A technical foundation menswear pattern cutting by tanya dove

Page 26

2. Trousers

Jeans

Construction

1–2

Raise the back seat line, raising the top of the trouser block (see diagram) This allows extra around the bottom for sitting down, without making the crutch any bigger. Smooth the centre back seam Smooth the side seam at seat line Reduce waistline by 1cm

Plan 1 2

3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

24

Draw a line for the waistband. 4cm down from WL, front and back leg. Move the small back dart to the side seam (measure at the waistband edge and remove this amount from the side seam, then do not use the dart in the leg. Draw in back yoke – 7cm at CB seam and 2cm at side seam Design back pocket, top edge is 2cm lower than yoke seam. Draw in front pocket position, 8cm down the side seam under the waistband. Top position is half way along the waistline. Draw in the inner front pocket (right side only) Part of the pocket is visible and part is hidden inside the pocket. Draw in front fly – 3.5cm wide and finishes 2cm above the SL. Curve at the bottom edge. Extend CF edge to draw the fly back, 3.5cm wide and the same length as the fly front. Extend front waistband the width of the fly back. Draw in belt loop positions – centre of front, on the front side panel, centre of back panel and CB seam. 7 loops in total.

3cm


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