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DIY OnA Budget ISSUE 02 April 2016

e d a M r Fo You

Budgetdesign4U FRESH new ideas Two Free Paper Cuts!!


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Photo Wall I'm Samantha and I'm a mum of two, Howie 3 and willow 1. We own our home and I'm currently trying to decorate it. And here is why I started my photo wall. When I was 21 my dad passed away, out of the blue, nobody knew it was coming, he was only 42. I have never lived with my dad and unfortunately for the year or two before he passed we weren’t very close, we drifted apart. I had some memories from when I was younger but nothing I could physically look at, which was something I needed. I tried and tried to get a photo of us but had no luck until quite recent I got a photo, which I treasure. It was then I realised photos are so important; I became rather

obsessed with taking photos and printing them. Making sure I and my children have lots to treasure and look at. One night whilst flicking through Pinterest I saw a photo wall paper, I instantly fell in love. I searched the internet for a company who did it; it was far too pricey for me, so I decided to do it myself. I basically printed out thousands of the billions of photos that I have taken on plain a4 paper, which I cut in half to save paper and get more for my money. I chose to do grey as I love grey photos. I have stuck them on with evo bond pva glue but I'm pretty sure normal pva glue would work but I haven't tried. The photo wall isn't finished yet

but I plan to cover it with evo bond pva and then gloss it to protect it. It's fun but I would recommend printing all the photos before you start, because I've stopped and started this project I have to keep scanning the wall to see if I'm doing double photos because I don't want two the same. I'm really happy that every day when I walk in to my kitchen my amazing family and even my dad is there for me to see. Even my children love to point to the photos and tell me who's who. Make me so happy. Written By Samantha Lori Thomas


Upcycled Me “Bring on the Yellow”

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Written By Kerry Miller “Well Spring is here for some and whilst days are still quite gloomy & the colour “Grey” is definitely here to stay I thought for those of you who may be thinking OMG! What do I do with the grey? …...Well, a little or large amount of a bold colour can so transform a space & add a vibrant lift to your existing décor “. “I 've chosen an Old Vintage Mirror & an Old Table End to upcycle as an example of how to make an impact with some bold colour whilst “On a Budget” still being key to this project so I decided to try out some testers and ended up with Homebase's Duracoat “Yellow Submarine” x three sample pots costing a total of £4.50, who needs to spend loads on highly priced paint when a little can go a long way and do the same job!”

“Well now I've chosen the pieces and the paint time to crack on... Firstly I'd advise keying off all the surfaces you wish to paint using a fine grain paper being careful not to damage the mirror my advise here use some masking tape around edges. Once that's done wash off any surface dust, dry and your good to go with some paint.”


“The first coat should be quite flat and look awful..dont panic ! Lol . Once the first coat is on this type of paint usually takes around 2hrs to dry out ,personally watching paint dry is not fun so a quick cuppa & find the hair dryer, A good tip here is to use a cool setting and don't keep it on one place to long were not paint stripping, unless of course it all goes horribly wrong ! Just keep the air moving this definitely speeds up the waiting time & who cares if it looks like your giving the furniture a blowdry !!”

Once your 1st coat has dried you,ll need to repeat the layers another 2-3 coats should give a good solid cover, top tip don't mess with the paint too much, work quickly don't try to recover wet paint it,ll only drag and look awful later.” “Once you've repeated this process on the second piece ...Voila! Two completely transformed pieces that will adorn a space with dramatic colour and warmth add in a few more pieces of the same bold colour and for a few quid on paint and lots of love you have yourself a unique transformation without the added expense of redecorating the walls and changing the floor.” Top Colour Tip: To increase warmth & light in a space “Yellow” works as a fantastic light lifter especially when painted around the recesses of windows and external doors with glass and patio doors.


DIY Diva/ Dude Paper Cutting With two free paper cuts worth £10 "Hello...its meeeee....are you ready to start cutting pretties from this lovely sheet..." (Sang to Adele's 'Hello' song) Excuse the singing...I know I'm terrible! As promised in the last magazine edition here are your free paper cut template's all ready for you to print and start swirling your scalpel or craft knife. It seemed fitting that the template had a DIY theme, seeing as that's the reason we are all here....! So let’s get started.... All you will need to get started is, A glass cutting mat, Your choice of scalpel and blades, (you can find a huge selection online or in your local Range, B n M, Wilkos etc) Your printed template A pot to put all the confetti pieces you will make when cutting your design And a cuppa and plate of biscuits and chocolate are optional but I find are a must have....

C Y w G

Your template will print in reverse with the template facing the wrong way. We will be cutting away the grey areas and leaving the white areas. The white will make up your final design. We will be cutting from the back of the design into the paper. Pick the design you would prefer to cut first and cut the paper in half to give you to separate designs.

Begin by cutting away the grey areas that are the smallest first, moving onto the larger of the small grey areas. You may find turning the paper as you cut helps you to make smoother lines. As you cut away each section, remove the waste piece's carefully to keep your cutting area free of little pieces. Take your time and start with small cuts, as your confidence grows you will find you can attempt to cut larger areas. When the smallest areas are all cut move onto the larger of the grey areas. Cut in sections you feel comfortable with, bits at a time. Move onto the next section and continue cutting away the grey areas

Find your free paper cuts in the pinned post at the top of the page by clicking here.

D i T Z I o b

When all your grey area's inside are cut away, you can use then have a little tidy up of any lines of corners where you may have little Bits remaining. You are now ready to cut the outside of the template. See photo on the left.

Cut around the tools in the design and the straight lines. You can use a metal ruler as a guide line when cutting the straight lines if you prefer, but I think a few wobbly lines and imperfection makes the cut design perfect and unique to you! Gently ease your template free from the surrounding paper and turn over to face you....

TAAAAAAADAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHH!!!! You did it! You are now the proud owner of your very own paper cut. Feel proud of yourself.

Don’t forget to come back next month to learn how to frame your masterpiece to throw lovely shadows, to impress your guests even further. Take care everyone and have fun swirling those scalpels Zed. xxx If you have enjoyed paper cutting and would like to have a go at other designs, please feel free to visit my online shop for lots more choice and the chance to instantly download your template of choice. You can find it by clicking this link www.totallytemplates.co.uk/store/vicnernie-papercuts/

Mind Craft Wall Art Hi ok here's my step by step guide on how to do a Mine craft Creeper face onto a wall. You will need. A spirit level, pencil, ruler, masking tape, and paint brushes approx 1" wide ones. And we used ready mixed paints that you buy from places like The Range or any craft shops, but you can also use any leftover paints around the house. I found it handy that I saved those tin foils that come off Yorkshire puddings and pies for dinner! I tipped the paint in them and it made it so much easier. I then searched online for the image I wanted of the creeper face and used that as a guide. So we were all ready to go. First of all my hubby used a spirit level to draw a square on the wall. Ours was approximately 4ft wide and 4 1/2 feet tall, of course you can go as big or as small as you like. . We made a grid of 8 sections and made the squares 6"x6" square. I started off by choosing one colour first and then deciding where I wanted that to go. I then used masking tape and taped around those squares. I did one coat first and let it dry completely then did a second coat but soon as

I painted it and before it dried I carefully pulled the masking tape off. Then I repeated this again using a different colour and so forth until it was finished! You can always touch in afterwards. Written By Lorraine Bulloch Aldred

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Spring Must Have's Yellow vase was an old purple vase from my mum which I sprayed with spray paint from bnm Yellow letters from hobby craft (can't remember price) sprayed with same spray paint Tall draw unit was old pine chest from mum some white emulsion as under coat and then black non drip on coat satin from bnm and the glitter wallpaper on front was left over wallpaper after I done the walls that was from Milton wallpaper shop in sitting which is


shutting down so was on sale for 15.99 a roll. Curtains I think was from very around £30 ish (will need to check) But can just search black and white chevron curtains. Rug was from very for £60 (I think lol) Side board was given from a friend was pine so used white non drip satin sanded and painted and added crystal knobs from eBay. Picture frames were £1 from bnm sprayed in yellow or black spray paint also from bnm Stag heads were from the Christmas decorations sale at asda was £20 each down to £10 each x

I decided to change my living room decor even though it had only been done a few months. I had plum & cream & I was never 100% happy with it, it always felt like it was missing something. After seeing the yellow/mustard & grey decor on diy on a budget I decided I would go for that colour scheme. My wallpaper was from The Range in black & silver, I already had the paint left over from the kitchen, and it’s a b&q brand called black pepper. For a cheap paint it has great coverage on a first coat. The day came to make a start so I painted the ceiling (worst job ever) but it looked much better, I used a cheap b&q white paint. Then I painted the woodwork in white eggshell, and then started on painting the walls, finishing with wallpapering which wasn't an easy paper to match. All wall art is from eBay, some I already had so sprayed/painted it to go with decor using white & grey I already had & bought a mustard tester pot & mustard Valspar spray. I already had the clock which was from b&q in black so I painted it mustard & wooden

ornament on floor I bought 2nd hand & sprayed it mustard. Frame's were from pound land, I sprayed one in mustard & left two in white & one in black then put wallpaper samples & fabric samples in them. Chevron cushion covers from eBay, grey textured cushions from b&q, grey throws had for about 3 years can't remember where from, yellow fleece throw from asda. Floor lamp bought from very last year with different shade, ochre (mustard colour) table lamp from very, shade looked too big for it so put it on floor lamp & bought smaller cheap grey shade from b&q. Black wire lamp from eBay, sprayed shade mustard. Silver frame from the range. Chevron coasters from house of Fraser online in sale. All done on a budget thanks to this group & everyone's great ideas...xx Written By Christine Hunt.

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Treasure The Vintage, Learn how to Decoupage Step by step guide to transforming my table 1 I always use sugar soap to remove dirt and grime and lightly sand 2 I applied 2 coats of Annie Sloan old white 3 Using a paint scraper I drag through the paint when damp to get desired distress look .Leave to dry and any extra can just be added. 4 Then lightly sand and begin decoupage .I always tear a napkin as close to the design as possible as it gives a better finish .Apply a medium (pva).Minimum as poss. as it prevents creasing .Using Clingfilm gently brush any creases. I allow to dry then add a further 2 coats of glue to image. 5 To finish I always sand over the dry image just to age and blend in. 6 For the finishing piece I used matt varnish for protection and durability. Written By Samantha Adamson

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Cute Padded 3d Love Hearts Hi all, this moth I'm showing you how to do these cute padded 3d love hearts they are pretty basic and it’s all done using the single crochet stitch which will be abbreviated to SC. Items needed are: 4mm Crochet hook, do wool in any colour, scissors, a yarn needle and some padding or cotton wool. You start by chaining 3 then slip stitch into chain one to form a loop then chain 1. Round 1. SC 9 in to the centre of the loop, we will be working in continual rounds with no slip stitch to join. Round 2. Now e will be doing 2 SC in each of the 9 stitches to give us a stitch count of 18 it should look something like this Round 3 Single crochet in each stitch for 18 stitches. Round 4. 1 SC in every stitch for a count of 18 then skip the next stitch then slip stitch in to the next stitch to even it off, you will see it's starting to curve which is what we want, now snip the yarn and make a 2nd one but on round 4 instead of a stitch count of 18 stop at 13 as we will be joining the 2 together there, at the moment they may look like a pair of nipples especially if you have used pink like me but they won't for long hahaha.

Joining the circles. Put your hook in the next stitch, then count back 5 on your other circle and insert your hook into that stitch like this, when they are both lined up SC the both together Round 5. Now work 1 SC in each stitch all the way around until to reach back to the beginning Round 6. We are working in continual round and there will be decreases on each end so we start to get the narrow point, I don't count stitches to decrease on this I squash the heart like this and do the SC decreases at each end.

Round 7 Work 1 SC around and you will get to your first SC decrease so put one there then work around to then opposite end to put a SC decrease there to. Round 8. Repeat round 7 and you will see it's getting its shape and the hole is getting smaller

Round 9 Repeat round 7 & 8 Round 10 We have 2 more round to go. Once finished this round the way you have done the previous rounds we should stuff the heart.

Round 11 We will be working 1 SC in each with a decrease at each end as we have been doing Round 12 We will be doing 1 SC decrease in every stitch around until closed

Cut a tail about 8-10 inches long. Get a yarn needle and thread the tail into it and push needle into the point of the heart until it comes out between the two peaks then decide how big you want your loop, then you’re finished, I love these and you can experiment with different size hooks and different

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Funkee Canvas My name is Rachael savage, I started out as an artist about 8 years ago when my first child was born, being a single mum I couldn't afford to decorate my home with nice wall paper etc so I started painting onto the walls, I draw on the designs straight onto the wall with a pencil and usually use acrylic to paint but if I have odd bits of emulsion left over I will use

that also tester pots occasionally. I sometimes incorporate wallpaper into the paintings; I once painted a tree in my living room and used wall paper samples to create 3d leaves. Over the years I've painted all sorts into walks in my home and the homes of others, flower designs usually work well for beginners as they are simple

with simple lines. I hope my photos inspire some of you to pick up a paint brush and create your own wall art. Written By Funkee Canvas

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Wood Burning The wood I used was just a piece of broken chopping board so slightly uneven but since I was only practicing I went ahead. The picture of the bird was an illustration of a wood burned bird which I drew directly into the wood. I didn't use much detail as the burning tool would be doing the shading of light and dark. Starting with the beak I began to burn the darkest bits and the outlines of the wings then body. This was done using the finest pointed tip in my set applying medium pressure to the wing outline and firm pressure to any really dark areas. The body of the bird was then completed in sections using short strokes. I built up the darker areas e.g. under the wings

by layering the strokes until I had the effect I needed. Once this was done it was just a matter of making sure the shape of the wing was visible and’re burning the long feather lines on the tail so they stood out. I used a burner that heats to one temperature and am sure a variable temp tool would be much better but on the whole it worked well. For me it was all about the pressure applied and having control of the tool by using two hands. Written By Lesley Allsopp

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Reuse, Recycle and Repurpose I hope you enjoyed the first issue of DIY on a Budget, The last few weeks have flown by, in my sewing lessons we have been working on children's dresses. As part of the course we needed to design and paint the dress. I decided on unicorns as they are magical and I'm sure all little girls must love them. The dress will be finished after next week’s lesson. I will post a picture in next month’s edition. Fabric can be expensive to buy, so I've been looking at ways to reuse, recycle, and repurpose what I have in my

home. I’ve been sorting through mine and my family's clothes which are too small or we just don't wear. From the clothes I've collected I'm going to turn them into something new. (Well newish). I turned a couple of dresses into skirts to practice, once I felt confidant I tackled a harder project. I got brave and turned jeans and a maxi dress into a long skirt it was very stressful!!! For anyone with experience I'm sure it would have been very simple. I haven't got an over locker machine, I'm convinced the

skirt would have been so much quicker and easier to make with one, as the sheer fabric and lining was all originally over locker to stop the fraying. I hemmed all the fabric then used a zigzag stitch on top to make double sure it wouldn't fray. Here is what I done step by step First I measured my daughter, so I knew how long the skirt needed to be, I measured from her waist down to her ankles, it was 30 inches in total.

1. I folded the jeans in half and pinned the waist band, then I cut just under the crotch area 2. Un-pin the waist band 3. Pin the jeans again just under the pockets and straightened the cut 4. This is now the waist band and top section of the skirt 5. I measured the length I needed, the denim section was 7 inches, so I needed 23 inches for the skirt, I added on another 1 and 1/2 inches to allow for the seam. I then cut the dress. 6. The lining of the dress after I zigzag stitched the hem. 7. Then using a straight stitch I stitched the lining onto the denim waist band. On the original dress the lining was shorter than the fabric. I measured and cut the lining so it was roughly knee length under the skirt. Lastly I used a straight stitch and sewed on the top layer of

the skirt. As you can see in picture 7 my lining isn’t straight, this material was lining the original dress, and it is a Lycra stretch type fabric which is no good to sew on with a normal sewing machine, as it stretches and the cotton breaks. I could never have achieved a straight finish without using an over locker, and as it was the lining I thought it don't really matter that it's slightly wonky does it? In all honesty I'm not sure I like the design of the skirt. I like the fabric and I love the length and the floaty look of the skirt. I think maybe I would have preferred to sew the 2 seams together and have a neat finish. Jamiee is very happy and loves her skirt. The overall cost to make this skirt was £1.55, as I needed to buy some blue thread. I'm actually slightly concerned I may turn into a hoarder, I keep literally

looking at everything within my home and visualising what it could be. I don't want to throw anything away in case I might need it!!!! Problem is I’ve only got a 2 bedroom house and not much room for storage. Laura Ashley Home had a sale on, iv ordered some beautiful printed fabric, and it was £10 per meter instead of £20. I'm so excited for it to arrive. I’ve been looking at patterns already for this fabric. I’ve decided to make a dress to fit a toddler. I hope you've enjoyed this month’s issue, if there's anything you would like to see or any ideas you have please contact me. Lulu Blu Next month’s issue Finished unicorn dress. Toddlers dress made from Laura Ashley butterfly fabric. Written By Nicky Hopkins

Changing a set of taps. In principle, the methods for changing basin, sink or bath taps are the same. It should be noted however, that there are an infinite number of types and designs of taps available. For the purpose of this guide I shall use basin taps on a standard two-hole basin as a reference, as these are what I consider to be the most straightforward due to relatively easy access compared to sink or bath taps. As with every aspect of construction/D.I.Y., there are several ways to carry out the task successfully, however this description is written with the novice or beginner in mind, so the method, tools and materials will reflect that. Tools and materials required: 1. New taps. When selecting your new taps, ensure that they are suitable, they should be labelled as “basin taps�. 2. A pair of half inch to 15mm flexible pushfit tap connectors. 3. One length of 15mm copper pipe. 4. Two 15mm isolation valves. 5. Sandpaper. 6. An adjustable spanner. 7. Water pump pliers. 8. A 15mm pipe slice. 9. A universal tap spanner. 10. Slotted screwdriver. STEP 1. The first, and most important task is to ascertain where to isolate the water supply from. Open up both the hot and cold basin

taps, this way you will know straight away whether or not you have isolated the supply. Check underneath the basin to see if the pipes leading up to the taps are already fitted with isolation valves like these:

If they are, it is simply a case of using your slotted screwdriver to turn the centre screw to the horizontal position, as shown. The water supply will now be isolated, and you can safely continue work. If there are no isolation valves present, you will need to turn off the water supply to your entire home. This is achieved by first locating the stop cock:

If they are, it is simply a case of using your slotted screwdriver to turn the centre screw to the horizontal position, as shown. The water supply will now be isolated, and you can safely continue work. If there are no isolation valves present, you will need to turn off the water supply to your entire home. This is achieved by first locating the stop cock:

Most stop cocks are located under the kitchen sink, however in older houses they can be in a variety of places; search by your front door, in metre cupboards, in cellars, even in old outside toilet buildings. Turn the stop cock spindle clockwise until tight (do not over tighten). This will isolate the cold water supply to the entire property, and may also (depending on what type of installation is present) isolate the hot water supply. If the hot water does not stop running, this is most likely because your home has a hot water storage cylinder:

Hot water cylinders are normally found in an airing cupboard. When changing taps where there is stored hot water, it is vital that you turn off the hot water and allow it to cool before continuing work. Once you have done this, locate the gate valve which feeds the hot water. cylinder: As with the stop cock, turn the spindle clock wise until tight, this will slow down (but not completely shut off) the hot water. STEP 2. Now that both water supplies are isolated, open up the taps on either the bath or downstairs sink, this will relieve most of the remaining water pressure, although there will still be a small amount of water in the pipes and taps when you remove them. STEP 3. You are now ready to remove the old taps from the basin. Using your tap spanner, latch onto the fitting that joins the pipe to the tail of the pipe (this is normally brass, but may be chrome or plastic) and turn it anti-clockwise. You may need to hold the tap in place to prevent it turning whilst undoing the tap connector. It is worth noting that the current taps may have been on for literally decades and may be extremely tight. In these instances, spraying WD40 on the threads of the taps may help. Remember, there will still be some water in the pipes and taps, especially where you have used a gate valves to isolate the hot water, so DO NOT PANIC, but keep an old towel around the bottom of the basin pipes to keep mess to a minimum.

STEP 5. Once the taps are off, if there were no isolation valves present, fit the new ones onto the tail pipes where you have cut off and cleaned them. First slide the nut over the pipe, followed by the copper or brass olive and then finally the fitting itself, ensuring that the engraved arrow is pointing up. Using your water pump pliers, hold the valve in place with the slotted screw facing towards you, and tighten the nut onto the fitting using you adjustable spanner, this will compress the brass or copper olive between the nut and fitting, ensuring a water tight seal. At this point, you may turn the stop cock and gate valves back on, this will enable you to check that the isolation valves are water tight, and also to take a break and put the kettle on. STEP 6. Next, unpack the new taps and remove the back nuts from the tails. There should be rubber washers already on the underside of the taps. Slide the threaded tail of one tap through one of the basin holes, ensuring that the rubber washer stays in place, then, whilst holding the tap in place, use your other hand to hand tighten the back nut onto the threaded tail on the underside

of the basin. When you can’t tighten it with your hand anymore, use your tap spanner to tighten it fully, ensuring that the tap is facing the right way but DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. As soon as the nut goes tight, stop turning. Repeat this process for the other tap. STEP 7. Now unpack the pair of flexible connectors. Ensure that the black rubber washers are inside the chrome connection heads and simply hand tighten them onto the tap tails, and then slightly them using your tap spanner. STEP 8. The next step is to complete the connection from the isolation valves to the push fit end of the flexible tap connectors. Simply measure the distance between the top of the isolators and the bottom of the flexible connectors, and, using your pipe slice, cut two lengths of new copper pipe, adding on about three inches. Slide the new copper tails into the isolation valves and tighten them with your spanner and water pump pliers as before. Finally, push the push fit connectors over the top of the new copper tails until they stop. STEP 9.

At this point, turn off the new taps and any other taps in the your home that you have opened up and use your slotted screwdriver to move open up the isolation valves to the vertical (open) position. Your new taps should now be functioning, if you notice any minor leaks, simply turn off the isolators, dry the joints with some tissue, and use your tools to ensure that all nuts are tight. Side notes: As mentioned at the beginning of this guide, these instructions are tailored for the novice and therefore not all guides will be the same. For example, fitting isolation valves and flexible connectors are not a NECESSITY, but they make the process far easier for beginners. Also, in instances where you have had to isolate the hot water from a gate valve, the hot water will not have completely shut off, therefore you should keep the other taps in your home running throughout the entire process so as to keep the pressure as low as possible. It would also be beneficial to fit the isolation valve to the hot pipe as soon as you have cut it off. Written By James Hopkins

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Dining Table Makeover I've had this ugly but perfectly solid table and chairs set for years. I hated it but couldn't afford to replace it. One day after living in the magnolia sea of a new build house I had enough, my craving for colour was too strong to ignore but I wasn't allowed to paint the walls yet. I grabbed my sander and set myself against the table. I did the legs first as it means I can turn the table upside down without damaging the top. After sanding all traces of varnish from the table I wiped it down with a damp cloth to remove dust. Using my trusty soft no bristle loss Harris brush I gave it 3 coats of paint, I used B&Q Colours Clear Ocean for the top and B&Q Funky Colours

Dazzler for the legs. After leaving the paint to properly dry and harden I then gave it 3 coats of Wilkinson's clear water based varnish. Then it was time for the chairs, I unscrewed the seats and put them to one side. I used the electric sander to remove as much varnish as I could then do the rest by hand, you can imagine that took me a while. Again I wiped down the dust and applied 3 coats of paint and varnish; I did the two carver chairs in Clear Ocean and the other 4 in Dazzler. I left these 24 hours for the varnish to harden before replacing the seats. While I was waiting I removed the old fabric from the seats and reupholstered using

strong wipe able oil cloth. I stretched the fabric tight over the seat and stapled in place with a staple gun. All that was left to do now was to screw the seats back into place, put the chairs around the table and take some photographs. Over a year later it still looks like the day I finished it despite having 3 kids and cats and giving it some very heavy use. Written By Raven Carlton

Get Garden Ready

With 2 small children, 3 dogs and chickens, we needed a low maintenance garden fit for purpose, but on a budget. Before we started the garden resembled a mud slide in places and was unsafe for the children. The overhaul started with us fencing off an area for the dogs to do their business (Fence panels B&Q £13 each). We then sought out a gardener from our local face book pages to fit artificial grass. The major companies quoted around £2000 for the area we needed to cover, the gentleman from face book quoted £960 and

did an amazing job and guaranteed us for 8 years. The next step was a play area for the children, using bark (Large chip bark B&Q 3 for £20 when bought during summer, Basic weed liner Homebargins £3). We used small wooden borders to stop the bark getting all over the grass (Wooden borders EBay 3 for £10). We then moved on to decoration and pretty bits. We made tyre planters for free, all local garages have to pay to have their old tyres destroyed so most will just give you what you need just pop in and

ask. We gave the main fences a fresh coat of paint (Ronseal paint Homebargins £5) the tub of paint is huge and will do another coat later in the year. Then all of the inner fences, borders and tyres are painted in various bright colours (B&Q outdoor fence paint £7.36 per pot). We now have a garden that is great all year round that is safe for our children to play in, with a separate area for the dogs. Written By Christine Mckinlay

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A garden planter Hello and welcome back! I hope you spent this time wisely and dragged a few tools together? Excellent! Garden time! It’s sunny and the garden needs a bit of TLC but where to start? Broken Planters need replacing so well have at them. They were made from a mixture of pallets and soft wood, quite thin; they lasted a few years but have now collapsed which leads us nicely into material choice. Pressure Treated Softwood Timber is what you’re going to be using. It’s fairly cheap or free and has had an application which is going to help preserve the wood against rot. You can of course

use any other timber and treat it yourself using a variety of products available from B&Q, homebase etc. The timber I’m using today is reclaimed fencing and staging from a garden I cleared out last year. Its pressure treated softwood and not too old or damaged. If I’ve got an old bit of preservative or some old paint on a shelf ill slap a coat on as well. Tools I used were a handsaw, pencil, tape measure, set square, jigsaw, cordless drill, sandpaper. The Jigsaw and Cordless drill are optional but make life a lot easier. I used screws instead of nails mainly because I’ve got a lot of them loose and lying around

needing using up. You can use nails if you are dismantling pallets, use the twist nails or the ones with rings down the shaft, they’re called annular ring. First I decided on my measurements, mine come in at 1.1m long by 45cm wide and 30cm high which is roughly the size of my existing Planters. Always allow a few centimetres extra for inconsistencies of the wood. It’s also a good idea to buy more timber than you need in case of errors and I still make them. Any leftovers can be either hoarded (bad) or made into more crafts (good).

Timber used • (2x4) 50x100 - 3m • (6x1) 150 x 25 – 10m I’ve overestimated the 6x1 but there’s nothing worse than making a mistake and then having to go out to buy more or not being able to because it’s gone 4 on a Sunday! Make the base first, cut the 2x4 into two lengths 1.05m long. Cut 7 lengths of 6x1 to 40cm and then lay them over the 2x4. Screw them down onto the 2x4 using a 40mm screw. You will now have the bottom of your planter together. Basically a slat frame with the 2x4 on their edge as the base. For the sides cut four lengths of 6x1 to 1.05m and also cut 4 pieces of 2x4 into 26cm lengths. Lay two pieces of 2x4 down parallel then screw the first piece of 6x1 to them at each end. Screw the second piece down; because the 2x4 is shorter the 6x1 will overhang which will help it sit on the base. Once you’ve made one

then crack on with the other. With the base on a bench or worktop put one side onto it and then screw it to the base, at the bottom, straight through into the 2x4 runner, about 3 screws should do it. Spin it round and do the other side as well and you’re nearly done. At this point you’ve made a U shaped channel and all that’s left is to attach the ends to close it off. Two ways you can do this, measure the ends, cut the wood to size and then screw the two pieces on starting from the top down. The second way is to screw the pieces straight one and then just run your jigsaw down the edge, it’s a lot quicker but you can damage the wood with the jigsaw. For the best finish go for option 1, to be quick go for option2. BadaBoom you’re done on the construction side of it! Get out the sandpaper and get rid of those splinters, maybe crack open a pot of paint and add

some colour? Congratulations you made a planter that’s strong and robust and will bring you some gardening fun. I did film this and you’ll be able to find it on my YouTube channel or on the day on a budget channel once it’s been uploaded. Hope I explained it easily enough and the pictures are of help. https://www.youtube.com/ user/thepoultrypeople Make Something! Bongo x

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Diy on a budget issue two  

So the first issue has been out for over a month, we have had more than 20k views, I am not sure if that is good for a first magazine, I hav...

Diy on a budget issue two  

So the first issue has been out for over a month, we have had more than 20k views, I am not sure if that is good for a first magazine, I hav...