5.1.19

Page 35

L4 • ST. LOUIS POST-DISPATCH

LET’S EAT

M 1 • WeDneSDAy • 05.01.2019

Homemade dressing, fresh in-season produce elevate salads SALAD • from L1

Better is homemade roasted chicken — there’s cheese and rich toppings no prep time, just oven such as toasted nuts, time. So, when I’m roasting smoked ham and hard- chicken for Sunday dinner, cooked eggs. I make an extra for weekAnother favorite salad night cooking. One small combines roast chicken chicken yields about 4 cups with pickles. A bit of smoky of shredded meat. chipotle in the dressing For super moist chicken, warms up everything. I poach boneless skinless The key to good chicken pieces in chicken broth. It salad is using top-notch takes less than 15 minutes chicken,ofcourse.Inapinch, to poach chicken this way I’ll use a rotisserie chicken and the texture is worth CHRIS WALKER, CHICAGO TRIBUNE (TNS) from the grocery store and the time. A bonus: Flavorpull the meat away from the ful poaching liquid to use in skin and bones. However, soups or stews later or sea- Yield: 6 servings, 4 as a main dish most rotisserie chickens tend son with salt and a pinch of 1 small kohlrabi bulb (about 5 ounces), peeled, cut into to have a mushy texture and curry powder for a liquid, For the dressing ½-inch pieces (or ½ cup diced radishes) dry meat. 1 peeled shallot low-calorie snack. 5 green onions, trimmed, thinly sliced (2/3 cup) 1 peeled garlic clove 2/3 cup diced dill pickles, pickled green beans or pickled 1/3 cup olive oil ¼ cup creme fraiche or mascarpone okra (from a jar) Homemade dressing. The single best way to improve 2 tablespoons aged sherry vinegar (or white balsamic ½ cup halved or sliced green or Castelvetrano olives your salads is to blend a few ingredients in a jar for a suvinegar) 4 cups diced or coarsely shredded roasted or poached perior-tasting, low-sugar, no-preservative topping. Dress1 teaspoon pureed chipotle in adobo chicken (boneless and skinless) ings can range from vinegar and oil to more elaborate 1 tablespoon dried basil 1 small head (7 ounces) romaine, quartered lengthwise, concoctions with cream, fresh herbs or interesting spices. ½ teaspoon salt then cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces (about 4 cups Homemade vinaigrettes and salad dressings keep well in ½ teaspoon granulated sugar loosely packed) the refrigerator — a week or so for cream-based, longer For the salad 2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh or dehydrated parsley, for simple vinaigrettes. Use them at room temperature for ¼ to 1/3 cup pecan halves chives or a combination maximum flavor and palatability. 2 to 4 tablespoons crumbled Cotija or Romano cheese 1 medium Honeycrisp apple, quartered, cored, cut into Freshness. Think freshness from crisp salad greens, ½-inch pieces (1 ½ cups) crunchy green onions and perfectly ripe tomatoes when in season. 1. Make the dressing. With the blender running, drop 1 peeled shallot and 1 peeled garlic clove into the machine to chop it. Crunch. Nuts and croutons, obviously, but other options Turn off blender and add olive oil and creme fraiche or mascarpone. Add sherry vinegar (or white balsamic vinegar) and include crisp apples, raw root vegetables such as diced pureed chipotle in adobo; blend smooth. Add dried basil and salt and sugar. Process to mix. Transfer to a container with a kohlrabi, shredded beets, carrot curls and paper-thin rad- lid; refrigerate covered up to several days. Use at room temperature. ish slices. 2. Put pecans into a small dry skillet. Set over medium heat. Cook and stir until toasted and fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Do not Richness. This could come from a delicious olive oil walk away or they may burn. Transfer to a cutting board. When cool, cut into small pieces. drizzle, shreds or cubes of cheese, avocado chunks or bits 3. Put apple, kohlrabi, green onions, pickles and olives into a large bowl; toss to mix. Add chicken and dressing. Toss to mix of cooked bacon. A tiny portion of cream, yogurt or sour again. Let stand, 10 minutes. cream added to a vinaigrette enriches a salad with mini4. Add romaine and herbs. Toss to mix. Arrange on serving plates. Top with pecans and sprinkle with cheese. Serve. mal calories. Per serving (based on 6): 419 calories; 32g fat; 9g saturated fat; 95mg cholesterol; 11g carbohydrates; 6g sugar; 24g Acid. Brighten any salad, any season, with delicious vinprotein; 911mg sodium; 3g fiber egar. I change it up a bit by keeping a stash of cider, malt, sherry, red and white wine vinegars and balsamic vinegars (affordable bottles of red and white as well as a more Yield: 4 servings expensive aged balsamic for judicious drizzling). Fresh lemon, lime and grapefruit juices and bottled yuzu can 1 large head or 2 small heads Belgian endive, ends 3 to 4 tablespoons classic all-purpose vinaigrette (see also form the base of a great vinaigrette. trimmed recipe) made with walnut oil and Meyer lemon zest, Salt. Yes, salt can make or break a salad. Most vegetables ½ small head red radicchio, thinly sliced divided benefit from a little salt to enhance their natural flavors. 2 cups torn small leaves of escarole or curly endive 1 Oro blanco grapefruit or pomelo Salt can also come in the form of shredded or grated aged 2 blood oranges 1 chunk (about 2 ounces) ricotta salata (or pecorino cheese, such as Romano or Parmesan. Romano) 1 Satsuma mandarin or 2 clementines, peeled, sectioned, Protein. Even a side salad offers more long-lasting satis¼ cup roasted and salted pistachio nuts each section cut into thirds faction with a bit of protein added. This can be as simple Freshly ground black pepper 1 large ripe avocado, halved, pitted, diced as a few nuts or shreds of cheese. Wedges of hard cookedegg and canned beans, along with their low cost, have the 1. Make the vinaigrette. benefit of adding unique texture too. With a bit of plan2. Peel the grapefruit with a knife as follows: Slice the ends off. Put the grapefruit on the cutting board, cut side down. Use ning, diced or shredded fully-cooked meat, poultry and a large knife to cut away all the rind and white pith, curving the knife with the curve of the fruit. Then use the knife to slice seafood make a salad a main-dish contender the grapefruit horizontally into ¼-inch thick slices. Do the same with the blood oranges. Surprise. One surprising ingredient can ward off salad 3. Arrange the grapefruit and blood orange slices in alternate colors in a ring on a large serving platter. Sprinkle with boredom no matter the season. In winter months, clemen- mandarin segment pieces and then the diced avocado. tine or grapefruit segments, sliced olives and diced pickled 4. Cut the endive in halve lengthwise, then cut crosswise into ½-inch-wide slices. Put into a large bowl with radicchio and vegetables prove welcome in just about any salad. Durescarole. Add 2 to 3 tablespoons of the vinaigrette and toss to mix. Drizzle remaining 1 or 2 tablespoons vinaigrette over the ing the growing season, I add slices of ripe tomatoes and citrus. peaches, asparagus tips and sliced stalks, fresh peas in or 5. Arrange the dressed lettuces in the center of the citrus. Use a vegetable peeler to shave the ricotta over the whole plate. out of the pod, ripe berries and shaved summer squash. Sprinkle with nuts and pepper. Serve immediately.

Roasted Chicken and Romaine Salad With Creamy Basil Chipotle Dressing

Tips for salad greatness

Citrus Salad With Endives and Ricotta Salata

How to poach a chicken Put 1 pound of boneless skinless chicken thighs and 2 cups chicken broth into a shallow pan. Heat over medium-low heat to a simmer. Reduce heat to low, cover loosely and let chicken cook until the meat feels almost firm when pressed, usually 10 to 14 minutes. Remove with tongs to a board to cool. Add 1 pound boneless skinless chicken breasts to the poaching liquid and add water if needed so the breasts are mostly immersed in liquid. Heat to a very gentle simmer; cover loosely and let poach until nearly firm, usually 8 to 12 minutes. Remove with tongs to the board and let cool. When cool, pull the chicken into large shreds (or dice with a knife). Refrigerate covered up to several days. Strain the poaching liquid and use it in soups or stews within a few days; or freeze and use later to poach more chicken.

Per serving: 329 calories; 23g fat; 5g saturated fat; 15mg cholesterol; 27g carbohydrates; 10g sugar; 9g protein; 367mg sodium; 8g fiber

Classic All-Purpose Vinaigrette Yield: Generous ½ cup ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons mild-tasting oil, such as safflower oil, or bold-flavored oil, such as walnut oil, hazelnut oil 3 tablespoons vinegar, such as Banyuls wine vinegar, red wine vinegar or white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon agave syrup or ¼ teaspoon sugar, optional ¼ teaspoon grated lemon rind, optional ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Note: Change the types of oil, vinegar and mustard for flavor variations. Use the agave syrup for a hint of sweetness. Put oils, vinegar, mustard and salt into a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Shake well. Add pepper and mix again. Refrigerate covered up to 2 weeks. Use at room temperature. Per tablespoon: 91 calories; 1g saturated fat; no cholesterol; no carbohydrates; no sugar; no protein; 161mg sodium; no fiber

A kosher marketing failure and a couple of fires NEMAN • from L1

Swiss Miss cocoa. It’s a huge and generally wellrespected corporation. But you have to figure that the families that originally owned Hebrew National would know enough not to promote anything in a blanket during Passover. Several hours after the post was made (and after a call from me asking for a comment that was not returned), the company offered an apology on its website. By the next day, the entire post was taken down. ••• Also last week, the

North City landmark Goody Goody Diner caught fire. The damage was extensive. No one was hurt, which of course is the most important thing. But the restaurant says it will be closed “until further notice.” The news hit the city like a knife wound — maybe not fatal, because the restaurant will reopen, but painful. And it comes just a couple of months after another popular breakfastand-lunch spot, Hilary’s Roadhouse Diner in Maryland Heights, was also damaged by a kitchen fire. In the restaurant world,

fires happen. There are open flames, high temperatures and grease plus the electrical wiring and other hazards that exist for any other business or residence. In addition, the buildings that housed both Goody Goody and Hilary’s were relatively old, which can make a small fire worse. It is true that insurance, presumably, will pay for the damages. But that is only part of the story. For an unknown number of months, the staffs will be without jobs — or will be scrambling to find them — and the owners will be without income.

That is a major financial assault on the people who own and work at the restaurants. But it is more than that. A restaurant is a family, particularly at diners and especially at longestablished diners. Some

employees at Hilary’s have worked at the location longer than the owner has owned it. Fires like these break up the family, and they will never be able to come together in quite the same way again.

That’s something to think about the next time you’re at a restaurant. They’re in a tenuous business. Maybe you could add a little extra to the tip. Daniel Neman • 314-340-8133 @dnemanfood on Twitter dneman@post-dispatch.com

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