VOL . XIV - HAPPY NEW YOU
Dare To Dream
E Editorâ€™s Note
# H a p p y N e w Yo u Itâ€™s the festive season and we feel a little more joyful as we say farewell to a year that the world will definitely never forget. A new year brings with it reflection on the past 12 months and anticipation for the next 12. This issue sets an optimistic tone for 2021, bringing a sense of hope, fun and solace, welcoming you into a world of beautiful, soulful design.
We have inspiration of good resolution for 2021 from the beauty who graces the cover, Nasya Marcella. Also, itâ€™s time to follow the rapid progress of digi-tech as we present a review of the big trends of technology coming in 2021.
The pandemic has, of course, been challenging, but it has also sharpened the imagination and vision of our creative community. Therefore we have summed up the impact of culture into fashion industry which you can read it on our Culture article.
Alluring Autumn A
s 2020 is coming to an end (yeah, we can relieve now), it is time to leave fast fashion and choose style that you will wear for a long time. Elegant always a timeless choice. Coat, Satsuma Pair it with magnificent jewellery as a style investment.
All jewellery by Mondial Dresses by Forever New
DARE TO DREAM From a shy girl to a confident woman, here is our lovely meeting with Nasya Marcella where she reveals all about her career, beauty secret and resolution for 2021. Photographer Zaky Akbar @udaeki Fashion Director Rut Caroline @carolinemeliala Makeup Ryan Ogilvy @ryanogilvy Hair Chikie Vers @chikievers
3. And since we are amazed by your beauty, can you share us your beauty secret? 1. You start your career as a - Sleep well model, and when did it happen when - Cleanse your face 2 times daily Don’t sleep with makeup on you take a turn into acting career? At first, memang tujuan awalnya bisa berakting di production house yang terkenal. Tapi karena dulu aku pemalu, akhirnya coba untuk sesuatu yang nggak perlu berbicara di depan orang banyak yaitu jadi model catwalk atau photo shoot saha. Tapi lama-lama aku terbiasa dengan shooting dan dapat tawaran shooting sinetron untuk pertama kalinya. Sejak itu sampai sekarang aku sudah mulai banyak mendalami akting.
- Use skincare according to your skin type - Use sunscreen everyday - Don’t smoke cigarettes
4. What is your style’ signature and who is your fashion role model? I think my style is a feminine. When i attend a formal event, i usually dress in smart casual. When i’m in the day off, i wear casual lil bit of sporty look. I don’t really have fashion role model. Maybe it’s my mom.
2. Well, with your busy schedules, 5. Year end is just around the how do you manage your fit body? corner, how do you conclude My routine to keep health is by sleeping for your 2020 by far? eight hours minimum, getting exercise minimal two times a week… I do pilates now, taking vitamins, consuming healthy foods…I am tryinng to avoid sugar and greasy foods and drinking water at least one litre per day.
2020 is a miracle for me. Banyak orang kena virus covid 19. Tapi Puji Tuhan, aku sekeluarga selalu sehat dan jauh dari penyakit. Banyak juga entertainment atau bidang pekerjaan lainya yang terhambat. Tapi Puji Tuhan juga di tahun 2020 aku bisa dapat project 1 film dan 2 web series. What a blessed year
6. What kind of lesson learned that you’ve got this year? Always take care of your health. Because the greatest wealth is health.
Do you have resolutions 2021? What are those?
-Berlatih tennis lebih giat lagi -Makan sayur lebih banyak -Tergabung dalam project film yang keren -Bisa lebih hemat lagi dalam berbelanja terutama belanja online
Dress, Kate Spade Shoes, Rodo
Dress, Kate Spade Shoes, Rodo
Shirt and skirt, Jrep Clothing
Dress, Kate Spade
Dress, By Gail
amed for the mythical Greek heroine, the Antigona Soft captures the Fall-Winter 2020 mood of discreet nonchalance. Crafted in supple calfskin with both classic and seasonal finishes and treatments, it reprises the original Antigonaâ€™s signature geometry, bold zips and pentagonal patch, now updated with a more informal, slouchy shape. Rooted in the Givenchy couture heritage of elegant ease and masculine/ feminine duality, the Antigona Soft is defined by generous proportions and a shape that lets it move from day to weekend with all the effortless versatility of a favorite leather jacket. On the runway, it was shown wrapped in large, contrasting silk scarves twisted and knotted around the handles, a visually impactful yet casual-looking way of accentuating individuality and graphic appeal. Though relaxed in spirit, the Antigona Soft is perfectly on-point in terms of style and practicality.
Itâ€™s sleek calfskin body features an ample central compartment with dual zip closures on medium and large styles, with an inner card pocket, vertical side straps with turnlock fastenings, twin top handles and a removeable shoulder strap for two modes of wear (hand-held or over-the-shoulder).
The Antigona Bag For Fall-Winter 2020/2021, Givenchy unveils seasonal colors and treatments for the Antigona Soft, the latest addition to the iconic Antigona family of handbags
Asmallversionlikewiseaccommodatesallthe An elevated version in two-tone, essentials, with a zipped compartment, hand-pleated leather offers a dressier a card pocket and an adjustable, re- option. movable strap for cross-body wear. Timeless finishes for the Antigona Soft include classic black and pearl gray. Seasonal statements feature a graphic houndstooth version that echoes ready-to-wear looks, and a version in extra supple calf leather embossed with a crocodile finish.
Regenerative Agriculture in Fashion Brands large and small—from Allbirds and Patagonia to Maggie Marilyn and Richard Malone— are partnering with regenerative cotton farms and peppering words like “soil health” and “carbon sequestration” into fashion week chats.
Even Gucci’s CEO Marco Bizzarri mentioned regenerative agriculture in his Copenhagen Fashion Summit keynote, citing it as a priority in Gucci’s mission to achieve net-zero carbon emissions. Maybe fashion is rallying around regenerative ag, as it’s come to be known, because it’s so different from the other sustainability trends and buzzwords we’ve encountered. It has virtually no downsides or compromises, and it isn’t just “less bad” than conventional farming. It’s categorically good, and it’s good for every living thing involved: the farmers, the plants, the animals, the soil, the micro-organisms in the soil, and, eventually, the consumer. As Eileen Fisher put it in a recent Vogue interview: “This is one of the places where we can make a positive impact. Rather than just pollute less or do less harm, we can actually revive the earth through the process of making clothes.”
In short, a farm becomes regenerative when its soil can “draw down” and absorb carbon, which regenerates the land and reduces the excess of carbon in the atmosphere. At present, the earth’s carbon balance is dangerously lopsided: The soil needs more of it (as carbon helps soil store water and feed plants), while the atmosphere has roughly 109 billion tons too much, which has led to global warming, rising sea levels, extreme weather events… the list goes on. Conventional agriculture methods like deep tilling, mono-cropping, and pesticides can lead to stripped, depleted soil, which can’t draw down carbon or support biodiversity. Regenerative farms, on the other hand, omit pesticides and strategically arrange plants so they can grow, flourish, and support each other: Cover crops are used to provide shade for smaller ones; animals may be brought in to graze and fertilize the soil; and “pollinator strips” are planted to attract bees and butterflies. It’s often said that regenerative farming mimics nature, with a vast array of species living as they normally would.
The fashion opportunity lies in sourcing materials from regenerative farms and, more broadly, investing in regenerative solutions as a form of carbon offsetting. It isn’t just cotton or plant-based materials that qualify, either; wool can be regenerative, as Allbirds has shown, and leather, too. But here’s the problem: Most designers couldn’t tell you where any of their materials came from, let alone who grew the fibers or how much he or she was paid. Fashion’s sprawling global supply chain has made “traceability” difficult, and it isn’t enough to rely on flimsy labels like “organic” and “all-natural.” That’s where Nishanth Chopra comes in: In 2015, he launched Oshadi Studio as an exercise in “seed-to-sew” fashion design.
It’s since grown into a fully regenerative supply chain that any brand can tap into. Chopra leaned into what he calls “ancient Indian farming techniques” after growing up around the opposite. His family had a large textile factory in Tamil Nadu, one of India’s biggest textile hubs, and Chopra saw the adverse effects of industrial manufacturing on the community and land: polluted rivers, smog, high infertility rates, cancer. “I realized that way of doing things was not for me,” he says. “I complained for quite a long time, but then I realized I needed to start somewhere. Maybe I’m not going to change the entire industry or even the entire town, but I can do my part.”
Photo: Ashish Chandra Courtesy of Oshadi Studio
Chopra visited farmers in remote villages and forests to learn their techniques, then partnered with an artisan community in Tamil Nadu to start working on his first collection. At every turn, he ran into a new problem to solve: waste, toxic dyes, even the costing practices around cotton and labor. “We looked at what’s wrong at every step, then figured out how we can solve that from our brand’s perspective,” he says. It became clear that the only way to guarantee sustainable and ethical practices at each phase was to keep everything under one “roof ”—so Chopra hired farmers to grow the cotton, then local weavers to turn it into textiles. There’s a natural dyeing collective, too, and a block printing studio. After it’s been harvested, cotton is gathered, sorted, and cleaned before it’s spun and woven into textiles.
In those early days, Chopra hired Richard Malone— then a recent graduate of Central Saint Martins—to design Oshadi’s first capsule collection of organic cotton dresses and separates tinted with botanical dyes from the farm, like palash flowers (which create a pale pink hue) and indigo. But Chopra knew he could make an even bigger impact by “lending” his process to more like-minded designers: “We can provide our supply chain to other brands, and that’s what starts to change the industry,” he says. “I think more people would adopt sustainability if it was easy to access. What we really want to do with this model is make it a solution that’s open to anyone.” Malone’s fall 2020 collection was produced in partnership with Oshadi Studio, for instance, earning him the International Woolmark Prize. Maggie Marilyn and Story MFG have collaborated with Oshadi on textiles too, and earlier this year, Christy Dawn forged a partnership with Oshadi to create a line of regenerative cotton dresses, launching in spring 2021
Partnership is an important word to Chopra. In addition to tackling fashion’s sustainability problem, he’s also passionate about correcting the industry’s narrative around Indian artisans. “When Raf Simons collaborates with an artist in Paris, no one says he’s ‘supporting a starving artist’ or ‘saving a heritage craft,’” Chopra says, only half-kidding. “But when you hear about designers working with artisans in India, it’s always about charity, or doing it to ‘support’ them… The story is never about how they do this absolutely incredible work. But Richard and Christy are supporting us as much as we’re supporting them. We’re working together—we’re collaborators, we’re partners. If everyone had that perspective, it could change things for the better,” he continues. “There is so much wisdom and heritage in India that I always felt was undervalued, and now it’s starting to be recognized.” Looks from Oshadi Studio’s in-house collection, made “from seed to stitch” using organic cotton, botanical dyes, and traditional weaving techniques.
Photo: Courtesy of Oshadi Studio
Photo: Courtesy of Oshadi Studio The same shift in perspective applies to Chopra’s traditional farming methods. Back when he was launching the brand, he was surprised to hear that Oshadi checked all the criteria for “regenerative farming” as outlined by Fibershed, a non-profit founded by Rebecca Burgess that develops regenerative textile systems. (Fibershed awarded Chopra a grant and later introduced him to Dawn.) “I didn’t even know it was called ‘regenerative ag’ at the time,” he says. “I just thought it was ancient Indian farming.”
That goes back to why we feel so hopeful about regenerative ag: It isn’t a complex, unproven new technology; it isn’t even “new” at all. It’s a solution for the future that’s rooted in the past, with centuries of good to show for it. Why we ever deviated from natural, regenerative practices in favor of industrialized and exploitive ones is another story—but at least we can pivot now. As Burgess said earlier this year, fashion can lead the way in “mainstreaming” regenerative ag so it’s something we come to expect in our clothes, food, and beyond. The hope is that in turn, we’ll also (finally) understand where those things come from—and how many people and resources were involved in the process. “It might take a long time for things to change, because they’ve been going wrong for so long,” Chopra adds. “But at least we can create something people can look up to, and something they can take into the future.”
Oshadi Studio’s regenerative cotton fields in Tamil Nadu, India.Photo: Ashish Chandra / Courtesy of Oshadi Studio
Coat, LOULOU The Label & Satsuma
In fact, when done correctly, it’s one of the quickest ways to achieve a clean and polished look with little to no effort. From well-tailored suiting to chic outerwear that can be layered over anything you own, there is a slew of winter-white outfit options that will make you rethink everything you knew about one of fashion’s most-dated rules. When it comes to getting dressed during the cold-weather months, it’s likely there is a handful of neutral tones that you rely on to get you through the dreary season unscathed. But in the event you’re looking to switch it up from traditional black, brown, and beige, consider adding pops of white into the mix. A starchwhite pair of over-the-knee boots like Nicholas Kirkwood’s Lexi boots allow you to experiment with the trend before committing fully. However, for those who prefer a bolder approach, shoe designer and founder of eponymous label Amina Muaddi’s white-onwhite, monochromatic look is inspiration enough. If you’re unsure of where to begin, continue scrolling for 11 no-fail winter-white outfits from the street style set to get you started on the right path— and the key pieces to shop from them, of course.
Wintery White Gone are the days when wearing white after Labor Day is considered an outfit faux pas.