDE
Shopping list Daisy-print chartreuse crepe, ÂŁ11.99 per metre www.remnantkings.co.uk
LAYPLAN: 60"-wide fabric FOLD
Take time to pin your
MATERIALS & TOOLS:
HOW TO MAKE:
â€˘ 1.5-2m light to mid-weight cotton, viscose, crepe & silk â€˘ fusible interfacing â€˘ 9 1.5cm buttons â€˘ co-ordinating thread â€˘ templates provided on pattern sheet or downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
With RST join the front and back waistbands at the side seams. Fuse interfacing to the lining waistband pieces and sew together as you did with the outer waistband. Fuse interfacing to the placket area of the skirt. Press the placket over WST along the fold line then press over again to the WS to encase the raw edge. Pin in place but do not stitch at this point. With RST sew a pocket bag piece to each side of the
NOTES: Finish the raw edges with a machine zigzag stitch or overlocker Use a 1.5cm seam allowance unless otherwise instructed We'd recommend a minimum of nine buttons
front skirt taking care fabric well before sewing, piece and not to clip slippery fabric will both back the stitching move around a lot skirt pieces, line. Press as you sew following the pockets the placement towards the skirt markings. (See Pic A.) front. (See Pic B.) Press the pocket bags Sew gathering stitches over the seam allowance so along the skirt waistline they hang beyond the skirt using a large stitch length. pieces and, with RST, align the Pull the thread to gather into skirt pieces at the side seams. waistband pieces between Sew the side seams, the notches, matching the pivoting at the pocket bags to side seams and centre back. sew around their outer edges. (See Pic C.) Snip the seam allowance With RST sew to the up to the pocket notches, waistband, keeping gathers
even and press seam allowance upwards. (See Pic D.) Arrange the waistband facing RST with the outer waistband and press up the lower edge by 1.5cm. Sew down the short sides of the waistband, catching the folded back edge in your stitching line. Clip the corners, and grade the allowance to reduce bulk. Turn the waistband through to the RS and press out the corners with a point turner. Pin the waistband facing down on the inside and either hand-sew closed or stitch in the ditch to secure. At the hem, turn back the placket on each front by one fold and pin RST with the skirt. Sew 2cm up from the hemline just across the placket area.
Clip the corner and grade the placket seam allowance to reduce bulk. Turn through to the RS and press out the corners with a point turner. Press the remaining hem with a 1cm double-turned hem. Top-stitch around the whole skirt hem in one motion. If you wish you can also top-stitch the plackets, but once you’ve installed your buttons and buttonholes this will be secure enough. Install buttonholes on the right-hand side of the skirt (as worn). They should be horizontal for the best finish. (See Pic E.) Hand-sew buttons onto the left-hand side in the corresponding positions and voila, your skirt is finished!
HANDLING POLYESTER 1 Use a new, universal, sharps or microtex needle, size 9/60-10/70. Larger size needles can leave holes or cause the seams to gather slightly as you sew. Blunt needles can snag the fabric and cause runs. 2 Take care when applying fusibles, use a high heat and steam on a test piece first – but always protect the fabric with a pressing cloth to avoid melting the fabric. If the fabric marks or shrinks, use sew-in interfacing. 3 If possible, use dressmaking shears that have a fine serrated edge on the blades – the serrated edge holds slippery fabric in place as you cut. 4 Cut out around the triangular notches – as this fabric frays easily, do not snip into seam allowances. 5 Make sure you neaten seam allowances as this fabric can fray easily. Either overlock, overcast or bind seam allowances with tricot tape. 6 Fabric softener in your washing machine will help reduce static in your garment, but if you're still worried about the dreaded cling try lining your garments.
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From bags to
STITCHES MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 2 15x14" pieces light-coloured fabric • 2 4x30" pieces light-coloured fabric for straps • 2 4x30" pieces of lining fabric • assorted colours of embroidery floss • 6" or 8" embroidery hoop • embroidery needle • tracing paper or transfer pencil • templates provided on pattern sheet or downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Transform your hand-embroidery designs into wearable works of art by creating a go-to tote you can take anywhere! Project JODIE RACKLEY
NOTES: A 1/2" seam allowance is used throughout unless otherwise stated
HOW TO MAKE: 1 Centre a copy of your chosen embroidery design on the front of the tote fabric and transfer the design using carbon tracing paper or a transfer pencil. 2 Place a section of the transferred design into the embroidery hoop. Using a variety of stitches and floss colours, embroider the design. Use back and straight stitches to outline the lines and fill stitches to make solid sections of colour. 3 Finish one section at a time, centring the hoop over each section as you work. 4 Once you have finished the embroidery, place the embroidered fabric RST with the matching piece of fabric. Using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew along the sides and bottom of the bag. Leave the top unsewn. Repeat to join the two pieces of lining fabric.
Shopping list Find 500 gorgeous colours of DMC embroidery thread at your local/favourite DMC stockist.
BACK STITCH STRAIGHT STRAI STITCH
LONG SHORT STITCH
SATIN A ATIN STITCH
ABOUT THE BOOK
Adapted from Happy Stitch by Jodie Rackley, ÂŁ14.99 F+W Media
You could easily
add these embroideries With the bag to the front of a and lining square cushion pieces still edges and press. inside out, make Machine-sew a a small triangle at straight stitch down both the base of each bottom sides of the strap. Repeat to corner by folding the bag so make the second strap. the side seam aligns with the Turn the main bag section bottom seam. RS out. Leave the lining WS Measure 11â „2" up from the out. Tuck the main section into corner point and draw a line the lining section so that the across the corner that runs RS of both sections are next perpendicular to the side to each other. Make sure that seam. Sew along this line, and the seams are centred and then trim off the fabric below the fabric smoothly aligned. the stitched line with scissors Decide on strap placement or pinking shears. Repeat for and place a pin where the all four corners. ends should go, around 3" Take the long strap piece, from the side seams. Tuck the fold long sides in to the centre strap down in between the and iron flat. Fold the strap main and lining fabric of the in half again, matching long bag front so the raw ends of
the strap stick out of the top. Pin the strap and two layers of fabric in place. Repeat for the second strap on the other side of the bag. Straight-stitch by machine along the top edge of the bag with a 1â „2" seam allowance. Leave a 2" to 3" unstitched opening to turn the bag. Pull the tote fabric through the opening and push the lining fabric down inside of the bag. Handstitch the opening closed. Top-stitch around the top edge of the bag using a machine or simple hand embroidery stitch.
Double gauze top from issue 50, Nani Iro Lei Nani Birds Humming double gauze, £22 per metre www. drapersdaughter.com
DOUBLE WHAT IS DOUBLE GAUZE? In technical terms gauze is a weave structure in which the weft yarns are arranged in pairs and are crossed before and after each warp yarn, keeping the weft firmly in place. But the weave is actually quite loose and, with a high threadcount, is soft and lightweight. It is usually quite sheer and because it allows air to pass through freely, gauze is perfect for clothing worn in hot and humid climates or bandages where the skin needs to breathe. This is also referred to as leno weave or cross weave.
However, it can also be rather impractical. Gauze being a little see-through means you may reveal more than you intend to when wearing a gauze shirt with nothing underneath. But thank goodness for the Japanese and their clever invention of double gauze! HOW IS IT MADE? Double gauze is literally two layers of gauze that are woven simultaneously on the loom. At regular intervals (often about every 1 or 2cm), a yarn from the top layer exchanges places with a yarn on the bottom layer, effectively basting the two layers together during the weaving process. These basting yarns are virtually impossible to detect from the right side of the fabric, but the wrong side can sometimes reveal them. The other way to see the threads is to ever so carefully peel apart the two layers along the cut edge and look for the vertical stitches resisting your pull. The genius behind double gauze is that it retains its lightweight properties, but is no longer sheer because of the double layer of fabric. The backing layer of double gauze is generally not printed or dyed, but many double-sided designs are now available and reversible garments are even more spectacular! Summers in Japan can be quite hot and humid, so double gauze has been embraced as a forgiving summer-weight fabric. We have to add that, to limit double gauze to garment sewing would be a big mistake – the fabric is so snuggly it’s perfect for huggable projects like toys and quilts too.
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MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 2 6.4x8.9cm rectangles of striped ticking or heavy cotton for handle • 2 6.4x5.1cm pieces of spotty print cotton for handle • 5.1cm square of spot-print cotton for handle base • 4 12.7cm squares of cotton for bear head • 4 4.4cm squares of cotton for bear ears • 2 6.4cm strips of crochet trim • 1" scrap brown or black felt for bear's eye & nose • 5.1cm square linen for bear's snout • 5.1cm square lightweight sew-in interfacing for bear's snout • brown DMC 3031 embroidery floss • black thread • polyfill • jingle ball or rattle • templates provided on pattern sheet or downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
NOTES: Finished size is approximately 10x19cm Seam allowances are 0.6cm unless otherwise stated
ABOUT THE BOOK
Adapted from Sweetly Stitched Handmades by Amy Sinibaldi, £14.95, www.tuvapublishing.com
SHAKE it off
This charming and sweet baby bear rattle is made extra special with the addition of a little bell Project AMY SINIBALDI
You don't have to stick to blue or pink, why not try yellow or cream for a gender-neutral rattle?
Strokes, Sun Les Petits by Amy Sinibaldi, ÂŁ3.50 per FQ www. prettyfabricsandtrims.co.uk
HOW TO MAKE:
Jumpsie Daisy Sweet Ice, Playground by Amy Sinibaldi, ÂŁ3.15 per FQ www. thehomemakery.co.uk
Dots Creme, Les Petits by Amy Sinibaldi, ÂŁ3.50 per FQ www. prettyfabricsandtrims.co.uk
Jumpsie Daisy Gumball, Playground by Amy Sinibaldi, ÂŁ3.50 per FQ www.thehomemakery.co.uk
Copy the bear templates and create patterns using cardstock or thin cardboard. Position the bear head pattern diagonally onto WS of a 12.7cm square of fabric and trace. This is so the curved lines of the bear's head are cut on the fabric bias. Using another 12.7cm square, cut a second head piece in the exact same manner. Now flip the pattern over and cut two more head pieces on the bias of the remaining 12.7cm squares. Pair up one set of bear head fabric pieces so that they match up on all sides, RST. Pair up the other set, RST. Sew along the long smooth edge, backstitching at the beginning and end. Repeat on the second set. Clip the fabric seam allowance around the curve. Press the head piece open with the seam facing to one side. Repeat for second head piece, pressing the seam to the same side, so when facing, seams butt together. Trace the bear's ear pattern to the WS of two pieces of ear fabric. Place two remaining pieces of ear fabric on these, RST. Stitch the ears following the traced line. Trim the seam allowance and clip curves. Turn ears RS out. Press. Embroider a running stitch around the ear's edge using brown floss. Gently pull until the ear begins to curve in slightly. Pin each ear 2.5cm from the centre seam of one head pieces, raw edges
aligned, RST. Machinebaste in place. Machinebaste a length of crochet trim across the short side of a ticking rectangle, raw edges aligned. Repeat on the second set. With RST, sew dotty fabric to the bottom of the ticking fabric. Repeat for second piece. Press seams toward the dot fabric. With RST, sew the handle, along the crochet-trimmed edge, to the bottom straight edge of a bear head piece. Repeat with the second set. Press the seam towards the bear head. Lay the rattle front and rattle back pieces RST and pin at seams. Leaving the bottom of the rattle open for turning RS out, stitch a 0.6cm seam around the rattle and clip all curves. Turn RS out. Stuff well with polyfill, adding the jingle ball or rattle into the middle of the bear's head. Fold the bottom edge of the rattle to the inside by 0.6cm, and using a double strand of thread, sew a running stitch through this fold. Pull the thread until the hole in the bottom is as small as possible and knot the thread. Trace the handle base pattern onto dotty fabric and cut out. Folding under 0.6cm as you go, hand-sew to the bottom of the rattle. To make the snout, trace the snout pattern onto linen. Sew onto the lightweight
interfacing piece and trim the seam allowance. Using a seam ripper, carefully cut a slit in the interfacing, turn snout piece RS out and press. Using brown floss, embroider a running stitch around the snout. Invisibly stitch the snout by hand to the bear's head. Cut the bear's eyes and nose from felt using the template. Stitch onto the bear's face using black thread and hide the thread tails inside the bear's head.
Shows you how to...
READ A PATTERN CIRCLE DOTS
These marks indicate construction details, such as zipper position, pleating, or the endof-stitching line, as set out in the instructions. Some pattern companies will use triangles or squares in place of circle dots.
PATTERN CUTTING LINE
Each line relates to different size for the garment. There can be up to 10 sizes on a pattern sheet so you can either follow a single cutting line throughout or blend carefully between sizes to achieve a better fit.
The arrow on the pattern piece must be ‘on grain’ with the threads of the fabric so that it can hang, move and stretch correctly. The grainline must always be parallel to the selvedge (the self-finished edges) of the fabric.
BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT
The placement for a button is marked with an X. The placement for a buttonhole is marked with an edged line. TUCKS/PLEATS
Transfer any tuck lines marked on the pattern PLACE ON FOLD LINE
This edge of the pattern piece is to be placed on the fold of your fabric, making it easy to cut out a mirror image at the same time. pieces to the RS (right side) of the garment. Follow directional arrows where given.
SA (SEAM ALLOWANCE)
Parts of the fabric to be folded for shaping, usually located at the bust, waist and neck.
Every project you sew has a set seam allowance. This is the distance between where you sew and the raw edge of the fabric – essentially an invisible line around each pattern piece. These lines are occasionally included on vintage patterns. You must sew at the seam allowance in order for the pieces to line up correctly. Most commonly this is 1.5cm, but check your instructions in case smaller allowances are being used. Sewing machines have marks for the seam allowance to the right side of the presser foot.
Make a tiny snip or chalk mark at each notch location, within the seam allowance. These marks are used to match pieces together before sewing.
RS (RIGHT SIDE AKA FABRIC FRONT)
These explain how to lay each piece onto the fabric to ensure that all of the pieces will fit on the fabric quantity suggested on the envelope. Remember to follow along with the correct view and size. Don’t forget to take care with directional prints; you wouldn’t want a floral print top with all the flowers upside down.
Instructions for placing right sides of fabric together will be written as RST. LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINE
This indicates exactly where to shorten or lengthen the pattern piece or garment to make changes for improved fit.
WS (WRONG SIDE AKA FABRIC BACK)
Instructions for fusing interfacing to the wrong side of fabric will be written as WST.
ACHIEVE THE PERFECT FIT Draw a third horizontal line a little above the hem between Line 1 and the centre front of the pattern.
First, you need to work out how much additional space you require around the bust or what youâ€™d like to remove. Here is a helpful chart to work out the amount: Small bust example
Full bust example
Full bust measurement
High bust measurement
1/2â€? SBA = half the difference
11/2â€? FBA = half the difference
Cut along Line 1 from the hem to the armhole, making sure not to cut all the way through the armhole. Leave a hinge so you can pivot the paper. The point of the dart has now swung away from its original position. Cut through the line in the middle of the dart, again leave a little hinge at the tip of the dart so you can pivot.
The lower edge of your hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now longer. Cut the third line you drew, and spread apart until your hem is level. Fill in the spaces created with tracing paper, and stick into place.
Using a ruler and pencil, draw a vertical line from the marked point to the hem. Make sure the line is parallel to the grainline on the pattern.
SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIG E) Draw in the lines as per an FBA adjustment. This is essentially the same process in reverse.
From this line, draw a second line up towards the armhole, hitting the lower third of the armhole. Together, these lines are called Line 1.
Swing the darted side of the pattern across the other side, by the desired SBA amount. The lower edge of the hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now shorter. Cut the third line you drew, and overlap until your hem is level.
Draw a second line horizontally through the middle of the bust dart, meeting Line 1 at the bust point.
Some patterns will come with an adjustment line for narrow or broad back drawn on. If your pattern doesnâ€™t, you can easily do this yourself. NARROW BACK (FIGS A â€“ C) B
Line up the cut edges of Line 1 so theyâ€™ve been spread apart by the amount of your FBA. The edges should be parallel. Youâ€™ll notice that your dart has now spread apart too and become bigger.
FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIGS A-D) Lay the tissue pattern against yourself to establish where your bust point is. Mark onto the pattern with a cross.
Draw a vertical line down from the shoulder, 3cm from the armhole to just below the bottom of the armhole. Draw a second line at a right angle from this point. Cut along the two lines, and slide the armhole side overlapping the paper. Stick in place. A small Âźâ€? adjustment is often enough. Play around with this amount as you develop your fitting skills. Use a ruler and pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. Because we have only adjusted the upper back, the fit should remain the same around the waist. (See the orange lines on Fig B.) Youâ€™ll now need to make the front shoulder width a little shorter. Line up the notches on the shoulder ensuring sure the neckline is lined up. The front width will be a little longer than the newly adjusted back shoulder. Draw a new, narrower line from the back around the front, trimming a little of the front armhole away. Donâ€™t forget to make sure your new curved line is smooth at the shoulder. BROAD BACK ADJUSTMENT (FIGS D AND E) D
ADJUSTING FOR HEIGHT
SHORTEN A PATTERN (FIG A) Working at 90Ëš to the grain, make corresponding tucks across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Make corresponding tucks across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, shorten above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve. LENTHEN A PATTERN (FIG B) Working at 90Ëš to the grain, cut across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Cut across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, cut above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve. Spread the pattern pieces as required and fill the spaces with scrap paper. A
BELOW THE HIP ADJUSTMENTS (FIG A) To decrease the width, make a graduated tuck from the waist to the hem, tapering to nothing at the waist, indicated by the dotted line. To increase the width, cut the pattern piece through the waist to the hem, place over scrap paper and spread to the required size.
Start in the same way as a narrow back adjustment drawing the two lines and cutting along them.
Instead of overlapping the cut pattern pieces, spread them. As before there are no hard and fast rules, but with a broad back a Âź-Â˝â€? adjustment is about right. Fill in the space with some tracing paper and stick together. Use a ruler and a pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. (See the orange lines on Fig D.) This time youâ€™ll need to make the front shoulder a little longer. As with the narrow adjustment, line up the shoulder seams, ensuring the neckline is aligned. Draw a curved line from the back shoulder down towards the front armhole, adding a sliver to the front shoulder and armhole. Check that youâ€™ve drawn a smooth line over the shoulder.
SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY BEVERLEY
Sewing supplies & fabrics all under one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry Burton is one of the leading fabric stockists in the area. Visit our store today and you will find exactly what you are looking for. Bernina and Janome stockists
BlueButtonDesigns email@example.com Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery 07540 634 351 Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Blue Buttons Designs Weekly Make Space Group Traders Outlet 39 Parsonage Street 3-7 Tatton Road, Dursley, Glos, GL11Sale, 5RG Cheshire, M33 7EB www.inchesfabrics.co.uk
The Courtyard, Burton Mount, Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton, Beverley, HU17 7RA firstname.lastname@example.org Call: 01964 551 955
Romy's Sewing Rooms
The Sewing Room offers several different classes a week, teaching everything from simple machine sewing skills to welt felting to space dying! We welcome all and urge you to come and get involved!
For all your haberdashery needs. Sewing classes for all ages and abilities. 01387250867
Tel: 01404 815251 julietsquire.wixsite.com/thesewingroom 1 Prospect Place, Hind Street Ottery St. Mary, Devon, EX11 1BP
From Fabrics and Haberdashery, to Wool, Knitting and Crochet Accessories, we have it all here at Friary Stitch.
180 Irish Street, Dumfries, DG1 2NJ
Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Weekly Make Space Group 39 Parsonage Street Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG www.inchesfabrics.co.uk
Come on in and take a look around!
2-4 Bethlehem Street Grimsby, DN31 1JU 01472 357800 www.friarystitch.co.uk
Reads of Winchester Suppliers of sewing machines. Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar Both new and reconditioned.
Fabulous Fabrics, Beautiful Buttons and Truly Scrumptious Trimmings. Craft Workshops Every Week! email@example.com www.thefabbadashery.com 01422 647574 10-12 Clare Road, Halifax, HX1 2HX
Many machines on display demonstrations available. Sales service repair haberdashery supplies
Tel 01962 850950 1 St Thomas Street, Winchester, hants SO23 9HE Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm
Badder Fabrics of Hereford
One stop shop for all your dressmaking needs Patterns, fashion and bridal fabrics, dressmakingand alterations service Husqvarna sewing machine sales and repairs on all models Taking part in the Shop local giveaway campaign 36a Aubrey Street, Hereford HR4 0BU Tel 01432 379137 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
A gathering place for friends, fabric and inspiration Fabrics . Haberdashery . Sewing classes Leanne's new sewing shop Lots of exciting plans Pop in to say 'Hi'! Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9NE 01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk
Stockists of Michael Miller, Riley Blake, Makower, Stof, Tilda, Robert Kaufmann, Dashwood and others. Buttons, haberdashery, patterns, unique gifts and craft workshops.
Unit 18c The Hart Centre, Fleet Road, Fleet GU51 3LA Tel: 01252 444220 www.sew-busy.co.uk
is an independent fabric shop on the outskirts of the beautiful spa town of Harrogate in North Yorkshire. We specialise in linens, wools, cotton lawns and silks, we like to use local suppliers where possible and are known for our customer service. We offer weekly sewing classes for all abilities call or check the new website.
We stock fabric from Moda, Stoff, Lewis & Irene, Makower, Kaffe Fassett, and Free Spirit with threads from Gutermann, Mettler, Madeira and Marathon. We have Jacquard dyes and paints, Pebeo and lampshade kits. Felting supplies, haberdashery, childrenâ€™s crafts, Woodware and Hunkydory papercrafts. Art materials from Winsor & Newton, Liquitex and Faber Castell. 7 Fore Street, Liskeard, PL14 3JA 01579 347 237 www.craft-box.com email@example.com
Beautiful fabrics and workshops where you will find a warm and friendly welcome.
SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY Unit 66, Basepoint, The Havens, Ipswich IP3 9BF firstname.lastname@example.org 01473 722888
Including: Liberty, Kaffe Fassett, Micheal Miller, Riley Blake, Fabric Freedom, Rowan, King Cole, Stylecraft
15 Lordship Lane, East Dulwich, London, SE22 8EW 02035810909 email@example.com www.reallymaria.com
Let us teach you the Art of Sewing. With a variety of Bespoke Tailoring, Pattern Cutting and Garment Making courses, we can help tailor your sewing future Telephone 07399249471 Facebook SKB Tailoring and Training Centre Email firstname.lastname@example.org We make learning easy
11-12 George Arcade, South Molton, Devon, EX36 3AB, 01769 574071 Patchwork and quilting supplies. Classes and workshops. Open 9am - 5pm Monday to Saturday www.stepbystep-quilts.co.uk
Stockist of Brother, Janome & Toyota FULL SERVICE NOW £40 (NORMAL PRICE £60) We have a range of haberdashery, yarns, patterns and spare parts available in store. We specialise in repair and service of machines, with free local pick-up and delivery. 185 Hoylake Road, Moreton, Wirral, Merseyside CH46 9QA Tel: 0151 677 7755
NORTHALLERTON Your NEW one stop sewing shop! Sewing workshops in dressmaking and crafts for all ages and abilities, Singer sewing machine sales and parts , Fabrics and haberdashery, Patterns and in-house pattern cutter. Come and see us at Sew New Ltd., 1, The Fairway, Romanby, Northallerton, DL7 8AY Tel: 01609 531399 Email: email@example.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/SewNew.co.uk www.sewnew.co.uk
A Good Yarn A friendly quilting and knitting shop, we have a large stock of quilting fabrics and notions.
Welcome to my lovely craft emporium! We have lots of crafty goodies for sale however support, inspiration and the service with a smile are free!
We run weekly classes and workshops. We also stock wool.
Open 9.00am - 5.30pm Monday to Saturday
No.1 St Teilo Street Pontarddulais Swansea, SA4 8TH 01792 886 986 firstname.lastname@example.org
68 Berry Lane, Longridge, Preston, PR3 3WH 01772 780 883 www.itsofsewcrafty.com
We stock a wide variery of patchwork and dressmaking fabrics, as well as wools, cottons, and embroidery silks. We also offer an extensive range of haberdashery products.
A friendly quilting and knitting shop, we have a large stock of quilting fabrics and notions. We run weekly classes and workshops. We also stock wool. No.1 St Teilo Street Pontarddulais Swansea, SA4 8TH 01792 886 986 email@example.com
The Sew Easy Sewing Shop Need haberdashery in Northwich? Look no further than Sew Easy! We’ve a huge selection of fabric, needlecraft, sewing machines, patterns, and haberdashery products. 80 Witton Street, Northwich, Cheshire, CW9 5AE
80 Watling St, Wilnecote Tamworth, Staffs, B77 5BJ • Servicing and repairs on all makes and models of sewing machines from £40 • Local agent for Brother and Juki machines • Fabrics library and sewing accessories • Friendly, knowledgeable service Offering a warm friendly welcome, supplying quality fabrics for dressmaking and quilting. Weekly sewing sessions 1 The Broadway, Weekend workshops Brighton Road Elna/Janome stockist Machine servicing and repairs Worthing, Bespoke commissions undertaken
BN11 3EG T:thesewcialstudio.co.uk 01903 200771 E: firstname.lastname@example.org
SHEFFIELD 42 www.quiltnow.co.uk
7 High St, Storrington, W Sussex, RH20 4DR 01903 746204
A Good Yarn Extensive range of Fabrics, Wool, Haberdashery, Craft Kits & Workshops.
Sheffield’s newest independent sewing store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and QN34.P40.indd 42 Tula Pink. We also offer classes in a variety of crafts. 1a Arundel Road To advertise please contact Sheffield Jane on 0161 474 6976 S35 2RB 0114 2455996 or email jane.bates@ handmadehappyhare practicalpublishing.co.uk @yahoo.co.uk
NEWS CRAFTY SEW & SO
St Martins Square, Leicester LE1 5EW Tel: 0116 319 6930 www.craftysewandso.com In July the shop is hosting a small craft fair in the square with local Etsy and designer makers holding stalls selling a range of items including jewellery, illustrations and contemporary knitted goods. It will also be running the popular ‘Start as you mean to sew on’ beginners’ workshop to encourage people to pick up their own craft! The fair will be open from 10am-3pm on Saturday 21st July in Leicester city centre. We hope to see lots of people there!
SEW SEW FABRICS
Bexleyheath, Kent www.sewsewfabrics.co.uk The team at Sew Sew Fabrics has just opened a brand-new classroom space at the Bexleyheath showroom and will be using this extra space to run even more fabulous workshops!
SKB TAILORING AND TRAINING CENTRE
London FB: SKB Tailoring & Training Centre The Bespoke Jacket Making course had a great start with students learning how to draft an SKB jacket pattern. Other bespoke and sewing workshops available. Contact email@example.com for more information.
THE SEWING ROOM
Ottery St Mary, Devon Tel: 01404 815251 www.julietsquire.wixsite.com/ thesewingroom The Sewing Room holds workshops in dressmaking, patchwork, quilting, knitting, crochet, wet felting with added free-motion embroidery, needle felting and various other skills. Juliet will take commissions and will have a go at anything! The timetable for each month can be found on the website or Facebook page. Juliet
Keep up to date with news from your local sewing shop
THE LITTLE FABRIC STORE
Louth, Lincolnshire Wolds FB: The Little Fabric Store, Louth www.thelittlefabricstore.co.uk The Little Fabric Store is located in the heart of the Lincolnshire Wolds. The shop prides itself on supplying the best 100% cotton fabric available and stocks Moda, Dashwood Studio, Robert Kaufman and offers a great selection of Janet Clare books, patterns and fabric. Janet’s unique English style has a certain appeal, with the Old Blighty Shipping Forecast Quilt being a firm favourite. Visit the shop to be inspired – the team would love to see you! It is open Tuesday – Saturday or shop online.
FRANK NUTT THE PEACOCK AND THE TORTOISE
Perth www.thepeacockandthetortoise.co.uk The Peacock and the Tortoise has a lovely selection of Scottish and Celtic themed fabric and textile gifts. From treat boxes, cross-stitch kits, fat quarter selections to cushion panels and whole quilt packs; there is always something that can be taken home in a bag or a suitcase!
Birmingham www.franknutt.co.uk If you’re looking to purchase your dream machine, the friendly and knowledgeable staff can guide you through the ranges to find the machine that is perfect for you. The shop is easily accessible from the M42 and has its own customer car park for a stress-free visit.
FABRIC FABRIC Embroidered PU jacket ÂŁ60 www.jdwilliams.co.uk
Zip up,to Back look sharp BED
Create a swoonworthy sleep space with a mix of botanical Personalise this spring-summer prints hotwith hues, biker and jacket ouraccented pick of with touches of fabric gold sturdy yet stylish
Floresta Blue bed linen collection www.dunelm.com
Fabric Fabric shopping shopping Freja Turquoise Amalfi Rifle Paper Co cotton linen, ÂŁ23.50 per metre www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk Copper Cognac0.55mm-thick Cardinal Kona cotton, metre www.empressmills.co.uk Black and white Half Eco leatherette, ÂŁ15 perÂŁ5.50 metre per www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk leatherGeometrix skin, ÂŁ17 per 5ft Hex, square www. metre Mama ÂŁ11.25 per www.empressmills.co.uk Ochre Toco viscose linen-mix furnishing fabric, ÂŁ45 per skin, metre pittards.com Burgundy leatherette, ÂŁ6 per metre www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk pink 0.7mm-thick leather ÂŁ17 per Emerald Spot print mid-blue Shell pink soft faux suede, ÂŁ9.80 per www.remnantkings.co.uk silkyper satin, ÂŁ5.45 per metre www.abakhan.co.uk 5ft square www.pittards.com denim, ÂŁ8.99 metre www.abakhan.co.uk Tropical Green printedmetre viscose, ÂŁ4.99 per metre www.remnantkings.co.uk www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 79
WHAT a waist!
ABOUT WENDY GARDINER As well as being Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company, Wendy is a published author and sewing teacher. Find her online courses at www.craftsy.com
Waist stays help prevent unwanted stretch or unbalanced weight in a dress. Wendy Gardiner, Brand Ambassador for The McCallâ€™s Pattern Company, shares two methods
aist stays help prevent a dress from riding up or down, ensuring your garment stays in the right position. It can also provide support in the zip area. You may also use a waist stay on dresses made from stretchy fabric to prevent the waist seam from stretching too much. More commonly however, a waist stay is used to support a skirt that is heavier than the bodice by anchoring the garment at the waist. It helps minimise distortion of the bodice and, importantly when wearing a strapless dress, helps prevent it being pulled downward. Waist stays are most often made from 15-20mm-wide grosgrain ribbon which is sturdy with minimal stretch. There are two methods of attaching a waist stay, the first is generally used
when the stay is to prevent the seam line from stretching and is attached to the waistline seam allowances. The second method helps support heavy skirts, as well as help relieve stress in the zip area and hold the waistline in place. This method can also be used on dresses that do not have a waist seam.
METHOD 1 With this method the waist stay is added to the waist seam line before zips are inserted. Cut the ribbon stay the exact measurement of the skirt waistline (not including any seam allowances or facings etc). Pin and baste the ribbon to the seam allowances so that one edge is along the seam line and the ends at the seam line.
Add a waist stay to a strapless dress to ensure the bodice stays in place (Butterick 6353)
Attach a second set of ‘eyes’ further along the stay so you have options for ‘before dinner’ and after!
Method 2 3 Machine-sew in place to the seam allowance, just above the stitched seam. Then trim seam allowance to the same width of the stay (do not trim the stay). On bulky fabric, layer the seam allowances, cutting the skirt seam allowance to a scant 6mm and the bodice seam allowance to the width of the ribbon stay. 4 For fabric that may fray, overlock or over-edge the seam allowance and upper edge of stay together. 5 Turn the ribbon ends over and stitch to neaten. Attach hooks and eyes to the ends of the waist stay, with the eyes near the edge.
METHOD 2 Make up the dress including adding the zip. 1 Cut the waist stay ribbon to fit the waist, adding 2.5-5cm for finishing the short ends. Turn the ends back and stitch to neaten. 2 Attach hooks and eyes to the ends of the waist stay, with the eyes near the edge. 3 Catch-stitch the stay to the inside of the garment or lining, with the hook end in line with the zip and the eye end extending beyond. Catch it in place at the front seam, darts and side seams, leaving at least 5cm of tape free each side of the zipper.
Add a waist stay to help anchor garment and prevent the waist from stretching (Vogue 2902)
If the skirt is heavier than the bodice, a waist stay will help prevent it pulling up or down (Vogue 8727)
Get set for the sunshine with this fabulous two-piece set! The camisole top features delicate pin tucks and the shorts include a comfy elastic waistband and essential pockets Project SARAH WADEY & FREYA GILBERT Crafty Sew & So
Shopping list Magenta Viscose, £5 per metre and Poppy Harvest Lady McElroy, £14.50 per metre. Both available at www.craftysewandso.com
LAYPLANS: 45"-wide fabric
BACK WRONG SIDE UP
BACK WRONG SIDE UP
SIZING: TOP: FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 1.75m 45”-wide or 1m of 60”-wide lightweight fabric such as polyester or silk crepe, viscose crepe, cotton lawn, cupro for the top • 1.65m 45”-wide or 1.25m 60”-wide fabric such as cotton lawn or poplin, quilting cotton, lightweight linen, polyester or silk crepe, cupro for the shorts
• 25cm light to medium-weight fusible interfacing • 38mm-wide elastic: XS = 40cm, S = 45cm, M = 50cm, L = 55cm, XL = 63cm • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
NOTES: Seam allowance is 5⁄8” (1.5cm) throughout unless otherwise stated
HOW TO MAKE: WS of the top and tie off CAMI TOP before snipping the threads 1 We suggest overlocking, short. Press the pin tucks so overcasting or finishing they lie flat, pressing four the main panels BEFORE towards each side seam. constructing your top, 5 With RST, join the front to so start by finishing the the back at the side seams. side edges of the front and 6 With RST, join the facings back panels. You can at the side seams, press open use an overlocker, zigzag and finish the lower edge of stitch or your preferred the joined facings. finishing method. 7 To make the straps, fold 2 To create the pin tucks on each strap piece in half the front panel, mark the end lengthways and stitch with points using a marking pen, a 1.5cm seam allowance. To tailor's tacks or a pin and fold turn the strap, first down trim the bodice front with WST, the seam allowance, then matching the pairs of notches take a safety pin and attach it for each pin tuck, and press through one layer of fabric, down to the marked point. then push it down through the Hold in place with a pin. tube so that the fabric starts Repeat for all eight pin tucks, gathering around it. Pull the four on each side. (See Pic A.) safety pin all the way through 3 Sew down from the and the fabric with turn itself neckline to the marking for out around it. Detach the each tuck. It helps to put safety pin and press the strap a pin through the flat with the seam to bottom of the pin one side. tuck to show 8 To attach the you where to straps, baste stop sewing. onto each side Loop turners are a good Sew 6mm of the bodice, alternative to turning straps from the fold, making sure with a safety pin if you're in and DO NOT they are in the habit of making super BACK STITCH. the centre of fiddly rouleau, or like to Instead, leave the attachment use fine fabric! long tail threads point and facing at the end of your downwards. (See Pic stitching line. (See Pic B.) C.) Attach to the front first 4 Use a hand-sewing needle then check the strap is not to bring your threads to the twisted and attach to the back.
9 With RST, pin the facing to the bodice along the arm holes, strap attachment points and neckline, matching notches, and sew with the standard seam allowance. Stitch a second row of reinforcing stitching at the centre back 'V' and doublestitch the area where the straps are attached. Trim the seam allowance to 1cm and clip into the curved seams, taking care not the snip your stitching line. At the centre back 'V', snip close to the stitching line
so that the 'V' shape turns out neatly. At the strap attachment seam, trim the corners at a 45Ëšangle to reduce bulk and turn out to the RS. (See Pic D.) Press seam allowances towards the facing. Understitch the seam allowance to the facing panel. You will not be able to stitch all the way up to where the strap attaches so just stitch as far as you can. (See Pic E.) Turn the facing to the inside of the top and press.
Hand-stitch the facing to the seam allowances of the top at the side seams. To hem the top, if youâ€™re using a lightweight fabric, start by sewing a line of stitching 5m away from the bottom of the hem, then use this line to neatly press up the hem and pin in place. Sew this down. Then take the top back to the iron and press the hem up again, pin carefully and stitch down again. You will have sewn three lines of stitching but only one will be visible from the RS of the garment and it will help you to stitch a small neat hem. SHORTS Start by finishing your edges on your main panels before constructing the shorts; you only need to finish the side, inside leg and crotch edges at this point. You can use an overlocker, zigzag stitch or your preferred finishing method.
Take each of the front panels in turn and at the waist bring the notches together to create the pleats. Put a pin through the two layers, with the pin head sticking out of the waist edge, and press the pleated fabric towards the side seams. Pin in place and baste to hold the fabric in place. With RST, place the pocket bag on the front panel, aligning the pocket opening curves and matching notches, and sew along the curve with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance down by half and snip in along the curve of the seam allowance every centimetre or so, being careful to snip close to but not through, the line of stitching. (See Pic F.) Turn the pocket bag to the WS of the shorts front and press, then top-stitch about 1cm from the edge.
Turn the front of the shorts over and fold the pocket bag in half, matching up the notches and the side of the pocket bag with the side seam edge. Sew to close the bottom of the pocket with your sewing machine or overlocker, with a 1cm seam allowance. Baste in place within the seam allowance at the side and the waist edges. Repeat for the other leg. With RST, sew the two front panels together at the crotch seam. Then, again with RST, sew the two back panels together at the crotch seam and press both seams open.
and attach to both side seams so that the edges slightly protrude into the front waistband section. (See Pic J.) To anchor the elastic between the seams, pin and top-stitch in the seam line on the outside of the garment. Attach the waistband to the shorts, matching up the side seams and stretching out the elastic along the back. (See Pic K.) Finish this seam using an overlocker, zigzag stitch or your preferred finishing method. Press the seam allowance down towards the shorts and top-stitch in place about 5mm from the seam. (See Pic L.) Hem the shorts by turning up towards the inside by 1cm, then 4cm and topstitch in place. (See Pic M.)
Take care if you're using printed fabric that won't line up at the pocket area of your shorts. A little extra fabric might help you patternmatch this piece!
Sew the front and back together at the side seams and the inside legs. To match the crotch seams in a neat cross, push a pin though the line of stitching on both sides and back on itself. This will keep the front and back in place and leave a perfect cross where the seam lines meet. (See pics G and H.) Apply fusible interfacing to the front waistband only. Sew the front and back waistband panels together then fold and press in half so the band is half its original depth. (See Pic I.) Stretch the elastic inside the back waistband section
THE GIRL WITH THE BRIGHT
Jade Earley was a finalist on The Great British Sewing Bee 2016 where she shared her love for sewing with the world. Follow her sewing adventures at www.facebook.com/ thegirlwiththebrightredhair
r i a h Red
ow! What a month it has been. I think this has been the hardest, scariest, happiest, craziest and most daunting month I have experienced! I haven't been active on social media for a while and I wanted to explain why. I have been in the process of getting a full-time job (which I am now in) and have also moved into my own flat, which was super exciting but also quite scary as I have never lived on my own before. I am now slowly getting back into sewing after a brief pause; I just needed to sort myself out and put sewing on hold for a while. I’m sure we all go through stages like that, but now that I am settled you are going to be seeing a lot more of me.
In this issue, Jade recommends her favourite sewing books with the clearest instructions
Today I wanted to share some hints on the best sewing books that I have used. As you might be aware, I am very dyslexic so reading is not exactly my best talent but these books are the main reason I brave it sometimes. Chinelo Bally's book Freehand Fashion is fantastic. I am the type of sewist that loves working with patterns – I find them easy to use, simple to follow and all the measurements are there ready for you, but I think Chinelo's book changed me into a new woman. She teaches you how to create beautiful garments without using a single pattern. It is simple to follow and only requires a small amount of maths. I promise that I’m not secretly sponsored, but my other favourite books are those that accompanied each series of The Great British Sewing Bee as they have all been amazing! The pictures are beautiful
Try this free pattern from the second Sewing Bee book at www.lovesewingmag.co.uk and clear, the instructions are so simple and easy to follow and of course they include the patterns inside so you're all set and ready to go. Even before I was on the Sewing Bee I used the books on a daily basis, and I use the series four book even more because I just loved the challenges that I did on the show! It’s a way to relive the fantastic experience. These books changed my sewing from the minute I bought them so I hope you enjoy them, too. I can't wait to get back into the swing of sewing, so keep an eye out for The Girl With The Bright Red Hair!
The Great British Sewing Bee: From Stitch to Style accompanied the fourth series of the show
! g n i w e s y p p a H
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To advertise please contact Noune on 0161 474 6997 or email noune.sarkissian@ practicalpublishing.co.uk
COUTURE Amy Thomas takes a peek inside some of the most exquisitely handcrafted garments the Fashion and Textile Museum has to offer Versace beaded patchwork chiffon gown Photo by Susan Young
he Fashion and Textile Museum is a cutting-edge centre for contemporary fashion and textiles in London. Founded by iconic British designer Zandra Rhodes, the centre showcases a programme of changing exhibitions exploring elements of fashion and textiles as well as running a wide variety of creative courses and workshops for children, students and businesses. Situated in the heart of fashionable Bermondsey Village, in a fantastic building designed by Mexican architect Ricardo Legorreta, the museum aims not just to display items relating to fashion and textile design, but to offer inspiration to a new generation of creatives. Now redeveloped and operated by Newham College, it is a hub of learning eager to share its wealth of knowledge. The FTM has a collection of around 500 couture garments in its archive, many of which were donated by one lady and cover a period of 30-40 years. The museum does not have a permanent display of garments but offers an exciting program of focused temporary exhibitions and displays throughout the year. The Inside Out talks are the only way to truly experience what the archive has to offer. Led by Museum Curator Dennis Nothdruft, this workshop provides a fantastic opportunity to view the ins and outs of couture design. There are a limited number of places so everyone
On this Balenciaga coat lines of fine elastic are sewn to the inside of the velvet to create the design
Seams are left exposed and whipstitched by hand instead to prove the workmanship to the wearer
has opportunity to examine garments in detail. This means taking in the construction details, fabric choices and finishing touches. The 90-minute session covers Dior, Chanel and Balenciaga as well as dramatic pieces from Bellville Sassoon, Versace and several more designers that delight the eyes with their perfect pattern matching, exquisite details and luxurious fabric.
Chanel made a feature of heavy gold chains
Haute couture is used to describe the highest level of bespoke garments hand-sewn in Paris by a delegated team of incredibly experienced seamstresses to strict regulations. Interestingly enough it was a term that was originally associated with the fine work of Charles
Hand stitches and boning channels are visible inside this sarong gown
Editor Amy, with Strictly seamstress Teresa Hewlett, Love Sewing columnist Claire-Louise Hardie and friend of Love Sewing Susan Young at the exhibition
Worth who was an Englishman. Dennis has prepared a range of garments that showcase what haute couture really means; both from the top fashion houses and from incredibly talented seamstresses. For example there were 44 hand-worked hooks and eyes sewn onto the Bellville Sassoon embroidered yellow coat. And handwoven frog fasteners decorate the neckline. The fantastic colour didn’t appear to have faded at all and only the ribbon trim appeared a little worn. The seam allowances on Halle Berry's mesh dress from the 2002 Academy Awards were all left unfinished as any other treatment would have been too visible. The Elie Saab gown with a sheer bodice and a full skirt was constructed more like a swimsuit with crotch fasteners, sewn onto a skirt to ensure a smooth fit. Even the little black dresses featured staggering amounts of skill and design. The
An unfathomable amount of handstitches secure the pleats of this dress
Halle Berry in her dress at the Academy Awards
extravagant black Irish linen dress was designed by Sybil Connolly and featured her trademark pleated detailing, mixing a firm shift silhouette with delicate ruffles at the hem and neck. Inside, all the pleats were tacked securely and zippers at the wrists gave a snug fit. A Guy Laroche cocktail dress featured a gathered rose of fabric extending out of a cowl-back neckline in a feat of draping we don’t see these days. Thin padded rouleau tied in a bow at the empire line at the front are in a simple but effective position. Inside many of the garments seams are left exposed and whip-stitched by hand instead to prove the workmanship to the wearer. The yellow and black 50s dress is a prime example with the construction being visible inside as well as the support systems such as an under-bust stay and boning channels. What was interesting was how the garments were altered over time so that the owner could continue to wear them.
Find out more Couture Inside Out – 1950s Paris and London Friday 6 July 2pm-3.30pm £30 (£25 for students) and includes exhibition entry Visit www.ftmlondon.org to see more events, courses and exhibitions, and sign up to the mailing list for the latest news Learn quick and easy methods for draping on a mannequin with Teresa Hewlett, Strictly Come Dancing seamstress and fashion insider
The taffeta skirt was hand-sewn onto the swimsuit-like bodice
Couture garments generally have wider seam allowances so they can be let out or taken in and hems were often raised or lowered too as fashion, or age, dictated. Many of the hems have been let down to a more modest level and seams let out. Dennis spoke passionately about the collection and the life of each piece. His team work hard to protect the garments but don’t believe that they should be trapped away in glass cabinets or repaired. It’s a bold approach but helps keen fashion grounded in reality. Each Inside Couture ticket includes entry to the current exhibition – a fantastic way to maximise your trip to the museum. Having seen several of its exhibitions, I can confirm they are thought provoking. But I must stress that the Inside Couture workshop was beyond spectacular and I will remember it all my life. This coat required 44 handsewn hook and eye closures
D S N I AM H E BE E S TH
With Wendy Ward
Strategic sewing ideas
Be prepared for our changeable 'summer' weather with clever pattern and fabric choices that suit your life
re you a seasonal maker, letting the weather conditions influence your choice of project, or do you plan ahead? Are you a super-organised maker just about to dive into your Christmas sewing or still waiting for it to get hot enough to start making some T-shirts?! If I’m honest, I think I do a bit of everything. If I have a complicated garment I want to make I’ll plan it ahead of season; so I might start planning a winter coat in the spring or start toiling swimsuits in the depths of winter. However, it’s difficult not to react to the weather and think, “I’m
boiling, I know I’ll whip up a whole load of vest tops this weekend”. Another factor that can make it hard to plan your sewing is fabric shopping. Unless you have built up a huge stash to work through, it’s hard to sew ahead when fabric shops are full of seasonal cloth. It takes a huge amount of willpower to sustain the excitement of a winter coat when you’re confronted by gorgeous linen, chambray and floaty cool silk that make you think about summer dresses and airy tops every time you visit a fabric shop. Making super-summery garments when you live in an unpredictable climate like the UK can also make you worry you won’t get the maximum amount of wear for your efforts. If you’re clever though, you can choose garments that you can layer and wear during cooler times of the year. Sometimes just changing the fabric choices on your favourite pattern will do the trick. For example, instead of making your next Linden sweatshirt in a heavy brushed-back sweat, try it in a lightweight single jersey. Here are some more ideas for summerfriendly fabric substitutes:
Try a loose fit T-shirt style like the I AM Patterns Cassiopée dress, £15 www.backstitch.co.uk
• Make cardigan patterns in lightweight single jersey or even substitute a woven fabric such as silk or chambray if the style will accommodate it for a looser, cooler cover-up style garment instead of a cosy cardigan. • Have a go at your favourite jeans pattern in linen instead of denim
(on loose/wide-leg styles), or stretch cotton sateen (on skinny-jean styles). • Jumpsuits look great in silk satin for summer and would make a fabulous outfit for a summer wedding as an alternative to a more traditional dress. • Dungarees (unless they’re skinny) will also work well in linen. • If you have a loose-fitting winter coat or anorak pattern, give it a try in cotton canvas or linen for a lightweight summer version – leave out any lining and enclose the seams with bias binding for a neat inner finish.
armhole. You can finish a sleeveless armhole neatly and easily with bias binding used as facing. Let’s face it, summer clothes are generally quicker to make and often use less fabric. Summer fabric can also be so much more affordable than winter fabric, so summer sewing does lend itself to last-minute, impulse and those addictive quick-to-make projects. Here are my recommendations for key styles in a classic summer wardrobe along with pattern suggestions to whip up a whole wardrobe of summer classics:
Make the Jenny overalls by Closet Case Patterns in linen, £16 www. raystitch.co.uk
Along with fabric substituting, simple pattern changes can also make your favourite patterns more sunshine friendly: • Make your favourite trouser pattern as shorts or cropped trousers. You can do the same with dungarees. I love dungaree shorts in the summer – they're so cool and comfortable. • You can easily shorten sleeves on sweatshirt patterns to make loose T-shirt tops. • If the neck on your favourite patterns feels a bit too high or restrictive for summer have a go at reshaping them and drafting yourself a simple facing. • Add length to a T-shirt pattern to make a quick and cool T-shirt dress to wear on its own or over leggings. • Loose-fitting clothes are always cooler and more comfortable to wear in the heat, so if you have a dress pattern with a waist seam and fitted skirt, have a go at substituting a simple gathered skirt. Alternatively if you have a fitted shift dress, try the reverse! • To make a sleeveless style from a pattern with set-in sleeves, the armhole may need a bit of reshaping to make it fit without any gaping, try raising the underarm point at the top of the side seam, shorten the shoulder and redraw the curve of the
T-shirt – a nice basic T-shirt pattern is a must for summer, and you can make it in regular length to wear as a top or lengthen the pattern to wear it as a dress. Lengthen the sleeves to use the same pattern for cooler weather. Pattern suggestions: Sasha Second Piano’s Basic Instinct T-shirt, Marilla Walker’s Maya top and the Peak T-shirt from Beginner’s Guide to Sewing With Knitted Fabrics.
ABOUT WENDY WARD I design my own range of easy-to-follow modern sewing patterns called MIY Collection. I am a qualified teacher and also have a degree in fashion. I spent seven years working in the fashion industry before starting to teach dressmaking in 2011 from my own studio called MIY Workshop in Brighton. I have written two books about dressmaking and my third book A Beginner’s Guide to Sewing With Knitted Fabrics is out now! www.wendyward.co.uk www.miycollection.com www.miyworkshop.co.uk
Vest – a strappy camisole vest or sporty tank top will keep you cooler than a T-shirt and can make a useful base layer or gym wear or sleepwear. Pattern suggestions: Ogden camisole by True Bias, Winnats tank from Beginner’s Guide to Sewing With Knitted Fabrics and the Rumi tank by Christine Haynes. Cardigan – vital for layering and will see you through to winter too. Choose a lighter colour or an all-over print for summer versions. I’m currently making a summery version of my Kinder cardigan in a lovely cool lightweight silk noile. Pattern suggestions: Kinder cardigan from Beginner’s Guide to Sewing With Knitted Fabrics, Driftless cardigan by Grainline and the Oslo cardigan by Seamwork. Skirt – loose styles will keep you coolest, such as a simple gathered or a circle skirt. Pattern suggestions: there are eight basic skirt styles in my book A Beginner’s Guide to Making Skirts and the Veronika skirt by Megan Nielsen. Trousers – wide-leg loose trousers are the coolest style to wear. Pattern suggestions: Derwent wide-leg trousers from A Beginner’s Guide to Sewing With Knitted Fabrics, Flint Pants by Megan Nielsen, Mercury Collection trousers by Marilla Walker. Shirt – a shirt pattern can be really versatile for summer sewing, make one as a shirt to wear with skirts or trousers or to wear as a
This wrap skirt project is part of my first book, A Beginner's Guide to Making Skirts
light cover-up instead of a cardigan or jacket. A shirtdress can easily be dressed up or down and worn loose or belted for different looks. Pattern suggestions: Alder or Archer by Grainline, Isca by Marilla Walker and By Hand London’s Sarah shirt. For me, jumpsuits are wonderfully cool and comfortable to wear in warm weather, I absolutely love my Roberts Collection jumpsuit by Marilla Walker and really need to crack on make myself a shorts version this summer. I hope you have a fabulous summer of sewing and wearing your sunny makes!
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Dress up your desk or store your pins in style with this quick-make felt cactus trio! Project SAM STERKEN
MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 3 shades of green A4 felt sheets • green, yellow & red embroidery floss • 40x10cm base fabric • 3x5.5cm-diameter plant pots • assorted felt scraps • toy stuffing • templates provided on pattern sheet or downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
CUTTING: 6 round cactus pieces (Template A) 5 double-leaf cactus (Template B) 2 spiky cactus (Template C) 2 round cactus flower (Template D) 10 double-leaf cactus flower (Template E) 3 bases (Template F)
HOW TO MAKE: SPIKY CACTUS (LEFT) 1 Use blanket stitch to join the felt pieces, using small stitches small to avoid gaping when stuffed. 2 Using a chopstick, take small tufts of stuffing and gently push into the felt.
on the long straight edges. We used three strands of 8 Lay out embroidery floss. For a five petals more defined look, in a star ROUND you can use shape and CACTUS four or even five sew together (RIGHT) through the 4 Take two pieces centre. Add the of the round cactus and remaining petal one by one blanket-stitch on the long and then gently pull the edge. Repeat by sewing the thread to push the petals second piece to the third upwards. Attach to the top of and continue until you have the cactus with a few stitches. joined all pieces together. Fill as per the Spiky cactus. SEWING ON THE BASES 5 Stitch through the centre, 9 Using matching cotton, joining the top of the pieces, sew a running stitch around and attach the two flowers the edge of the cut-out base with a neat cross stitch. fabric. Fill with toy stuffing and pull gently in the running DOUBLE-LEAF CACTUS stitch to create a ball. Test (CENTRE) how this sits in the mini plant 6 Fold each piece in half so pot and fill more if needed. the long curved edges match Whip-stitch the bottom of and blanket-stitch together, each cactus to the base. Make leaving the short straight the stitches small so they bottom edge open. Fill as per can’t be seen, then pop a base the Spiky cactus. into each plant pot to finish. 7 Sew each leaf together 3 Follow the masterclass (right) to add tassels.
TASSELS 1 Take three strands of coloured thread and double, but don’t knot. Put the needle through the edge of the felt to create a spike. Pull through, leaving a 4cm thread hanging. Repeat, creating a 5cm loop. Snip the thread, leaving two open strands and one loop. 2 With a second colour, sew into the base of the strands. 3 Pull the loose threads tight and wrap the thread around the base five or six times. Sew into the base again and tie off neatly 4 Snip the loop open and trim.