SLOPED SHOULDER
If
your
client
has sloped shoulders, and the
jacket has been cut for normal shoulders, diagonal creases will appear,
on
front
and back,
at the
bottom of the armhole. These creases can most often be eliminated by increasing the amount of shoulder padding.
When padding cannot solve the entire problem, open the shoulder seam and re-pin it to eliminate the creases. Measure the amount of the pinned correction at the armhole edge of the shoulder.
On the pattern front and back apply that measurement from the neck edge of the shoulder. The lapel is also raised by the amount of the pinned correction. The center back neck is raised by that amount plus '/s" (3 mm).
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